FA  MOTU: 

OR, 

REEF-ROYIMS  II  THE  SOUTH  SEAS. 

tfte  of 


HAWAIIAN,  GEORGIAN  AND  SOCIETY  ISLANDS; 

WITH   MAPS, 

TWELVE    ORIGINAL    ILLUSTRATIONS, 

AND 

31  n    !2l  p  p  en  ft  i  * 

RELATING    TO    THE    RESOURCES,    SOCIAL    AND    POLITICAL    CONDITION    OF 
POLYNESIA,    AND    SUBJECTS    OF    INTEREST    IN    THE    PACIFIC    OCEAN. 

BY  EDWARD   T.   PERKINS. 

NEW-YORK: 

PUDNEY   &    RUSSELL,    PUBLISHERS, 

No.  79  JOHN-STKEET. 

1854. 


ENTERED,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1854,  by 
PUDNEY   &. RUSSELL, 

in  the  Ckrk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Southern 
District  of  New-York. 


Pur>x*y  &  RUSSSLL,  PRINTERS,  79  JOHN-STREET. 


JARVIS   M.    ANDREWS,    M.   D.. 

OF    NEW-  YORK, 

&s  a  pefcge  of  JFrieu&sl)ip 

THIS    VOLUME    IS   INSCRIBED, 


THE  AUTHOR. 


PREFACE. 


NEARLY  six  years  have  elapsed  since  the  writer  of  these 
sketches  was  numbered  among  the  crew  of  an  American  whaler, 
and  but  little  more  than  six  months  since  he  was  passenger  on 
board  an  English  brig,  voyaging  in  the  South  Pacific.  Through 
sheer  necessity  recourse  was  had  to  writing,  to  beguile  the 
monotony  of  an  existence  between  sky  and  ocean,  and  the  de- 
lineation of  scenes  and  scenery  has  been  attempted  in  the 
unpoetic  confines  of  a  state-room.  The  subject  selected,  a  mo- 
mentary consideration  was  involved  as  to  the  manner  of 
treating  it.  A  geographic,  historic,  and  descriptive  account  of 
the  various  localities  visited  at  first  suggested  itself,  but  the 
absence  of  either  library  or  work  of  reference  precluded  its 
adoption,  and  at  the  hazard  of  the  imputation  of  egotism,  a 
narrative  of  personal  adventures  was  concluded  upon. 

Though  fugitive  selections  may  awaken  a  momentary  inter- 
est, these  sketches  profess  to  impart  nothing  new,  save  the  re- 
cital of  recent  occurrences,  which  may  possibly  be  deemed  of 
political  worth ;  the  adventures  are  merely  the  experiences  of  a 
thousand  others  in  this  ocean,  who,  instead  of  publishing,  retain 
them  for  an  inexhaustible  fund  of  future  reminiscence.  As  an 
early  schoolmate,  Ik  Marvel,  has  expressed  it,  "  mine  have  been 


iv  Preface. 

tossed  from  me  in  the  shape  of  a  book;"  but  in  the  endeavor  to 
avoid  prolixity,  it  is  feared  that  points  of  incident  and  descrip- 
tion which  so  materially  enhance  the  interest  of  a  cursory 
narrative,  have  been  too  hastily  dealt  with. 

Unlike  the  Old  World,  Polynesia  boasts  of  no  monuments 
of  antiquity  :  the  ruins  of  Heidu  and  Marde  are  but  the  relics 
of  a  few  generations  that  have  passed  away — beyond  that 
resting-point  we  look  into  obscurity.  Though  we  discover  no 
hieroglyphics  of  mystic  import  to  conjure  up  gloomy  reveries, 
we  are  ever  opening  a  new  page  in  the  Book  of  Nature,  fresh 
and  glowing  with  the  intelligible  symbols  of  beauty  and  sub- 
limity. We  are  wont  to  associate  with  these  miniature  gardens 
the  reveries  of  romance — the  brightest  conceptions  of  poetic 
imagery  ;  but  reflection  will  impress  us  with  realities  of  deeper 
interest,  and  the  ideal  will  be  forgotten  as  we  link  the  present 
to  the  shadowy  future.  For  a  moment,  we  revert  to  the  period 
when  islands  rose  from  liquid  depths,  put  forth  their  fifes,  and 
hill  and  valley  bloomed  amid  varied  phenomena,  unseen  by 
other  than  the  eye  of  their  Creator.  Again,  we  view  them  as 
in  majesty  and  power  they  stand  forth  Nature's  giant  sarco- 
phagi of  a  slumbering  element — emeralds  upon  a  field  of  blue, 
the  home  of  millions  basking  in  perennial  sunshine,  but  covered 
with  intellectual  darkness.  Centuries  roll  round ;  science  and 
enterprise  hand  in  hand  reveal  but  the  relic  of  a  once  numerous 
race,  for  "the strong  men  have  bowed  themselves,"  and  though 
religion  has  bestowed  its  precious  boon,  and  benevolence  and 
philanthropy  have  gratuitously  scattered  their  gifts,  they  have 
failed  to  rescue  a  people  hastening  to  oblivion. 

At  no  period  of  oar  national  existence  have  American  in- 
terests been  so  prominently  manifest  in  the  great  Western 


Preface.  V 

Ocean.  Laws,  literature,  and  commerce  are  results  of  an  en- 
terprise that  has  established  States  and  successfully  combated  a 
national  antipathy.  The  recent  opening  of  Japanese  ports  is  an 
additional  evidence  of  our  characteristic  policy;  without  a 
cannon-shot  to  shatter  the  barrier  of  hereditary  prejudice,  a 
noble  conquest  has  been  peacefully  achieved.  Invidious  com- 
parisons are  not  %ought — they  are  unnecessary ;  a  candid 
observer  who  surveys  the  broad  track  of  American  enterprise 
in  this  ocean,  will  seek  in  vain  for  beacons  of  selfish  cupidity  or 
ambition.  It  will  be  discovered  that  our  victories,  whether 
spiritual  or  political,  have  been  marked  by  intellectual  growth 
and  commercial  prosperity ;  to  kingdoms  and  tribes  we  have 
bequeathed  indelible  impressions  of  our  national  worth  and 
disinterested  philanthropy. 

The  present  subject  embraces  but  a  small  proportion  of  the 
island  nebulas  Oceanicse,  though  including  the  two  most  prom- 
inent groups  of  the  Polynesian  Archipelago.  But  little  more 
than  ten  years  ago,  both  were  native  principalities  :  to  one  has 
been  accorded  the  fellowship  of  nations ;  the  other,  the  brightest 
gem  of  the  Southern  Ocean,  after  a  protracted  struggle  for  ex- 
istence, has  bowed  to  a  conqueror,  and  its  hills  and  valleys  are 
bristling  with  European  cannon.  The  commerce  of  kingdoms 
and  colonies  combined  in  this  ocean  is  trifling  in  comparison 
with  our  own,  yet  the  powers  of  the  Old  World  have  greedily 
coveted  and  seized  upon  independent  soil, — independent  by 
every  principle  of  justice  and  equity,  as  if  national  greatness 
were  to  be  promoted  by  hostile  aggression,  sanctioned  by 
neither  moral  requirement  nor  commercial  interests.  The  Eng- 
lish and  French  in  the  South  Pacific,  and  the  Dutch  in  the 
Indian  Archipelago,,  have  appropriated  most  of  the  available 


vi  Preface. 

lands  or  prominent  groups  ;  and  at  the  present  rate  of  terri- 
torial absorption,  an  observer  who  surveys  this  broad  field  at 
the  expiration  of  ten  years,  will  discover  but  few  evidences  of 
original  possession  or  primitive  freedom. 

The  incidents  narrated  are  comprised  by  the  years  '48  and  '53. 
The  words  "NA  MOTU"  signify  in  the  Hav^iian  and  Tahitian 
dialects  "  The  Islands"  For  various  reasons,  the  present  subject 
has  been  confined  to  those  two  groups  alone,  namely,  the 
Hawaiian  or  Sandwich,  Georgian  and  Society  Islands.  As  a 
prefatory  link,  it  has  been  ventured  to  introduce  u  The  Whale 
Ship,"  but  in  doing  so,  the  hackneyed  routine  of  ship-duty  has 
been  studiously  avoided,  and  a  combination  of  nautical  inci- 
dents, grave  and  humorous,  has  been  substituted,  to  relieve 
the  otherwise  sombre  shadows  of  the  forecastle.  It  remains 
but  to  be  said,  that  if  in  idle  moments  a  persual  of  these 
sketches  affords  a  moiety  of  the  gratification  experienced  in 
writing  them,  their  object  will  have  been  attained ;  for  to 
please,  if  not  to  instruct,  will  ever  be  the  wish  of 

THE  AUTHOR 

NEW- YOKE,  July,  1854. 


CONTENTS 


PART  I. 
THE  WHALE-SHIP. 

* 

CHAPTER  I. 

Introduction — Social  Elements — A  Forecastle — Our  Superiors — Familiar  Sketches 
— Personal  Apology — Professional  Diagnosis — A  Prescription 17 

CHAPTER  II. 

An  Industrious  Community — "  Learning  the  Ropes" — A  Witty  Skipper — Scrub- 
brooms  and  their  Uses — System — Mast-heads — Evening  Recreations 25 

CHAPTER  III. 

An  Unwelcome  Visitor — Hope  and  Despair — Consolation — Death — Sequel — 
Farewell  to  Mortality — Reflection 31 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Sunny  Skies — African  Isles — National  Characteristics — Supplies — A  Portuguese 
Trick — A  Village — St.  Jago — An  Accident — Excursion — Courtesy — Adios.,35 

CHAPTER  V. 

All  Aboard — Dark  Rumors — Tragical  Occurrence — A  Surprise — Effect  upon 
"  Old  John" — Premonition  of  Rigid  Discipline — A  Sea  Lawyer — Lodgings  in 
the  "Run." 41 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Our  Vulcan — Misplaced  Confidence — Results — Inconstancy — Steerage  Bill — 
A  Dangerous  Luxury — Mr.  Short  an  Artist — Monotony 46 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Rio  de  la  Plata — Oily  Anticipations — The  Planet  Deserted — Foraging  Parties — 
A  Squall — Perturbation  of  the  Cooper — Mr.  Grasper's  Misfortune — Recourse 
to  Surgery — Eulogy — Pastime 50 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Professional  Colloquy — Mr.  Grasper's  Excitement — Mr.  Short's  Humiliation — 
Mr.  Easy's  Success — Captain  Buck  a  Champion 57 


viii  Contents. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

A  Gale — Securing  Prize — Cutting  Gear — Perilous  Situation  of  Mr.  Easy — Mr. 
Gurrie  a  Man  of  Feeling — Almost  a  Tragedy — Timidity  of  Donald  and  Jon- 
athan— A  Few  Explanations 60 

CHAPTER  X. 

Official  Congratulations— Occupation  of  Messrs.  Folger  and  Weasle— Shakspeareian 
— A  Victim — Domestic  Employment — Night  Scenes — Skulking  between  Decks 
— A  Denouement 66 

CHAPTER  XL 

Maladies — A  Hospital  Delivery — Dentistry — Mr.  Grasper  a  Practitioner — His 
Prescription — A  Stag  at  Bay — An  Object  of  Commiseration 71 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Anticipation — Mr.  Gurrie's  Resolution — The  Home  of  Selkirk — Preparations — 
A  Document — Parallels  Drawn — Responsibilities  of  Mr.  Grasper — A  Consort — 
Conspiracy 76 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

"  Gamming" — Courtesy — Dancing — Accident  to  "  Chips" — Professional  Services 
in  Demand — A  Rat-ification — "  Smoking  Out" 80 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Evening  Tranquillity — Bathing — "  Shark,  0  !" — Mr.  Grasper's  Melancholy — Mr. 
Easy's  Dexterity — Thoughts  upon  Sharks — Decorating  the  Planet — A  Storm — 
In  Port  at  Last . .  83 


SEQUEL  TO  THE  FOREGOING. 

Disposition  of  Characters — Feat  of  O'Connor — Capitulation  of  Steerage  Bill 
and  Weasle — Adventure  of  "  Old  John" — Flight  to  the  Mountains — Tender- 
hearted Women — A  Mistake — Duplicity — Value  of  Money — The  Planet  on 
Fire — Daring  of  a  Sailor — Messrs.  Grasper  and  Short  as  Military  Men — 
Conclusion..,  ..87 


Contents.  ix 


PAET   II. 

•    HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS, 

CHAPTER  I. 

Lahaina — Sights  about  Town — Interested  Hospitality — Scanty  Wardrobe — 
"  John"  and  his  Wife  Nalimu— The  Palace— Kamehameha  III 93 

CHAPTER  II. 

A  Sailor  Ashore — Recognition — A  Tableau — O'Connor's  Yarn — A  Cosmop- 
olite  97 

CHAPTER  III. 

Forming  an  Acquaintances-Peculiarities — An  Editor's  Sanctum — Our  Landlady 
and  her  Protege — Explanations — A  Night  Adventure — Drinking  Awa — Conse- 
quences— Five  Years  have  Passed 100 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Reminiscences  of  the  Planet — Passage  Secured — The  "Kammey" — Under  Way — 
Scenery — Native  Epicures — Devotions — Preparations  for  Night — Hawaiian 
Nobility 108 

CHAPTER  V. 

Mountains  of  Oahu — The  Landscape — An  "  Island  City"  Described — Private 
Dwellings — Public  Edifices — Street  Scenes — Society — Marketing — Equestri- 
anship 112 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Places  of  Recreation — Moral  Evidences — Appearance  of  Surrounding  Country — 
View  from  Punch-bowl — Picturesque  Valley  of  Nuuanu — Romantic  Scenery  of 
the  Pali 112 

CHAPTER  VII. 

"  Hotel  de  France'' — Peculiarities  of  the  Hawaiian  Dialect — Native  Architecture 
and  Domestic  Economy — A  Planter — The  "  Kammey"  again — Departure — 
Momokus — Female  Pilot — "  Red-earth"  Landing 120 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

"  Long  Jim"  and  Steve — Gossip — The  Premises — Bullock-driving — Propensities 
of  Native  Cattle — A  Model  Plantation — Boundless  Prospect — Economy. .  .123 

CHAPTER  IX. 

<*• 

Social  Elements — Our  Nantucket  Cooper — His  Domestic  Afflictions — A  Polyne- 
sian Wife — Connubial  Felicity — Startling  Proposal — Weddings  and  Feast — 
The  Proprietor — A  Ghost-seer 128 


Contents. 


CHAPTER  X. 

In  the  Saddle — Ride  through  Kula — Scenery  at  Makawao — From  Makawao  to 
Wailuku — A  Golgotha — Pleasant  Village — Attentions  of  a  Chief— Souve- 
nir of  Gen.  Harrison — Waikapu — Over  the  Mountains — Incidents  by  the  Way 

•     — Lahaina 135 

CHAPTER  XI. 

A  Stormy  Channel — Girls  of  Molokai — Dissertation  on  Domestic  Cookery — 
Taste  for  Poi  Acquired — En  route  for  the  Mountains — Our  Quartermaster  and 
Associates — Lonely  Ravines — An  Old  Warrior — A  Relic  of  the  Past — Kelu- 
aaha — Ultra  Notions  of  Propriety , 139 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Sand-beach  of  Olualu — A  Desolate  Village — Desert — Whirlwinds — Sand-clouds — 
The  "  House  of  the  Sun" — Salt-ponds — Relics  of  Mortality — Journey  from 
Kalepolepo— The  "  Old  Plantation" 146 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

ILoiterings  with  Chain  and  Compass — Groves  of  Kula — Ascent  through  the  Forest 
— Interesting  Locality — Reconnoissance  above  the  Clouds — Journeying  Sea- 
ward— A  Page  of  Inconveniences — Burning  Sandal-wood — A  Dissatisfied 
Konohiki — Technicalities  of  Hawaiian  Law 149 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

A  Gale — Bob,  the  Storekeeper — Effects  of  the  Storm — The  Wreck — Cause  of 
the  Cooper's  Obligation — A  Reconnoitering  Party — Salvage  and  General 
Average — A  Loving  Wife — Moonlight  Sail — Kahulawe — Evening  Ramble — 
Native  Superstition 156 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Wrecking — Natural  Dormitory — Preparations  for  the  Morrow — A  Stroll  Across 
the    Hills — Pastoral    Diversion — A   Desolate    Island — Deceitful    Shrubbery — 
Stores    Exhausted — Gathering    Shell  fish   upon   the   Reefs — A    "  Genius    of 
*  Famine" — Relief — Beacon   of    Fire — Embarkation — Storm — Perils    of    Reef- 
Roving — Female  Delicacy 161 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

A  Holiday  Ramble — Hunting  Party — Pigeon-roost — Cheerless  Aspect  of 
the  Landscape — The  Cavern — Torchlight — Economical  Apparatus — Profound 
Darkness — Over  the  Hills — Beating  Kapa — Ruined  Hcidu — Interesting  to 
Sportsmen — Ancient  Wells — Mountain  Dew — Submarine  Grot — Farewell  to 
Ulupalakua 168 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

A  Landscape — The  Town — Tragic  Scene  in  Hawaiian  History — Assassination  of 
a  King — An  Acquaintance  Discovered — Courting  by  Proxy — A  Native  Belle 
— Officious  Duennas — Female  Discretion— Departure 175 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Courting — Sterile  Aspect  of  the  Shore — Imposing  Spectacle — Cruising  at  Ran- 
dom— A  Valet  de  Ckambre  Recognized — Town  of  Kailue — Extinct  Volcano — 
Fruit-bearing  Groves — Lava  Caverns — Scarcity  of  Fresh  Water — In  Search  of 
a  Village 180 


Contents.  xi 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Kealakekua  Bay,  where  Cook  Fell — Tradition — Repositories  of  the  Dead — 
Courtesy  of  a  Native  Judge — Ride  over  Chaos — A  Classic  Locality — Battle — 
Death  of  a  Chief,  and  Female  Devotion — Keauho — Relic  of  Kamehameha  the 
Great—"  The  Blind  leading  the  Blind"— Tumulus  of  Cook— Village  of  Kawa- 
.16a— Midnight  Epicures—"  The  Last  of  Earth" 184 

CHAPTER  XX. 

An  Iron-bound  Shore — Native  Mermaids — A  Natural  Ornament — Procuring 
Cargo — Stroll  up  the  Mountain — Charming  Scenery — One  of  the  Ancient 
Regime — Pertaining  to  Psychology — Ludicrous  Incident — Singing  School — 
Native  Chorister— The  Meeting 190 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Heathen  Relics — Affection  for  the  Dead — Transmigration  of  Souls — An  Unsym- 
pathizing  Relative — A  Monomaniac — Surf-riding — Heavy  Breakers — A  Pair 
of  Guardians — Experiences — Native  Economy — Departure  for  Lahaina. .  .194 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  "  Twin  Giants" — Beauty  and  Sublimity — The  Paradise  of  Hawaii — Hilo  Bay 
— Natural  Productions — Beautiful  Homestead — Missionary  Residence — Pleas- 
ure Grounds — Streams — The  Rainbow  Fall — "  Maid  of  the  Mist" — Bathing — 
Juvenile  Recreations — Volcanic  Eruption — Sky  at  Midnight 198 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Quadrupeds  and  Bipeds — The  Journey — Natural  Scenery — Roads — The  Goddess 
Pele — Half-way  House — Attractions  of  the  Cuisine — Shampooing — "  Tales  of 
my  Landlord" — Value  of  Pork — Our  Dormitory — A  Guide — Volcanic  Eviden- 
ces— An  Impressive  Sight — "  Circumnavigating"  a  Crater — The  Stygean  Lake 
— Natural  Distillery  and  Oven — Sulphur  Banks — Chasms 203 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Night — A  Fabled  Divinity — Legend  of  Kamapua,  the  Centaur  of  Hawaii — Descent 
into  the  Crater — Inscriptions — Appearance  of  Lava — Recent  Eruption — The 
Lake  of  Fire — Thoughts  in  a  Volcano — Startling  Phenomena — Burning  Cone 
— Gathering  Specimens — Bottomless  Pits — Native  Superstition — Dimensions  of 
the  Crater — Mountain  Heaths — Grouse — Mauna  L6a  and  Maunakea — Desolate 
Regions — Mount  Hualalai — Waimea — Fertile  and  Sterile  Districts — The  Re- 
turn— Visitors  at  the  Half-way  House — Book  of  Autographs — Reach  Hilo — 
Farewell  to  Hawaii ..211 


xii  Contents. 


PAKT  III. 
GEORGIAN  AND  SOCIETY  ISLANDS, 


CHAPTER  I. 

Baffling  Winds— The  "  Eliza  Mary" — Associates — Merton  and  Capt.  Ben — Man- 
gaia  Natives — Huahine — "  The  Distant  Sky" — Beautiful  Panorama — Across 
the  Lagoon — Native  Antipathy  towards  French  Bunting — First  Impressions — 
How  the  Foreigners  live  in  Raiatea — A  Reminiscence  of  Rebellion 223 

CHAPTER  II. 

A  House  Built — Inclosures — A  Rebel  Chieftain — The  Natives — Costume — Pere- 
grinations— "  The  Pig  that  runs  on  the  Ground" — "  Sandwich  Island  Johnny" 
— Breakfast — A  B^evy  of  Beauties—Crustacea—Church  and  School-house— Prep- 
arations for  Housekeeping 227 

CHAPTER  III. 

The  Premises — Evening  Entertainment — Vocal  Melody — Manner  of  Obtaining 
Fire — A  Primitive  Lamp — Visitors — Mechanical  Skill  of  Jasper  and  Howard — 
Our  Parlor — Items  of  Domestic  Economy — Merton's  Report — Bob  as  Quarter- 
master— Noble  Condescension — A  Dernier  Resort 232 

CHAPTER  IV. 

French  Policy — Results  of  Conquest — King  Tamatoa — Cause  of  Political  Dis- 
cord— An  Arbitrary  Regent — The  Chief  Tamare — Standard  of  Rebellion 
Raised — A  Battle — Bravery  of  the  King — Defeat  and  Flight — Fugitives  Pre- 
served by  French  Interference — Provisional  Government  Established — An 
Old  Roman — Royal  Duplicity — Results  of  War 237 

CHAPTER  V. 

Disappointment — Division  in  the  Family — Merton's  Adventure — The  Stranger — 
Acquaintances  Introduced — An  Eccentric  Judge — Citizens  of  Raiatea — Illness, 
and  Manifestations  of  Sympathy — Tamare's  Daughter — Defects  of  our  Model 
System — Merton  Circumnavigates  the  Island — Howard's  Excursion  to  Op6a .  242 

CHAPTER  VI. 

A  Tempest — Gloomy  Prospect — The  Canoe — Beauties  of  the  Lagoon — Varieties 
of  Coral — Theories  respecting  their  Formation  and  Growth — Reef  Coral — 
Lithophytic  Plants — Remarkable  Specimen — We  Reach  the  Motu — Formation 
of  Islets — A  Royal  Asylum — Luxury  Amid  Solitude — A  Labyrinth — The  Great 
Barren  Re,ef — Beauty  and  Majesty — Howard  Obtains  a  Prize — Dr.  Doan's 
Promise 247 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Tranquillity — Obsolete  Fashions — The  Church  and  Congregation — A  Juvenile 
Propensity — Devotion — Missionaries — System  Pursued — Absence  of  Intellect- 
ual Progress  among  the  Natives — Astronomical  Error — Respect  for  the  Sab- 
bath— Establishment  of  the  Mission — Conversion  of  King  Pomare  in  1812 — 
Comparison  Instituted — Social  Benefits  Conferred — Idolatry  and  Mythology  .253 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Teo's  Sail-Boat — Scenery  by  the  Way — A  Dowrv — Preservation  of  Bread-fruit — 


Contents.  xiii 


Bathing — Cocoanuts — Leave  Havila — Vanity,  a  Female  Quality— A  Beautiful 
Bay — Te6's  Villa— Royal  Hospitality . 256 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Opoa — The  Sacred  Grove — A  Gloomy  Forest — Heathen  Relics — Tumulus — • 
Solemn  Shades — Oro,  the  Insatiate  God — Manner  of  Procuring  Victims — A 
Human  Sacrifice — Affecting  Scene .261 

CHAPTER  X. 

The  Oha  Tree — Rendezvous  for  High-born  Lovers — Teo  an  Agriculturist — 
"  Tally,  Ho  !" — Adieu  to  Royalty — Coral  Gathering — Rambles  Barefooted — 
The  Forest — Lethean  Stream — Deatfoilike  Solitude — Canoe  Sailing — Ruined 
Plantation — A  Lonely  Valley — Return — Embarkation — Rafting — Working  Pas- 
sage   265 

CHAPTER  XI. 

The  Assemblage — Doctor  Doan — Extemporaneous  Eloquence — Merton  on  Poli- 
tics— The  Doctor's  Sentiments  upon  the  same  Subject — A  New  Phase — 
Jasper's  Song — Merton's  Poem — Doctor  Doan's  Critique — Merton's  Impromptu 
— Adjournment 271 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Hasty  Departure — Contemplated  Voyage — The  Falcon — Our  Consort — Coral 
Fields — Borabora,  Extent  and  Appearance — Romantic  Scenery — A  South  Sea 
Warrior — Nautical  Manoeuvres — The  Brass  Swivel 279 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Morning  in  Polynesia — The  Regent  Mateha — Public  Grounds  and  Edifices — Old 
Pensioners — Bread-fruit — Settlement  and  Scenery — Mountain  Streams — An 
Incident — The  Home  of  a  Missionary 283 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Troublesome  Interlopers — A  Renegade  Chieftain — Canoe  Excursion — Accident — 
A  Solitary  Island — Propagation  of  Palm  Groves — Value — Native  Indolence — 
Relic  of  the  French  War — Inexcusable  Carelessness — Poisonous  Fish — 
Native  Pharmacy 289 

CHAPTER    XV. 

TAHITI. — Peak  of  Orohena — Moorea — First  Impressions — Town  of  Papeete 
Described — French  Improvements — Market — Hotels — Chief  Attraction 293 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

A  Cottage — "Broom  Road  Gang" — Loitering — Pearl  Fishery — Suburban  Views 
— French  Injustice — Mutois — Road  to  Fataoa — Matavai  and  Point  Venus — 
Reminiscence  of  Hawaii 298 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Mountain  Lake — Scenes  and  Scenery  by  the  Way — Matrimonial  Differences — 
"The  Slough  of  Despond" — The  Broom  Road — Aowa — Village  of  Papara — 
Merry  Damsels — Equestrian  Indulgence — Reach  Aurofa — Apo's  Family — 
Quizzing  Propensity  of  the  Daughters — Household  Economy 302 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Departure — Robinson  Crusoe  Cottage — Civility  of  a  Resident — Guide  Selected — 
Preparations  for  Visiting  the  Lake — Forest  and  Valley — Fatiguing  Path — 
An  Expedient — Ailima's  Dog — Mountain  Ascent — Scenery — The  Lake — Capt. 
Beechy's  Observations — Encampment 307 


xiv  Contents. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Return  to  Papeuriri — A  Vagrant's  Soliloquy — Contemplated  Project  for  Enforcing 
Industry — Forcing  Results — Native  Resources — Papeete — Pomare-tane,  the 
Royal  Consort — Amusing  Incidents — A  Courtier — Hawaiian  and  Tahitian  No- 
bility Compared — Anecdote  Illustrative  of  French  Justice — The  "  Monumental 
City" 313 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Crew  and  Passengers  Described — Leave  Tahiti — Storm — Submarine  Cell — 
Inconveniences — Reach  Eimeo — Midnight  Search  for  Lodgings — An  Interest- 
ing Companion — Adventures  in  a  Church — A  Hypocrite — Freak  of  Nature — 
Tradition  of  Oro  and  the  Little  God  Tii 318 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

The  Carpenter's  Premises — A  Convivial  Party — The  Carpenter's  Apology — 
Comments  by  a  Guest — "  The  Girl  I  Left  Behind  Me" — Reminiscences  of  Omoo 
— Long  Ghost  and  the  Object  of  his  Solicitude — Tragical  Fate  of  Mrs.  Bell — 
The  Lake — Forest  of  Pandanus  Trees — Primitive  Solitude — Our  Major-Domo — 
An  Extortion 321 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

All  Aboard— Rain-Storm— A  Wilderness—In  Search  of  Shelter— Wigwams— The 
Paumotu  Girl — Fruitless  Search — Camping  Out — Discover  a  Village — Break- 
fast— Civility — A  Bridge  Described — Juvenile  Recreation — Singing  School — 
Sunday — At  Sea — Deplorable  Condition  of  our  Larder — Maiau — An  Inhospita- 
ble Island — Incidents  of  passing  to  Raiatea 325 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Arrival  of  British  Consul — Tenants  of  Eelspring — A  Legend — Visit  to  the 
Cavern — Mountain  Scenery — Tints  of  the  Lagoon — A  Remarkable  Flower — 
The  Cavern — Descent — Unpleasant  Situation — Escape — A  Feast — Ill-timed 
Politeness — Delicate  Sensibility 332 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

A  British  Sailor — Warlike  Evidences — Premeditated  Naval  Conflict — Dr.  Doan  a 
Commander — A  British  Consul  between  two  Fires — Scenes  in  the  Camp  of 
Tamare — Indiscretion  of  Mrs.  Lassiter — Espionage — Warriors  of  Tahaa — An 
Armistice — Officiousness  Inherent  in  Females — Teo's  Preparations  for  a  Siege 
— A  New-Yorker — Kindness  of  Tamare's  Wife 849 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

A  Foster  Mother — Arrival  at  Borabora — Visit  to  the  Fdle  Franc — Social  Habits 
of  Hawaiians  and  Tahitians — Reminiscence  of  Louis  Quatorze — Lodgings  with 
Tane — Landlord  Described — Attempt  at  Suicide — Mrs.  Tane — Her  Daughters, 
Married  and  Unmarried — An  Aspiring  Son-in-Law — Matea's  Toilet — Improvisa- 
trices — Household  Furniture — Domestic  Cookery  and  Cutlery — Tane  as  a 
Commercial  Agent — His  Eccentricity 344 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

A.n  Arrival — Captain  Harry — Commercial  Transactions — Necessity  for  Diplomatic 
Relations — Chancery  Suits — Tane's  Account  Current — The  "  Commercial 
Agent"  Inconsolable — A  Dangerous  Resort — "  Three  Sheets  in  the  Wind" — 
An  Interesting  Colloquy — A  Drunken  Struggle — Tane's  Farewell — Loss  of 
Favor..  ..361 


Contents.  xv 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Excursion — Scenery  of  the  Valley — The  Doctor  Purchases  a  Cargo — Fruits — The 
Paumotu  Girl — Wrapping  Oranges — Propensity  to  Gossip — Indulgence  of 
Floral  Ornaments  prohibited  by  Missionaries 357 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

A  Word  Concerning  Missions — Success  of  Missionary  Labors — Characteristics 
of  Native  Converts — Depopulation  not  attributable  to  Missions — Social  Con- 
dition of  Missionaries  in  Polynesia — Unpleasantness  of  Drawing  Distinctions 
— A  Comparison  Instituted — Missionary  Statistics — Comparative  Progress  of 
Protestant  and  Roman  Catholic  Missions — Conclusion 361 


APPENDIX    I. 

A    GLANCE    AT    THE    PRESENT    CONDITION    OF    POLYNESIA. 

The  five  grand  Divisions  of  Oceanica — Great  Polynesian  Triangle — Classification 
of  Groups — Structure — Easter  Island — Climate  and  Diseases  of  First-Class 
Islands — Second-Class  Islands — Third-Class  or  Coral  Islands — Commerce  of 
the  Low  Islands — Savage  Islands — Natural  Productions  of  First-Class  Groups 
— Introduction  of  Domestic  Animals — Population  of  Polynesia — The  Natives — 
Physical  Appearance  and  Intellectual  Capacity — Their  Language — Hawaiian 
Dialect — Poetry — Government  and  Social  Condition  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  : 
Georgian  and  Society  ;  Paumotu  ;  Marquesas ;  Samoan  ;  Tonga  ;  Hervey  ; 
and  Austral  Islands — Natural  and  Agricultural  Resources  of  Polynesia — San- 
dal-wood— Future  Tillers  of  the  Soil — Honolulu,  Papeete,  and  Apia,  as  Depots 
for  Pacific  Steam  Navigation. . .  .  .373 


APPENDIX   II. 

THE    ISLAND    KINGDOM    OF    THE    NORTH    PACIFIC. 

Territorial  Extent — Comparison  with  Cuba  instituted — Natural  Conformation' — 
Soil  and  Productions — Climate  and  attendant  Phenomena — Chief  Towns — 
Inter-Communication — Steam  Navigation — Statistics  for  1853 — National  Leg- 
islature —Imports — Exports — Revenue,  &c — Whale  Fishery — Department 
of  Interior — Public  Instruction — Finance — Foreign  Relations — Census — Agri- 
culture—  Value  of  Staple  Commodities — Sugar  Planting — Retrospective  View 
of  Statistics — Annexation  Considered — Comparison  of  Results — Capability  of 
Hawaiians — American  Politics  and  Interests  Predominant — Prospective  Na- 
tional Decrease — Policy  of  European  Nations — The  Independence  or  Posses- 
sion of  these  Islands  Important  to  the  United  States — Conclusion 399 


xvi  Contents. 


APPENDIX   III. 


THE    FRENCH    IN    THE    PACIFIC. 

Political  Boundaries  of  the  Pacific — Area — Retrospective  Glance  at  French 
Policy — Events  of  1841  and  1842 — Possessions  of  French  Defined — Occupation 
of  Marquesas  Islands  by  Du  Petit  Thouars — Sentiments  of  Louis  Philippe  and 
M.  Guizot — Conquest  of  Tahiti — Causes  for  National  Interference — Naval  and 
Land  Forces — Policy  of  the  Protectorate — Port  and  Police  Regulations — Unjust 
Exactions — Permit  of  Residence — Hostility  towards  the  English  Mission — 
Official  Proclamation — Moral  Retrogression  of  Natives — Protectorate  favorably 
considered — Commodore  Wilkes  on  the  Resources  of  this  Group — Pesent  Con- 
dition and  Exports — Comparison  with  Mauritius — Anticipated  Difficulties  at 
Tongatabu — Seizure  of  New  Caledonia — Position  of  the  Navigator  Islands — 
Superficial  Comparison  of  French  and  English  Colonies 419 


APPENDIX   IV. 

AMERICAN   WHALING    INTERESTS    IN    THE    PACIFIC. 

Prominent  Features  of  Whaling — Cruising-Grounds  of  Sperm  Whalers  ;  of  Right 
Whalers — Traffic  and  Exchange — Estimated  Capital  Employed — Our  present 
Fleet  compared  with  that  of  1844  ;  with  that  of  Europe — Imports  of  1844  ;  of 
1853 — Increased  Value  of  Products—Relation  to  our  Merchant  Marine— Ports  fre- 
quented— Petty  Exactions — Micronesian  Ports — Honolulu — Seamen,  their  Con- 
dition and  Wants  ;  Relations  to  Consuls — Foreigners  as  Commercial  Agents  ; 
Ludicrous  Incident — Our  Consular  System — Conclusive  Glance  at  the  Pro- 
fession . .  447 


THE   WHALE-SHIP. 


CHAPTER    I. 

WE  SHAPE  OUR  COURSE. 

To  an  observer  from  the  shore,  there  is  something  imposing  in 
the  sight  of  a  noble  ship,  with  her  masts  looming  loftily,  and  her 
taper  spars  standing  forth  in  graceful  relief  against  the  clear  sky, 
while  a  cloud  of  snowy  canvas,  like  extended  wings,  is  urging  her 
onward  through  the  liquid  element.  If  perchance  a  jet  of  flame 
leaps  from  her  dark  side,  and  a  booming  sound  like  distant  thunder 
comes  echoing  across  the  water  and  reverberating  among  the  hills, 
emotions  of  sublimity  are  awakened.  But  there  is  something  inde- 
scribably ludicrous  in  the  appearance  of  'eighteen  or  twenty  recruits 
lumbering  the  deck  of  a  whaler,  some  of  them  leaning  languidly 
against  the  try-works,  with  their  orbs  rolled  deprecatingly  up,  and 
others  grouped  about  the  windlass  in  accidental  postures  of  despair. 

Without  venturing  upon  undue  familiarity,  let  me  beg  courteous 
readers  to  accompany  me  for  a  brief  interval  to  my  floating  home, 
suggesting,  however,  to  such  as  are  ultra-fastidious,  to  wrap  their 
garments  carefully  about  them  to  avoid  contamination.  No  gilded 
saloons  nor  decorated  panels  meet  the  eye ;  but  there  is  a  matter-of- 
fact  appearance  about  everything  that  seems  to  imply,  we  have  done 
with  the  frivolities,  and  now  for  the  realities  of  life.  I  believe  it 
will  be  mutually  agreeable  when  I  refrain  from  a  disquisition  on 
"  dog  watches"  and  "  seven  bells  ;"  for  ropes  and  marlinspikes  have 
become  stale,  and  meditations  over  tar  buckets  grown  insipid. 

2 


18         .  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

Forecastles,  like  friendships,  improve  on  acquaintance  ;  and 
though  diversified  with  the  odds  and  ends  of  humanity,  a  careful 
study  of  the  emotions,  and  passions  that  have  been  hatched  and 
brooded  within  their  narrow  precincts  would  afford  no  ignoble 
theme  for  the  pages  of  philosophy.  They  are  frequently  the  last 
jumping-off  place  for  renegade  pettifoggers  and  professional  gentle- 
men of  other  denominations,  whose  fortunes  have  become  desperate, 
and  who  exchange  their  ventilated  insignia  for  duck  trowsers  and 
guernsey  frocks.  Here  they  abandon  theories  for  realities,  forsak- 
ing the  comforts  for  the  hardships  of  life  ;  and  if  they  be  of  medi- 
tative turn,  they  hamper  themselves  with  the  brighter  incidents  of 
retrospection,  having  ample  opportunity  to  reflect  upon  the  conse- 
quences of  their  indiscretion. 

We  were  a  motley  assemblage  of  Americans,  English,  Irish, 
.Scotch,  French,  and  Portuguese  ;  besides,  we  could  boast  of  every 
shade  of  complexion,  from  the  fair  Saxon  to  the  sable  African  ;  and, 
as  might  be  supposed,  there  was  a  diversity  of  disposition  among 
.us,  the  consequence  of  personal  habit  or  national  characteristic. 
The  blunt  frankness  of  Bull  and  Jonathan  was  in  striking  contrast 
.to  the  intriguing  disposition  of  the  swarthy  Portuguese,  while  the 
volubility  of  the  Hibernian  harmonized  with  the  enthusiasm  of  the 
merry  Gaul.  But  there  were  never  those  feelings  of  odd-fellowship 
among  us  which  usually  characterize  the  crew  of  a  merchantman  : 
some  feud  existed,  some  score  to  be  wiped  out,  precluding  all  pos- 
sibility of  a  permanent  reconciliation  between  the  adverse  parties, 
although  a  general  treaty  was  sometimes  agreed  upon.  Above  every 
consideration,  an  hereditary  warfare  was  perpetually  waged  against 
the  greenhorns. 

Without  attempting  an  essay  upon  sleep,  I  conceive  that  fancy 
may  invest  the  imagination  with  as  pleasing  imagery,  though  its  pos- 
sessor be  inclosed  between  rough  boards  and  immersed  in  the  coarse 
fabric  of  Leeds,  as  it  could  do  though  surrounded  by  gorgeous  tapes- 
try and  luxuriating  amid  the  fine  linen  of  Egypt.  Nevertheless,  it 
was  a  bone  of  contention  to  see  who  should  secure  the  lower  bunks, 
for  the  obvious  reason  that  in  warm  weather,  when  the  decks  were 
washed  down,  a  number  of  briny  streams  might  be  seen  filtering 
through  the  oakum  into  the  upper  tier. 


A  Company  Described.  19 

The  "  Planet's"  forecastle  had  perhaps  nothing  to  distinguish  it 
from  similar  sub-residences.  I  descended  the  rough  ladder  with 
the  feelings  of  a  novice  who  for  the  first  time  ventures  into  the  shaft 
of  a  coal-mine.  Its  form  Avas  of  course  triangular,  and  its  sides 
lined  with  parallel  rows  of  narrow  bunks,  some  of  which  made  a 
flaunting  display  of  calico  curtains,  being  otherwise  decorated  with 
amorous  lithographic  designs,  while  others  made  a  modest  display 
of  the  coarse  blankets  from  the  slop-chest.  From  some  of  them, 
diminutive  shelves  jutted  out,  for  the  purpose  of  securing  a  lamp 
when  the  occupant  was  disposed  to  devote  a  few  moments  of  his 
watch  below  to  reading.  The  floor  was  covered  with  chests  of 
every  description,  from  the  old  family  trunk,  bestowed  by  the  dot- 
ing mamma  upon  her  adventurous  boy,  to  the  capacious  receptacle 
of  the  professional  Jack. 

Rarely,  if  ever,  is  a  forecastle  silent,  except  during  the  night 
watches  :  yarns  are  spun  and  reeled,  and  loved  ditties  sung,  chiefly 
on  the  chromatic  scale  ;  some  play  fox  and  geese,  or  "  old  sledge," 
if  the  moral  scruples  of  the  skipper  will  permit.  You  will  occa- 
sionally hear  the  unavailing  regrets  of  some  home-sick  "  verdant," 
who  is  continually  tantalizing  himself  with  visions  of  domestic  bliss, 
hoping  to  elicit  a  sypmpathizing  word  from  the  older  seamen,  but 
which  usually  result  in  the  protrusion  of  sundry  heads  from  the 
blankets,  accompanied  by  unmistakable  growls  and  demonstrations, 
invariably  producing  the  effect  intended. 

As  regards  dining  utensils,  it  was  sheath-knives  and  tin-pans  versus 
silver  forks  and  porcelain.  Though  the  iron  hoops  of  the  pine 
coffee-bucket  had  grown  rusty,  and  the  interior  of  the  vessel  become 
saturated  and  discolored  with  a  suspicious  debris,  yet  it  would  have 
been  a  fastidious  stomach  that  would  not  have  yearned  for  its  con- 
tents on  a  frosty  morning  when  Weasle  came  staggering  forward 
with  it,  almost  enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  savory  steam. 

With  becoming  reverence,  I  turn  my  attention  to  the  quarter-deck, 
to  look  upon  those  who  have  so  often  reminded  us  that  the  Planet 
was  to  be  our  home  for  the  next  four  years,  and  that  we  had  "  signed 
articles  to  do  our  duty  by  day  and  by  night."  Captain  Peter  Smith 
Buck  was  a  man  of  medium  height,  broad-shouldered,  having  a  well- 
knit  frame  ;  yet  there  was  nothing  classical  in  his  proportions,  for 


20  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

they  tended  rather  to  corpulency  than  otherwise.  He  was  an  able, 
weather-beaten  seaman,  possessing  at  times  generous  impulses  ;  but 
on  ordinary  occasions  his  feelings  were  as  callous  as  his  features. 

But  how  shall  I  attempt  to  describe  Mr.  Grasper — Mr.  O.  C. 
Grasper — our  first  officer,  that  champion  of  the  lance  and  short  warp, 
who  has  so  often  carried  death  to  great  leviathan  beneath  a  burning 
sun  and  amid  icy  seas !  He,  too,  in  point  of  dimension,  possessed 
extraordinary  breadth  of  beam,  that  savored  more  of  Bacchus  than 
Apollo.  His  arm  !  that  brawny,  muscular  appendage,  if  incased 
in  a  leaden  gauntlet,  might  have  hurled  terror  into  the  arena  of 
Olympia ;  but,  fortunately,  its  prowess  was  reserved  for  labors  con- 
ducive to  the  wants  of  man.  Between  its  flexors  and  inflexors  a 
tacit  understanding  appeared  to  exist,  so  that  digits  and  patronymic 
had  a  strong  affinity  for  each  other ;  their  incessant  grasping  pro- 
pensity obtained  for  them  the  appellation  of  "  grappling  irons,"  and 
woe  to  the  victim  who  felt  their  embrace ! 

That  tall  man  issuing  orders  respecting  the  waist-boat,  and  clothed 
with  blue  trowsers  and  shirt,  subscribes  himself  to  a  ship's  articles 
as  Hezekiah  Gurrie,  Jr.  He  is  our  second  officer,  a  good  seaman, 
and  an  industrious  man.  There  are  certain  quadrupeds  that  inti- 
mate their  disposition  by  a  premonitory  growl.  Mr.  Gurrie  resem- 
bled one  of  these  ;  and  although  he  always  turned  an  evil  eye  upon 
me,  I  will  frankly  award  him  the  praise  his  due,  for  it  was  what  he 
considered  an  infringement  of  his  rights  and  duties  as  an  able 
seaman,  by  Captain  Buck,  that  led  to  the  rupture  which  subsequently 
occurred. 

Mr.  Short,  our  third  officer,  was  in  every  respect  of  inferior  cal- 
ibre. Should  this  ever  meet  his  eye,  I  hope  he  will  remember 
that  hypocrisy  is  an  ungrateful  return  for  favors  bestowed.  He  was 
a  hardy,  weather-beaten  sailor,  and  always  at  his  post  in  case  of 
emergency. 

Mr.  Easy,  our  fourth  officer,  was  a  young  man,  expert  in  his  pro- 
fession, and  usually  prompt  in  the  performance  of  his  duty.  In  his 
intercourse  with  his  inferiors,  I  do  not  think  he  was  ever  guilty  of 
personal  violence  ;  and  I  am  happy  to  add  that  with  him  I  have 
passed  many  a  pleasant  hour. 

Next  in  grade  comes  the  steerage,  a  kind  of  stepping-stone  for 


A  Genuine  Down-Easter.  21 

Jack  in  the  way  of  promotion  :  here  lived  the  cooper,  boat-steerers, 
and  carpenter.  Gouty  old  cooper  !  How  much  I  owe  you  for  your 
kindness  !  Perhaps  you  consider  the  debt  cancelled  in  a  measure 
by  the  soothing  remedies  I  have  so  often  applied  to  your  rheumatic 
shoulders,  not  forgetting  instances  of  warm  decoctions  and  "  soft 
tack7'  prepared  by  special  request.  If  the  top-gallantmast  required 
slushing,  or  the  dead-eyes  needed  scraping,  the  cooper  always 
wanted  some  one  about  that  time  to  hold  on  to  his  staves,  or  help 
him  make  bungs  ;  and  no  one  wras  "  half  so  handy  at  it  as  the 
Doctor."  Thus  I  was  spared  the  annoyance  of  many  a  disagreeable 
job,  wrhile  on  such  occasions  he  would  entertain  me  with  famous 
long  yarns  about  the  "  heathen  savages  of  the  Feejees,"  with  heads 
as  large  as  half-bushels,  and  yellow  eyeballs. 

Our  boat-steerers  were,  every  one  of  them,  good  fellows,  with 
ready  hands,  and,  I  hope,  honest  hearts  ;  one  of  them,  "  Old  John," 
as  we  used  to  call  him,  was  a  most  inveterate  growl.  Many  were 
his  sarcastic  allusions  to  the  old  "  gurry  bdX,"  which  on  ordinary 
occasions  was  "  too  much  by  the  head,"  and  otherwise  "  out  of 
ballast  trim."  A  want  of  precision  in  trimming  the  yards,  and  the 
necessity  of  making  or  reducing  sail,  afforded  him  favorite  themes 
for  censure  ;  and  as  his  views  on  these  points  never  coincided  with 
those  of  the  officer  of  the  v  atch,  he  was  condescending  enough  to 
attribute  the  oversights  or  deficiency  to  that  gentleman's  error  in 
judgment.  But  John  had  one  treasure  which  he  prized  above  all 
others,  and  that  was  an  old  Epitome,  published,  I  imagine,  when 
the  science  of  navigation  was  in  embyro.  This  was  the  oracle  he 
invariably  consulted  when  the  topic  in  dispute  happened  to  be 
nautical :  with  reference  to  latitude  and  longitude,  any  discrepancies 
that  might  exist  between  the  observations  of  Cook,  Wilkes,  or  the 
Spanish  navigator,  whose  motto  was,  "  Primus  me  circumdedit," 
John  would  happily  adjust  by  reference  to  his  medium. 

It  would,  perhaps,  be  inappropriate  to  particularize  all  my  com- 
panions, but  I  will  endeavor  to  present  brief  delineations  of  char- 
acter, as  occasion  may  require.  I  made  a  companion  of  a  fellow 
named  Josh,  a  down-east  Yankee,  whose  straight  flaxen  hair  hung 
like  thatch  around  his  ruddy  cheeks,  who  had  some  nautical  ex- 
perience, and  was  not  to  be  intimidated  by  anything  like  bombast. 


22  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

Josh  had  a  sweetheart  at  home,  and  he  showed  me  a  parting 
souvenir  she  had  bestowed — a  lock  of  hair.  Another  individual, 
named  Folger,  who  occupied  the  bunk  above  me,  came  from  some- 
where in  Ohio.  When  I  first  met  him  at  the  rendezvous,  he  sported 
what  had  once  been  a  white  linen  shirt-collar,  and  a  drap  d'ete, 
"  shad-belly,"  and  was  commenting  somewhat  freely  upon  the  con- 
templated arrangements.  From  various  expressions,  I  inferred 
that  he  was  drawing  a  marked  line  of  distinction  between  himself 
and  those  around  him.  I  subsequently  learned  something  of  this 
gentleman's  history : — he  was  once  a  Democrat,  but  for  three  years 
had  been  a  staunch  Whig,  and,  I  trust,  a  valuable  acquisition  to  his 
party  ;  he  had  several  times  been  an  assistant  delegate  to  some  of 
our  great  Conventions,  and  on  one  occasion  he  condescended  to 
accept  the  proffered  hand  of  his  political  foe,  Martin  Van  Buren. 
I  had  my  fears  at  first  lest  his  radical  views  might  prompt  him  to 
set  on  foot  some  plot  to  overturn  the  established  dynasty,  and  insti- 
tute a  sort  of  Marine  Provisional  Government ;  but  whatever  might 
have  been  his  prospective  arrangements,  his  embryo  aspirations 
forever  vanished  after  the  first  night  in  the  Gulf  Stream. 

Among  our  number  was  one  we  called  Weasle,  a  tall,  slim  fel- 
low, with  a  hatchet  face,  who  had  never  before  seen  salt  water. 
Being  somewhat  whimsical,  he  had  forsaken  his  domestic  vocations 
in  the  backwoods,  and  strolling  through  South  Street,  was  picked 
up  by  some  of  the  sharks,  who  persuaded  him  to  ship  on  the 
Planet,  alleging  that  the  sea  air  was  bracing  to  weak  nerves.  There 
are  some  who,  fashion  them  as  you  will,  can  never  be  modelled 
into  sailors  ;  there  is  something  about  the  "  cut  of  their  jibs"  that 
in  the  eye  of  an  old  salt  marks  them  as  landsmen  abroad. 
Wreasle  was  one  of  these,  and  during  the  six  months  he  was 
with  us  he  acquired  nothing  pertaining  to  seamanship  but  what  he 
was  absolutely  compelled  to  ;  however,  he  had  some  redeeming 
traits,  for  as  soon  as  his  tribute  to  Neptune  had  ceased,  he  fell  nat- 
urally into  the  routine  of  drudgery  that  had  to  be  performed  about 
the  ship.  WThether  the  vocation  of  tending  swine  revived  pleasing 
reminiscences  or  not,  he  was  faithful  in  the  performance  of  that 
duty  ;  and  it  was  pleasant  to  observe  the  sympathy  for  each  other 
that  sprung  up  between  guardian  and  brute.  \Veasle,  in  his 


Personal  Apology.  23 


striped  guernsey  frock,  could  hardly  cross  the  deck,  in  proximity  to 
his  proteges,  without  a  grunt  of  recognition,  and  I  believe  the  hap- 
piest moments  he  passed  were  those  devoted  to  feeding  them. 
Although  no  sailor,  he  was  spared  the  jeers  of  his  shipmates,  for 
the  duties  instinctively  performed  by  him  spared  them  the  neces- 
sity of  many  a  disagreeable  job.  I  wish  I  could  add  as  much  in 
behalf  of  the  officers  ;  but  it  was  an  evil  moment  when  Mr.  Grasper 
conceived  his  first  impressions  of  him,  for  I  have  seen  him  seize 
the  unfortunate  Weasle  by  the  nape  of  the  neck,  and  spin  him 
(around  like  a  top.  All  these  humiliations  and  indignities  were 
meekly  borne  ;  he  held  on  the  tenor  of  his  way,  patiently  tending 
his  swine,  who  looked  upon  him  as  an  emblem  of  peace  and  love. 

Before  closing  this  chapter  I  will  modestly  venture  a  bit  of 
egotism ;  though,  with  reference  to  introducing  myself  to  the  reader 
in  the  poetic  apparel  of  duck  trowsers  and  hickory  shirt,  I  would 
merely  observe,  that  it  is  pleasanter  to  contemplate  results  than 
to  investigate  causes :  what  I  wish  to  explain  is,  how  I  ac- 
quired the  title  of  Doctor.  I  had  taken  the  precaution  to  provide 
myself  with  a  few  medicines,  and  was  indebted  to  the  kindness 
of  a  professional  gentleman  for  a  couple  of  old  forceps  and  a  case 
of  "  dressing  instruments,"  and  who  at  the  same  time  hinted  "  I 
might  as  well  get  my  hand  in."  Though  possessing  a  venerable 
edition  of  Wood  and  Bache,  besides  retaining  a  few  recollections 
of  cliniques,  I  would  have  blushed  to  rank  myself  among  professed 
disciples  of  Hippocrates.  Nevertheless,  the  evidences  I  possessed 
were  sufficient  to  entitle  me  M.  D.  of  the  ship's  company,  and  hav- 
ing grown  wise  by  experience,  my  humble  advice  to  all  young- 
gentlemen  of  the  profession,  who  do  not  live  in  the  cabin  with  rec- 
ognized privileges,  and  whose  propensities  may  tempt  them  to  a 
more  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  cetacean  branch  of  compara- 
tive anatomy,  or  perhaps  mammalia  in  general,  is  to  conceal  every 
indication  of  their  craft,  and  to  look  indignant  at  the  smell  of 
drugs.  In  support  of  it,  let  me  cite  one  or  two  instances  of  the 
annoyances  to  which  I  was  frequently  subjected.  Perhaps  I  am 
seizing  a  "  Scotchman"  on  to  the  main  swifter,  and  am  just  engaged 
in  the  most  interesting  portion  of  it,  when  I  hear  a  prolonged  cry  of 
"  Doc-t-o-r,"  issuing  from  the  forecastle  like  the  smothered  cry  of 


24  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

a  victim  in  a  subterranean  dungeon.  "  Wanted  down  below 
there,"  echo  several  of  the  watch  on  deck.  On  such  occasions,  if 
I  had  an  irksome  job,  I  suited  my  convenience,  and  when  I  saw 
my  patient,  my  diagnosis  was  usually  brief.  If  an  ordinary  case, 
and  it  happened  to  occur  on  "duff  day,"  I  at  once  affirmed  that 
he  had  been  overloading  his  stomach  with  that  approximation  to 
pastry,  and  I  was  always  supported  in  my  opinion  by  some  half 
dozen  voices  issuing  from  the  blankets.  One  would  "  swear  that 
he  had  seen  him  eat  three  quarts  of  bean  soup  for  dinner  ;"  while 
another  composedly  declared  that  he  "  had  stolen  his  '  soft  tack' 
from  the  galley  while  he  was  standing  mast-head."  Half  a  dozen 
other  charges  would  be  preferred  against  the  victim,  while  I  pre- 
scribed, which  would  generally  be  Epsom  salts  and  warm  water, 
watching  carHilly  meanwhile  my  patient's  countenance  as  the 
surest  symptom  on  which  to  base  a  subsequent  diagnosis.  One 
would  hardly  credit  it,  but  during  the  cold  weather,  off  Cape  Horn, 
I  have  known  a  confirmed  phthisis  in  Folger,  together  with  gene- 
ral debility,  to  relapse  into  a  severe  headache  and  soon-get-better 
feeling,  which  miraculous  change  I  would  fain  attribute  to  my 
prescription,  approved  by  Mr.  Grasper  ;  and  that  was  a  pint  of  warm 
salts  and  water,  three  times  a  day,  and  after  the  first  day,  if  no 
relief  was  experienced,  a  black  bolus,  and  a  plaster  of  Spanish  flies 
to  the  pit  of  the  stomach.  On  these  occasions  Folger  would  give 
me  a  beseeching  look. 

Sometimes,  on  taking  my  position  at  mast-head,  I  would  lean  com- 
fortably upon  the  royal  yard,  and  instead  of  looking  out  ..for  either 
"blows"  or  "flukes,"  would  peer  down  from  my  eyrie  to  watch  the* 
mainfold  evolutions  on  deck.  While  listening  to  those  sounds 
that  afford  an  inspiriting  theme  for  statesmen,  the  noise  of  the 
cooper,  the  ringing  of  the  anvil,  and  the  carpenter's  hammer, 
and  indulging  a  pleasing  revery  on  the  comparative  qualities  of 
lions  and  eagles,  some  one  roars  out,  "  Old  Bill's  dying  with  the 
colic  !" 

"  On  deck,  there  !     Hang  Old  Bill  and  his  colic  !" 
"  Descend  from  that  crow's  nest,  you  leech,  and  administer  to 
the  wants   of  suffering  humanity,"  shouts    Mr.   Grasper  from   the 
quarter-deck. 


Daily  Occupations  on  Board  a  Whaler. 


Of  course  I  had  but  one  alternative,  and  while  complying  with 
the  requirement,  I  have  thought  that  had  humanity  ever  been  pro- 
perly classified,  I  should  have  been  puzzled  to  assign  to  "  Old  Bill" 
his  appropriate  genus. 


CHAPTER    II. 

ELUCIDATIONS  OF  THE  PRECEDING,  HAVING  REFERENCE  TO  NAUTICAL 

ECONOMY. 

THE  daily  routine  of  a  whaler  is  vastly  different  from  that  of  a 
merchantman.  In  connection  with  the  duties  of  tj^  latter,  there 
is  always  an  amount  of  necessary  work  on  hand  which  serves  as  a 
basis  for  extra  labor,  if  such  be  the  wish  of  the  officer  in  com- 
mand. After  six  months'  experience,  I  cannot  particularize  every 
odd  job,  but  this  I  recollect  most  distinctly,  that  the  old  forge  sent 
forth  its  blasts  as  regularly  as  that  of  a  village  blacksmith  ;  while 
the  cooper  had  exhausted  all  his  spare  material  before  doubling 
Cape  Horn.  I  have  seen  the  carpenter  throw  his  cap 'on  deck,  and 
his  hammer  into  the  lee  scuppers,  while  he  poured  forth  a  volley  of 
abuse  upon  every  one  who  burnt  oil.  The  boat-steerers,  too  ;  it 
seemed  that  they  would  never  rig  their  boats  to  suit  themselves  ; 
and  during  the  intervals  of  that  occupation  they  sharpened  their 
irons  (harpoons)  and  lances,  whose  number  constituted  a  formidable 
display  of  projectiles.  Between  boat-steerers  and  artificers  in 
wood  and  iron,  the  grindstone  was  made  to  perform  incessant  rev- 
olutions. The  foremost  hands  had  their  duties  to  accomplish,  and  I 
would  have  risked  the  rigging  of  the  Planet  in  competition  Avith 
that  of  any  other  whaler  that  floated.  She  was,  as  Chips  facetiously 
remarked,  "  a  floating  workshop  ;"  and  I  have  since  learned  that 
our  duties  were  not  so  much  from  necessity  as  from  the  skipper's 
solicitude  for  our  health,  he  having  satisfied  himself  by  long  ex- 
perience that  incessant  labor  was,  like  Irish  potatoes,  an  excellent 
antiscorbutic. 

The  most  serious   obstacle  the   recruits  had  to   encounter  was 


26  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

"learning  the  ropes."  Some  of  us,  realizing  that  it  must  be  done, 
applied  ourselves  to  the  task  until  we  had  mastered  it ;  but  there 
were  a  few  laggards  for  whom  the  rest  of  us  bore  no  sympathy, 
and  I  would  be  the  last  to  censure  an  officer  for  striking  manifesta- 
tions of  his  displeasure  towards  a  soger,  particularly  if  he  is  green. 
Mr.  Folger,  I  regret  to  say,  was  dilatory  in  his  acquirements,  and 
this,  together  with  other  circumstances,  resulted  in  his  becoming 
one  of  the  butts  of  the  company.  Two  weeks  passed  by,  and,  with 
others,  he  was  still  as  ignorant  of  the  names  of  some  of  the  most 
important  ropes  as  the  day  he  came  on  board  ;  it  therefore  became 
necessary  that  some  decisive  course  should  be  pursued  to  bring  the 
laggards  to  a  sense  of  their  duty.  Accordingly,  three  or  four  of 
them  were  called  aft,  where  they  were  informed  by  the  captain 
that  if  in  three  days  they  were  not  perfectly  familiar  with  the 
"  running  rigging,"  they  should  be  deprived  of  their  watch  below 
until  they  were.  At  the  expiration  of  the  appointed  time  the  cul- 
prits were  summoned  to  the  main  hatch,  where  the  examination 
took  place,  which  was  as  interesting  as  that  of  a  boarding-school, 
although  no  premiums  were  to  be  awarded.  The  captain  com- 
menced : — 

"  Folger.  I  want  you  to  show  me  the  main-topsail  sheets." 

Folger  thought  a  moment,  then  went  to  the  mainmast  and  laid  his 
hand  upon  them. 

"  Very  good,  sir.  Well,  now  I  want  you  to  tell  me  where  I  can 
find  the  fore-spencer  vangs." 

This  was  a  poser  ;  he  looked  aloft  despairingly  at  the  net-work 
of  black  and  white  ropes,  then  most  inquiringly  at  the  crew,  but  he 
was  rewarded  by  no  answering  hint ;  for  though  some  of  us  pitied 
him,  the  lynx-eye  of  Mr.  Grasper,  who  enjoyed  his  perplexity,  was 
watching  every  movement.  With  desperate  resolve,  he  went  for- 
ward, and  laid  his  hand  at  random  upon  the  top-gallant  bunt-line. 

"  There,  sir,  that'll  do  for  you.  Cook  !  the  next  time  you  make 
duff,  I  want  you  to  tie  that  man's  share  on  to  the  fore-spencer 
vangs.  Go  forward,  sir,  and  don't  you  dare  to  go  below  until  you've 
learned  what  I  told  you ;  it's  nothing  but  sheer  stupidity.  I'm 
afraid  I  shall  have  to  give  you  some  practical  lessons,  young  man, 
before  the  voyage  is  up.  Who  have  we  got  next  ?  What's  that 


Trainins  a  Greenhorn.  27 


man's  name  there  leaning  aginst  the  try-works,  with  his  hands  in 
gaskets  ?" 

"  That  ?  Why  that's  Weasle,"  said  Mr.  Grasper :  "  he's  always  got 
one  eye  clewed  up  and  the  other  sheeted  home." 

"  Come  up  here,  Weasle ;  hold  up  your  head  like  a  man,  and  take 
your  hands  out  of  your  pockets  ;  I  aint  going  to  strike  you,  I  only 
want  to  see  whether  you've  learned  the  lesson  I  gave  you ;  I  want 
every  man  to  do  his  duty,  and  all  share  alike." 

Weasle,  who  supposed  he  was  about  to  confront  some  sea  mon- 
ster, was  taken  rather  aback  at  the  captain's  friendly  address,  al- 
though he  did  not  entirely  recover  his  self-possession. 

"  Show  me  the  main-brace,"  said  Captain  Buck,  wishing  to  en- 
courage him  by  mentioning  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  ropes. 

Weasle  laid  his  hand  upon  it  very  promptly. 

"  Show  me  the  foretopsail  haulyards."  After  a  little  study,  this 
was  found. 

"  Now,  Weasle,  my  boy,  I  want  you  to  give  a  small  pull  on  the 
larboard  foretopsail  brace,  and  haul  taut  the  weather  bowline." 

Weasle's  head  dropped  as  suddenly  as  if  it  had  been  perforated 
by  a  bullet,  while  his  hands  mechanically  sought  the  before-men- 
tioned gaskets. 

"  Come,  sir,  start !" 

He  at  once  bolted  off  towards  the  starboard  quarter. 

"  Come  back,  here  ;  don't  you  know  the  difference  yet  between 
larboard  and  starboard  ?" 

"  Yes,  sir,"  drawled  Weasle :  "  starboard  means  the  weather  side,  I 
guess." 

"  The  hell  it  does  !"  roared  the  captain.  "  You  guess  !  Well,  / 
guess  that  starboard  means  right,  and  larboard  means  left ;  now  do 
you  know  ?" 

"  Yes,  sir." 

"  Well,  have  you  learned  the  difference  yet  between  a  duff-kid 
and  a  pot  of  lob-scouse  '?" 

"  I  don't  know,  sir,  but  I  guess  I  can." 

"  You  guess  you  can !  Well,  how  many  arms  do  you  guess  you've 
got  ?" 

"  Two." 


28  JReef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

"  Which  is  the  larboard  one  ?" 

Weasle  deliberately  poked  out  the  right  one. 

"  O  murder !"  exclaimed  the  captain,  whirling  about,  at  the  same 
time  laughing  contemptuously.  "  Was  I  ever  so  greenj  No,  I 
swear  I  wasn't.  For  heavens,  Mr.  Grasper,  take  charge  of  those 
sea-goats,  and  never  let  me  get  my  hands  upon  them  ;  if  I  do,  I 
shall  seize  them  up  to  the  mizzen  rigging  and  give  them  a  dozen 
every  morning  before  breakfast." 

I  once  heard  of  a  witty  skipper  who  sailed  from  port  with  an  un- 
usual complement  of  greenhorns,  and  encountering  rough  weather 
in  the  Gulf  Stream,  he  was  seriously  embarrassed,  owing  to  the  ig- 
norance of  his  recruits,  but  which  he  obviated  by  a  happy  thought. 
A  pack  of  cards  was  distributed  among  the  rigging  oftenest  in  re- 
quisition, and  each  card  properly  secured  to  a  rope  ;  if  a  squall  was 
approaching,  and  the  officer  of  the  watch  thought  it  necessary 
to  reduce  a  top-gallant-sail,  he  would  call  out  ""Stand  by  there, 
boys,  to  let  go  your  diamonds  and  haul  away  on  the  queen  of 
hearts." 

Having  touched  upon  the  subject,  it  would  perhaps  be  as  well  to 
mention  a  few  items  of  daily  routine,  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  any 
explanation  hereafter ;  but  as  this  is  not  intended  for  a  seaman's 
manual,  I  shall  spare  the  reader  the  old  story  of  "  seven  bells,"  and 
the  manner  of  "  splicing  the  main-brace."  The  crew  were  divided 
into  two  watches,  the  second  officer  heading  the  starboard,  and 
the  third  officer  the  larboard  watch,  alternately  relieving  each 
other  every  four  hours,  except  during  the  dog-watches,  when  it  was 
all  hands.  The  first  summons  to  duty  of  the  morning  watch  is, 
"  draw  water ;"  and  this  being  anything  but  a  favorite  pastime,  espe- 
cially in  cold  weather,  it  frequently  became  a  matter  of  dispute  as 
to  whose  turn  it  was  to  rig  and  man  the  whip,  and  sometimes  the 
discussion  grew  so  animated  that  the  interference  of  an  officer  was 
required. 

"  Come,  come,  what  argument's  that  going  on  ?  If  there's  any  dis- 
pute to  be  settled,  there's  where  I  live.  Bill,  you  and  Josh  rig  the 
whip,  and  be  quick  about  it ;  the  rest  of  you  fleet  aft,  and  get  your 
scrub-brooms." 

Such  was  the  observation  of  Mr.  Gurrie  one  morning,  when  Old 


A  Lame  Back — Applying  a  Plaster.  29 

Bill  replied  that  "  he'd  rather  be  relieved,  because  he'd  got  a  lame 
back,  and  the  doctor  was  going  to  give  him  a  plas " 

"  0,  to  the  devil  with  your  lame  back,  and  the  doctor,  too  !  If  I 
don't  see  that  whip  rigged  to  the  main  swifter  in  just  two  minutes 
and  a  half,  I'll  prepare  the  way  for  a  plaster  with  the  bight  of  the 
first  rope  I  can  lay  my  hands  on." 

The  whip  is  a  spar  about  twelve  feet  long,  with  a  shive-hole  at 
one  end  ;  through  this  is  rove  a  rope,  one  end  secured  to  a  large 
bucket,  while  the  other  is  free  for  hoisting.  The  spar  is  then  ele- 
vated a  few  feet  above  the  bulwarks,  and  fastened  to  the  main 
swifter,  with  one  of  the  ends  projecting  a  convenient  distance  over 
the  water,  and  the  other  resting  upon  deck.  If  the  bucket  is  small, 
the  job  of  drawing  is  not  very  disagreeable;  but  ours  was  as  large  as 
a  half  barrel,  and  the  weight,  so  disproportioned  to  purchase  and 
power,  rendered  it  one  of  the  most  impressive  illustrations  of  the 
pulley  I  ever  met  with.  Two  men  usually  perform  the  duty,  while 
one  sits  astride  of  the  rail  to  receive  the  buckets.  I  can  distinctly 
recollect  remonstrating  with  the  cooper  at  the  time  I  saw  him  ham- 
mering away  at  the  tub.  "  Can't  help  it,"  said  he  ;  "  must  obey 
orders." 

Our  scrub-brooms,  too,  are  worthy  of  consideration.  Manufactured 
by  sheath-knives  from  pickled  blocks  of  seasoned  oak,  they  possessed 
about  as  much  flexibility  as  could  be  expected,  and  their  action  upon 
the  pine  sheathing  I  can  compare  to  nothing  else  than  the  probable 
effect  of  rubbing  a  stiff  brush  briskly  over  a  bald  head. 

Scrubbing  finished,  trowsers  turned  down,  and  mast-heads  sta- 
tioned, we  turned  on  to  any  job  we  were  ordered  to,  until  seven  bells 
or  breakfast-time.  This  was  announced  to  us  by  the  captain's  say- 
ing, "  Give  'em  their  breakfast,  Mr.  Grasper." 

"  Aye,  aye,  sir.     Give  'em  their  breakfasts,  there,  cook." 

"  Aye,  aye,  sir.  Breakfast  for'a-r-d !"  which  is  echoed  by  sev- 
eral hungry  "  aye,  ayes  ;"  and  if  they  did  manifest  any  reluctance 
about  manning  the  whip,  their  alacrity  on  this  occasion  was  con- 
spicuous, for  several  volunteers  would  spring  to  their  feet,  express- 
ing a  willingness  to  carry  either  the  beef-kid  or  coffee-bucket. 

I  shall  not  attempt  to  describe  the  thousand  and  one  odd  jobs,  be- 
sides the  regular  work;  we  took  our  turns  at  mast-head,  which 


30  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

lasted  two  hours,  also  each  his  trick  at  the  wheel.  The  difference 
between  standing  look-out  at  the  main  and  foremast  heads  is  this  : 
the  boat-steerers  are  the  privileged  characters  in  the  first  instance, 
and  after  reaching  the  topmast  cross-trees,  they  have  a  "  Jacob's 
ladder"  by  which  they  can  ascend  to  the  "  crow's  nest"  direct,  and 
in  a  cross  sea  they  are  less  affected  by  the  motion  of  the  vessel 
than  we  of  the  fore,  where  at  times  we  were  compelled  to  give  the 
royal-mast  an  affectionate  embrace  with  both  arms,  and  not  urifre- 
quently  I  noticed  the  recurrence  of  nauseating  symptoms  to  the 
consternation  of  all  who  delight  in  clean  canvas.  This  post  was 
only  reached  by  "  shinning"  up  the  top-gallant  stays,  and  our  instruc- 
tions on  these  occasions  were  to  "  look  sharp  for  blows,  flukes,  or 
white  water,"  and  he  who  first  raised  a  whale  from  which  we  could 
secure  a  "  blanket  piece,"  should  be  rewarded  with  five  pounds  of 
"  Mrs.  G.  B.  Miller's  fine  cut,"  and  a  new  pair  of  duck  trowsers. 
Of  course,  with  so  brilliant  a  prize  in  perspective,  we  were  a  par- 
cel of  ambitious  competitors,  and  each  ascended  with  the  determina- 
tion of  raising  something,  at  least  a  breeze. 

Although  the  work,  as  a  general  rule,  ceased  after  four  o'clock,  the 
mast-heads  were  continued  until  sunset,  and  during  this  interval  we 
amused  ourselves  as  best  we  could  without  encroaching  on  the  rights 
of  privilege.  The  decks  having  been  swept  down,  and  the  tools  re- 
moved from  the  carpenter's  bench,  we  would  assemble  around  to 
listen  with  respectful  attention  to  the  opinions  of  the  boat-steerers 
as  to  the  probable  chances  and  result  of  the  voyage.  The  possible 
contingency  of  a  depreciation  in  the  value  of  oil,  was  discussed  with 
as  much  gravity  as  a  falling  off  from  the  last  quotation  of  stocks 
would  be  in  a  chamber  of  commerce.  Some  read,  some  danced, 
and  others  sung.  I  have  seen  our  Vulcan,  "  a  merry  wight,"  from 
Canada,  perched  upon  the  night-heads  and  roaring  away  with  might 
and  main  'at  an  old  French  ballad.  If  the  weather  was  fine,  John 
would  bring  his  Epitome  on  deck,  which  he  would  peruse  most 
seriously,  while  some  of  the  uninitiated  looked  upon  him  as  a  prod- 
igy— a  master  navigator  in  disguise.  O'Connor,  a  son  of  the 
Emerald  Isle,  and  a  fellow  of  fair  acquirements,  would  occasionally 
give  us  the  latest  steps  of  the  Polka,  while,  for  want  of  an  instrument, 
Chips  and  I  whistled  the  Carlotta  Grisi. 


An  Unwelcome  Visitor.  31 

From  this  outline  it  must  not  be  inferred  that  the  harmony  of  so- 
cial intercourse  continued  uninterrupted.  The  enjoyment  derived 
from  an  interchange  of  sentiment  or  favor  among  all  classes  might 
in  most  instances  be  traced  to  selfishness  rather  than  to  any  feeling 
of  personal  regard.  As  wolves  band  together  for  mutual  convenience, 
so  our  intercourse  with  each  other  was  characterized  by  a  smooth, 
deceptive  surface,  while  an  under-current  of  hidden  meaning- 
whirled  tumultuously  beneath,  and  thus  it  continued  until  subse- 
quent events  occurred  to  f  obscure  the  horizon  of  our  hopes  by 
gathering  clouds 


CHAPTER    III. 

A  GLIMPSE  AT  THE  SPIRIT-LAND. 

"  If  there  be  a  messenger  with  him,  an  interpreter,  one  among  a  thousand,  to  shew  unto  man 
his  uprightness."  

THERE  are  moments  in  life  when  the  wing  of  the  destroying 
angel  flits  between  us  and  the  sunshine  of  existence,  and  beneath  its 
dark  shadow  pleasures  fade  and  hope  withereth ;  and  when  with 
hearts  despairing  we  hear  the  last  sigh,  or  watch  the  last  throb  of 
departing  life,  we  feel  that  the  silver  cord  which  unites  us  to  earth 
has  been  loosened  and,  with  hope  and  fear  "  see  through  a  glass 
darkly" — into  eternity.  Again,  when  we  witness  the  final  struggle, 
we  no  longer  tremble,  but  contemplate  with  mingled  joy  and  sadness 
the  transit  of  the  soul  to  the  spirit-land  ;  looking  steadily  up  to  a 
glittering  edifice,  spiritual  or  ideal,  erected  by  faith  in  the  zenith  of 
human  hopes. 

It  was  a  Sabbath  morning,  and  the  sun  shone  with  unclouded 
splendor  upon  the  Atlantic,  where  the  trade-winds  blew  freshly, 
curling  many  a  wave  into  foam,  as  it  dashed  harmlessly  against  the 
dark  hull  of  the  Planet.  The  sounds  of  daily  labor  were  hushed  ; 
and  save  the  sighing  of  the  wind,  and  the  monotonous  plash  of  the 
waves,  as  we  glided  steadily  on  over  the  heaving  ocean — fitting  sym- 


32  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

bol  of  eternity — all  was  still ;  for  the  destroyer  was  there  to  thrust 
in  his  sickle  while  the  harvest  was  yet  ripe.  It  was  the  mysterious 
agent  whose  foot  is  upon  the  sea  as  well  as  upon  the  land  ;  who 
waves  his  dark  wand  over  the  fields  of  summer,  causing  them  to 
glow  for  a  moment  with  golden  hues  of  autumn,  only  to  perish  be- 
neath the  chill  mantle  of  winter. 

Little  Henry  was  a  native  of  Raratonga,  one  of  the  Friendly  Isles 
of  the  South  Pacific.  His  delicate  frame  was  not  proof  against  the 
hardship  and  exposure  incident  to  a  voyage  to  the  United  States  ; 
and  the  seeds  of  disease,  that  had  already  begun  to  germinate,  re- 
ceived a  genial  impulse  in  the  colder  climate  of  the  North :  that 
unsparing  emissary  of  death,  pulmonary  consumption,  had  already 
fastened  itself  upon  the  delicate  boy.  He  had  come  on  board  with 
a  faint  hope  of  once  more  beholding  his  sea-girt  home  ;  but  that 
fragile  form  was  destined  for  a  final  resting-place  in  the  blue  ocean, 
where,  though  storms  sweep  o'er  its  surface,  he  slumbers  securely, 
deep  in  its  still  bosom.  Day  by  day  he  ^continued  to  droop,  until  he 
could  no  longer  sit  upon  deck  to  enjoy  the  bright  sunshine,  or  watch 
the  wild  flight  of  the  sea-bird ;  and  he  Avas  carried  below  to  his 
state-room,  never  more  to  leave  it  in  life.  Whatever  the  ship  could 
afford  towards  mitigating  the  sufferings  of  the  dying  boy  was  freely 
bestowed,  and  through  the  brief  period  of  his  illness,  the  captain 
and  officers  were  unremitting  in  their  attentions  to  him.  I  was 
almost  constantly  at  his  bedside  ;  and  once,  when  nearly  overcome 
by  his  emotion,  he  gave  me  to  understand  that  he  had  a  mother  and 
sister  who  would  await  his  return.  I  have  seen  him  take  from  a 
small  bag,  which  he  usually  kept  near  him,  gifts  of  affection  for  his 
mother,  a  bunch  of  ribbons  and  beads  for  his  sister,  together  with  a 
few  trifling  presents  for  his  friends,  and  after  looking  at  them  sor- 
rowfully, replace  them  again  with  a  sigh,  while  the  tears  stole  down 
his  emaciated  cheeks. 

But  Henry  had  one  source  of  consolation  that  lighted  up  the 
shadow  of  death,  and  that  was  his  Bible  and  a  few  tracts  printed 
in  his  native  tongue  ;  when  he  was  not  reading,  they  were  always 
near  him.  In  them  he  found  a  soothing  balm  that  enabled  him  to 
endure  patiently  his  afflictions,  discovering,  as  he  drank  deeply  from 
the  fountain  of  living  waters,  new  sources  of  enjoyment,  spiritual  in 


Little  Henry — Death  and  Burial  at  Sea.  33 

their  nature.  I  verily  believe  that  no  death-bed  was  ever  hallowed 
with  brighter  inspirations  of  Christian  faith  than  was  that  of  this 
poor  boy.  Hope  was  to  him  a  beacon  that  grew  brighter  and  brighter 
as  he  neared  the  goal  of  his  aspirations,  and  he  spoke  with  cheer- 
fulness of  the  hour  when  it  should  please  his  heavenly  Father  to 
relieve  him  from  his  sufferings.  I  have  heard  his  feeble  voice  in 
prayer,  and,  although  to  me  in  an  unknown  tongue,  have  bowed  my 
head  with  reverence,  and  so  has  the  hardy  sailor  watching  at  his 
bedside  ;  for  it  was  solemn,  deeply  solemn :  it  was  the  low  con- 
verse of  a  spirit  with  its  Creator.  I  would  that  the  Christian 
and  skeptic  could  have  looked  upon  that  bed  of  death :  to  the  one, 
it  would  have  been  a  bright  example  of  faith  ;  to  the  other,  a  solemn 
warning. 

About  eight  o'clock,  the  steward  informed  me  that  Henry  was 
dying.  I  was  at  his  bedside  in  a  moment,  and  beheld  at  a  glance 
that  the  destroying  angel  was  there.  Though  speechless,  he  was 
sensible  of  my  approach.  His  Bible  was  by  his  side  ;  but  he  no 
longer  needed  its  consolations,  for  he  was  already  at  the  threshold 
of  that  house  his  faith  had  built.  Death  came  not  to  him  amid  the 
groves  of  his  native  isle,  where  the  drooping  plumes  of  the  palm 
rustle  in  the  breeze  like  the  whispered  converse  of  spirits,  and; 
where,  amid  the  harmonies  of  nature,  he. might  breathe  a  last  fare- 
well to  weeping  friends  ;  but  in  his  narrow  room,  where  the  rays 
of  light  through  the  cabin  window  shone  faintly  upon  the  bulkhead,, 
and  surrounded  by  hardy  seamen,  in  whose  feeling  hearts  his  suf- 
fering touched  a  chord  of  sympathizing  response.  I  sat  beside  him,, 
and,  raising  his  attenuated  arm,  watched  the  last  glimmering  of  life,, 
like  a  flame  expiring  in  its  socket,  until,  without  a  struggle  or  a 
groan,  his  soul  returned  to  Him  who  gave  it. 

The  captain  and  mate  were  both  deeply  affected,  more  especially 
the  former,  and  he  alluded  briefly  to  many  little  incidents  connected1 
with  Henry  during  his  sojourn  in  his  family.  He  had  frequently 
known  him  to  forsake  his  amusements  and  retire  to  his  chamber  to> 
pray.  When  informed  by  the  physician  that  he  could  never  again 
see  his  home,  he  wept  bitterly,  and  begged  so  earnestly  to  be  per- 
mitted to  accompany  the  captain  on  his  present  voyage,  that,  for; 
humanity's  sake,  he  could  not  refuse. 

3 


34  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

An  hour  having  elapsed,  preparations  were  made  for  the  sequel. 
His  hands  were  crossed  arid  fastened  together  with  spunyarn  ; 

"  No  useless  coffin  inclosed  his  breast," 

but  we  wrapped  him  in  his  blanket,  and  carried  him  on  deck  to  the 
carpenter's  bench,  where  the  crew  were  requested  to  take  a  final 
look  before  he  was  launched  into  the  deep.  The  body  was  then 
sewed  up  in  the  blankets,  together  with  a  quantity  of  ballast  at  the 
feet,  and  the  whole  securely  lashed.  The  gangway  was  unshipped, 
and  the  body  laid  upon  a  plank  in  such  a  position  that,  when 
inclined,  the  feet  should  strike  the  water  first.  The  captain  and 
first  and  second  officers  stood  just  abaft  the  gangway,  the  cooper  and 
boat-steerers  near  the  mainmast,  and  the  crew  were  assembled  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  gangway.  The  third  and  fourth  officers 
were  stationed  on  either  side  of  the  body,  and  all  was  now  ready  for 
•the  final  ceremony. 

"  Haul  back  the  mainyard !"  was  the  order. 

This  was  silently  obeyed,  and  gave  to  the  ship  a  stately  motion 
in  the  water.  The  captain,  who  was  too  much  agitated  to  officiate, 
requested  me  to  read  a  chapter  in  the  Testament,  there  being  no 
prayer-book  on  board.  I  selected  such  passages  as  I  thought  the 
most  appropriate  for  the  occasion,  and  read  them  «o  as  to  be  dis- 
tinctly heard  by  all  the  crew,  wishing,  although  with  but  little  hope, 
that  the  words  and  the  occasion  might  have  a  beneficial  effect  upon 
the  feelings  of  some  of  my  shipmates.  I  hoped  they  might  awaken 
a  few  sober  reflections  that  would  tend  to  harmonize  the  elements 
of  discord  that  to  a  certain  extent  opposed  a  barrier  to  our  social 
intercourse. 

The  service  being  ended,  there  was  a  moment  of  silence,  and 
I  do  not  believe  there  was  an  eye  present  unmoistened  by  a  tear. 

"  Let  go  there  !"  said  the  captain. 

The  two  officers  shoved  the  plank  a  few  feet  beyond  the  gangway, 
quickly  inclined  it,  and  the  body  slid  with  a  plunge  into  the  water. 

"  Brace  forward  the  mainyard  there,  Mr.  Grasper  !" 

"  Aye,  aye,  sir !"  and  as  the  ship  once  more  resumed  her  course, 
I  turned  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  a  fading  object  that,  deep  in  the  blue 
element,  was  melting  away  like  the  faint  trace  of  a  cloud. 


African  Isles.  35 


Four  years  subsequent  to  this  event,  I  sailed  through  the  Hervey 
group  by  moonlight,  and  saw  the  beautiful  isle  of  Raratonga  rise  like 
a  dark  knoll  from  the  water.  To  me  the  circumstance  was  of  pe- 
culiar interest,  for  with  it  I  associated  recollections  of  the  little  boy 
whose  home  was  once  here,  and  where  perhaps  at  that  moment  an 
anxious  mother  was  dreaming  of  an  absent  son.  How  often  has  she 
counted  the  breadfruit  harvests,  and  scanned  the  dim  horizon  for  the 
faint  glimmering  of  a  sail !  In  vain  has  the  sister  woven  garlands 
of  flowers  plucked  from  her  native  hills  for  her  truant  brother.  But 
grieve  not  for  him ;  holier  fingers  have  twined  for  him  chaplets  of 
amaranth,  where,  in  brighter  realms,  he  heeds  not  the  storm  that 
chants  a  requiem  o'er  the  troubled  ocean. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

RUSTICATIONS  AT   THE   CAPE   DE   VERDE S. 
I 

A  WEEK  passed  by,  and  with  favoring  gales  we  were  driven  from 
the  storms  of  a  northern  winter  to  the  sunny  South,  where,  a  month 
after  our  departure,  the  barren  peaks  of  St.  Nicholas  loomed  in  the 
horizon.  I  must  pass  hastily  over  any  reference  to  the  Cape  de 
Verde  Islands,  for  there  are  few  features  connected  with  them 
on  which  memory  dwells  with  pleasure.  Yet  I  envy  not  the  dis- 
position that  would  look  with  indifference  upon  the  conical  peak 
of  Fogo,  conspicuous  above  the  clouds,  its  sides  furrowed  by  many 
a  deep  channel,  where  the  fiery  torrent  has  rolled  down  to  do  battle 
with  the  element  that  surges  against  its  base.  Although  in  most  in- 
stances the  scenery  of  these  islands  was  cheerless  enough,  there 
were  picturesque  valleys,  where  the  sea-loving  cocoanut  rustled  in 
the  breeze,  and  the  golden  orange,  half  hidden  by  the  rich  foliage, 
sent  forth  a  grateful  perfume.  Here  at  times  streams  were  leap- 
ing from  crags  and  falling  in  cascades,  where  on  either  side  rose 
the  dark  volcanic  rocks,  giving  a  sombre  effect  to  the  scene  ; 


36  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

and  in  fancy  it  would  seem  that  in  this  green  valley  alone  rustled 
the  wide-spreading  banana,  while  all  beyond  was  solitude  and  deso- 
lation. 

The  geographical  position  of  these  islands,  lying  as  they  do  about 
four  hundred  miles  west  of  Cape  de  Verde  on  the  coast  of  Africa, 
renders  them  a  favorite  place  of  resort  for  outward-bound  whalers, 
where,  for  sea-biscuit,  prints,  and  domestic  goods,  they  can  purchase 
fresh  supplies  at  reasonable  rates.  They  are  a  dependency  of  Por- 
tugal, and,  as  might  be  supposed,  far  behind  the  age  in  intelligence 
and  civilization.  The  forbidding  appearance  of  the  country  may  be 
adduced  as  a  plea  for  its  present  condition  ;  a  sterile  soil,  intense 
heat,  continued  droughts,  and  the  rainy  and  attendant  sickly  season, 
are  serious  obstacles  in  the  way  of  advancement.  There  is,  how- 
ever, no  lack  of  government  officials,  whose  corrupt  politeness,  bor- 
dering on  servility,  but  ill  accords  with  the  courtesies  of  refinement. 
In  plain  words,  most  of  them  are  a  parcel  of  importunate  beggars, 
and  in  making  the  assertion,  I  am  supported  by  the  opinions  of 
nearly  all  who  have  held  intercourse  with  them.  I  will  here  men- 
tion a  circumstance  that  occurred,  as  an  illustration  of  this  leading 
characteristic. 

Our  captain  had  a  fine  Panama  hat  with  a  broad  brim,  an  ad- 
mirable protection  from  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun,  and  no  won- 
der it  excited  the  cupidity  of  some  of  the  official  lazzaroni.  It  was 
at  a  Custom-House  somewhere  on  the  island  of  St.  Nicholas  that 
the  collector  became  enamored  with  its  fair  proportions,  and  he 
begged  to  be  permitted  to  try  it  on.  He  then  very  nicely  adjusted 
his  own  chip-hat  upon  the  head  of  Captain  Buck,  and  called  upon 
the  attendant  officers  to  witness  the  improvement  the  exchange  had 
made  on  the  person  of  the  latter.  Their  opinions  perfectly  coin- 
cided with  his  own,  but  our  skipper  meanwhile  had  arrived  at  an 
opposite  conclusion,  and  the  chip-hat  was  returned  with  all  the 
politeness  he  was  master  of,  much  to  the  chagrin  of  the  swarthy 
Portuguese.  This,  however,  did  not  check  his  perseverance  ;  there 
was  a  circuitous  method  of  accomplishing  an  object  that  was  not  to 
be  attained  by  direct  means. 

In  due  season,  the  supplies  began  to  come  in ;  stalwart  negroes 
drove  diminutive  pigs  before  them  with  a  string  fastened  to  the  leg, 


Trick  on  the  Captain  by  an  Obsequious  Official.          37 

(a  custom  practised  in  every  portion  of  the  globe  where  pork  is  a 
staple) ;  coal-black  negresses  bearing  baskets  of  oranges  on  their 
heads,  and  little  urchins  skipping  down  the  pathway,  half  hidden  by 
bunches  of  bananas.  The  purchases  were  made,  and  the  captain's 
red  calico  made  an  ostentatious  display,  in  the  turban  form,  on  the 
head  of  some  portly  wench,  while  old  and  young  of  both  sexes  were 
crunching  voraciously  at  the  bolash  (bread).  Preparations  were  now 
made  for  departure,  and  dispatches  sent  out  for  the  stragglers,  some 
of  whom  were  discovered  drinking  aguadente  in  the  guard-room  with 
ragged  soldiers,  and  others  riding  donkeys  no  bigger  than  a  good- 
sized  Newfoundland,  much  to  the  diversion  of  the  natives.  The 
moment  being  opportune,  an  official,  wearing  the  royal  livery  with 
ventilated  elbows,  tipped  his  hat  politely  to  our  skipper,  and  begged 
the  honor  of  escorting  him  once  more  to  the  Custom-House.  He 
was  there  informed  by  the  collector,  in  a  most  affable  manner,  that 
the  systematic  course  adopted  by  the  government  of  Portugal  re- 
quired that  an  accurate  "  Outward  Manifest"  of  all  exports  be  made,  to 
be  submitted  to  the  Bureau  of  Internal  Commerce  for  statistical  pur- 
poses. This  required  a  blank  bearing  the  broad  stamp  of  the  Arms 
of  Portugal,  price  one  dollar.  Duplicate  blanks  of  "  Outward  Entry 
and  Permit"  were  also  required  to  be  filed  away  among  official 
documents,  besides  the  observance  of  minor  formalities,  which  would 
cause  delay,  anfl  increase  still  further  the  amount  he  had  already 
disbursed  for  the  benefit  of  the  royal  treasury.  Captain  Buck  re- 
monstrated, but  the  collector  was  inexorable,  and  things  were  in  a 
most  interesting  position,  when  the  latter  once  more  expressed  his 
surprise  that  an  American  captain  should  be  so  insensible  to  his  in- 
terests as  not  to  acquiesce  in  a  change  that  would  add  to  his  per- 
sonal appearance,  and  which  also  would  accord  with  the  tastes  of 
the  gentlemen  present.  Our  skipper  took  the  hint,  and  a  formal 
transfer  of  the  white  Panama  was  made  for  an  old  "  chip,"  that  was 
lost  during  the  first  gale.  The  subsequent  ratification,  consisting 
of  a  profusion  of  bows  and  compliments,  savored  strongly  of  "  There 
shall  be  perpetual  peace  and  amity  between,"  &c.;  and  the  captain, 
with  ill-concealed  chagrin,  was  escorted  from  the  premises,  while 
the  guard  did  him  the  honor  to  present  arms. 

I  had  not  the  pleasure  of  visiting  Porta  Praya,  the  principal  city 


38         ,  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

of  this  group,  and  situated  on  the  island  of  St.  Jago,  compensating 
in  some  respects  for  the  inferiority  of  the  towns  in  the  rural  districts. 
I  do  not  believe  that  the  town  to  which  I  have  first  alluded  contained 
a  house  that  could  boast  of  a  glass  window.  I  visited  a  dilapidated 
fort,  erected  in  a  commanding  position,  but  everything  bespoke  ruin 
and  decay.  The  coarse  grass  was  creeping  over  the  plastered  ram- 
parts, while  perhaps  a  dozen  guns  of  various  calibre  were  pointing 
their  rusty  muzzles  through  the  embrasures. 

After  procuring  such  supplies  as  we  could  at  St.  Nicholas,  we 
bore  away  for  St.  Jago,  the  principal  island  of  the  group,  and  which 
we  reached  the  next  morning.  Like  the  others,  it  was  a  commin- 
gling of  rugged  peaks  and  sterile  hills,  here  and  there  relieved  by 
sequestered  valleys  clothed  with  bright  verdure,  some  of  them  dotted 
by  neatly  whitewashed  houses,  half  concealed  by  the  foliage. 

It  was  at  one  of  the  rustic  villages  of  this  island  that  the  captain 
proposed  landing  the  morning  of  our  arrival,  and  on  this  occasion  also 
I  obtained  permission  to  go  in  the  boat,  where  I  was  sure  of  an  op- 
portunity of  tugging  at  the  oar,  under  a  broiling  sun.  I  should  have 
mentioned  before  that  I  was  not  attached  to  either  of  the  boats,  a 
circumstance  for  which  I  was  probably  indebted  to  an  accident  that 
occurred  to  me  the  morning  we  were  leaving  port ;  I  hope  the  reader 
will  pardon  me  for  introducing  it  at  the  present  time.  We  were 
"  fishing"  the  larboard  anchor  ;  some  eighteen  or  twenty  of  us  had 
clapped  on  to  the  fall,  and  were  hauling  away  to  the  tune  of 

"  O,  it's  an  Oldtown  skipper  and  a  Nantucket  mate  ;" 

the  huge  cat-block  was  toggled  aloft,  and  happening  to  be  directly 
beneath  it  when  the  decimation  took  place,  I  was  the  victim.  The 
larboard  port  was  triced  up,  and  Mr.  Short  was  on  his  hands  and 
knees  looking  out  to  superintend  his  share  of  the  business.  Sudden- 
ly the  toggle  gave  way,  and  down  came  the  block  upon  my  head  (not 
fairly),  and  glancing,  struck  Mr.  Short  full  in  the  rear  with  such  vio- 
lence that  he  made  a  headlong  plunge  through  the  port,  and  only  saved 
himself  from  falling  into  the  water  by  seizing  hold  of  the  anchor- 
fluke.  I  was  knocked  down  senseless,  and,  in  my  fall,  another  with 
me.  When  I  recovered,  I  was  on  the  quarter-deck,  covered  with 
blood,  and  supported  by  a  couple  of  shipmates,  while  the  captain  was 


The  Doctor  in  a  Quandary.  39 

trying  his  hand  at  surgery  on  two  or  three  ugly  gashes  upon  the  back 
of  my  head.  It  was  during  the  time  I  was  confined  to  my  bunk,  re- 
covering from  the  effects  of  the  blow,  that  the  watches  and  boat's 
crews  were  chosen ;  and  when  I  was  able  to  come  on  deck,  I  learned 
that  I  had  not  been  assigned  to  either  of  the  boats,  but  was  to  be  one  of 
the  reserve  which  remains  aboard  while  they  are  in  pursuit  of  whales. 

As  I  before  said,  I  obtained  permission  to  join  the  crew,  and  off 
we  started  in  the  starboard  boat,  the  waist  boat  keeping  company. 
In  due  season  we  were  laying  on  our  oars  just  outside  the  surf,  and 
looking  for  a  convenient  place  to  land.  Several  officious  ebony- 
colored  individuals  ran  along  the  beach,  and  with  loud  cries  and  ges.- 
ticulations  gave  us  to  understand  that  a  little  farther  on,  there  was  a 
cove  protected  from  the  swell  of  the  sea  by  jutting  rocks.  Our  boats 
were  soon  hauled  upon  the  beach,  abreast  of  the  town,  and  a  guard 
placed  around  each  to  prevent  accident  from  the  thieving  propensity 
of  the  natives.  The  captain  was  waited  upon  by  a  young  man  of 
prepossessing  appearance,  who  politely  informed  him  that  he  was 
chief  in  authority  at  this  place,  and  that  any  assistance  he  could  ren- 
der him  in  the  way  of  trafficking  would  be  cheerfully  tendered  ;  a 
civility  that  was  accepted,  and  an  amicable  understanding  at  once 
existed  between  them.  Almost  his  first  inquiry  was,  if  there  was  a 
doctor  aboard. 

The  captain  referred  him  to  me,  and  to  avoid  compromising  the 
Planet's  dignity,  I  confirmed  the  assertion,  mentally  wishing  drugs 
and  medicines  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea  ;  at  the  same  time,  passing 
rapidly  in  review  the  long  catalogue  of  ills  that  flesh  is  heir  to,  and 
wondering  what  I  should  do  if  it  happened  to  be  a  case  of  hysterics, 
my  "  vade  mecum"  and  hartshorn  being  absent. 

The  invalid  proved  to  be  an  African  female  slave,  suffering  from 
debility,  owing  to  a  recent  attack  of  fever.  I  left  some  simple  direc- 
tions, intending  to  call  again  the  next  day. 

The  courtesy  of  the  young  gentleman  did  not  cease  here  ;  he  in- 
vited us  to  accompany  him  to  his  house  a  short  distance  up  the  val- 
ley, a  request  with  which  we  cheerfully  complied.  It  was  a  snug 
little  tenement,  neatly  whitewashed  within  arid  without,  with  lattice 
blinds.  There  was  also  a  large  paved  court,  the  interior  of  which 
I  did  not  see  at  first.  We  were  ushered  into  a  plain  apartment 


40  Recf-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

where  his  lady  was  sitting,  and  that  interesting  ceremony,  an  in- 
terchange of  compliments,  where  neither  can  comprehend  the  other, 
was  inflicted  with  the  best  grace  possible.  Since  then  I  have  fre- 
quently wondered  whether  Senora  took  me  for  a  sample  of  Ameri- 
can doctors.  There  was  certainly  nothing  in  my  costume  sugges- 
tive of  sentiments  flattering  to  the  craft ;  for  on  that  occasion  I 
wore  a  pair  of  coarse  duck  trowsers,  a  blue  woollen  shirt,  and  a  sen- 
net hat ;  but  my  hostess  was  evidently  indifferent  to  secondary  con- 
siderations, and  her  winning  manner  established  a  familiarity  that 
was  foreign  to  embarrassment.  The  captain  and  his  newly-found 
quartermaster  soon  took  their  departure,  leaving  us  to  entertain  our- 
selves as  best  we  might.  The  apartment  was  plainly  furnished, 
and  the  walls,  as  is  usual  in  Catholic  countries,  were  decorated  with 
pictures  of  the  saints  and  scriptural  scenes,  but  there  was  an  air  of 
refreshing  coolness  about  it  that  was  delightful,  after  so  fatiguing  a 
pull.  Near  by  was  a  grove  of  o'range  trees,  with  the  golden  fruit 
peeping  put  from  the  luxuriant  foliage. 

There  were  several  African  female  slaves  in  attendance,  and  at  a 
word  from  my  entertainer,  one  of  them  left  the  room,  but  presently 
returned,  bearing  a  plate  of  large  oranges  just  plucked  from  the  tree, 
and,  kneeling  down,  presented  them  to  me."  This  was  an  act  of  ser- 
vility uncongenial  to  republican  feelings,  but  in  the  present  instance 
it  was  of  trifling  moment,  and  as  an  appreciation  of  Senora's  atten- 
tion, I  applied  myself  to  the  juicy  fruit,  she,  meanwhile,  looking  on 
very  complacently. 

I  hardly  knew  how  we  should  entertain  each  other,  but  accident- 
ally espying  a  guitar-case  under  the  table,  and  which  I  found  con- 
tained a  veritable  instrument,  at  my  request  she  favored  me  with 
several  national  airs.  Our  musical  soiree  having  terminated,  at  her 
invitation  I  accompanied  her  to  the  court  adjoining,  where  I  saw 
some  dozen  slaves* of  both  sexes  engaged  in  a  variety  of  occupa- 
tions, and  I  blushed  to  see  how  scantily  some  of  the  younger  females 
were  attired,  and  who  evinced  not  the  slightest  embarrassment  at 
our  approach,  but  chatted  as  familiarly  with  their  mistress  as  if  the 
sunshine  of  life  had  never  been  darkened  by  a  cloud. 

In  due  time  I  received  a  summons — Senora  expressed  her  regrets — 
the  last  adios  were  uttered,  and  we  parted. 


Cruising,  Of  41 


CHAPTER    V. 

SOME  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  "PLANET"  AND  HER  PROPENSITIES. 

ONCE  more  we  were  all  aboard,  pigs  squealing,  turkeys  gobbling, 
and  chanticleers  crowing ;  luscious  bananas  were  clustering  around 
the  stern,  and  hanging  as  ornamental  appendages  from  the  stays, 
while  oranges  and  cocoanuts  were  scattered  about  in  the  greatest 
profusion.  Good-bye  to  this  quarter  of  the  globe  :  when  next  we 
revel  upon  terra  firma,  it  will  be  somewhere  in  the  broad  Pacific. 
Every  stitch  of  muslin  the  old  "  Planet"  would  bear  was  crowded 
on  her,  for  we  had  no  time  to  lose  if  we  would  reach  the  northwest 
cruismg-ground  in  good  season,  where,  amid  the  fog,  we  were  to 
fight  "  polars"  and  "  bowheads"  in  the  icy  Arctic  and  stormy  seas 
of  Kamtschatka.  On  we  bounded,  the  old  "  Planet"  creaking  and 
groaning,  like  a  fretful  child,  at  the  additional  task  imposed  on 
her :  down  she  would  plunge  at  an  approaching  sea,  as  if  hastening 
to  the  shock,  and,  though  slightly  shuddering,  the  old  lady  always 
rose  gayly  above  it,  while  with  evident  satisfaction  she  tossed  a 
shower  of  brine  upon  her  time-worn  decks  as  she  dashed  recklessly 
on  to  meet  another. 

Like  the  fickle  sex,  the  "  Planet"  had  her  faults  ;  but  after  all, 
we  can  hardly  blame  her,  doomed  to  such  perpetual  servitude  as  she 
had  been  for  more  than  twenty  years,  cruising  for  the  sperm  whale 
in  tropical  seas,  and  again,  her  cordage  brittle  and  hoary  with  nor- 
thern frosts.  Dark  rumors  were  abroad  respecting  her,  concerning 
unearthly  sounds  and  supernatural  appearances  that  had  been  heard 
and  seen  during  a  storm,  suggesting  legends  of  haunted  tenements, 
for  her  decks  had  been  stained  with  the  blood  of  murder,  and  there 
was  no  seaman  on  board  who  would  have  dared  to  whistle  defiance 
when  the  storm-god  was  shrieking  through  her  cordage.  But  the 
worst  feature  in  her  eventful  history  occurred  during  her  previous 
voyage.  She  was  "  hove-to"  in  a  gale  in  the  Pacific  that  had  con- 
tinued for  several  days,  and  with  helm  lashed  "  a-lee,"  she  came  to, 
and  fell  off  with  so  much  precision  while  struggling  with  the  huge 


42  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

seas,  that  she  inspired  a  feeling  of  confidence  among  her  officers 
and  crew,  who  little  dreamed  of  the  frightful  change  that  was  so 
soon  to  come  over  them.  The  starboard  watch  had  the  deck  that 
morning ;  the  second  officer  was  at  the  carpenter's  bench,  and  the 
doctor,  cooper,  and  carpenter  were  in  the  stern  boat,  amusing  them- 
selves by  "  scrimshoning"  (designing  upon)  whalebone.  Suddenly, 
a  mountain-wave  rose  high  above  the  bulwarks  and  descended  like 
an  avalanche  upon  her  deck,  carrying  all  before  it,  and  sweeping 
seven  souls  into  eternity,  who,  but  a  moment  before,  were  as  con- 
scious of  security  as  if  dwelling  in  their  far-off  homes.  The  second 
officer  was  transfixed  by  a  spar  that  was  torn  from  its  lashing.  Of 
those  in  the  stern  boat,  the  doctor  was  never  afterwards  seen,  but 
the  cooper  and  carpenter  struggled  for  a  long  time  ;  arid  although 
their  voices  were  unheard,  they  could  be  seen,  with  outstretched 
arms,  as  they  rose  on  the  crest  of  a  wave.  Bulwarks  and  stanchions 
were  carried  away;. the  comings  of  the  main-hatch  started,  main 
and  mizen  masts  went  by  the  board,  and  every  boat  on  the  cranes, 
together  with  the  spare  ones  overhead,  were  stoven :  in  short,  the 
"  Planet"  was  a  wreck. 

I  recollect  an  instance  of  her  taking  us  by  surprise.  We  Rad 
been  "  hove-to"  for  three  or  four  days  off  the  river  "  Plate,"  (Rio  de  la 
Plata,)  and  the  weather  being  cold  withal,  we  had  huddled  together 
under  the  lee-side  of  the  house,  and  a  number  of  heads  were  crouched 
behind  the  stiff  collars  of  monkey-jackets  for  protection.  Suddenly 
she  shipped  a  sea  that,  carrying  away  the  gangway,  came  rolling  aft 
like  a  flood.  As  might  be  supposed,  there  was  a  general  scrambling; 
some  sprang  for  the  stern  boat,  while  others  bolted  for  the  rigging, 
and  I  never  witnessed  more  agility  in  a  gymnasium  than  was  dis- 
played by  Folger  on  that  occasion ;  for  at  a  bound  he  cleared  the 
bulwarks  and  was  in  the  lee  mizen  rigging,  up  which  he  scampered 
until  he  reached  the  futtock  shrouds.  A  hogshead  of  water  was 
poured  down  the  steerage,  while  the  lee  state-rooms  were  afloat. 
After  a  brief  interval,  we  saw  the  bald  head  of  old  John  protruding 
itself  above  the  scuttle,  his  tout  ensemble  having  the  appearance  of 
being  completely  drenched,  and,  all  things  considered,  he  looked 
like  an  apparition  of  Neptune  rebuking  the  storm.  The  illusion  was 
in  nowise  dispelled  by  his  subsequent  proceedings,  for  as  soon  as  he 


Premonitions  of  Rigid  Discipline.  43 

could  open  his  mouth,  he  poured  forth  a  volley  of  curses  in  choice 
Celtic,  first  upon  the  winds,  then  upon  the  waves,  and  lastly  upon  the 
ship,  swearing  that  if  "  he  had  got  to  be  drowned,  it  should  never 
be  below  hatches." 

A  week  had  passed  since  we  saw  the  gray  peaks  of  St.  Jago 
sink  beneath  the  horizon ;  and  was  it  fancy  or  not,  but  our  com- 
mander seemed  to  pace  the  quarter-deck  with  a  firmer  tread 
than  before  ;  orders  were  more  frequent,  and  rigidly  enforced.  We 
hoped  it  was  an  illusion,  but  too  soon  it  became  a  reality,  for  daily  the 
gulf  of  distinction  impassable  grew  deeper  and  broader,  until  the 
perspective  of  our  future  lot  looked  vague  and  uncertain.  Each  had 
recourse  to  his  own  philosophy;  wisely  destroying  the  few  relics  of 
civilization  I  still  retained,  1  plunged  at  once  into  the  mysteries  of 
the  slop-chest  and  attired  myself  in  its  coarse  woollen  garments — no 
guernsey  frocks,  for  I  detest  them ;  and  my  monkey-jacket  and  short- 
six  proved  my  best  companions  during  the  voyage. 

An  incident  occurred  one  Sunday  morning  which  served  to  im- 
press us  forcibly  that  discipline  would  be  strictly  maintained.  As 
for  me,  I  was  mute  with  astonishment,  for  it  was  the  first  affair  of 
the.  kind  I  had  ever  witnessed  ;  but  during  subsequent  rovings,  I 
have  learned  to  look  upon  a  denouement  of  this  nature  as  a  before- 
breakfast  amusement. 

"  Mr.  Short,"  said  Captain  Buck  as  he  came  on  deck,  "  who  were 
those  men  in  your  watch  you  found  sleeping  last  night  ?" 

"  Old  Bill  and  War'ick,  sir." 

Here  was  a  firebrand  thrown  among  tis.  We  were  as  merry  a 
group  as  could  be  around  the  windlass  :  some  reading,  some  mend- 
ing, and  others  raising  the  wind  generally.  Bill  himself  was  as- 
tonishing me  with  an  instance  of  his  personal  prowess  in  the  China 
seas,  when,  on  board  of  an  opium  clipper,  the  officers  and  crew 
kept  at  bay  two  armed  junks.  On  this  occasion  he  had  himself 
vanquished  seven  men,  and  was  already  speaking  of  a  tall  fellow, 
with  a  long  lance  and  hat  as  formidable  as  Mambrino's  helmet,  when 
he  heard  his  name  pronounced  by  Mr.  Short,  and  suddenly  breaking 
off,  remarked,  "  Now,  bullies,  you  are  going  to  see  some  fun  ;"  and 
so  the  sequel  proved,  for  Bill's  opinion  perfectly  coinciding  with  that 
of  Captain  Buck,  no  one  was  disappointed. 


44  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

"  Order  Bill  aft !"  continued  the  captain. 

"  Fleet  aft,  there,  Bill !" 

"  Billy,  love,  you  won't  tell  of  me  ?"  whispered  a  quizzing  individual, 
trying  to  look  affectionate. 

"  I'll  bet  my  lay  against  any  other  man's  in  the  ship,  that  that 
soger  fights  rats  in  the  run  before  night,"  said  another. 

William  moved  aft  with  a  sort  of  devil-may-care  air,  until  he 
reached  the  line  of  demarkation,  the  galley,  when  he  was  checked 
by  the  command  of,  "  Stand  where  you  are!"  The  captain  advanced. 

"  Then  you  are  the  d d  soger  that  slept  on  watch  last  night, 

are  you  ?" 

"  I  laid  down  a  little  while  towards  morning,  sir,  but  there  was  a 
good  look-out  stationed  all  the  time  between  the  night-heads,  sir." 

"  Suppose  there  were  a  hundred  look-outs  between  the  night- 
heads,  does  that  give  you  any  right  to  disobey  orders  ?  My  orders 
are,  that  no  man  shall  sleep  on  watch.  I'd  a  mind,  when  I  first  be- 
gan, to  make  an  example  of  you  ;  but  bear  it  in  mind,  that  if  I  ever 
catch  you  at  it  again,  I'll  knock  seven  bells  out  of  you  !  Go  'long  ; 
I've  done  with  you." 

"  But  I  was  tired  ;  besides,  the  law  allows  seamen  so  many  hours 
rest." 

"  What !"  exclaimed  the  captain,  almost  stupefied  with  astonish- 
ment, "  dare  you  talk  to  me  about  law  ?  Go  forward,  sir,  this  in- 
stant." 

Unfortunately  for  Bill,  his  propensity  for  "  fun"  left  him  standing 
irresolute,  but  in  a  moment  a  huge  fist  laid  him  sprawling  in  the  lee 
scuppers,  and  the  next,  the  hands  of  Mr.  Grasper  as  he  knelt  upon 
his  breast,  compressed  his  throat  like  a  vice,  until  the  extremity  of 
William's  nose  changed  from  a  rich  vermilion  to  a  beautiful  plum 
color. 

"  Fetch  on  the  bracelets  here,  some  one,"  shouted  Mr.  Grasper ; 
"  we've  found  a  live  sea-lawyer,  and  the  cap'n's  just  got  out  a  writ 
of  habeas  corpus" 

Bill  was  speedily  ironed,  and  escorted  below  by  two  or  three  offi- 
cers, while  one  of  the  boys  seated  upon  the  heel  of  the  bowsprit  was 
carelessly  humming  the  rogue's  march.  He  was  confined  in  the  run, 
on  low  diet,  for  the  three  days  following. 


A  Live  Sea-Lawyer.  45 

Our  skipper  had  just  got  his  hand  in. 

"  You,  War'ick  !     Come  here  !" 

"  Alas  !  poor  Yorick  !"  as  Chips  used  to  exclaim  with  a  tragic  air  ; 
he  was  as  verdant  as  the  meadows  where  he  pastured  his  cows. 
I  don't  wonder  he  saw  no  harm,  when  night  came,  in  stealing  a  little 
rest  upon  the  hard  planks.  It  might  be  truly  said  that  he  rose  with 
fear  and  trembling  to  comply  with  what  sounded  to  him  like  a  death- 
warrant  ;  and  he  moved  slowly  aft,  sliding  his  hand  along  the  bul- 
warks for  support. 

"  Did  you  sleep  on  watch  last  night,  War'ick  ?"  commenced  his 
interrogator,  with  a  most  annihilating  scowl. 

"  Yes,  sir  ;  but  I  got  up  as  soon  as  Mr.  Short  told  me  to  " 

"  Didn't  you  know  it  was  against  orders  ?" 

"  Yes,  sir  ;  but  some  of  the  sailors  told  me  it  wouldn't  make  any 
odds,  as  long  as  the  folks  in  the  cabin  didn't  find  it  out." 

I  thought  I  could  distinguish  an  expansion  of  the  captain's  left 
cheek,  as  though  his  tongue  was  there. 

"  Suppose,  sir,  I  should  have  you  heavily  ironed,  and  kept  in  the 
run  a  week  on  a  pint  of  water  and  three  biscuits  a  day  ?" 

No  reply,  but  the  culprit  shivered  visibly. 

"  Well,  I'll  let  you  off  this  time  ;  one's  enough  for  to-day,  but  look 
out  for  the  next.  March  !" 

I  have  anticipated  a  hundred  times  the  cogitations  of  an  old  Jack 
when  he  is  accommodated  with  lodgings  in  the  "  run."  Does  he 
console  himself  with  thoughts  of  vengeance,  or  by  rummaging  around 
with  his  hands  in  bracelets  after  the  raisin  keg  ?  Day  after  day  he 
is  doomed  to  hear  the  clatter  of  dishes  overhead,  while  his  fertile  ima- 
gination conjures  up  visions  of  barbacued  pigs,  bean  soups,  and  smok- 
ing duff.  Hardly  a  ray  of  light  can  penetrate  through  the  trap  to 
his  submarine  dungeon,  and,  solitary  and  disconsolate,  he  stows  him- 
self away  among  sundry  boxes  of  "  small  stores"  and  harpoons  in  re- 
serve. Nevertheless,  he  has  several  very  consoling  reflections  :  al- 
though he  may  be  somewhat  annoyed  by  the  rats,  he  is  spared  that 
interesting  pastime  of  scrubbing  deck  ;  and  if  a  faint  sound  of  grating 
and  plashing  may  sometimes  reach  him,  it  comes  only  as  a  vision 
of  some  far-off  evil,  from  which  he  is  perfectly  secure  ;  he  can 
laugh  at  the  recollection  of  that  ominous  summons,  "  draw  water." 


46  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

In  obedience  to  an  order,  I  was  one  day  rummaging  about  one  of 
the  cabin  lockers  for  something,  when  the  steward  raised  the  trap  to 
give  the  prisoner  his  daily  allowance.  I  stole  a  glance  into  the  dark 
vault,  from  which  arose  a  sickening  odor  of  bilge-water,  and  it  was 
some  time  before  the  obscurity  of  the  place  would  admit  of  my  see- 
ing a  shadowy  outline  perched  upon  a  box  at  the  further  extremity, 
with  its  fettered  hands  clasped  complacently  before  it,  and  both  its 
feet  braced  resolutely  against  a  sampson-post,  to  preserve  an  equili- 
brium. There  he  sat,  patient  and  resigned,  like  every  politician  who 
has  been  deserted  by  his  constituents — a  martyr  to  privileged  intoler- 
ance, owing  to  liberal  sentiments  he  sought  to  disseminate  among  his 
less  aspiring  shipmates.  Bill's  was  emphatically  a  case  of  "  prin- 
ciple versus  privilege." 


CHAPTER     VI. 

GAUL  AND  HIBERNIA. 

DURING  the  checkered  course  of  existence,  we  occasionally  meet 
with  happy  dispositions  too  wavering  to  incline  them  to  any  fixed 
notions  of  enjoyment,  and  with  whom  the  asperities  of  life,  by 
grinding  and  polishing,  or,  in  the  present  instance,  by  familiarizing 
themselves  with  them,  may  be  made  to  harmonize  with  each  other, 
and  who,  by  easily  conforming  to  whatever  position  fortune  has 
assigned  them,  jog  happily  along  in  shadow  and  sunshine. 

Our  little  community  was  blessed  with  a  few  such  anomalies, 
whose  happy  temperament  was  ruffled  by  neither  scowls  nor  duty,  and 
it  was  always  a  pleasure  to  observe  their  smiling  faces  and  sponta- 
neous efforts.  I  do  not  mean  to  say  they  were  more  industrious 
than  others,  but  that  they  performed  their  duties  to  the  best  of  their 
ability,  and  praise  and  reprimand  were  received  alike  with  indiffer- 
ence. They  were  active  and  willing,  and,  as  such,  merited  and 
received  to  a  certain  extent  the  approbation  of  their  officers. 

Most    conspicuous    among  these    was    our  Vulcan,  a    Canadian 


A  Fickle  Lover.  47 


Frenchman  from  Montreal,  a  young  man  of  perhaps  five-and-twenty, 
and  who,  when  he  first  came  among  us,  spoke  not  a  word  of  Eng- 
lish, but  in  which,  before  six  months  had  passed,  he  was  toler- 
ably proficient.  Nearly  every  day,  when  the  weather  would  per- 
mit, his  anvil  rang  out  as  merrily  as  it  did  on  the  banks  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  and  he  was  ever  disposed  to  render  a  service  to  a  ship- 
mate, for  he  was  a  favorite  with  all.  However,  he  was  not  exempt 
from  the  more  arduous  duties  incident  to  his  new  profession ;  but  in 
storm  or  calm,  alow  or  aloft,  his  merry  song  was  sung  as  cheerfully 
as  ever.  He,  for  one,  escaped  contention  and  abuse,  and  though 
glad  he  was  with  us,  I  could  not  but  regret  on  hi&  account  the  acci- 
dent to  which  we  were  indebted.  He  had  come  from  Canada  with 
his  brother,  both  designing  to  seek  employment  in  the  United  States, 
but  missing  the  route  of  their  proposed  destination,  they  found  them- 
selves at  one  of  our  seaport  towns,  where  some  prowling  land-shark, 
by  holding  out  brilliant  inducements,  set  at  naught  the  resolution 
of  the  unsophisticated  Gauls,  and  in  perhaps  an  evil  hour,  they  were 
persuaded  to  ship.  But  here  a  sad  mistake  occurred,  either  through 
their  ignorance  of  our  language  or  the  selfishness  of  the  owners,  for 
they  were  both  assigned  to  different  ships,  fitted  out  for  at  least 
three  years'  cruises — the  one  a  sperm  whaler  bound  for  the  Indian 
Ocean,  and  the  other  a  right  whaler  destined  for  the  Pacific.  Pro- 
testations were  unavailing ;  and  their  only  satisfaction,  while  both 
vessels  were  anchored  in  the  .bay  preparatory  to  sailing,  was  for  each 
to  recognize  the  other  from  opposite  bulwarks,  for  all  visiting  was 
prohibited.  Like  others  among  his  shipmates,  he  had  experienced 
the  tender  pagsion,  and  a  certain  jeune  file  had  wept  at  his  de- 
parture. But  change  of  scene  and  occupation  often  accomplish 
wonders,  and  before  we  had  reached  our  port  of  destination  he 
spoke  of  his  courtship  with  indifference.  What  volumes  might  be 
written  on  the  inconstancy  of  man !  Two  years  afterwards,  amid  the 
noise  and  bustle  of  Commercial  Wharf  in  San  Francisco,  I  was  rec- 
ognized and  accosted  by  an  old  shipmate,  who  revived  many  a 
reminiscence  I  had  consigned  to  oblivion.  I  inquired  particularly 
after  the  Frenchman,  whose  name  I  have  forgotten,  and  learned 
that  he  had  cruised  awhile  amid  Arctic  fogs,  and  chased  the  sperm 
whale  within  the  tropics,  and  finally,  when  the  shio  had  touched  at 


48  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

New  Zealand  for  supplies,  he  effected  his  escape,  became  enamored, 
and  married  one  of  the  dark  Mowree  girls. 

There  was  another,  too,  whose  humorous  face  should  not  be  forgotten, 
and  this  was  Bill,  the  Irish  steerage  boy.  Stationed  as  he  was  between 
two  fires,  the  steerage  and  the  forecastle,  cuffed  and  growled  at  by  the 
occupants  of  one  to  extinguish  any  embryo  notions  of  ambition  he 
might  entertain,  and  formally  driven  forth  as  a  deserter  whenever  he 
trespassed  within  the  barrier  of  the  other,  he  retained  his  equanimity 
in  a  remarkable  degree,  though  occasionally  varied  by  a  spirit  of 
opposition.  I  remember  on  one  occasion  Bill's  being  caught  napping. 
We  were  somewhere  in  the  South  Atlantic  ;  the  middle  watch  had 
the  deck,  and  a  more  lovely  moonlight  never  shone  upon  the  slumber 
of  a  weary  seaman.  Bill  had  in  some  respects  judiciously  chosen 
his  position,  certainly  as  regards  convenience,  for,  seated  upon  the 
windlass,  with  his  monkey-jacket  beneath  him,  he  leaned  pleasantly 
back  against  the  iron  brake,  with  both  his  arms  extended  upon  it ; 
on  the  other  hand,  it  was  too  exposed  for  him  to  escape  detec- 
tion should  the  officer  of  the  watch  come  forward,  but  provided  he 
confined  his  beat  to  the  quarter-deck,  the  tryworks  afforded  a  safe 
protection  in  the  rear.  That  night,  however,  Mr.  Short  took  it  into 
his  head  to  visit  us,  and  his  lynx-eye  immediately  discovered  the  de- 
linquent. He  went  around  in  front  to  obtain  a  better  view,  but  Bill's 
was  a  bona  fide  sleep,  and  the  stern  gaze  of  the  officer  was  unheeded. 
Whatever  punishment  Mr.  Short  meditated  inflicting,  none  of  us 
knew.  After  a  momentary  contemplation,  a  thought  suddenly  oc- 
curred to  him  which  relaxed  his  features  into  something  like  a  smile, 
and  holding  up  his  finger  for  us  to  be  silent,  he  walked  aft  on  tip- 
toe, and  presently  returned  with  a  quantity  of  soot  from  the  binacle. 

First  of  all,  some  spun-yarn  v/as  provided,  arid  his  extended 
arms  secured  in  the  position  they  had  naturally  taken,  then  his  feet 
were  fastened  to  the  windlass,  and,  strange  to  say,  the  sleeper  was 
unconscious  of  the  joke  that  was  being  perpetrated  upon  him.  And 
now  commenced  a  series  of  delineations  upon  his  round  and  ruddy 
face.  First,  a  formidable  pair  of  eyebrows  that  nearly  met,  and  a 
streak  down  the  nose,  gave  him  a.  ferocious  appearance  ;  next,  a  pair 
of  fine  curling  mustachios,  and  two  curved  lines  extending  from 
either  cheek-bone  to  the  chin,  somewhat  relaxed  the  severity  of  ex- 


A  Ludicrous  Procedure.  49 

pression.  The  taste  of  the  artist  then  took  a  different  turn,  and  by 
delicate  touches  the  whole  field  was  covered  with  quadrants,  semi- 
circles, and  various  geometrical  problems,  giving  him  the  most  far- 
cical appearance  conceivable.  I  have  since  seen  many  a  tattooed 
savage  in  the  South  Seas,  but  Bill  eclipsed  them  all.  The  tempta- 
tion to  laugh  was  too  strong  for  human  nature  to  look  upon  with  in- 
difference, and  the  suppressed  titter  that  was  first  heard  when  Mr. 
Short  commenced  his  sketch,  had  gradually  increased,  and  by  the 
time  the  finishing  touch  was  given,  nothing  but  peals  of  laughter  was 
heard  from  all  on  deck.  I  laugh  when  I  think  of  it ;  and  Bill  awoke, 
and  thinking  himself  merely  fettered,  laughed  too,  making  his  posi- 
tion more  ludicrous  than  ever.  The  moon  shone  brightly,  and  his 
white  teeth  glistened  in  broad  contrast  to  his  sooty  face.  But  the 
worst  of  it  was  not  yet  over  for  poor  Bill. 

"  Draw  me  a  bucket  of  water,  there,  one  of  you." 
The  brine  was  forthcoming,  and  Mr.  Short  elevating  the  bucket, 
poured  its  contents  over  the  head  of  his  now  gasping  victim  ;  after 
this  he  was  cut  adrift,  when  he  sought  refuge  in  the  steerage  by  the 
speediest  route  possible. 

And  so  we  jogged  along,  days  and  weeks  passing  rapidly  away, 
while  we  busied  ourselves  with  the  daily  routine  of  ship  duty.  Every 
little  incident  that  occurred  to  relieve  the  monotony,  had  to  us  its  pe- 
culiar interest ;  even  the  phenomenon  of  a  shooting  star,  during 
the  silent  watches  of  the  night,  would  call  forth  an  observation. 
When  the  bright  gems  of  Ursa  Major  were  no  longer  visible  above 
the  horizon,  we  felt  that  the  last  link  that  united  us  to  home  had  been 
severed,  but  amid  the  constellations  that  spangled  a  new  firmament, 
we  traced  out  that  enduring  symbol  of  faith,  the  Southern  Cross. 

4 


50  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

CHAPTER    VII. 

% 

SOMETHING  MORE  ABOUT  MR.  GRASPER, 

THE  increasing  coolness  of  the  atmosphere  betokened' our  approach 
to  higher  latitudes,  and  when  off  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  we  received 
the  usual  quota  of  squalls  and  rough  weather  ;  but  we  were  now  bet- 
ter prepared  for  the  encounter,  for  our  crew  had  by  this  time  become 
wonderfully  metamorphosed  into  old  salts,  at  least  as  pertained  to 
externals  ;  most  of  them  during  leisure  moments  having  experimented 
upon  the  wardrobe  of  the  slop-chest. 

I  should  perhaps  have  mentioned  before  that  our  stations  at  mast- 
head had  riot  been  idle,  and  frequently  we  were  startled  from  our  oc- 
cupations by  the  clear,  sonorous  words,  "  Ah  !  b-1-o-w-s  !"  After  the 
usual  questions  and  responses,  boats  were  lowered,  but  all  in  vain, 
their  whaleships  being  evidently  aware  of  the  proximity  of  cold  iron, 
and  after  spouting  defiance  a  few  times,  scampered  off  to  wind- 
ward, while  our  oily  anticipations  vanished  as  smoothly  as  the  com- 
modity itself. 

An  incident  that  occurred  in  these  latitudes  is  worth  noticing,  not 
on  account  of  any  extraordinary  danger  connected  with  it,  but  as  being 
of  frequent  occurrence  to  those  engaged  in  this  profession.  About 
the  middle  of  the  forenoon,  a  school  of  whales  was  "  raised;''  the  main- 
yard  was  promptly  laid  aback,  boats  were  lowered  and'  off  in  pursuit. 
The  chase  somehow  or  other  got  an  inkling  of  the  matter,  and  led 
off  to  windward  in  fine  style,  the  boats  following  as  fast  as  their 
sturdy  oarsmen  could  propel  them,  until  by  the  aid  of  the  glass 
neither  whales  nor  boats  were  visible.  There  were  but  six  of  us 
remaining  aboard,  and  if  I  except  the  cooper,  who  acted  as  ship- 
keeper,  but  who  was  too  infirm  to  render  any  active  service  in  case 
of  emergency,  there  was  but  one  able  seaman  remaining.  The 
weather  was  unusually  fine,  and  so  long  as  it  continued,  no  one  was 
apprehensive  of  danger  ;  we  could  now  range  the  deck  fore  and  aft 
without  control,  and  some  were  even  bold  enough  to  watch  their  oppor- 
tunity and  venture  into  the  cabin,  from  which  I  afterwards  saw  two  or 


A  Squall,  and  its  Consequences.  51 

three  foraging  parties  returning  with  spoils  of  "  soft  tack"  and  ginger- 
bread. 

Just  after  noon,  we  descried  a  dark  cloud  rising  rapidly  in  the 
horizon.  All  who  have  sailed  in  these  latitudes  know  how  sur- 
prisingly quick  a  squall  will  arise  and  overtake  a  vessel ;  in  this 
instance,  we  had  barely  time  to  let  fly  our  top-gallant  and  flying-jib 
halliards,  for  we  were  working  to  windward,  before  it  was  upon  us. 
We  had  but  one  alternative — to  up  helm  and  let  her  drive  until  we 
could  reduce  sail,  for  we  could  only  let  go  and  clew-up.  I  never 
saw  braces  work  so  hard  as  on  that  occasion,  for  it  required  our 
utmost  efforts  to  give  the  main  yard  a  cant.  The  rain  fell  in  torrents, 
and  beat  with  such  fury,  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to  look  to 
windward,  and  we  must  have  scudded  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes  be- 
fore we  could  bring  the  ship  to  the  wind.  The  old  cooper  was  almost 
beside  himself  with  anxiety,  for  the  responsibility  devolved  upon  him. 
During  the  squall,  I  recollect  seeing  him  stumble  forward,  frantic 
with  excitement,  to  execute  an  order  he  had  just  issued,  to  haul 
down  the  flying-jib,  which  was  now  fluttering  in  ribbons  from  the 
stay.  By  some  mistake,  he  seized  hold  of  the  sheet  instead  of  the 
downhaul,  which -he  could  hold  just  as  easily  as  he  could  lead  a  mad 
bull  by  the  horns.  At  every  jerk,  I  expected  to  see  the  poor  man's 
head  fly  from  his  shoulders,  but  still  he  clung  to  it  with  the  tenacity 
of  despair,  though  momentarily  threatened  with  dislocation ;  and 
several  times  I  heard  him  exclaim  distractedly,  "  God  help  us  !  The 
old  man  '11  think  I'm  running  away  from  him." 

In  about  half  an  hour  the  squall  had  blown  over,  and  as  soon  as 
the  atmosphere  had  become  sufficiently  clear,  we  discerned  some- 
thing like  a  speck  upon  the  water  to  windward,  which  proved  to  be 
one  of  the  boats  ;  in  due  season  the  others  hove  in  sight,  and  soon 
after  we  were  happy  to  welcome  our  shipmates  safe  on  board.  I 
should,  however,  except  Mr.  Grasper,  who,  while  "  hooking  on,"  was 
not  sufficiently  on  his  guard  ;  the  boat  having  swung  under  the 
counter,  and  rising  on  a  sea  while  the  ship  settled  down,  he  received 
a  blow  upon  his  broad  shoulders  that  bent  him  to  the  loggerhead. 
Of  this  accident  I  reaped  the  bitter  fruit.  Every  day  for  more  than 
a  week,  I  was  indulged  with  the  humane  occupation  of  rubbing  the 
bruised  flesh,  while  at  the  same  time  he  nearly  distracted  me 


52  JReef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

with  questions  upon  the  relative  merits  of  embrocations  and  lini- 
ments. 

One  day  I  had  an  opportunity  of  retaliating  upon  him  for  this  per- 
secution. Being  of  plethoric  habit,  he  was  frequently  troubled, 
after  over  exertion,  with  a  "  rush  of  blood"  to  the  head,  and  which 
was  sufficiently  evinced  by  his  unnaturally  suffused  countenance. 
It  was  on  one  of  these  occasions  that  he  came  to  me  complaining 
of  a  "  terrible  oppression  aloft,"  and  inquired  whether  I  could  do 
anything  for  him.  I  examined  his  pulse  with  indefinite  delay,  then 
staring  at  him  with  all  the  solemnity  I  could  assume,  pronounced 
him  in  a  critical  situation,  intimating  at  the  same  time  that  there 
were  strong  symptoms  of  pericarditis. 

"  The  devil,  though  !     What  would  you  prescribe  ?" 

"  Phlebotomy !" 

"  Flea  bottom  me  !    Why,  what's  that  ?" 

"Venesection." 

"  Look  here,  my  boy :  the  mizzen  spanker-gaff  wants  scraping, 
and  I'm  goin'  to  haul  the  ship  up  three  pints  nigher  the  wind  one 
of  these  days,  and  give  some  of  you  a  work-up  job.  When  you  talk 
to  me,  I  want  you  to  talk  plain  English.  You  don't  know  me  yet." 
(Here  Mr.  Grasper  gave  a  rotary  motion  to  his  herculean  shoulders, 
while  his  mouth  went  into  convulsions.)  "  Translate  that  word  you 
said  last." 

"  Bleeding,  sir !" 

"  0  Moses  !  Why,  I  wouldn't  be  tapped  for  anything.  I  was  only 
bled  once  in  my  life,  and  that  was  in  Turkowana  (Talcahuano.) 
The  doctor  fussed  over  me  for  two  hours  before  he  hove  his  iron. 
He  said  I  had  the  dreadfullest  arm  to  bleed  he  ever  saw." 

The  most  elaborate  reasoning  failed  to  convince  him  at  the  time, 
and  I  left  him  vacillating  between  the  propriety  of  my  prescription 
and  the  physical  derangement  consequent  upon  having  his  arm 
punctured.  However,  about  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  he  called 
me  aft  to  the  companionway,  where  the  steward  had  just  placed  a 
basin  of  warm  water.  Mr.  Grasper  had  planted  himself  firmly  upon 
deck,  with  his  right  arm  akimbo.  His  shirt-sleeve  was  rolled  up 
from  the  left  arm,  which  was  extended  at  right  angles  with  his  body, 
and  terminating  in  a  ponderous  fist ;  with  lips  rigid  by  muscular  con- 


Attempt  at  Surgery.  .  ,  53 


i 
traction,  he  looked  for  all  the  world  like  Bacchus  endeavoring  to 

personate  Hercules. 

"  Get  your  lance  there,  doctor ;  I'm  goin'  to  be  bled !"  he  shouted 
as  soon  as  I  had  passed  the  galley. 

The  quarter-deck  at  this  time  presented  a  busy  spectacle.  The 
afternoon  was  fine,,  and  Captain  Buck  was  astride  of  a  lance-pole, 
the  head  of  which  rested  upon  the  bulwarks,  where  the  sun's  rays 
glistened  upon  the  polished  steel ;  its  long  taper  shaft  he  was  en- 
deavoring to  smooth  with  a  spoke-shave.  Three  or  four  of  the  crew, 
seated  upon  deck,  were  overhauling  superannuated  potatoes,  which 
they  facetiously  termed  "  scurvy  pills."  One  of  them,  Old  Bill,  as  I 
approached,  rolled  his  eyes  wildly,  and  throwing  back  his  head,  made 
a  significant  gesture  by  drawing  his  index  finger  across  his  throat 
from  one  ear  to  the  other.  Weasle  was  at  the  wheel. 

Instead  of  bringing  the  lance  only,  I  brought  the  case  of  instru- 
ments, and  opening  it  to  its  full  extent,  laid  it  upon  the  companion- 
way,  to  the  consternation  of  Mr.  Grasper. 

"  Why,  here  !     Why,  what's  all  this  ?"  exclaimed  that  officer. 

"  I  can  tell  you,  sir,  after  making  an  examination."  Although  a 
muscular  man,  Mr.  Grasper's  tendons  and  arteries  were  liberally  in- 
cased- with  fat ;  and  any  practitioner  will  readily  perceive  that  the 
opening  of  a  vein  so  situated,  is  a  more  delicate  operation  than  when 
it  is  fully  exposed  as  in  thin  subjects.  "  On  this  hint,  I  spake." 
After  applying  the  bandage,  and  giving  him  the  handle  of  a  scrub- 
broom  to  hold,  with  directions  for  him  to  keep  his  fingers  continu- 
ally moving,!  proceeded  to  examine  his  arm  carefully  and  deliberately, 
during  which  process  I  shook  my  head  ominously  two  or  three  times. 

"  Why,  what's  the  matter  with  you,  doctor  1  Why  don't  you  fire, 
and  fall  back  ?" 

"  The  fact  is,  Mr.  Grasper,  I  never  met  with  such  an  arm  as 
yours  in  my  life.  I  don't  wonder  the  surgeon  in  '  Turkowana'  de- 
layed so  long  before  performing  the  operation."' 

"  Why  so  ?" 

"  Because  your  veins  are  very  deep-seated — remarkably  so." 

"  Do  you  think  there's  any  danger  ?"  he  inquired  somewhat  anx- 
iously, looking  from  me  to  his  arm,  where  two  or  three  light  azure 
streaks  were  barely  discernible  upon  a  field  of  bronze. 


54  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seaf. 

"  I  will  be  frank  with  you,  sir,  and  explain  the  nature  of  the  case 
as  well  as  I  am  able,  after  which  you  can  judge  for  yourself.  In  the 
first  place,  sir,  your  arm  at  this  point  contains  five  veins,  which,  for 
the  sake  of  distinction,  we  call  the  cephalic,  basilic,  median,  median- 
cephalic,  and  median-basilic.  I  propose  opening  the  median-basilic, 
which  we  usually  do  on  account  of  its  size  ;  but  in  your  case  it  will 
be  attended  with  danger,  for  by  the  peculiar  throbbing,  I  judge  that 
either  the  brachial  or  ulnar  artery  lies  immediately  beneath  it."  I 
then  proceeded  to  apply  the  lancet. 

"  Hold  on !  hold  on !  Have  I  got  all  those  things  in  my  arm  ? 
Supposen  you  should  cut  an  artery  ?" 

"  Oh,  I'm  prepared  for  that !  If  such  an  accident  should  occur,  I 
would  try  to  check  the  hemorrhage  by  a  compress  ;  but  if  that  failed, 
I  should  take  this  instrument  (removing  the  glittering  blade  of  the 
scalpel  from  its  casement  of  variegated  hawk's-bill)  and  dissect  care- 
fully until  I  reached  the  wounded  vessel,  which  I  would  endeavor  to 
seize  with  this  instrument,  (pointing  to  the  tenaculum,)  and  tie  both 
its  severed  extremities.  After  this,  I  would  secure  it  with  a  figure- 
of-eight  bandage.  I  forgot  to  mention,  sir,  that,  owing  to  the  depth 
of  your  veins  beneath  the  skin,  unless  the  opening  of  the  cuticle 
corresponds  precisely  with  that  of  the  vein,  a  thrombus  will  be  formed, 
occasioned  by  the  blood  escaping  into  the  adipose  tissue." 

Mr.  Grasper  relaxed  his  hold  of  the  broom-handle,  which  fell  upon 
deck,  while  that  famous  arm  dropped  mechanically  to  his  side.  "  I 

guess  I  won't  be  bled  to-day,  Doctor .  I  see  you've  got  a 

thumb-lancet;  in  Holmes's  Hole,  we  always  use  spring  ones." 

It  was  in  vain  that  I  attempted  to  expatiate  upon  the  antiquity  of 
the  former,  and  to  denounce  the  latter  as  a  mere  plaything  of  modern 
invention.  He  was  inexorable  ;  and  removing  the  bandage,  and  roll- 
ing down  his  sleeve,  he  intimated  by  his  gestures  that  my  audience 
was  at  an  end.  I  do  not  know  whether  Mr.  Grasper  concluded 
mentally 'that  I  had  been  indulging  a  personal  gratification  at  his  ex- 
pense ;  but  certain  it  is,  that,  during  the  last  two  months  of  our  un- 
avoidable relationship,  he  eschewed  all  familiarity  with  me,  and 
availed  himself  of  every  opportunity  for  rendering  my  situation  as 
disagreeable  as  possible. 

A  sense  of  duty,  nay,  respect  for  bodies  corporate,  (I  beg  his  par- 


Mr.  Grasper — His  Peculiarities.  55 

don,)  impels  me  to  offer  a  slight  tribute  to  the  memory  of  a  great 
man.  Yes,  he  was  truly  a  great  man  ;  for  in  point  of  dimension,  he 
might  have  been  mistaken  for  a  diminutive  specimen  of  the  cetacea 
he  was  in  pursuit  of;  yet  upon  occasions  he  was  gentle  as  a 
lamb,  and  when  in  a  towering  passion,  it  was  impossible  to  oblit- 
erate the  signs  of  mirth  that  lurked  about  the  corners  of  his 
mouth.  Mr.  Grasper  was  not  without  his  faults — some  of  them 
glaring  ones  ;  but  over  these  I  draw  a  veil,  for  he  was  a  reflect- 
ing man,  deeply  so,  and  that  was  a  redeeming  quality.  I  have  seen 
him  puffing  mechanically  from  his  short  clay  pipe  while  he  gazed  at 
the  tryworks  in  a  fit  of  gloomy  abstraction  ;  then,  as  if  suddenly 
aroused  from  his  re  very  by  the  birth  of  a  latent  germ  of  intellect,  he 
would  fetch  a  sort  of  blowing  sound,  (which  I  have  always  supposed 
was  intended  for  a  sigh,)  while  he  smothered  an  imprecation  upon 
the  ingratitude  of  owners  and  low  price  of  oil.  Strange  as  it  may 
seem,  he  possessed  a  poetic  vein  ;  while  taking  altitudes,  I  have 
frequently  heard  him,  after  removing  the  quadrant  from  his  eye,  give 
utterance  to  the  following  couplet : 

"  As  the  secant  is  to  the  half  sum, 
So  is  the  cosine  to  a  bottle  of  rum." 

"  Still  as  the  breeze  but  dreadful  as  the  storm,"  I  have  seen  him 
with  his  weather-eye  lifted,  hovering  about  our  little  fold  like  a 
strange  sail  in  the  offing,  backing  and  filling,  edging  nearer  little  by 
little,  then  keeping  away  again  until  he  had  obtained  a  commanding 
position,  when,  like  a  hungry  hawk,  at  one  swoop  he  would  pounce 
upon  his  victim.  But  I  do  not  love  to  harrow  the  mind  with  the 
dark  side  of  a  picture,  though  true.  Years  have  flown  by  since  the 
occurrence  of  these  events,  and  every  vindictive  feeling  has  been 
long  since  consigned  to  oblivion.  Then  come,  Mr.  Grasper,  if  your 
venerable  hulk  is  still  floating  upon  the  sea  of  life,  accept  the  prof- 
fered hand,  and  let  us  be  friends  again  ere  exchanging  "  So  'long" 
forever.  Before  we  part,  however,  we  will  indulge  in  the  recollec- 
tion of  one  of  the  pastimes  you  were  occasionally  pleased  to  fur- 
nish us. 

It  is  blowing  a  gale ;  the  vessel  is  "  hove-to,"  and  there  is  a  heavy 
sea  running.  The  captain  swings  below  in  his  cot,  and  the  mate  is 


56  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

• 

officer  of  the  deck.  Our  fresh  diet  is  stowed  in  a  solid  mass  be- 
tween the  weather-bulwarks  and  the  tryworks,  a  position,  by-the- 
bye,  advantageously  chosen,' for  here  their  swineships  are  protected 
from  the  wind,  and  secure  from  any  accident  that  might  occur  from 
the  rolling  of  the  ship.  Between  the  tryworks  and  the  main  hatch, 
the  space  is  clear,  and  Weaslc  is  ordered  to  bring  some  slush  and 
apply  it  to  a  portion  of  the  deck  to  windward.  He  then  brings  a 
quantity  of  corn,  which  he  hands  Mr.  Grasper,  who  scatters  it 
temptingly  upon  the  greasy  surface.  Humanity  would  suggest  that 
the  poor  victims  be  permitted  to  eke  out  as  comfortable  an  existence 
as  possible  during  the  brief  period  of  their  impressment,  but  riot  so 
thought  Mr.  Grasper.  After  sundry  grunts,  they  would  rouse  them- 
selves, give  a  shake  or  two  to  be  perfectly  sure  that  their  sea-legs 
were  on,  then  proceed  cautiously  with  their  noses  down  toward  the 
corn,  and  in  a  few  moments  a  goodly  number  would  be  assembled, 
crunching  away  voraciously.  An  ordinary  lurch  would  not  disturb 
their  equilibrium,  for  with  their  toes  in  the  seams  of  the  deck,  they 
braced  resolutely  ;  but  presently  a  huge  sea  rises,  gathering  strength 
as  it  approaches,  until,  like  an  avalanche,  it  seems  ready  to  burst 
upon  us.  Then  was  the  critical  moment.  "  Hold  hard  there,  boys, 
and  twig  'em !"  shouts  Mr.  Grasper,  as  the  wave  strikes  the  ship, 
causing  her  to  heel  to  leeward,  until  a  cataract  pours  over  her  bul- 
warks, while  the  porkers,  en  masse  go  sliding,  biting,  and  squeal- 
ing, into  the  lee  scupper,  looking,  and  with  good  reason,  like  the 
most  disconsolate  creatures  in  the  world. 

This  species  of  diversion,  together  with  shaving  and  decorating 
them  with  various  colors,  he  would  never  indulge  in  when  Captain 
Buck  was  present,  for  our  skipper  was  severe  in  his  denunciations 
of  it,  not  so  much,  perhaps,  from  sympathy  for  the  animals  as  from 
other  considerations.  The  spectacle  of  a  lean  pig  hobbling  about 
deck  with  a  fractured  limb  is  anything  but  an  inviting  object,  even  if 
one  is  beyond  the  reach  of  fresh  dainties. 


A  Professional  Colloquy.  57 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

"VERY    LIKE    A     WHALE!" 

IT  was  a  cold  morning  in  the  month  of  December ;  the  cutting 
wind  that  blew  fresh  from  the  snowy  mountains  of  Patagonia,  then 
in  sight,  together  with  an  occasional  dash  of  brine,  made  us  court 
the  embrace  of  our  monkey-jackets  more  ardently  than  ever.  It 
could  not  have  been  later  than  six  o'clock,  when,  "  Ah  !  b-1-o-w-s  !  " 
rang  out  clear  and  distinct  from  the  mast-head.  Mr.  Gurrie  had  the 
deck. 

"  Where  away  ?" 

"  Three  pints  off  the  lee-bow." 

"  What  is  it  ?" 

"  A  school  of  sperm  whale,  sir." 

Mr.  Gurrie  paused  a  moment ;  a  school  of  sperm  whales  in  such 
high  latitudes  was  something  unusual  in  his  experience,  and  he  felt 
half  inclined  to  doubt  it. 

"  How  do  you  know  ?" 

"  Low  and  bushy  spouts,  sir ;  they've  '  milled'  now,  and  are 
pinting  to  wind'ard." 

"  Well,  keep  your  eye  on  'em ;  here,  Easy,  watch  her  while  I 
speak  to  the  '  old  man  ;'  I  don't  think  he'll  lower  with  this  wind  and 
sea." 

A  moment  after,  and  Captain  Buck  was  on  deck  in  deshabille. 

"  Where  are  they  now  ?"  he  shouted,  looking  attentively  at  the 
crow's  nest. 

"  About  a  pint  off  the  lee-bow;  say  two  miles  off,  sir." 

"  Trim  the  yards,  there,  Mr.  Grasper  ;  brace  her  up  as  sharp  as 
she'll  go,  and  call  all  hands  to  stand  by  the  boats."  Then  to  the 
helmsman,  "  Keep  her  up  a  couple  of  pints,  if  she'll  go  it — there, 
steady  's  you  go,  and  watch  her  close."  He  then  went  below  to 
complete  his  attire. 

All  these  orders  were  executed  almost  as  soon  as .  given,  with  the 
exception  of  the  appearance  of  the  watch  below,  but  they  soon  came 
tumbling  out  of  the  scuttle,  half  clad  and  rubbing  their  eyes. 


58  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

There  was  a  "  mustering  in  hot  haste"  among  the  boat-steerers  ; 
all  superfluous  articles  they  hastily  bundled  out  of  their  boats  upon 
deck ;  lances  were  brandished,  arid  short  warps  inspected,  sheaths 
were  removed,  and  the  keen  edges  of  their  irons  tested  between 
thumb  and  finger  ;  there  was  no  idle  joking  among  them  ;  it  was  a 
moment  of  desperate  resolve. 

We  had  a  short  chopping  sea  on,  a  most  disagreeable  one  for 
boats,  and  through  this  we  were  now  dashing  close-hauled  upon  the 
wind- to  forelay  the  chase.  Every  man  was  on  the  alert,  and  some 
had  already  sprung  into  the  rigging. 

"  There  she  blows  !  there  she  blows !"  rang  out  simultaneously 
^  from  every  mouth  as  the  whales  came  up  to  breathe.     We  were  almost 
aboard  of  them.     The  captain  dropped  his  spy-glass. 

"  Haul  'back  the  main  yard,  and  put  the  line-tub  in  the  boat. 
Mr.  Grasper,  stand  by  to  lower  away." 

"  Larboard  boat's  crew !  do  you  hear  there  ?"  bellowed  that  offi- 
cer, frantic  with  excitement,  as  he  stood  bareheaded,  without  coat, 
and  his  sleeves  rolled  up  to  his  elbows.  "  You,  Brown  !  You, 
Fisher !  spring,  I  tell  you,  or  I'll  make  mincemeat  of  you  in  just 
seventeen  and  three-quarter  seconds  by  the  chronometer." 

These  two  individuals,  though  partial  to  sausages,  manifested  ex- 
treme reluctance  at  the  idea  of  having  "their  bodies  converted 
into  that  article  of  diet,  and  accelerated  their  movements  accord- 
ingly. 

"  You,  Smith  !"  continued  he,  "  hold  on  to  that  block  until  it  turns 
to  a  lump  of  silver — how  dare  you  let  go  ?"  By  this  time  leviathan 
was  giving  us  grand  illustrations  in  hydraulics,  which  called  forth 
another  exclamation  from  Mr.  Grasper.  "  In  the  name  of  Moses, 
look  at  'em  !  Now,  Abram,  don't  go  to  sea  again,  won't  you  ?  Little 
darlings — hundred  barrellers,  every  one  of  them." 

"Are  you  all  ready,  there  ?"  hailed  Captain  Buck. 

"  Aye,  aye,  sir  !" 

"  Well,  lower  away,  then,  and  be  quick  about  it." 

"  Slack  away  roundly — for'ard  tackle — handsomely  after  fall ! 
You,  Fisher !  steady,  or  I'll  wollop  you  with  the  steering-oar." 

The  boat  has  struck  the  water,  and  her  crew  slide  down  the 
"  falls ; "  each  man  knows  his  oar,  and  after  a  momentary  delay, 


A  Chase — Exciting  Scene.  59 

away  it  started  in  pursuit,  Mr  Grasper  shouting  incoherently,  and, 
as  far  as  his  limits  would  permit,  capering  like  a  madman. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  other  officers  had  not  been  idle.  Mr.  Gurrie, 
with  less  noise  and  equal  energy,  had  cleared  away,  lowered,  and 
was  off.  Mr.  Short  had  received  no  order  respecting  the  bow  boat, 
and  he  saw  but  too  plainly  how  the  battle  was  going  :  he  must  re- 
main ship-keeper,  and  reap  none  of  the  glory.  Summoning  up  his 
courage  for  a  first  and  final  effort,  he  went  aft  to  soften  the  stony- 
hearted captain,  of  whom  he  stood  in  slavish  awe.  Every  mus- 
cle in  his  weather-beaten  face  was  twisted  up  with  ludicrous 
effect,  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  pathetic  appeal.  I  know  not 
whether  it  was  the  coldness  of  the  morning,  but  his  eyes  wore  a 
vitreous  expression,  and  a  bright  drop  glistened  in  either  corner. 
Poor  man  !  His  honor  was  at  stake. 

"  I  tell  you,  Mr.  Short,  you  must  not  go.  I  can't  spare  you.  I 
must  have  some  one  aboard  that  I  can  depend  upon,  for  I'm  going1 
myself.  Starboard  boat's  crew  !  stand  by  to  lower." 

With  a  woe-begone  expression,  Mr.  Short  paced  despondingly  up 
and  down  opposite  his  boat ;  and  even  the  boat-steerer  seemed  to 
partake  of  his  "  header's"  supposed  humiliation. 

The  carpenter,  who  belonged  to  the  captain's  boat,  exhibited  some 
reluctance  about  going,  for  the  water  that  morning  looked  wet  and 
cold  ;  but  Josh,  who,  more  than  a  month  ago,  had  been  exalted  to 
the  post  of  steward,  without  coat,  hat,  or  shoes,  sprang  immediately 
into  his  place,  and  away  they  went. 

The  whales  had  by  this  time  become  "  gallied,"  and  were  scat- 
tered :  some  had  "  gone  flukes,"  others  scampered  off  to  windward, 
and  the  first  two  boats  seemed  no  nearer  the  chase  than  when  they 
started.  At  last,  more  experienced  eyes  than  mine  saw  one  rise 
not  far  from  the  captain's  boat,  which  was  immediately  pointed  for 
it,  and  hardly  five  minutes  had  elapsed  before  they  reported  it  was 
fast.  I  managed  to  get  hold  of  the  telescope,  and  was  well  repaid 
for  my  temerity.  The  dark  back  of  leviathan,  as  he  dashed  on  to 
windward,  was  plainly  visible  amid  a  sea  of  foam,  tinged  with  the 
blood  that  was  bursting  in  jets  from  his  spiracles.  The  boat,  not  far 
behind,  was  flying  along  with  equal  or  diminished  speed,  as  the 
line  was  either  checked  or  slackened  around  the  loggerhead,  not 


60  Reef -Roving  s  in  the  South  Seas. 

skimming,  but  cutting  through  the  seas,  and  half  hidden  by  sheets 
of  foam.  An  experienced  officer  was  at  the  loggerhead,  to  tend  line, 
and  the  boat-steerer,  with  his  hatchet,  stood  ready  to  sever  it,  should 
the  emergency  require.  It  was  a  grand,  but,  nevertheless,  a  cold 
sight. 

Soon  after,  Mr.  Gurrie  returned  on  board,  sulky  at  his  bad  luck, 
and  gave  idle  spectators  a  job  at  reefing  topsails ;  it  was  not 
long  before  Captain  Buck  made  his  appearance  also,  while  Mr. 
Grasper,  in  the  larboard  boat,  was  stationed  by  the  prize.  All  were 
thoroughly  drenched,  and  the  captain's  boat,  usually  so  trim  and  neat, 
bore  traces  of  the  recent  conflict :  lances  and  irons  were  sheathless 
and  bent ;  the  hatchet,  thollpins,  bailer,  and  other  indispensables, 
were  scattered  promiscuously  about,  and  here  and  there  dark  patches 
of  blood  were  conspicuous. 

Some  half  dozen  shivering  wretches  climbed  over  the  bulwarks, 
seeking  refuge  below  and  a  change  of  garments.  Josh  soon  ap- 
peared in  a  warm  woollen  shirt,  with  his  collar  "  all  abroad,"  and 
looking  ruddy  as  ever. 

"  Well,  Josh,"  said  the  cooper,  "  what  do  you  think  of  whaling  by 
this  time  ?" 

"  Great,  sir ;  nothing  like  it ;  a  dash  or  so  of  fresh-water  spray,  but 
none  the  worse  for  that.  Mr.  Easy  struck  him  in  the  '  life'  the  first 
dart,  but  I  did  feel  a  little  squeamish  about  the  gills  when  I  smelt  the 
warm  blood."* 


CHAPTER    IX. 

WHEREIN  IT  WILL  BE  SEEN  THAT  WHALING  IS  NO  JOKE. 

ALL  was  now  hurry  and  bustle  ;  the  wind  was  gradually  increas- 
ing, and  we  were  compelled  to  work  sharp  to  save  our  prize.  A  line 
was  got  out,  and  made  fast  to  the  whale,  which  was  still  a  long  way 

*  When  a  whale,  after  being  mortally  wounded,  spouts  blood,  the  effect  of  the 
odor  arising  from  it  is  frequently  such  as  to  produce  nausea  and  vomiting  upon 
those  within  its  influence. 


Preparations  for  an  Attack.  61 

off,  and  various  turns  were  taken  about  the  bitts  and  belaying-pins  ; 
then  commenced  a  long  and  tedious  job  of  hauling,  which  continued, 
I  should  think,  about  two  hours,  after  which  we  ventured  to  look  over 
the  side. 

It  proved  to  be  a  young  sperm  bull,  say  a  fifty-barreller.  There 
he  lay  stretched  out  alongside,  his  brown  back  just  exposed,  and  un- 
dulating gently  with  the  motion  of  the  water.  The  little  instrument 
that  had  carried  death  to  the'  monster  v*  as  buried  nearly  to  the 
socket  in  his  side,  and  from  the  pole  a  portion  of  the  warp  was  still 
dangling. 

With  considerable  difficulty  a  chain  cable  was  passed  around  it, 
and  secured  amidships,  while  a  strong  hawser  attached  to  the  flukes 
was  made  fast  to  the  windlass.  A  squad  was  sent  below  to  get  up 
the  cutting  falls  and  gear,  and  in  due  time  the  ponderous  blocks  were 
swinging  from  the  mainmast.  The  carpenter  and  his  assistants  busied 
themselves  about  erecting  a  stage  over  the  side,  under  the  supervi- 
sion of  Captain  Buck,  and  spades,  with  their  long  slender  shafts, 
were  taken  by  the  boat-steerers  from  their  resting-places,  where 
they  had  grown  rusty,  and  resharpened ;  besides,  there  was  a  mus- 
tering of  cutting-pikes,  and  all  the  indispensables  that  had  long  been 
forgotten. 

By  the  time  our  preparations  were  completed  it  was  past  noon, 
and  all  hands  were  knocked  off  for  dinner,  which  consisted  of  the 
usual  quota  of  jurik  and  bean  soup.  It  was  a  matter  of  doubt  with 
some  whether  we  would  be  able  to  save  even  a  "  blanket-piece,"  for 
the  wind  had  increased  to  a  gale,  arid  although  the  fastenings  had 
been  left  well  slackened,  the  whale  was  surging  up  and  down  in 
a  manner  that  threatened  every  moment  to  part  them  ;  about  one 
o'clock  the  hawser,  the  strongest  rope  in  the  ship,  went  with  a  snap. 
All  hope  of  wearing  ship,  and  getting  the  whale  to  leeward,  was  then 
abandoned,  and  our  only  alternative  was  to  work  cautiously  and  save 
what  we  could. 

I  do  not  wonder  that  Mr.  Easy  exhibited  considerable  reluctance 
at  the  part  he  was  to  play,  and  that  the  boat-steerers  congratulated 
themselves  for  the  time  on  the  inferiority  of  their  stations.  Captain 
Buck,  with  a  rope  around  his  waist,  had  gone  out  upon  the  stage,  and 
with  a  keen  spade  had  been  churning  the  whale's  back  during  the 


62  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

intervals  it  "sUowed  itself  above  water,  and  after  a  while  had  suc- 
ceeded in  making  a  tolerable  hole  to  "  hook  on  to."  Whaling  etiquette 
required  that  whoever  steered  the  captain's  boat,  usually  the  fourth 
officer,  should  go  down  and  hook  on.  In  ordinary  weather  there  is 
no  great  difficulty  attending  the  process,  for  persons  are  stationed 
upon  the  stage  with  sharp  spades  to  drive  away  the  numerous  sharks 
that  are  always  prowling  about  in  low  latitudes  ;  and  I  have  seen  a 
"calf"  that  bore  the  impress  of  their  teeth.  In  the  present  instance 
there  was  no  danger  of  this  kind  to  be  apprehended,  for  the  weather 
was  too  cold  ;  but  what  was  worse,  there  was  a  fearful  sea  run- 
ning that  sometimes  raised  the  whale  nearly  to  a  level  with  the 
deck,  then  sinking  low  in  the  troth,  a  broken  wave  would  bury  it  in 
a  cauldron  of  foam.  In  vain  the  whisky  bottle  was  freely  tendered; 
glass  after  glass  disappeared,  but  human  consciousness  retained  its 
perceptive  faculties  as  vividly  as  ever.  To  refuse  compliance  with 
his  duty  would  have  lowered  Mr.  Easy  in  the  estimation  of  his  infe- 
riors, and  suggest  imputations  on  his  courage.  No,  it  was  necessary 
for  him.  as  Mrs.  Chick  has  it,  to  "  make  an  effort." 

Mr.  Gurrie  took  his  position  upon  the  scaffold,  and  after  a  mo- 
mentary preparation,  Mr.  Easy,  bareheaded  and  barefooted,  with  a 
halter — not  around  his  neck,  but  under  his  arms — passed  through  the 
open  gangway  and  joined  him. 

"  Now,  my  boy,  don't  be  afraid,"  said  Mr.  Gurrie  in  his  gruff  way. 
"  Keep  cool,  for  I  can  hold  you  till  you  are  black  and  blue.  Does 
the  knot  hurt  your  back  ?  If  it's  too  tight,  say  so,  and  I'll  alter  it." 

Mr.  Easy  sprang  lightly  upon  the  fall,  slid  rapidly  down,  and  in  a 
moment  was  kneeling  upon  the  whale's  back,  with  the  huge  iron  hook 
in  his  hands,  endeavoring  to  thrust  it  into  the  hole  prepared  for  its 
reception.  Before  he  could  accomplish  this,  a  sea  broke  over  and 
washed  him  off. 

"  Catch  the  iron  !  Catch  the  iron  !"  shouted  a  dozen  voices  as  he 
struggled  in  the  water  to  regain  his  position.  This  he  succeeded  in 
doing,  and  again  renewed  his  efforts  ;  but  when  he  would  almost  ef- 
fect his  object,  the  combing  of  a  sea  would  compel  him  to  grasp  the 
iron  for  support,  and  thus  he  would  lose  all  he  had  gained.  Once 
more  he  was  washed  off,  and  again  he  grasped  the  harpoon,  but  this 
time  it  failed  him  ;  loosened  and  bent  it  drew  from  its  hold,  and  soon 


Perilous  Position.  63 


disappeared  ;  he  was  now  swimming  and  struggling  in  Vain  to  re- 
gain a  footing  upon  the  whale ;  but  it  would  be  easier  to  scale  a  pre- 
cipice than,  unaided,  to  have  climbed  that  smooth  convex  surface, 
perpetually  in  motion. 

"  Quick  !  be  quick,  Mr.  Grasper !  the  iron's  drawn ;  throw 
another  !"  cried  the  captain. 

With  a  hop,  skip,  and  a  jump,  that  officer  snatched  one  from  the 
carpenter's  bench,  and  with  a  ferocious  expression  of  countenance 
hove  it  writh  all  his  might,  and  buried  it  to  the  socket  in  the  whale's 
back.  But  his  assistance  came  too  late  ;  before  Mr.  Easy  could 
reach  it,  a  huge  sea  lifted  him  over  between  the  whale  and  the  ship, 
and  buried  them  both  in  its  foam.  Most  of  us  looked  aghast,  think- 
ing him  crushed  ;  and  seeing  him  drawn  up  apparently  lifeless  by 
Mr.  Gurrie,  I  felt  that  my  worst  fears  were  realized,  or  at  least  that 
he  was  seriously  injured.  A  privileged  crowd  gathered  around  him, 
and  upon  this  occasion  I  was  one  of  the  number.  He  was  stunned 
by  the  shock,  and  I  was  at  first  apprehensive  bleeding  would  be  ne- 
cessary. A  couple  of  officers  carried  him  aft,  where  he  soon  revived, 
though  unfit  for  duty  during  the  remainder  of  the  day. 

"  Don't  give  up  the  whale,"  thought  Captain  Buck.  "  Come, 
John,  down  you  go  !" 

This  was  addressed  to  our  friend  John  the  Scotch  boat-steerer, 
who  came  next  in  rank,  as  he  steered  the  mate's  boat.  But  John 
was  wide-awake  to  his  own  interests,  and  any  appeals  to  his  ambi- 
tion or  sense  of  duty  he  would  offset  by  the  argument  before  him ; 
although  the  "  mountain-dew"  under  other  circumstances  would  have 
proved  a  most  acceptable  beverage,  he  was  now  firm  enough  to  resist 
its  allurements,  and  his  excuses  terminated  with  a  flat  refusal. 

Tom,  an  American  boat-steerer  attached  to  the  waist  boat,  and 
who,  like  old  John,  vvas  an  experienced  hand,  was  next  called  upon, 
but  he  too  muttered  something  about  "  asking  impossibilities,"  and 
"  sided"  with  his  companion.  I  could  not  help  thinking  that  the 
whole  was  a  grand  exhibition  for  our  young  aspirants  to  whaling 
honors. 

There  was  but  one  boat-steerer  remaining,  and  that  was  Jim 
Hussy,  a  Canadian.  Smart  and  active,  he  was  always  at  his  post 
in  any  emergency. 


64  "  Reef -Roving  s  in  the  South  Seas. 

"  Come,  Jim  !  what  d'ye  say  ?"  said  Mr.  Grasper,  slapping  him  on 
the  shoulder.  "  Go  down  there  and  hook  on,  and  shame  those  cow- 
ards. Will  you  go?" 

'•Go?  Yes,  to  the  devil,  if  you  want  me  to.  I  say,  steward, 
stand  by  to  give  us  a  horn." 

The  bottle  was  passed,  and  Jim  emptied  his  glass  at  a  draught ; 
then  divesting  himself  of  his  shoes,  he  tied  the  rope  around  his 
waist,  and  hardly  touching  the  fall,  leaped  down  upon  the  whale's 
back.  Seizing  the  hook,  he  fastened  it  at  the  first  attempt ;  then 
grasping  the  harpoon  to  steady  himself  against  an  approaching  sear 
he  bawled  out  as  loudly  as  he  could,  "  Haul !  you  santapedes,  haul !" 
Jim  himself  was  immediately  hauled  up,  but  not  without  a  thorough 
immersion.  I  cannot  attribute  his  success  to  superior  skill,  for  JVIr. 
Easy,  who  killed  the  whale,  was  his  senior  in  years,  and  more  ex- 
perienced ;  but  whether  indebted  to  luck  or  otherwise,  he  deserved 
credit,  and  for  a  time  was  quite  a  lion  among  the  uninitiated. 

As  before  remarked,  we  had  all  sorts  of  dispositions,  and  the  senti- 
ments pertaining  to  actors  in  greater  events  were  displayed  on  this 
occasion  ;  for  how  often  is  it  in  every-day  life  that  we  see  a  meri- 
torious act,  when  it  comes  under  the  cognizance  of  envy,  distorted 
and  perverted  from  its  true  meaning,  while  that  amiable  quality  en- 
deavors to  persuade  itself  that  either  the  author's  motives  were 
selfish,  or  the  deed  the  result  of  some  fortuitous  circumstance  !  Al- 
though a  cruel  humiliation  to  John  and  Tom,  they  had  no  right  to 
rob  Jim  of  his  laurels  ;  -and  their  sarcastic  allusions  to  drunkenness 
and  insanity  were  unheeded  by  the  mass. 

But  time  is  too  precious  to  waste  in  idle  comment ;  so,  leaving 
Donald  and  Jonathan  to  their  mutual  consolations,  I  must  hasten  to 
the  brakes.  How  surprisingly  hard  they  worked  as  blanket-piece 
after  blanket-piece  ascended  to  the  main  yard !  Two  or  three  debu- 
tants attempted  a  song,  but  they  all  proved  abortions,  and  failed 
miserably. 

I  will  here  explain,  for  the  benefit  of  those  unacquainted  with  the 
profession,  a  few  terms  that  must  necessarily  occur.  After  the  hook 
has  been  fastened  to  the  blubber,  the  captain,  or  whoever  may  have 
that  duty  assigned  him,  commences  cutting  about  a  foot  on  either 
side  of  the  hook,  and  as  he  cuts,  the  men  heave  slowly  at  the  brakes, 


Explanation  of  Professional  Terms.  65 

while  the  fish  is  gradually  turning.  Having  hoisted  the  strip  nearly  to 
the  main  yard,  one  of  the  officers,  (in  the  instance  before  us,  Mr.  Gur- 
rie,)  with  a  two-edged  pike,  plunges  into  the  strip  of  blubber,  and  cuts 
a  circular  hole  about  a  foot  in  diameter.  Through  this  the  bight  of 
a  rope  is  passed  and  toggled,  then  attached  to  a  tackle  overhead. 
This  being  done,  the  strip  is  severed  immediately  above  the  toggle, 
and  by  the  aid  of  guys,  is  swung  over  the  main  hatchway.  This  is 
called  a  "  blanket-piece,"  and  is  lowered  to  the  between-decks, 
which,  together  with  the  space  appertaining,  constitutes  the  "  blubber- 
room,"  and  the  process  is  repeated  until  every  blanket-piece  has 
been  safely  deposited.  They  are  then  cut  up  into  square  pieces, 
called  "horse-pieces,"  of  convenient  size  for  tossing,  by  persons  sent 
below  for  that  purpose,  a  task  usually  devolving  upon  the  laggards. 

After  a  sufficient  quantity  of  horse-pieces  have  been  provided,  the 
work  of  boiling  commences.  The  carpenter  is  stationed  near  the 
tryworks  with  a  mincing-knife  and  block,  and  as  he  needs  them, 
calls  out  "  Horse-pieces."  These  are  tossed  from  the  hold  with 
pikes,  where,  by  similar  implements,  they  are  thrown  into  a  heap 
near  the  mincing-tub.  The  boiler  in  his  turn  calls  out  "  Mincing- 
pieces,"  and  there  are  always  supernumeraries  ready  to  obey  the 
requisition.  After  boiling  sufficiently  to  extract  the  oil,  they  are 
removed  from  the  kettles  with  a  large  skimmer.  These  are  called 
"  scraps,"  and  are  laid  in  a  pile,  to  be  used  as  fuel.  The  oil  is 
then  baled  out  into  a  large  copper  cooler,  which  is  lashed  to  the 
tryworks,  preparatory  to  being  stowed  below  in  casks.  It  may  be 
as  well  to  add,  that  the  process  of  boiling,  once  commenced,  con- 
tinues day  and  night;  and  during  seasons  when  the  fish  are  plenti- 
ful, there  are  few  occupations  more  laborious  than  whaling. 

But  to  return.  Our  skipper  was  cast  in  the  mould  of  perseve- 
rance ;  instead  of  a  single  blanket-piece,  as  predicted  by  some,  we 
fairly  stripped  the  carcass ;  but  the  head,  with  its  rich  store  of 
spermaceti,  we  could  not  save,  and  with  its  loss  vanished  our  antici- 
pations of  iArory  teeth  and  "  scrimshoning."  Before  cutting  adrift 
from  it,  I  had  a  good  view  of  its  "  square"  head,  and  long,  narrow 
jaw,  armed  with  its  white  teeth,  and  pendent  in  the  water.  The  sea 
in  our  vicinity  was  literally  covered  with  albatrosses,  boobies,  petrels, 
and  other  oceanic  birds,  giving  a  lively  effect  to  the  scene.  Some 


66  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

bold  bird  would  dart  at  the  carcass  almost  beneath  the  spade,  and 
tearing  off  a  portion  with  its  sharp  beak,  would  fly  away,  to  be  in  his 
turn  pounced  upon  by  his  fellows,  while  their  harsh,  discordant 
cries  mingled  with  the  shrill  piping  of  the  gale. 

Having  cut  adrift,  we  wore  round,  and  scudded  away  under  reefed 
topsails.  It  blew  too  hard  to  think  of  lighting  fires  that  night,  and 
all  our  efforts  were  directed  towards  clearing  up  ship.  Ashes  were 
scattered  upon  deck  for  security  of  footing,  and  all  superfluous 
lumber  was  stowed  away  in  some  nook  or  other.  Before  nightfall 
we  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  Planet  in  tolerable  order, 
and  heartily  wearied  with  our  day's  work,  we  sought  refuge  in  our 
bunks,  to  await  the  events  of  the  morrow. 


CHAPTER   X. 

"BILIN*  OUT,"  AND  ITS  INCIDENTS. 

THE  morrow  came,  and  with  it  an  abatement  of  the  gale,  where- 
upon preparations  were  made  accordingly.  Many  were  the  mu- 
tual congratulations  among  the  officers  at  their  good  fortune.  Mr. 
Grasper,  with  arms  akimbo  and  an  air  of  martyrdom,  declared  that, 
"  for  his  part,  he  didn't  care  whether  they  took  oil  enough  to  fill 
•cabin  and  all,  for  he  could  stow  himself  away  in  the  maintop." 
Mr.  Gurrie,  too,  professed  himself  perfectly  willing  to  "  give  bedding 
and  bunk  a  free  passage  over  the  fore-sheet,  if  necessary ;"  while 
Messrs.  Short  and  Easy  reverently  nodded  their  heads  in  ap- 
proval. 

Such  a  mustering  of  old  garments  !  Complete  "  tarring  down" 
suits,  and  "  jumpers"  greasy  with  age,  were  forthcoming  ;  and  then, 
indeed,  for  the  first,  and  for  some  of  us  the  last  time,  we  indulged  in 
the  realities  of  whaling.  The  carpenter  was  at  the  block  with  his 
knife,  and  the  boat-steerers  mustered  around  the  boiling  apparatus. 
Folger'and  Weasle,  spade  in  hand,  were  sent  below  to  the  blubber- 
room,  and  a  requisite  number  were  stationed  near  the  hatchway  to 


A  Victim  to  Persecution.  67 

pitch  horse-pieces,  and  others  to  pass  them  to  the  boiler,  after  they 
had  been  minced.  Some  three  or  four  of  us  had  the  bitterest  pill  to 
digest,  (so  thought  I  at  the  time,)  for,  with  sleeves  rolled  up  to  our 
elbows,  with  hand-brushes  we  scrubbed  the  "  gurry"  from  the  bul- 
warks with  lye.  Captain  Buck  bustled  about  with  great  officious- 
ness,  and  I  give  him  credit  for  being  versed  in  all  the  mysteries  of 
his  profession.  The  starting  of  a  hoop  or  the  removal  of  a  stave 
must  be  done  with  precision  ;  like  a  skilful  general,  his  glance  was 
everywhere.  There  was  no  use  in  Mr.  Grasper  endeavoring  to  look 
fierce  that  day,  or  assuming  any  of  his  terrific  scowls,  for  in  almost 
every  instance  he  broke  down,  and  usually  wound  up  his  abortive 
attempts  at  severity  with  one  of  his  dry  jokes. 

Before  we  were  fairly  under  way,  I  recollect  seeing  Chips,  who 
had  served  an  apprenticeship  as  supernumerary  in  one  of  our 
theatres,  and  whose  personifications  of  I  ago,  or  the  victim  of  Bos- 
worth  Field,  would  frequently  distract  him  in  the  midst  of  his  occu- 
pation, go  to  the  "  comings"  of  the  hatch  and  exclaim,  as  he  stared 
down  with  a  haughty  look  at  Folger,  his  inveterate  enemy — 

"  What !  will  the  aspiring  blood  of  Lancaster 
Sink  in  the  ground  1     I  thought  it  would  have  mounted." 

Folger  brandished  his  spade  for  an  instant,  and  I  thought  he 
would  have  thrown  it ;  but  better  counsel  prevailed,  for  a  moment 
after,  he  plunged  it  more  fiercely  than  ever  into  the  greasy  mountain 
before  him,  cutting  away  indiscriminately  to  the  right  and  left,  with- 
out regard  to  the  proportion  of  his  horse-pieces,  until  poor  Weasle 
fled  aghast ;  and  well  he  might,  for.  in  less  than  ten  minutes  Folger 
was  assisted  upon  deck  with  a  frightful  gash  in  his  right  foot,  so 
that  he  was  hors  du  combat  for  the  lime.  The  spade,  like  the  adze, 
is  a  dangerous  implement  in  the  hands  of  an  inexperienced  person, 
and  should  be  used  with  the  utmost  caution.  One  circumstance 
alone, .of  almost  daily  occurrence,  served  to  keep  Mr.  Folger's  antip- 
athy green  in  his  memory,  and  that  was,  the  partiality  of  the  car- 
penter for  his  services  to  aid  him  in  sharpening  his  tools  ;  this  being 
countenanced  by  Mr.  Grasper,  he  never  resumed  his  positi'on  at  the 
crank  of  the  grindstone  without  vowing  vengeance,  while  the  rapidity 


68  Reef-Ravings  in  the  South  Seas. 

of  its  revolutions,  an  index  to  his  sentiments,  frequently  called  forth 
an  encomium  from  his  tormentor. 

The  work  of  boiling  commenced.  Thick  volumes  of  smoke  roll- 
ing upwards,  gave  the  Planet's  drapery  a  dingy  hue,  an<jl  sometimes 
the  eddying  wind  would  whirl  the  smoke  in  our  faces,  nearly  driving 
us  from  our  occupation.  To  turn  from  the  snowy  mountains  and 
look  at  the  fires,  which,  with  their  greasy  fuel  hissing  and  crackling, 
were  burning  merrily,  was  a  pleasant  but  tantalizing  sight.  It  would 
have  been  unsafe  to  venture  in  close  proximity  to  them,  for,  inde- 
pendently of  the  execration  such  trespassing  would  merit,  I  have  seen 
more  potent  arguments  resorted  to,  and  the  offender  driven  forth 
amid  a  shower  of  scraps.  Still,  we  had  reason  to  be  grateful.  Our 
first  whale  had  been  taken,  and  the  weather  was  favorable  for  boiling 
out ;  besides,  the  wind  was  fair,  and  we  had  every  prospect  of  a 
speedy  passage  around  the  Cape,  to  warmer  latitudes  in  the  broad 
Pacific. 

Night  came  at  last,  but  with  it  no  cessation  from  toil.  The  fires 
sent  forth  a  lurid  glow,  and  we  pitched  and  minced  by  their  light ; 
during  occasional  intervals  of  relaxation,  we  managed  to  keep  our 
eyes  open  by  sleepy  jokes.  There  was  with  us  an  old  whaleman 
we  called  Sampson — not  from  any  resemblance  to  that  Israelite's  dis- 
tinguishing quality,  for,  on  the  contrary,  he  was  simple,  and  not 
overburdened  with  strength.  He  had  recently  returned  from  a  three 
years'  cruise  indebted  some  ten  or  twelve  dollars  to  the  owners,  who 
generously  forgave  it — an  act  of  charity  alone  that  entitles  them  to 
flexible  medals.  He  felt  uncommonly  good-humored  that  night,  and 
entertained  me  with  many  a  tale  both  comic  and  tragic  relating  to 
whaling ;  then,  in  the  goodness  of  his  heart,  he  promised  me,  on  our 
arrival  at  Bedford,  to  take  me  to  a  "bunkum  outfitter"  he  knew,  where 
I  could  get  any  kind  of  shore  toggery  ("  none  of  your  slops")  I 
wanted  for  almost  half  price  ;  and  he  even  went  so  far  as  to  consult 
me  on  the  propriety  of  seamen  wearing  "claw-hammer  jackets" 
(dress-coats)  ashore. 

We  gossipped  until  the  propensity  to  sleep  was  irresistible,  and, 
complying  with  a  hint,  I  skulked  with  him  to  the  booby-hatch,  and 
watching  an  opportunity,  we  cautiously  descended  in  pitchy  dark- 
ness. Then  we  commenced  groping  towards  the  starboard  wing, 


A  Night  Scene  between  Decks.  69 

where  a  quantity  of  old  rigging  was  stowed.  Sampson  stumbled  over 
one  of  the  cutting  pendants,  arid  fell  against  a  stanchion,  yet  nothing 
but  a  suppressed  "  Murder"  escaped  him.  I  was  more  fortunate,  and 
reached  a  coil  of  rigging  without  accident,  and  feeling  about  to  as- 
certain the  precise  locality,  my  hands  encountered  something  that  I 
conjectured  to  be  a  pair  of  whiskers,  and  which  further  search  con- 
firmed, but  the  object  might  have  been  a  "corpse  as  regards  anima- 
tion. We  left  the  sleeper  to  his  dreams,  and  neither  Sampson  nor  I 
ever  discovered  who  it  was.  We  both  crawled  on  near  the  well- 
room,  where  some  old  sails  formed  an  inviting  couch,  but  had  hardly 
lain  down  before  the  aperture  through  which  we  had  descended  was 
darkened  by  the  outline  of  a  human  figure  ;  then  we  heard  the  mea- 
sured tread  of  some  one  coming  down  the  ladder,  then  another  and 
another  succeeded,  until  I  "began  to  think  the  whole  watch  had  de- 
serted the  deck. 

"  I  believe  they've  tracked  our  wake,"  whispered  Sampson,  start- 
ing up  ;  then,  disguising  his  voice,  he  said,  as  gruffly  as  he  could,  in 
a  low  tone,  "  Go  back,  you  sogers,  go  back  !  use  a  little  judgment 
about  it ;  if  you  all  skulk,  you'll  have  old  quiddle  quaddle  (Mr.  G.) 
after  you."  But  there  came  not  a  word  out  of  the  darkness,  and  we 
could  hear  them,  like  ghosts  in  a  pantomime,  as  they  took  up  their 
positions  around  us.  A  deep,  heavy  breathing  soon  disturbed  the 
stillness,  and  I  judged  from  the  sound,  that  Sampson  was  snoring 
for  a  wager,  with  a  "  mezzo  soprano"  on  my  left.  I  slept,  and  none 
but  those  who  labor  know  the  sweets  of  reposing  on  the  misty  shores 
of  Lethe. 

After  a  brief  slumber,  I  was  awakened  by  some  one  pounding  and 
pinching  my  leg,  with  exclamations  of,  "  Oh  !  oh  !" 

"  Hallo  !  hallo  !  there.     Who's  that  pounding  me  ?" 

"  Oh  !  dear,  doctor,  is  that  you  ?  Do  just  take  your  boot-heel  out 
of  the  small  of  my  back,  for  I'm  wedged  in  here,  and  can't  stir." 

It  was  poor  Weasle.  He  had  extended  himself  fore  and  aft,  be- 
tween me  and  the  pump-well,  while  I  was  stretched  out  athwart- 
ships  ;  by  the  incessant  lee-lurching  of  the  ship,  I  had  gradually  slid 
to  leeward,  until  my  feet  came  in  contact  with  the  first  thing  that 
could  give  me  steady  support,  and  which  proved  to  be  the  spine  of 
Weasle.  I  lost  np  time  in  relieving  him  from  his  painful  predica- 


70  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

ment,  and  giving  him  a  place  beside  me.  It  must  have  hurt  him,  for 
he  told  me  "  he  dreamt  he  was  a  whale,  and  that  Mr.  Grasper  had 
fastened  to  him." 

Again  we  slept,  but  it  could  not  have  been  long  before  every 
sleeper  was  simultaneously  aroused,  and  on  the  alert,  by  a  well- 
known  bellowing  at  the  scuttle. 

"  In  the  name  of  Moses  !  Tumble  up  here,  every  — • —  soger  of 
you!  Don't  let  me  get  my  boarding-pikes  afoul  of  you  ;  if  you  do, 
I'll  make  the  horse-pieces  fly." 

"  Marlin-spikes  and  cat-harpins  !"  whispered  Sampson. 

Then  there  was  a  pause,  for  no  one  answered.  Every  man  felt 
himself  too  strongly  intrenched  to  risk  a  battle  in  the  open  field  ;  for 
we  could  see,  without  being  seen,  and  Mr.  Grasper,  on  his  part,  was 
too  skilful  a  general  to  storm  a  fortress  single-handed,  without  a  per- 
fect knowledge  of  the  enemy's  strength ;  he  knew,  too,  that  he  had 
made  some  bitter  enemies.  For  my  part,  I  contemplated  beating  a 
retreat  through  a  dangerous  defile  of  casks  and  lumber  out  into  the 
blubber-room,  and  thence  to  the  deck,  but  second  thought  convinced 
me  that  it  would  be  impracticable  in  the  darkness. 

A  violent  stamping  and  a  volley  of  imprecations  came  next,  but 
we  answered  not  a  gun.  He  then  had  recourse  to  another  system 
of  tactics. 

"  You,  War'ick!  You,  Weasle  !  You,  Brown  !  Answer  me  this 
instant,  every  one  of  you.  I  know  you're  there." 

"  Aye,  aye,  sir  ;  I'm  comin',"  said  Warwick,  without  attempting  a 
parley. 

"  Shall  I  answer  ?"  whispered  Weasle  to  me. 

"  Yes  ;  be  quick  !" 

"  Sir !" 

"  Oho  !  So  you've  woke  up  at  last !  Up  you  come,  sir,  before  I 
get  my  grappling-irons  on  to  you  and  taughten  your  weather-leach." 

"  I  can't  go,"  again  whispered  Weasle  ;  "  I'm  afraid  he'll  misuse 
me,  he  talks  so  savage.  Dear  me  !  why  didn't  I  stop  in  the  blubber- 
room  !" 

I  told  him  to  follow  close  upon  the  heels  of  Warwick,  who  had 
now  commenced  ascending  the  ladder,  and  who  would  be  the  first 
to  confront  Mr.  Grasper  ;  and  by  watching  his  opportunity,  he  might 


Distressing  Maladies.  71 

slip  away  unperceived.  He  did  so,  and  escaped  without  notice  ;  but 
the  moment  Warwick  emerged  from  the  scuttle,  the  powerful  hand 
of  Mr.  Grasper  was  upon  him,  and  I  believe  that  here  he  expended 
his  pent-up  rage,  for  we  could  hear  a  shuffling  of  feet  on  deck,  while 
his  tongue,  like  a  swivel  on  pivot  amidships,  was  rolling  out  grape 
and  cannister ;  among  his  invectives,  the  words  "  Jupiter  !"  "  Moses  !" 
and  "  Mince-meat!"  were  conspicuous. 

.  At  Sampson's  suggestion,  we  all  started  en  masse,  and  crowding 
out  of  the  scuttle,  marched  down  the  deck  in  close  array  to  the  scene 
of  our  labors,  where  we  filed  away  unmolested  to  our  respective 
duties. 

Nothing  of  further  interest  occurred  during  the  night.  It  only 
remains  to  be  said,  that  in  a  day  or  two  all  our  horse-pieces  were 
"  tried  out,"  and  the  oil,  which  did  not  exceed  thirty  barrels,  was 
stowed  away  in  well-coopered  casks  in  the  lower  hold.  I  had  al- 
most forgotten  to  mention,  that  while  boiling,  a  merchantman  came 
rolling  down  to  us  before  the  wind  to  procure  a  supply  of  tobacco, 
which  we  furnished  him. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

"CAPE    HORN    FEVER." 

OUR  anticipations  of  fine  weather  off  Cape  Horn  were  soon  put 
to  flight,  for  we  were  driven  by  adverse  winds  as  far  as  the  fifty- 
eighth  degree  of  south  latitude.  "  As  the  days  begin  to  lengthen, 
the  cold  begins  to  strengthen,"  thought  some  of  our  number.  It 
was  January,  and  for  more  than  eighteen  hours  out  of  the  twenty- 
four  the  sun  was  above  the  horizon. 

In  less  than  a  week,  our  sick-list  had  increased  to  an  alarming 
degree.  Among  the  catalogue  of  ills  were  head,  tooth,  and  a  variety 
of  aches ;  besides,  there  were  symptoms  of-,decline,  and  morbid  ap- 
petites accompanied  by  indigestion,  but  by  far  the  greater  portion 
consisted  of  chronic  rheumatism.  To  treat  this  medley,  I  was  vested 
with  full  discretional  powers  to  act  as  the  emergency  might  require, 


72  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

and  even  a  superficial  observer  would  have  been  at  no  loss  to  assign 
to  most  of  these  maladies  their  true  cause.  For  the  credit  of  the 
recruits,  I  will  state  that  the  epidemic  was  not  confined  to  them 
alone  ;  among  those  laid  up  with  the  most  trivial  disorders  were 
some  of  the  oldest  seamen  on  board.  Like  the  Salem  witchcraft,  it 
had  progressed  too  far,  and  our  officers  were  led  seriously  to  reflect 
upon  its  probable  duration. 

Mr.  Grasper  came  on  deck  one  morning,  determined  to  have  a 
general  hospital  delivery. 

"  Doctor,  what  men  are  those  sick  below  ?" 

"  Old  Bill,  Sampson,  Fol— 

"  There,  there,  that'll  do  ;  steady's  you  go.  We'll  begin  with  Old 
Bill.  What's  the  matter  with  him  ?" 

"  Toothache,  sir." 

"  Toothache,  hey !  What  kind  of  a  sickness  is  that  for  an  old 
man-o'-wax's-man  like  him  to  knock  off  with  1  Why  don't  you  pull 
it,  and  not  let  him  make  a  loblolly  boy  of  you  ?" 

"  I  offered  to  do  so  ;  but  he  says  it's  ulcerated,  and  that  all  of  his 
teeth  have  four  curved  prongs.  The  last  dentist  l^e  applied  to 
frac » 

"  Hold  on  !  hold  on  !  Mrs.  Grasper  in  the  bullrushes  !  Order  him 
up  there,  Mr.  Short !" 

"  Bill !"  called  that  officer  at  the  scuttle  ;  "  you  are  wanted  on 
deck !  Come,  bundle  up  here  in  a  hurry." 

And  bundle  up  he  did  as  soon  as  practicable,  with  his  meagre  face 
swathed  up  in  strips  of  old  flannel,  and  over  all  was  fastened  a  soiled 
guernsey  frock,  something  after  the  fashion  of  an  Esquimaux  hood. 
He  made  a  desperate  effort  to  look  faint. 

Mr.  Grasper  and  .the  bystanders  could  hardly  suppress  a  smile. 
The  former  stepped  up,  and  laying  his  hand  upon  his  shoulder,  with 
an  air  of  mock  kindness,  said,  "  William,  my  boy.  what  ails  you  ?" 
I  will  here  premise  that  it  would  have  been  difficult  to  determine 
which  was  the  senior  in  years. 

"  Oh,  Mr.  Grasper !  if  you  knew  what  a  dreadful  state  my  face  is 
in.  I  haint  had  a  wink  of  sleep  for  the  last  three  nighta,"  and  then 
he  fetched  a  groan. 

"  Sawry  ;  I'm  sawry,  William.     Take  that  chafin  gear  off  o'  your 


Nautical  Dentistry.  73 


head,  and  let  me  have  a  look  ;  perhaps  I  can  do  something  for  you. 
Why,  your  eyes  look  like  a  couple  of  grummet-holes  !" 

"  I'm  afraid  I  shall  catch  cold,  and  get  the  toothache  worse 
for " 

"  O,  no,  you  won't ;  the  doctor  '11  be  responsible  for  that,  won't 
you  ?" 

I  nodded  in  affirmation. 

Piece  by  piece  Bill  removed  the  drapery  from  his  head,  and  look 
at  him  as  you  would,  there  were  no  signs  of  protrusion  or  ulceration 
on  either  cheek. 

"  Your  face  don't  look  sore,  William  ;  perhaps  it's  your  tooth  that 
aches  ?" 

"  Yes,  sir,  dreadfully." 

"  Doctor,  go  and  get  your  irons." 

I  requested  permission  to  make  an  examination,  to  ascertain 
whether  the  case  required  the  turnkey  or  the  forceps,  but  he  opened 
his  mouth  with  so  much  reluctance,  that  I  could  make  nothing  out  of 
his  directions,  so  I  deferred  my  observations  until  I  had  returned 
with  both  instruments. 

A  considerable  elongation  in  his  features  had  taken  place  during 
my  absence,  and  when  he  saw  the  cold,  shining  steel,  he  declared 
that  his  "  toothache  was  gone,  and  he'd  rather  not  have  it  pulled," 
then  resolutely  pursed  up  his  mouth. 

"  Come,  Bill,"  said  I,  "  don't  be  babyish  ;  think  of  those  seven  men 
you  killed  on  board  the  opium  clipper."  But  my  appeals  were  in 
vain,  for  he  maintained  the  firmness  of  a  stoic. 

"  Open  those  scouse-coolers  this  minute,  or  I'll  pry  'em  open  with 
a  marlin-spike  !"  exclaimed  Mr.  Grasper,  showing  his  true  colors,  and 
seizing  Bill  by  the  collar.  "  Down  you  go,  there,  agin  the  bitts — 
open  your  mouth,  I  say." 

Making  a  virtue  of  necessity,  Bill  sat  down  upon  deck,  and  leaned 
against  the  bitts,  and  with  many  entreaties  for  me  not  to  hurt  him, 
opened  his  mouth.  Nothing  can  be  more  annoying  to  an  operator 
than  the  infantile  quibbles  of  his  subject,  and  when  they  come  from 
one  grown  gray  with  hard  knocks,  the  dentist  should  be  a  prodigy  of 
patience.  As  soon  as  I  had  the  opportunity,  I  made  a  liberal  inci- 
sion with  the  usual  instrument,  and  applying  the  forceps,  despite  his 


74  Recf-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

kicks  and  struggles,  T  laid  the  cause  of  his  woes  in  his  lap.  A  pro- 
longed groan  escaped  him,  and  the  tears  actually  trickled  down  his 
cheeks.  With  a  salutary  admonition,  he  was  ordered  to  appear  on 
deck  when  eight  bells  were  struck. 

"  Let  me  see,"  continued  Mr.  Grasper :  "  there's  Folger,  I  haint 
seen  his  face  in  some  time.  Show  him  up." 

Mr.  Folger  made  his  appearance,  and  went  to  the  weather  side, 
then  leaning  upon  the  bulwarks,  he  looked  out  upon  the  water.  O  ! 
for  a  sympathizing  friend  at  that  moment  to  share  his  meditations  ! 
But  he  saw  nothing  save  the  dull  bank  of  clouds  in  the  horizon,  and 
the  dreary  waste  of  ocean,  where  each  heavy  wave  that  rolled  across 
the  monotony  seemed  an  incubus  to  his  melancholy.  The  snowy 
albatross,  with  its  broad,  extended  wings,  sailed  swiftly  by,  as  if,  in 
its  free  and  joyous  flight,  it  sported  amid  warring  elements,  and 
mocked  his  misery. 

For  a  moment  Mr.  Grasper's  attention  was  occupied  with  issuing 
some  necessary  order,  which  Folger  hearing,  hastily  whispered  to 
me,  using  my  name  instead  of  the  "  handle." 

"  Tell  that  ogre  I'm  sick — dying,  anything  you  please,  so  that  I 
can  keep  out  of  his  sight ;  but  above  all  things,  pray  don't  let  him 
prescribe  that  villanous  compound  of  his." 

Further  requests  were  interrupted  by  the  return  of  his  inquisitor, 
who,  in  this  instance,  assumed  one  of  his  affectionate  looks,  and  lay- 
ing one  hand  upon  Folger's  forehead,  and  the  other  upon  his  chin,  as 
a  veterinary  surgeon  would  do  in  a  similar  emergency,  he  proceeded 
deliberately  to  open  Ijis  mouth  and  look  at  his  tongue.  Although 
that  organ  did  not  protrude  to  exceed  an  inch,  Mr.  Grasper  professed 
himself  satisfied,  and  expressed  a  conviction  that  it  indicated  an 
"  unhealthy  tone  of  the  diaphragm." 

"  Feel  of  his  pulse,  doctor  ;  feel  of  his  pulse,  and  let  us  know  what 
you  think  of  him." 

I  complied,  but  could  detect  nothing  in  the  arterial  throbbing  that 
would  indicate  a  derangement  of  the  system.  Folger  hardly  knew 
which  way  to  look  to  keep  his  countenance. 

"  What  do  you  say  ?  Let's  bleed  him,"  said  Mr.  Grasper,  looking 
fierce. 

Folger  raised  his  eyes  with  an  expression  of  horror. 


Mr.  Folger  s  Affliction.  75 

Not  seeing  the  necessity  of  resorting  to  "  flea-bottom-me,"  I  coun- 
selled otherwise. 

"  I'll  tell  you,  doctor,  what  I  think  '11  bring  him  'round — a  large 
handful  of  salts,  dissolved  in  a  quart  of  warm  water." 

"Mr.  Grasper!" 

"  Why,  that's  nothing  at  all ;  it's  a  great  deal  milder  than  to  set 
down  by  a  bucket  of  salt-water,  and  sip  it  with  a  tea-spoon  until  you 
feel  better." 

As  nearly  as  I  can  judge,  he  made  me  put  between  three  and  four 
ounces  of  epsom  salts  into  a  tin  pot,  which  I  took  to  the  galley  and 
filled  about  two-thirds  full  of  warm  water  ;  and  the  fair  Rosamond 
never  received  the  poisoned  goblet  with  more  reluctance  than  did 
Folger  the  rusty  tin  pot,  with  its  nauseous  dose.  I  wash  my  hands 
clean  of  this  affair  ;  should  this  ever  meet  the  eye  of  Mr.  Folger, 
of  whose  whereabouts  I  have  been  ignorant  for  the  last  five  years, 
I  beg  him  to  remember  that  the  deed  was  not  perpetrated  at  my 
suggestion. 

There  are  times  when  great  minds,  beset  by  difficulties,  rise  man- 
fully to  assert  their  greatness,  and,  like  wounded  stags,  turn  at  bay 
to  defy  their  persecutors.  Such  was  the  spirit  manifested  by 
Folger  on  this  occasion  ;  placing  the  cup  calmly  upon  the  carpenter's 
bench,  he  coolly  returned  the  withering  look  of  Mr.  Grasper. 

"  You  have  given  me  an  over-dose,  sir ;  and  I  don't  mean  to  make 
a  drug-store  of  my  bowels  to  accommodate  any  man/' 

"  Mercy  on  us !  Now,  don't  go  to  sea,  Abram,  won't  you.  Why, 
doctor,  we've  got  an  Esculapius  in  disguise  !"  Then  to  Folger — 
"  Look  you  here,  my  lark,  your  wings  ain't  fledged  enough  to  fly  far 
yet  ;  if  you  go  to  showing  '  black-skin,'  I  shall  touch  you  under  the 
'  life,'  arid  set  you  spouting  blood  in  just  seventeen  and  three-quar- 
ter seconds." 

"  There's  reason  in  all  things,  sir.  A  part,  if  -you  compel  me  to, 
I  drink  ;  but  the  whole — never  !" 

Bravo,  Folger!  That  was"  bearding  a  Douglas  in  his  hall;" 
but  your  temerity  availed  you  nothing.  By  threats,  accompanied 
with  an  ominous  brandishing  of  one  of  his  "  boarding-pikes,"  he 
compelled  his  unwilling  patient  to  carry  the  cup  to  his  lips,  when 
a  spasmodic  twitching  in  the  epigastric  region  was  perceptible  to  all 


76  Reef -Roving  s  in  the  South  Seas. 

"  Drink,  drink !  or  I'll  put  a  tunnel  down  your  throat." 

Folger  took  one  swallow,  and  the  same  phenomenon  again  occur- 
red ;  but  his  tormentor  was  resolute,  and  he  was  compelled  to  force 
down  about  half  a  pint :  after  which  Nature  would  be  obeyed,  and  a 
violent  retching  was  relieved  at  the  lee  bulwarks.  For  a  short 
time  after  this  he  was  sick  in  earnest;  but  when  he  recovered,  the  les- 
son was  not  forgotten. 

Half  a  dozen  others  were  summoned  up,  and  their  cases  disposed 
of  with  less  ceremony  ;  the  result  was  that,  out  of  nine  or  ten  seri- 
ous maladies,  but  three  persons  were  really  invalids. 

I  will  close  this  chapter  by  mentioning  an  accident  that  happened 
at  this  time  to  our  cook.  For  years  he  had  been  near-sighted  in  his 
right  eye,  and  which  at  times  he  found  to  be  very  inconvenient.  One 
morning,  in  coming  from  the  forecastle,  his  sound  eye  came  in  col- 
lision with  the  windlass-brake,  with  such  violence  that  for  a  time  he 
was  deprived  of  the  use  of  it.  I  gave  him  almost  the  only  remedy 
I  had,  a  weak  solution  of  sulphate  of  zinc,  of  which  he  made  two 
or  three  applications  during  the  day,  and  by  night  found  himself  con- 
siderably relieved.  Had  he  rested  here,  all  might  have  gone  well  ; 
but  not  comprehending  the  principle  of  inverse  ratio,  he  adopted  the 
axiom,  that  like  causes  produce  like  effects,  adding,  in  unlimited 
proportion.  Consequently,  during  the  night  he  deluged  his  eyes  with 
the  solution,  so  that  by  morning  he  was  an  object  of  commiseration, 
for  he  was  totally  blind  and  a  laughing-stock  to  the  crew.  He  did 
not  fully  recover  the  use  of  his  visual  organs  for  several  days  after 
his  ill-timed  experiment. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

JUAN  FERNANDEZ,  AND  WHAT  HAPPENED  THERE. 


WHAT  cool  and  delightful  evenings  !  How  brightly  the  full  moon 
rises  from  behind  the  white  clouds,  and  steadily  pursues  her  course 
through  the  blue  ether,  while  our  ship,  as  she  dashes  along,  joyfully 


The  Home  of  Selkirk.  77 

welcomes  the  southeast  wind.  Some  of  the  inmates  of  the  deep 
seem  influenced  by  Nature's  harmony  ;  for  many  a  phosphorescent 
streak  marks  the  course  of  porpoises  and  albicore  in  their  gambols 
alongside  and  under  the  vessel's  bow.  We  were  sailing  down  the 
coast  of  Chili,  and,  after  seeing  nothing  but  sky  and  sea,  together 
with  a  few  barren  mountains,  for  more  than  four  months,  our  eyes 
were  to  be  gladdened  on  the  morrow  by  the  green  hills  of  Juan  Fer- 
nandez. 

For  the  objects  of  our  voyage,  it  was  not  necessary  that  we  should 
visit  this  island ;  but  dissensions  having  arisen  among  the  officers,  it 
was  determined  by  mutual  consent  that  Mr.  Gurrie,  bag  and  baggage, 
should  be  left  here.  These  difficulties  had  extended  to  the  crew, 
each  siding  with  his  favorite  officer,  if  favoritism  could  exist ;  so 
that  anything  approximating  to  Odd-fellowship  among  them  had  long 
since  vanished.  It  was  rumored,  and  confidently  believed  by  some, 
that  at  the  critical  moment  Mr.  Gurrie  would  renounce  his  intention  ; 
but  their  estimate  of  his  character  was  too  superficial.  He  had  said 
that,  "  if  there  was  a  rock  in  the  ocean  big  enough  to  hold  him,  he'd 
leave  the  ship ;"  and  he  was  not  a  man  to  be  diverted  by  trifles. 

The  wished»for  morning  came  ;  far  ahead  something  like  a  faint 
cloud  was  seen  in  the  horizon,  and  the  welcome  cry  of  "  Land,  O !" 
was  heard  once  more.  We  were  dashing  rapidly  along  before  the 
wind,  and  soon  the  "  cloud,"  at  first  barely  discernible,  loomed  more 
distinctly,  and  the  delicate  tracery  of  mountain,  hill,  and  ravine  was 
pencilled  in  mist.  Gradually  the  sunlight  burst  forth,  and  the  light 
vapors  stealing  along  the  mountain-side,  relief,  up  to  the  summit  and 
disappeared  ;  Nature's  handiwork  in  its  beauty  and  sublimity  was  be- 
fore us.  There  were  deep  valleys,  whose  furrowed  sides  were 
clothed  with  a  sea  of  verdure,  sweeping  upwards  in  gentle  undula- 
tions to  the  dark  ridges.  Everything  wore  an  air  of  inspiriting 
freshness,  that  can  only  be  appreciated  by  those  who  have  long 
been  sojourners  upon  the  ocean.  In  a  miniature  bay,  and  stand- 
ing off-and-on,  was  a  bark,  her  white  sails  in  beautiful  contrast  with 

the  dark-green  foliage.  It  proved  to  be  the  C ,  of  S , 

Captain  D ;  her  boats  were  ashore,  engaged  in  fishing.  Of  the 

finny  tribe  an  abundance  may  be  found  in  these  waters,  and  they 
are  easily  taken. ' 


78  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

In  due  season,  the  main  yard  was  hauled  aback,  and  preparations 
for  landing  Mr.  Gurrie  commenced.  The  starboard  boat  was  first 
lowered,  into  which  jumped  Captain  Buck  with  a  picked  crew,  who 
pulled  off  for  the  bark,  probably  to  seek  advice  or  investigate  those 
points  of  law  touching  the  part  he  was  to  play  in  the  affair.  The 
result  of  their  deliberations  we  could  never  learn  ;  we  only  know 
that  when  he  returned,  he  drew  up  a  paper  stating  that  "  he  (Mr. 
Gurrie)  was  acting  of  his  own  free  will,  and  that  he  (Mr.  Gurrie) 
relieved  Captain  Buck  from  any  consequences  that  might  ensue." 
This  interesting  document  was  formally  signed,  sealed,  and  delivered 
in  the  presence  of . 

Then  arose  a  murmur  of  discontent  among  the  brethren,  especially 
the  starboard  watch.  With  all  his  failings,  Mr.  Gurrie  was  a  good 
seaman,  and  never  indulged  in  familiarity  with  his  subordinates. 
He  was  a  man  who  in  storm  or  calm  was  cool  and  self-possessed, 
and  in  matters  pertaining  to  seamanship,  a  person  in  whom  we  had 
every  confidence.  I  reverted  to  the  days  of  Robinson  Crusoe  and 
Selkirk,  and  to  the  adventures  of  the  latter  the  case  of  Mr.  Gurrie 
bore  a  strong  resemblance.  Alexander  Selkirk,  an  officer,  became 
dissatisfied  with  Captain  Stradling,  and  declared  that  rather  than  be 
"  straddled"  over  by  him  any  longer,  he  preferred  remaining  upon  an 
uninhabited  island  in  the  midst  of  the  ocean.  Hezekiah  Gurrie,  Jr., 
an  officer,  became  dissatisfied  with  Captain  Buck,  and  declared  that 
rather  than  be  "  bucked"  about  by  him  any  longer,  he  preferred  re- 
maining upon  any  rock  or  island  in  the  middle  of  the  ocean.  When 
I  saw  his  athletic  proportions  clothed  with  a  pair  of  dark-blue 
trowsers  and  shirt  of  the  same  color,  over  which  a  pair  of  broad 
white  suspenders  were  crossed,  I  thought  it  needed  but  the  huge 
chako  and  musket  to  complete  his  equipment  as  a  grenadier.  His 
chest,  bedding,  and  other  little  items  of  personal  comfort,  were 
brought  up  and  lowered  into  the  boat,  together  with  a  quantity  of 
beef,  pork,  and  sea-biscuit ;  last  of  all,  he  shook  hands  with  us,  ac- 
companied by  the  usual  "  so'-lorig,"  and  descended  himself. 

Mr.  Grasper,  who  commanded  the  boat,  had  been  exceedingly 
officious  that  morning,  arising  perhaps  from  a  consciousness  of  the 
responsible  duty  he  was  called  upon  to  perform ;  he  even  conde- 
scended to  hint  to  me  that  he  anticipated  nothing  short  of  open 


A  Conspiracy.  79 


mutiny,  headed  by  Mr.  Gurrie  himself,  so  soon  as  the  boat  should 
reach  the  shore,  and  had  consequently  provided  himself  with  a  brace 
of  pistols  and  a  sheath-knife.  With  a  picked  crew  the  boat  shoved 
off,  Mr.  G.  waving  farewell ;  the  old  cooper,  who  was  given  to  the 
"  melting  mood,"  dropped  a  tear  to  his  memory. 

We  watched  its  receding  form  until  it  reached  the  shore,  where 
it  remained  about  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  returned,  nothing  having 
occurred  to  disturb  Mr.  Grasper's  equanimity.  Mr.  Gurrie  had  again 
shaken  hands  with  the  boat's  crew,  wishing  them  "  greasy  luck"  as 
he  assisted  to  shove  off  the  boat.  Although,  like  Selkirk,  he  pre- 
ferred solitude,  I  do  not  think  he  was  the  man  to  say, 

"  I  never  heard  a  sound  so  dismal  as  their  parting  oars." 

On  its  return,  the  boat  paid  a  visit  to  the  bark,  by  which  we  were 
favored  with  an  exchange  of  diet ;  for  it  brought  us  a  load  of  fish,  a 
luxury  after  sustaining  nature  so  long  upon  the  contents  of  the  "  har- 
ness cask." 

With  nothing  further  to  detain  us,  we  squared  the  main  yard,  up 
helm,  and  away,  the  bark  keeping  company ;  and  by  sunset  the  green 
hummock  of  Juan  Fernandez  loomed  dimly  in  the  twilight. 

That  night,  unknown  to  me,  a  demonstration  was  made  by  a  certain 
clique  in  behalf  of  their  absent  officer.  A  quantity  of  provision,  boat- 
compass,  sail,  and  other  necessaries,  were  secretly  stowed  away  in  the 
waist  boat ;  and  it  was  arranged  by  Mr.  Easy,  who  headed  the  plot,  and 
who  had  now  become  third  officer,  that  during  the  middle  watch, 
he,  the  cooper,  carpenter,  and  two  of  the  boat-steerers,  should  lower 
away,  the  fall  and  blocks  having  been  previously  greased  to  prevent 
noise,  and  return  to  the  island  we  had  just  left.  At  the  critical 
moment,  when  everything  was  prepared,  and  each  man  stood  by 
with  a  small  bundle  of  clothes,  the  cooper's  fortitude  deserted  him. 
The  "  old  bridge"  had  carried  him  safely  over ;  besides,  he  had 
broken  bread  and  eaten  salt  aboard  of  her,  and  why  then  shouldn't 
he  love  her  1  No ;  at  the  eleventh  hour  he  concluded  to  cling  to 
her.  like  an  affectionate  son  to  his  mother's  bosom.  She  had  never 
deserted  him,  and  he  would  never  desert  her.  Entreaties  and  ex- 
postulations were  unavailing ;  like  an  epidemic,  the  feeling  of  dis- 
affection extended  to  all,  and  the  plot  was  abandoned  through  the 


80  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

instability  of  one  of  its  members.  I  know  not  whether  Captain 
Buck  ever  heard  of  it,  nor  do  I  recollect  having  previously  men- 
tioned it. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

ON  ETIQUETTE,  DIGRESSING  TO  DOMESTIC  QUADRUPEDS. 

FOR  nearly  a  week  after  leaving  Juan  Fernandez,  we  "  gammed" 
(kept  company)  with  the  bark,  and  as  pertained  to  sailing  qual- 
ities, she  arid  the  Planet  were  pretty  fairly  matched,  although 
the  latter  was  considerably  the  larger  of  the  two.  The  monotony 
of  existence  was  thus  relieved  by  frequent  visits  to  each  other,  and 
which,  without  material  interference  with  our  duties,  was  an  agree- 
able and  useful  diversion.  It  changes  the  current  of  the  feelings 
that  are  perhaps  brooding  over  wrongs,  real  or  fancied,  and  relaxes 
for  a  moment  the  efforts  that  imply  fear  and  obey  !  Old  friendships 
are  burnished  up,  and  new  ones  cemented ;  besides,  new  faces  are 
seen,  and  new  voices  heard.  Compliments,  too,  in  their  way,  are 
exchanged ;  and  the  amicable  feeling  that  characterizes  an  inter- 
change of  sentiment  ashore  is  usually  maintained  at  a  "  gam."  If 
the  captain  with  the  starboard  boat's  crew  visits  his  neighbor,  the 
mate  of  the  vessel  visited  returns  with  the  crew  of  the  larboard  boat, 
and  vice  versa.  Upon  these  occasions,  I  have  been  told  that  the  re- 
spective cabins  are  disguised  by  extra  scrubbings,  and  fancy  table- 
covers  and  curtains  are  brought  forth  from  their  resting-places, 
where  they  have  become  mildewed.  I  can  testify  to  the  fact  of  sun- 
dry suspicious-looking  messes  having  been  brought  forward  to  un- 
dergo a  culinary  operation,  and  by  humoring  the  steward,  he  would 
now  and  then  indulge  me  with  "  soft  tack." 

It  came  my  turn  one  day  to  go  in  the  boat.  After  leaving  the 
captain  at  the  man-ropes,  the  warp  was  hove  on  deck,  and  the  boat 
hauled  forward  to  the  fore-chains,  up  which  the  crew  climbed  to  the 
bulwarks.  As  a  matter  of  courtesy,  one  of  the  bark's  crew  jumped 


Dancing — A  Misfortune.  81 

down  into  the  boat,  to  prevent  it  from  staving  against  the  ship's  side. 
We  are  prone  to  draw  comparisons  favorable  to  ourselves,  and  in 

this  instance,  I  flattered  myself  that  the  C was  in  every  respect 

inferior  to  the  Planet,  both  as  pertained  to  comfort  and  convenience, 
and  even  beauty,  for  everything  wore  a  slovenly  look,  from  the  main 
truck  to  the  water-way^.  Our  entertainers,  however,  were  assiduous 
in  their  endeavors  to  please.  I  shall  not  forget  the  kindness  of 
the  second  officer,  who  took  me  into  his  state-room  and  initiated 
me  into  the  mysteries  of  his  chest,  commenting  upon  each  article 
successively  drawn  forth.  They,  too,  had  taken  a  sperm  whale,  and 
the  till  of  his  chest  was  enriched  with  its  trophies.  He  kindly  pre- 
sented me  with  two  large  ivory  teeth,  explaining  minutely  the  process 
of  grinding  and  polishing  preparatory  to  "  scrimshoning." 

I  must  not  forget  to  mention  the  young  steward,  who  gave  me  a 
two-ounce  vial  of  porpoise-jaw  oil,  used  by  jewellers  for  watches, 
pure  and  clear  as  crystal ;  he  suggested,  that  for  greasing  razors 
it  was  far  superior  to  the  ordinary  process  of  "  slushing  them  with 
auguintum,"  (Ung.  Hyd.  Mite.) 

One  day  the  first  officer  of  the  C paid  us  a  visit,  and  among 

a  crew  of  various  climes  and  colors  was  one  of  Afric's  sable  sons,  in 
his  way  an  expert  dancer,  and  no  one  appreciated  this  agile  talent 
more  than  Mr.  Grasper.  I  at  one  time  thought  the  poor  negro 
was  condemned  to  martyrdom  to  gratify  his  mirthful  propensity. 
He  capered  to  a  charm,  at  least  so  most  of  us  thought ;  but  still 
Mr.  Grasper  would  have  it  that  the  right  heel  was  not  thrown  far 
enough  aft  at  the  terminus  of  each  figure.  With  the  perspiration 
streaming  from  him,  he  was  compelled  to  continue  his  antics  until 
he  satisfied  in  this  respect;  i.  e.,  in  one  grand  finale,  his  arms  and 
eyes  classically  raised,  with  a  slight  concavity  of  t^ie  spine,  and  the 
heel  thrown  back  at  an  angle  of  fifteen  degrees  from  the  true  per- 
pendicular of  the  body. 

For  more  than  a  week  we  continued  to  visit  by  day  and  signal- 
ize by  night,  and  some  began  to  hope  for  a  change  of  wind  that 
would  compel  "us  to  part  company.  Before  this  consummation,  an 
accident  occurred  that  gave  me  an  idea  of  my  importance.  Chips, 
by  some  unlucky  accident,  fell  from  the  between-decks  upon  a  tier 
of  casks  in  the  lower  hold,  and  was  removed  almost  senseless  to  his 

6 


82  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South'  Seas. 

work-bench  abaft  the  tryworks.  Instead  of  mending,  he  continued 
to  get  worse.  Weasle,  like  the  good  Samaritan,  offered  his  assist- 
ance, but  Folger  passed  by  with  a  disdainful  scowl.  I  had  recourse 
to  bleeding,  which  revived  him,  and  other  remedies  that  were  re- 
quired, I  hinted  it  would  be  necessary  to  procure  from  our  consort. 
A  boat  was  accordingly  lowered  and  placid  at  my  disposal;  this 
time  I  was  not  compelled  to  sit  upon  a  thawt  and  tug  at  the  oar,  but, 
seated  upon  the  gunwale,  I  was  entertained  by  the  lively  conversa- 
tion of  Mr.  Easy.  A  few  more  such  accidents,  and  I  might  have 
been  aspiring  enough  to  entertain  notions  of  superiority. 

Soon  after,  we  parted  company,  nor  did  we  meet  again  for  several 
weeks,  when,  by  a  singular  coincidence,  both  of  us  arrived  the  same 
day  at  Maui. 

Since  leaving  poft,  we  had  been  pestered  by  rats,  and  instead  of 
diminishing,  these  unwelcome  intruders  continued  to  increase  until 
they  became  an  insupportable  nuisance.  A  large  water-tank,  be- 
tween decks,  and  not  closely  covered,  had  a  pump  leading  to  it  from 
the  galley.  About  this  time  it  became  an  object  of  strong  sus- 
picion with  me,  owing  to  the  peculiar  taste  and  odor  of  the  water, 
suggesting  recollections  of  cats  in  a  well.  I  had  subsequent  rea- 
son to  believe  that  my  conjectures  were  well  founded :  upon  exam- 
ination, the  debris  at  the  bottom  of  the  tank  was  found  to  contain 
short  gray  hairs  and  detached  horny  substances,  bearing  a  close  re- 
semblance to  claws,  together  with  sundry  cartilaginous  shreds,  the 
whole  affording  strong  evidence  that  at  no  very  remote  period  ani- 
mal decomposition  had  taken  place. 

The  weather  being  favorable,  Captain  Buck  determined  upon  a  war 
of  extermination,  and  that  was,  a  thorough  smoking  out.  Accordingly, 
all  necessary  garments  were  brought  on  deck,  together  with  provi- 
sion sufficient  for  a  three  days'  smoke.  The  first  step  in  the  process 
was  to  calk  every  little  aperture  through  which  the  gases  might 
escape  ;  next,  a  huge  iron  pot  was  suspended  in  the  blubber-room, 
beneath  the  main  hatch,  and  into  this  was  thrown  tinder  for  ignit- 
ing, also  a  quantity  of  charcoal  and  sulphur,  so  that  the  rats,  instead 
of  snuffing  up  the  balmy  air  of  the  tropics,  were  to  be  suffocated  by 
the  combined  effects  of  carbon  and  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  The  fire 
having  been  lighted,  the  hatches  were  put  on,  calked,  and  carefully 


A  "  Rat-ification:1  83 


battened  down,  as  well  as  the  companionway,  steerage,  and  forecas- 
tle scuttles,  to  render  themes  nearly  air-tight  as  possible.  Of  course 
there  was  little  or  no  work  done  during  the  two  days  following ;  and 
the  weather  being  unexceptionably  fine,  we  enjoyed  the  temporary 
respite  from  our  labors. 

To  walk  the  hot  decks  of  a  ship  at  sea  over  a  burning  fire  pro- 
duces sensations  similar  to  those  occasioned  by  traversing  the  bed 
of  a  crater,  where  mephitic  vapors  ascending  from  deep  fissures  and 
subterranean  detonations,  evidence  the  element  that  is  raging  be- 
neath. I  could  not  help  calculating  to  a  nicety  our  distance  from  the 
coast  of  Peru,  the  prevailing  winds,  and  the  quantity  of  provision 
and  water  the  boats  would  carry,  each  with  its  respective  comple- 
ment of  men.  Fortunately,  we  had  no  occasion  to  resort  to  this  al- 
ternative, and  after  the  fires  had  burned  two  days,  the  hatches  were 
removed.  A  sufficient  time  having  been  allowed  for  the  escape  of 
the  foul  and  influx  of  fresh  air,  Mr.  Short  was  requested  to  descend 
to  make  observations,  with  the  salutary  caution  to  scream  in  case  he 
found  himself  suffocated.  But  the  rats  were  "  game,"  and  although 
many  of  them  lay  stretched  in  death,  the  sleek  sides  of  more  than 
one  of  them  were  palpitating  on  the  cabin  floor.  Again  the  hatches 
were  replaced,  battened  down,  and  continued  so  during  the  remainder 
of  the  day,  and  that  following,  after  which  they  were  removed,  and 
the  rats  thrown  overboard  by  scores  ;  though  not  quite  exterminated, 
they  gave  us  no  further  inconvenience  during  the  remainder  of  the 
passage. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

A  CALM,  ITS  INCIDENTS,  AND  CONCLUSION. 

A  CALM  at  sea  has  its  inconveniences  :  the  rolling  of  the  ship,  the 
flapping  of  sails,  and  the  glassy  surface  of  the  ocean  that  radiates 
with  intensity  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun,  seem  to  betoken  a  pause 
in  existence  ;  the  lull  of  voices,  the  almost  painful  silence  that  reigns 
on  board  and  around,  suggest  reflections  upon  a  universe  without 


84  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

animation.  If  it  occur  at  evening,  I  know  of  no  place  better  adapt- 
ed to  quiet  meditation  ;  the  very  atmosphere  seems  to  possess  a  sooth- 
ing power,  and  resigning  yourself  passively  to  its  influence,  a  pleasing 
train  of  emotions  will  be  awakened,  harmonizing  with  surrounding 
objects. 

We  were  becalmed  one  day  near  the  line  ;  as  evening  approached 
the  decks  were  neatly  cleared  up  and  swept  down  ;  everything 
breathed  an  air  of  quietness  and  repose.  The  sun  was  hastening  to 
the  horizon,  and  its  rays,  uridimmed  by  a  cloud,  were  undulating  upon 
the  water,  and  bathing  the  dark  hull  and  sails  of  the  Planet  in  their 
golden  light. 

The  steward  and  Jim  Hussy,  yielding  to  the  temptation,  were  al- 
ternately climbing  and  leaping  from  the  bulwarks  to  sport  in  the  in- 
viting element.  Although  such  a  bath  would  have  been  a  luxury,  I 
entertained  too  great  a  dread  of  sharks  to  indulge  in  it,  and  jumping 
into  one  of  the  boats,  I  endeavored  instead  to  immerse  myself  in  the 
abstrusities  of  that  clever  German,  Schlegel,  a  volume  of  which  I  for- 
tunately retained.  The  sun  was  just  dipping,  when  the  cry  of 
"  Shark,  O !"  rang  out  with  startling  effect  from  the  mast-head. 
Having  left  the  two  men  swimming,  I  anticipated  nothing  less  than 
a  scene  of  horror,  but  from  which  I  was  relieved  by  seeing  them 
shivering  upon  the  rail,  as  they  stared  down  at  some  object  in  the 
water.  • 

"There,  now!  What  'd  I  tell  you?  I  reckon  you'll  b'lieve  me 
next  time,  when  I  say  to  you  that  I  saw  a  man  have  his  leg  bit  off 
by  a  shirk,"  said  Mr.  Grasper,  with  an  appearance  of  melancholy. 

It  appears  the  men  had  been  diving  at^  regular  intervals  ;  and  Mr. 
Grasper,  thinking  they  had  continued  their  diversion  long  enough, 
detained  them  upon  the  rail  as  they  were  preparing  for  another  leap, 
to  relate  to  them  an  accident  that  had  come  within  his  cognizance, 
and  during  this  interval  the  shark  had  made  his  appearance.  We  all 
hastened  to  the  side  to  witness  the  arrival  of  our  new  visitor,  which 
proved  to  be  a  large  blue  shark,  (known  among  sailors  as  the  "  deep- 
sea  shark,")  who  worked  his  way  leisurely  along  to  the  ship,  with 
his  dorsal  fin  above  water.  For  a  moment  he  remained  motionless, 
then,  turning  slightly  upon  his  side,  we  saw  his  small  round  eye  look 
inquiringly  up,  as  if  wondering  what  could  have  induced  the  swimmers 


A  Thought  upon  Sharks.  85 

to  discontinue  so  innocent  a  pastime.  Whatever  were  his  meditations, 
he  did  not  indulge  them  long  ;  for  Mr.  Easy  hove  a  "  gig"  through 
and  through  him,  giving  him  a  most  unceremonious  start  from  his 
reveries  upon  fresh  joints.  We  all  clapped  on  to  the  line  and  hauled 
together.  The  monster's  weight  was  incredible,  and  when  I  looked 
over  the  side  to  watch  his  ascent,  he  was  writhing  his  body  and 
lashing  his  tail  with  fury,  and  his  open  jaws  displayed  two  or  three 
ghastly  rows  of  saw-like  teeth,  which  at  intervals  he  would  gnash 
together  with  such  vehemence  as  to  be  distinctly  heard  above  the 
noise  and  confusion  attending  his  capture.  With  great  difficulty  he 
was  drawn  half  way  up  the  side,  when  the  iron  drew,  and  he  fell 
back  into  the  water  where,  after  moving  about  leisurely  for  a  few- 
moments,  with  his  entrails  protruding  from  the  wound,  he  disappeared 
and  was  seen  no  more. 

If  there  be  any  object  throughout  the  whole  structure  of  animated 
creation  for  which  I  entertain  an  invincible  abhorrence,  it  is  a  shark. 
Anthropophagi  are  bad  enough,  but  they  may  be  tamed  ;  whereas  the 
shark  seems  created  expressly  to  lend  a  terror  to  the  sea,  and  to  prey 
upon  human  flesh.  There  is  something  indescribably  loathsome  in 
the  appearance  of  the  huge  ground-sharks  I  have  seen  among  the 
islands  of  the  Pacific,  when  drawn  upon  deck  or  ashore  ;  the  very 
eyes  seem  to  speak  murder,  and  their  teeth  torture  ;  and  often,  while 
swimming  in  crystal  waters,  over  fields  of  coral,  the  thought  has 
flashed  across  me  that  perhaps  at  that  moment  a  pair  of  eyes  were 
staring  at  me  through  labyrinthine  branches,  and  that  some  monster 
was  waiting  either  the  impulse  or  opportunity  to  drag  me  mangled 
and  bleeding  to  its  submarine  grot.  Too  many  instances  of  their 
murderous  propensity  have  come  within 'my  cognizance  to  diminish 
this  antipathy,  and  I  can  fully  participate  in  the  feelings  of  the  sailor, 
when  he  captures  his  arch-enemy. 

We  were  becalmed  nearly  a  week,  and  Captain  Buck,  thinking  the 
opportunity  favorable,  all  hands  were  turned  to  scraping  and  scour- 
ing the  ship's  sides,  preparatory  to  painting.  After  the  stagings, 
formed  of  spars  and  planks,  were  properly  arranged,  and  the  dec- 
orations of  the  Planet  commenced,  I  was  swung  over  the  stern  to 
erase  and  paint  in  large  characters  her  name,  and,  although  making 
no  pretensions  to  artistic  merit,  Captain  Buck  complimented  me  on 


86  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

what  he  was  pleased  to  term  my  success.  We  painted  her  black 
outside,  with  formidable  ports,  giving  her  bulwarks  a  dash  of  lead- 
color  within.  The  day  we  were  occupied  with  the  finishing  touches, 
it  became  necessary  to  fasten  the  running  rigging  up  to  the  fair 
leaders,  where  it  was  secured,  without  reference  to  service  in  the 
event  of  an  emergency. 

It  was  only  at  sunset  that  appearances  indicated  a  change  in  the 
weather.  There  was  a  heavy  bank  of  clouds  skirting  the  eastern 
horizon,  that  wore  a  threatening  look,  and  some  of  the  knowing  ones 
affirmed  it  was  a  weather  breeder.  No  notice  was  taken  of  it,  how- 
ever, and  as  evening  advanced  detached  masses  were  seen  gradually 
rising,  although  with  us  there  was  not  a  breath  of  air  stirring.  Sud- 
denly a  vivid  flash  seemed  to  rend  the  dark  mass  to  its  centre,  and 
the  low  rumbling  of  thunder  that  immediately  followed  sounded  omi- 
nously as  it  reverberated  in  the  distance.  These  signs  of  an  ap- 
proaching storm  were  too  startling  to  be  disregarded,  and,  at  the 
sacrifice  of  our  day's  work,  the  watch  was  called  upon  to  render 
the  running  rigging  accessible  ;  before  this  could  be  accomplished 
the  storm  was  upon  us,  a  tempest  of  wind  and  rain.  We  up  helrn 
and  let  her  scud  before  it,  and  I  thought  our  spars  would  go  be- 
fore we  could  reduce  sail ;  but  fortunately,  accomplished  all  that  was 
required  without  accident.  The  wind  being  fair,  we  drove  rapidly 
along,  and  by  morning  it  had  settled  down  to  a  steady  breeze,  that 
carried  us  safely  to  the  green  hills  of  Maui. 

Having  hastily  sketched  a  few  of  the  incidents  that  served  to 
beguile  the  monotony  of  a  six  months'  cruise,  without  attempting 
anything  like  a  concise  narrative  of  events,  I  must  say  au  revoir  to 
the  reader,  whom  I  hope  soon  to  meet  again  amid  scenes  that  shall 
be  mutually  congenial. 


END    OF    PART    FIRST. 


SEQUEL    TO    THE    FOREGOING. 


THE  writer  of  a  romance  is  at  liberty  to  dispose  of  his  characters 
as  he  pleases.  I  wish  that  in  the  present  instance  I  could  do  the 
same  ;  but  a  regard  for  the  feelings  of  others,  more  interested  than  my- 
self, compels  me  to  draw  a  veil  over  the  events  that  characterize  the 
sequel.  Yet,  without  meriting  censure,  I  think  a  few  remarks  may 
be  safely  hazarded  relative  to  those  who  have  figured  in  the  forego- 
ing pages.  It  will  be  necessary  to  premise  that  several  made  their 
escape,  but  more  were  discharged  ;  it  is  upon  the  causes  that  led 
to  this  result  that  silence  is  maintained,  not  on  my  own,  but  on  ac- 
count of  others. 

With  Captain  Buck,  and  Messrs.  Grasper,  Gurrie,  Short,  and 
Easy,  I  have  not  yet  had  the  pleasure  of  a  subsequent 'interview. 
I  have  never  since  heard  of  my  old  friend  the  cooper.  The  black- 
smith, as  was  before  noticed,  deserted,  and  was  married  in  New 
Zealand.  O'Connor,  in  company  with  steerage  Bill  and  Weasle,  at- 
tempted his  escape  at  Lahaina  ;  and  while  trudging  leisurely  along 
the  beach,  in  an  uninhabited  district,  they  were  beset  by  three  na- 
tives who  came  to  capture  them.  He  and  his  companions  were  pro- 
vided with  clubs,  but  at  the  critical  moment,  Bill  and  Weasle  threw 
down  their  weapons,  and  took  up  a  commanding  position  on  an  emi- 
nence a  short  distance  off.  O'Connor  knocked  down  the  first  native, 
whose  temerity  exceeded  his  discretion,  which  brought  the  others  to 
a  parley.  The  articles  of  capitulation  conceded  that  he  should  ride 
into  town  on  a  donkey,  accompanied  by  Bill  and  Weasle  on  either 
side,  who  were  to  retain  the  free  use  of  their  arms.  This  last  clause 
coinciding  with  the  views  of  these  two  persons,  the  treaty  was  for- 
mally ratified  by  their  ready  acquiescence,  and  the  strange  cortege 
that  moved  into  town,  without  a  precedent  in  the  annals  of  constabu- 
lary deeds,  threatened  to  revolutionize  this  branch  of  municipal  regu- 
lation. 


88  Reef-covings  in  the  South  Seas. 

One  of  the  foremost  hands,  subsequently  promoted  to  the  rank  of 
boat-steerer,  was  struck  by  a  whale  on  the  Northwest,  and  instantly 
killed. 

John,  the  boat-steerer,  discharged  at  Lahaina,  shipped  on  another 
vessel  for  a  cruise  in  the  Arctic,  where  he  narrowly  escaped  with  his 
life.  Being  out  one  day  in  pursuit  of  whales,  they  came  upon  a"  cow 
and  calf,"  and  John  up  iron  and  let  drive,  when  madam,  resenting  the 
indignity,  elevated  her  flukes,  and  brought  them  down  with  such  vio- 
lence, that  the  boat  was  shattered  to  fragments,  precipitating  all  into 
the  water,  whence  John  arose,  clinging  to  a  piece  of  the  wreck,  and 
growling  like  a  polar  bear. 

One  of  our  number,  who  shall  be  nameless,  whom  I  have  since 
seen  engaged  in  commercial  pursuits  in  Honolulu,  related  to  me  the 
eAents  attending  his  escape,  capture,  and  subsequent  discharge,  an 
outline  of  which  I  subjoin  : — The  day  previous  to  the  sailing  of  the 
Planet,  he  was  ashore  on  liberty,  and  thinking  the  moment  for  escape 
opportune,  he  encumbered  himself  with  a  canteen  of  water,  and  as 
much  sea-biscuit  as  he  could,  without  impeding  his  progress,  and 
started  for  the  mountains.  Arrived  there,  he  passed  two  or  three 
days  and  nights  in  misery  without  shelter,  and  being  overcome  by 
thirst,  he  descended  to  the  bottom  of  one  of  those  deep  valleys  in  the 
rear  of  Lahaina,  to  procure  a  drop  of  the  cooling  liquid.  The 
temptation  to  bathe  was  too  strong  to  be  resisted,  there  being  no 
signs  of  inhabitants ;  while  indulging  in  his  ablutions,  he  was 
startled  by  the  sound  of  footsteps,  and  looking  around,  saw  a  na- 
tive girl  coming  towards  him.  He  was  at  first  disposed  to  beat  a  re- 
treat up  the  steep  ridges  in  deshabille,  but  the  "  pleasant  countenance 
and  winning  way  of  the  girl,"  as  he  expressed  it,  "  hove  him  com- 
pletely aback."  After  all,  it  was  but  a  woman,  and  with  becoming  for- 
titude, he  prepared  himself  for  the  emergency.  By  signs  she  invited 
him  to  dress  himself,  and  accompany  her  to  her  house  farther  up  the 
valley.  He,  "nothing  loth,"  complied,  and  followed  his  conductress 
for  a  considerable  distance  up  the  bank  of  the  stream,  then  striking 
out  into  a  side-path  to  the  left,  they  soon  reached  a  snug  grass  hut, 
into  which  she  bade  him  enter.  Here  he  feasted  for  the  first  time 
on  fish,  poi,  and  bananas  ;  after  which  she  spread  a  clean  mat  for 
him  to  lie  upon,  and  hung  up  a  broad  kapa  for  a  curtain.  Conceiv- 


Farewell  to  the  Planet.  89 

ing  he  had  made  an  impression,  and  absorbed  with  reveries  of  love 
in  a  cottage,  he  lay  down  to  sleep  ;  but  how  fallacious  are  human 
hopes  !  At  midnight  he  was  awakened  by  the  sound  of  voices 
in  earnest  converse,  and  cautiously  pulling  the  curtain  aside,  he  dis- 
covered his  hostess  in  communication  with  two  brawny  natives,  at- 
tired in  nothing  but  the  malo.  He  was  soon  relieved  from  his  sus- 
pense by  the  girl,  who  by  signs  expressed  to  him  her  wishes  that 
he  should  accompany  her  visitors.  Entreaties  were  unavailing,  for 
nothing  but  money  would  soften  her  stony  heart,  and  unfortunately, 
he  was  unprovided  with  any  description  of  the  circulating  medium  ; 
so  over  rock  and  stone,  through  bush  and  brake,  he  was  compelled  to 
travel  that  night,  until  he  found  himself  safely  immured  within  the 

walls  of  the  fort  at  Lahaina. 

****** 

During  the  night,  while    lying  off  and  on  the  port  of ,  a  fire 

broke  out  in  the  fore  hold,  the  work 'of  an  incendiary,  and  before  ef- 
fectual means  could  be  taken  to  check  its  further  progress,  the  flames 
burst  out  of  the  fore  hatchway.  My  informant  was  nearly  suffocated 
by  the  smoke  while  asleep  in  the  forecastle.  Many  of  the  crew, 
instead  of  obeying  orders,  flew  at  once  to  the  boats,  while  others 
applied  themselves  to  drawing  water,  and  by  the  efforts  of  these,  to- 
gether with  the  personal  daring  of  a  boat-steerer,  named  Nicholas 
Peters,  of  R.  I.,  who  leaped  into  the  fore  hold,  the  better  to  grapple 
with  it,  the  fire  was  extinguished.  There  was  no  peace  for  Mr. 
Grasper  during  the  remainder  of  that  night ;  he  girded  on  a  long, 
straight,  cavalry  sword,  something  like  a  Toledo  blade,  stuck  a  brace 
of  pistols  in  his  belt,  and,  thus  accoutred,  performed  the  duty  of  a 
marine  :  while  Mr.  Short,  for  want  of  a  better  weapon,  promenaded 
the  opposite  side  of  the  quarter-deck  with  a  boarding-pike.  Mr. 

Easy  had  already  effected  his  escape. 

*  *  *  *  *  * 

Josh,  and  two  or  three  others,  for  a  brief  interval  turned  their  at- 
tention to  agricultural  pursuits. 

****** 

The  merry  laugh  of  some,  is  hushed — the  warm  hand  of  friend- 
ship, cold  !  When  the  "  chip"  of  life  first  swam  on  the  ocean  of 
eternity,  it  was  said  by  Him  who  hove  it — "  Watch  !"  The  sands 


90  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

of  time  ran  still,  while  the  thread  of  existence  spun  rapidly  from 
the  reel,  and  when  death  said  "  Up !"  by  the  hand  that  gave  it  be- 
ginning it  was  "  checked"  forever.  But  amid  light  and  gloom 
ocean  rolls  on,  unchanged  by  the  storm  of  passion  or  calm  of  repose  ; 
and  to  each  light  heart  that  has  sported  amid  its  billows,  but  now 
slumbers  in  its  bosom,  let  us  unite  in  saying,  Farewell ! — requiescat 
in  pace ! 


PART   II. 


HAWAIIAN   ISLANDS, 


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HAWAIIAN    ISLANDS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

ADVENTURES    IN   LAHAINA. 

LAHAINA,  the  principal  town  of  Maui,  and  the  second  of  import- 
ance in  the  kingdom,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  leeward  side  of 
West  Maui,  so  called  from  its  resemblance  to  a  distinct  island,  being 
connected  with  East  Maui  by  a  low  isthmus  nearly  level  with  the 
sea. 

From  the  roadstead,  it  having  no  harbor,  there  is  something  pecu- 
liarly attractive  in  its  appearance,  owing  to  its  favorable  contrast  to 
the  sterile  mountains  in  the  background,  rising  from  4,000  to  5,000 
feet  above  the  sea.  Like,  as  it  were,  an  oasis  in  the  desert,  it  ex- 
tends for  nearly  two  miles  along  the  shore,  a  luxuriant  garden,  hav- 
ing an  average  breadth  of  nearly  half  a  mile.  The  site  of  the  town 
is  perfectly  level,  with  a  slight  elevation  above  the  sea.  In  the  rear, 
and  on  either  side,  there  is  hardly  tree  or  shrub  to  relieve  the  barren 
aspect.  Among  its  conspicuous  objects  is  the  long  two-story  wooden 
building  with  a  verandah  running  around  it,  and  designated  "  The 
Palace,"  but  which,  to  do  his  majesty  justice,  he  never  deigns  to 
notice  during  his  visits  to  Lahaina. 

The  fort,  occupying  a  central  position,  is  a  parallelogram,  built  of 
coral  blocks,  about  twelve  feet  in  height,  and  mounting  a  few  rusty 
guns  of  various  calibre  on  its  ramparts,  which  are  patrolled  by  sen- 
tinels in  ventilated  uniforms.  The  native  church,  a  two-story  build- 
ing, and  neatly  whitewashed,  is  also  conspicuous,  with  its  red  roof 


94  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

and  steeple,  surrounded  by  bread-fruit,  cocoanut,  and  kukui  trees, 
(Aleurites  triloba.)  The  stores  and  dwellings  of  foreign  residents, 
scattered  along  the  shore,  form  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  grass 
houses  of  the  natives,  situated  amid  groves,  and  grouped  near  the 
water's  edge.  In  the  rear,  at  a  much  greater  elevation,  and  some- 
what to  the  right,  two  deep  valleys  give  a  pleasing  effect  to  the 
landscape,  their  sides  clothed  with  a  dense  growth  of  trees  and 
underwood,  and  their  bottoms  watered  by  streams  foaming  over  rocky 
beds,  irrigating  the  inclined  plane  to  a  considerable  extent,  until  ab- 
sorbed by  the  thirsty  soil.  During  the  rainy  season,  they  become 
torrents,  and  empty  into  the  sea.  On  the  mountain-side  to  the  left, 
the  white  mission  residences  of  Lahainaluna,  with  the  steepled 
Seminary,  afford  an  agreeable  relief  to  the  eye  ;  beyond,  the  moun- 
tain summits  are  clothed  with  forest,  and  frequently  enveloped  in 
clouds.  The  soil  of  Lahaina  has  a  reddish  tinge,  and  is  of  clayey 
consistency.  According  to  the  seasons,  it  is  alternately  dry  and 
muddy  ;  and  during  the  summer  months,  when  there  is  a  long  absence 
of  rain,  the  whirlwinds  that  come  sweeping  down  the  valleys  carry 
the  dust  in  clouds  far  out  to  sea. 

With  all  its  inconveniences,  Lahaina  is  a  most  inviting  spot 
to  look  upon  after  the  privations  of  a  sea- voyage.  To  one  who  has 
never  before  visited  Polynesia,  there  is  a  novelty  and  beauty  in  every- 
thing— the  commingling  of  civilization  with  semi-barbarism,  and  the 
association  of  native  and  foreigner.  The  light  and  airy  cottage  that 
we  are  accustomed  to  associate  with  oak  and  elm  at  home,  looks  none 
the  worse  though  shaded  by  the  spreading  branches  of  the  kou,  or  for 
having  its  garden  adorned  with  exotics,  interspersed  with  the  bread- 
fruit arid  cocoa  palm.  The  thatch  huts  of  the  natives,  sometimes  in- 
closed by  adobe  walls,  ajid  surrounded  by  taro-patches  arid  the  pro- 
ducts of  their  industry,  have  a  pleasing  appearance  ;  these,  together 
with  the  frequently  gaudy  attire  of  their  inmates,  strutting  leisurely 
along,  or  chanting  a  mele  beneath  shady  banana  groves,  lend  a  pic- 
turesque effect  to  the  scene. 

On  the  20th  April,  1849,  I  was,  like  Jack,  "all  abroad,"  and, 
in  reverting  to  the  incidents  of  that  period,  I  have  classed  them 
among  the  happiest  of  Polynesian  reminiscences.  Without  being 
frowned  upon  as  an  intruder,  with  duck  trowsers  and  hickory  shirt, 


Native  Hospitality. 


I  could  initiate  myself  into  all  the  mysteries  of  beer-shops  and 
victualling-houses,  (deprecating  the  taste,)  and  witness  the  hearty 
congratulations  between  the  cruisers  of  New  Zealand  and  those  of 
the  Ochotsk  seas.  It  was  during  this  interesting  period  that  I  made 
myself  fully  acquainted  with  the  domestic  economy  of  a  Hawaiian 
household,  though  the  taste  for  pot  was  subsequently  acquired  under 
circumstances  of  necessity.  To  trespass  upon  the  subject  of  family 
routine,  would  involve  too  much  prolixity ;  suffice  it  to  say,  the 
research  should  be  cautiously  ventured,  and  not  unfrequently  the 
result  would  be  anything  but  nattering  to  morality.  The  dress  of 
the  males  usually  consists  of  the  ordinary  trowsers  and  shirt ;  but 
among  the  wealthier  class  there  is  nothing  to  distinguish  their  gar- 
ments, both  in  quantity  and  quality,  from  those  of  more  favored  com- 
munities. The  female  attire  possesses  nothing  attractive.  Without 
regard  to  material,  whether  the  embroidered  fabrics  of  China,  or  the 
printed  cottons  from  the  looms  of  Fall  River,  they  fashion  their  robes 
like  loose  gowns,  with  formidable  gtgot  sleeves,  pertinaciously  re- 
jecting any  innovation  on  their  established  custom. 

It  has  been  remarked  that  Hawaiians  are  proverbial  for  their  hos- 
pitality ;  without  combating  any  encomium  upon  their  virtues,  I 
must  observe,  that  friendship  will  sometimes  degenerate  to  selfish- 
ness. Whether  from  predisposition  in  my  favor,  or  acting  under  a 
momentary  impulse,  a  native,  whom  I  shall  call  John,  saw  fit  to 
shoulder  himself  upon  me,  inviting  confidence  by  his  apparent  sin- 
cerity. He  was  a  good-looking  fellow,  speaking  English  with  tolera- 
ble facility ;  and  having'  cruised  two  or  three  seasons  on  the  north- 
west, he  believed  it  his  prerogative  to  inveigle  any  of  the  craft,  no 
matter  by  what  means,  into  an  appreciation  of  his  attentions.  On 
his  account,  I  am  sorry  to  add  that  from  me  his  gleanings  were  small, 
for  chest  I  had  none,  and  the  small  bundle  of  necessary  apparel 
could  never  incommode  me  by  its  weight.  As  to  shoes,  I  wore  my 
only  pair,  and  between  soles  and  uppers  a  struggle  had  been  long 
going  on  regarding  the  propriety  of  separation. 

The  first  object  that  seriously  engaged  his  attention  was  a  large 
fancy  quilt,  and  which  he  suggested  was  admirably  adapted  for  a 
curtain  of  ceremony.  I  had  no  great  partiality  for  it,  although  not 
insensible  to  its  convenience.  During  the  voyage  it  had  covered  a 


96  Reef- Roving s  in  the  South  Seas. 

bust  of  General  Cass,  which  had  been  presented  by  a  friend — the 
artist  who  executed  it ;  but  whether  typical  or  not  of  that  states- 
man's downfall,  I  found  it  fractured  in  several  places  on  my  arrival, 
and  with  feelings  of  regret  I  consigned  the  relics  to  a  resting-place 
among  the  coral  reefs  of  Lahaina.  I  gave  it  to  him  at  once.  Next, 
a  figured  pongee  with  a  dashing  border  attracted  his  attention.  This 
he  begged  for  his  wife,  and  it  was  readily  bestowed,  for  she  was  a 
pretty  and  obliging  woman.  As  his  wants  increased,  my  stock  di- 
minished ;  and  with  feelings  of  alarm,  I  contemplated  the  contin- 
gency of  "  pitching  horse-pieces"  in  the  Arctic.  Any  hints  regard- 
ing my  needy  condition — for,  unfortunately,  I  had  nothing  in  the  shape 
of  a  legal  tender — he  would  offset  with  a  cozy  embrace,  informing 
me  that  the  poi  calabash  was  always  at  my  service.  I  could  eat 
the  taro  fresh  from  the  oven,  for  then  there  is  something  agreeable 
about  it ;  but,  after  seeing  John,  sans  culotte,  and  girded  with  nothing 
but  a  malo,  pounding  away  at  it  with  a  stone  pestle  upon  an  old 
board,  with  the  perspiration  streaming  from  his  body,  my  stomach 
refused  to  encounter  it.  Nalimu,  his  wife,  would  sometimes  oblige 
me  with  a  bunch  of  bananas ;  and  through  her  influence,  we  were 
now  and  then  regaled  with  the  inviting  spectacle  of  a  roaster.  How- 
ever, I  ultimately  effected  an  arrangement  with  the  proprietor  of  a 
victualling-house,  thus  avoiding  the  prospect  of  lingering  starvation. 
It  was  several  days  before  I  ventured  to  trespass  within  the  pre- 
cincts of  royalty.  Crossing  a  stagnant  pool  where  the  "  mud-hens" 
were  quarrelling  with  each  other,  I  sauntered  leisurely  towards  the 
Palace,  expecting  to  see  the  royal  standard  of  Hawaii  weaving  from 
the  balcony,  and  grooms  and  pages  in  livery  bustling  about  with  the 
officiousness  of  menials.  But  not  a  sound  came  from  its  deserted 
halls.  Both  railings  and  columns  of  unmentionable  architecture  ex- 
pressed a  contempt  of  paint,  having  withal  a  venerable  aspect ; 
the  most  interesting  feature  was  its  plastered  walls,  whose  white- 
washed surface  offered  a  tempting  field  for  the  designs  of  native 
artists.  Whether  original  or  otherwise,  they  certainly  produced  an 
astonishing  effect ;  for,  without  adhering  to  any  particular  school 
of  the  art,  the.  dash  of  coloring  (charcoal)  was  laid  on  in  bold  out- 
line ;  and  tableaux  of  animated  figures,  with  explanatory  hieroglyph- 
ics, were  grouped  about  the  door-way.  At  the  first  glance,  the 


Etchings  of  the  Fine  Arts.  97 

delineation  of  a  centaur  would  indicate  an  acquaintance  with  mythol- 
ogy ;  but  a  broad  Mexican  saddle,  with  its  uncouth  stirrups,  giving 
it  a  modern  appearance,  made  one  unable  to  reconcile  the  discrep- 
ancy. At  times,  there  was  an  approximation  to  sentiments  of  a 
tenderer  nature,  and  amorous  designs  gave  a  clue  to  the  propensities 
of  their  authors.  Appropriate  mottoes  were  frequently  subjoined, 
such  as  "  aloha  maikai  oe  o  pua  lake"  (love  to  you,  my  rose,)  but  again 
there  were  characters  so  unique  that  it  would  have  required  a  Cham- 
pollion  to  decipher  them.  I  had  the  temerity  to  trespass  within  the 
portal ;  though  destitute  of  ornament,  the  spacious  rooms  and  solid 
floors  have  a  substantial  appearance.  I  know  of  no  better  place  in 
Lahaina  for  enjoying  the  sea-breeze  and  a  commanding  prospect, 
than  its  balcony  or  roof.  In  one  of  its  rooms  is  held  the  Police 
Court ;  and  the  broad  hall  is  occupied  by  the  Circuit  Court,  during 
its  annual  sitting.  Of  late  years,  more  attention  has  been  paid  to  its 
appearance,  with  reference  to  wilful  mutilation.  The  walls  are  sound, 
and  it  may  yet  be  rendered  an  ornament  to  the  town  in  which  it 
stands. 

At  this  time  his  majesty,  Kamehameha  III.,  was  visiting  Lahaina, 
and  during  his  sojourn  he  usually  remained  at  the  residence  of  the 
Young  family,  the  elite  of  Hawaiian  nobility.  He  frequently  rode  out 
accompanied  by  his  attendants',  managing  his  horse  with  ease,  and 
had  the  appearance  of  being  an  accomplished  equestrian. 


CHAPTER    II. 

O'CONNOR'S    EXPERIENCES. 

I  WAS  one  day  strolling  through  the  bread-fruit  grove  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  town,  indulging  a  few  consolatory  reflections  at  the 
expense  of  that  misanthrope,  Zimmerman,  when  I  was  startled  from 
my  revery  by  a  familiar  voice  singing: 

"  I  dug  his  grave  with  a  silver  spade  ; 

0  !  bullies,  0  ! 

And  I  lowered  him  down  with  a  golden  chain, 
A  hundred  years  ago  !" 
7 


98  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

Immediately  after,  it  changed  to,  "  Hard  a-port  there,  shipmate  ! 
and  keep  your  luff,  or  you'll  be  aboard  of  me." 

In  the  direction  whence  the  sound  came,  I  espied  the  gable  of  a 
hut  just  peeping  above  a  clump  of  sugar-cane. 

"  Ship  ahoy  !     Who  are  you  ?"  I  hailed. 

"  Avast  there,  doctor !  and  heave  aback.  You  are  trespassing  on 
my  cruising-ground !"  returned  O'Connor,  whom  I  now  recognized. 

I  lost  no  time  in  entering  the  humble  portal,  and  there,  stretched 
out  upon  a  pile  of  mats  in  "  inglorious  ease,"  was  the  hero  of  the 
donkey ;  inhaling  at  intervals,  from  a  short,  stumpy  pipe,  the  aroma 
of  the  fragrant  weed.  He  was  a  shade  darker  than  when  we  had 
parted  on  shipboard,  and  his  costume  was  a  melange  of  civilization 
and  barbarism.  Instead  of  the  striped  flannel  shirt,  he  sported  a 
fancy  regatta  with  a  flowing  collar  ;  a  Turkey  red  pan,  or  wrapper, 
was  substituted  for  duck  trowsers.  He  wore  a  fragrant  necklace 
of  the  yellow  drupes  of  the  Pandanus  odoratissimus,  and  his  head 
was  encircled  by  a  formidable  wreath  of  mountain  fern.  There  were 
half  a  dozen  dusky  belles  and  beaux  in  the  apartment,  reclining  upon 
the  soft  mats  of  the  lauhala.  The  whole  seemed  an  apparition  of  the 
drowsy  tableaux  in  "  Midsummer  Night's  Dream ;"  and  I  felt  like 
exclaiming  with  Snout : 

"  0  Bottom,  thou  art.  changed ! 
What  do  I  see  onthee?' 

After  passing  congratulations  and  comparing  notes,  O'Connor  pro- 
ceeded to  recount  a  few  items  of  personal  adventure  that  had  trans- 
pired since  his  escape. 

"  In  the  first  place,"  said  he,  "  after  leaving  the  fort,  I  commenced 
beating  about  for  something  to  do.  I  was  determined  not  to  reship 
without  a  little  rustication.  So  one  day  I  packed  up  and  started  off 
for  the  other  side  of  the  island.  A  lucky  stroke  I  had  my  'pass,'  or  I 
should  have  been  arrested  a  dozen  times  as  a  runaway.  Well,  I 
forged  ahead  until  I  reached  the  mountain,  and  here  I  hove-to  for  the 
night;  for,  you  know,  it's  rulable  to  make  any  port  in  a  storm. 
The  next  day  I  commenced  climbing  over  hills  and  ridges  as  barren 
as  those  of  St.  Nicholas,  and  it  was  a  good  half  day  before  I  reached 
the  desert  on  the  opposite  side.  I  was  almost  choked,  for  since 
morning  I  had  been  sweltering  in  the  sun  without  a  smell  of  any- 


A  Sailor's  Expedient.  99 

thing  to  drink,  and  here  I  stood  on  a  plain,  miles  in  extent,  without 
a  sign  of  either  tree,  shrub,  or  water.  I  edged  along  to  the  sea- 
shore, and  followed  the  smooth  beach  for  three  or  four  miles,  until  I 
reached  a  little  village  of  dried  haystacks.  Here  I  halted  for  a  snack. 
I  bolted  into  the  first  house  I  came  to,  and  made  motions  to  an  old 
woman  catching  fleas.  She  handed  me  a  calabash  of  villanous 
liquid,  that  reminded  me  of  a  fermented  waterbutt ;  and  if  you'll  be- 
lieve me,  I  had  to  pay  a  real  before  she'd  give  me  a  drink  of  the 
abominable  stuff. 

"  I   was  lucky   in   finding   a   white    man,  who  told  me  he  had 

lived  for  years  in  Wai Wai something,  I  forget  the  name, 

and  that  he  raised  potatoes  in  the  mountains,  and  speculated  in  horses 
and  cattle  for  a  living.  He  offered  to  hire  me  to  drive  cart  from  the 
diggings  to  the  beach,  and  as  the  wages  were  fair,  I  signed  articles 
on  the  spot.  I  said  I  was  lucky,  but  1  believe  I  was  unlucky,  for  I 
find  I  was  never  cut  out  for  a  farmer.  D'ye  see,  the  cattle  here  aint 
like  the  cattle  at  home.  In  the  first  place,  I  had  to  have  native  boys 
to  tackle  'em  for  me,  and  then,  you  know,  I  can't  talk  a  word  of  Kana- 
ker,  (the  only  language  they  understand,)  so  that  when  I  said  '  port" 
and  'starboard,'  I  might  as  well  have  whistled  to  the  wind.  Things 
went  on  in  a  fair  way  until  the  fifth  day.  I  was  driving  a  cart-load 
of  '  spuds'  down  the  mountain,  for  the  haystacks,  and  when  about 
half  way,  the  starboard  beast  got  huffy,  and  began  to  make  leeway ; 
so,  thinks  I,  my  lad,  I'll  just  clap  a  stopper  on  to  your  cutwater,  and 
bring  you  to.  I  took  out  a  coil  of  rope  I  always  carried  in  the 
cart,  and  made  a  running  bowline,  which  I  tried  to  throw  over  his 
nose.  Some  how  or  other  they  both  got  wind  of  the  game,  and  with 
tails  triced  up  as  taught  as  martingales,  they  started  down  hill  like  a 
pair  of  'fin-backs.'  They  went  as  if  the  devil  had  'em,  and  the  old 
cart  bounded  over  the  rocks,  scattering  '  scurvy  pills'  all  the  way ! 
They  must  have  shaped  their  course  by  compass,  for  they  kept  the 
track,  and  I  watched  them  until  they  looked  no  bigger  than  a  pair 
of  sucking  calves.  D'ye  think  I  followed  ?  Not  I.  I  jumped  onto 
a  rock,  swung  my  tarpaulin,  and  sung  that  good  old  song — 

'  0  !  storm  along  ! 
0  !  my  roving  blades,  storm  along,  stormy  !' 

"  My  farming  jig  was  up.     I  squared  yards  with  the  old  fellow,  and 


100  '         Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

bore  away  for  this  port.     I  arrived  four  days  ago :  went  down  and 

shipped  aboard  the  0 ,  bound  for  the  Arctic  ;  got  an  advance, 

and  I'm  living  it  out.  I  rent  this  house,  I  do,  and  these  squaws  and 
Kanakas  are  my  hired  servants.  A  man  must  live  a  little  while,  you 
know.  In  less  than  three  months  I  shall  be  on  the  nor'west,  chas- 
ing 'bowheads'  in  the  fog,  and  up  to  my  eyes  in  'gurry.'  But 
never  mind,  a  man's  all  right  if  he  can  only  keep  a  *  shot  in  the 
locker.'  " 

O'Connor  was  a  good  sample  of  the  reckless  roisterly  sailor. 
Free  and  easy,  at  the  same  time  prepared  for  any  emergency,  the 
impudence  that  would  prompt  him  to  tweak  the  fur  hood  of  an  Es- 
quimaux belle,  relapsed  into  a  sentiment  of  unqualified  self-assurance, 
while  paying  court  to  the  less  circumspect  charmers  of  the  Southern 
Isles.  We  gossipped  together  for  an  hour  or  more  ;  and  on  shaking 
hands,  wished  each  other  "  so-'long,"  with  the  same  levity  and  indif- 
ference that  characterized  our  first  meeting  on  shipboard.  Sailors, 
of  all  classes,  are  least  disposed  to  brood  over  severed  friendships, 
whether  transient  or  permanent.  Two  days  after,  he  sailed,  and  I 
have  neither  seen  nor  heard  of  him  since. 


CHAPTER    III. 

A  LAWYER  ABROAD. 

AMOXG  the  guests  of  the  victualling-house,  I  noticed  a  person 
of  perhaps  five-and-twenty,  whose  seedy  attire  accorded  so  well 
with  my  own  unpretending  habiliments  of  blue  drilling,  that,  after 
a  little  random  conversation,  a  mutual  feeling  of  sympathy  began  to 
germinate,  and  we  were  drawn  together  by  the  intuitive  perception 
inherent  in  "  birds  of  a  feather." 

Allaire,  my  newly-found  acquaintance,  wore  a  "  pepper-and-salt" 
frock-coat  of  undeniable  antiquity,  which  hung  around  him  like  loose 
drapery,  with  the  exception  of  the  sleeves  ;  these  were  so  tight 
that  the  elbows,  by  urging  a  continued  remonstrance,  had  effected  a 


Airs.  K.~ -Shampooing.  101 

compromise.  His  lustreless  cravat  of  black  silk,  notwithstanding 
the  climate,  was  girded  tightly  around  his  neck  to  the  chin,  and 
the  frayed  extremities  of  a  calico  shirt-collar  occasionally  struggled 
for  an  existence  above  it.  His  pants,  of  threadbare  doeskin,  seemed 
a  redeeming  feature.  A  dilapidated  beaver  or  broad-brimmed  Pana- 
ma was  usually  adjusted  several  inches  in  advance  of  the  facial  angle. 
He  had  a  peculiar  gait,  wiry  and  elastic,  as  if  treading  upon  springs, 
the  right  shoulder  hitched  up,  while  the  other  was  correspondingly 
depressed. 

He  was  an  Englishman,  and,  with  all  his  oddities,  was  qualified 
by  birth  and  education  to  move  in  a  higher  sphere  of  social  relations 
than  that  into  which  the  chances  of  adventure  had  thrown  him.  He 
had,  I  think,  obtained  a  degree  at  the  college  from  which  he  gradu- 
ated, besides  receiving  the  diploma  of  jurisprudence  ;  and  with 
safety  it  may  be  added,  that,  at  the  time  of  which  I  am  writing, 
but  few  persons  in  the  kingdom  could  boast  of  higher  literary  attain- 
ments than  Mr.  Allaire.  Strange  to  add,  he  had  reached  the  Islands 
about  six  months  previous,  on  a  Yankee  whaler. 

At  his  request,  I  removed,  with  the  few  relics  of  the  "  slop-chest" 
I  still  retained,  to  his  residence.  It  was  a  medium-sized  grass  house, 
situated  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Palace,  owned  and  occupied  by  a  huge 
female  named  Kai-hu-nui,  whose  blood  gave  her  a  sort  of  precedence 
over  the  fag-end  of  Hawaiian  nobility.  She  had  a  charming  little 
protege  named  La-ni  (Heaven),  about  twelve  years  of  age,  full  of 
roguish  mirth,  and  whose  cheerful  disposition  seemed  to  neutralize 
the  acerbity  of  her  surly  godmother.  Though  Allaire  had  rented  one- 
half  the  house,  (the  line  of  demarkation  being  a  fancy  calico  curtain,) 
the  old  Hecate  always  looked  upon  me  as  a  vagabond  interloper, 
without  ever  deigning  me  a  grunt  of  civility. 

In  future  pages  I  shall  probably  have  occasion  to  speak  of  sham- 
pooing, or  Lomilomi-'mg,  but  never  again  of  the  manner  in  which  I 

have  seen  it  practised  upon  her.  Mrs.  K would  extend  herself 

upon  the  mats,  face  downward  ;  after  which,  a  powerful  man  would 
elevate  himself  upon  her  back,  and  pace  up  and  down  her  spine  with 
the  measured  tread  of  a  wire-dancer.  This  she  esteemed  a  luxury, 
and  it  was  a  favorite  remedy  on  occasions  of  indigestion. 

In  disposition  she  was  selfish.     I  could  never  leave  a  bunch  of 


I 

102  Reef -Roving  s  in  the  South  Seas. 

cigars,  or  other  trophies  of  a  foraging  expedition,  upon  the  table  in 
our  apartment,  without  finding  them  more  than  decimated  on  my 
return.  Whenever,  during  my  peregrinations,  I  could  filch  a  wreath 
of  flowers,  and  afterwards  present  it  to  the  pretty  Lani,  she  would 
knit  her  formidable  brows,  and  utter  in  a  deep  "  primo  basso,"  "  Nana 
KELA  haole  /"  equivalent  to,  "  Mercy !  what  impudence  !" 

The  furniture  of  our  apartment  was  simple  enough :  at  one  ex- 
tremity was  a  dais  for  sleeping  ;  it  was  covered  with  mats,  and,  save- 
two  or  three  quilts  and  pillows,  there  were  no  other  pretensions  to 
bedding.  Allaire  had  a  little  rickety  trunk  in  one  corner,  filled  pro- 
miscuously with  newspapers,  pamphlets,  (he  was  an  assistant  editor,) 
and  clothing.  The  table,  of  liberal  dimensions,  was  innocent  of 
covering.  Here  were  scattered  manuscripts,  briefs,  books,  plugs 
of  tobacco,  with  sheath-knife  for  cutting,  and  an  indefinite  quantity 
of  pens,  pipes,  and  the  minor  requirements  of  a  literary  dilettante. 
Among  the  tomes,  I  noticed,  in  neat  calf  binding,  the  "  Hawaiian  Stat- 
ute Laws,"  "  Peregrine  Pickle,"  an  odd  volume  of  the  "  Edinburgh 
Quarterly,"  and  a  dozen  others  equally  acceptable  to  a  pair  of  loit- 
erers. By  far  the  most  significant  object  was  a  pile  of  empty  Cologne 
bottles  in  one  corner  of  the  apartment ;  and  I  could  not  repress  the 
natural  inquiry  as  to  what  he  had  done  with  his  barber  pole. 

"  You  must  know,"  said  Allaire,  "  that  a  sign  is  not  always  an  indi- 
cation of  occupation.  Necessity  may  compel  a  man  to  swallow 
home-brewed  malt,  though  at  the  same  time  he  would  evince  a  de- 
cided preference  for  Cognac.  Ergo,  as  our  statutes  impose  a  duty  of 
five  dollars  per  gallon  on  imported  liquors,  containing  four  per  cent, 
alcohol,  our  Galens  wriggle  over  it  by  augmenting  their  stock  of  per- 
fumery and  cosmetics,  including,  eau  de  Cologne,  superior  Baywater, 
Ambrosia,  et  cetera.  These  we  purchase  ad  libitum,  and,  after  im- 
bibing the  essence  of  ideality,  in  the  shape  of  peppermint  and  win- 
tergreen,  we  soar  away  to  Olympus  amid  an  atmosphere  of  bergamot 
and  rosemary. 

Whatever  might  have  been  Allaire's  propensity  in  this  respect, 
there  was  no  manifestation  of  it  in  my  presence.  His  "  nippers,"  if 
he  indulged,  were  taken  abroad.  We  often  strolled  out  together, 
lounging  through  the  groves,  and  initiating  ourselves  into  the  mys- 
teries of  domestic  economy.  A  six  months'  sojourn  had  not  been  un- 


An  Evening  Adventure.  103 

improved  by  Allaire,  and,  in   nautical  phraseology,  he  "  knew  the 
ropes." 

One  evening  he  inquired  of  me  whether  I  was  familiar  with 
botany. 

"  What  do  you  mean  ?" 

"  Simply,  whether  you  are  acquainted  with  the  appearance,  prop- 
erties, and  legitimate  uses  of  the  plant  Dracona  terminalis,  or 
Awa?" 

I  replied,  that  my  knowledge  of  it  was  limited  to  a  brief  botanical 
description  ;  and  that  I  was  aware  its  root  was  used  by  the  natives 
of  the  Pacific  Isles  for  manufacturing  an  intoxicating  beverage. 

"  Well,  then,"  said  my  Mentor,  "just  put  on  your  hat  and  favor  me 
with  your  company  this  evening.  Ah  !  I  had  nearly  forgotten.  I 
think  it  advisable  we  adjust  our  bedding,  by  way  of  anticipation  !" 

Little  Laiii  looked  archly  at  us  as  we  left  the  house,  and,  shaking 
her  finger,  said : 

"  Ua  iki  au  ko  olua  hcle  ana"  (I  know  where  you  are 
going.) 

"  HecC  ka  hewa"  (what  of  it)  ?  returned  Allaire,  laughingly,  as  he 
closed  the  door. 

After  leaving  the  house,  he  guided  me  by  a  route  I  had  never  been, 
through  a  forest  of  cocoanut  and  kukui  trees,  cane  jungles,  and,  what 
was  worse  than  all,  over  the  unavoidable  margins  of  "  taro-patches," 
where  a  false  step  would  have  precipitated  us  into  the  "  slough  of 
despond."  Lights  were  gleaming  at  intervals  through  the  groves ; 
and  as  if  these  were  insufficient,  the  barking  of  dogs  announced  our 
proximity  to  thatch  homesteads.  We  soon  entered  upon  a  well- 
trodden  path  through  a  banana  grove,  which  conducted  us  to  a 
habitation,  where,  through  the  chinks  of  the  door,  we  saw  a  light 
burning,  and,  from  the  sound  of  voices,  inferred  that  a  goodly  com- 
pany was  assembled. 

Without  knocking,  we  entered,  and  Allaire  was  recognized  by  all, 
to  judge  from  the  storm  of  salutations  that  followed.  My  estimate 
as  to  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  assemblage  had  not  been  prema- 
ture. There  were  present  more  than  a  dozen  natives  of  both 
sexes,  old  and  young,  indulging  in  a  lively  gossip.  The  group 
that  first  riveted  our  attention  was  that  occupying  the  centre  of  the 


104  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

apartment.  Here  were  half  a  dozen  young  girls,  some  of  them  in 
deshabille,  sitting  upon  the  mats  around  a  huge  calabash,  each  girl 
having  a  small  bunch  of  awa  roots  beside  her,  portions  of  which  all 
were  chewing.  After  reducing  it  to  a  pulpy  consistency  between 
their  beautifully  white  teeth,  they  would  toss  it  into  the  large  cala- 
bash, while  their  mouths  were  relieved  from  superfluous  secretions 
by  a  smaller  vessel  placed  for  the  purpose 

Though  ostensibly  engaged  in  conversation,  it  was  evident  that  the 
sentiments  of  the  old  folks  were  in  the  large  calabash,  to  judge  from 
the  longing  glances  cast  upon  it.  I  noticed  a  venerable-looking  in- 
dividual, (his  only  attire  a  malo,)  who  leaned  complacently  against 
the  centre  post,  and  watched  intently  his  heart's  delight.  Allaire, 
after  firing  a  shot  here  and  there,  proceeded  to  comment  upon  the 
subject  before  us. 

"  You  observe,"  said  he,  "  that  in  preparing  the  root  as  it  should 
be,  recourse  is  had  to  none  but  mouths  of  unquestionable  purity. 
Albeit  the  lips  are  voluptuous,  the  rosy  cavity,  with  its  appendage  of 
immaculate  ivory,  is  a  model  of  mastication ;  and  as  to  lungs,  their 
breath  is  as  pure  as  the  atmosphere  they  inhale.  The  effect  of  the 
beverage  prepared  from  the  root  is1  peculiar.  After  drinking  it,  you 
should  retire  to  some  quiet  spot  where  you  can  repose  undisturbed, 
with  your  head  moderately  elevated  ;  and  the  dreams  of  an  opium- 
smoker  cannot  surpass  the  pleasing  reveries  that  will  flit  through 
your  cranium.  Its  continued  use  affects  the  skin,  causing  it  to  peel 
off.  To  notice  the  epidermis  of  some  of  these  lank  gentry  wTho 
have  been  long  indulging,  reminds  one  of  a  snake  during  moulting 
season.  Of  course,  I  speak  as  an  '  outsider.'  You  shall1  see  for 
yourself  presently." 

Knowing  that  the  preparation  of  the  root  was  tabooed,  or  prohibited, 
I  was  surprised  to  see  a  young  man  present  who  sported  a  red  band 
on  his  hat,  one  of  the  insignia  of  a  constable,  and  I  sought  an  ex- 
planation. 

"  Let  me  again  impress  upon  your  mind  that  there  is  no  kingdom 
in  the  world  where  appearances  are  more  deceptive  than  in  this. 
That  fellow  yonder  is  no  more  a  constable  than  I  am.  His  mother 
has  probably  been  making  a  red  flannel-shirt  for  his  father,  and  by 
way  of  coaxing  him  to  weed  the  taro-patch,  she  has  condescend- 


Native  Bacchanals.  105 


ingly  sewed  the  trimmings  upon  his  cap.  Gold  bands,  you  have 
probably  noticed,  are  the  rage  among  all  classes  and  colors  ;  but 
don't  deceive  yourself  into  the  belief  that  they  are  criterions  of 
rank,  for  the  king's  jockey  sports  a  broader  one  than  his  majesty." 

Our  colloquy  was  interrupted  by  an  exclamation  from  some  of  the 
girls  of  "Ua  pdu  kekou  /"  (we  have  done,)  meaning  that  they  had 
finished.  A  stout  native  then  approached  the  calabash  of  masticated 
roots,  and  half  filled  it  with  water  from  a  smaller  vessel.  After  this, 
he  rolled  up  his  sleeve  and  commenced  kneading  the  mass  with  his 
hand  until  the  liquid  assumed  the  appearance  of  soap-suds.  Then, 
from  the  inner  fibre  of  a  cocoanut  husk,  he  fashioned  a  sort  of  bird's- 
nest  funnel,  which  was  to  serve  the  double  purpose  of  purifier  and 
strainer,  and  holding  it  over  one  of  the  small  drinking  vessels,  he 
poured  the  liquid  into  it  as  it  filtered  slowly  through,  while  the 
minute  particles  or  impurities  adhered  to  the  strainer.  The  drinking 
vessels  consisted  of  glass  tumblers,  earthen  bowls,  cocoanut  shells, 
and  small  gourds.  As  fast  as  they  were  filled,  they  were  handed  to 
the  company,  who  received  them  with  undisguised  satisfaction. 
Allaire  appropriated  one  of  the  gourds,  and  gave  me  a  glassful  of  the 
opaque  liquid,  insisting  that  I  should  drink  it.  I  moistened  my  lips, 
and  returned  the  repulsive  mixture. 

"  Chew  the  root,  man,  and  you'll  find  the  beverage  more  pal- 
atable." 

I  did  as  directed,  and  Was  agreeably  surprised  to  find  that  it  had 
a  pungent,  aromatic  flavor,  leaving  in  the  mouth  a  sensation  similar 
to  that  produced  by  chewing  cinnamon  or  cloves.  I  then  drained 
the  contents  of  the  glass,  (the  first  and  only  time  I  ever  drank  awa,) 
and  waited  patiently  for  the  result. 

Meanwhile,  the  old  man  continued  to  ladle  out  the  contents  of  his 
vegetable  punch-bowl,  with  all  the  officiousness  of  a  master  of  cere- 
monies. Allaire,  I  think,  drank  two  gourds  of  it.  The  grimaces  of 
the  old  folks,  as  they  sipped  from  their  delectable  goblets,  were  sug- 
gestive of  a  domestic  tea  and  knitting-work  party. 

Its  influence  was  speedily  manifested  upon  some  of  the  girls,  who 
assumed  a  variety  of  attitudes,  and  commenced  a  hura,  or  chant,  that 
will  not  admit  of  description.  The  young  man  with  the  red  band, 
after  a  few  oratorical  gestures,  seized  a  large  poi  calabash,  and  with 


106  Recf-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

a  stone  pestle  commenced  a  series  of  spiritual  rappings.  As  for  me, 
I  could  never  perceive,  from  that  time  to  this,  that  I  was  in  the 
slightest  degree  affected  by  it.  But  Allaire,  whose  libations  had 
been  copious,  soon  began  to  manifest  symptoms  peculiar  to  persons 
who  are  "  three  sheets  in  the  wind  ;"  that  is,  eyelids  drooped,  nether 
jaw  slightly  ajar,  while  the  head  lacked  stability  of  position,  giving 
to  his  physiognomy  an  air  of  innocent  stupidity,  as  much  as  to  say, 
"  Oh,  don't  be  afraid  ;  it's  only  me  !" 

Presently  he  raised  the  empty  gourd,  and  poising  it  gracefully 
upon  the  extremities  of  his  fingers,  and  emphasizing  each  word, 
said : 

"  Doc. !  permit  me  to  say  to  you,  in  the  language  of  the  immortal 
Swiveller,  *  May  the  wing  of  friendship  never  moult  a  feather ! ' 
(Here  succeeded  a  fit  of  nodding.)  I  intend  bringing  forward  seve- 
ral interesting  cases  at  the  next  session  of  Cupid's  court." 

He  continued  giving  birth  to  his  incoherent  wit,  interesting  only 
to  the  brain  that  conceived  it,  and  the  more  ludicrous  as  he  after- 
wards attempted  to  lick  it  into  shape. 

It  was  past  nine  when  we  returned  the  salutations  of  the  dusky 
bacchanals.  The  night  was  dark  and  cloudy,  and  Allaire,  who  pre- 
served his  equilibrium  in  a  wonderful  degree,  voluntarily  took  the 
lead  to  pilot  me  through  a  labyrinth  of  trees  and  taro-patches.  I 
grew  nervous  as  we  approached  the  deceitful  margins  of  the  latter. 
He  was  several  paces  in  advance,  and1  barely  discernible  in  the 
obscurity.  Suddenly  I  heard  a  plunge,  followed  immediately  by  a 
terrible  floundering.  Cautiously  I  reached  the  spot,  and  to  my  dis- 
may saw  my  quondam  pilot  immersed  to  his  neck  in  a  pool  of  muddy 
water,  and  clutching  nervously  at  a  clump  of  sugar-cane  that  grew 
on  the  brink. 

"Just  in  time,  Doc.,"  said  Allaire.  "I'm  trying  to  decline  the 
esculent  noun  arum,  (taro,)  and  I  want  your  assistance." 

I  pulled  him  out,  and  in  doing  so,  received  a  liberal  coating  of  the 
black  mud  with  which  he  was  completely  covered.  We  then  kept 
close  together,  and  proceeding  more  cautiously,  reached  our  quarters 
without  further  adventure. 

******* 

Five  years  have  flitted  imperceptibly  by,  five  seasons  of  buoyant 


Reflections  on  the  Past.  107 

hopes  and  darkening  sorrows,  to  leave  their  indelible  impress  upon 
the  brief  span  of  human  endurance  ;  and  yet,  barely  a  point  in  time, 
insignificant  as  the  thistle-down  that  floats  upon  eddying  winds, 
when  thrown  into  the  great  cycle  of  eternity.  Old  friendships,  hal- 
lowed by  endearing  associations,  have  been  rudely  severed,  and  new 
ones  cemented.  Scenes  of  joy  and  gladness,  and  a  host  of  bygones, 
fling  around  us  a  halo  of  soothing  memories  to  charm  for  a  moment, 
ere,  dim  and  lustreless,  they  pale  before  the  stalking  phantoms  of 
reality. 

Poor  Allaire !  His  is  a  coral  tomb  in  tranquil  depths,  where 
myriads  of  tiny  architects  have  woven  a  fairy  grot  of  crystal  corymbs 
and  arborescent  branches.  Restless  surges,  forever  dashing  against 
rocky  barriers,  fling  o'er  him  a  snowy  winding-sheet,  and  moan  an 
eternal  dirge. 

From  broken  storm-clouds  that  whirl  around  summits  of  the  ev- 
erlasting mountains  have  issued  solemn  voices.  Though,  like 
"  deep  calling  unto  deep,"  mysterious  tones  have  trembled  through 
their  dark  labyrinths,  and  fearful  spirits  have  ridden  forth  upon  the 
blast,  he  will  sleep  securely  upon  his  azure  bed  until  a  Mightier 
breathes  upon  the  troubled  ocean. 

Another  has  gone. 

Breezes  of  refreshing  coolness  rustle  through  the  palm  groves,  and 
beneath  shady  canopies,  where  the  dark  and  glossy  leaves  of  the 
breadfruit  intermingle  with  the  silvery  foliage  of  the  candlenut, 
happy  groups  are  twining  garlands. 

Starry  night  looks  down  upon  the  sleeping  landscape  ;  mountain, 
valley  and  grove  are  blended  in  silent  shadows,  and  hearts  are 
throbbing. 

A  wail  of  human  woe  swells  upon  the  midnight  air,  then  dies 
away  in  tearful  cadence,  and  lights  flash  dimly  amid  the  gloom. 
Above  scenes  of  terrestrial  brightness,  a  spirit  hovers — now  it  wings 
its  way  to  the  starry  vault.  From  dark  valleys  creeps  the  night- 
wind,  sighing  mournfully  among  the  ferns,  and  whispering  through 
leafy  branches  ;  until,  across  mountain  heath,  through  wild  ravines, 
o'er  the  moaning  sea,  and  amid  fragrant  groves,  we  hear  the  mystic 


108  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

voices  of  the  spirit-legion  mingle  with  the  gale — saying,  "  We  live 
forever." 

Four  years  have  passed  since  the  little  Lani  was  laid  to  rest. 
The  seasons  roll  round.  Joyous  sunlight  gladdens  the  heart,  and 
dew-drops  sparkle  upon  the  "  opening  blossoms  of  the  ohia ;"  but  the 
rain-cloud  weeps  upon  the  mourning  plumes  of  the  pandanus,  and 
night-winds  sigh  among  the  bleak  hills  of  Kaa-na-pa-li. 


CHAPTER    IV, 

ROYAL    YACHT    KAMEHAMEHA. 

HOWEVER  agreeable  it  may  be  to  indulge  the  propensity  for  loung- 
ing, something  substantial  is  required  to  support  it.  The  beauty  of 
a  cocoanut-tree  is  in  nowise  enhanced  when  one  is  compelled  to  re- 
sort to  the  tedious  process  of  climbing  to  obtain  the  fruit.  I  stumbled 
across  three  of  my  shipmates,  who  asked  my  advice  ;  of  course  I 
recommended  industry,  and  read  them  a  chapter  on  the  folly  of  idle- 
ness. Two  of  them  shipped  for  another  cruise,  but  the  third  turned 
his  attention  to  digging  potatoes  somewhere  in  the  Kula  district. 

J  have  omitted  to  mention  that  the  epidemic  for  emigration  to  the 
recently  discovered  gold  placers  of  California  had  extended  to 
Hawaii,  and  that  there  was  a  consequent  dearth  of  foreign  population 
in  Lahaina  and  other  towns  ;  though  a  month  previous  I  would  have 
bound  myself  that  my  aspirations  should  not  extend  beyond  a  resting- 
place  on  terra  firma,  at  the  end  of  that  period  notions  of  beauty  had 
become  vapid,  and  tropical  fascinations  were  at  a  discount. 

The  beautiful  yacht  Kamehameha  was  at  that  time  making  regu- 
lar trips  between  Honolulu  and  Lahaina,  and  one  day  I  determined 
to  embark  and  have  a  peep  at  the  capital.  Packets  plying  between 
the  two  ports  usually  get  under  way  about  two  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  and  long  before  that  hour  the  shore  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
boat  canal  is  lined  with  natives  ;  some  of  them,  passengers  encum- 
bered with  calabashes  containing  food  and  raiment,  and  others, 


Peculiarities  of  a  Hawaiian  Packet.  1 09 

friends  come  to  say  farewell ;  but  by  far  the  greater  portion  are 
idlers  and  hangers-on,  who,  having  nothing  else  to  do,  prowl  about 
precisely  as  loafers  would  around  the  docks  of  a  city.  Boats  ply 
between  the  schooner  and  shore  to  convey  passengers  and  luggage. 
If  there  be  little  or  no  surf,  it  is  attended  without  inconvenience ;  but 
when  the  opposite  is  the  case,  the  boat  requires  careful  watching  by 
an  experienced  crew  to  avoid  being  capsized  in  the  breakers,  to  say 
nothing  of  a  drenching. 

When  I  arrived  on  board,  I  found  the  crew  heaving  at  the  wind- 
lass, the  mainsail  having  already  been  hoisted.  The  boat  was  still 
in  requisition  ;  and  this,  together  with  canoes  discharging  their 
freights  on  deck,  lent  animation  to  the  scene.  It  was  a  Babel  of 
noise  and  confusion.  There  were  pigs,  poultry,  and  old  women 
huddled  promiscuously  together ;  I  noticed  a  silver-haired  ma- 
tron, with  a  full-grown  dog  in  her  arms,  (a  parody  on  the  pugs  of 
fashion,)  expostulating  with  some  one  in  a  canoe  about  the  ownership 
of  a  calabash.  Some  of  the  fairer  portion  had  left  the  adjustment 
of  difficulties  to  their  lords,  and  spreading  their  mats,  had  taken  up 
positions  on  the  quarter-deck,  where  they  were  sporting  parasols  and 
bright  yellow  leis,  or  wreaths  of  the  lauhala,  (pandanus.)  The  for- 
eigners on  these  occasions  chiefly  remain  aft,  having  the  monopoly 
of  the  cabin,  but  many  prefer  sleeping  on  deck,  as  the  heat  below 
is  oppressive.  Akoni,  the  well-known  Hawaiian  mariner,  was  our 
commander,  a  good-natured  and  competent  person;  but  like  most 
natives,  the  idea  of  discipline  and  respect  never  entered  his  head, 
and  I  have  seen  him  devouring  cuttle-fish  with  his  cook,  with  the 
same  familiarity  that  characterized  feasting  with  his  passengers. 

In  due  season  the  order  was  given,  and  the  anchor  "peaked." 
Coming  gracefully  around,  the  "  Kammey"  caught  the  breeze  on  the 
larboard  tJtk,  and  though  light,  we  made  good  progress  through  the 
water,  for  she  was  a  fast  sailer.  In  our  rear  was  the  barren  island 
of  Kahulawe,  and  on  our  right  the  rugged  peaks  of  Maui  ;  La-inai 
loomed  on  the  left,  while  in  front  were  the  densely-wooded  ravines 
and  cloud-capped  summits  of  Molokai.  With  a  freshening  breeze, 
we  dashed  along,  until  Lahaina  seemed  but  a  narrow  strip  of  verdure 
fringing  the  base  of  a  barren  mountain  ;  and  gradually  as  we  opened 
the  broad  channel  between  Maui  and  Molokai,  we  caught  the  full 


110  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

force  of  the  trades  that  sometimes  sweep  through  these  inter-island 
passages  with  the  fury  of  a  tempest.  Without  reducing  sail,  we 
scudded  rapidly  before  it,  and  while  others  were  chatting  and  laugh- 
ing, I  was  watching  the  novelty  and  beauty  of  the  scenery.  But 
familiarity  begets  indifference,  and  during  subsequent  passages  I 
have  found  more  agreeable  entertainment  in  noticing  incidents  of 
character  than  indulging  poetic  abstractions. 

Not  the  least  interesting  spectacle  was  to  witness  their  prepara- 
tions for  supper,  a  duty  which  usually  devolves  on  the  old  men. 
Young  cocoanuts  and  melons,  before  unnoticed,  now  made  their  ap- 
pearance, and  the  sennit  lashings  of  huge  calabashes  were  unfastened 
and  their  contents  investigated.  Fishes,  that  looked  as  though  they 
had  been  embalmed  for  at  least  a  century,  made  to  native  eyes  a 
tempting  display  beside  the  everlasting  poi,  and  large  lumps  of  the 
forbidden  flesh  resembled  miniature  islands  in  calabashes  of  salt  and 
water.  There  were  famished-looking  dogs  that  took  up  positions 
favorable  for  observation,  and  maintained  an  equilibrium  despite  the 
rolling  of  the  vessel.  Any  person  who  has  ever  seen  a  Hawaiian  at 
his  meals,  and  noticed  the  dexterous  manner  in  which  he  twirls 
the  glutinous  mass  around  his  fingers  and  conveys  it  to  his  mouth, 
and  heard  the  hearty  smack  that  follows,  can  never  for  an  instant 
entertain  a  doubt  of  his  sincerity.  No  unnecessary  delay  is  occa- 
sioned by  formalities,  and  their  meals  are  soon  dispatched  and 
everything  snugly  secured,  after  which  they  laugh,  joke,  and  chant 
their  meles. 

Before  sunset,  we  had  passed  Lahaina,  and  the  low,  barren  portion 
of  Molokai,  stretching  out  towards  the  west,  was  on  our  right.  As 
the  broad  disk  was  resting  upon  the  horizon,  its  farewell  rays  lit 
up  a  strange  but  touching  scene.  Every  head  was  uncovered,  every 
whisper  hushed,  and  the  voice  of  prayer  ascended  in  the%till  even- 
ing. Nothing  could  be  more  appropriate  than  for  hearts  of  sincerity 
to  offer  up  their  humble  acknowledgments  to  their  Creator  under  the 
broad  canopy  of  heaven.  But  these  devotions  are  of  lale  years 
omitted  ;  deteriorating  influences  have  begotten  more  the  fear  of 
worldly  contempt  than  reverence  for  spiritual  duty. 

Their  preparations  for  sleep  occasion  them  no  inconvenience. 
Mats  are  spread  and  kiheis  unfolded  ;  laughing  and  joking,  they 


Noble  and  Plebeian  Distinctions.  Ill 

good-humoredly  lie  down  upon  the  hard  deck,  both  sexes,  old  and 
young,  huddled  promiscuously  together.  Sometimes  the  deck  of  a 
schooner  is  completely  encumbered  ;  and  occasionally  during  the 
night,  when  looking  at  the  prostrate  sleepers  with  their  heads  cov- 
ered, I  have  seen  a  solitary  form  arise  and  commence  a  silent 
attack  upon  the  calabashes.  We  had  with  us  a  chief  and  his  wife 
from  Hawaii,  who,  with  their  attendants,  monopolized  the  long-boat, 
and  whom  the  plebeians  around  looked  upon  with  reverence.  Her 
grace  was  portly,  and  had  a  haughty  manner  of  intimating  her 
wishes.  The  boat  was  lined  with  soft  beds  and  counterpanes,  be- 
sides containing  other  articles  conducive  to  comfort.  Two  or  three 
female  attendants  paid  attention  to  umbrella,  fan,  and  spittoon,  while 
his  lordship  appeared  to  be  a  nonentity.  There  is,  perhaps,  no  na- 
tion where  the  distinction  between  noble  and  plebeian  is  more 
strongly  defined  than  among  the  Hawaii ans.  The  former  are  char- 
acterized by  corpulency  or  powerful  proportions  and  a  majestic  gait ; 
while  the  latter,  according  to  our  taste,  are  more  agile  and  delicate, 
possessing  their  peculiar  beauty  in  a  greater  degree  than  their  supe- 
riors. Some  one  hinted  to  her  ladyship  that  I  had  a  miniature 
which  had  been  fortunately  saved  from  the  wreck  of  personal  prop- 
erty, and  as  she  expressed  a  desire  to  look  at  it,  I  handed  it  to  her. 
After  closely  scrutinizing  the  face,  coloring,  and  more  especially  the 
embossed  case,  she  returned  it,  observing,  in  a  primo  basso  tone, 
"  Maikai,  likapu  he  wahine  maole"  which  a  bystander  was  kind 
enough  to  interpret,  "  Good  !  it  resembles  a  native  woman."  With- 
out comment  on  her  taste,  I  thanked  her  for  the  compliment,  wonder- 
ing that  I  had  never  before  detected  the  affinity  between  Saxon  and 
Polynesian  beauty. 

Accepting  the  invitation,  I  shared  the  mat  and  kihei  of  one  of 
the  natives,  who  are  generally  kind  and  hospitable,  expecting  a 
similar  return  ;  and  yet  it  is  remarkable  that  in  their  language  they 
have  no  word  expressive  of  either  thanks  or  gratitude.  On  one  oc- 
casion, while  going  from  Honolulu  to  Lahaina,  we  had  rough  weather, 
and  the  spray  was  continually  dashing  aboard,  causing  such  as  were 
unprovided  to  shiver  with  the  cold.  I  gave  my  blankets  to  an  old 
woman  crouched  down  near  the  companionway,  who,  looking  up, 
simply  remarked,  "  Lokomaikai  oe"  (you  are  generous.) 


112  Eeef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 


CHAPTER    V. 

HONOLULU. 

As  soon  as  it  was  light,  the  barren  mountains  of  Oahu  were  in 
sight,  looking  if  anything  more  sterile  than  those  of  West  Maui ;  but 
they  were  relieved  by  the  bright  verdure  that  seemed  nestling  in  the 
valleys  and  sometimes  creeping  along  their  ridges.  There  was  lit- 
tle or  no  wind,  and  for  a  short  time  we  were  becalmed  off  Diamond 
Head.  This  is  an  extinct  crater,  and  its  peculiar  formation,  with  its 
stratified  cliffs  rising  from  the  plains  of  Waikiki,  renders  it  a  con- 
spicuous landmark  for  vessels  approaching  Honolulu.  It  was  nine 
o'clock  before  we  caught  a  light  breeze,  and  the  water  being  clear 
as  crystal,  the  most  delicate  formations  of  coral  could  be  distinctly 
traced  on  the  bottom  as  we  glided  along.  Waikiki,  with  its  exten- 
sive cocoanut  grove,  was  on  our  right,  and  the  broad  plain  of  Hono- 
lulu and  the  smiling  valley  of  Nuuanu  were  every  moment  becoming 
more  distinct.  As  we  approached  nearer,  I  was  agreeably  disa-p- 
pointed  in  the  appearance  of  the  town,  it  being  much  larger  and  more 
regularly  laid  out  than  I  had  anticipated.  Few  vessels  were  in  the 
harbor,  but  these,  anchored  near  the  temporary  wharves,  gave  an  air 
of  business  to  the  scene,  which  was  enhanced  by  the  appearance  of 
the  substantial  warehouses  clustering  near  them.  The  passage 
through  the  reef  is  somewhat  intricate  ;  but  it  has  been  carefully 
buoyed,  and  with  a  commanding  breeze,  vessels  may  enter  and  depart 
without  difficulty,  the  breakers  rolling  in  sheets  of  foam  on  either 
side.  The  harbor  is  small,  and  I  have  seen  it  filled  with  shipping, 
which  also  obstructed  the  passage,  while  a  number  of  vessels  for  want 
of  room  had  anchored,  and  were  lying  off  and  on  outside  the  reef. 
The  "  Kammey"  worked  like  a  top,  and  by  ten  o'clock  she  was 
snugly  moored  in  the  lagoon,  and  boats  and  canoes  were  waiting  to 
convey  passengers  to  the  shore.  By  invitation,  I  took  up  my  abode 
at  the  "  Hotel  de  France,"  a  clean-looking  building,  with  a  comfort- 
able verandah  and  a  yard  well  shaded  by  trees. 

Having  frequently  visited  Honolulu  during  the  last  few  years,  it 


An  "Island  City"  described.  113 

may  be  well  to  notice  it  more  particularly,  to  avoid  repetition  here- 
after ;  although,  from  its  intimate  association  with  California,  there 
are  thousands  to  whom  a  recapitulation  of  what  they  have  seen  will 
be  of  little  interest.  Like  San  Francisco,  it  has  made  gigantic  strides 
in  improvement,  and  become  a  city.  The  stranger  who  promenades 
its  streets,  but  for  the  distant  landscape,  would  fancy  himself  at 
home,  or  what  would  come  nearer  the  truth,  in  an  English  or  Ameri- 
can colony. 

The  town,  with  all  its  neatness,  has  some  irregularities  in  the  ar- 
rangement of  its  streets,  which,  instead  of  crossing  at  right  angles, 
sometimes  intersect  each  other  diagonally,  forming  triangular  and  ir- 
regular lots.  A  few  of  them  are  inconveniently  narrow.  The  prin- 
cipal is  Main  Street,  a  broad  thoroughfare  bisecting  the  town 
through  its  entire  length,  stretching  away  to  Pearl  River  on  the 
west,  and  to  the  plains  of  Waikiki  on  the  east.  This  is  crossed  at 
right  angles  by  Nuuanu  Street ;  commencing  at  the  sea  and  passing 
through  the  compact  portion  of  the  town,  it  descends  a  gentle  de- 
clivity, and  continues  up  the  beautiful  valley  of  Nuuanu,  adorned  by 
villas  and  luxuriant  vegetation,  until,  at  a  distance  of  seven  or  eight 
miles,  it  terminates  at  the  "  Pali,"  or  an  abrupt  precipice,  memorable 
in  Hawaiian  annals  as  the  spot  where  the  hosts  of  the  King  of  Oahu 
took  their  fatal  leap  before  the  victorious  arms  of  Kamehameha  the 
Great.  The  streets  are  generally  kept  neat  and  clean,  and  the  light 
or  substantial  dwellings  of  foreigners  are  scattered  at  irregular  in- 
tervals on  either  side  ;  some  of  them  are  elegant.  The  material 
of  which  they  are  built  is  wood,  and  sometimes  of  coral  blocks  taken 
from  the  reef;  these  being  covered  with  cement  and  tastefully 
shaded,  resemble  granite  or  freestone,  and  the  dwelling,  with  its 
verandah  and  green  Venetians,  has  an  inviting  appearance.  The 
dilapidated  native  huts  scattered  here  and  there  are  mere  excres- 
cences, and  are  fast  disappearing. 

Among  the  public  buildings  of  Honolulu  is  the  Government  House, 
a  two-story  edifice,  substantially  built  of  neatly  dressed  coral  blocks. 
It  was  formerly  occupied  by  the  Legislative  Council  during  its  ses- 
sions, but  is  now  devoted  almost  exclusively  to  offices  of  the  Home 
and  Foreign  Departments.  Over  the  arched  gateway  of  the  court 
has  been  placed,  by  way  of  ornament  or  effect,  the  gilded  diadem  of 

8 


114  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

regal  dignity.  In  the  erection  of  the  Custom-House,  reference  has 
been  had  to  service  rather  than  architectural  decoration.  It  is  a 
plain  three-story  building,  conveniently  located  near  the  water. 
From  the  harbor,  the  eye  seeks  in  vain  for  a  more  attractive  object 
than  the  Market,  situated  near  the  principal  wharf.  It  is  neat  and 
appropriate,  and  would  be  an  ornament  to  any  town.  The  Court- 
House,  bounded  on  the  east  by  Fort  Street,  and  a  short  distance 
to  the  right,  is  a  more  elaborate  structure  than  either  of  the  others 
referred  to.  It  is  subservient  to  the  requirements  of  Capitol,  Halls 
of  Justice,  and  ecclesiastical  convocations.  These  buildings  are  all 
of  coral,  and  within  the  circuit  of  one-fourth  of  a  mile  of  each  other. 

The  Palace,  on  Main  Street,  is  barely  visible,  owing  to  its  confined 
situation,  being  surrounded  by  massive  walls  of  coral,  inclosing  a  gar- 
den of  young  trees ;  but  it  is  roomy,  having  spacious  apartments,  some 
of  them  decorated  with  the  relics  of  antiquity,  and  others  with  the 
designs  of  art.  The  Fort,  situated  at  the  water's  edge,  is,  like  that 
of  Lahaina,  used  more  as  a  prison  than  a  national  defence,  and  at 
any  hour  of  the  day  two  or  three  sentinels  may  be  seen  lounging  lazily 
upon  its  ramparts.  At  the  present  time  there  are  substantial  wharves, 
where  vessels  of  a  large  class  may  lie  alongside  and  discharge  their 
cargoes,  while  the  emulous  competition  of  the  native  boat-boys  for 
your  real,  strongly  reminds  one  of  larger  cities.  Within  a  few  years 
carriages  have  been  introduced,  and  neat  equipages  roll  along  the 
streets  that  were  formerly  disturbed  only  by  the  equestrian  or  small 
vehicle  drawn  by  hand.  With  reference  to  the  latter  mode  of  con- 
veyance, which  is  occasionally  resorted  to  at  the  present  day,  I 
cannot  conceive  that  any  ignominy  should  be  attached  to  its  proprie- 
tor for  having  a  couple  of  lazy  natives  to  drag  it,  thus  diverting  them 
from  idleness,  or  perhaps  worse.  I  have  seen  in  the  East  Indies  the 
sedan  employed,  but  have  never  learned  that  a  breath  of  reproach  was 
incurred  by  those  who  adopted  this  means  of  conveyance.  As  to 
society,  Honolulu  is  not  a  whit  behind  the  age,  and  the  associations 
of  refinement  pertaining  to  more  extensive  communities  may  here 
be  enjoyed,  though  in  a  minor  degree,  and  fetes,  balls,  and  excur- 
sions are  frequently  the  order  of  the  day. 

The  street  scenes  are  of  "  all  sorts" — a  medley  of  costumes 
and  creeds — colors  and  castes.  The  worshippers  of  Fo  step  ner- 


Views  about  Toivn.  115 


vously  along  in  their  flowing  robes  of  embroidered  silk,  and  the 
straggling  Lascar  readjusts  his  turban  as  he  leers  at  the  native 
syren.  Garments  that  would  be  cynosures  upon  the  Boulevard  are 
in  juxtaposition  with  dress-coats  that  might  have  distracted  belles 
half  a  century  ago.  A  distinguished  citizen  once  remarked  to  me 
that  he  admired  Honolulu  because  fashions  of  all  climes  and  ages 
were  tolerated  with  impunity.  Muslin  robes  and  chameleon  parasols 
are  no  longer  apparitions,  for  the  sunlight  is  reflected  in  the  coquet- 
tish smiles  of  northern  beauty  where  parties  a  la  mode  enjoy  a  pic- 
nic amid  the  classic  scenes  of  Hawaiian  mythology.  The  native 
belles  merit  a  passing  word.  Hand  in  hand  they  lounge  leisurely 
through  the  street,  sometimes  with  wreaths  upon  their  heads,  or, 
again,  they  sport  a  fine  Panama  with  a  broad,  black  ribbon.  They 
are  usually  occupied  with  staring  at  the  show-windows  that  exhibit 
the  most  gaudy  display  of  recently  imported  millinery,  and  some  of 
them  would  dispute  for  an  hour  upon  the  respective  merits  of  head- 
dresses. Though  prodigal  of  their  smiles,  they  are  sensitive  to  ridi- 
cule, and  a  vocabulary  of  invectives  is  sometimes  showered  upon  the 
offender  who  trespasses  beyond  the  limits  of  propriety.  It  is  inter- 
esting to  witness  the  meeting  of  two  old  persons,  for  with  all  their 
faults,  the  Hawaiians  are  an  affectionate  people,  and  their  warm 
hearts  are  ever  open  to  the  impulses  of  humanity.  First,  there  is  an 
aloha  of  recognition,  then  an  embrace,  accompanied  by  collision  of 
noses  ;  after  which  follows  a  wail  of  discord,  to  be  succeeded  by 
grimaces  and  mutual  congratulations. 

The  market  presents  a  busy  scene  in  the  morning.  Neatly-attired 
widows,  who  advertise  for  "  a  few  select  gentlemen,  &c.,"  trip  along 
the  clean  streets  accompanied  by  their  servants,  and  visit  it  to  select 
fresh  joints.  It  is  thronged  by  old  and  young  of  all  classes  and 
colors,  haggling  about  the  price  of  fish,  poultry,  and  esculents  of 
every  description.  There  is  laughing,  jostling,  and  joking,  and 
everywhere  an  air  of  good-humor.  The  old  women  of  the  stalls 
have  an  Israelitish  propensity  for  coirt,  yet  their  cupidity  is  tempered 
with  caution.  If  you  toss  them  a  piece  upon  which  the  nose  of 
either  her  Majesty  the  Queen  or  that  of  the  Goddess  of  Liberty  has 
by  some  mishap  received  a  contusion,  in  nine  instances  out  of  ten 
it  will  be  rejected. 


116  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

An  animated  spectacle  may  be  witnessed  in  the  streets  every 
Saturday  afternoon,  when  nags  and  hacks  of  every  description  are 
pressed  into  service.  On  these  occasions,  the  natives  are  arrayed 
in  all  their  finery ;  the  men  in  black  or  white  trowsers  and  clean 
Panama  hats,  (their  rims  invariably  drooped,)  and  the  females  in 
their  silks  and  muslins,  their  hats  and  necks  decorated  with  wreaths. 
Either  from  convenience  or  habit,  in  sitting  upon  their  steeds  the 
females  have  adopted  the  custom  of  their  lords ;  and  girding  their 
waists  with  Turkey-red,  or  some  other  gaudily-colored  fabric,  they 
make  a  flaunting  display  of  their  skirts  fluttering  in  the  wind. 
Waikiki  appears  to  be  the  favorite  place  of  rendezvous  ;  and  at  any 
time  during  the  afternoon,  the  road  is  thronged  with  Amazonian 
squadrons  and  detached  horsemen  dashing  by  at  headlong  speed, 
and  scattering  the  dust  in  clouds.  I  have  seen  two  parties,  each 
composed  of  male  and  female  riders,  coming  at  full  gallop  from  op- 
posite directions,  and  without  checking  a  rein  or  swerving  to  the 
right  or  left,  come  in  full  collision  with  each  other,  whereby  several 
were  thrown  headlong  to  the  earth,  and  more  or  less  injured.  As 
might  be  supposed,  accidents  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  I  was  at 
Maui  on  one  occasion,  when  a  girl,  with  the  recklessness  of  exuber- 
ant spirits,  was  galloping  along  the  street,  and  just  as  she  had 
reached  the  road  leading  to  the  chapel,  the  horse  became  frightened — 
suddenly  stopped,  and  the  girl  plunged  headlong  upon  the  rocks  that 
abound  in  that  vicinity.  Her  skull  was  fractured,  and  she  survived 
the  injury  but  a  few  hours. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

THE    SAME    CONTINUED. 

THERE  is  another  feature  of  Honolulu  which  I  noticed  during  my 
last  visit,  and  which  would  be  an  interesting  subject  for  the  contem- 
plation of  our  professors  of  the  agile  talent  at  home ;  I  allude  to  the 
dance-houses.  These  places  of  diversion  have  multiplied  through- 
out the  city,  and  a  congregation  of  some  description  is  of  almost 


Evidences  of  National  Prosperity.  117 

nightly  occurrence.  Dancing  is  an  agreeable  pastime,  and  the  rec- 
reation might  be  conducted  without  detriment  to  the  natives ;  but 
an  assemblage  of  this  description  is  little  better  than  a  rendezvous 
for  assignation.  The  appearance  of  the  girls  in  foreign  costume 
strongly  reminds  one  of  the  Mexican  chulus  at  their  fandangos,  and 
to  do  them  justice,  some  of  them  display  their  forms  to  advantage, 
and  dance  and  waltz  gracefully.  Though  looked  upon  as  a  moral 
pest,  the  legislature  as  yet  has  done  nothing  towards  their  suppres- 
sion. It  is  a  delicate  task  for  jurisprudence  to  draw  the  exceed- 
ingly nice  distinction  that  exists  between  right  and  wrong.  It 
would  be  deemed  arbitrary  to  prevent  a  convivial  party  from  assem- 
bling in  a  public  room  and  dispersing  at  the  appointed  hour. 

The  civil  and  religious  institutions  of  Honolulu  are  progressive, 
and  afford  a  pleasanter  theme.  Her  Christian  associations  of  va- 
rious denominations,  her  united  charitable  institutions,  library  so- 
ciety, diffusion  of  knowledge  by  the  press,  and  the  association 
for  the  development  of  agricultural  resources,  and  above  all,  the 
impartial  administration  of  justice  in  her  courts,  are  not  only  evi- 
dences of  the  constituent  elements  of  society,  but  they  give  Hawaii 
pre-eminence  over  all  other  kingdoms  whose  resources  are  con- 
fined to  as  limited  territorial  dominion.  Already,  from  her  own 
contributions,  has  a  mission  been  established  in  Micronesia,  which 
has  been  warmly  welcomed  by  the  natives  of  those  groups,  and 
she  has  thrown  out,  as  it  were,  a  band  of  pioneers  to  explore  the 
field  of  the  Marquesas.  The  hospitality  of  her  citizens  to  those 
whom  shipwreck  and  misfortune  have  thrown  upon  her  shores  has 
been  frequently  noticed ;  and  though  abounding  in  vicious  tempta- 
tions, the  seamen  who  roam  the  streets  can  offer  no  excuse  for%  their 
indulgence.  There  is  a  library  appropriated  exclusively  for  their 
benefit,  and  there  are  those  whose  duty  it  is  to  offer  the  consolations 
of  spiritual  advice  to  such  as  may  require  them. 

In  its  appropriate  place,!  should  have  noticed  the  leading  features 
of  the  surrounding  country,  which,  though  in  the  main  devoid  of  the 
characteristic  beauty  of  the  South  Sea  Islands,  still  possess  much 
that  is  attractive.  The  absence  of  trees  at  first  strikes  the  observer 
as  the  principal  defect,  and  although  no  efforts  have  been  spared  for 
their  introduction,  they  never  attain  the  luxuriant  growth  that  ren- 


118  Reef-Rowings  in  the  South  Seas. 


ders  them  so  attractive  in  other  portions  of  the  group.  The  soil  is  in 
many  places  light  and  porous,  and  excavations  to  the  depth  of  a  few 
feet  disclose  a  stratum  of  volcanic  cinders,  which,  together  with  the 
slight  depth  of  the  superincumbent  earth,  retards  the  natural  growth 
of  vegetation.  A  sinuous  stream  that  waters  Nuuanu  Valley,  dis- 
embogues into  the  sea  on  the  western  side  of  the  town,  and  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  shore  a  few  scattered  cocoanut-trees  rise  from  its 
banks.  The  extinct  crater  of  Punchbowl,  bounding  the  plain  in 
the  rear  of  the  town,  is  a  conspicuous  object  for  the  eye  to  rest  upon, 
owing  to  its  peculiar  formation  and  commanding  appearance.  It  is 
crowned  with  a  rude  battery,  and  its  sides,  at  almost  regular  inter- 
vals, are  deeply  furrowed,  leaving  prominent  ridges  standing  forth 
like  the  bastions  of  sonte  antiquated  fortress.  Here  may  be  obtained 
a  grand  view  of  the  surrounding  scenery ;  and  Waikiki  plains,  the 
city  with  its  shipping,  and  the  distant  mountains  of  Ewa,  together 
with  the  sea  and  its  fringe  of  breakers,  are  spread  out  like  a  vast 
panorama.  The  mountains  in  the  rear,  rising  to  no  great  elevation, 
are  crowned  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  vegetation,  which  between 
the  ridges  creeps  down  into  the  valleys  in  bright  strips  of  verdure. 

By  far  the  most  pleasing  feature  is  Nuuanu  Valley  ;  descend- 
ing the  gentle  slope  from  the  level  of  the  town,  you  ride  leisurely 
along  the  smooth  road,  and  on  either  side  are  green  fields,  diversi- 
fied with  snug  cottages,  native  huts,  and  miniature  gardens,  having 
a  picturesque  effect.  Continuing  to  advance,  the  road  gradually  as- 
cends, and  on  either  side  rise  more  substantial  residences,  their  in- 
closures  adorned  by  shrubbery,  both  native  and  exotic.  Neatly 
painted  mile-posts  are  placed  at  regular  intervals,  affording  con- 
veniejit  reference,  and  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  the  town  is 
shut  out  by  the  winding  of  the  valley  and  the  projecting  mountain 
spurs.  A  perceptible  change  in  the  atmosphere  is  now  experienced; 
and  the  streamlet,  almost  before  unnoticed,  is  seen  leaping  from  crags, 
or  heard  rippling  over  its  stony  bed  by  the  roadside.  The  valley 
has  grown  narrower,  and  its  sides  are  covered  with  a  sea  of  ver- 
dure variegated  by  the  bright  foliage  of  the  candlenut.  Scarce  a 
house  is  to  be  seen,  and  the  heavy  vapor  sweeping  along  the  moun- 
tain's side  and  descending  into  the  valley  has  a  chilling  aspect. 
After  fastening  your  horse  behind  a  woody  knoll,  to  protect  it  from 


Romantic  Scenery  of  the  "Pali"  119 

the  violence  of  the  wind,  which  sometimes,  compressed  by  the  moun- 
tains, comes  sweeping  like  a  tempest  through  the  gorge,  you  ascend 
to  the  brow  of  the  pah,  or  precipice,  and  a  view  of  unsurpassed 
grandeur  bursts  upon  the  sight.  It  is  one  of  those  scenes  to  attempt 
a  description  of  which  can  never  gratify  the  curiosity  of  the  reader, 
and  is  only  embarrassing  to  the  writer  ;  to  be  appreciated  it  must  be 
seen.  On  either  side,  hemmed  in  by  mountains,  you  stand  as  it  were 
at  the  circumference  of  a  vast  amphitheatre,  and  look  down  upon  the 
varied  landscape  beneath.  Broad  forests  sweeping  away  from  the 
mountain's  base,  seem  dwindled  into  shrubs,  and  hill  and  valley, 
with  smiling  aspect,  are  like  the  inequalities  that  characterize  a  gar- 
den of  art.  Often  a  narrow  streak  in  the  reddish  soil  denotes  the 
course  of  a  road,  which  is  lost  by  the  winding  of  a  valley  or  an  in- 
tervening hill,  when  its  continuation  beyond  is  again  marked  until 
lost  in  the  distance.  On  the  left  the  prospect  is  bounded  by  the  am- 
phitheatre of  mountains,  which,  extending  around  toward  the  sea, 
terminate  in  blue  ridges  almost  blending  with  the  sky ;  iri  front  ex- 
tends the  broad  ocean,  and  the  whitish  tinge  of  the  water  near  the 
shore  denotes  the  coral  barrier.  A  spiral  path  for  horses  has  been 
constructed  down  the  face  of  the  cliff  on  the  right,  and  the  scene  is 
occasionally  enlivened  by  the  natives  from  Kolau  toiling  up  its  steep 
ascent,  with  their  beasts  ladened  with  produce  for  market. 

In  their  way,  there  are  associations  connected  with  the  pali 
deeply  interesting,  embodying  events  whose  result  was  the  subjuga- 
tion of  a  kingdom.  After  sustaining  a  vigorous  siege,  the  forces  of 
the  King  of  Oahu,  unable  longer  to  hold  out  against  the  superior 
discipline  of  the  warriors  of  Kamehameha,  retreated  up  the  valley, 
until  their  course  was  checked  by  the  abyss,  into  which  they  leaped, 
and  their  bones  were  left  to  bleach  beneath  the  rugged  cliffs  of 
Kolau. 


120  Reef-Rowings  in  the  South  Seas. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

INCIDENTS    OF    SOJOURN. 

"  MINE  host"  of  the  "  Hotel  de  France,"  though  possessing  the 
whims  and  oddities  peculiar  to  a  Frenchman,  was  an  obliging  land- 
lord, and  displayed  no  little  skill  in  catering  for  the  wants  of  his 
guests,  for  he  was  au  fait  with  all  the  mysteries  of  his  pro- 
fession. It  was  sometimes  amusing  to  witness  his  paroxysms  of 
anger  with  his  attendants,  and  his  futile  efforts  to  express  himself  in 
the  native  vernacular.  The  Hawaiian  is  a  dialect  not  so  copious 
that  its  words  may  be  pronounced  without  regard  to  accent  or  em- 
phasis ;  of  all  nations,  the  French,  like  Cockneys,  are  least  qual- 
ified to  give  it  expression,  and  their  ludicrous  efforts  sometimes  de- 
generate into  absolute  absurdities.  In  the  attempt  of  the  latter  to 
say  haole,  (foreigner,)  we  have  'aole,  (no) ;  and  by  rejecting  the  as- 
pirate in  the  word  ha?ia,  (labor),  we  have  the  signification  of  the  pres- 
ent participle  of  a  verb.  I  can  imagine  that  in  the  attempt  of  the 
latter  to  repeat  a  correspondingly  arranged  line  of  poetry  in 
Hawaiian,  we  should  have  something  as  ludicrous  as, 

"  The  'orn  of  the  'unter  is  'card  on  the  'ill." 

But  Monsieur  was  above  paying  attention  to  all  these  little  minu- 
tiae, and  without  regard  to  punctuation  or  syntax,  he  would  pour  forth 
a  heterogeneous  mixture  of  French,  English,  and  Hawaiian  to  one 
of  his  boys,  who,  with  mouth  agap  and  projecting  eyeballs,  was  only 
paying  attention  to  the  frantic  gestures  by  which  to  obtain  a  clue  to 
his  master's  wishes.  Sometimes  I  have  seen  them,  after  withdraw- 
ing to  a  safe  distance,  shrug  up  their  shoulders  and  give  utterance 
to  their  favorite  expression,  a-ole  paha,  (no  you  don't.)  But  with  all 
his  foibles  and  eccentricities,  he  was  a  good  host,  and  his  guests  will 
remember  with  pleasure  his  attentions. 

At  this  time  I  had  a  roving  commission,  and  abundant  leisure  to 
perfect  myself  in  a  course  of  Hawaiian,  a  taste  the  natives  are 
always  pleased  to  indulge.  For  the  convenience  of  the  reader,  who 


Architecture — Household  Arrangements.  121 

may  not  have  one  at  hand,  I  will  give  a  hasty  description  of  their 
houses,  which  we  may  possibly  have  to  frequent  during  future  rambles. 
Having  selected  a  suitable  locality,  a  number  of  strong  posts  are 
driven  into  the  earth  in  parallel  rows,  leaving  an  area  for  the  interior, 
in  accordance  with  the  taste  of  the  proprietor.  The  portions  remain- 
ing above  ground  vary  in  height  from  three  to  seven  or  eight  feet, 
with  a  distance  of  three  or  four  feet  between  each  other  ;  upon  them 
are  laid  rafters,  forming  generally  an  acute,  or  at  least  a  right  angle 
at  the  ridge.  Outside  of  both  rafters  and  posts,  ahos  (wattles)  are 
fastened  with  sennit,  made  from  the  fibre  of  the  cocoanut-husk,  at 
short  distances  from  each  other,  giving  the  uncovered  frame  a  sort 
of  lattice-work  appearance.  It  is  then  ready  for  thatching,  and  for 
this  purpose  the  coarse  grass  called  pili  is  used,  which  is  so  laid  on 
as  to  render  them  water  and  weather  proof.  When  more  than  or- 
dinary pains  are  taken  with  them,  the  natives  have  a  fashion  of 
braiding  the  grass  on  the  outside,  which  gives  them  a  somewhat 
tasteful  appearance  ;  however,  an  ordinary  grass-house  that  has 
seen  service,  if  viewed  at  a  short  distance,  looks  much  like  a 
weather-beaten  haystack.  But  appearances  are  often  deceptive, 
and  the  interior  of  these  primitive  domicils  is  more  inviting  than 
their  exterior  would  lead  one  to  suppose.  They  have  usually  a  good 
door  with  hinges,  and  square  apertures  at  the  sides  designed  for 
windows,  and  these  have  shutters.  The  floor  is  strewed  with  dry 
grass,  and  covered  with  mats  made  of  the  lauhala,  which  are  either 
few  or  numerous,  coarse  or  fine,  according  to  the  taste  or  wealth  of 
the  owner.  Partitions  are  formed  by  curtains,  usually  of  some  gaudy 
material ;  and  for  beds,  if  unprovided  with  bedsteads,  they  have  mats 
of  a  fine  quality;  for  the  manufacture  o'f  these,  the  leewardmost 
island,  Nihau,  is  famous.  Their  pillows  are  stuffed  with  pulu,  a  sub- 
stance resembling  the  down  of  a  thistle.  Almost  every  house  can 
boast  of  a  few  chairs  or  table  manufactured  from  koa  wood,  the  ma- 
hogany of  the  Pacific,  besides  chests  to  contain  their' apparel.  One 
corner  is  usually  devoted  to  calabashes  and  feasting  arrangements, 
also  agricultural  implements,  if  the  proprietor  be  a  laborer.  During 
the  night  a  tin  lamp  is  suspended  from  the  centre  pole,  affording 
them  sufficient  light  to  sleep  by,  which  they  always  require,  having 
an  invincible  dread  of  akuas,  (ghosts.) 


122  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

After  remaining  in  Honolulu  nearly  two  weeks,  I  was  fortunate  in 
making  the  acquaintance  of  Mr.  Linton  L.  Torbert.  a  planter  of 
East  Maui.  At  his  invitation  I  consented  to  accompany  him  to  his 
plantation  at  Ulupalakua,  (ripe  breadfruit  of  the  gods,)  he  having 
chartered  the  "  Kammey"  to  call  there  on  her  way  to  Hawaii.  On 
the  day  appointed  we  embarked,  but  if  the  confusion  I  had  before 
witnessed  at  Lahaina  was  noticeable,  it  was  now  increased  tenfold. 
There  were  several  members  of  the  Mission,  with  their  families, 
whose  stations  were  among  the  windward  isla.nds ;  they  were 
encumbered  by  servants,  who  in  turn  were  surrounded  by  friends 
come  to  take  leave.  It  was  past  four  o'clock,  the  hour  for  departure, 
yet  there  was  no  movement  on  the  part  of  those  natives  who  resided 
ashore  towards  leaving  the  deck.  There  were  wailings  and  fre- 
quent contact  of  noses,  and  the  word  aloha  predominated  above 
every  other.  But  this  delay  was  finally  obviated  by  the  kindness  of 
a  gentleman,  formerly  of  the  Mission,  who  with  a  slender  ratan,  a 
rod  of  love,  laid  it  gently  across  the  shoulders  of  both  male  and  fe- 
male, and  the  aloha  was  speedily  changed  to  auwe  !  (oh  dear  !)  while 
a  simultaneous  rush  for  the  canoes  was  the  result  of  its  application. 

Without  incident  worth  noticing,  we  reached  Lahaina  the  follow- 
ing day,  and  having  discharged  passengers  and  cargo  for  that  place, 
we  continued  on  towards  Hounaula,  (red  earth,)  the  name  of  Mr. 
Torbert's  landing.  When  off  the  deep  gorges  of  Olualu  and  Ukame- 
hame,  we  encountered  one  of  those  momokus,  or  whirlwinds,  which 
sometimes  sweep  down  from  the  mountains  with  fearful  violence. 
In  an  instant  our  jib  was  fluttering  from  the  stay  in  ribbons.  With 
but  little  sea-way,  the  water  was  lifted  and  whirled  over  the  deck 
fore  and  aft,  and  before  we  could  let  go  halliards,  the  schooner  was 
ploughing  her  way  along,  almost  bulwarks  under,  to  the  consterna- 
tion of  our  lady  passengers.  We  soon  passed  the  last  projecting 
point  of  West  Maui,  and  opened  the  broad  bay  of  Malia,  where  we 
had  a  good  view  of  the  low  isthmus,  uniting  as  it  were  the  two 
islands ;  also  the  lofty  summit  of  East  Maui,  Haleakala,  (house  of 
the  sun,)  looming  darkly  above  the  clouds  to  an  elevation  of  10,000 
feet  above  the  sea.  Mr.  Torbert  had  left  us  at  Lahaina,  and  ridden 
over  the  mountain  on  horseback,  so  that  we  had  no  other  pilot  than 
a  native  woman,  a  wife  of  "one  of  his  foreign  employees.  To  a  per- 


A  "  Rod  of  Love" — New  Companions.  123 

son  unacquainted  with  the  localities,  it  would  be  difficult  to  find  the 
precise  anchorage,  for  there  is  a  uniformity  in  the  appearance  of  the 
shore  that  to  an  inexperienced  eye  hardly  offers  a  landmark.  Cap- 
tain Akoni  kept  the  woman  constantly  on  the  look-out,  and  by  the 
lights  on  shore  she  managed  to  discover  the  spot,  and  letting  go 
our  anchor,  we  soon  had  the  satisfaction  of  hearing  juvenile  voices 
laughing  and  shouting  from  the  rocks. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

"RIPE    BREADFRUIT    OF     THE    GODS." 

MR.  TORBERT  lost  no  time  in  coming  alongside  in  a  canoe,  and 
with  the  native  woman,  Mrs.  Sinclair,  we  paddled  ashore.  Here  I 
found  two  persons  who  had  long  been  engaged  in  his  service,  and 
to  whom  we  shall  have  occasion  to  make  future  reference  They 
had  just  returned  from  a  hunting  excursion,  and  the  result  of  their 
sporting  was  a  few  braces  of  wild  pigeons.  One  of  them,  the  hus- 
band of  our  pilot,  whom  we  called  "  Long  Jim,"  was  a  tall  down- 
easter  ;  the  other  answered  to  the  name  Steve,  who  was  likewise  an 
American,  and  savored  something  of  the  backwoodsman,  for  he  was 
expert  with  the  axe.  They  were  both  clever  souls.  Steve  bustled 
about  for  a  supper,  and,  with  the  assistance  of  a  native,  soon  re- 
turned with  a  quantity  of  fish  wrapped  up  in  leaves,  and  smoking 
hot  from  the  oven,  besides  a  large  calabash  of  poi.  We  all  sat  down 
upon  the  mats  to  enjoy  a  hearty  repast,  and  a  person  must  be  a  Stoic 
to  avoid  augmenting  his  acquaintance  on  such  an  occasion.  Having 
supped,  in  company  with  the  two,  I  strolled  along  the  beach,  while 
they  entertained  me  with  all  the  little  items  of  gossip  and  scandal 
about  Ulupalakua.  But  this  was  done  for  talk's  sake  and  to  become 
more  intimate  ;  a  more  harmonious  little  community  never  jogged 
along  among  the  green  hills  of  Maui. 

In  the  morning  I  found  the  premises  to  consist  of  a  good-sized 
yard,  containing  a  large  stone  storehouse,  and  two  or  three  thatch 


124  Reef-Ravings  in  the  South  Seas. 

arrangements  of  smaller  dimensions.  There  was  also  a  boat-shed ; 
and  chain  cables,  spars,  old  rigging,  cannon-balls,  &c.,  recalled  to 
mind  the  ship-yard  of  "  Richard  Quilp,  Esq."  At  an  early  hour  the 
natives  began  to  assemble,  and  the  work  of  discharging  commenced. 
The  merchandise  was  conveyed  in  boats  as  near  to  the  shore  as 
practicable,  when  it  was  carried  by  islanders,  who  stood  ready  to  re- 
ceive it,  to  the  beach  above  high-water  mark.  During  the  morning 
a  canoe  filled  with  girls  made  its  appearance  from  behind  a  project- 
ing point,  who  by  their  laughing  and  singing  seemed  to  court  atten- 
tion. Presently  the  outrigger  flew  high  in  the  air,  and  they  were 
swimming  around  the  canoe,  which  had  been  purposely  capsized. 
After  a  brief  interval  it  was  righted,  and  one  of  the  youngest  assisted 
into  it,  to  bail  out.  One  by  one  they  emerged  from  the  sea  and  re- 
sumed their  seats,  wringing  the  brine  from  their  dark  tresses,  and 
laughing  merrily  as  ever. 

About  nine  o'clock,  bullock  teams  with  heavy  carts,  which  we  had 
seen  descending  the  mountain,  arrived,  driven  by  native  boys,  to 
convey  the  merchandise  to  the  plantation.  The  only  portion  of  this 
that  was  visible  were  a  few  bright  cane-fields,  which  the  inequali- 
ties of  the  mountain-side  permitted  to  be  seen.  The  road,  a  good 
one,  could  be  traced  at  intervals  until  it  ascended  the  last  hill,  a  dis- 
tance of  three  miles.  The  carts  being  ladened,  we  set  out  at  a  slow 
pace,  for  the  road  was  a  continued  ascent,  and  before  the  oxen  had 
finished  their  journey  they  were  panting  with  heat  and  fatigue. 
There  is  hardly  tree  or  shrub  by  the  wayside  to  relieve  the  lonely 
aspect,  except  frequently  large  clusters  of  the  cactus  rising  above  the 
coarse  grass.  I  have  always  thought  the  road  to  Ulupalakua — and  I 
have  travelled  it  often — as  wearisome  as  that  of  the  Hill  of  Science ; 
if  the  hospitable  proprietor  would  only  establish  a  sort  of  half-way 
house  for  the  benefit  of  visitors,  he  would  be  looked  upon  as  a  public 
benefactor. 

Having  ascended  about  halfway,  one  of  the  teams,  in  a  fit  of  des- 
peration, broke  away  from  the  road,  dragging  the  cart  alarmingly 
near  the  edge  of  a  dry  water-course,  and  I  anticipated  nothing 
less  than  a  general  stampede.  Fortunately,  the  boys  succeeded  in 
quieting  them,  and  I  had  now  a  lesson  to  learn  regarding  the  propen- 
sities of  cattle  that  had  once  roamed  wild  among  their  native  hills. 


Experiences  among  the  Teamsters.  125 

By  some  accident  the  chain  that  connects  the  cart  with  the  yoke  had 
become  wound  around  the  tongue,  and  the  boys  were  making  a  great 
ado  among  themselves  as  to  who  should  clear  it.  Impatient  at  the 
delay,  I  stepped  up  to  the  nearest  bullock,  with  a  loud  "  stand-over" 
that  was  meant  to  intimidate,  and  laid  my  hand  upon  the  chain.  At 
the  present  day  I  have  a  confused  recollection  of  describing  sundry 
gyrations  in  the  air,  until  brought  to  a  sense  of  consciousness  by  fa- 
miliar contact  with  the  earth.  This  was  the  first  and  last  time  that 
I  interfered  with  cattle  in  the  Pacific.  As  hill  after  hill  rose  with 
its  steep  ascent  before  us,  my  sympathy  for  the  panting  beasts  grad- 
ually relapsed  into  considerations  of  personal  comfort.  To  have 
mounted  one  of  the  carts  which  they  seemed  hardly  able  to  drag  after 
them,  would  have  been  worse  than  walking,  and  our  only  resource 
was  to  halt  frequently.  By  noon  we  had  still  the  interminable  suc- 
cession of  hills ;  the  last  was  the  climax  of  perpendicularity,  and 
after  reaching  its  summit  we  all  sat  down  to  rest,  for  the  village 
of  Ulupalakua  was  before  us. 

A  conspicuous  object  was  the  tall  white  chimney  of  the  boiling- 
house,  rolling  out  volumes  of  black  smoke  ;  and  around  this  were 
grouped  the  mills,  rind  and  drying-houses.  The  road  leading  to  the 
open  space  in  the  centre  was  lined  on  either  side  with  the  grass- 
houses  of  native  laborers.  Other  domicils  were  also  scattered  about 
in  different  parts  of  the  plantation,  their  cultivations  lending  a  pleasing 
effect  to  the  landscape.  On  either  side  were  bright  fields  of  cane 
in  various  stages  of  growth  ;  and  in  their  appropriate  places,  large 
groves  of  bananas  and  extensive  fields  of  taro  were  waving  in  the 
breeze.  Roads  intersected  each  other,  and  along  some  of  them 
carts  were  conveying  their  juicy  loads  to  the  mills.  Around  these 
were  assembled  old  and  young,  chiefly  females,  who  were  feeding 
them,  while  others  carried  the  crushed  rind  to  dry.  The  mills  con- 
sisted simply  of  upright  iron  rollers  with  the  requisite  machinery, 
which  was  worked  by  oxen,  and  the  expressed  juice  was  conveyed  by 
subterranean  channels  to  vats  in  the  boiling-house.  All  seemed 
animated  and  happy.  The  boys  sang  as  they  drove  their  teams ; 
the  females  gossipped  and  joked  while  performing  their  duties.  In-* 
dependent  of  these  there  were  carpenter,  blacksmith,  tinsmith, 
cooper,  &c.,  pursuing  their  vocations.  The  proprietor  and  director 


126  Reef -Roving  s  in  the  South  Seas. 

of  this  industrious  community,  sorrounded  by  the  smiling  evidences 
of  prosperity,  possessed  a  more  solid  basis  for  enjoyment  than  they 
who  hoard  wealth  amid  the  dens  of  a  city.  The  house  of  Mr.  Tor- 
bert,  though  thatch,  was  a  large  and  substantial  building,  having 
porches  in  front  and  rear.  The  principal  ornament  of  the  interior  was 
a  well-selected  library  ;  the  most  comfortable  appendages  were  the 
broad  table,  suggestive  of  things  that  might  happen,  and  the  spacious 
beds.  The  door  of  one  of  the  small  rooms  in  the  rear  was  open, 
and  from  the  rafters  were  suspended  countless  bunches  of  bananas  in 
every  stage  of  perfection.  The  cook-house  adjoining,  was  almost 
surrounded  by  banana-trees. 

It  is  unknown  to  what  circumstance  this  district  is  indebted  for  its 
name — "  Ripe-breadfruit-of-the-Gods" — for  tradition  makes  no  men- 
tion of  its  abounding  with  the  name-giving  tree.  At  the  present 
day  the  surface  of  the  soil  is  hardly  diversified  by  tree  or  shrub, 
unless  a  short  distance  farther  up,  where  it  is  clothed  with  a  heavy 
and  almost  impenetrable  growth  of  forest.  At  an  elevation  of  more 
than  three  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  it  possesses  a  climate  cool 
and  invigorating  ;  and  nothing  save  actual  convalescence  can  be 
more  agreeable  to  invalids  who  have  been  languishing  in  the  heated 
atmosphere  of  the  lowlands,  than  to  ascend  to  this  temperate  zone  and 
enjoy  the  breeze,  cool  and  fresh  from  the  mountains.  During  the 
night  heavy  dews  fall,  and  the  air  is  sometimes  so  chilly  that  an 
additional  blanket  is  required.  Its  commanding  prospect  is  not  the 
least  of  its  attractions  ;  the  broad  ocean,  the  barren  island  of  Kahu- 
lawe,  with  the  rocky  islet  of  Molokini  in  mid-channel,  the  rugged 
mountain  of  Lanai  and  a  portion  of  Molokai,  are  all  beheld  at 
a  glance.  In  clear  weather  the  shipping  in  the  roadstead  of  La- 
haina,  a  distance  of  thirty  miles,  is  discernible  ;  and  there  is  also  a 
view  of  Malia  Bay  and  the  barren  mountains  of  West  Maui.  Look- 
ing seaward,  the  mountain-side  is  diversified  by  hill,  plain,  and  val- 
ley, where  sheep  and  cattle  are  grazing  ;  and  on  the  left  there  is  a 
broad  tract  as  black  as  Erebus,  where,  in  ages  beyond  tradition,  the 
lava  has  made  its  way  to  the  sea.  With  a  telescope  you  may  here 
and  there  detect  a  solitary  hut ;  and  occasionally  a  faint  cloud  of 
smoke  shows  where  the  native  is  preparing  the  land  for  cultivation. 
Small  hamlets  are  scattered  along  the  shore,  and  near  the  landing, 


A  Model  Plantation.  127 

a  prominent  feature  of  the  landscapeas  an  extinct  crater  known  as 
Miller's  Hill,  its  rugged  cliffs  washed  by  the  waves. 

The  soil  of  this  district  is  exceedingly  prolific  ;  though  the  period 
for  the  ripening  of  sugar-cane  is  necessarily  of  greater  duration 
than  would  be  required  in  the  lowlands,  this  deficiency,  if  such  it 
can  be  called,  is  amply  compensated  for  by  the  superiority  of  its 
quality.  I  have  surveyed*  every  field,  yet  do  not  recollect  their 
aggregate  area  ;  but  there  are  several  hundred  acres  under  culti- 
vation, and  in  planting,  such  reference  is  had  to  convenience  that 
there  is  always  a  portion  fit  for  cutting  at  any  season  of  the  year. 
In  a  paper  recently  read  by  Mr.  Torbert,  before  the  Hawaiian  Agri- 
cultural Association  at  Honolulu,  it  is  stated  that  sugar-cane  was 
first  noticed  among  these  islands  at  Ulupalakua  ;  whether  this  cir- 
cumstance is  to  be  attributed  to  accident  or  to  its  partiality  for  the 
soil,  it  is  certain  that  the  sugar  here  manufactured  is  of  superior 
quality.  This,  however,  is  in  some  degree  owing  to  the  attention 
bestowed  upon  its  preparation ;  for,  unlike  the  system  pursued  by 
many  plantations  on  these  islands,  the  whole  process  is  conducted 
upon  principles  strictly  scientific.  I  believe,  however,  it  has  a  for- 
midable rival  on  the  leeward  Island  of  Kauai,  where  are  also  exten- 
sive cultivations  of  coffee  ;  but  I  am  certain  of  having  seen  the 
prize  medal  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Torbert. 

The  system  pursued  in  conducting  the  plantation  is  worthy  of  re- 
mark. The  attention  paid  to  morality  and  sobriety  has,  in  a  great 
degree,  been  conducive  to  its  prosperity.  With  reference  to  occu- 
pation, there  are  no  harrowing  distinctions  drawn  between  the  for- 
eigners engaged  in  his  service.  The  visitor  at  Ulupalakua,  be  he 
high  or  low,  rich  or  poor,  sits  at  the  same  table  with  the  most  humble 
artisan.  There  are  some  who  have  formed  matrimonial  alliances 
with  the  native  females  ;  and  to  these  a  sufficient  quantity  of  land 
has  been  allotted,  also  the  necessary  time  for  its  cultivation.  Atten- 
tion has  been  paid  to  the  construction  of  suitable  houses  for  the 
natives  ;  during  a  severe  kbna  (southwest  tempest)  that  swept  with 
violence  over  the  land,  I  have  seen  Mr.  Torbert  inspecting  their  con- 
dition, and  from  such  as  were  dilapidated  removing  their  inmates  to 
others  more  commodious,  and  providing  those  who  needed  them  with 
warm  and  comfortable  garments  from  his  own  house.  The  condi- 


128  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

tion  of  the  natives  in  his  employ  is  in  many  respects  superior  to 
that  of  those  who  draw  a  precarious  subsistence  by  occasionally  cul- 
tivating and  fishing  on  their  own  account.  Their  pay  is  sufficient 
to  provide  for  their  necessary  wants,  and  the  food  served  out  is  good 
and  abundant.  They  are  well  clothed,  and  contented  and  happy. 

At  an  early  hour  the  horn  sounds,  and  the  laborers  assemble,  each 
knowing  his  respective  duty.  In  due  time  it  again  recalls  them 
to  their  morning  meal,  after  which  they  return  to  their  occupations, 
and  at  night  they  come  flocking  in  with  their  implements  to  the  store- 
house, where  those  permanently  engaged  receive  their  rations,  and 
the  day-laborers  their  pay,  usually  a  paper  certificate  redeemable  in 
merchandise  on  demand.  During  the  "  cutting  season,"  large  num- 
bers, both  male  and  female,  assemble  from  Kaupo  and  the  districts  ad- 
joining. The  scene  then  is  one  of  increased  industry  and  animation. 

Such  was  its  condition  during  my  early  visits  to  Ulupalakua ; 
but  whether  subsequent  events  have  rendered  it  necessary  for  the 
proprietor,  like  those  of  other  plantations,  to  resort  to  the  labor  of 
Chinese  coolies,  who  as  an  experiment  were  imported  in  1851,  I 
cannot  say ;  but  in  any  event,  shall  hope  that  the  energy  and  perse- 
verance which  have  characterized  his  efforts  may  have  success  for 
their  ultimate  reward. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

PLANTATION     LIFE. 

To  have  seen  us  jogging  along  together  in  unison,  one  would 
suppose  us  to  be  a  model  community  of  Socialists  who  had  crept 
up  into  our  eyrie,  where  we  could  observe  without  being  ob- 
served. Our  elucidations  of  humanity  were  drawn  from  various 
sources ;  though  composed  of  divers  elements,  the  result  of  habit 
and  association,  our  enjoyments  were  in  common,  and  a  mind 
aspiring  to  superiority  in  its  intercourse  with  those  around 
it,  would  have  been  an  object  of  commiseration  in  our  home 


Connubial  Felicity  in  Polynesia.       -  129 

among  the  mountains.  From  the  proprietor  down,  we  had  all  seen 
service  in  whalers ;  and  the  hand  that  swung  the  sledge  or  shoved 
the  plane,  could  with  equal  facility  handle  an  oar  or  trim  a  sail. 
After  the  toils  of  the  day  were  over,  we  would  assemble  beneath  the 
porch  in  the  cool  evening,  and  comparing  notes,  revive  old  reminis- 
cences. 

There  was  one  of  our  number,  the  old  gray-headed  cooper  of 
Nantucket,  (Heaven  rest  his  soul !  for  he  has  gone  to  render  a  long 
account  of  deeds  done  in  the  body,)  whose  domestic  troubles  afforded 
unsympathizing  hearts  a  continued  source  of  diversion.  He  had 
united  his  destinies  for  weal  or  woe  with  those  of  a  Kaupo  girl 
young  enough  to  be  his  grand-daughter,  and  who,  as  the  novelty  of 
matrimony  wore  away,  was  uncharitable  enough  to  cast  reflections 
upon  his  venerable  locks,  and  otherwise  animadvert  upon  his  rheu- 
matic infirmities.  But  all  this  was  meekly  borne  by  the  object  of  her 
acrimony ;  and  it  was  only  when  she  would  actually  desert  him,  to 
seek  obscurity  among  her  native  hills,  that  his  grief  found  utterance 
in  tears  and  lamentations.  To  have  solicited  either  work  or  favor 
from  him  at  these  periods  of  desertion  would  be  requiring  an  impos- 
sibility ;  for,  wringing  his  hands  and  forgetting  his  infirmities,  he 
walked  frantically  up  and  down,  recounting  his  woes  to  all  he  met, 
at  the  same  time  an  object  of  mirth  and  pity.  There  was  a  person 
residing  on  the  plantation  who  had  seen  as  many  years  as  the 
cooper,  and  between  these  two  old  men  existed  the  bitterest  ani- 
mosity. This  was  the  only  instance  of  mutual  ill-will  observable 
among  us,  but  it  was  so  perfectly  harmless  in  its  results  that  it  gave 
to  the  monotony  of  daily  routine  the  spice  of  variety.  On  the  occa- 
sions alluded  to,  the  cooper's  arch-enemy  would  wag  his  head  with, 
a  satisfied  look,  and  with  a  shade  of  sarcasm  remark,  "Kupanaha !' 
(astonishing !)  the  cooper 's  got  his  tantrims  ag'in,  fal  de  dol  diddle- 
dol  dido !"  and  whenever  they  met,  the  wrinkled  features  of  the< 
one,  as  far  as  was  possible,  expressed  exultation,  while  the  eyes  of 
the  other  shot  cannon-balls. 

An  express  would  be  forthwith  dispatched  to  the  beach,  and  in 
due  season  a  couple  of  kaikos  (constables)  would  make  their  appear- 
ance with  their  insignia  of  office — caps  with  red  bands  and  formi- 
dable clubs.  Of  course  a  resort  to  their  services  drew  largely  upon  the 

9 


130  *     Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

cooper's  exchequer,  and  if  empty,  as  was  usually  the  case,  he  had 
recourse  to  a  loan,  as  an  affectionate  husband  is  in  duty  bound  to  do, 
after  which  the  minions  of  the  law  would  take  their  departure  over 
the  mountains  to  bring  back  the  recluse.  To  do  this  required 
a  day  or  two,  and  I  have  known  three  days  to  elapse  before 
she  was  returned  to  the  desolate  homestead.  With  a  mixture  of 
sulkiness  and  shame,  she  would  enter  the  house,  while  the  cooper 
followed  with  humility,  arid  closed  the  door.  The  bonds  of  matri- 
mony are  sacred,  and  it  would  have  been  a  bold  eye  to  peep  through 
an  aperture  of  the  thatch  and  witness  the  arguments  resorted  to 
on  that  occasion.  With  pardonable  curiosity,  we  could  listen  at  a 
respectful  distance,  and  no  one  was  more  delighted  with  the  scene 
that  was  to  follow  than  our  old  friend,  who  would  interpret  the  na- 
tive portion  of  the  colloquy  ;  but  the  cooper's  English  was  generally 
too  expressive  to  require  comment  or  explanation.  Sometimes  the 
interview  commenced  with  an  ominous  silence  that  would  con- 
tinue for  several  minutes  ;  then  a  few  incoherent  words  in  the  native 
tongue,  in  a  tone  of  reproach,  succeeded,  without  eliciting  a  re- 
ply. Next,  expostulations  in  mingled  native  and  English  would  be 
heard  in  a  louder  voice,  the  more  amusing  to  us,  for,  save  a  word  or 
two,  neither  of  them  understood  the  language  of  the  other.  After 
this  had  been  indulged  in  a  reasonable  length  of  time  without  a  word 
on  her  part,  I  was  at  first  thrown  into  consternation  by  repeated 
smacking  sounds,  very  like  the  contact  of  a  hand  with  an  inviting  por- 
tion of  flesh,  (usually  resorted  to  in  instances  of  refractory  children  ;) 
when  the  silence  was  at  once  broken  by  a  loud  auwc  !  (oh  dear!)  and 
then  were  heard  the  unfeminine  expressions  of  elemakule !  (old 
man  !)  puaa  !  (pig!)  nihoole  !  (toothless  !)  and  a  copious  vocabulary  of 
Hawaiian  reproaches.  Poor  cooper  !  He  literally  "  had  as  much 
trouble  as  a  married  man,"  and  they  could  only  compromise  their 
difficulties  by  his  promising  to  purchase  a  new  dress,  or  sundry  ar- 
ticles of  finery  gratifying  to  her  savage  fancy. 

One  day,  the  very  picture  of  despair,  he  requested  me  to  step  down 
to  his  house  with  him  and  look  at  his  wife,  and  if  she  pleased  me,  he 
would  procure  a  divorce  and  sell  her  to  me  for  a  reasonable  compen- 
sation. The  district  of  Kaupo  is  famous  for  its  beauty,  and  madam 
was  a  fair  sample,  for  she  was  delicately  formed,  without  that  sen- 


Tempting  Inducements  to  Marry.  131 

sual  expression  peculiar  to  many  of  the  Hawaiians.  From  the  cor- 
diality of  my  reception,  I  have  not  the  slightest  doubt  but  that  she 
fully  concurred  in  her  husband's  wishes,  and  to  avoid  incurring  any 
suspicions  of  insincerity,  I  declined  his  offer,  by  saying  that  I  was 
so  erratic  in  my  movements  that  I  could  not  make  up  my  mind  to 
assume  the  responsibilities  of  matrimony  ;  also,  that  the  necessary 
outfit  would  be  too  expensive. 

"  Don't  mention  it,"  said  the  cooper  ;  "  here's  my  house  and  all  its 
furniture,  (consisting  of  a  chair,  table,  bedding,  three  calabashes,  and 
a  poi  board,)  and  a  large  field  of  taro,  (two-thirds  of  an  acre,)  that 
I'll  throw  in  gratis  to  give  you  a  start." 

I  begged  him  not  to  think  there  was  any  want  of  appreciation  of 
his  kindness  on  my  part,  and  finally  convinced  him  that,  situated 
as  I  then  was,  a  mere  visitor,  such  an  alliance  would  be  wholly  im- 
practicable. Their  union  having  never  been  prolific,  he  questioned 
me  as  to  the  propriety  of  adopting  a  child,  "  to  see  if  it  wouldn't 
kinder  get  her  wonted."  On  this  subject  I  told  him  he  was  the  more 
competent  to  judge,  and  wishing  that  he  might  never  have  a  recur- 
rence of  his  afflictions,  I  left  him. 

About  ten  days  after  my  arrival,  it  was  rumored  through  our 
little  village  that  there  was  to  be  a  wedding — a  double  wedding  the 
same  day — and  all  the  old  gossips  were  on  the  qui  vive,  for  the  bride- 
grooms were  foreigners.  They  were  both  widowers,  and  on  in- 
quiry I  learned  that  one  was  our  friend  Steve,  and  the  other  Jack 
Burns.  Both  resided  at  opposite  extremes  of  the  plantations,  and 
Jack  declared  he  had  lived  in  Kalihi  (garden)  long  enough  "without 
a  blossom."  It  has  been  said  that  "  the  course  of  true  love  never  runs 
smooth,"  and  such  was  the  case  in  this  instance,  for  up  hill  and  down 
dale  they  were  compelled  to  go  to  reach  Wailuku,  the  nearest  mis- 
sionary residence,  and  distant  nearly  twenty  miles.  I  did  not  see 
the  wedding  party,  which  started  away  at  an  early  hour,  but  about 
four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  sound  of  juvenile  voices  announced 
its  return,  and  all  eyes  were  directed  to  the  road  winding  down  the 
hill  from  the  Kula  district.  Here  was  seen  the  whole  party  troop- 
ing along,  some  on  horseback,  and  a  large  retinue  on  foot,  and  all 
making  an  ostentatious  display  ;  some  with  white  Panamas  decorated 
with  ribbons,  and  flashy  silks,  others  with  wreaths,  Turkey-red,  and 


132  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

white  muslin  robes.  The  old  superannuated  dog  Tiger  and  his 
younger  companion  immediately  ran  up  the  road  as  far  as  the  rind- 
house,  where  they  stationed  themselves,  and  whether  congratulatory 
or  not,  commenced  a  series  of  barkings,  which  continued  without  in- 
termission until  the  arrival  of  our  guests. 

"There  was  no  more  work  during  the  remainder  of  that  day,  and 
natives  and  foreigners  assembled  to  offer  their  congratulations.  Un- 
doubtedly there  were  many  present  who  would  have  been  glad  had 
a  wedding  happened  every  day,  for  preparations  for  a  feast  had  been 
going  forward.  In  passing  an  opinion  upon  the  relative  merits  of 
the  young  brides,  I  would  do  so  without  disparaging  the  taste  of 
either  Jack  or  Steve,  for  marriages  here,  as  is  frequently  the  case  at 
home,  are  more  matters  of  convenience  than  otherwise.  Steve  had 
married  the  sister  of  his  deceased  wife,  who  had  always  resided  in 
his  family  ;  but  despite  her  finery,  the  nasal  organ  was  decidedly 
too  broad  to  favor  any  pretensions  to  beauty.  I  believe,  however, 
she  has  proved  a  serviceable  helpmate,  and  am  certain  that  their 
union  is  in  a  fair  way  of  being  blessed  with  a  numerous  progeny. 
Mrs.  Burns  had  a  lighter  complexion,  and  was  in  every  respect  more 
attractive  than  her  companion,  but  her  happiness  was  brief.  Like 
many  an  old  acquaintance,  she  has  bidden  farewell  forever  to  the 
bright  scenes  of  Ulupalakua. 

Torbert  went  out,  gun  in  hand,  and  shot  a  large  hog ;  two  of  the 
boys  ran  up,  and  seizing  it  by  the  ears,  called  out,  after  a  momentary 
examination,  Ua  make  !  (he's  dead !)  upon  which  Keane  Lili,  our 
quartermaster,  approached  with  a  large  blood-letting  instrument.  The 
hog  was  speedily  dressed  and  roasting  under  ground.  A  short  time 
after  sunset  he  presented  a  ghastly  appearance,  when  his  proportions, 
undisturbed,  were  carried  into  the  rear  porch  on  a  wooden  trencher. 
There  were  numerous  hillocks  of  roasted  taro  and  sweet  potatoes, 
besides  poi  enough  to  feast  all  the  natives  of  East  Maui.  The 
females  preferred  sitting  upon  the  mats  and  supping  a  la  Turque;  but 
the  foreigners,  and  there  was  a  goodly  number  of  us,  monopolized 
the  table,  which  was  groaning  beneath  its  feast  of  fat  things.  In  ad- 
dition to  the  substantial  fare  with  which  we  were  always  provided, 
there  were  sundry  approximations  to  pastry,  (we  had  no  thorough- 
bred cook,)  and  oysters  that  had  vegetated  in  the  beds  of  the  At- 


A  Double  Wedding—The  Fine  Arts.  133 

lantic,  together  with  a  surfeit  of  fruit,  and  what  was  better  than  all, 
we  were  entertained  with  the  dry  jokes  of  our  host,  burnished  up  for 
the  occasion. 

It  has  been  the  policy  of  Mr.  Torbert  to  "  marry  off"  those  en- 
gaged in  his  service,  whether  native  or  foreigner,  as  fast  as  pos- 
sible, and  in  some  instances  the  plan  is  a  good  one.  To  a  for- 
eigner, it  is  often  attended  with  inconvenience  ;  for,  in  marrying  one 
of  its  members,  the  bridegroom  usually  has  the  entire  family  "  shoul- 
dered on  to  him,"  and  frequently  relatives  of  questionable  affinity. 
Recently,  Mr.  Tjorbert  has  been  empowered  by  the  authorities  to 
marry  upon  his  plantation,  and  with  natives  the  affair  is  conducted 
with  little  ceremony.  A  man  and  woman  conceive  they  were 
made  for  each  other,  make  application,  and  if  no  obstacle  exists 
they  are  forthwith  united  in  the  store,  which  is  filled  with  spec- 
tators. 

Mr.  Torbert's  was  a  versatile  talent.  Though  possessing  a  taste 
for  music  and  the  fine  arts,  he  was  modest  of  his  accomplishments  as 
an  amateur.  A  year  or  two  prior  to  my  arrival,  he  had  stumbled 
upon  a  German  musical-instrument  maker  in  Honolulu  ;  a  bargain 
was  struck,  and  the  artist  carried  off  to  Ulupalakua,  where,  after 
breathing  the  pure  atmosphere  of  the  mountains  for  a  few  days, 
he  was  installed  in  the  workshop,  and  provided  with  materials  for 
making  a  seraphine.  The  instrument  was  completed,  and  in  the  still 
evening  the' natives  would  gather  around  to  listen  to  the  strange  har- 
mony that  stole  softly  over  the  hills  and  awoke  the  woodland  soli- 
tudes. But  an  El  Dorado  was  discovered  on  the  adjoining  coast, 
and  all  eyes  were  turned  towards  Maui  for  a  garden.  The  seraphine 
was  ignominiously  consigned  to  obscurity,  where,  in  a  dilapidated 
grass-house,  encumbered  by  rickety  furniture  and  lumber,  it  was 
speedily  covered  with  cobwebs.  The  fingers  that  glided  over  the 
ivory  keys  now  drafted  a  vessel,  and  sharp  axes  in  the  hands  of 
Yankee  pioneers  decimated  the  forest  trunks  that  for  ages  had 
flourished  undisturbed.  A  schooner  was  built,  launched,  and 
freighted  on  the  owner's  account,  with  the  produce  of  his  plantation. 
She  was  called  the  "  Chance,"  and  consigned  to  the  chances  of 
waves  and  fortune.  It  was  during  the  period  of  her  absence  that  I 
arrived. 


134  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

I  found  a  guitar  in  Honolulu,  that  had  made  its  way  there  from  the 
Spanish  Main,  where  it  had  probably  charmed  brunettes  and  timed 
their  movements  in  the  equivocal  steps  of  the  samucueca.  This  I 
carried  with  me  to  the  plantation  ;  and  also  prevailed  upon  Torbert 
to  rescue  the  old  seraphine  from  oblivion.  But  the  responses  of 
the  finger-board  were  often  in  startling  discord,  and  it  was  only  from 
a  limited  number  of  chords  that  harmony  could  be  produced. 

One  evening  the  main  apartment  presented  an  interesting  scene. 
Around  the  broad  koa  table  were  seated  several  of  the  foreign  em- 
ployees, reading.  Though  isolated  among  the  mountains,  some  of 
them  were  deeply  absorbed  in  continental  politics,  while  others 
culled  statistics  from  American  documents,  and  a  visitor  was  poring 
over  an  illustrated  edition  of  Robinson  Crusoe.  Upon  the  table  be- 
fore them  were  a  bunch  of  ripe  bananas  and  a  plate  of  finely  pow- 
dered sugar.  The  doors  were  open,  and  in  the  back  porch  were 
three  or  four  little  girls,  attendants,  whose  duty  it  was  "  to  brush 
away  insects  ;"  and,  as  is  often  the  case  with  little  folks  when  they 
have  nothing  to  do,  making  a  great  deal  of  noise. 

A  couple  of  elderly  females  were  indulging  in  an  interminable 
gossip.  Torbert  and  I  were  alternately  talking  and  thrumming  upon 
the  instruments,  when  suddenly  a  prolonged  shriek  of  human  agony 
chimed  in  with  horrid  symphony  to  our  harmony.  The  effect  was 
electric  :  books  and  instruments  were  dropped,  and  when  Torbert, 
without  hat  or  coat,  started  off  in  the  direction  whence  the  sound 
came,  the  women,  with  distorted  features,  screamed,  "  Akua  /" 
(ghosts.) 

We  listened,  but  the  cry  was  not  repeated.  The  old  resident  in- 
formed us  that  it  was  probably  the  effect  of  fear  upon  some  native 
who  fancied  himself  the  victim  of  a  supernatural  visitation.  His 
conclusions  were  correct.  Upon  his  return,  Mr.  Torbert  informed 
his  anxious  audience  that,  far  down  amid  the  cane-fields,  he  had 
found  one  of  the  strongest  natives  in  his  service  panting  and  help- 
less, and  covered  with  a  profuse  perspiration.  In  the  dark,  he  had 
been  encountered  by  the  spirit  of  a  deceased  relative  that  had 
seized  him  by  the  throat  and  endeavored  to  strangle  him.  These 
spirits,  like  their  deities,  are  always  bugbears  to  terrify.  Between 
the  former  and  the  living  there  is  no  bond  of  spiritual  communion, 


A  Travelling  Party.  135 

while  the  latter  are  regarded  as  synonyms  of  pestilence  and-scourge. 
It  is  somewhat  remarkable  that  at  the  moment  the  man  screamed, 
the  cooper's  wife,  more  than  half  a  mile  distant,  responded  and  went 
into  convulsions.  The  "ghost-seer"  was  her  relative.  Almost 
palsied  with  fright,  the  old  cooper  tottered  up  to  the  house  for  assist- 
ance, and  we  in  turn  were  startled  by  the  apparition  of  his  livid 
countenance. 

Two  weeks  passed  rapidly  away,  when  surveying  duties  called 
Mr.  Torbert  abroad  ;  at  his  request  I  accompanied  him,  thus  bidding 
adieu  to  Ulupalakua  for  several  months.  Subsequent  adventures  here 
will  be  reserved  for  future  pages 


CHAPTER    X". 

HAWAIIAN     ROADS 

AT  an  early  hour  our  horses  and  knapsacks  were  prepared,  and 
in  company  with  a  gentleman  from  Honolulu,  we  commenced  ascend- 
ing the  Kula  road.  It  wound  through  cane  and  taro  fields,  and 
from  an  eminence  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  plantation,  with  its 
cultivated  portions  regularly  laid  out,  interspersed  with  houses  and 
banana  groves.  The  road  winds  to  the  left,  and,  with  occasional 
ascent  and  descent,  continues  through  the  district  of  Kula,  at  an 
elevation  of  more  than  4,000  feet  above  the  sea,  until  it  gradually 
descends  towards  Makawao.  It  was  a  mere  bridle-path  across  open 
fields  and  through  strips  of  forest  that  covered  the  face  of  the  moun- 
tain above  us,  where  it  was  encircled  by  a  belt  of  clouds.  The  trees 
of  the  lower  edge  were  low  and  scraggy,  but  often  affording  an  agree- 
able shade  ;  around  their  trunks  and  from  their  branches  were  para- 
sitic vines  en  wreathed  and  hanging  in  festoons.  But  few  houses 
were  passed ;  near  some  of  them  natives  were  clearing  the  land  for 
agricultural  purposes. 

We  reached  the  residence  of  Mr.  William  McLean  (since  de- 
ceased) at  noon.  Nearly  five  years  have  elapsed  since  I  visited 


136  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

Makawao,  and  although  my  recollections  of  it  are  not  very  distinct, 
I  thought  it  at  the  time  one  of  the  most  charming  spots  I  ever 
beheld.  A  vast  inclined  plane  was  diversified  by  forest  and  small 
copses  of  woodland,  together  with  deep  valleys  and  broad  cultivations 
of  sugar-cane.  There  were  good  roads  ;  and  the  number  of  houses, 
both  native  and  foreign,  evidenced  a  larger  population  than  those 
of  the  district  through  which  we  had  just  passed.  The  residence 
of  Mr.  McLean  was  situated  in  a  garden  perfumed  by  the  mingled 
odors  of  rose  and  geranium,  and  was  also  shaded  by  the  wide-spread- 
ing branches  of  the  majestic  koa.  Among  the  fruit-trees  I  noticed  the 
peach  ;  but  a  lower  temperature  is  requisite  for  it  to  attain  perfection. 

A  week  of  delightful  recreation  had.  been  passed  at  Makawao, 
when  we  mounted  our  horses  at  an  early  hour  and  set  out  for  Lahaina 
by  the  road  running  parallel  with  the  sea-shore.  From  Kalepolepo, 
on  the  south  side  of  the  isthmus,  around  by  the  way  of  Waikapu  and 
Wailuku  to  Makawao,  will  be  found  the  best  road  in  the  whole  group, 
for  the  level  nature  of  the  land  favors  its  construction.  Along  the 
shore  on  the  north,  a  better  could  hardly  be  expected,  and  with  a 
few  slight  improvements,  it  would  be  admirably  adapted  for  a  car- 
riage-road. The  few  houses  seen  by  the  way  were  principally  fisher- 
men's huts,  but  at  Kahuluwe  there  was  quite  a  hamlet,  with  several 
storehouses,  and  though  possessing  no  available  harbor  for  shipping 
other  than  small  coasters,  it  is  the  port  to  which  the  produce  of  Ma- 
kawao and  the  lands  adjacent  is  conveyed  for  exportation. 

We  traversed  the  sandy  plains  and  hills  of  Wailuku,  ever  mem- 
orable in  Hawaiian  annals  as  being  the  spot  where  Kamehameha 
landed  with  his  fleet  of  canoes  from  Hawaii  and  fought  his  first 
battle  on  Maui,  whose  ultimate  result  was  the  complete  subjugation 
of  the  leeward  islands.  The  name  of  the  stream  that  issues  from 
the  deep  gorge  of  Wailuku  signifies  "  carnage  choked,"  and  from 
present  indications,  it  would  appear  to  have  been  appropriately  ap- 
plied, for  the  trade-winds  that  sweep  over  this  desolate  tract,  whirl- 
ing the  sand  into  ridges  and  miniature  cones,  daily  disclose  fresh 
evidences  of  the  slaughter.  We  saw  numerous  skulls  and  bones, 
some  of  them  quite  perfect,  but  others  crumbling,  and  all  bleached  to 
a  dazzling  whiteness  in  the  sun. 

Wailuku,  distant  fifteen  miles  from  the  residence  of  Mr.  McLean, 


Souvenir  of  General  Harrison.  137 

is  a  neat  and  pretty  village,  with  roads  and  paths  winding  among 
numerous  taro-patches  and  cultivations.  The  houses  generally  were 
more  commodious  than  those  we  had  seen  on  East  Maui.  The 
mission  residence,  school,  and  church,  were  its  chief  attractions  ;  a 
short  distance  in  the  rear  rose  the  barren  mountains  of  West  Maui. 

Though  a  hasty  meal  had  been  provided  for  us  previous  to  setting 
out,  an  invitation  to  breakfast  from  Kuialani,  a  chief  who  resides 
here,  could  not  be  declined  without  manifest  indifference  to  his  hos- 
pitality ;  giving  our  horses  to  the  boys  in  attendance,  we  accom- 
panied him  to  his  house.  Though  of  thatch,  I  considered  it  pref- 
erable to  many  frame-houses  of  greater  pretensions.  It  was  spacious 
and  airy,  and  the  simplicity  of  its  furniture  rendered  it  still  more 
attractive.  His  wife,  a  portly  female,  and  of  higher  rank  than  him- 
self, was  sitting  upon  a  pile  of  fine  mats,  and  gave  us  a  cordial  aloha 
as  we  entered,  but  she  did  not  change  her  recumbent  position  while 
we  remained.  There  were  a  number  of  female  attendants  or  visitors, 
some  with  long  kahilis  to  brush  away  insects,  and  others  merely 
looking  on,  laughing  familiarly  and  making  comments.  A  snowy 
table-cloth  was  spread,  and  adorned  with  dishes  of  white  porcelain, 
together  with  polished  blades  and  silver  forks,  and  our  fare,  consist- 
ing of  fresh  fish,  roast  duck  and  pork,  fowl,  taro,  potatoes,  breadfruit, 
and  coffee,  was  served  up  to  correspond.  Kuialani  himself  presided 
as  master  of  ceremonies.  We  were  both  amused  and  complimented 
by  one  evidence  of  his  taste.  This  was  a  large  curtain  of  silk 
handkerchiefs,  each  emblazoned  with  the  likeness  of  "General  Wil- 
liam H.  Harrison,"  a  relic  of  the  campaign  of  1840. 

We  loitered  here  for  an  hour,  then  remounted,  and  passed  through 
the  smaller  village  of  Waikapu,  (consecrated  water,)  and  without 
drawing  rein,  continued  on  until'  we  diverged  from  the  cart-road  to 
the  bridle-path  that  winds  over  the  mountain.  Here  we  dismounted 
and  tightened  our  saddle  girths,  and  1  had  yet  to  see  a  Hawaiian 
road  in  all  its  deformity,  that  which  crosses  the  mountains  of  West 
Maui.  I  would  observe,  that  with  all  her  improvements,  Hawaii 
is  sadly  deficient  in  roads  ;  except  where  natural  facilities  are  offered 
for  their  construction,  they  consist  usually  of  miserable  paths  wind- 
ing through  bush  and  brake,  frequently  making  long  detours  to  avoid 
a  narrow  ravine  that  might  be  spanned  by  a  bridge,  and  running 


138  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

along  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  where  a  false  step  would  precipitate 
horse  and  rider  to  destruction.  With  reference  to  the  road  in  ques- 
tion, its  present  route  cannot  well  be  avoided,  unless  one  were  con- 
structed by  the  sea-side.  But  this  would  be  a  work  of  immense 
labor,  arid  would  require  more  time  and  money  than  skilful  engineer- 
ing. From  its  summit,  this  portion  of  the  mountain  descends  in  rocky 
ridges  to  the  sea,  terminating  in  abrupt  cliffs,  into  which  the  ceaseless 
dashing  of  the  waves  has  worn  caverns. 

After  a  short  halt,  we  commenced  the  steep  ascent  by  the  zigzag 
path,  leaning  forward  in  our  saddles,  and  sweltering  beneath  the  rays 
of  a  burning  sun.  A  tedious  ride  brought  us  to  a  cooler  region, 
where  the  coarse  pili  was  waving,  and  here  the  comparative  smooth- 
ness of  the  path  for  a  short  distance  afforded  an  opportunity  for  can- 
tering our  horses. 

Torbert  kept  the  lead,  our  Honolulu  friend  the  middle,  and  I  the 
rear,  for  this  reason — our  leader  had  the  best  horse,  and  was  almost 
daily  in  the  saddle,  while  I  was  fresh  from  the  region  of  tar  and 
greasy  substances  ;  besides,  I  had  become  so  lacerated  by  the  Mexi- 
can saddle,  that  trotting  was  insupportable.  Sometimes,  in  looking 
ahead,  I  would  see  horse  and  rider  suddenly  disappear,  and  after 
a  while  emerge  from  the  opposite  side  of  a  ravine  as  I  reached  its 
brink  to  contemplate  with  dismay  the  route  to  be  pursued.  On  these 
occasions,  Torbert  would  look  back  and  call  out  jocosely,  "  Keep  up, 
keep  up,  or  you'll  lose  your  way."  I  mentally  wished  I  could  see  his 
horse  rolling  down  from  one  of  the  steep  ridges,  so  that  I  could  have 
a  temporary  respite,  while  expressing  concern  for  the  accident.  In 
one  place  the  rocky  wall  rises  perpendicularly,  where  the  path  is  in- 
sufficient for  two  horsemen  to  ride  abreast,  and  on  the  other  side  is 
an  alarmingly  steep  declivity,  interspersed  with  rocks  and  other  un- 
inviting objects.  To  avoid  any  unpleasant  meditations  in  passing 
this  spot,  I  started  my  horse  at  full  speed,  but  with  over-caution, 
drew  the  right  rein  too  strongly,  and  the  result  was  that  my  knee  was 
dashed  against  a  projecting  rock  with  such  violence,  that  for  a  long 
time  my  foot  hung  powerless  from  the  stirrup.  My  humble  advice 
to  all  novices  on  Hawaiian  roads  is,  to  ride  with  shins  and  thighs 
incased  in  greaves. 

The  descent  of  the  mountain  on  the  opposite  side  was  infinitely 


Equestrian  Exercises.  139 

worse  than  the  ascent,  for  in  some  places  it  was  literally  leaping  from 
rock  to  rock,  and  our  animals  seemed  to  pick  their  way  by  instinct. 
A  most  welcome  sound  was  the  faint  roaring  of  the  surf,  which 
could  now  be  seen  fringing  the  bright  landscape  beneath  us,  and  after 
a  brief  interval  our  panting  steeds  were  galloping  along  the  smooth 
sandy  beach  towards  a  couple  of  shady  trees,  where  we  halted  to 
refresh  ourselves. 

A  pleasanter  road  was  near  the  shore,  and  as  if  accustomed  to  it, 
our  horses  immediately  broke  into  a  canter.  Here  we  passed  the 
small  hamlet  of  Olualu,  with  its  cool  stream  issuing  from  the  dark 
mountain  gorge  in  the  rear.  But  few  trees  or  cultivations  were  to 
be  seen,  and  the  average  breadth  of  the  bottom-land,  between  the 
mountain  and  the  shore,  was  perhaps  half  a  mile,  though  in  some  in- 
stances it  was  more  than  double  that  distance.  The  mountains  of 
Molokai  gradually  came  in  sight,  and  at  four  o'clock  we  passed 
the  stony  district  of  Launiupoko,  and  were  soon  after  gratified  by 
the  sight  of  the  cocoanut  grove  of  Polanui,  the  suburbs  of  Lahaina. 


CHAPTER    XI. 


AFTER  passing  two  days  in  Lahaina,  surveying  duties  required  the 
presence  of  Mr.  Torbert  on  the  island  of  Molokai,  ten  miles  distant, 
and  for  this  purpose  a  whale-boat  was  provided  to  convey  us  across 
the  channel.  He  had  availed  himself  of  the  services  of  a  young 
graduate  of  the  Seminary  of  Lahainaluna,  named  Richardson,  who, 
accompanied  by  his  friends  and  others,  swelled  our  number  to  fifteen 
persons. 

We  started  at  an  early  hour,  and  pulled  along  outside  the  reef,  un- 
til the  western  point  of  the  island  had  been  reached,  when  our  sail  was 
set  to  the  stormy  wind  sweeping  through  the  channel.  Our  greatest 
source  of  inconvenience  was  our  younger  passengers,  who,  accus- 
tomed to  their  canoes  with  outriggers,  seemed  to  think  their  safety 


140  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

depended  upon  keeping  the  boat  on  even  keel,  when  the  reverse  was 
the  case  ;  for  it  is  obvious  that  if  a  boat  have  the  wind  abeam,  it  will 
be  less  liable  to  accident  by  having  a  list  to  leeward,  thereby  ele- 
vating the  weather-side,  which  serves  as  a  bulwark  against  the 
waves,  and  by  rising  with  them,  frequently  prevents  their  breaking 
aboard.  Incessant  baling  was  required,  and  between  watching 
squalls  and  seas,  our  excursion  was  anything  but  agreeable.  With- 
out mishap  we  shaped  our  course  through  a  boat  passage  in  the  reef, 
and  landed  upon  the  sandy  beach  of  Molokai. 

A  group  of  natives,  male  and  female,  came  down  to  welcome  our 
arrival,  and  seemed  <to  vie  with  each  other  in  their  officiousness 
about  carrying  our  baggage  to  the  thatch-house  that  was  to  serve 
as  headquarters.  This  place  appeared  to  be  a  rendezvous  for 
young  ladies,  and  no  wonder  a  stranger  becomes  rapidly  profi- 
cient in  Hawaiian.  Their  attentions  were  gratuitously  forced  upon 
us,  and  had  we  given  them  permission,  they  would  have  carried 
chain,  taken  compass  ranges,  and  to  the  best  of  their  ability,  cal- 
culated the  areas  of  trapezia  and  parallelograms.  We  noticed  one 
conspicuous  among  her  companions  by  her  graceful  proportions  and 
exuberant  spirits,  who  rejoiced  in  the  euphonious  but  sacrilegious 
appellation  of  Ka-i-o-a-la-ni,  (the  food  of  heaven.) 

Our  first  care  was  to  purchase  a  good-sized  pig,  which  was  killed, 
dressed,  and  left  to  roast  in  the  oven.  The  surveying  this  day  con- 
sisted chiefly  of  ranging  along  the  beach  for  a  base-line,  and  set- 
ting up  convenient  stations  for  the  operations  of  the  morrow.  We 
returned  tired  and  hungry  to  our  domicil,  and  after  referring  to  notes 
and  delineating  sundry  geometrical  problems,  Mr.  Torbert  ordered 
the  cook  to  bring  in  the  pig,  that  had  by  this  time  undergone  a 
duplicate  roasting. 

This  description  of  cooking,  with  but  slight  variation,  is  common 
throughout  Polynesia  :  a  hole  is  dug  in  the  .ground,  in  which  a  fire 
is  built;  over  this  are  piled  stones,  which  become  thoroughly  heated  ; 
with  these  the  pig  is  stuffed  and  surrounded,  after  which  it  is  covered 
with  leaves,  usually  banana,  and  earth  or  other  substances  heaped 
over  them  to  retain  the  heat.  Sufficient  time  having  elapsed,  the 
food  is  removed,  cooked  to  a  nicety.  Our  pig  was  served  up  on 
a  wooden  trencher  in  fragments,  emitting  a  delicious  odor  for 


Taking  Lessons  in  Gastronomy.  141 

hungry  stomachs,  and  to  set-off,  we  had  a  huge  calabash  of  poi.  As 
the  reader  may  not  recollect  the  mode  of  its  preparation,  I  will 
briefly  allude  to  it.  The  taro  (Arum  csculentum)  is  roasted  in  the 
manner  described,  and  the  outer  portion  having  been  removed,  a 
small  quantity  at  a  time  is  laid  upon  a  board,  slightly  hollowed  out 
for  that  purpose,  when  it  is  beaten  into  a  pasty  mass  with  a  stone 
pestle.  The  task  is  laborious,  and  devolves  on  the  men,  who  strip 
to  it,"  and  have  a  calaba'sh  of  water  near  by,  into  which  they  fre- 
quently dip  their  hands,  to  aid  them  in  removing  the  glutinous  mass 
from  the  board  to  which  it  adheres  by  pounding.  When  properly 
prepared,  it  should  be  without  lumps  ;  after  this,  it  is  removed  from 
the  board  to  large  calabashes,  into  which  is  poured  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  water,  so  that  by  kneading,  it  may  be  reduced  to  the  consist- 
ency required  ;  that  is,  sufficiently  tenacious  to  adhere  to  the  fingers, 
while,  by  a  dexterous  twirl,  it  is  conveyed  to  the  mouth.  It  is 
then  set  aside  to  ferment,  a  process  requiring  two  or  three  days. 
In  this  state  it  bears  some  resemblance  to  yeast,  and  is  of  a  light 
gray  color.  The  accomplishment  of  feeding  one's  self  can  only  be 
acquired  by  long  practice,  and  though  my  efforts  at  first  were  a 
source  of  diversion  to  the  natives,  they  subsequently  complimented 
me  on  my  proficiency  in  the  art.  I  was  now  for  the  first  time  com- 
pelled to  make  a  trial  of  its  merits,  which  was  done  by  cautiously  ven- 
turing one  finger,  and  in  endeavoring  to  convey  it  quickly  to  my 
mouth,  its  immediate  vicinity  received  the  greater  portion.  However, 
having  made  a  beginning,  the  taste  was  soon  acquired,  and  instead  of 
one,  I  used  three  fingers.  When  our  repast  was  finished,  Torbert 
affirmed  that  I  had  lowered  the  contents  of  the  calabash  by  three 
inches.  After  us  came  our  attendants,  and  although  they  fell-to  vora- 
ciously, there  still  remained  a  sufficiency  for  the  morrow. 

We  breakfasted  early,  and  prepared  for  our  tramp  up  the  mountain. 
Blankets  were  bundled  up,  and  natives  hired  to  carry  them,  besides 
one  to  act  as  quartermaster,  also  a  few  supernumeraries  to  make  them- 
selves generally  useful.  As  we  set  out,  old  and  young  assembled  to 
witness  our  departure,  and  some  of  the  children  accompanied  us  for 
a  considerable  distance  up  the  path  we  were  following.  Richard- 
son had  found  an  old  man,  one  of  the  ancient  regime,  to  guide  us  to 
the  bounds  of  the  land,  the  name  of  which  I  do  not  recollect.  The 


142  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

stations  erected  at  appropriate  points  were  piles  of  stones,  and 
sometimes  stakes  were  thrust  in  at  the  top,  to  render  them  more  con- 
spicuous. By  noon  we  had  ascended  as  far  as  Mr.  Torbert  thought 
necessary,  though  still  a  long  distance  from  the  northern  boundary  of 
the  land.  Upon  Richardson's  inquiring  where  it  was,  the  old  man 
leaned  upon  his  staff,  and  pointing  in  the  direction  of  the  clouds,  ex- 
claimed, "  Ma-o-a-a-a  /"  meaning  that  it  was  still  at  an  indefinite  dis- 
tance. 

After  partaking  of  a  hasty  lunch  and  erecting  a  cairn,  we  com- 
menced descending  from  the  ridge  in  a  line  parallel  with  the  shore. 
This  was  no  easy  task,  for  the  side  was  steep,  from  which  large 
trees  were  projecting,  and  clothed  with  a  heavy  growth  of  under- 
wood, through  which  we  sometimes  slid  and  crept.  The  only  sounds 
were  our  voices  and  the  faint  murmuring  of  the  stream  rippling  over 
its  stony  bed  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  for  not  a  warbler  enlivened 
these  solitudes  with  its  notes.  The  descent  accomplished,  we  made 
a  momentary  halt  to  perform  necessary  ablutions,  and  an  opportunity 
was  afforded  of  seeing  how  the  natives  drink  without  a  suitable 
vessel.  This  is  simply  done  by  bending  over  the  stream  and  throw- 
ing the  water  into  the  mouth  with  one  hand. 

The  ascent  of  the  opposite  side  was  now  to  be  encountered,  and 
this  was  attended  with  danger  to  those  who  lagged  behind,  for  our 
train  was  stretched  out  at  wide  intervals.  It  was  steep,  and  those 
who  pioneered  the  way  would,  in  climbing,  frequently  detach  stones 
and  rocks  from  the  loose  soil,  which  went  bounding  and  crashing 
through  the  bushes,  until  checked  by  a  tree  or  the  bed  of  the  valley. 
These  projectiles  could  be  heard,  but  not  seen,  and  the  moment  a 
person  accidentally  started  one,  he  would  call  out  "  Malama  okbu  /'' 
(look  out  for  yourselves,)  and  skilful  dodging  was  sometimes  required 
to  avoid  them. 

On  reaching  the  summit  of  the  adjoining  ridge,  we  halted  for 
our  stragglers  to  come  up.  When  a  native  arrived,  he  would  bawl 
out,  in  true  Hawaiian  style,  to  accelerate  the  movements  of  those  be- 
hind ;  who  in  turn  would  reply  with  something  equivalent  to  "  0, 
mind  your  business,"  while  we  could  hear  them  floundering  among 
the  bushes  below.  Our  quartermaster  came  last,  a  boy  about 
twenty  years  old,  and  whose  voice  we  frequently  heard  as  his  cala- 


A  Relic  of  the  Past.  143 


bashes  became  entangled  among  the  branches.  He  was  completely 
begrimed  with  mud  ;  although  the  atmosphere  was  cool,  the  per- 
spiration was  pouring  from  him  in  streams,  and  I  believe  at  that 
moment  he  heartily  wished  that  such  an  appendage  as  an  empty 
stemach  had  never  existed.  Again,  after  crossing  a  narrow  tract 
of  level  land,  we  had  another  descent  to  make  ;  but  this  was 
attended  with  less  difficulty.  From  the  summit  of  the  opposite 
side,  we  looked  up  the  adjoining  valley  on  our  left,  and  a  white 
streak  amid  the  dark-green  foliage  was  the  foam  of  a  water- 
fall. The  opposite  bounds  of  the  land  were  now  being  traced, 
and  our  old  gray-headed  guide,  with  his  long  staff,  took  the  lead ; 
but  almost  every  vestige  of  a  path  had  been  long  since  obliterated. 
For  years  he  had  not  traversed  these  scenes,  and  sometimes  he 
gazed  about  bewildered.  We  finally  struck  into  what  had  once 
been  quite  a  thoroughfare,  and  he  walked  on,  chanting  to  himself 
in  a  low  tone.  I  requested  Richardson  to  go  carefully  behind  with- 
out disturbing  him,  and  listen  to  what  he  was  singing.  When  he 
returned,  he  said  he  was  "  singing  about  the  time  when  the 
roads  were  plain,  and  the  land  was  covered  with  houses  and  strong 
men."  Poor  old  man  !  He  had  outlived  his,  generation  ;  and  had 
witnessed  the  last  gathering  of  warriors  among  his  native  hills,  and 
heard  the  last  war-song  chanted.  He  now  lived  to  see  a  relic  of 
his  race  fast  disappearing  before  the  innovations  of  the  foreigner. 
Portions  of  his  body  were  fancifully  tattooed  ;  and  I  noticed  three 
figures  upon  his  neck,  which  were  said  to  be  a  mark  of  distinction. 

Evening  overtook  us  when  the  descent  had  been  but  half  accom- 
plished, and  in  looking  over  the  ridge  we  were  fortunate  enough  to 
discover  a  native  house  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  half  hidden  by  a 
banana  grove.  It  was  past  sunset  before  we  reached  it.  The  old 
man  and  his  wife  were  hospitable  enough  to  offer  us  the  best  their 
house  afforded,  which  at  that  time  consisted  of  bananas  and  poi. 
Of  these  and  the  fragments  of  our  pig  we  made  a  tolerable  meal. 
For  several  reasons,  I  spread  my  blankets  upon  clean  mats  under  a 
shed,  where  the  night  was  passed  comfortably. 

While  continuing  our  occupation  the  day  following,  my  attention 
was  attracted  by  a  green  embankment  commencing  far  up  the  valley, 
the  bottoms  of  all  of  which  incline  towards  the  sea,  and  preserving 


144  Reef -Rowings  in  the  South  Seas. 

a  level  as  it  continued  its  course  along  the  side  of  a  dividing  ridge, 
winding  in  and  out  among  projecting  spurs,  until  intersected  by  the 
inclined  plane  of  the  elevation  along  whose  side  it  ran.  I  at  first 
took  it  to  be  an  old  line  of  fortification,  but  on  inquiry,  learned  it  was 
an  aqueduct,  constructed  with  immense  labor  in  the  days  of  Kame- 
hameha  the  Great,  to  convey  a  portion  of  the  water  from  the  valley 
to  the  uplands  requiring  irrigation. 

Three  days  were  spent  in  this  vicinity,  after  which  we  took  our 

departure  for  Keluaaha,  the  residence  of  Mr.  H ,  the  missionary 

stationed  on  this  island.  We  were  accompanied  by  a  young  native, 
one  of  Richardson's  friends,  who  took  great  pride  in  exhibiting  his 
palapala  (diploma)  authorizing  him  to  plead  at  the  bar.  Mr.  Torbert 
reached  the  village  about  three  p.  M.,  and  without  pausing  to  rest, 
with  characteristic  energy,  immediately  commenced  operations.  He 
had  preceded  me  by  half  an  hour,  and  I  found  him  on  my  arrival  sur- 
rounded by  the  entire  juvenile  population,  wondering  what  he  saw  so 
interesting  about  Keluaaha  as  to  require  such  careful  inspection 
through  two  parallel  strips  of  keleawe,  (brass.)  It  would  be  un- 
necessary to  recapitulate  the  incidents  that  transpired  during  a  four 
days'  sojourn  at  the  residence  of  Mr.  H- .  Again  we  had  moun- 
tains to  ascend  and  valleys  to  cross  ;  but  by  far  the  most  agreeable 
feature  to  revert  to  is  the  hospitality  we  enjoyed,  and  the  cordial 
manner  with  which  it  was  tendered.  The  snug  cottage  with  garden 
and  fences,  the  school-house  and  church,  and  the  harmony  of  domes- 
tic economy,  were  strongly  associated  with  recollections  of  home. 

Mrs.  H informed  me  that  she  had  been  a  resident  there  for 

eighteen  years. 

Much  has  been  said  regarding  the  charitable  disposition  of  the 
natives  of  this  district;  without  questioning  the  plan  or  principles 
adopted  for  their  instruction,  it  may  be  observed  that  there  is  a  possi- 
bility of  inculcating  too  ultra  notions  of  propriety,  and  I  will  cite  an 
instance  that  occurred  during  the  season  when  southwest  gales  were 
prevalent.  On  one  occasion,  a  schooner,  I  think  it  was  the  "  Emma," 
owned  by  James  Y.  Kanehoa,  Esq.,  Governor  of  Maui,  visited  the 
small  bay  of  Kanakakai,  and  while  lying  there,  was  overtaken  by  a 
storm,  and  dragging  at  her  anchors,  she  drifted  towards  the1  reef,  by 
surging  against  which  she  carried  away  her  rudder.  A  vessel  with- 


A  Community  of  Sabbath  Observers.  145 

out  a  rudder  is  as  useless  as  an  "  ox  in  a  pit,"  whether  Sabbath  or 
not,  and  as  soon  as  the  weather  would  permit,  the  defect  was  rem- 
edied, to  be  prepared  for  any  emergency.  The  day  happened  to 
be  Sunday.  Previous  to  the  storm,  a  number  of  natives  had  engaged 
their  passages  for  Honolulu  ;  but  having  seen  the  captain  labor  on 
the  Sabbath,  for  his  own  preservation,  they  came  on  board  and  gave 
him  to  understand  that  they  could  not  conscientiously  comply  with 
their  agreement,  and  when  the  weather  permitted,  he  was  forced  to 
depart  as  he  came. 

Bidding  adieu  to  our  kind  friends,  we  returned  by  the  road  we  had 
come,  and  in  company  with  Richardson,  called  upon  the  chief  judge 
of  the  island,  his  father-in-law,  where  we  were  hospitably  enter- 
tained until  the  arrival  of  the  boat.  The  house,  a  large  adobe  one, 
is  neatly  plastered  and  whitewashed,  and  being  situated  on  an  emi- 
nence, commands  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  Here  I 
indulged  so  freely  in  poi  and  milk  that  I  could  never  endure  the 
sight  of  the  mixture  since. 

The  next  day  our  boat  arrived,  and  being  hauled  as  near  to 
the  shore  as  the  reef  would  allow,  we  were  carried  to  it  upon  the 
shoulders  of  natives,  and  with  no  breeze,  shoved  out  into  the  open 
sea.  There  were  no  trades  that  day,  and  we  had  a  long  pull  beneath 
a  burning  sun.  The  strong  wind  of  the  day  previous  having  left  a 
heavy  swell,  our  boat  rolled  about  in  an  unpleasant  manner,  and 
Richardson  was  so  affected  by  it  that  he  leaned  upon  the  gunwale, 
excessively  sick.  For  a  change,  I  sat  down  to  an  oar,  and  while 
rowing,  it  accidentally  slipped  from  the  row-lock,  when  I  fell  back- 
wards at  full  length.  To  say  nothing  of  sundry  contusions,  I  se- 
riously fractured  a  large  calabash  and  its  cover,  the  owner  of  which 
muttered  invectives  until  we  reached  Lahaina.  Here,  for  a  brief 
interval,  I  bade  adieu  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

10 


146  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

CHAPTER    XII. 

KA-LE-PO-LE-PO,  AND   THE  "OLD  PLANTATION." 

Six  months  have  been  passed  among  the  deep  canons  and  pine- 
clad  mountains  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  we  are  once  more  gallop- 
ing along  the  smooth  sandy  beach,  with  foaming  breakers  on  one 
hand,  and  the  dark  gorge  of  Olualu  on  the  other.  Everything  wears 
a  smiling  aspect :  the  native  huts,  the  fishing  canoes  outside  the 
reef,  and  the  dark  rocks,  offer  a  familiar  welcome.  Even  the  barren 
mountain,  whose  obstacles  are  again  to  be  encountered,  appears  less 
formidable. 

Having  accomplished  its  passage,  I  "kept  away"  to  the  right,  skirt- 
ing the  common  by  the  sea-shore,  and  after  a  ride  of  five  or  six 
miles,  reached  the  small  village  of  Kalepolepo.  Its  name  has  been 
appropriately  bestowed,  and  may  be  rendered  into  English  as  "  su- 
perlatively unclean."  It  consists  of  a  few  grass  and  frame  houses 
situated  upon  the  land  of  Waiakoa.  During  the  year  1850,  the  in- 
creased commerce  of  this  group  tended  greatly  to  its  improvement, 
and  at  almost  any  time  one  or  more  vessels  might  be  seen  anchored 
in  vthe  bay,  chiefly  Californian  traders.  The  place  is  built  upon 
sand,  and  during  the  strong  gales  prevalent  from  November  to  March, 
the  low  embankment  is  frequently  overflowed  by  the  heavy  swell 
from  the  southwest.  Its  locality,  in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  is 
perhaps  the  best  that  could  have  beefi  selected  with  reference,  at  that 
time,  to  the  chief  article  of  export,  the  Irish  potato.  Situated  on 
Malia  Bay,  and  about  one-third  the  distance  from  East  to  West  Maui, 
it  has  good  roads  leading  to  it  from  various  cultivated  tracts  in  the  po- 
tato district, or  Kula,  from  4,000  to  5,000  feet  above  the  sea;  also  from 
Makawao,  Waikapu,  and  Wailuku,  besides  being  on  the  direct  road 
from  plantations  on  the  leeward  side  of  East  Maui  to  Lahaina.  The 
anchorage  is  good  for  vessels  of  every  class  at  the  distance  of  half 
or  three-fourths  of  a  mile  west  of  the  town,  while  vessels  of  lighter 
draught  can  anchor  nearer  in.  There  is  a  reef  skirting  the  shore, 
partially  bare  at  low  water,  and  which  in  some  degree  breaks  the  force 
of  the  waves  during  the  southwest  gales. 


A  Polynesian  Desert.  147 

The  fish-pond  immediately  in  the  rear,  and  running  nearly  par- 
allel with  the  town,  is  now  almost  filled  up,  but  it  was  formerly  ex- 
tensive, being  a  royal  prerogative.  The  site  of  the  old  town  was 
located  farther  back,  the  pond  extending  between  it  and  the  sea- 
shore ;  but  for  the  last  twenty  years  vegetation  has  ceased  in  many 
places,  thereby  exposing  the  sandy  soil  to  the  full  force  of  the  trade- 
winds  that  sometimes  sweep  violently  across  the  common,  raising  the 
sand  in  clouds.  Thus,  during  successive  years,  deposits  have  been 
made  in  its  waters,  forming  a  tolerable  foundation  for  the  present 
town  ;  and  all  that  remains  of  the  pond '  is  fast  disappearing  beneath 
the  sand-clouds  that  are  daily  driving  across  it.  Momokus  (whirl- 
winds) occasionally  occur,  and  though  of  brief  duration,  their 
effect  is  sometimes  embarrassing  to  vessels  that  drag  at  their 
anchors,  while  the  water  is  whirled  over  them  in  masses.  They  are 
always  unpleasant  to  those  residing  on  shore,  who  usually  retreat  to 
their  houses  to  avoid  the  blinding  sand.  Although  the  bay  is 
often  exceedingly  rough,  the  natives  boldly  venture  out  in  boats,  or 
their  canoes,  where  at  times  they  may  be  seen  fearlessly  standing  or 
sitting  upon  their  outriggers. 

The  general  appearance  of  Kalepolepo  is  desolate  in  the  extreme, 
but  a  relief  is  afforded  by  the  majestic  background,  with  its  hills, 
valleys,  and  broad  belt  of  forest,  the  dark  summit  of  Haleakala  tower- 
ing above  the  clouds,  at  an  elevation  of  nearly  10,000  feet  above  the 
sea.  No  fresh  water  can  be  procured  here  within  a  distance  of 
several  miles,  unless  during  the  rainy  season,  when  it  is  sought  for 
among  the  deep  ravines,  where  it  is  found  in  pools.  On  the  com- 
mon, near  the  sea-shore,  and  between  Kalepolepo  and  West  Maiii, 
are  extensive  salt-ponds.  Into  these  the  sea  is  admitted  by  small 
channels,  and  by  its  evaporation,  the  salt  is  found  in  snowy  crystals 
thickly  incrusting  the  bed  of  the  pond,  when  it  is  piled  in  small  coni- 
cal heaps  by  the  natives,  and  covered  with  grass  or  leaves  to  protect 
it  from  the  sand  and  dirt.  Not  far  from  the  town,  upon  the  arid 
plain,  are  numerous  relics  of  mortality,  and,  as  at  Wailuku,  this  Gol- 
gotha is  alternately  covered  and  exposed  by  the  drifting  sand.  In 
crossing  this  plain  the  galloping  hoof  scatters  crumbling  bones  to  the 
eddying  winds,  and  hastens  their  commingling  with  kindred  dust. 
Among  the  sand-hills  of  Palauea,  five  miles  distant,  I  have  seen 


148  Reef-Ravings  in  the  South  Seas. 

children  erecting  pyramids  of  skulls,  and  inclosing  them  with  an- 
cestral bones. 

After  leaving  Kalepolepo,  my  road,  for  three  or  four  miles,  was 
over  the  hard  sand  beach,  and  passed  through  a  hamlet  with  a  grove  of 
cocoanut-trees,  which,  though  small,  is  very  inviting,  and  forms  an 
agreeable  contrast  to  the  desert  by  which  it  is  nearly  surrounded. 
Leaving  the  shore  on  the  right,  the  road  winds  through  a  succession 
of  low  sand-hills,  some  of  them  curiously  formed  into  miniature  cones 
and  embankments,  and  scantily  covered  with  vegetation,  chiefly  the 
creeping  convolvulus.  It  was  solitary  and  cheerless,  and  continued 
so  for  two  miles,  before  a  soil  was  reached  sufficiently  arable  for  the 
cultivation  of  sweet  potatoes  or  melons.  Though  stony,  it  now  be- 
came firmer,  while  the  hills  were  clothed  with  the  coarse  pili,  here 
and  there  relieved  by  the  yellow-flowered  ilima  bushes.  The  ap- 
pearance of  the  country  improved  with  the  ascent ;  the  grass  grew 
firmer,  while  the  soil  was  darker ;  the  low  ilima  was  exchanged  for 
the  bright  foliage  of  the  shady  candlenut,  and  here  and  there,  small 
clusters  of  arkokoa  afforded  an  agreeable  diversity.  A  solitary  hut 
now  and  then  betokened  that  the  confines  of  civilization  wef e  once 
more  being  approached,  and  soon  after,  the  district  of  Ulupalakua 
in  its  beauty  and  fertility  was  before  me. 

It  was  pleasant  to  revisit  the  "  Old  Plantation  ;"  and  after  gallop- 
ing along  the  road  through  the  cane-fields,  I  halted  for  a  moment 
upon  the  knoll  that  overlooks  the  little  village.  It  was  evening,  and 
from  the  tall  chimney  volumes  of  black  smoke  were  ascending,  and 
occasionally  a  fork  of  flame  shot  upward  through  the  gloom.  As  I 
rode  leisurely  down  to  the  old  homestead,  the  dogs  sprang  out  to 
give  me  a  boisterous  welcome,  and  after  dismounting,  it  was  counter- 
signed by  the  cordial  -grasp  of  Mr.  Torbert. 

I  noticed  several  new  faces  present,  an  indication  of  increasing 
prosperity.  Accompanying  my  friend  to  the  boiling-house,  where 
he  was  superintending  the  natives  who  watched  the  bubbling  cal- 
drons, we  seated  ourselves  on  a  pile  of  dry  rind,  used  for  fuel,  and 
I  gleaned  from  him  all  that  had  transpired  during  my  absence, 
domestic  and  political,  including  the  redoubtable  attack  of  the  French 
on  Honolulu,  and  the  theft  of  the  yacht  "  Kamehameha." 

After  remaining  at  Ulupalakua  for  several  days,  with  Mr.  Torbert 


Letterings  with  Chain  and  Compass.  149 

'I  revisited  Lahaina  and  Honolulu,  and  on  our  return,  accompanied 
him  on  a  surveying  excursion  to  Kula,  the  incidents  of  which  will 
be  reserved  for  the  following  chapter. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

SURVEYING      IN     KULA. 

AT  an  early  hour  the  boy  especially  appointed  for  that  purpose 
was  sent  out  to  bring  in  the  horses,  of  which  we  have  quite  a 
"  stable"  at  Ulupalakua ;  and  having  prepared  our  baggage,  which 
each  man  carried  behind  his  saddle,  and  secured  our  surveying  in- 
struments, we  started  off  for  Kula  by  the  Makawao  road.  Our  party 
consisted  of  Mr.  Torbert,  Mr.  A (a  son  of  one  of  the  mission- 
aries, who  was  familiar  with  the  native  tongue),  and  myself.  After  a 

three  hours'  ride,  we  reached  the  house  of  Mr.  S ,  on  the  land  of 

Koonolu,  which  was  to  serve 'as  headquarters  during  our  operations. 
In  this  instance,  the  necessity  of  looking  out  for  an  old  native  who 
knew  the  bounds  was  obviated  by  the  presence  of  the  konohiki,  or 
overseer  of  the  chief  wrho  formerly  owned  the  land,  and  who  re- 
ceived, with  very  bad  grace,  a  letter  from  his  superior  requesting 
him  to  render  us  all  requisite  assistance,  and  quietly  yield  up  his 
authority. 

Our  task  was  commenced  by  sending  a  native  up  through  the 
forest  with  white  flags,  to  affix  them  at  its .  upper  edge,  on  either 
bound  of  the  land.  A  considerable  time  elapsed  before  the  white 
beacons  were  visible,  for  the  forest  was  pathless  and  the  distance 
long,  the  elevation  sought  being  far  above  the  clouds.  Both  alti- 
tudes and  angles  were  taken  by  theodolite,  an  instrument  almost 
indispensable  for  surveying  in  this  country.  Our  distance  was  ob- 
tained by  chaining  across  the  breadth  of  the  land  for  a  base-line. 

Directions  were  then  given  about  cutting  a  wide  path  entirely 
through  the  forest  from  its  lower  to  its  upper  extremity,  and  also 


150  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

about  continuing  the  survey  from  where  we  then  were,  by  compass, 
to  the  sea-shore,  a  distance  of  more  than  twelve  miles ;  after  this, 
Mr.  Torbert  took  his  departure,  leaving  us  to  finish  the  remainder 
of  the  job.  My  first  care  was  to  secure  the  services  of  four  strong 
natives  for  the  bush-work,  and  after  breakfast  we  set  out  for  the 
scene  of  our  labor. 

Having  provided  ourselves  with  all  that  was  requisite,  we  started 
away  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  crossing  the  ravine  that 
divides  Koonolu  from  Koheo,  to  cut  a  pathway  through  the  forest 
along  the  southern  boundary  of  the  last-mentioned  land.  Our  path 
for  a  considerable  distance  was  through  the  potato  cultivations,  where 
the  natives  were  commencing  their  labors  for  the  day.  Boys  were 
scampering  among  the  trees  and  driving  together  the  cattle,  while 
some  of  the  men  lounged  lazily  around  the  carts,  to  yoke  them  ;  girls, 
with  their  hair  braided  behind,  or  hanging  about  their  faces,  were 
trudging  leisurely  along  with  calabashes  in  hand,  and  chanting  their 
songs,  though  their  garments  were  dripping  with  the  heavy  dew  they 
had  brushed  from  the  bushes  ;  the  birds  were  singing  their  matins, 
and  though  warblers  are  scarce,  there  is  no  spot  throughout  the 
group  more  musical  than  the  groves  that  skirt  the  forests  of  Kula. 

We  soen  passed  the  limits  of  cultivation,  and  stood  on  the  edge 
of  the  forest.  Everything  was  dripping  with  moisture ;  for  though 
the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun  were  lighting  up  the  broad  isthmus  be- 
tween the  two  promontories,  they  had  yet  to  creep  over  the  lofty 
summit  of  Haleakala  before  reaching  us,  where,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  5,000  feet,  we  were  almost  shivering  in  the  coolness  of  the 
morning.  Unlike  the  forests  of  the  continents,  lofty  and  compara- 
tively open,  those  of  Polynesia  are  low,  dense,  and  obstructed  by  a 
heavy  underwood  ;  and  although  wanting  in  height,  their  frequently 
twisted  trunks  and  crooked  branches  remind  one  of  some  of  the 
scraggy  forests  of  South  Australia.  Our  natives  commenced  their 
labors  by  a  general  smoke,  striking  fire  with  flint  and  steel,  and 
each  inhaling  half  a  dozen  whiffs  from  a  short  wooden  pipe.  Then, 
with  tough  poles  about  six  feet  long,  they  commenced  beating  a  path, 
relieving  each  other  at  short  intervals,  and  chopping  down  with 
a  hatchet  such  small  trees  or  bushes  as  obstructed  their  progress. 
We  made  but  little  advance  that  day;  they  told  us  that  on  the  mor- 


A  Reconnaissance  abooe  the  Clouds.  151 

row  we  would  reach  the  spot  where  the  trees  grew  larger,  and  kahi- 
kuloa,  (in  bygone  days,)  their  ancestors,  built  their  war-canoes. 

We  retrograded  by  the  path  we  had  made,  and  reached  the  house 

of  Mr.  S at  sundown,  where,  after  partaking  of  a  substantial 

supper,  we  retired  to  rest  at  an  early  hour,  and  enjoyed  a  comforta- 
ble repose  between  sheets  of  the  native  kappa.  On  the  morrow  we 
resumed  our  duties,  and  by  noon  had  reached  the  locality  mentioned 
by  our  guides.  It  had  little  or  no  distinction  from  the  surrounding 
forest,  except  that  at  this  elevation  the  timber  was  heavier,  though 
more  scattered,  and  that  the  surface  of  the  land  in  this  vicinity  afford- 
ed a  comparatively  level  resting-place. 

A  century  ago  and  these  solitudes  had  echoed  the  busy  sounds  of 
the  artisan,  who,  with  fire  and  rude  implements  of  stone,  modelled 
the  fleets  of  his  kingdom  that  were  to  battle  upon  the  "  eight  seas  of 
Hawaii."  Here  were  huts  with  their  families,  and  up  and  down  the 
mountain  we  had  traversed,  bearers  of  burdens  were  ascending 
and  descending,  while  their  lordly  taskmasters  presided  over  all. 
One  of  our  guides  seemed  to  be  fully  sensible  of  the  broad  distinc- 
tion that  existed  between  Hawaii  as  it  then  was  and  as  it  now  is,  for, 
striking  the  koalipi  (axe)  deep  into  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  he  exclaimed, 
"  Naaupo  lakou  ia  manewa — akamai  makou  keia  manewa^^they  were 
ignorant  then,  but  we  are  expert  now.) 

We  were  now  among  the  clouds,  and  at  times  completely  envel- 
oped by  them,  and  once  a  smart  shower  compelled  us  to  seek  refuge 
under  the  remarkably  curved  trunk  of  a  koa-tree  that  for  years  had 
lain  prostrate,  and  the  vines  and  under.wood  that  had  growa  up 
around  its  sides  seemed  to  protect,  while  it  afforded  shelter  for  us  all. 
It  was  not  until  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day  that  the  decreasing 
size  and  peculiar  appearance  of  the  trees  indicated  our  approach  to 
the  upper  edge  of  the  forest,  and  open  strips  of  land  were  passed, 
without  resorting  to  either  pole  or  hatchet.  After  crossing  a  narrow 
marshy  space,  we  emerged  completely  from  the  bush  to  the  coarse 
grass  and  stunted  shrubs,  where,  from  this  lofty  eminence,  over 
forest  and  cloud,  we  looked  down  upon  the  landscape  beneath. 
Our  natives  collected  some  dry  fuel,  and  we  were  soon  sitting 
around  the  crackling  flames,  which  sent  forth  an  acceptable  heat  in 
this  cold  atmosphere.  By  an  optical  illusion,  the  extended  horizon 


152  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

seemed  to  rise  to  a  level  with  the  eye,  and  the  rugged  summits  of 
West  Maui,  Molokai,  and  Lanai  loomed  up  before  us,  but  Kahu- 
lawe  was  hidden  by  intervening  ridges.  We  were  at  too  great  a 
distance  to  discover  minute  objects,  but  the  localities  of  Wailuku  and 
Waikupa  were  recognized  by  the  bold  outline  of  mountain  and 
shore.  Here  were  strawberry  vines  in  abundance  ;  during  the  sum- 
mer season  the  fruit  is  plentiful,  as  is  the  case  on  the  uplands  of  most 
of  the  islands.  When  I  visited  this  district  a  year  later,  the  path 
we  had  made  was  almost  obliterated  by  the  underwood  and  fern  that 
had  sprung  up ;  the  latter  everywhere  clothes  the  mountain-side  like 
a  garment. 

On  the  following  day  the  services  of  our  native  laborers  were  dis- 
pensed with,  and  having  secured  the  assistance  of  a  Yankee,  whom 
I  shall  call  Arnold,  and  hired  a  boy  to  follow  with  the  horses,  we 
commenced  our  observations  by  compass,  chaining  from  station  to 
station,  and  following  the  bounds  towards  the  sea-shore  that  had  al- 
ready been  pointed  out  by  the  konohiki.  Unavoidable  delays  pre- 
vented an  early  start,  and  the  difference  between  this  and  our  pre- 
vious labors  was  perceptible  in  the  intense  heat  and  absence  of  water, 
for  the  land  below  this  forest  belt  is  open,  or  scantily  covered  with 
shrubbery,.while  the  soil  becomes  more  arid  and  stony,  and  the  sinu- 
ous course  of  rocky  ravines  may  be  traced,  until,  like  dark  threads, 
their  windings  are  lost  upon  the  broad  isthmus  or  common.  The 
sterility  of  the  soil  increases  with  the  descent,  until  near  the  base 
of  this  portion  of  the  mountain,  a  distance  of  seven  or  eight  miles 
from  the  cultivated  tracts,  the  reddish  earth  is  covered  only  with 
coarse  grass  and  the  low  ilima  bushes,  and  dark  ferruginous  rocks 
are  scattered  thickly  around.  Our  road  lay  for  more  than  twelve 
miles  through  this  description  of  country,  unenlivened  by  either  house 
or  tree  that  could  afford  a  shelter. 

Half  way  down  the  mountain  we  found  a  pool  of  pure  rain-water  in 
a  rocky  basin,  ^and  which  proved  most  acceptable  to  us,  for  we  were 
parched  with  thirst,  more  especially  Arnold,  who  contemplated  a  bath, 
but  that  would  have  been  taking  liberties  with  this  provision  of  nature. 
Our  guide  discovered  a  cave  in  the  ravine  sufficiently  commodious  to 
contain  us  all ;  and  as  there  was  no  prospect  of  our  reaching  Kalepo^ 
lepo  that  night,  we  concluded  to  camp  out  where  we  were.  While 


A  Page  of  Inconveniences.  153 

erecting  a  cairn  of  stones  upon  a  slight  eminence  for  a  conspicuous' 
bound,  we  discovered  strange  proceedings  among  our  quadrupeds  ; 
the  native  held  fast  to  the  tether  ropes,  arid  they  were  galloping 
around  him  at  full  speed,  prancing  and  performing  evolutions  gener- 
ally. We  were  too  distant  to  render  him  assistance,  and  A ,  our 

linguist,  shouted  "  Ptla  /"  (as  you  are;)  but  the  native  probably 
concluded  that  it  was  easier  to  direct  than  to  perform,  for  a 
moment  after  my  horse  shot  off  at  a  tangent,  while  the  broad  Mexi- 
can stirrups  were  beating  time  upon  his  back.  Together  with 
Arnold's  mule,  which  had  been  quietly  browsing  a  short  distance  off, 
we  were  spectators  of  the  scene,  and  not  three  minutes  had  elapsed 
from  the  time  my  animal  first  conceived  the  notion  of  liberty,  before 
he  had  disappeared  among  the  hummocks  that  skirt  the  common. 
Arnold,  full  of  commiseration,  mounted  his  mule  and  galloped  off  in 
pursuit,  soon  disappearing  among  the  low  hills,  while  we  who  re- 
mained set  about  making  ourselves  comfortable  for  the  night.  Our 
natives  needed  no  instruction,  for  they  collected  an  abundance  of  dry 
grass  to  line  the  cave,  and  filled  the  vessels  with  water;  but  as  to  fire, 
our  resources  were  small,  owing  to  the  want  of  fuel,  which  consisted 
merely  of  dry  grass  and  bits  of  wood  that  had  been  washed  down 
the  ravines.  A  small  tree  grew  near  the  mouth  of  the  cave,  and 
I  requested  one  of  the  men  to  break  it  down,  and  lay  it  upon  the 
fire  ;  but  he  replied,  "  Laau  ala — kapu  /"(sandal-wood — prohibited  !) 
It  proved  to  be  a  bastard  species  of  the  precious  shrub  growing 
solitarily  amid  this  scene  of  desolation,  and  although  the  Hawaiian 
Government  have  "  tabooed1'  the  sandal-wood,  I  must  beg  its  indul- 
gence for  what  may  be  construed  a  violation  of  the  law,  by  plead- 
ing the  emergency.  Its  branches,  which,  with  further  preparation, 
might  have  exhaled  a  grateful  odor  in  the  Temple  of  Joss,  when 
thrown  upon  the  fire,  sent  forth  a  cloud  of  smoke  that  nearly  drove  us 
from  our  quarters.  At  dusk,  Arnold  returned  without  any  tidings  of 
the  horse,  and  wanted  to  know  what  "  we'd  got  to  eat :"  he  was  wel- 
comed to  our  frugal  meal,  consisting  of  sea-biscuit,  cold  boiled  taro,  and 
water.  We  bundled  ourselves  up  for  the  night,  and  slept  miserably. 
Early  the  next  morning,  I  trudged  off  on  foot  for  Kalepolepb 
to  find  the  deserter,  but  could  glean  no  tidings  concerning  him ; 
I  then  had  recourse  to  offering  five  dollars  reward  for  horse,  sad- 


154  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

die,  and  bridle,  which  sent  three  or  four  native  equestrians  scour- 
ing over  the  plain  in  pursuit.  On  ray  return  to  camp,  when 
about  half  way,  I  found  him  standing  by  the  roadside,  and  well 
secured,  for  the  rope,  in  trailing  behind,  had  caught  under  a  pro- 
jecting root ;  all  was  safe,  except  the  heavy  stamped  leather  that 
covers  the  saddle,  which  was  missing.  It  was  found  upon  the  com- 
mon, nearly  a  month  after,  and  returned  to  Ulupalakua.  During  the 
forenoon,  while  chaining  along,  we  came  to  the  brink  of  a  deep  ra- 
vine, winding  and  cavernous,  and  in  calling  to  each  other,  our  voices 
echoed  and  re-echoed  along  its  rocky  passages.  I  asked  one  of  the 
natives  what  it  meant ;  he  said  it  was  akua,  (a  ghost.)  We  reached 
Kalepolepo  at  noon,  and  were  indebted  to  the  courtesy  of  a  merchant 
of  that  place  for  our  dinner.  On  our  return,  I  saw  the  konoMki 
peeling  the  bark  from  an  ilima  bush,  and  chewing  it.  Upon  in- 
quiry, he  informed  us  that  he  was  troubled  with  the  nahu,  ("gripes  ;") 
and  if  his  manner  of  chewing  was  an  indication  of  his  sensibilities, 
his  pain  must  have  been  intense.  I  was  never  before  aware  that 
this  bark  possessed  carminative  properties. 

Mr.  Torbert  was  at  Koonolu,  and  the  next  day  we  had  the 
claims  of  the  quondam  konohiki  to  adjust  He  had  two  or  three 
patches,  of  from  one  to  half  an  acre,  under  cultivation,  situated  re- 
motely from  each  other,  upon  the  land  of  Koheo,  of  which  we  had 
just  taken  the  dimensions.  As  it  would  spoil  the  appearance  of  an 
estate  to  have  three  or  four  independent  inclosures  scattered  in  its 
midst,  Mr.  Torbert  proposed  giving  him  a  piece  of  land  of  such  di- 
mensions as  to  equal  the  aggregate  areas  of  those  he  claimed.  "No, 
he  would  not  do  that ;  he'd  appeal  to  the  Land  Commission."  It 
will  be  necessary  to  state,  that  at  a  sitting  of  the  Privy  Council,  a 
law  had  been  passed,  granting  to  every  native  in  fee-simple  such 
pieces  or  parcels  of  land  as  he  lived  upon  or  cultivated ;  this 
also  extended  to  deeds  of  purchase,  in  which  was  inserted  "  native 
rights  respected,"  and  hence  arose  the  kuliana  or  "rights"  system, 
in  the  construction  of  which,  broad  license  was  granted,  at  least  so 
it  would  appear  to  a  foreigner  unacquainted  with  the  tenure  of  native 
fiefs.  An  instance  in  question  came  to  my  notice  during  a  sojourn 
in  Lahaina.  A  citizen  of  that  town  had  purchased  a  strip  of  land 
situate  in  the  suburbs,  called  Polanui,  conspicuous  for  its  grove  of 


Technicalities  of  Hawaiian  Law.  155 

cocoarmt-trees.  A  regular  sale  was  made  by  the  chief,  the  ac- 
knowledged owner,  to  the  purchaser,  who,  on  attempting  to  take 
possession,  found  an  obstacle  in  his  way.  This  proved  to  be  an  old 
woman  without  a  shadow  of  pretension  to  real  ownership,  who  con- 
sented to  the  sale,  provided  there  should  be  no  transfer  of  the  cocoa- 
nut  grove.  As  the  remainder  of  the  land  extending  to  the  mountain 
was  barren,  this  grove  constituted  the  principal  object  of  attraction. 
An  investigation  took  place,  and  it  was  proven  that  her  grandfather 
had  built  a  wall  around  the  sprouting  trees  to  protect  them  from 
the  ravages  of  swine,  and  that  the  plaintiff,  when  not  abroad, 
had  resided  there  from  childhood ;  consequently,  the  purchaser 
was  nonsuited.  It  was  sometimes  carried  to  a  ridiculous  extent 
in  Lahaina.  A  boy  could  hardly  take  your  horse  to  browse  by 
the  roadside  without  being  accosted  by  a  venerable  individual  with 
malo  and  staff,  who  intimated  that  a  suspension  of  proceedings 
would  be  desirable,  as  he  had  a  kuliana  on  that  particular  spot, 
whether  public  or  not.  I  do  not  allude  to  these  instances  with  a 
sentiment  of  disrespect  towards  the  Board  of  Land  Commissioners, 
who  would  never  condescend  to  absurdities ;  their  duties  have 
been  both  complex  and  difficult.  The  law  framed  for  the  purpose 
of  securing  to  common  natives  homesteads  which  they  can  call  their 
own  was  humane,  for  it  relieves  them  forever  from  a  state  of  vassal- 
age and  the  feudal  tenure  by  which  they  formerly  held  their 
estates,  and  concedes  to  them  the  rights  and  privileges  of  freemen. 
To  obviate  difficulty,  it  would  be  advisable  for  those  purchasing- 
lands  to  ascertain  definitively  of  what  these  "  native  rights"  consist. 
I  have  never  ascertained  the  result  of  the  ko?whiki's  litigation. 


156  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

"THE  SICK  WIND."— A   WRECKING   PARTY. 

THE  month  of  January  wore  on.  The  azure  skies  became  gradu- 
ally overcast,  and  watery  clouds,  creeping  up  from  the  southwest, 
floated  like  a  gloomy  pall  overhead.  Everything  betokened  a  kona, 
or  southwest  gale,  called  by  the  natives  "makani  mai"  (sick  wind,) 
owing  to  the  cold,  wet  weather  attending  it.  By  the  careless  ex- 
posure of  their  persons  during  these  seasons,  many  of  them  engender 
future  disease. 

Such  were  the  appearances  noticed  one  afternoon  at  our  landing ; 
and  not  wishing  to  encounter  the  bleak  hills  with  a  tempest  in  per- 
spective, I  accepted  the  invitation  of  Bob,  our  storekeeper,  to  remain 
with  him,  instead  of  plodding  up  the  dreary  road  to  Ulupalakua. 

At  midnight  we  were  awakened  by  sounds  of  the  gale ;  the 
storm-spirits  were  abroad,  and  a  tempest  of  wind  and  rain  threatened 
to  tear  the  well-secured  thatch  from  the  rafters,  as  it  howled  with 
fury  around  the  low  stone  walls  of  our  shelter.  The  beach,  a  few 
yards  distant,  was  bounded  by  a  solid  wall,  or  massive  boulders  of 
ancient  lava  ;  and  the  incessant  roaring  of  the  breakers  against  these 
giant  ramparts  was,  like  the  pealing  of  thunder,  in  wild  harmony 
with  the  storm. 

The  morning  broke  gloomily.  Though  the  rain  had  ceased,  tem- 
pestuous clouds  were  hurrying  rapidly  before  the  wind,  enshrouding 
the  mountain  summit  and  the  green  cane-fields  in  their  humid  folds. 
The  once  smiling  canopy  seemed  strangely  contracted  to  a  gloomy, 
concave  vault,  frowning  upon  the  landscape,  and  chilling  every  warm 
feeling  associated  with  it.  In  the  southwestern  horizon,  an  incubus 
of  leaden  clouds  was  lowering  upon  an  ocean  flecked  with  foam, 
where  snowy  crests  danced  upon  its  broad  surface,  until  wave  after 
wave,  rolling  heavily  in,  hurled  themselves  against  the  rocky  barrier, 
to  burst  upward  in  sheets  of  foam  and  spray,  and  fall  in  showers  by 
the  distant  roadside. 

Not  a  native  was  stirring.  As  if  in  anticipation  of  the  storm, 
canoes  had  been  hauled  upon  the  rocks  and  secured,  but  the  wind 
- 


A  Gale,  and  its  Consequences.  157 

was  making  sad  havoc  among  the  loose  thatch  of  some  of  their 
tenements,  We  mustered  around  and  collected  such  dry  fuel  as  we 
could  find  in  the  shed,  and  built  a  fire  in  the  house.  The  tea-kettle 
was  filled,  and  some  sweet  potatoes  thrown  into  the  fire  to  roast ;  and 
with  these,  together  with  a  scanty  ration  of  yesterday's  soup,  we 
made  a  tolerable  breakfast. 

As  soon  as  the  weather  would  permit,  I  started  for  the  plantation. 
The  road  was  slippery  and  often  obstructed  by  deep  gullies,  where 
rain-torrents  had  foamed  the  night  preceding.  Damp  winds  were 
whistling  across  the  bleak  hills  and  among  ghostly  clusters  of 
the  cactus  ;  and  as  I  toiled  up  the  monotonous  ascent,  the  brow 
of  each  successive  hill  seemed  to  bear  the  mocking  impress,  Ex- 
celsior ! 

The  cooper  was  the  first  person  I  encountered  on  my  arrival.  He 
communicated  the  alarming  intelligence  that  the  whole  village  had 
been  destroyed,  and  would  fain  have  me  believe  that  what  I  saw 
was  merely  the  apparition  of  what  had  been.  The  old  grass-house 
occupied  by  him  as  a  workshop  had  been  completely  demolished, 
occasioning  a  serious  disarray  of  his  casks  and  lumber  generally. 
Two  or  three  other  dilapidated  tenements  had  been  blown  away,  and 
the  sides  of  a  few  which  had  started  were  propped  up  by  poles. 
Though  in  some  instances  the  cane  bore  evidence  of  the  furious 
blast,  no  serious  damage  was  done. 

This  gale,  with  abated  violence,  continued  for  several  days,  and 
its  effects  were  observable  throughout  the  leeward  portions  of  the 
group.  In  Lahaina,  a  Californian  trader  dragged  at  her  anchors,  cap- 
sized off  Lanai,  and  every  white  person  on  board  perished,  while  the 
natives  saved  themselves  by  swimming.  Numerous  houses  and  trees 
were  prostrated.  In  one  instance,  a  cocoanut-tree  was  torn  from 
its  roots  and  whirled  over  a  house  in  the  rear  of  which  it  grew.  A 
blast  swept  through  the  eastern  v-alley,  and  that  specimen  of  archi- 
tecture, the  palace,  being  directly  within  the  range  of  these  momo- 
kus,  portions  of  the  roof  and  railing  of  the  verandah  were  torn  away 
As  this  has  been  of  frequent  occurrence,  though  as  often  repaired, 
the  government  have  at  present  concluded  to  let  .^Eolus  do  his  worst, 
for  when  I  visited  it  three  years  afterwards  the  building  remained  in 
statu  quo.  It  was  during  this  gale  that  the  yacht  "  Wanderer,"  com- 


158  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

manded  by  Captain  Boyd,  whose  tragic  fate  at  the  Solomon  Islands 
has  excited  so  much  interest  in  the  minds  of  all,  saved  the  lives  of 
half  a  dozen  natives  who  had  been  drifted  to  sea  in  a  whale- 
boat  schooner.  A  bark,  which  the  evening  previous  had  sailed  from 
Honolulu  for  Lahaina,  was  fifteen  days  in  reaching  its  port  of  des- 
tination. 

A  month  subsequent  to  these  events,  when  the  weather  was  fair, 
but  by  no  means  settled,  our  villagers  were  thrown  into  no  small 
excitement  by  the  appearance  of  a  native  constable,  or  kaiko,  dash- 
ing at  full  speed  along  the  Lahaina  road,  with  Spanish  leggings  and 
a  gaudy  poncho  fluttering  in  the  wind.  He  reined  in  his  steed  at 
one  of  the  mills  and  dismounted.  A  crowd  of  idlers  gathered  around 
to  learn  the  news,  for  Mr.  Torbert  had  been  absent  nearly  two 
weeks,  and  the  state  of  the  weather  would  not  admit  of  the  usual 
labor.  He  brought  the  intelligence  that  a  Californian  schooner  had 
been  capsized  off  Lahaina,  and  every  soul  lost ;  that  she  had  a  large 
quantity  of  specie  on  board,  and  that  the  Governor  had  offered  a 
reward  for  any  information  respecting  her,  or  where  she  might  be 
found.  As  a  clue  to  aid  the  search,  he  further  stated  that  a  few 
evenings  previous  a  native  who  was  out  in  his  canoe  had  discovered 
a  dark  object  like  the  hull  of  a  vessel  floating  past  him,  which 
he  was  afraid  to  board,  conjecturing  it  to  be  an  akua.  Upon  a 
cross-examination,  he  said  it 'was  drifting  down  the  channel  towards 
Kahulawe,  a  barren  island,  opposite  the  southwest  point  of  East 
Maui. 

Here  was  an  antidote  for  ennui ;  for  want  of  better  occupation,  I 
had  just  been  making  an  accurate  survey  of  the  cooper's  taro-patch  in 
the  rear  of  his  house,  which  I  drafted  on  a  large  scale,  indicating  by 
appropriate  hieroglyphics  where  might  be  found  the  largest  growth 
of  the  esculent  vegetable  ;  also,  such  portions  as  had  become  dete- 
riorated by  trespassing  pigs,  and  for  all  of  which  he  professed  eter- 
nal obligation,  while  he  hung  it  up  as  an  ornament  in  his  apart- 
ment. The  foreign  employees  had  busied  themselves  in  various 
ways,  but  chiefly  with  their  homesteads  and  domestic  arrangements. 

Dispatches  were  at  once  sent  out  for  "  Steve,"  who  resided  at  one 
extreme  of  the  plantation,  and  for  "  Long  Jim,"  who  occupied 
Kalihi  at  the  other.  These  soon  arrived,  and  providing  ourselves 


An  Affectionate  Wife.  159 

with  two  or  three  telescopes,  we  ascended  an  eminence  to  recon- 
noitre the  shores  of  Kahulawe.  Every  black  rock  alternately  ap- 
pearing and  disappearing  amid  the  dashing  of  the  surf,  that  bore  a 
supposed  similitude  to  a  schooner's  hull,  was  commented  upon  pro 
and  con,  until  it  was  finally  decided  that  we  should  procure  a  boat 
and  go  in  search  of  it. 

The  cooper  talked  largely  about  salvage  and  general  averages,  and 
insisted  upon  going  ;  though  his  weight  would  have  been  but  a  tri- 
fling encumbrance,  his  rheumatism  could  not  be  other  than  a  serious 
counterpoise  to  his  services,  so  we  promised  him  a  share  of  the  spoil, 
if  he  would  remain  quietly  at  home. 

Five  of  us  started  down  the  mountain,  about  the  middle  of  the 
afternoon,  each  with  his  blankets,  while  we  carried  a  small  quantity 
of  sea-biscuit  in  a  knapsack.  We  made  for  the  landing  direct,  and 
taking  Bob  by  storm,  told  him  we  would  listen  to  no  opposition,  and 
that  he  must  accompany  us  as  soon  as  he  could  get  ready  ;  an  in- 
vitation to  which  he  manifested  ready  compliance,  much  to  the  con- 
sternation of  his  wife,  Pali,  (precipice  !)  At  his  request  she  folded 
a  couple  of  blankets,  and  with  considerable  reluctance  filled  a  small 
calabash  with  nicely  prepared  poi,  which,  together  with  a  bundle  of 
pai  kalo  and  the  sea-biscuit,  was  to  furnish  us  with  supper  and  break- 
fast, for  we  intended  passing  one  night  only  on  the  island.  Dan  en- 
gaged the  services  of  a  stout  young  native  named  Makaae,  (sharp- 
eyes,)  whose  former  residence  on  Kahulawe  qualified  him  to  act  as 
pilot  and  guide,  and  having  hired  a  dilapidated  whale-boat,  our  party 
of  seven  took  its  departure  from  Honuaula. 

As  the  boat  shoved  off,  Mrs.  Pali  ran  out  of  the  house,  shouting, 
"  Able  pan  ko  kaua  alb — ha  .'"  (our  love  has  not  ceased  yet.) 

Able,  pualbke,  (no,  my  rose,)  replied  Bob,  laughing,  and  amid  the 
cheers  of  the  natives  who  had  assembled  to  witness  our  departure,  we 
set  the  sail  to  the  light  breeze  and  slid  smoothly  over  the  quiet  water. 
It  was  evening,  and  there  was  not  a  cloud  in  the  sky  ;  the  stars  shone 
brightly,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  leaky  condition  of  the  boat, 
which  required  incessant  baling,  the  excursion  would  have  been  de- 
lightful. We  skirted  the  southern  edge  of  the  rocky  islet  Molokini, 
which  rose  an  apparently  inaccessible  cliff  in  mid-channel,  and  soon 
after  the  bold  outline  of  Kahulawe  loomed  distinctly  before  us.  By 


1 60  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

Makaoe's  direction  the  boat  was  headed  for  a  small  cove  that  formed 
an  excellent  boat  harbor,  and  which  is  frequently  resorted  to  by  fish- 
ing canoes  ;  as  the  surf  was  but  trifling,  we  shot  in  through  the  nar- 
now  channel  into  still  water,  and  a  moment  after  hauled  the  boat  up 
high  and  dry  upon  the  smooth  sand  beach.  On  either  side  our  posi- 
tion was  bounded  by  projecting  spurs  extending  to  the  sea,  and  ter- 
minating in  abrupt  cliffs,  while  the  level  bottom  intervening  was  but 
limited.  Our  first  care  was  to  provide  a  suitable  place  to  pass  the 
night ;  some  of  us  had  already  begun  to  cast  inquiring  glances  to- 
wards the  lee-side  of  a  large  cactus  which  grew  near  the  shore, 
when  Makaoe,  the  all-provident,  directed  us  to  a  cave  close  by, 
formed  by  shelving  rocks,  and  crowned  by  the  ruined  walls  of  an  old 
heiau,  (heathen  temple,)  frowning  gloomily  in  the  dusk  of  even 
ing.  To  this  we  conveyed  our  baggage  and  provision  ;  after  which 
all  set  to  work  collecting  dry  g'rass  for  our  beds  and  drift-wood  for  a 
fire,  of  which  there  was  an  abundance,  while  Makaoe  disappeared 
with  a  calabash  up  one  of  the  ravines  for  water.  The  bright  flames 
emitted  a  cheerful  warmth,  and  lighted  up  the  dark  rocks,  which  re- 
echoed the  mirth  of  a  convivial  party  indulging  their  appetites  with 
the  vegetable  diet  Mrs.  Pali  had  provided. 

None  of  us  feeling  inclined  to  sleep,  it  was  arranged  that  our 
guide  should  remain  near  the  cave,  to  guard  against  contingencies 
that  might  occur,  while  the  rest  of  us  ascended  one  of  the  ridges 
and  awaited  the  rising  of  the  moon,  to  light  our  ramblings  along 
the  shore.  After  climbing  the  steep  ascent,  we  sat  down  in  the 
coarse  grass  until  the  full  moon,  which  was  already  lighting  up 
the  sky  behind  the  dark  mountains  of  East  Maui,  should  make  its 
appearance.  Mount  Hale.akala  stood  forth  in  bold  relief,  rising 
darkly  from  the  ocean,  with  its  summit  enveloped  in  clouds.  These 
gradually  assumed  a  more  transparent  hue,  until  the  bright  orb  shone 
calmly  forth,  spanning  the  broad  channel  with  its  silver  rays,  and 
shedding  a  mellow  light  over  the  dark  ridges  and  ravines  we  sought 
to  traverse.  These  inequalities  of  the  surface,  like  those  of  the 
other  islands,  radiate  from  the  centre  to  the  sea ;  and  being  of  fre- 
quent occurrence,  and  often  precipitous,  they  are  serious  inconve- 
niences to  travelling.  We  rambled  near  the  cliffs,  where  we  could 
look  down  upon  the  rocks  below,  to  discover  if  there  were  any  signs 


Moonlight  Rambles.  161 


of  a  wreck.  By  some  accident,  Bob  and  I  were  separated  from  the 
party,  and  thinking  we  had  continued  our  jaunt  far  enough  for  that 
evening,  we  again  reclined  upon  the  sweet-scented  grass,  while  he 
entertained  me  with  some  of  his  adventures  in  the  South  Seas,  for 
he  had  been  a  great  rover.  Presently  we  saw  a  human  figure  creep- 
ing up  the  side  of  the  ravine  towards  us.  Neither  of  us  could  con- 
jecture it  to  be  other  than  the  troubled  ghost  of  some  departed  hero, 
for  we  believed  the  island  to  be  uninhabited.  Bob  sprang  to  his 
feet,  and  hailed  "  Owai  la?"  (who's  there.) 

"  Oau  no  /"  (nobody  but  me  !)  It  was  Makaoe,  who,  afraid  to  re- 
main among  the  akuas,  had  joined  us  to  avoid  the  unpleasant  reflec- 
tions of  solitude. 


CHAPTER    XV. 

THE    BIVOUAC,    AND    RETURN. 

INSTEAD  of  returning  by  the  route  we  had  come,  it  was  arranged 
that  we  should  pick  our  way  along  the  rocky  shore  beneath  the  cliffs ; 
and  as  a  hint  for  our  companions  to  do  the  same,  we  set  fire  to  the 
coarse  grass,  which  would  prevent  their  retrograding  by  the  old 
path,  and  compel  them  either  to  ascend  higher  up  the  mountain,  or, 
like  ourselves,  follow  the  shore.  Our  party  discovered  the  main 
boom  of  a  schooner  reposing  quietly  upon  the  rocks,  where  it  had 
been  thrown  by  the  waves  ;  also  a  "mall  "  hatch,"  and  -two  canoe 
paddles,  which  had  drifted  upon  these  barren  shores.  The  boom, 
a  long,  solid  spar,  remained  where  we  found  it,  but  the  others  were 
carried  to  our  camp  as  trophies  of  success.  Jack  Burns  and  his 
squad  soon  returned,  bearing  between  them  the  top-gallant  yard  of  a 
ship,  with  its  sail,  both  in  .a  dilapidated  state,  occasioned  by  their 
surging  against  the  rocks.  There  was  a  little' wrangling  about  who 
should  occupy  the  centre  of  the  cave,  but  this  was  settled  by  Bob, 
who  took  up  a  squatter's  claim,  and  thrust  his  head  under  a  shelving 


162  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

rock,  forming  an  aperture  that  extended  indefinitely  towards  the 
interior.  Soon  after,  when  we  were  all  snugly  wrapped  in  our 
blankets,  he  withdrew,  alleging  there  was  "  a  strong  graveyard 
smell,"  and  finally  took  up  his  quarters  in  the  open  air. 

The  morning  dawned  brightly ;  and  although  it  was  evident  we 
should  discover  no  trace  of  the  schooner,  it  was  mutually  determined 
that  we  should  make  ourselves  more  intimately  acquainted  with 
Kahulawe.  For  this  purpose,  we  divided  ourselves  into  two  par- 
ties :  Steve,  Long  Jim,  and  Jack  Burns,  to  constitute  the  first,  and 
to  take  the  northern  route  ;  while  it  was  arranged  that  Bob  Wal- 
dron  and  I,  together  with  Makaoe,  should  bear  away  towards  the 
south,  both  parties  to  advance  until  they  met,  when  all  should  return 
across  the  island  to  the  point  of  starting.  The  theory  in  itself  was 
plausible,  but  would  not  bear  reducing  to  practice.  We  ate  the  poi 
at  once,  preliminary  to  making  an  equal  distribution  of  the  remain- 
ing fragments  of  boiled  taro  and  sea-biscuit,  a  task  that  was  per- 
formed by  Bob,  who  had  reference  to  party  interests.  Then  strap- 
ping the  knapsack  on  Makaoe's  shoulders,  we  started  away  in 
opposite  directions. 

The  air  was  charming ;  a  light  sea-breeze  was  fanning  across  the 
hills,  where  the  shrill  cries  of  the  plover,  as  they  winged  their  way 
to  the  more  elevated  regions,  and  the  bleating  of  the  wild  goats, 
alone  awoke  the  solitude.  We  strolled  leisurely  along  the  brow  of 
the  cliffs,  occasionally  looking  over  to  reconnoitre,  or,  by  our  united 
efforts,  starting  a  huge  crag  from  its  insecure  resting-place,  to 
watch  it  as  it  dashed  into  the  foaming  caldron  beneath.  Some- 
times we  would  launch  a  massive  boulder  down  the  steep  side  of  a 
ravine,  which,  like  an  avalanche,  went  leaping  and  bounding,  car- 
rying all  before  it,  until  dashed  into  fragments  by  collision  with 
the  rocks  below.  Waldron  was  afflicted  with  a  mania  for  chasing 
goats,  and  during  this  pastoral  occupation,  he  described  several  sum- 
mersets, to  the  great  diversion  of  Makaoe.  His  efforts  were  ulti- 
matety  rewarded  by  the  capture  of  two  beautiful  kids,  whose  tiny 
limbs  were  too  weak  to  follow  the  bold  leaps  of  the  dam  from  rock 
to  rock,  who,  deserted  by  the  flock,  was  looking  down  from  a  craggy 
eminence  and  bleating  piteously  for  her  young.  Dan  suggested 
taking  them  both  to  his  wife,  who  had  frequently  manifested  a  fond- 


A  Desolate  Island.  163 


ness  for  pets,  but  we  fortunately  argued  him  out  of  it,  for  they  could 
not  have  survived  the  disastrous  return.  We  gave  them  their  liberty, 
and  had  soon  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  mother  skip  down  the  rocks 
to  join  them.  Makaoe  very  sagely  remarked  to  Waldron,  that  if  he 
would  only  catch  the  mother,  we  could  all  have  some  milk. 

The  difficulties  of  the  excursion  had  been  greatly  underrated  ;  the 
ravines  were  so  steep,  and  of  such  frequent  recurrence,  that  our  prog- 
ress had  been  greatly  retarded.  It  was  noon  before  we  had  fairly 
reached  the  southern  portion  of  the  island,  or  little  more  than  half 
the  distance  we  proposed  accomplishing  by  that  time.  The  general 
aspect  of  the  land  was  desolate  in  the  extreme  ;  the  reddish,  sterile 
soil  being  unrelieved  by  either  tree  or  shrub,  and  everything  seemed 
parched  up  by  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun.  There  was  neither 
stream  nor  spring  upon  the  island  ;  our  thirst  was  quenched  at  the 
pools  of  rain-water,  where  rocky  basins  had  furnished  natural  reser- 
voirs. We  here  halted  for  a  consultation,  whether  to  cross  the 
mountain  arid  reach  our  bivouac,  or  to  continue  on  until  dark,  when, 
at  the  rate  we  had  travelled,  we  would  be  exactly  opposite  the  point 
of  starting.  The  former  was  decided  upon,  though  mentally  up- 
braiding ourselves  with  neglect  of  duty  towards  our  companions. 
We  did  not  attain  the  greatest  elevation  of  the  island,  which  pre- 
sented the  leading  features  of  the  portion  we  had  traversed  ;  that  is, 
"  stale  and  unprofitable."  At  one  place  was  passed  what  had  once 
been  a  grove  of  akokoa  trees,  but  nothing  now  remained  save  an  area 
covered  with  withered  trunks  and  branches,  bleached  as  white  as 
skeletons  in  the  sun,  the  bark  having  been  stripped  from  them  by  the 
goats.  We  saw  akokoa  and  a  few  shrubs  growing  farther  up  the 
mountain,  and  these,  together  with  a  few  stunted  wiliwili  trees, 
were  the  only  living  representatives  of  the  vegetable  kingdom  worth 
noticing. 

In  passing  through  a  small  clump  of  akokoa  shrubbery  which  lay 
in  our  route,  Waldron  called  my  attention  to  the  condition  of  a  pair 
of  black  "  doeskins"  I  wore  on  that  occasion.  They  were  com- 
pletely ruined  by  the  white  milky  substance  that  had  exuded  from  the 
tender  branches  we  had  broken  in  forcing  our  way  through  ;  though 
white  as  milk,  it  was  of  a  glutinous  nature,  and  from  it  the  natives 
manufacture  bird-lime. 


164  Reef -Roving  s  in  the  South  Seas. 

Tired  and  hungry,  we  reached  our  quarters  about  the  middle  of 
the  afternoon,  and  found  everything  as  we  had  left  it.  The  limited 
stock  of  provision  had  been  completely  exhausted  ;  and  our  only 
resource  for  procuring  a  new  supply  was  to  wade  out  upon  the  coral 
reef  and  gather  biche  de  mer,  or  trepang,  and  such  shell-fish  as  the 
echinus,  or  sea-egg,  and  limpets.  The  latter  .roasted  were  palatable, 
but  the  trepang  I  could  make  nothing  of;  though  soaked  and  broiled 
upon  the  embers,  it  still  continued  as  tough  as  sole-leather,  and  I  was 
compelled  to  discard  an  article  of  diet  that  would  have  caused  a 
Celestial's  eyes  to  sparkle  with  delight.  Waldron  was  afflicted  with 
a  most  immoderate  appetite,  and  the  whole  catalogue  of  mollusca  dis- 
appeared from  his  hands  with  marvellous  rapidity ;  the  "  lily 
pups,"  as  he  termed  the  limpets,  were  swallowed  raw  as  he  took 
them  from  the  rocks.  Makaoe,  who  shunned  the  biche  de  mer  as  an 
Israelite  would  pork,  contemplated  with  astonishment  the  facility 
with  which  the  slimy  strips,  contorted  by  heat,  underwent  the  mas- 
ticating process,  preparatory  to  digestion.  At  sundown,  the  appe- 
tite of  this  "  genius  of  famine"  was  in  some  degree  appeased,  and 
we  all  went  out  to  collect  a  pile  of  drift-wood  for  the  evening  ;  after 
gossiping  until  sleepy,  we  retired  for  the  night. 

The  morning  returned,  but  not  the  missing  party,  and  numer- 
ous were  the  conjectures  as  to  what  had  befallen  them.  Makaoe 
thought  they  might  have  fallen  over  a  precipice  during  the  night, 
but  Waldron  and  I  concluded  they  were  too  wise  to  grope  about 
pitfalls  in  the  dark.  After  waiting  until  eight  o'clock,  with  no 
tidings  from  them,  I  proposed  that  we  should  ascend  the  mountain, 
with  Makaoe  for  our  guide,  to  see  whether  they  had  strayed  in 
that  direction  ;  accordingly,  we  all  started  off,  following  up  a  ravine, 
until  a  dividing  ridge  formed  a  better  path.  About  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  the  camp,  Waldron  gave  out  and  returned,  and  soon  after 
Makaoe  said  something  about  eha  kuu  wawqi,  (sore  feet,)  so  we  dis- 
missed him,  while  Bob  and  I  plodded  on  together.  Our  path  soon 
led  through  a  broad  valley  of  considerable  extent,  and  down  a  cliff 
that  formed  its  lower  bound,  water  was  trickling  as  it  oozed  from 
the  ground  above,  which  had  been  thoroughly  saturated  by  the  recent 
rains.  We  continued  up  the  valley,  the  soil  of  which  was  tolerably 
fertile ;  it  bore  traces  of  having  once  been  extensively  cultivated  with 


A  Stroll  across  the  Hills.  165 

sweet  potatoes,  and  here  we  beheld  fresh  traces  of  wild  hogs  ;  it 
was  by  far  the  pleasantest  portion  of  the  island  we  had  seen.  My 
shoes  had  by  this  time  been  torn  from  my  feet,  so  that  I  was  com- 
pelled to  lash  the  soles  on  (like  sandals)  with  strong  vines,  which 
grew  here  in  abundance.  Bob,  too,  became  dissatisfied,  and  wished 
to  return,  but  I  begged  him  to  hold  out  a  little  longer,  until  we  could 
see  the  ocean  on  the  other  side  ;  though  we  had  both  given  up  the 
object  of  our  search,  he  finally  consented,  and  half  an  hour  after- 
wards, we  saw  the  continuation  of  the  broad  Pacific,  having  travelled 
about  four  miles  from  our  camp.  We  did  not  reach  the  highest 
point,  but  even  here  were  seen  remains  of  an  extinct  crater,  perhaps 
half  a  mile  in  diameter,  circular  in  form,  and  of  shallow  depth ;  it 
seemed  like  a  basin  formed  by  the  sinking  of  the  earth,  without  dis- 
turbing the  growth  of  vegetation  that  covered  it.  On  our  return,  we 
set  fire  to  the  dry  grass,  which,  easily  igniting,  was  consumed  with 
great  rapidity,  for  the  wind  by  this  time  was  blowing  freshly  ;  it 
continued  to  burn  for  nearly  a  week,  and  served  as  a  beacon  for  ves- 
sels coming  from  Honolulu. 

On  our  arrival  in  camp,  we  found  the  lost  ones  awaiting  our  re- 
turn, laughing  at  us  for  our  pains,  while  Waldron  was  comforting 
himself  with  dried  fish  and  sweet  potatoes.  It  appears  that  about 
noon  they  discovered  two  fishing  huts,  tenanted,  as  they  said,  by  old 
folks;  but  whether  such  was  the  case  or  not,  they  found  sufficient  en- 
tertainment to  detain  them  there  for  the  remainder  of  the  day  and  the 
following  night.  They  brought  with  them  a  small  quantity  of  dried 
fish,  also  a  few  roasted  sweet  potatoes,  the  only  vegetable  cultivated 
on  this  island.  It  was  now  about  eleven  o'clock  in  the  forenoon, 
and  it  was  put  to  vote  whether  we  should  venture  to  sea,  or  re- 
main where  we  were  until  the  wind  should  somewhat  abate,  for  the 
channel  was  very  rough. 

It  was  carried  in  the  affirmative  by  a  majority  of  one ;  and  col- 
lecting our  equipage,  we  deposited  it  in  the  boat,  which  cracked 
ominously  as  we  launched  it  over  the  spar  into  the  water. 

It  was  only  after  we  had  shot  out  beyond  the  headland  of  the  cove 
that  we  experienced  the  force  of  the  wind,  which  swept  violently 
through  the  passage.  These  inter-island  channels  during  a  storm  are 
more  dangerous  to  boats  than  the  open  sea,  for  instead  of  the  long, 


166  Eeef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

heavy  swell  of  the  ocean,  there  is  a  short  sea  that  is  almost  continu- 
ally "  combing,"  threatening  to  swamp  any  open  boat.  It  was  precisely 
such  a  sea  as  this  that  we  had  to  encounter ;  and  five  minutes  after 
leaving  the  shore,  I  would  have  forfeited  any  visions  of  prospective 
enjoyment  to  have  been  snugly  moored  again  in  the  cove.  But  we 
had  drifted  far  to  leeward  of  it,  and  beyond,  there  was  nothing  but  a 
rock-bound  coast,  against  which  the  waves  were  beating  furiously. 
The  sea  was  so  heavy  that  we  could  not  head  the  boat  for  Maui,  but 
were  obliged  to  keep  away  before  the  wind  towards  Lanai  in  an 
opposite  direction,  and  the  prospect  began  to  look  alarming.  The 
wind  also  blew  so  strongly  that  we  set  the  sail  without  the  sprit ; 
I  tended  "  sheet,"  which  I  gave  a  turn  round  the  after  "  thawt,"  and 
held  the  end  ready  to  slacken  away  in  case  of  emergency.  Jack 
Burns  was  at  the  steering  oar,  and  a  better  fellow  for  that  all-impor- 
tant post  could  not  have  been  selected  ;  Long  Jim  and  Waldron  sat 
on  either  side  of  the  mast ;  Bob  and  Makaoe  baled  incessantly, 
while  Steve  was  lying  prostrate  against  the  stern  sheets,  deathly  sea- 
sick. Had  I  felt  the  least  inclination  to  nausea,  the  sight  of  those 
wild  waves  roaring  around  us  would  have  dispelled  the  sensation. 
The  boat  would  shoot  upon  the  crest  of  a  wave,  then  suddenly  plunge 
into  the  trough  below,  but  the  careful  eye  of  Burns  watched  every 
sea,  as  with  mathematical  precision  it  struck  us  at  right  angles 
with  the  stern.  Once  a  wave  broke  amidships,  completely  cover- 
ing Waldron,  besides  adding  greatly  to  the  water  that  had  already 
found  its  way  through  the  seams  of  the  boat.  Presently  a  sea 
raised  us  high  on  its  summit,  then  suddenly  receding,  the  bow  fell 
with  such  violence  upon  the  water  that  the  two  boat-carpenters,  Bob 
and  Waldron,  expressed  their  belief  that  the  "  coffin"  would  be 
"  stoven"  by  a  similar  occurrence.  Once  more  it  fell,  but  with  less  vio- 
lence, until  the  third  time,  it  descended  with  an  appalling  crash,  and 
the  flood  that  rolled  aft  explained  too  well  the  nature  of  the  accident. 
All  crowded  into  the  stern  of  the  boat,  and  at  that  moment  I  believed 
we  were  going  down  at  once.  The  two  carpenters  quickly  went 
forward  to  ascertain  the  extent  of  the  accident,  while  I  gave  the 
sheet  to  the  winds.  Calabashes  were  broken,  and  every  person  who 
could,  commenced  baling.  The  five  minutes  that  followed  were  the 
most  painful  I  ever  experienced  before  or  since.  It  was  playing  the 


Perils  of  Reef -Roving.  167 

game  of  life  and  death,  and  our  excitement  was  intense  as  we 
watched  the  result  of  our  efforts,  seeing  whether  we  could  master 
the  enemy  that  was  gaining  upon  us  with  rapid  stride.  The  native 
had  stripped  as  soon  as  the  accident  occurred,  to  buffet  the  waves; 
and  although  a  most  expert  swimmer  and  diver,  I  doubt  whether  he 
could  have  survived  long  amid  those  seas.  The  wind  blew  in  squalls, 
and  so  violently  that  we  could  not  hear  each  other's  voices  from 
opposite  extremities  of  the  boat.  Presently  Bob  returned,  and  re- 
ported that  the  "  garboard  streak,"  or  lower  plank  that  attaches 
to  the  kelson,  was  split  from  the  bow  to  "  amidships,"  and  that  at 
each  plunge  it  opened  an  inch  forward ;  that  the  bow  beams  had 
started,  and  he  had  left  Waldron  to  hold  them  together.  At  his 
suggestion,  and  being  the  lightest,  I  stood  upon  the  gunwale,  and 
reaching  as  high  as  I  could,  with  a  sheath-knife,  cut  the  stay  of  the 
mast ;  arid  taking  this  and  a  blanket,  I  went  into  the  bow  of  the 
boat,  endeavoring  to  pass  the  blanket  under  and  secure  it  by  the 
rope.  This  required  many  efforts,  for  I  could  only  work  as  the  boat 
rose  on  a  sea  ;  at  each  downward  plunge  I  was  compelled  to  hold 
fast,  for  the  impetus  was  sufficient  to  throw  me  headlong;  as  it 
was,  my  head  and  arms  were  frequently*  under  water.  After  con- 
siderable labor,  I  accomplished  the  task,  and  returned  to  baling, 
leaving  Waldron  lying  at  full  length  and  holding  the  beams  together 
with  his  hands,  in  which  position,  half  immersed,  he  remained  for 
nearly  an  hour. 

To  make  a  long  story  short,  after  two  hours'  suspense,  we  were 
once  more  in  comparatively  still  water,  between  Molokirii  and  Maui ; 
and  getting  out  our  oars,  we  laughed  at  the  danger  we  had  under- 
gone, as  we  swept  slowly  in  towards  the  rocky  shore,  where  a  num- 
ber of  natives  were  assembled  to  witness  our  arrival.  When  within 
a  few  yards  of  the  beach,  the  steering  strap  parted,  (a  miracle  that 
it  had  not  happened  before !)  and  as  we  had  unshipped  our  oars,  the 
boat  was  unmanageable  ;  accordingly,  we  jumped  into  the  water, 
waist-deep,  and  held  it,  to  avoid  collision  with  the  rocks.  What  the 
akbkoa  bushes  had  ruined  in  appearance,  my  exertions  in  the  boat 
had  rendered  useless  for  service,  and  I  preferred  remaining  in  the 
water  to  running  the  gauntlet  through  a  bevy  of  females,  until  one 
of  them,  observing  my  discomfiture,  kindly  loaned  me  a  shawl  to 


168  Reef-covings  in  the  South  Seas. 

reconcile  any  deficiencies  that  might  exist  between  garments  and 
their  duty. 

They  had  watched  us  with  glasses  from  the  plantation,  and  when 
the  sail  disappeared  they  gave  us  up  for  lost.  Our  troubles  were 
forgotten  while  indulging  in  a  warm  supper  provided  by  Mrs.  Pali, 
who  looked  commiseratingly  upon  her  husband  as  she  said,  "  Mai 
make  oe"  (you  were  most  dead.)  The  experiences  of  that  day  fur- 
nished a  salutary  lesson  to  us  all,  never  to  go  wrecking  without  a 
conveyance  suited  to  the  emergency,  lest  the  wreckers  become  the 
wrecked. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

CAVERNS— MOUNTAIN  AND  SUBMARINE. 

THERE  is  a  natural  curiosity  two  miles  south  of  Ulupalakua,  which, 
though  limited  in  extent,  is  worth  the  attention  of  tourists.  It  is  a 
cavern  about  half  a  mile  in  length  and  of  limited  breadth,  probably 
formed  by  the  cooling  of  the  outer  edges  and  upper  surface  of  the 
lava,  while  that  beneath  rolled  out  in  a  fluid  state,  and  this  at  a 
period  beyond  tradition,  when  the  angry  goddess  Pele,  from  her 
ancient  throne,  had  poured  forth  the  vials  of  her  wrath  to  desolate 
the  fields  of  the  superstitious  Hawaiians. 

I  forget  the  occasion,  but  it  was  a  holiday,  and  as  the  cave  was 
said  to  be  a  famous  pigeon-roost,  some  half  dozen  of  us,  with  our 
fowling-pieces,  made  up  a  party  for  a  hunting  excursion.  Mrs.  Pali 
and  Mrs.  Burns  accompanied  their  husbands,  to  visit  acquaintances 
residing  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  cavern.  The  weather  was 
unexceptionably  fine.  After  leaving  the  cane-fields,  we  came  upon 
the  homesteads  of  the  natives — grass-houses,  with  their  groves  of 
banana-trees  and  small  cultivations  of  mountain  taro.  This  portion 
of  the  estate  is  bounded  by  the  premises  of  Steve,  consisting  of  a 
substantial  grass-house  and  its  appertaining  outbuildings  ;  near  by 
was  a  walled  inclosure  of  small  irregular  blocks  of  lava,  which 


A  Holiday  Ramble.  169 


abound  in  this  vicinity,  containing  a  number  of  porkers  ;  and  the 
whole  was  almost  surrounded  by  a  grove  of  banana-trees.  It  re- 
quired no  strenuous  arguments  to  prevail  upon  its  proprietor  to  shoul- 
der his  gun  and  accompany  us.  The  two  girls  added  their  entreaties, 
and  Mrs.  Chapman  slipped  on  one  of  her  best  holokus  (dresses)  and 
joined  her  companions.  We  led  the  van,  and  the  matrons  and  half 
a  dozen  boys  brought  up  the  rear. 

The  appearance  of  the  country  as  we  advanced  was  more  rugged, 
and  the  travelling  exceedingly  difficult ;  the  ancient  lava  being  some- 
what decomposed,  its  surface  was  covered  with  a  light  but  rich  soil, 
hidden  in  its  turn  by  thick  bushes  and  creeping  vines,  so  that  out  of 
the  narrow  trail  that  had  been  worn,  it  would  be  a  fatiguing  task  to 
pick  one's  way  over  the  sharp  stones  that  covered  the  surface ;  as 
it  was,  our  path  was  tedious,  arid  we  were  compelled  to  advance  in 
single  file.  With  the  exception  of  here  and  there  a  shady  kukui, 
there  were  no  trees,  though  the  ground  was  thickly  covered  with 
bushes.  We  lost  sight  of  the  plantation  by  intervening  hills,  and  for 
miles  the  eye  wandered  over  a  solitary  tract  to  the  sea-shore,  sel- 
dom relieved  by  the  lonely  hut  of  the  native.  There  were  no 
streams,  no  groves,  not  even  a  warbler  to  enliven  the  scene  ;  a  broad 
black  belt  of  scoria  lay  like  the  pall  of  desolation  upon  the  south- 
western shore.  These  hills  and  valleys  had  once  been  cultivated, 
and  numerous  habitations  dotted  the  landscape,  but  the  events  of 
Jialf  a  century  have  left  only  the  relics  of  a  once  numerous  people  ; 
frequently  we  stumbled  against  low  walls  rising  in  terraces  upon  the 
hillside,  but  now  overgrown  with  creeping  plants. 

After  an  hour's  walk,  a  shout  from  some  of  our  party  in  advance 
announced,  that  the  cave  had  been  reached.  We  stood  on  the  brink 
of  a  circular  pit,  as  nearly  as  I  can  recollect  about  fifty  feet  in  depth, 
and  the  same  extent  in  diameter  ;  its  walls  were  precipitous  and 
rocky,  often  perforated  with  deep  holes  ;  the  bottom  was  covered 
with  vegetation,  and  here  were  growing  several  large  kukui  trees. 
The  entrance  to  the  cavern  was  by  a  fissure  in  the  rock  on  the 
markdi,  or  sea-side. 

Our  guns  being  ready  as  we  approached,  the  solitudes  re-echoed 
the  bang,  bang,  that  was  heard  as  the  pigeons  rose  in  the  air,  and 
half  a  dozen  fell  at  the  first  discharge.  Steve,  who  professed  to  be 


170  Reef -Roving s  in  the  South  Seas. 

thoroughly  acquainted  with  their  habits,  said  we  would  have  abun- 
dance of  leisure  to  explore  the  cave  and  the  surrounding  country,  if 
so  disposed,  for  the  pigeons  would  not  return  again  until  afternoon. 
Accordingly,  we  all  descended  by  a  narrow  path  down  the  face  of 
the  rock,  and  at  the  entrance  found  torches,  composed  of  dry 
bushes  and  stout  weeds,  that  had  been  prepared  by  natives  who  re- 
sort to  this  cavern  for  water.  These  we  unceremoniously  appro- 
priated. Those  of  our  party  acquainted  with  the  locality  took  pre- 
cedence, and  we  commenced  the  descent  through  the  aperture  on 
our  hands  and  knees,  and  soon  emerged  into  a  chamber  of  pitchy 
darkness.  The  glare  of  our  torches  flashed  over  a  broad  chamber, 
perhaps  fifteen  feet  in  height ;  its  sides  were  visible,  but  the  lower 
extremity  was  buried  in  .gloom.  The  outer  edge  of  the  lava  having 
cooled  first,  the  liquid  mass,  in  its  passage  through,  had  sometimes 
adhered  to  the  compact  portions,  and  congealed  in  grotesque  shapes : 
from  the  arched  roof  that  rose  over  us  like  a  dome,  dark  masses 
were  pendent,  tapering  gradually  from  their  bases  like  the  stalactites 
of  limestone  caverns.  The  presence  of  the  glittering  spar  existing 
in  those  concretions  was  wanting,  to  throw  out  coruscations  by  torch- 
light, which  here  only  brought  forth  in  bold  relief  the  more  promi- 
nent masses,  while  others  were  lost  amid  the  deep  solitude.  The 
floor  was  covered  with  fragments  of  lava,  and  in  one  place  was  a 
small  pool  of  pure  water  that  had  percolated  by  drops  through  the 
rocks  above  ;  this  aflbrded  a  display  of  native  economy,  for  the  ele- 
ment being  a  rarity  in  this  region,  the  cavern  is  a  natural  reservoir 
for  those  residing  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  Light  wicker  frames 
had  been  constructed  and  placed  beneath  the  dropping  water  ;  over 
these  were  laid  banana  leaves,  having  a  convenient  slope,  and 
which  served  as  conduits  for  the  liquid  that  was  received  in  large 
calabashes,  placed  at  the  lower  extremity,  and  which  we  found  filled 
with  pure  cold  water. 

This  ancient  repository  for  the  dead  had  perhaps  never  re-echoed 
the  mirthful  voices  of  so  merry  a  party  as  now  explored  its  gloomy 
arches  and  dark  recesses  ;  the  children,  laughing  and  shouting,  led 
the  way  with  the  torches,  often  pausing  to  light  the  path  for  others 
whenever  they  reached  a  dangerous  pitfall.  Once  the  vault  seemed 
contracted  to  a  narrow  tunnel ;  emerging  from  which,  we  entered  a 


Descent  into  a  Cavern.  171 

spacious  chamber,  whose  dome  was  too  lofty  to  be  illumined  by  the 
dim  light  of  our  torches.  Here  I  noticed  several  small  heaps  of 
broken  lava  that  had  been  piled  up  by  the  natives,  but  I  know  not  for 
what  purpose.  Bob  suggested  extinguishing  all  the  torches,  to 
which  we  consented,  and  taking  them  from  the  hands  of  their  bear- 
ers, he  trampled  upon  the  ignited  portions,  to  the  consternation  of 
the  women  and  children,  who,  with  true  Hawaiian  superstition,  were 
afraid  of  the  akuas  (ghosts)  of  deceased  progenitors  that  haunted  the 
apartment.  The  darkness  was  painfully  profound,  and  none  of  us 
ventured  from  our  position  ;  having  a  moment  to  reflect,  we  found 
ourselves  covered  with  a  cold  perspiration,  consequent  upon  exertion 
in  the  confined  and  chilling  atmosphere.  After  listening  to  the  prot- 
estations of  the  females  against  such  proceedings,  Bob  drew  a  box 
of  matches  from  his  pocket,  and  relighted  the  torches. 

Nearly  an  hour  had  been  passed  in  this  dismal  vault,  when  we 
crept  through  the  aperture,  and  emerged  once  more  into  daylight. 
Four  of  our  party  concealed  themselves  beneath  trees  to  await  the 
return  of  the  pigeons  in  the  afternoon,  while  two  or  three  of  us,  for 
whom  a  tramp  among  the  hills  possessed  greater  attractions  than 
tender  joints,  shouldered  our  guns  and  marched  off.  The  females 
proceeded  to  pay  their  morning  visits  to  acquaintances,  of  which 
there  were  about  a  dozen  families  in  the  neighborhood.  During 
our  ramble,  we  approached  a  house,  half  hidden  by  a  clump  of. 
-  kukui  trees ;  and  not  far  off,  heard  a  continued  clicking  sound, 
which  Bob  informed  me  was  some  one  beating  kdpa,  or  native 
cloth,  and  soon  after,  seated  beneath  a  low  natural  arch,  admirably 
adapted  for  the  purpose,  we  saw  a  septuagenarian  engaged  at  this 
almost  obsolete  occupation.  She  relaxed  her  wrinkled  features  into 
something  like  a  smile  as  she  welcomed  us  with  a  half-stifled  aloha  ; 
but  soon  after,  replacing  the  pulpy  mass  upon  the  dry  log,  she  took 
up  her  square  wooden  beater,  aud  the  monotonous  sound  of  click, 
click,  click,  in  rapid  succession,  awoke  the  solitude. 

Farther  up  the  mountain,  we  discovered  the  ruins  of  an  old  hciaii, 
or  temple,  almost  overgrown  with  young  trees  and  creeping  vines. 
All  that  now  remained  of  it  were  two  low  compactly-built  walls  run- 
ning at  right  angles  with  each  other.  A  commanding  site  had  been 
chosen  by  the  priests  for  its  erection,  where  they  could  celebrate 


172  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

their  orgies  amid  the  sublimities  of  nature.  In  front  was  the  broad 
extent  of  landscape,  diversified  by  hill,  valley,  and  scattered  groves, 
bounded  by  the  sea-shore  ;  on  the  right,  half  concealed  by  project- 
ing ridges,  loomed  the  barren  island  of  Kahulawe,  and  on  the  left, 
the  snow-clad  summits  of  Mauna  Loa  and  Mauna  Kea  rose  in 
grandeur  above  the  clouds.  In  the  rear  was  an  almost  impenetrable 
forest. 

During  the  afternoon  we  returned  to  our  companions  at  the  cave, 
and  learned  that  their  patience  had  been  but  poorly  rewarded,  and 
assembling  the  stragglers,  we  made  our  way  towards  home.  The 
pigeons  spoken  of  are  not  indigenous  to  Hawaii.  They  were  'ori- 
ginally carried  there,  and  reared  as  are  doves  at  home,  of  which  they 
are  the  same  species.  Many  of  them  have  become  wild,  and  brood 
their  young  in  caves  or  perforated  cliffs.  The  food  found  in  their 
crops  is  usually  the  seed  of  the  broom-corn,  which  grows  wild  upon 
the  mountains.  Along  the  lowlands  and  upon  the  broad  common  that 
unites  East  with  West  Maui,  plover  are  abundant,  but  exceedingly 
shy.  They  are  called  by  the  natives  korea,  from  the  peculiar  sound 
they  emit  when  flying.  The  higher  class  of  game  consists  of  wild- 
ducks  that  congregate  around  pools  in  uninhabited  districts,  and 
among  swampy  tracts  or  taro-patches.  Turkeys  have  also  strayed 
abroad,  and  become  as  shy  as  their  species  in  our  western  forests, 
and  a  long  range  is  required  to  reach  them.  They  are  usually  hunted 
on  horseback.  In  the  forests  wild  hogs  are  found,  some  of  them 
formidable  fellows  ;  but  the  inequalities  of  the  land  and  the  dense 
growth  of  underwood  prevent  the  pursuit  of  them  by  sportsmen. 

I  was  much  interested  by  a  visit  made  one  day  in  company  with 
Mr.  Torbert  to  some  ancient  wells  situated  in  the  midst  of  the  moun- 
tain forest.  His  object  was  to  ascertain  the  exact  distance  from  the 
water  to  his  house,  with  a  view  of  laying  at  some  future  period  con- 
duits for  its  transmission  ;  and  for  this  purpose  we  carried  compass 
and  chain.  The  distance,  I  think,  was  a  mile  and  a  half  in  a 
straight  line.  We  found  a  circuitous  path  leading  to  them  ;  and 
having  ascended  about  two  miles,  emerged  to  an  opening  in  the 
forest,  where  the  mountain  at  this  point  seemed  to  have  formed  a 
shallow  basin,  unobstructed  by  trees,  and  perhaps  half  a  mile  in  cir- 
cumference. The  bottom  was  covered  with  coarse  grasses,  and  the 


Relics  of  the  Olden  Time.  173 

ferns  that  everywhere  grew  in  rank  luxuriance  were  frequently  cling- 
ing in  parasitic  clusters  around  moss-covered  trunks,  and  nourished 
by  the  humid  atmosphere.  In  one  or  two  instances,  these  completely 
obliterated  all  traces  of  excavation,  and  in  descending  to  examine 
the  wells,  we  were  compelled  to  proceed  carefully,  feeling  our  way 
with  poles,  to  avoid  being  ensnared.  These  reservoirs,  perhaps 
twenty  in  number*  were  scattered  about  the  basin,  and  nearly  all  of 
them  contained  pure  water.  There  is  no  authentic  account  of  their 
having  been  made,  or  resorted  to,  subsequent  to  the  discovery  of  the 
islands  by  Captain  Cook,  and  this,  together  with  other  circumstances, 
would  indicate  that  the  population  was  on  the  wane  prior  to  his  arrival. 
As  the  various  lands  extending  from  the  sea-shore  converge  towards 
the  mountain's  summit,  it  is  probable  that  each  district  had  its  own 
wells,  and  that  they  were  visited  by  their  respective  proprietors. 
Mr.  Torbert  proposed  making  an  extensive  excavation,  thus  uniting 
all  the  wells  into  one  reservoir ;  as  they  are  never  known  to  be  dry, 
the  plan  is  a  good  one,  and  might  be  adopted  with  comparatively 
trifling  expense.  It  unfortunately  happens  that  the  leeward  portion 
of  these  islands  is  sadly  destitute  of  water,  but  nature  has  in  some 
respects  compensated  for  this  deficiency  by  the  heavy  dews ; 
among  the  streams  and  valleys  of  the  lowlands  more  thrifty  and 
well-conditioned  cattle  cannot  be  seen  than  those  whose  only  moisture 
is  obtained  from  the  grass  upon  the  mountains..  The  natives  place 
broad  calabashes  under  the  drooping  leaves  of  the  pandanus-trees, 
which  abound  in  this  vicinity,  to  receive  it  as  it  drops,  so  that  their 
beverage  is  literally  the  sparkling  dew-drops.  The  wells  alluded  to 
are  nearly  five  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Near  the  landing  at  Honuaula,  there  is  a  remarkable  submarine 
grot,  which  might  furnish  as  poetic  a  theme  as  that  spoken  of 
by  Marriner  at  the  Tonga  Islands,  and  adopted  by  Byron  in  his 
"  Island."  Descending  from  the  road  among  the  dark  rocks  that 
bound  the  sea,  to  a  huge  boulder  conspicuous  amid  those  around  it, 
a  loud,  hissing  noise  is  heard,  like  steam  escaping  from  a  safety- 
valve.  This  is  occasioned  by  the  motion  of  the  sea.  When  it 
recedes,  the  air  is  forced  down  through  the  aperture  by  atmospheric 
pressure  with  a  peculiar  sucking  sound,  and  as  the  wave  returns,  it 
is  forced  outward  again  with  the  hissing  noise  before  mentioned,  so 


174  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

that  the  phenomenon  is  momentarily  repeated.  This  breathing-hole 
is  twenty  yards  from  the  shore,  which  is  bold  and  rocky.  The 
cavern  is  reached  by  diving  from  the  rock  to  the  depth  of  twenty- 
five  feet,  when  the  entrance  is  discovered,  a  broad,  dark  passage, 
into  which  the  diver  turns  and  swims  boldly  for  about  fifteen  feet, 
then  ascending  gradually,  he  emerges  to  the  white  sandy  beach  of 
the  interior.  * 

None  other  than  expert  divers  and  native  "  mermaids"  have  ven- 
tured into  this  Syren  chamber,  and  their  accounts  of  it  are  marvellous. 
Besides  describing  a  wonderful  marine  plant,  to  which  they  attribute 
medicinal  properties,  they  say  that  their  bodies  look  white — "  as 
white  as  the  snows  of  Mauna  L6a."  The  cavern,  being  on  the 
western  side  of  the  island,  is  only  visited  when  the  sun  is  past  me- 
ridian and  unobscured.  Even  then,  the  rays  of  light  refracted  at 
those  azure  depths,  and  faintly  transmitted  through  the  gloomy  pas- 
sage, can  only  illumine  the  vault  with  a  sepulchral  glow. 

In  bidding  adieu  to  Ulapalakua,  I  do  so  with  regret,  for  with  it  are 
linked  the  earliest  impressions  that  have  combined  to  foster  a  taste 
for  Polynesian  adventure,  and  to  instil  an  appreciation  of  Hawaiian 
hospitality,  both  native  and  foreign.  Though  it  lack  the  waving 
groves  and  gushing  fountains  of  poetic  imagery,  its  rocks  and  broad 
fields  possess  a  fascinating  power  that  lends  a  charm  to  every  in- 
cident associated  with  them.  Not  the  least  pleasing  reminiscence 
is  to  review  again  the  happy  and  contented  faces  that  have  lent  ani- 
mation to  scenes  where  nature  has  poured  out  her  harvests  of  plenty ; 
and  I  cannot  forbear  expressing  a  conviction  that  the  efforts  of  the 
enterprising  proprietor  will  be  successfully  rewarded  ;  also  the  hope 
that  he  may  long  continue,  as  he  has  ever  been,  an  example  of  per- 
severance to  those  around  him. 


A  Landscape.  175 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

KA  WAIHAE— TRAGEDY— COURTSHIP. 

IF  the  recital  of  incidents  possessing  little  interest  has  not  already 
grown  wearisome,  let  the  indulgent  reader  skip  over  an  interval  of 
two  years,  and  join  me  on  a  pleasure  excursion  to  Hawaii,  the  largest 
island  of  the  group,  and  which  perhaps  neither  of  us  has  yet  visited. 
Though  our  conveyance  is  one  of  the  small  coasters  that  cruise 
among  the  islands,  she  holds  her  way  with  a  will  against  the  south- 
west wind,  and  in  earnest  of  her  efforts,  is  scattering  the  brine  fore 
and  aft  in  fine  style. 

Our  first  port  of  destination  was  Kawaihae,  a  town  situate  on  the 
northwest  side  of  the  island  ;  and  as  the  schooner  had  just  come  into 
the  possession  of  owners,  unacquainted  with  the  ports  of  Hawaii,  it 
was  deemed  prudent  to  hug  the  wind  as  closely  as  possible  until 
near  enough  to  the  shore  to  discover  the  locality  sought.  The  morn- 
ing was  fine,  and  the  unclouded  rays  of  the  sun  shone  with  dazzling 
effect  upon  the  lofty  snow-covered  summits,  trending  with  gentle 
declivity  to  the  clouds.  The  bold  outline  of  hill  and  valley  became 
every  moment  more  distinctly  defined,  and  the  broad  landscape  swept 
upward  in  varied  undulations  to  the  dark  summit  of  Hualalai.  There 
were  strips  of  white  sand-beach,  flecked  with  black  rocks  of  lava, 
the  whole  sometimes  relieved  by  clusters  of  cocoanut-trees,  giving 
shelter  to  a  few  grass-huts.  Beyond,  the  soil  looked  dry  and  parched, 
and  huge  boulders  were  scattered  thickly  over  the  surface,  which 
was  now  and  then  varied  by  black  serpentine  streams  of  congealed 
lava.  Farther  up,  the  scenery  improved,  being  diversified  by  green 
hummocks  and  tempting  groves,  but  there  was  not  even  the  shadow 
of  a  rill  to  lend  an  air  of  life  and  freshness.  The  black  jagged  rock 
connecting  two  green  hills  like  a  wall  would  be  a  perfect  gem,  could 
we  but  trace  the  silver  thread  of  a  mountain  stream  leaping  from 
crag  to  crag  in  its  giddy  course.  Beneath  the  white  clouds,  a  belt 
of  evergreen  forest  encircles  the  mountain ;  above,  there  is  naught 
but  desolate  grandeur. 


176  Reef-Ravings  in  the  South  Seas. 

By  noon  we  were  anchored  off  the  port  of  Kawaihae.  This  was 
one  of  the  most  lonely  places  dignified  with  the  name  of  port  I  had 
ever  visited  ;  it  consists  merely  of  half  a  dozen  framed  houses,  scat- 
tered at  wide  intervals  along  the  rocky  shore,  and  perhaps  a  couple 
of  dozen  native  huts,  suspiciously  separated  from  each  other ; 
a  few  cocoanut-trees  charitably  extend  their  broad  plumes  over 
the  miserable  abodes  that  craved  their  protection.  With  all  its 
faults,  Kawaihae  must  not  be  too  hastily  condemned,  for  it  is  but  the 
humble  gate  to  a  paradise  among  the  mountains  ;  I  mean  Waimea, 
distant  from  the  shore  eight  miles,  and  enjoying  the  temperature  of 
perpetual  spring,  at  an  elevation  of  7,000  feet  above  the  sea.  It  may 
be  that  "  distance  lends  enchantment  to  the  view,"  but  from  what  I 
could  observe  of  it  by  the  aid  of  a  powerful  glass,  I  should  judge  the 
scenery  around  to  be  lovely.  At  this  place  may  be  seen  the  ruins  of 
one  of  the  largest  heiaus  to  be  found  throughout  the  group,  but  as  our 
stay  was  limited,  I  did  not  visit  it. 

With  Kawaihae  is  connected  an  historical  incident  of  considerable 
interest,  for  here  Keoua,  (the  eldest  son  and  successor  of  King 
Kalaiopu,  whose  name  is  so  intimately  associated  with  that  of 
Captain  Cook,)  who  was  the  last  rival  of  Kamehameha  L,  was  bar- 
barously assassinated.  A  melancholy  interest  attaches  itself  to  this 
last  of  a  race  of  kings.  Not  content  with  his  acknowledged  su- 
premacy over  a  portion  of  the  island,  he  aspired  to  the  sovereignty  of 
the  whole,  to  which  he  considered  himself  the  legitimate  heir.  The 
battle  of  Keei  was  fought,  in  which  his  brother  was  slain  and  his  fol- 
lowers routed,  Keoua  himself  taking  refuge  among  his  adherents 
in  Hilo,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  island.  Among  them  he  resided 
for  several  years,  but  in  1789  he  marshalled  his  forces  for  a  final  at- 
tack upon  those  of  Kamehameha  upon  the  western  shores.  He  took 
the*  road  across  the  island  by  the  way  of  the  volcano,  and  encamped 
in  its  vicinity.  During  the  night  an  eruption  occurred,  by  which 
eighty  warriors  were  destroyed.  He  continued  his  march,  and  en- 
gaged with  the  forces  of  Kamehameha,  under  his  chief  Kaiana,  at  a 
place  called  Kailikii,  or  the  southernmost  portion  of  the  island. 
Here  he  was  defeated  and  compelled  to  retreat,  but  was  overtaken 
by  the  victorious  army,  when  another  battle  was  fought,  and  his 
forces  completely  destroyed,  Keoua  saving  himself  by  flying  to  the 


Assassination  of  a  King.          .  177 

mountains,  attended  by  a  few  faithful  followers.  After  roaming 
amid  the  forests  for  some  time,  he  determined  to  abdicate  forever  in 
favor  of  his  fortunate  rival,  and  for  this  purpose  he  requested  permis- 
sion of  Kaiana  to  pass  through  his  forces  unmolested.  This  was 
granted,  and  he  embarked  in  a  canoe  near  the  scene  of  his  discom- 
fiture, and  sailed  along  the  western  shores  to  surrender  himself  to 
Kamehameha,  then  residing  at  Kawaihae. 

On  his  way  thither  he  stopped  at  several  places  where  the  inhab- 
itants, who  were  devotedly  attached  to  him,  testified  their  pleasure 
at  seeing  him  by  various  acceptable  presents,  and  some  of  them  pro- 
phesied with  lamentations  that  he  would  never  return.  Kamehameha, 
with  characteristic  magnanimity,  renewed  the  assurances  of  his  kind 
intention ;  but  there  was  with  him  a  ferocious  chief,  named  Keeau- 
moku,  who  had  determined  on  his  death.  Kamehameha  was  stand- 
ing upon  the  beach,  surrounded  by.  his  chiefs,  when  the  canoe  bear- 
ing the  fallen  king  approached,  and  fearful  lest  the  royal  clemency 
should  be  manifested  in  his  behalf,  Keeaumoku  waded  into  the  water, 
and  seizing  hold  of  the  canoe  with  one  hand,  despite  the  threats  and 
remonstrances  of  the  chiefs  on  shore,  he  stabbed  Keoua  to  the 
heart  with  a  dagger,  besides  several  of  his  friends  who  came  in  the 
same  canoe.  This  is  but  one  of  the  many  dark  scenes  in  Hawaiian 
history. 

I  was  somewhat  surprised  at  meeting  a  transient  acquaintance  at 
this  place,  whom  I  had  not  seen  for  more  than  two  years,  and  who, 
for  a  week  previous  to  our  arrival,  had  been  on  a  visit  to  Waimea. 
It  was  Dr.  L ,  of  San  Francisco,  and  for  want  of  better  occupa- 
tion at  the  time,  I  proposed  a  stroll  along  the  beach,  to  which  he 
readily  consented,  and  I  afterwards  discovered  he  had  an  object  in 
view. 

It  appears  that  about  a  year  previous,  on  a  visit  to  this  place,  he 
had  found  a  modest  and  unassuming  little  girl,  (I  quote  his  own  words,) 
whose  simplicity  of  manner  had  completely  won  his  esteem.  He  had 
indubitable  proof  that  her  deportment  was  moral,  and  had  conse- 
quently bestowed  upon  her  various  testimonials  of  his  regard,  such 
as  wreaths,  dresses,  pin  money,  and  a  piece  of  gold,  all  of  which  she 
was  pleased  to  accept,  and  in  earnest  of  reciprocal  sentiments,  she 
smiled  bewitchingly,  banqueted  him  on  fish  andpoz,  bestowed  an  oc- 

12 


178  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

casional  kiss,  and  whispered  aloha.  The  doctor  had  made  no  de- 
cided progress  in  his  suit,  owing  to  his  ignorance  of  the  language ; 
he  could  smile,  and  "  look  unutterable  things,"  and  even  brush  away 
the  flies  with  the  kahili,  as  she  reclined  upon  the  mats,  but  the  main 
thing,  a  mutual  interchange  of  sentiment,  was  out  of  the  question. 
I  saw  at  once  his  object ;  he  wished  to  avail  himself  of  my  ser- 
vices as  interpreter.  I  promised  that  my  best  efforts  should  be  ex- 
erted to  promote  his  proxical  courtship,  provided  his  intentions  were 
honest. 

He  led  me  a  long  way  from  the  town,  over  a  sandy  beach,  to  a 
small  grove  of  cocoanut-trees  that  were  leaning  affectionately  sea- 
ward, their  branches  rustling  in  the  breeze.  Here  were  three  or 
four  houses,  and  one  of  them  conspicuous  amid  those  around  it,  by 
its  elevated  position  and  rude  wall  of  lava,  was  said  to  contain  the 
object  in  question.  A  dilapidated  canoe-house  in  one  corner  of  the 
inclosure,  containing  two  canoes,  denoted  some  pretension  to  prop- 
erty ;  besides,  there  were  sundry  other  articles,  such  as  nets,  poi 
boards,  a  stone-pounder,  fractured  calabashes,  and  two  or  three 
samples  of  hardware  ;  in  short,  the  ordinary  appurtenances  of  a 
Hawaiian  household.  The  doctor's  claims  gave  him  the  right  of 
precedence,  and  much  to  my  surprise,  we  found  the  Hawaiian  belle 
reclining  upon  light  mats  of  the  pandanus,  supported  by  pillows, 
while  two  or  three  old  women  were  assiduously  engaged  fanning 
her,  and  a  third  attendant  was  dressing  her  hair,  giving  the  scene  an 
effect  semi-oriental,  semi-barbaric. 

"  Isn't  she  pretty  ?"  was  the  first  question. 

I  confess  that  I  was  disappointed ;  from  the  doctor's  description, 
I  expected  nothing  less  than  a  paragon  of  beauty  and  excellence ; 
though  certainly  interesting,  pretensions  to  superior  charms  would 
have  been  ill-founded.  She  possessed  in  an  ordinary  degree  the 
characteristics  of  Hawaiian  beauty — hair  black  and  glossy,  and  brows 
prettily  arched,  but,  what  is  unusual,  the  orb  beneath  shone  with  a 
dim  lustre  ;  with  reference  to  the  nasal  organ,  there  was  a  tendency 
to  fullness  of  nostril,  though  whenever  she  smiled  two  rows  of  unex- 
ceptionable teeth  were  displayed.  Her  air  of  unsophisticated  in- 
nocence contrasted  so  strongly  with  the  vivacity  peculiar  to  native 
girls  at  her  age,  that  I  suspected  she  had  received  her  tuition  from  the 


A  Polynesian  Belle.  179 


officious  mammas,  who  flattered  themselves  that  their  protegee  was 
every  way  worthy  of  aspiring  to  the  hand  and  purse  of  an  M.D. 
She  wore  a  loose  white  muslin  robe,  and  her  small  ankles  and  feet 
were  concealed  by  white  stockings  and  morocco  slippers.  A  pair  of 
broad  gold  earrings,  and  several  showy  appendages  of  the  same  ma- 
terial upon  her  fingers,  were  evidences  of  the  doctor's  prodigality. 
Around  her  neck,  suspended  by  a  black  ribbon,  she  wore  th  id  entical 
piece  of  gold,  which  spoke  volumes  in  her  favor. 

She  received  us  with  an  affectation  of  languor,  without  changing 
her  recumbent  position.  I  was  introduced  as  a  confidential  friend, 
which  was  interpreted  without  any  embellishment.  It  is  unneces- 
sary to  recapitulate  the  conversation  that  ensued,  in  which  the  old 
women  took  a  conspicuous  part.  "  Had  she  ever  resided  in  Hono- 
lulu or  Lahaina  ?"  "  No.  Her  peregrinations  extended  only  to 
Waimea  and  the  districts  adjoining.  In  their  opinion,  girls  who 
frequented  such  large  towns,  and  were  fond  of  travelling,  were  no 
better  than  they  should  be.  For  their  part,  they  didn't  approve  of 
rearing  children  in  ignorance.  The  child  could  read,  write,  sew, 
and  sing,  and  was  in  fact  superior  to  the  'ordinary  run'  of  girls." 
One  of  them  inquired  of  me,  I  thought  rather  seriously,  whether  the 
doctor  was  in  earnest ;  also  as  to  his  general  character,  and  ability 
to  maintain  a  wife  and  her  family  with  becoming  dignity. 

By  this  time  I  had  concluded  that  he  was  perpetrating  only  a 
serious  joke,  and  that  his  "  earnest  regard"  was  stronger  than  his 
love.  I  replied  that  I  had  always  thought  him  a  nice  young  man, 
possessing  all  the  qualifications  for  making  a  young  lady  happy ; 
that  he  was  sometimes  eccentric,  and  required  careful  watching ; 
and  that  it  consequently  behooved  them  to  "  keep  an  eye  to  wind- 
ward," for  so  good  a  daughter  required  the  most  amiable  of  husbands. 

The  hair-dresser  fidgeted  about,  and  ventured  to  hint  that  a  certain 
piece  of  land  in  the  district  of  Kohala  was  then  in  the  market,  and 
was  remarkable  for  its  large  growth  of  taro  and  sweet  potatoes. 
Meanwhile,  the  young  lady  (I  have  forgotten  her  name)  had  dispos- 
sessed the  doctor  of  his  chain,  and  twined  it  about  her  neck  with 
true  female  vanity,  while  his  diamond  ring  was  sparkling  upon  her 
thumb.  To  a  question  of  his,  whether  she  would  accompany  him 
to  Honolulu,  she  replied,  "  Yes,  if  you'll  marry  me  before  I  go !" 


180  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

We  remained  here  about  half  an  hour,  and  then  returned  to  the 
party  at  the  landing,  which  had  been  augmented  during  our  absence 
by  a  few  straggling  foreigners  and  a  number  of  inquisitive  natives  of 

both  sexes.     Captain  B having  transacted  his  business  in  this 

place,  we  had  nothing  further  to  delay  our  departure.  How  the 
doctor's  suit  subsequently  progressed  I  could  never  learn,  for  that 
evening  he  sailed  for  Honolulu,  and  I  for  Kailua,  nor  have  we  ever 
seen  each  other  since. 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

KAIL UA. 

THE  land-breeze,  ladened  with  sweet  perfume,  came  tardily  that 
night,  but  cool  and  fresh  from  the  mountain.  The  full  moon  smiled 
upon  the  melting  undulations  of  hill  and  valley,  chasing  the  giant 
palm-shadows  from  the  tranquil  lagoon ;  and  the  steady  rustling  of 
the  gale,  as  it  rippled  the  moonlit  water,  mingled  with  the  monot- 
onous roar  of  the  breakers,  to  lull  the  sleeping  landscape.  The  ex- 
tended sails  smiled  a  welcome,  and  hurried  us  once  more  along  the 
dark  shores  of  Kona. 

The  following  morning  found  us  a  long  way  from  Kawaihae.  The 
district  of  Kona  wore  the  same  general  appearance  that  we  had 
noticed  at  Kohala,  except  an  apparent  increase  of  sterility  along  the 
shore,  for  it  now  presented  an  almost  unbroken  barrier  of  black  lava, 
against  which  the  waves  were  surging  with  a  noise  like  distant 
thunder.  In  some  places  were  spacious  tunnels  beneath  the  surface 
of  the  rock,  open  to  the  sea,  and  communicating  with  the  air  by 
large  irregular  fissures.  Compressed  within  the  narrow  limits  of 
these  subterranean  passages,  the  waves  are  hurried  along  with  im- 
mense power,  until  they  escape  from  their  dark  caverns,  bursting 
upward  in  lofty  jets  and  clouds  of  foam  and  spray,  with  an  effect, 
indescribably  grand.  Few  huts  were  seen,  and  these,  grouped  to- 
gether in  solitary  hamlets,  only  gave  a  more  marked  aspect  to  the 
general  desolation. 


A  "  Valet  de  CJiambre."  181 

I  said  we  were  going  to  Kailua,  which  means  either  Ocean  Cave 
or  Two  Seas,  but  neither  of  us  knew  where  it  was,  and  we  had  only 
a  few  desultory  directions  for  our  guidance.  Summed  up,  they 
amounted  to  a  good-sized  town,  in  which  the  church  and  governors 
house  were  conspicuous  ;  then,  after  "  rounding  the  black  pint,"  we 
would  see  a  battery  of  guns.  Add  to  this  a  few  scattered  cocoanut 
groves,  and  our  sailing  directions  were  complete.  At  noon  we 
observed  a  double  canoe  under  sail,  containing  three  persons,  and 
standing  along  the  shore  just  outside  the  breakers.  We  hauled  upon 
the  wind  sufficiently  to  form  an  angle  of  meeting,  determined,  if 
possible,  to  press  one  of  them  on  board  as  a  pilot.  In  due  time  the 
canoe  was  alongside.  Its  occupants  were  an  elderly  couple  and  a 
lad  about  fifteen  years  of  age.  It  was  from  Hilo,  ladened  with  fruit, 
and  bound  for  Kailua.  The  old  man  placed  the  boy  at  our  disposal, 
who  came  up  to  me  with  a  knowing  look,  and  inquired  in  good  Eng- 
lish whether  I  knew  him. 

"  No  ;  who  are  you  ?" 

"  Mauna  Loa,"  (great  mountain.) 

I  recognized  him  at  once,  arid  in  order  to  be  sure,  pulled  his 
slouched  hat  off  his  bullet  head,  and  found  his  bristly  hair  cropped 
short  as  ever.  He  had  grown  incredibly  ;  two  years  before,  while 
leading  a  rambling  life  on  East  Maui,  I  had  taken  the  young  vagrant 
intg  my  service  :  if  surveying  or  other  duties  called  me  abroad, 
Mauna  Loa,  much  to  his  annoyance,  had  a  knapsack  strapped  on  to 
his  shoulders,  and  occasionally  endured  forced  marches  on  an  empty 
stomach.  In  sporting,  he  was  serviceable  &  various  ways,  for  he 
sometimes  carried  the  gun,  and  always  the  game,  and  it  was  his  duty 
to  climb  the  cliffs  and  scare  the  pigeons  from  their  rocky  nests.  In 
cooking,  fishing,  and  running  errands,  he  was  generally  useful :  the 
art  of  polishing  boots  he  had  acquired  in  Honolulu.  However,  he 
ultimately  became  so  mischievous  and  saucy,  that  I  gave  him  indef- 
inite leave  of  absence  ;  since  then,  he  had  led  an  erratic  life,  with 
various  occupations,  from  setting  up  ten-pins  in  Honolulu,  to  weed- 
ing taro-patches  in  Lahaina,  and  he  now  very  coolly  proffered  a  re- 
newal of  his  former  services.  He  was  given  to  understand  that  a 
seat  upon  the  windlass  bitts,  and  keeping  a  sharp  look-out,  would  be 
the  most  becoming  position  he  could  then  occupy,  a  hint  he  was 


182  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

careful  to  take,  and  he  remained  at  his  post  until  we  dropped  anchor 
in  the  roadstead  of  Kailiia  at  half  past  one  o'clock. 

In  point  of  scenery,  this  was  the  most  interesting  spot  visited 
since  leaving  Lahaina  ;  like  most  native  villages,  the  houses  were 
distributed  with  greater  reference  to  convenience  than  regularity. 
Exclusive  of  the  few  substantial  dwellings  of  foreigners,  they  con- 
sisted chiefly  of  the  ordinary  grass-houses,  which,  from  a  superficial 
observation,  were  scattered  over  the  area  of  a  mile.  Situated  in  the 
rear  of  the  village,  upon  an  eminence,  was  the  house  of  Governor 
Adams,  built,  I  think,  of  stone,  and  neatly  whitewashed,  having  ex- 
tensive inclosures.  The  church  was  of  liberal  dimensions,  and 
occupied  a  central  position  ;  it  singularly  happened  that  the  steeple, 
which  had  been  standing  for  years,  fell  with  a  crash  about  fifteen 
minutes  after  we  had  landed.  There  were  several  varieties  of  trejes, 
but  the  cocoanut  was  most  conspicuous.  The  anchorage  is  protected 
on  the  north  by  a  low  point  of  lava,  extending  into  the  sea,  forming 
a  tolerable  protection  against  northerly  winds.  Here  were  a  num- 
ber of  rusty  guns  of  various  calibre,  either  mounted  on  indifferent 
carriages,  or  lying  upon  the  ground.  This  point,  which  is  com- 
posed entirely  of  lava,  was  formed  by  an  eruption  from  one  of  the 
craters  of  Hualalai,  about  fifty  years  ago,  but  whose  fires  have  long 
been  quiescent.  In  its  course  the  molten  flood  destroyed  several 
hamlets  and  plantations,  filling  up  a  bay  twenty  miles  in  extent. 

The  soil  of  Kailua  and  its  immediate  vicinity  is  thickly  covered 
with  volanic  evidences,  but  towards  the  mountain,  where  the  soil 
is  deeper  and  richer, *are  the  cultivations  of  the  natives.  Here 
the  banana,  sugar-cane,  melons,  mountain  taro,  and  sweet  pota- 
toes are  thriving.  At  a  greater  elevation  the  soil  improves,  con- 
sisting of  a  rich  vegetable  mould  and  decomposed  lava,  where  the 
bread-fruit,  orange,  and  ohia  grow  luxuriantly.  The  latter  is  the 
apple  of  Hawaii,  a  red  and  juicy  fruit,  and  so  strongly  resembling 
that  of  the  temperate  2one,  that  when  an  apple  finds  its  way  to  this 
group,  it  is  called  by  the  natives  "  ohia  kauri"  or  foreign  apple. 
The  average  height  of  the  tree  is  twenty  feet,  having  oblong  pointed 
leaves,  which  are  not  perennial ;  like  those  of  the  deciduous  plant 
it  resembles,  they  wither  and  fall  during  the  winter  months. 

Southeast  of  the  town  are  several  lava  caverns  similar  to  the  one 


Fruitless  Scarcli  for  a  Village.  183 

described  in  East  Maui  ;  that  was  reached  by  descending,  while 
these  are  tunnelled  into  the  side  of  the  mountain  ;  one  of  them, 
called  Lanikea,  is  of  considerable  extent,  and  contains  a  large  pool 
of  brackish  water.  As  is  the  case  throughout  the  entire  sea-board 
of  Western  Hawaii,  Kailua  is  sadly  deficient  in  fresh  water. 

It  was  the  design  of  Mr.  L ,  the  owner,  who  accompanied  us, 

to  purchase  a  cargo  of  oranges,  sweet  potatoes,  and  poultry  for  the 
San  Francisco  market,  but  several  traders  having  recently  been  here, 
these  staples  could  not  be  procured  ;  our  informant,  Mr.  Rice,  an  old 
resident,  intimated  that  at  either  Kealakekua  or  Keauho,  the  desired 
produce  might  be  obtained,  without  much  difficulty.  The  sun  was  at 
this  time  about  three  hours  high  ;  we  rowed  back  to  the  schooner, 
took  in  two  additional  oarsmen,  making  seven  of  us  in  all,  and 
started  for  Keauho.  Again  our  directions  were  either  indifferently 
given  or  carelessly  observed,  resulting  in  a  long  and  tedious  pull, 
without  discovering  our  place  of  destination.  A  few  days  previous 
there  had  been  a  gale  from  the  southwest,  which  had  left  a  heavy 
swell  setting  on  shore  from  that  direction,  and  to  avoid  the  rollers 
that  were  breaking  heavily  along  the  whole  extent  of  coast,  we 
stood  well  out,  and  a  landing  at  any  point  seemed  impracticable. 
The  shore  was  a  uniform  line  of  black  rocks ;  add  to  this  the 
unchanging  background  of  the  mountains,  the  interminable  array  of 
cocoanut-trees,  and  the  similarity  in  appearance  of  the  hamlets  suc- 
cessively passed,  and  an  excuse  may  be  offered  for  our  want  of 
success. 

It  was  near  sunset  when  we  reversed  our  course,  and  before  we 
had  accomplished  half  the  distance,  night  overtook  us.  It  was 
quite  dark,  for  the  moon  had  not  yet  risen,  but  we  could  hear 
the  breakers  boiling  under  our  lee  like  a  caldron ;  in  this  way  we 
rowed  for  three  hours,  guided  by  them  and  the  lights  that  glim- 
mered at  intervals  on  shore.  We  reached  the  schooner  at  eight, 
with  garments  drenched  and  strong  appetites. 


184  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

11  THE    PATHWAY   OF    THE    GODS." 

AT  four  in  the  morning  the  anchor  was  weighed  for  Ke-a-la-ke-ku-a. 
We  continued  fanning  along  until  daylight,  when  the  breeze  left  us 
becalmed,  in  company  with  two  small  native  schooners,  one  ahead 
and  the  other  astern.  Calms  are  the  chief  annoyance  incident  to 
voyaging  in  Hawaiian  waters,  and  passages  are  usually  made  to  lee- 
ward of  the  islands,  where  they  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  This 
inconvenience  is  in  some  degree  obviated  by  the  land  breeze  that 
blows  gently  from  the  mountains  before  midnight,  and  extends  a  short 
distance  seaward,  so  that  experienced  coasters  usually  hug  the  shore. 
This  has  reference  to  the  larger  islands  ;  in  most  of  the  channels  the 
northeast  trades  blow  uniformly. 

We  did  not  reach  Kealakekua  until  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  ; 
this  extensive  bay  will  ever  be  memorable  in  Hawaiian  annals,  as 
being  the  spot  where  the  celebrated  voyager,  Cook,  met  his  untimely 
fate.  The  narrative  of  this  event  is  too  familiar  to  require  further 
attention. 

Its  name  is  derived  from  a  remarkable  landslide  down  the  face 
of  a  precipitous  cliff  that  rises  abruptly  from  the  water  near  the 
head  of  the  bay ;  it  signifies,  "  The  Pathway  of  the  Gods."  The 
tradition  connected  with  the  spot  is,  that  on  one  occasion  a  mythic 
divinity,  in  his  anxiety  to  cross  over  to  the  south  side  of  the  harbor, 
chose  the  most  expeditious  route  instead  of  making  a  long  detour, 
and,  in  an  unbecoming  attitude  for  an  immortal,  slid  down  the  steep 
descent,  making  so  decided  an  impress  that  his  path  is  visible  at 
the  present  day.  Posterity  has  never  been  enlightened  as  to  the 
nature  of  this  urgent  mission. 

In  the  cliff  are  several  caverns,  which  were  formerly  used  as  re- 
positories for  the  dead.  On  the  north  side  of  the  bay,  where  the 
fetal  battle  occurred,  was  the  once  populous  town  of  Ka-wa-16-a,  now 
a  small  hamlet,  and  inferior  to  the  villages  on  the  east  and  south- 
ern sides  of  the  bay.  We  found  here  a  Californian  trader,  that  had 


Civility  of  a  Native  Barrister.  185 

just  completed  its  cargo,  and  from  the  captain,  Mr.  L ,  learned 

that  his  only  alternative  would  be  to  proceed  at  once  to  Keauho. 

A  landing  was  with  difficulty  effected,  owing  to  the  heavy  surf. 
The  passage  was  intricate,  and  bounded  by  jagged  rocks.  With  a 
native  pilot,  we  watched  an  opportunity  and  shot  in  on  a  roller,  and 
about  midway,  turning  suddenly  to  the  left,  reached  the  beach 
without  accident,  although  it  was  only  by  skilful  management  that 
the  boat  was  prevented  from  being  stove.  A  crowd  of  natives  were 
lounging  upon  the  shore,  some  of  whom  assisted  us  to  haul  up  our 
boat,  after  which  we  passed  through  the  village  of  grass-houses,  on 
our  way  to  the  residence  of  Mr.  Gumming,  Collector  of  the  Port,  and 
an  American.  This  and  the  adjoining  outbuildings  were  pleasantly 
located.  They  were  built  of  stone,  plastered,  and  neatly  white- 
washed. The  dwelling  had  a  verandah  in  front,  where  we  enjoyed 
the  sea-breeze,  and  watched  the  movements  of  the  natives  of  both 
sexes,  who  were  gossiping  good-humoredly  and  hanging  lazily  around. 
Mr.  Gumming  advised  us  to  take  horses  and  proceed  directly  to  Ke- 
auho, and  by  ascertaining  the  condition  of  the  supplies  at  that  place, 
we  would  avoid  the  trouble  of  visiting  it  in  the  schooner,  if  a  cargo 
was  not  to  be  procured. 

Before  leaving,  a  well-dressed  young  native  came  up  from  the 
crowd,  and  shaking  hands  with  me,  inquired  whether  I  recognized 
him.  A  second  look  discovered  it  to  be  the  lawyer  who  accom- 
panied the  surveying  party  to  Molokai,  and  who  was  so  fond  of  ex- 
hibiting his  palapala,  (diploma.)  With  him,  as  with  Mark  Meddle, 
"  costs,  actions,  and  damages  must  have  arisen  like  sky-rockets  in 
his  aspiring  mind  ;"  for  he  had  steadily  worked  his  way  up  to  the 
dignity  of  either  police  magistrate  or  district  judge,  and  had  become 
a  person  of  considerable  importance  in  his  own  estimation.  He  in- 
sisted on  my  accompanying  him  to  his  residence,  a  short  distance  to 
the  left  of  where  we  then  were.  It  proved  to  be  a  substantial  grass- 
house,  comfortably  furnished.  Its  occupants  at  the  time  were  his 
wife  and  her  sister,  both  young  and  pretty,  and  neatly  attired,  the  latter 
having  her  head  encircled  with  a  wreath  of  flowers.  He  introduced 
me  to  them  as  his  friend,  and  I  was  much  pleased  with  their  modest 
deportment  and  courteous  behavior.  They  invited  me  to  be  seated, 
and  his  wife  provided  a  large  plate  of  delicious  oranges,  also  a  bunch 


186  Reef -Ravings  in  the  South  Seas. 

of  choice  bananas.  After  leave-taking,  I  found  L sitting  in  the 

verandah,  waiting  patiently  for  a  native  to  saddle  a  couple  of  horses 
he  had  just  hired. 

We  mounted,  and  rode  through  the  village  ;  then  turning  short  to 
the  left,  ascended  the  heights  above  the  town  by  a  good  path,  and 
galloped  along  the  road  to  the  north. 

Our  route  lay  across  the  most  rugged  tract  of  lava  I  had  yet 
seen,  but  over  it  a  good  road  had  been  constructed  by  filling  the 
inequalities  with  fragments,  and  covering  the  whole  with  grass  and 
earth.  There  were  deep  chasms,  and  huge  black  masses  had  been 
thrown  up  in  every  conceivable  shape,  the  very  picture  of  chaos.  It 
seemed  as  if  a  vast  flood,  while  in  a  semi-fluid  state,  had,  by  some 
mighty  agency,  been  rent  asunder,  and  whirled  and  tossed  by  a  tem- 
pest of  elements,  until  congealed  in  its  present  form.  We  had  no 
time  to  make  any  minute  examination,  but  continued  on,  gradually 
descending,  and  passing  through  small  hamlets  along  the  sea-shore, 
which  was  an  uninterrupted  wall  of  lava,  against  which  the  sea  was 
violently  surging. 

We  rode  by  a  classic  spot  in  Hawaiian  history,  Kuamu,  for 
here,  in  1819,  was  fought  the  decisive  battle  which  forever  ban- 
ished idolatry  from  this  group.  The  heathen  party  was  commanded 
by  Kekuaokalani,  (the  God  of  Heaven,)  and  Kalaimoku,  who  com- 
manded the  forces  of  King  Liholiho,  was  cousin  to  the  former.  The 
morning  of  the  battle,  a  messenger  was  dispatched  to  the  heathen 
party,  to  effect,  if  possible,  a  reconciliation  ;  but  «the  young  chief, 
urged  on  by  the  priests,  was  inexorable,  and  so  bitter  was  the  hatred 
of  his  party,  that  the  messenger  with  difficulty  escaped  with  his  life. 
The  forces  of  Kalaimoku  occupied  the  sea-shore,  while  those  of 
Kekuaokalani  were  intrenched  behind  a  wall  farther  up.  The  battle 
commenced  ;  and  after  some  sharp  fighting,  the  latter  were  forced 
from  their  position,  and  fell  back  a  short  distance.  Here  the  young 
chief  rallied  his  warriors  for  a  final  effort,  but  being  himself  faint 
from  loss  of  blood  and  unable  to  stand,  he  sat  upon  a  fragment  of 
lava,  loaded,  and  fired  his  musket  twice  upon  the  advancing  party, 
but  soon  after,  receiving  a  ball  in  his  breast,  he  fell  and  expired. 
His  courageous  wife,  Manoa,  had  fought  by  his  side  during  the  day 
with  a  heroism  worthy  of  a  better  cause.  After  his  death,  seeing 


Inconveniences  of  Nig  fit  Travelling.  187 

Kalaimoku  advancing  with  his  sister,  she  craved  their  protection, 
but  ere  it  could  be  extended,  a  bullet  pierced  her  brain,  and  she  ex- 
pired by  the  side  of  her  husband.  The  spot  is  still  shown  where 
this  brave  and  affectionate  pair  received  the  last  rites  of  sepulture. 
This  incident  is  beautifully  described  by  Mr.  Ellis. 

We  reached  Keauho  at  sunset,  and  proceeding  at  once  to  the  only 
framed  house  in  the  village,  I  was  agreeably  surprised  to  find  it 

occupied  by  an  old  acquaintance,  Captain  0 ,  who  had  renounced 

his  allegiance  to  Neptune  to  render  homage  to  that  peaceful  divinity, 
Pomona.  This  was  evident  from  the  fact  of  his  having  on  the 
mountain-side  an  extensive  cultivation  of  squashes  suffering  from 
drought,  and  upon  which  he  was  constantly  invoking  a  liquid  bless- 
ing from  every  passing  cloud.  The  village  consisted  of  perhaps 
twenty-five  houses,  but  save  a  few  pandanus  and  cocoanut  trees,  and 
here  and  there  a  creeping  convolvulus,  I  do  not  recollect  seeing  any 
other  signs  of  vegetation.  There  is  a  small  cove  here,  of  sufficient 
depth  of  water  and  capacity  to  afford  a  safe  harbor  for  two  or  three 
schooners,  though  somewhat  obstructed  by  large  blocks  of  coral. 

This  spot  is  interesting  from  its  being  the  birth-place  of  Kameha- 
meha  ^ie  Great,  and  the  relics  of  one  of  his  war-canoes  is  still 
shown  to  visitors.  It  is  now  subservient  to  more  humble  purposes, 
for  at  the  time  I  saw  it,  it  sheltered  a  fine  brood  of  young  turkeys. 

L was  in  luck  ;  he  could  obtain  here  everything  desired,  and 

it  was  arranged  that  Captain  O should  return  with  us  to  Keala- 

kekua  and  pilot*the  schooner  into  the  harbor.  After  partaking  of  a 
hasty  supper,  we  started  off  with  two  horses  between  three  persons. 
This  inconvenience,  if  such  it  could  be  called,  (for  I  preferred  walk- 
ing,) was  obviated  by  alternately  changing  situations.  The  distance 
between  the  two  places  is  about  four  miles,  but  ere  it  had  been 
half  accomplished,  it  had  become  so  dark  that  we  were  compelled  to 
pick  our  way  carefully  over  the  uneven  surface  of  the  lava.  Captain 
O suggested  reaching  the  schooner  by  way  of  Kawaloa,  situ- 
ate on  the  north  side  of  the  bay.  Accordingly,  we  struck  off  from 
the  road,  intending  to  "  shape  a  course"  by  the  sea-shore,  which  was 
still  a  good  distance  off.  The  present  instance  furnished  a  happy 
illustration  of  "  the  blind  leading  the  blind."  After  patiently  guiding 
the  horses,  and  feeling  the  way  with  our  hands,  with  no  prospect  of 


188  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

ultimately  bettering  our  condition,  we  questioned  O more  closely 

as  to  his  knowledge  of  localities.  The  result  was,  that  he  "  didn't 
know,  but  guessed  he  could  find  the  way."  Our  only  hope  was  in 
discovering  a  native  from  whom  we  could  obtain  information.  After 
a  long  delay  we  were  successful,  and  learned  to  our  dismay, 
that,  owing  to  steep  precipices,  it  would  be  impossible  to  reach  Ka- 
waloa by  the  shore,  and  that  we  must  retrograde  as  we  had  come. 
A  few  invectives  were  muttered,  while  mentally  wishing  our  guide  had 
remained  at  Keauho  ;  but  after  gaining  the  highway  once  more, 
unfriendly  sentiments  vanished.  We  reached  the  hill  whence  we 
had  started,  and  turning  to  the  right,  commenced  the  descent  towards 
Kawaloa.  The  path  was  steep  and  winding,  being  covered  with 
loose  fragments  of  lava.  L considered  it  dangerous,  and  dis- 
mounted, but  I  retained  my  seat  in  the  saddle,  though  the  quadruped 
that  bore  it  would  sometimes  brace  himself  resolutely  and  slide  on 
"  all-fours." 

Captain  0 pointed  out  to  us  on  the  left  a  dark  tumulus,  built 

of  lava  blocks,  where  the  body  of  Captain  Cook  had  been  burned. 
On  the  eminence  to  the  left  was  the  spot  where  his  observatory  had 
been  erected.  Soon  after,  we  reached  Kawaloa,  but  its  inhabitants 
had  retired  to  rest,  and  our  march  through  the  town  was  only  dis- 
turbed by  dogs,  which  kept  up  an  incessant  barking.  The  houses 
looked  dilapidated  and  gloomy,  and  the  dark  shadows  of  the  cocoa- 
palms  seemed  to  heighten  the  effect. 

On  arriving  at  the  shore,  we  hailed  the  schooner,  which  we  knew 
was  anchored  somewhere  in  the  darkness,  but  obtained  no  reply. 

O suggested  appropriating  a  canoe,  but  this  would  have  been 

unfair,  without  the  owner's  consent.  We  therefore  concluded  to 
separate,  and  beat  about  the  village  until  we  could  find  some  one  who 

would  ferry  us  aboard.  L remained  upon  the  shore,  while 

O climbed  over  a  wall  into  a  yard,  where  he  was  instantly 

beset  by  dogs.  I  returned  by  the  path  we  came,  to  a  hut  where 
I  had  noticed  the  twinkling  of  a  light.  Proceeding  cautiously 
towards  it,  and  looking  through  a  small  aperture  in  the  thatch,  I 
saw  an  interesting  spectacle.  An  elderly  couple,  wrinkled  with  age, 
whose  appetites  had  got  the  better  of  their  slumbers,  were  seated 
in  the  middle  of  the  apartment,  loosely  attired  with  soiled  kapas, 


A  Tragic  Stage  in  Life's  Drama.  189 

and  having  a  calabash  of  poi  and  a  few  dried  fish  between  them. 
They  were  having  a  feast  of  fat  things.  That  innocent  appendage 
to  a  Hawaiian  household,  a  lank  cur,  was  seated  upon  his  haunches, 
staring  gloomily  at  them.  He  must  have  either  seen  or  heard  me, 
for  I  was  aroused  from  my  eaves-dropping  by  a  sudden  yelp,  upon 
N  which  I  knocked  hastily  at  the  door.  The  old  man  called  out : 

"  Owdi  6e  ?"  (who  are  you  ?) 

"He  hoa,  no  p  aha"  (a  friend,  perhaps.) 

"  Ai  pdha ;  hed  ka  mea  mdkemdke  oe  ?"  (perhaps  so  ;  what  do  you 
want  ?) 

"  Mdkemdke  au  e  hele  maluna  o  kou  wda,  ma  ka  moku  kialua ;  mat 
Lahaina  mai,  ua  ku  mai  keia  Z«,"  (I  want  to  go  in  your  canoe  to  the 
schooner  from  Lahaina  ;  it  arrived  to-day.) 

"  O!  maikdi,  e  hele  mai  oe  maloko  nei"  (ah!  right;  come  inside.) 

These  preliminaries  are  seldom  resorted  to,  but  as  I  had  disturbed 
him  at  a  most  unseasonable  hour,  he  was  perhaps  justified  in  pro- 
pounding a  few  inquiries.  Having  entered,  they  invited  me  to  join 
them,  but  I  declined,  alleging  that  I  had  friends  waiting  for  me  ;  he 
received  the  hint  with  indifference,  and  continued  his  repast.  This 
concluded,  he  lighted  a  lantern  and  accompanied  me  ;  at  my  request, 
he  pointed  out  the  cocoanut-tree  that  had  been  sawed  off,  and  upon 
which  was  nailed  a  sheet  of  copper,  with  an  inscription  almost 
illegible,  to  the  effect  that,  "  Near  this  spot  fell  the  renowned  circum- 
navigator, Captain  James  Cook,"  &c.  It  is  a  pity  that  some  suitable 
testimonial  has  not  been  erected  to  the  memory  of  this  unfortunate 
voyager,  whose  life  was  devoted  to  the  advancement  of  science. 
We  also  went  down  to  the  rock  where  he  received  the  fatal  stab 
while  ordering  the  marines  to  cease  firing.  This  has  been  sadly 
chipped  away  by  devotees  who  have  made  a  pilgrimage  to  Kealake- 
kua.  The  name  of  Lono  (Cook)  is  reverenced  by  Hawaiians,  and 
they  modestly  attribute  to  themselves  the  causes  that  led  to  the  fatal 
result.  If  there  be  no  monument  here  to  record  his  fame,  his 
memory  will  ever  be  cherished  in  the  hearts  of  his  countrymen,  and 
he  will  be  remembered  by  all,  as  one  whose  achievements,  though 
peaceful,  were  unqualifiedly  great ;  and  who,  for  accuracy  of 
observation  and  extent  of  discovery  in  this  ocean,  stands  unrivalled 
among  cotemporaneous  or  subsequent  voyagers. 


190  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 


CHAPTER   XX. 

LOITERINGS  IN  A   HAWAIIAN  VILLAGE. 

EARLY  in  the  morning  the  anchor  was  weighed,  but  the  breeze  being 
light,  we  did  not  reach  Keauho  before  ten  o'clock.  As  we  entered 
the  harbor,  the  sight  was  anything  but  tranquillizing  to  weak  nerves. 
We  were  steering  for  an  iron-bound  shore,  where  the  surf  was  beat- 
ing with  a  noise  like  thunder,  and  bursting  upwards  in  sheets  of 
foam.  Had  the  wind  failed  us,  it  would  have  been  unpleasant  to 
anticipate  consequences.  Though  the  entrance  was  narrow,  we 
had  a  commanding  breeze  that  carried  us  safely  in,  where  we  an- 
chored and  moored  the  schooner  by  ropes  made  fast  to  cocoanut- 
trees. 

From  the  sensation  produced  among  the  natives,  I  should  judge 
that  arrivals  were  unfrequent  at  Keauho,  for  the  adjoining  rocks 
were  covered  with  curious  idlers,  and  re-echoed  their  boisterous 
welcome.  The  water,  which  does  not  exceed  two  fathoms  in 
depth,  is  beautifully  transparent ;  and  over  the  white  sandy  bottom 
are  scattered  clusters  of  coral  and  shells.  Floating  upon  it  were 
canoes  filled  with  girls,  who  paddled  around  us,  laughing  and 
singing  in  high  glee.  Frequently,  when  the  outriggers  came  in 
collision  with  each  other,  the  occupant  of  one  canoe,  by  a  dexterous 
movement,  would  capsize  those  of  the  other  into  the  water,  a  joke 
that  was  taken  in  good  part,  and  some  of  these  amphibious  damsels 
seemed  to  manifest  a  preference  for  the  briny  element. 

Sometimes  half  a  dozen  heads  were  dotting  the  surface  on  one 
side  of  the  schooner ;  then,  by  a  simultaneous  movement,  all  would 
disappear  and  presently  be  seen  shooting  upwards  on  the  opposite 
side.  They  swam  about,  plashing  the  brine  in  each  other's  faces,  and 
when  fatigued  rested  themselves  by  clinging  to  the  outriggers.  One 
of  these  girls,  perhaps  fourteen  years  of  age,  possessed  an  ornament 
that  might  excite  the  envy  of  our  belles  at  home,  and  which  so  en- 
hances female  beauty.  This  was  the  most  exquisite  (indulge  the 
word)  head  of  hair  I  ever  beheld  in  Polynesia.  While  swimming, 
it  was  either  trailing  behind  her  or -hiding  her  face  ;  but  was  only 


Mountain  Scenery.  191 


seen  to  advantage  when  its  possessor  was  basking  on  shore,  where 
she  allowed  it  to  float  loosely  upon  her  shoulders.  Black,  wavy,  and 
glossy,  and  unrivalled  in  fineness,  its  peculiar  beauty  was  noticed 
by  all  on  board,  from  the  owner  to  the  sailor.  The  juvenile  portion 
of  the  community  seemed  greatly  to  preponderate,  and  our  deck  was 
soon  encumbered  with  them. 

We  remained  here  three  or  four  days,  and  during  that  time  took 
on  board  twenty  thousand  oranges  and  a  large  quantity  of  sweet 
potatoes,  besides  pigs  and  poultry.  The  oranges  grow  upon  the 
mountain-side,  about  three  miles  distant  from  the  beach,  and  are 
brought  down  by  the  natives  in  large  baskets  made  of  the  pandanus 
leaves,  one  of  which  is  suspended  from  each  extremity  of  a  pole  and 
carried  upon  the  shoulder  to  the  shore.  One  morning,  in  company 

with  L ,  I  ascended  the  mountain  to  where  the  fruit  grew.  The 

ascent  was  gradual,  and  our  path  at  first  lay  over  a  field  of  broken 
lava  ;  but  as  we  advanced  this  was  covered  with  a  red  or  brownish 
soil ;  and  here  we  found  extensive  cultivations  of  the  sweet  potato 
and  melons,  all  looking  thrifty.  Farther  up  were  groves  of  bananas, 
with  their  yellow  fruit  pendent ;  and  the  soil  continued  to  improve  as 
we  neared  the  edge  of  the  forest.  Here,  the  land  was  beautifully  di- 
versified by  hill  and  valley,  whose  gentle  declivities  were  sometimes 
shaded  by  groves  of  bread-fruit,  and  the  dark  foliage  of  the  orange 
thickly  studded  with  its  golden  fruit.  That  unique  plant,  the  papaya, 
was  also  growing  here,  its  luscious  treasure  clustering  around  the  upper 
portion  of  its  slender  stem  ;  and  I  also  noticed  a  species  of  fan- 
palm.  There  were  several  small  inclosures  of  thrifty-looking 
coffee-trees,  ornamented  with  their  red  berries.  A  feeling  of  regret 
naturally  intrudes  itself  that  such  valuable  land  should  remain  uncul- 
tivated. Its  prolific  soil  would  yield  an  abundant  harvest  of  either 
coffee  or  sugar-cane ;  but  it  now  nourishes  a  tangled  forest,  luxuriant 
in  its  wildness. 

We  saw  but  few  native  houses,  and  into  one  of  these  we  entered. 
Its  only  inmate  was  a  superannuated  woman,  who  was  endeavoring 
with  her  almost  palsied  fingers  to  braid  a  mat.  She  wished  us 
aloha,  and  bade  us  be  seated.  Being  fatigued  by  our  morning  walk, 
we  cheerfully  complied  with  her  request. 

There  is  often  a  melancholy  pleasure  in  conversing  with  these  old 


192  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

people  of  the  ancient  regime  ;  their  day  has  gone  by  ;  they  have  in- 
dulged for  the  last  time  in  their  pastimes.  The  ordeal  of  civil  war- 
fare that  has  so  often  desolated  their  homes,  and  the  foreign  pesti- 
lence of  later  years,  have  left  them  unscathed  ;  they  now  live  to  see 
but  a  relic  of  the  stirring  thousands  that  once  trod  these  hills  ;  their 
homes,  and  all  they  once  held  sacred,  are  passing  into  the  hands  of 
strangers.  I  was  much  interested  in  the  conversation  of  this  old 
woman,  who  became  animated  as  she  reverted  once  more  to  the 
scenes  of  her  childhood,  interspersed  with  tales  of  "  flood  and  field." 

At  L 's  request,  I  inquired  whether  she  recollected  the  death  of 

Captain  Cook.  Her  reminiscences  of  the  events  of  those  days  were 
faint ;  still,  she  recollected  the  circumstances  attending  it,  and  spoke 
reverently  of  King  Kalaiopu. 

"  Nadupo  na  kanaka  ia  manewa"  (men  were  ignorant  then,)  she 
remarked  with  great  earnestness,  alluding  to  the  age  of  darkness 
and  superstition. 

Having  refreshed  ourselves,  we  wished  our  kind  entertainer 
"  aloha  nui  oe"  (much  love  to  you,)  and  returned  to  the  beach,  which 
we  reached  about  one  o'clock  p.  M.  The  word  nadupoi  used  by  the 
woman,  means  literally  dark-bowelled,  the  Hawaiians  conceiving  that 
their  intellectual  faculties  are  interwoven  with  the  viscera  ;  but  they 
are  not  singular  in  this  respect,  for  sacred  writers  make  allusion  to 
"  bowels  (oTT^dyxva)  of  compassion."  I  was  one  day  amused  in  La- 
haina,  by  the  remark  of  an  old  man  to  another,  with  whom  he  had 
had  a  quarrel  some  time  previous.  The  latter  was  endeavoring  to 
conciliate  him  by  every  reasonable  argument  that  suggested  itself, 
when  the  other,  after  listening  patiently  to  all  he  had  to  advance, 
simply  remarked,  "  My  bowels  are  not  right  towards  you,"  and 
walked  away. 

On  Sunday  morning  I  visited  a  singing-school,  held  in  the  native 
church,  which  could  not  be  more  primitive  ;  it  was  simply  a  large 
oblong  grass-house,  open  at  both  extremities,  and  on  one  of  its  sides 
A  rude  pulpit  had  been  constructed,  but  the  only  seats  were  flat 
stones  placed  upon  the  finely  broken  lava  that  constituted  the  floor. 
Besides  the  young  of  both  sexes  of  Keauho,  natives  had  also  assem- 
bled from  the  villages  adjoining,  and  a  goodly  number  of  happy  faces 
were  congregated  beneath  the  humble  roof.  The  men  occupied  the 


A  Singing- School  193 


seats  in  the  rear,  while  the  young  ladies  sat  in  front,  and  some  of 
them,  more  fastidious  than  their  companions,  had  brought  small  mats 
for  their  convenience.  A  few  of  the  girls  were  neatly  attired,  and 
wore  silk  shawls  or  scarfs  over  their  muslin  dresses,  and  white 
stockings  and  slippers.  The  chorister  was  a  stout,  athletic  native,  an 
intelligent-looking  fellow,  and  sported  a  slight  moustache  ;  he  wore 

a  fancy  regatta  shirt,  carelessly  adjusted  over  a  pair  of ,  I  hardly 

know  what  to  call  them,  for  they  we're,  certainly  not  pants  ;  they  ap- 
peared to  be  a  medium  between  the  sailor  and  Chinese  trowsers  ; 
however,  there  was  no  mistaking  their  quality ;  I  distinctly  read  in 
faded  blue  characters,  semicircularly  arranged,  "  Superior  Brown 
Dril ,"  the  remainder  was  lost  by  a  fold  in  the  garment. 

Their  songs  were  sacred,  and  set  to  music,  each  person  having  a 
book,  and  it  was  surprising  to  witness  their  proficiency,  for  nearly 
all  were  more  or  less  acquainted  with  the  notes  ;  but  the  greatest 
difficulty  the  chorister  had  to  encounter  was  the  democratic  propen- 
sities of  his  juvenile  pupils,  whose  discords  rang  out  with  startling 
effect ;  precisely  the  same  giggling,  whispering,  and  looking  for 
places  occurred,  observable  in  a  singing-school  at  home.  The 
voices  of  the  Hawaiians  have  not  the  flexibility  and  compass  peculiar 
to  the  Tahitians,  which  harmonize  so  sweetly,  and  in  whom  music 
appears  to  be  innate,  for  they  are  unacquainted  with  its  theory;  but 
such  as  they  are,  it  is  pleasing  to  hear  them  chanting  airs  familiar, 
and  reviving  associations  of  one's  native  land. 

After  these  exercises  had  continued  for  an  hour,  a  horn  was 
blown  to  summon  the  people  to  church,  and  a  large  number  of  both 
sexes  soon  collected.  The  principal  man  of  the  place,  whose  name 
I  do  not  recollect,  was  well  dressed,  and  sat  in  a  chair  that  was 
provided  for  him  ;  he  courteously  offered  to  have  one  brought  for  me', 
but  I  declined  the  favor,  preferring  to  sit  on  a  mat  near  his  wife,  who 
had  invited  me  to  attend,  and  who,  during  the  service,  always  found 
the  hymn  given  out  and  handed  me  the  book.  The  minister  was  a 
venerable-looking  man,  and  dressed  in  a  suit  of  black ;  the  text 
given  was  from  the  Proverbs  of  Solomon,  but  I  cannot  now  recollect 
the  chapter  or  verse.  I  regretted  that  my  knowledge  of  the  native 
tongue  was  too  limited  to  enable  me  to  comprehend  connectedly  the 
discourse,  though  some  portions  were  distinctly  understoqd  ;  what- 

13 


194  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

ever  might  have  been  the  nature  of  his  remarks,  the  most  profound 
attention  was  observed  by  his  hearers.  It  was  pleasing  to  witness 
the  devotion  of  this  congregation,  for  there  were  many  present  who 
had  once  been  Sabbath-breakers  and  idolaters,  and  I  was  led  to  re- 
flect that  the  services  of  those  who  had  reclaimed  them  from  their 
heathenish  customs,  and  many  of  their  vicious  habits,  were  often  too 
lightly  estimated ;  it  has  been  urged  by  cavilers,  that  efforts  have 
been  made  to  instruct  these  natives  in  "  things"  utterly  beyond  their 
comprehension.  Admitting  that  their  minds  are  too  simple  to 
grapple  with  the  subtleties  of  theology  or  metaphysics,  they  are  suf- 
ficiently clear  to  comprehend  the  difference  that  exists  between 
right  and  wrong,  at  least  in  their  extremes,  or  to  understand  the  sim- 
ple command,  "Thou  shalt  have  no  other  gods  before  me."  The 
reverence  of  the  Christian  for  his  God,  or  the  heathen  or  devotee  for 
his  idol,  may  be  equally  sincere ;  yet,  though  in  grove  or  cloister  the 
latter  convoke  to  his  aid  symbols  for  a  faith  he  vaguely  feels,  but 
yearns  to  possess — a  spiritual  longing  inherent  in  the  minds  of  both 
— we  cannot  compare  them  with  a  hope  of  obtaining  results  equally 
beneficial,  for  the  moral  effect  of  the  one  is  inversely  to  that  of  the 
other.  Examine  this  principle  in  whatever  phase  it  may  exist, 
whether  among  enlightened  or  heathen  nations,  and  it  will  be  found 
that,  while  the  one  concedes  knowledge  and  life,  the  other  involves 
ignorance,  and,  not  unfrequently — death. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

SPIRITUALITY    AND    PASTIME. 

AFTER  service,  in  company  with  several  natives,  I  walked  over 
to  the  village  adjoining,  which  proved  to  be  more  extensive  than 
Keauho.  Its  grove  of  cocoanut-trees  was  delightful.  Like  the 
entire  sea-board  of  Kona,  the  ground  was  covered  with  fragments  of 
lava,  and  near  the  shore  were  the  ruins  of  several  heidus.  They 
seemed  appropriately  located  for  the  celebration  of  infernal  orgies, 


An  Unsympathizing  Relative.  195 

beneath  the  dark  shade  of  the  cocoanut,  where  the  ocean  was 
forever  surging  against  the  rocky '  rampart  on  which  they  were 
built. 

Two  days  before  leaving  the  village,  a  small  coaster  arrived  from 
the  leeward  islands,  and  seeing  some  half  dozen  native  passengers 
enter  a  house,  I  went  in  soon  after  to  ascertain  if  there  was  anything 
new  stirring.  A  young  man  was  bending  over  some  object  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  apartment,  and  apparently  absorbed  in  deep  grief.  On 
inquiry,  I  learned  the  object  of  his  lamentation  was  a  coffin,  contain- 
ing the  remains  of  a  deceased  brother.  This  coffin  was  placed  on 
a  sort  of  dais,  covered  with  a  cloth,  and,  suspended  from  the  rafters, 
was  a  fine  musquito-net,  that  enveloped  it  in  its  folds.  These  relics  of 
mortality  had  thus  been  preserved  for  nearly  two  years,  to  awaken 
at  intervals  the  grief  of  relatives,  whose  abode  was  beneath  the 
same  roof.  This  is  not  a  solitary  instance.  Similar  occurrences 
are  frequent  with  Hawaiians,  who  esteem  it  a  privilege  to  mourn 
over  the  remains  of  departed  friends  and  relatives. 

The  transmigration  of  souls  was  once  a  popular  tenet  of  theirs. 
A  ludicrous  illustration  of  this  occurred  at  Oahu  many  years  ago. 
An  old  man  had  lost  a  relative  which  he  conceived  to  have  become 
metamorphosed  into  a  wild  cow,  that  seriously  retarded  the  growth 
of  his  taro  and  sweet  potatoes.  Being  out  one  day  in  the  field,  he 
discovered  the  object  of  his  solicitude  quietly  feeding  beyond  his 
inclosure,  and  climbing  over  the  fence,  he  proceeded  reverently 
towards  it,  saying,  "  Much  love  to  you  !"  The  cow  raised  her  head, 
and  returned  a  wild  look  for  the  salutation  ;  but  the  other  continued, 
and  calling  his  deceased  relative  by  name,  said : 

"  I've  come  to  see  you  this  morning.  If  you  want  anything,  I'll 
give  it  to  you ;  but  my  bowels  don't  feel  right  towards  you  when  you 
come  into  my  paa  (yard)  and  destroy  my  vegetables,  because  what 
you  don't  eat  you  trample  down." 

But  the  longer  he  discoursed,  the  more  belligerent  was  the  attitude 
assumed  by  the  supposed  relative,  who  refused  to  be  pacified,  and 
with  a  sudden  bellowing,  made  a  headlong  plunge,  whereupon  the 
old  man  threw  down  his  60,  (a  kind  of  spade,)  and  beat  a  precipitate 
retreat  for  the  wall,  which  he  hardly  cleared  as  the  cow  reached  it. 
Then,  without  cherishing  a  vindictive  feeling,  he  turned  calmly 


196  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

around  and  said,  "  That  was  wrong,  for  I  intended  no  harm,  and  you 
know  how  I  love  you." 

A  parallel  incident  occurred  during  my  stay  at  Honuaula.  A 
female,  in  a  state  of  monomania,  swam  from  the  shore  one  night  to  a 
small  rock  which  was  barely  disclosed  at  low  water.  This  place 
is  famous  for  sharks  ;  although  she  could  not  be  seen,  her  voice 
was  heard  amid  the  darkness,  as  she  clung  to  the  rock,  calling  for 
her  deceased  relatives,  whom  she  now  believed  to  be  sharks,  to  as- 
semble around  her.  She  was  relieved  from  her  perilous  situation 
by  a  canoe. 

On  the  northern  side  of  the  harbor  at  Keauho,  the  black  point  of 
lava  extends  for  a  considerable  distance  into  the  sea,  and  in  connec- 
tion with  a  slight  indentation  in  the  shore,  it  forms  a  cove,  where 
the  surf  rolls  heavily.  At  any  hour  of  the  day,  children  might  be 
seen  running  out  on  this  point  with  their  surf-boards.  Watching 
their  opportunity,  they  would  plunge  into  the  sea  between  two 
rollers,  with  exceedingly  nice  judgment,  reaching  the  wave  at 
its  culminating  point,  and  just  as  it  was  "  combing,"  shoot  in  upon 
its  crest,  amid  foam  and  spray,  with  the  velocity  of  a  race-horse, 
and  shouting  in  wild  delight. 

What  the  sled  is  to  the  child  at  home,  the  papa,  or  surf-board,  is  to 
the  juveniles  of  Hawaii.  I  determined  one  morning  to  join  them 
in  their  sport ;  and  having  signified  my  intention,  about  twenty  girls, 
of  various  ages,  and  a  dozen  boys,  promised  to  give  me  instruction. 
I  preferred  confiding  myself  to  the  management  of  tne  two  oldest 
girls,  who  were  more  experienced.  A  board,  four  feet  in  length,  and 
rounded  at  both  ends,  was  provided  for  me.  This,  when  used,  is 
placed  beneath  the  breast  and  held  firmly  between  the  extended 
arms,  at  an  angle  of  about  fifteen  degrees  with  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  boys  wore  mdlos,  the  girls,  loose  gowns ;  and  not  wishing  to  be 
encumbered  with  superfluous  "  gear,"  I  adopted  the  fashion  of  the 
former.  The  shore  receded  quickly,  so  that  at  a  distance  of  ten 
yards  we  were  beyond  our  depth.  The  surf  rolled  in  heavily,  and 
with  my  two  instructresses  on  either  side,  I  swam  seaward.  The 
spent  rollers  we  suffered  to  pass  beneath  us,  but  as  our  distance  from 
the  shore  increased,  they  were  not  to  be  disregarded  ;  and  when  we 
saw  a  wall  of  water  rise  up  before  us,  and  come  rolling  in  like  an 


Surf  Riding.  197 


avalanche,  we  dove  beneath  it,  while  it  broke  and  foamed  above  us. 
I  should  have  said  that  /  dove,  for,  like  fishes,  the  girls  could  sink 
at  will,  and  without  any  apparent  effort.  This  peculiarity  I  have 
also  noticed  among  the  pearl-divers  of  the  Southern  Ocean,  who,  by 
giving  a  slight  spring  upward,  sink  easily,  and  turn  beneath  the 
surface.  I  have  frequently  attempted  it,  but  without  success,  though 
by  trial  have  remained  under  water  as  long  as  expert  divers. 

The  breakers  were  frightful.  Though  a  good  swimmer,  and 
familiar  with  winds  and  waves,  I  would  never  think  of  buffeting 
voluntarily  such  a  formidable  array  of  cataracts  without  a  host  of 
guardians.  The  roar  was  incessant,  and  almost  deafening;  still,  we 
kept  on.  It  is  a  strange  sight  to  see  the  horizon  of  vision  contract- 
ing before  you  and  rising  rapidly  towards  the  zenith,  until  you  look 
upon  an  impending  wall  of  liquid  blue,  imperceptibly  melting  to  a 
delicate  pea-green  with  a  snowy  crest.  There  is  a  commingling  of 
beauty  and  sublimity,  of  stern  majesty  and  power.  It  is  the  mighty 
bolt  that  shatters  the  groaning  timbers  of  the  ship,  and  scatters  the 
fragments  upon  the  froth  of  its  rage.  But  my  fair  guardians  mocked 
its  impotence.  With  a  laugh  and  a  shout,  saying,  "Lu  kakou"  (let 
us  dive,)  each  clasped  a  hand,  and  in  tranquil  depths  we  hid  from 
the  billow  that  thundered  above  us. 

Having  obtained  a  suitable  distance,  we  waited  for  a  roller,  and 
started  upon  its  crest ;  but  the  art  of  surf-riding  is  not  so  simple  as 
it  would  seem.  With  my  companions  on  either  side,  I  flew  rapidly 
along  for  a  few  seconds  ;  but  somehow  or  other  the  wave  always 
receded  and  left  me  in  the  lurch,  while  they  shot  ahead  in  a  sea  of 
foam.  I  sported  in  this  way  for  fifteen  minutes,  until  a  roller  caught 
me  as  it  broke,  and  wrenching  the  board  from  my  hands,  whirled 
me  along  in  every  conceivable  attitude  ;  and  on  recovering  from  the 
shock,  I  was  compelled  to  abandon  my  aquatic  sports  for  the 
remainder  of  the  day.  After  bathing  in  the  sea,  the  girls  always 
pour  fresh  water  over  each  other,  carefully  washing  their  dark 
tresses,  for  they  say  salt  water  impairs  their  beauty. 

While  receiving  cargo,  we  were  pleased  with  an  instance  of  na- 
tive economy.  A  large  proportion  of  the  sweet  potatoes  purchased 
came  from  the  districts  adjoining,  and  were  transported  to  Keauho  in 
canoes.  One  of  these  diminutive  transports,  heavily  laden,  came 


198  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

alongside,  and  by  some  mismanagement,  the  upper  tier  of  baskets  fell 
into  the  water,  and  the  contents  of  some  were  scattered  upon  the 
sandy  bottom,  or  among  the  coral  branches,  where,  at  a  depth  of 
twelve  feet,  they  could  be  distinctly  seen.  The  owner,  an  old  man, 
had  no  idea  of  permitting  the  sacrifice  ;  so,  divesting  himself  of  his 
garments,  and  with  a  basket  in  one  hand,  he  dove  down  and  com- 
menced filling  it.  After  remaining  below  as  long  as  he  could,  he 
would  ascend  to  the  surface  and  empty  it,  repeating  the  process  until 
he  had  collected  all.  The  baskets  that  had  not  burst  were  more 
easily  disposed^of,  for  taking  down  a  rope,  he  attached  it  to  them,  and 
they  were  drawn  up. 

At  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  land-breeze  blowing  freshly,  we 
cast  adrift  our  moorings,  weighed  anchor,  and  stood  out  of  the  har- 
bor. With  a  pleasant  breeze,  we  reached  Lahaina  the  same  day. 

Again  I  would  beg  the  reader's  indulgence  for  the  interval  that 
must  necessarily  occur  while  rambling  upon  Asiatic  shores  and 
islands  in  the  Eastern  Archipelago  ;  promising  that  our  next  visit  to 
this  group  shall  be  brief  and  final. 


CHAPTER   XXII. 

THE     GREEN    HILLS    OF    HILO. 

ONCE  more,  O  Hawaii !  we  view  thy  snowy  peaks,  rising  like 
"twin  giants"  above  the  blue  wave,  thy  broad  belt  of  forest  en- 
shrouded by  white  rolling  clouds.  The  barren  cliff,  the  woody  hill, 
the  winding  valley,  and  the  grassy  plain,  all  harmoniously  blended 
in  the  distance,  fading  and  glowing  in  shadow  and  sunshine  :  but, 
above — above  all ! — those  hoary  summits  !  rising  solemn  and  grand 
in  the  clear  cold  sky,  where  cheerless  sunbeams  glitter  upon  their 
everlasting  snows. 

It  was  a  pleasant  morning  as  we  bounded  rapidly  along  before 
the  N.  E.  trades,  towards  Hilo,  the  paradise  of  Hawaii  ;  having 
received  our  pilot  on  board,  at  noon  we  were  safely  anchored  in  its 


The  Paradise  of  Hawaii.  199 

ample  bay.  All  who  have  visited  Hilo  concur  in  admiring  its  scen- 
ery. The  bold  outline  of  Mauna  Loa  and  Mauna  Kea,  in  the  back- 
ground ;  the  broad  lands,  sweeping  gradually  up  to  the  clouds,  diver- 
sified by  valleys,  gentle  declivities,  and  scattered  groves,  watered  by 
sparkling  streams  that  wind  among  them  and  empty  into  the  bay, 
render  it,  for  beauty  and  sublimity  combined,  unrivalled  by  any  other 
view  in  the  Pacific.  The  town  itself  would  hardly  be  noticed,  so 
dense  is  the  grove  that  conceals  it.  Here,  the  dark  foliage  of  the 
bread-fruit  is  relieved  by  sprinklings  of  the  bright  candlenut ;  and 
the  tender  leaves  of  the  plantain,  fringed  by  the  wanton  breeze  that 
rustles  through  them,  are  in  pleasing  contrast  with  clusters  of  the 
sombre  pandanus.  As  if  to  add  an  exquisite  finish  to  the  landscape, 
slender  annulated  trunks  of  the  cocoa-palm  have  been  scattered 
through  the  groves  and  upon  the  sandy  margin  of  the  bay,  nodding  to 
the  gale  that  sports  with  their  waving  plumes. 

When  the  shades  of  evening  were  reposing  on  land  and  sea,  I 
have  frequently  watched  the  glimmering  of  lights  far  up  the  moun- 
tain-side, sometimes  flashing  up  and  as  suddenly  disappearing,  then 
burning  steadily,  betokening  habitations  unnoticed  in  the  broad  glare 
of  day.  Near  the  shore  the  beacons  were  more  frequent,  and 
around  the  vast  semicircle  of  the  bay  bright  fires  flashed  at  in- 
tervals amid  the  dark  grpves.  These,  together  with  the  cheerful 
sound  of  voices  in  harmony  with  the  faint  roar  of  the  surf,  combined 
to  form  a  pleasing  picture  of  Polynesian  tranquillity. 

The  harbor,  or  bay,  derives  its  name  from  the  town,  and  is  situ- 
ate on  the  N.  E.  side  of  the  island,  forming  a  safe  anchorage  for  ves- 
sels against  all  winds,  except  from  the  northeast.  Near  the  south- 
east shore  there  is  a  rocky  islet  covered  with  cocoanut-trees  ;  and 
from  this  Cowards  the  N.  E.  extends  a  shoal  for  a  long  distance  ;  so 
that  the  entrance  is  on  the  western  side,  where  the  land  is  bold  and 
the  water  deep.  During  a  strong  northeast  wind,  the  sea  rolls  in 
heavily,  and  the  shore  is  lined  with  breakers.  On  these  occasions 
boats  from  vessels,  instead  of  effecting  a  difficult  landing  on  the  west- 
ern side,  which  is  most  thickly  settled,  usually  resort  to  the  south- 
ern shore,  where  a  small  stream  affords  them  a  secure  retreat. 
This  is  called  Waiakea,  and  waters  the  district  of  that  name,  consti- 
tuting the  southern  boundary  of  Hilo.  The  soil  of  this  district  and 


200  Reef-Rouings  in  the  South  Seas. 

its  vicinity  is  exceedingly  prolific.  Sugar-cane  and  coffee  have  been 
cultivated  to  a  considerable  extent ;  and  these,  together  vfiili  pulu,  a 
soft  silky  substance  that  grows  in  the  mountains,  and  used  for 
upholstering  purposes,  are  its  staple  exports.  A  defect,  if  such  it 
can  be  called,  is  its  climate,  which  is  too  moist.  Showers  are  of 
almost  daily  occurrence,  but  they  serve  to  array  nature  in  her  bright- 
est colors. 

The  day  after  our  arrival,  Captain  C and  I  landed  to  pay  our 

respects  to  B.  Pittman,  Esq.,  an  American,  and  collector  of  this 
port.  Following  the  road  from  the  beach,  we  soon  came  in  sight  of 
his  premises.  The  residence,  a  thatched-roof  cottage,  is  situated  in 
a  garden,  ornamented  by  shade-trees,  flowering  shrubs,  and  choice 
exotics,  tastefully  laid  out  in  walks  and  parterres,  and  the  whole  kept 
in  beautiful  order  by  Amoy  coolies.  The  effect  was  also  heightened 
by  the  appearance  of  the  roads  leading  to  and  in  front  of  them,  for 
they  were  clean  and  free  from  weeds,  all  other  obstructions  being 
removed.  Several  neat  dwellings  have  also  been  erected  in  yards 
adjoining,  for  the  accommodation  of  guests  or  friends  who  resort  to 
Hilo  to  enjoy  its  scenery  and  the  hospitality  of  their  entertainer.  By 
this  laudable  display  of  taste  and  industry,  Mr.  Pittman  has  thrown 
around  him  the  comforts  and  associations  of  an  American  home,  and 
has  constituted  himself  the  enviable  possessor  of  the  most  beautiful 
homestead  in  the  group.  Its  merits  are  not  confined  to  externals 
alone,  as  those  can  testify  who  have  been  the  recipients  of  his  hos- 
pitality. 

Hilo  is  one  continuous  grove,  bisected  by  a  road  a  short  distance 
from  and  running  parallel  with  the  shore.  On  either  side  are  scat- 
tered native  habitations,  or  the  more  substantial  residences  of  for- 
eigners. 

The  premises  of  Mr.  Coan,  the  resident  missionary,  adjoin  those  of 
Mr.  P .  They  are  charmingly  located  upon  a  commanding  emi- 
nence ;  but  whatever  attractions  the  interior  of  the  residence  may  pos- 
sess, viewed  externally,  the  whole  is  a  style  of  architecture  strangely 
at  variance  with  a  tropical  landscape.  The  sharp  gables  and  the 
shingled  roof,  clipped  primly  off  to  the  clap-boards,  remind  one  of  a 
snug  little  New-England  homestead  nestling  beneath  the  shade  of 
birch  and  maple.  Though  wanting  in  artistic  effect,  there  is  a  moral 


"  Maid  of  the  Mist."  201 

connected  with  it  that  impresses  an  observer  favorably  ;  for  we  may 
reasonably  suppose  that  its  possessor  still  retains  the  primitive  tastes 
of  his  native  land,  and  for  confirmation  it  is  unnecessary  to  look 
beyond  the  cordial  hospitality  extended  to  the  visitor,  whose  habits 
and  pursuits  accord  with  the  requirements  of  social  intercourse. 

Beyond  the  neat  inclosure,  and  towards  "the  sea,  there  is  a  broad 
open  space,  surrounded  by  groves,  and  watered  by  a  sparkling  rill 
that  ripples  through  it.  It  is  a  kind  of  public  pleasure-ground,  where 
happy  groups  may  romp  to  their  hearts'  content  over  the  bright 
green-sward. 

Three  streams  disembogue  into  the  bay ;  one  of  them,  Wailuku, 
rises  among  the  hills  of  Mauna  Kea,  and  after  pursuing  its  serpen- 
tine course  for  several  miles  towards  the  sea,  pours  over  a  ledge  of 
basaltic  rocks  into  a  deep  round  basin  ;  when  the  volume  of  water  is 
heavy,  owing  to  rains,  and  the  sunlight  unobscured,  the  "  maid  of  the 
mist"  rises  brightly  from  its  clear  waters,  and  this  constitutes  the 
Rainbow  Fall  of  Hilo.  •  The  stream  then  winds  through  a  val- 
ley, foaming  among  rocks,  until  it  reaches  the  shore.  The  other 
two,  of  less  extent.  Wailaina  and  Waiakea,  bubble  up  in  springs  not 
far  inland,  forming  several  large  fish-ponds  or  preserves  in  their 
course,  (a  royal  prerogative,)  arid  empty  on  the  south  side  of  the 
bay.  Waiakea  is  tolerably  deep,  and  I  have  paddled  a  canoe  upon 
its  clear  waters  for  nearly  half  a  mile,  until  it  became  obstructed 
by  the  inclosure  for  the  ponds.  The  fish  that  inhabit  them  are  a 
species  of  mullet,  and  are  much  esteemed  by  the  chiefs  for  their  del- 
icacy of  flavor. 

After  dinner,  at  Mr.  Pittman's  request,  I  mounted  his  horse,  and 
with  a  native  boy  for  a  guide,  visited  the  Rainbow  Fall.  The 
ascent  was  by  a  narrow  path,  through  cultivations  of  coffee,  sugar- 
cane, taro,  plantains,  melons,  &c.,  and  after  a  short  ride  we 
reached  the  scattered  hamlet,  situated  in  the  immediate  vicin- 
ity of  the  fall.  The  occupants  levy  contributions  upon  amateurs 
and  others  visiting  this  spot,  by  tendering  their  services  in  a 
variety  of  ways,  such  as  holding  the  bridle  while  the  horse 
feeds,  watching  your  garments,  which  have  been  deposited  upon  a 
rock,  while  you  enjoy  the  luxury  of  a  bath,  or  telling  you  what  you 
already  know.  The  best  view  is  obtained  from  the  lower  side, 


202  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

where  maybe  seen  at  a  glance  the  fall,  with  its  dark  cavern  behind, 
the  deep  basin,  and  the  amphitheatre  of  terraced  rock,  covered  with 
a  luxuriant  growth  of  fern,  nourished  by  the  spray  and  humid  atmos- 
phere. The  bed  of  the  stream  above  the  fall  is  broad  and  rocky,  but 
in  the  absence  of  much  rain,  is  confined  to  narrow  limits.  This  tor- 
rent has  worn  deep  and  smooth  reservoirs  in  the  rock  ;  at  the  time 
I  visited  them,  the  stream  being  comparatively  low,  they  had  no  con- 
nection with  it,  and  in  one  of  these  smooth  basins  I  enjoyed  a  re- 
freshing bath. 

Not  far  from  its  mouth,  and  where  it  is  intersected  by  the  road 
passing  through  the  town,  the  course  of  the  stream  is  among  rocks, 
frequently  broken  by  miniature-  cascades  and  foaming  rapids  ;  in 
one  spot  there  is  a  broad,  deep  pool,  bounded  on  the  left  by  a 
precipitous  cliff.  During  the  latter  part  of  the  afternoon,  its  banks 
are  lined  with  boys  and  girls,  who  resort  here  to  bathe.  We  have 
often  amused  ourselves  by  tossing  reals  or  medios  into  the  water, 
and  seeing  the  children  leap  from  an  elevation  of  twenty  or  thirty 
feet,  and  catch  them  before  they  reach  the  bottom. 

Hilo  is  the  rendezvous  for  all  who  purpose  visiting  the  celebrated 
crater  of  Kilauea,  which  is  distant  thirty  miles,  or  a  day's  travel, 
though  a  day  and  a  half  are  usually  required  for  the  journey.  This 
celebrated  volcano  is  in  the  district  of  Puna,  in  a  southwest  direc- 
tion from  the  town,  and  its  locality  is  indicated  by  the  snow-covered 
summit  of  Mauna  Loa  that  rises  above  it. 

Until  within  a  recent  period,  Hilo  has  been  spared  the  inundations 
of  lava  that  have  devastated  the  southern  and  western  shores  of 
this  island  ;  but  in  the  spring  of  1852,  an  eruption  of  lava  occurred 
in  the  forest,  several  miles  in  the  rear  of  the  town,  communicating 
with  the  great  crater  by  a  subterranean  passage.  The  molten  mass 
ran  slowly  seaward,  destroying  forests  and  vegetation,  filling  valleys 
and  levelling  mounds,  attended  by  the  ordinary  volcanic  phenomena, 
and  as  its  sluggish  course  was  watched,  it  was  at  one  time  feared 
that  Hilo  would  be  swept  away.  But  after  vomiting  forth  lava 
for  several  days,  and  scattering  over  the  town  cinders  and  the  light 
capillary  glass,  called  "  The  Hair  of  Pele,"  the  fires  of  this  new 
crater  suddenly  ceased,  leaving  a  wide  field  of  ruin  and  desolation. 
Although  they  have  remained  quiescent  since  that  period,  I  noticed 


"The  HairofPele."  203 

one  morning  a  low  white  cloud  hanging  over  the  spot,  the  more 
remarkable  as  in  no  other  portion  of  the  atmosphere  was  a  vapor  to 
be  seen,  and  by  the  aid  of  a  telescope,  I  saw  columns  of  steam 
shooting  up  from  black  chasms,  or  slowly  ascending  from  the  fissures 
that  rent  the  dark  mass  in  every  direction. 

One  night  while  on  board  the  ship,  I  was  awakened- by  Captain 

B ,  to  look  at  the  reflection  of  the  fires  of  Kilauea  upon  the  sky. 

The  whole  southwestern  firmament  was  in  a  tremulous  glow,  like 
that  occasioned  by  a  vast  conflagration  ;  there  was  not  a  cloud  to  be 
seen,  and  the  stars,  though  clear  overhead,  were  obscured  in  that 
direction  by  the  intense  brightness. 

Hilo,  for  a  few  years  past,  has  been  a  port  of  entry,  and  is  becom- 
ing a  favorite  place  of  resort  for  whalers  ;  I  have  counted  eighteen 
in  the  harbor  at  once  ;  in  this  respect  it  ranks  next  to  Lahaina.  Its 
commerce  is  principally  coastwise,  few  vessels  lading  here  for 
foreign  ports,  and  its  produce,  and  that  of  the  districts  adjoining,  is 
usually  conveyed  to  Honolulu  and  Lahaina  for  reshipment.  The 
potatoes  with  which  whalers  are  supplied  are  brought  around  from 
the  district  of  Waimea,  for  they  do  not  appear  to  thrive  in  the  humid 
atmosphere  of  Hilo.  Before  leaving  the  place,  I  visited  Kilauea, 
and  the  incidents  of  the  journey  will  be  reserved  for  the  following 
chapter. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

A    TRIP    TO   KILAUEA. 

THE  day  selected  for  our  journey  was  unusually  fine,  and  as  there 
was    neither  ship  nor  visitors  at  Hilo  besides  our  own  and  ourselves, 

I  prevailed  on  Captain  B to  become  a  compagnon  de  voyage. 

Our  rendezvous  was  at  Mr.  Pittnaan's  store ;  and  it  being  generally 
known  that  a  visit  to  Kilauea  was  contemplated  that  morning,  we 
found  quite  a  congregation  of  natives,  some  with  horses  to  hire, 
and  others  to  hire  themselves.  It  was  amusing  to  witness  the  com- 


204  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

petition  among  them,  each  vociferating  the  merits  of  his  beast,  while 
those  of  his  neighbors  were  either  "•  spavined,  knock-kneed,  or  wind- 
broken." 

We  could  not  please  all,  but  engaged  a  couple  of  horses  at  the 
ordinary  price,  ten  dollars  each ;  also  a  native  boy,  about  sixteen 
years  of  age,  and  a  man  to  carry  our  blankets  and  sleeping  clothes. 
These  were  disposed  of  in  large  calabashes  suspended  to  a  pole, 
which  our  attendant  carried  across  his  shoulder. 

We  started  away  at  nine  o'clock,  intending  to  pass  the  night  at 
the  half-way  house.  After  crossing  Waiakea,  we  travelled  through 
the  district  of  Puna,  on  the  western  boundary  of  which  the  crater 
is  situated.  I  had  supposed  that  on  leaving  Hilo  we  would  com- 
mence the  ascent  of  the  mountain  immediately,  but  instead,  the  road 
is  across  a  beautiful  tract  of  country,  wild,  or  but  partially  cultivated, 
having  hardly  a  habitation  to  relieve  its  solitude.  We  rode  slowly, 
and  the  natives  had  no  difficulty  in  keeping  up  with  us.  At  noon 
we  stopped  at  a  small  hamlet  by  the  roadside,  where,  after  dis- 
mounting and  giving  our  horses  free  range,  we  went  to  a  house  and 
ordered  some  refreshment.  Here  we  remained  long  enough  for  our 
entertainers  to  roast  a  fowl  and  boil  some  taro,  after  which  we 
mounted  and  continued  our  journey.  Though  a  long  distance  from 
the  sea-shore,  our  ascent  had  been  so  gradual  as  to  be  imperceptible, 
and  it  was  only  as  we  advanced  that  the  increasing  coolness  of  the 
atmosphere  indicated  our  elevation.  We  had  passed  through  but 
one  small  copse  of  woodland,  and  at  the  place  where  we  halted,  the 
country  was  open,  and  the  land  uneven  and  rocky,  being  thickly 
covered  with  coarse  grass  and  fern.  An  extensive  and  gently 
undulating  plain  was  crossed,  covered  with  a  beautiful  mantle  of 
waving  ferns,  stretching  away  as  far  as  the  eye -could  reach.  It 
was  perfectly  straight,  and  the  soil  being  a  rich  vegetable  mould,  we 
were  somewhat  inconvenienced  by  the  mud.  While  admiring  the 
wildness  of  the  scenery,  we  could  not  but  regret  that  so  much  valua- 
ble land  was  suffered  to  remain  uncultivated.  The  sites  are  eligible 
for  plantations  ;  and  there  being  no  impassable  ravines  or  obstacles 
to  hinder  the  construction  of  broad  roads,  easy  access  could  be  had 
to  Hilo,  and  a  prolific  soil  would  yield  an  ample  harvest. 

About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  we  diverged  from  the  main  road 


Native  Shampooing.  205 


to  one  on  our  right,  and  this  looked  more  like  ascending  than  any- 
thing we  had  yet  seen,  for  a  hill  rose  up  some  distance  ahead  of  us. 
Before  reaching  it,  the  road  became  almost  impassably  muddy,  the 
horses  sinking  nearly  to  their  knees  at  every  step  ;  but  having  at- 
tained the  eminence,  the  path  became  firmer,  and  the  continued 
ascent  more  perceptible.  Here  was  first  encountered  the  pahoihoi, 
(satin  rock,)  or  exposed  lava  of  peculiar  conformation,  smooth  and 
uneven,  and  over  this  our  progress  was  slow.  Small  hamlets  were 
occasionally  passed,  and  at  one  of  these  a  woman  came  out  to 
inquire  where  we  were  going.  On  being  informed,  she  replied : 
"Nui  loa  ka  ahi  ma  ka  lLua  o  Pele*  keia  manewa  /''  (the  fire  now  at 
the  cave  of  Pele  is  exceedingly  great.)  Pele  was  the  goddess  in 
Hawaiian  mythology  who  came  with  her  family  from  lands  beyond 
the  heaven,  (horizon,)  and  took  up  her  abode  in  the  crater  ;  hence 
the  native  name,  the  "  Cave  of  Pele." 

We  jogged  on  until  the  half-way  house  was  reached,  from  which 
it  is  only  half  a  day's  ride  to  the  volcano.  In  this  district,  houses 
were  scattered  along  at  no  great  distance  from  each  other,  but  the 
whole  picture  was  lonely  in  the  extreme.  The  uncultivated  soil, 
partially  covering  rugged  rocks,  the  distant  forest  in  gloom,  and  the 
chilling  aspect  of  the  mountains,  with  the  now  inconveniently  cool 
atmosphere,  were  in  striking  contrast  to  the  scenes  we  had  left  that 
morning. 

The  shades  of  evening  were  now  setting  in ;  and  being  in  a  per- 
spiration from  the  exertion  of  walking,  for  a  few  miles  back  I  had 
mounted  the  native  boy  in  my  place,  I  felt  thoroughly  chilled  by  the 

sudden  halt,  and  leaving  B to  look  after  the  baggage,  made 

direct  for  the  cook-house,  to  find  warmth  among  its  embers.  This 
was  small,  and  a  miserable  fire  was  smouldering  near  the  centre, 
enough  to  stifle  one  with  its  smoke,  for  there  was  no  aperture  to 
permit  its  escape.  I  found  some  half  dozen  of  both  sexes  rubbing 
their  eyes  ;  and  going  into  their  midst,  divested  myself  of  boots, 
and  reclined  at  full  length  upon  the  mats.  Some  more  brands  were 
thrown  on  to  the  fire,  and  for  a  trifling  compensation,  I  obtained  the 
luxury  of  a  lomilomi.  This  simple  word  conveys  to  those  acquainted 
with  its  meaning,  ideas  of  a  pound,  pinch,  and  squeeze,  and,  when 
properly  performed,  the  process  is  a  universal  remedy  among  Ha- 


206  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

waiians  for  all  diseases,  imaginary  or  real.  I  have  seen  portly 
females  extended  upon  the  mats,  face  downwards,  while  juveniles, 
barefooted,  were  dancing  upon  their  backs,  and  this  they  considered 
a  luxury.  But,  jesting  aside,  the  effect  upon  wearied  limbs  by  the 
manipulations  of  experienced  hands  is  soothing.  We  were  soon 
laughing  and  joking,  for  any  one,  if  so  disposed,  can  make  himself 
perfectly  at  home  in  a  Hawaiian  household,  nor  is  it  looked  upon  as 
an  intrusion  or  undue  familiarity.  Our  conversation  was  interrupted 
by  the  appearance  of  the  host,  who,  for  the  benefit  of  future  visitors, 
I  will  state  was  a  sinner  and  a  hypocrite  ;  harsh  terms,  but  never- 
theless true.  He  may  be  easily  recognized  by  his  stunted  form  and 
ambling  gait,  while  his  eyes  either  stare  at  you  obliquely,  or  are 
bent  upon  the  ground. 

His  abrupt  inquiry  was,  "  What  do  you  want  to  eat  ?" 

I  told  him  the  best  he  had,  and  as  much  of  it  as  he  could  conve- 
niently spare. 

He  stood  for  a  few  seconds  without  replying,  then,  looking  stead- 
ily upon  the  ground,  said,  "  Pigs  are  high." 

"  How  high  r 

"  Four  dollars  for  one  so  long,"  indicating  the  length  by  extending 
his  right  arm,  and  grasping  it  with  his  left  hand  at  the  elbow-joint. 

I  told  him  I  didn't  believe  it,  and  that  I  would  look  elsewhere. 
He  then  gave  me  to  understand  that  he  monopolized  the  neighbor- 
hood. After  considerable  haggling,  he  promised  to  bring  me  one  for 
three  dollars ;  and  this  preliminary  being  settled,  he  told  me  he  didn't 
know  where  he  was  going  to  get  it.  Our  party  was  ravenously 
hungry,  and  this  suspense  was  torturing.  After  he  had  patiently 
listened  to  a  few  imprecations  in  English,  he  suggested,  by  way  of 
consolation,  that  he  could  go  and  look  for  one,  but,  if  the  search 
proved  unsuccessful,  he  was  to  have  a  dollar  for  his  pains.  I  told 
him  I  would  go  myself;  but  to  this  he  replied  good-naturedly, 
that  I  would  lose  my  way  arid  fall  down  on  the  pahoihbi,  (satin 
rock.) 

By  this  time  quite  a  group  had  collected  to  listen  to  the  dispute ; 
and  the  native  we  had  brought  with  us  from  Hilo,  seeing  how  mat- 
ters stood,  and  that  his  prospect  of  a  supper  was  in  vague  perspective, 
remarked  to  the  old  man  that  he  was  naau  po,  (dark-bowelled,)  and 


A  Pig — Expensive  Living.  207 

otherwise  gave  free  utterance  to  his  sentiments.  The  old  extor- 
tioner had  mistaken  his  character.  I  had  lived  too  long  among  Ha- 
waiians  to  be  fleeced  by  them,  if  such  happened  to  be  the  propen- 
sity ;  and  I  required  no  interpreter,  for  I  could  pay  him  back  in  his 
own  tongue.  I  was  willing  to  pay  liberally,  but  was  determined  to 
have  what  was  paid  for  ;  and  it  may  be  inferred  that  we  did  not  stint 
ourselves,  when  the  expenses  of  two  of  us  for  three  days,  in  this 
wilderness,  amounted  to  thirty-three  dollars. 

After  a  while  the  pig  was  forthcoming;  but,  to  our  inexpressible 
annoyance,  he  insisted  on  immediate  payment,  as  if  we  were  not  to 
be  trusted  over  night.  The  pig  was  slaughtered,  dressed,  and  a  por- 
tion roasted.  From  this,  together  with  taro  and  potatoes,  also  pur- 
chased, we  made  a  hearty  supper,  and  after  us  our  natives.  The 
remaining  relics  were  devoured  by  the  old  man,  who  then  assembled 
his  family  and  offered  up  a  fervent  prayer. 

Our  dormitory  was  a  large  grass-house,  having  a  raised  platform 
about  three  feet  high,  extending  through  its  entire  length,  covered 
with  mats,  and  separated  from  the  sitting-room  by  calico  curtains. 
The  night  being  cold,  we  retired  early,  and  wrapping  ourselves  in 
blankets,  enjoyed  a  comfortable  repose. 

By 'morning  I  had  become  acclimated,  and  found  the  mountain  air 
cool  and  invigorating.  Everything  was  covered  with  a  heavy  dew ; 
but  the  melody  of  warblers  was  lacking,  to  give  animation  to  the 
scene.  At  an  early  hour  I  dispatched  the  boy  to  bring  up  the 
horses,  which  had  been  tethered  a  short  distance  off,  while  others 
bustled  about  to  prepare  the  breakfast.  This  important  item  passed 
off  without  ceremony,  and  at  eight  o'clock  we  were  again  under  way. 
An  important  acquisition  to  our  party  was  secured  in  the  person  of 
an  old  native  guide  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  procure  at  this 
place.  I  have  forgotten  his  name.  For  years  he  has  resided  in 
this  vicinity,  and  has  accompanied  visitors  to  the  volcano.  He  was 
intelligent  and  obliging,  a  happy  contrast  to  our  host  of  the  night 
preceding.  He  carried  the  pig  and  vegetables  in  calabashes  sus- 
pended from  a  pole. 

The  road,  after  leaving  this  place,  was  formed  by  laying  poles 
across  the  rugged  lava,  and  covering  them  with  earth,  when  it 
could  be  conveniently  procured.  From  several  houses  women  came 


\ 
208  Reef-Rovings  in  the  /South  Seas. 

out,  offering  bananas  for  sale.  We  purchased  several  bunches,  and 
on  one  occasion,  as  we  could  not  make  the  change,  a  bunch  was 
promised  us  on  our  return.  Beyond  this  settlement  we  lost  all  trace 
of  habitations,  and  indications  of  the  volcano  were  anxiously  looked 
for.  The  land  was  rolling  and  rocky  ;  or,  rather,  it  seemed  one  mass 
of  ancient  lava  scantily  covered  with  soil.  Here  we  saw  the  pulu 
growing  ;  and  in  some  portions  of  the  forest,  the  mountain-fern  grew 
so  high  that  we  could  not  reach  the  top  of  it  while  sitting  upon  our 
horses.  We  were  too  impatient  to  wait  for  our  attendants,  whom 
we  had  long  since  left  behind,  and  had  galloped  on  ;  but  in  the  midst 
of  a  dense  forest  our  road  forked,  and  both  paths  appearing  to  be 

equally  trodden,  we  halted  to  deliberate.  It  was  agreed  that  B 

should  take  the  left  and  I  the  right,  shouting  occasionally  to  each 
other,  to  "  keep  our  bearings."  We  parted,  and  I  recollect  hailing 
once,  but  not  hearing  it  returned,  rode  on  as  fast  as  projecting 
branches  would  permit,  and  in  fifteen  minutes  reached  an  open 
space,  where  I  halted  for  my  companion.  After  a  considerable 
interval  he  emerged  from  the  forest  by  the  same  path  I  had  taken, 
and  reported  that,  having  ridden  on  a  considerable  distance,  all  trace 
of  a  road  vanished,  and  he  was  compelled  to  retrograde. 

His  lynx-eye  soon  detected  a  light  cloud  in  the  distance,  and  in  the 
direction  we  were  travelling ;  this  arose  from  the  crater,  which  we 
were  now  more  anxious  than  ever  to  reach. 

As  we  advanced,  the  road  improved,  with  gradual  descent,  the  soil 
being  composed  of  cinders  and  ashes,  quite  compact,  and  covered 
with  coarse  grass,  and  sometimes  bushes  ;  among  the  latter  was  the 
ohelo,  a  species  of  whortleberry,  and  loaded  with  fruit.  We  gal- 
loped at  full  speed,  and  at  noon,  after  passing  a  low  hill  on  our 
left,  the  grandest  sight  we  ever  beheld  was  before  us. 

It  was  an  extensive  plain,  nearly  twenty  miles  in  circumference, 
extending  to  what  appeared  to  be  the  true  base  of  Mauna  Loa, 
seemingly  as  distant  as  ever,  and  rising  like  a  misty  hummock  to 
bound  it  on  the  west.  Within  the  limits  of  this  plain,  and  five  or  six 
miles  in  circumference,  yawned  the  immense  pit,  a  thousand  feet  in 
depth,  the  southern  portion  obscured  by  fiery  clouds  ;  its  perpendicu- 
lar or  overhanging  walls  of  basalt  rose  darkly  from  its  bed,  at  once 
a  scene  of  grandeur  and  desolation,  flanked  by  bastions  or  rugged 


Ride  around  the  Crater.  209 

promontories,  extending  into  the  congealed  flood  that  in  fiery  waves 
sometimes  surged  against  these  giant  ramparts. 

As  our  guides  had  not  yet  arrived,  we  rode  on  to  the  small  thatch 
hut  that  has  been  erected  on  the  margin  of  the  crater  by  Mr.  Pitt- 
man,  for  the  gratuitous  convenience  of  visitors  ;  standing,  as  it  did, 
alone  in  this  wilderness,  it  looked  the  very  picture  of  solitude. 
Along  our  path  we  occasionally  saw  deep  fissures,  from  which  arose 
light  clouds  of  vapor  ;  a  few  shrubs  and  a  heavy  growth  of  fern 
bounded  the  wide  space  we  were  travelling,  over  which  were  thinly 
scattered  ohelo  bushes.  Having  reached  the  house,  we  halted, 
without  dismounting,  to  enjoy  another  view  of  the  sublime  scene  be- 
fore us,  and  the  magnificent  prospect  on  our  right,  where  Maiina  L6a 
and  Mauna  Kea  bounded,  a  broad  plateau,  diversified  by  hill  and  val- 
ley. The  base  of  the  former  was  dotted  by  what  in  the  distance 
appeared  to  be  scattered  groves,  but  which  were  probably  dense 
forests. 

It  was  now  one  o'clock,  and  Captain  B proposed  "  circum- 
navigating" the  crater  ;  as  we  had  abundance  of  time,  I  readily  con- 
sented. Soon  after  leaving  the  house,  we  passed  an  extensive  bed 
of  volcanic  sulphur,  which  we  subsequently  visited  ;  the  fissures 
in  the  ground  over  which  we  were  travelling  became  more  frequent, 
and  it  was  sometimes  necessary  to  ride  through  a  cloud  of  sulphurous 
vapor,  while  the  dry  earth,  as  we  galloped  on,  sent  back  a  hollow 
sound  beneath  the  hoofs  of  our  horses.  Having  reached  the  most 
elevated  portion  of  the  western  side,  we  halted  again  to  look  at  the 
chaotic  mass  below.  Black  as  the  Stygian  lake,  a  broad  river,  con- 
gealed to  rock,  ran  around  the  entire  extent  of  the  crater,  carefully 
following  the  inequalities  of  its  banks,  forming  coves  and  deep  bays, 
while  the  interior  was  thrown  up  in  the  wildest  confusion,  sometimes 
bounding  the  river  by  rugged  walls  ;  again  huge  masses  were  scat- 
tered about  like  islands,  and  in  several  places  miniature  cones  were 
vomiting  forth  smoke  and  bright  sulphureous  flame. 

B 's  horse  being  somewhat  jaded,  I  took  the  lead,  but  had  not 

galloped  far  before  I  heard  him  shouting  to  me.  On  returning,  I 
found  he  had  lost  my  monkey-jacket,  which,  for  want  of  better 
"  chafing  gear,"  he  had  placed  beneath  him.  As  the  nights  at  this 
elevation  are  cold,  and  not  wishing  to  be  without  sufficient  clothing, 

14 


210  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

I  was  determined  to  find  it,  if  compelled  to  forego  the  pleasure  of 
riding  around  the  crater.  We  had  no  difficulty  in  retracing  our 
steps,  for  the  land  in  this  vicinity  was  free  from  tree  or  shrub, 
though  we  were  sometimes  compelled  to  make  long  detours  to  avoid 
yawning  chasms,  among  which  it  would  be  unsafe  to  venture  in  the 
night.  I  began  to  think  we  would  never  find  it,  but  having  nearly 
reached  the  house,  it  was  discovered  lying  upon  the  verge  of  a 
bottomless  pit,  one  portion  of  it  hanging  over,  and  saturated  with 
the  condensed  steam ;  it  had  been  blown  from  the  road  by  the 
strong  gusts  that  occasionally  swept  across  the  plain.  As  too 
much  time  had  been  consumed  to  think  of  accomplishing  our  pro- 
ject, we  returned  to  the  house,  where  we  found  the  natives  lying 
upon  the  ground  and  eating  ohelos.  Our  baggage  was  deposited 
in  the  house,  where  were  a  few  mats  to  sleep  on,  a  table,  and  a 
small  cupboard,  but  the  house  itself  was  sadly  dilapidated,  being 
doorless,  and  propped  up  on  both  sides  by  stout  poles.  The  boy  un- 
saddled the  horses  and  tethered  them  out  to  feed,  while  the  guide, 
with  the  assistance  of  our  Hilo  man,  set  about  preparing  a  late  din- 
ner. 

The  pig  and  vegetables  were  nicely  wrapped  up  in  stout  leaves 
and  fern,  and  deposited  to  be  cooked  in  one  of  the  fissures,  from 
which  arose  a  cloud  of  steam.  Our  water  was  procured  from  a 
natural  distillery,  a  short  distance  from  the  house  ;  from  a  deep 
chasm  rose  a  dense  cloud  of  vapor,  which  was  condensed  by  the  cold 
air,  and  blown  in  clear  drops  to  a  small  reservoir  on  the  leeward 
side,  around  the  margin  of  which  was  a  luxuriant  growth  of  rushes 
and  fern. 

B and  I  visited  the  sulphur  bank  in  the  vicinity  of  the  house, 

which  is  not  the  least  of  the  many  curiosities  at  Kilauea.  It  is 
reached  by  a  slight  descent,  and  crossing  a  short  level  thickly  in- 
crusted  with  the  mineral.  The  bank  is  of  considerable  extent, 
and  in  many  places  is  rent  by  narrow  fissures,  the  sides  of  which 
are  of  a  light  yellow  color,  and  from  which  noxious  gases  are  con- 
tinually ascending.  We  broke  several  specimens  from  the  bank, 
crystallized  in  beautiful  prisms,  but  of  their  shape  I  had  no  means 
of  judging.  Some  of  them  were  incrusted  with  a  white  substance, 
probably  sulphate  of  ammonia,  which  enhanced  their  beauty.  In 


Perambulations  amid  Sulphur.  211 

walking,  we  noticed  a  peculiar  crunching  sound,  similar  to  that  pro- 
duced by  walking  over  frozen  snow. 

In  the  rear  of  the  house  are  various  chasms,  some  of  them  emit- 
ting steam,  and  others  almost  hidden  by  the  rank  growth  of  fern  and 
bushes.  Into  one  of  these  we  descended  for  a  short  distance,  using 
dry  bushes  for  torches.  It  appeared  to  be  a  large  winding  passage, 
continually  descending,  the  walls  of  which  were  dark  trap  rocks, 
and  into  one  of  its  vaults  I  threw  a  torch,  which  burnt  but  a  moment, 
and  then  disappeared.  There  is  but  little  to  be  gained  by  venturing 
into  these  caverns,  for  the  steam  is  liable  at  any  moment  to  burst 
forth,  which  would  cause  instant  death.  On  ascending,  we  vsaw  a 
light  cloud  escaping  from  a  fissure  near  the  entrance,  unnoticed  dur- 
ing our  descent.  These  are  evidences  of  the  phenomena  peculiar 
to  volcanic  countries,  and  were  probably  occasioned  by  earthquakes, 
which  at  intervals  convulse  Hawaii.  The  vapors  arising  from  them 
would  imply  that  they  have  subterranean  communication  with  the 
great  crater. 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 

THE   THRONE  OF  AN  ANCIENT  GODDESS. 

BY  evening,  our  pig  and  vegetables  were  done  to  a  turn — a  most 
acceptable  repast,  for  we  had  eaten  nothing  since  morning,  except 
ohelo  berries.  The  night  was  clear,  cold,  and  dark  ;  and  as  I  sat  at 
the  entrance  of  our  shelter,  and  looked  out  upon  the  bright  fires 
burning  beneath,  over  which  hung  a  canopy  of  glowing  clouds,  the 
superstitions  of  the  ancient  Hawaiians  connected  with  this  spot 
naturally  recurred  to  me.  This  was  the  throne  of  that  fabled  divinity, 
Pele.  Here,  with  her  fiery  train,  she  swept  over  the  flaming  surges, 
the  sound  of  whose  roaring  was  the  music  of  their  voices  ;  and  here, 
in  her  wild  domain,  she  held  state,  visiting  with  a  deluge  of  fire  all 
who  incurred  her  resentment.  It  is  painful  to  conceive  of  a  my- 
thology so  fearful  as  that  which  fettered  the  minds  of  the  former 


212  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

inhabitants  of  this  group.  The  plebeians  were  physically  bound 
down  to  the  lowest  grade  of  serfdom  at  the  caprice  of  their  lords, 
and  mentally  fettered  by  a  polytheism  as  cruel  as  it  was  extravagant. 
They  were  continually  startled  by  the  recurrence  of  phenomena, 
conjuring  up  frightful  legends,  which  in  the  obscurity  of  ages  had 
become  interwoven  with  the  history  of  their  origin ;  while  over  all 
hung  the  gloom  of  superstition  like  an  incubus. 

In  addition  to  what  I  already  knew  of  this  strange  mythology,  the 
old  guide  amused  us  by  narrating  tales  of  the  divinities  of  Hawaii ; 
also  incidents  that  had  occurred  to  those  visiting  the  volcano.  The 
tale  of  Kamapua  is  familiar  to  most  foreign  residents  of  this  group ; 
but  for  those  who  have  not  heard  of  it,  I  will  briefly  insert  it,  as  an 
illustration  of  the  supernatural  powers  of  the  fabled  goddess. 

This  Kamapua  was  a  huge  monster,  the  centaur  of  Hawaii ;  for  he 
was  half  hog  and  half  man.  His  original  residence  appears  to  have 
been  Oahu,  but  becoming  dissatisfied  with  its  narrow  limits,  he 
roamed  abroad  generally :  being  something  of  a  gallant  in  disposi- 
tion, he  found  it  convenient  to  visit  Kilauea,  where  he  made  pro- 
posals to  Pele,  the  elder  branch  of  the  fire-loving  family.  She  had 
the  good  sense  to  reject  his^advances  with  scorn  ;  and  adding  insult 
to  injury,  called  him  "  a  hog,  and  the  son  of  a  hog,"  and  arose  from 
her  flaming  bed  with  her  sisters  to  drive  him  away.  But  this  was 
no  easy  task,  for  Kamapua  reached  the  ocean  by  a  few  strides,  some 
twenty  miles  distant,  and  sucking  in  seas  at  a  draught,  he  returned 
and  vomited  them  into  the  crater,  to  the  consternation  of  its  divinities, 
who  sent  forth  volleys  of  burning  stones  and  clouds  of  smoke  and 
ashes,  in  the  shade  of  which  Kamapua  would  retreat  to  the  sea. 
This  fierce  combat  continued  for  some  time,  until  Pele,  summoning 
new  powers  to  her  aid,  hurled  forth  her  molten  torrents,  and  drove 
him  into  the  ocean,  amid  flaming  volleys,  and  thunder  and  lightning. 

Our  boy,  who  took  care  of  the  horses,  had  by  this  time  torn  his 
clothes  to  shreds  among  the  bushes  and  rocks.  As  he  complained  of 
the  cold,  I  gave  him  a  pair  of  silk  pejamas  I  had  brought  to  sleep 
in ;  and  the  guide  having  made  a  short  prayer,  we  retired  for  the 
night. 

The  following  morning  was  cold  and  clear.  After  partaking  of 
an  early  breakfast,  preparations  were  made  for  our  descent  to  the 


Descent  into  the  Crater.  213 

bed  of  the  crater.  It  was  arranged  that  the  boy,  who  had  no  shoes, 
should  remain  at  the  house  to  look  after  the  horses  and  baggage,  and 

to  have  dinner  ready  on  our  return.  B ,  following  the  example 

of  the  guide,  had  provided  himself  with  a  pole  the  day  previous,  to 
"  sound"  as  he  went  along  ;  for  old  salts,  who  are  forever  fussing  over 
spun-yarn  and  rigging,  acquire  habits  of  observation,  while  I,  being 
naturally  improvident,  had  overlooked  this  important  item,  and  which 

it  was  now  too  late  to  remedy.  Accordingly,  the  guide  and  B 

took  the  lead.  I  followed,  the  Hilo  man  bringing  up  the  rear  with 
a  canteen  of  water  and  the  fragments  of  our  breakfast. 

About  forty  feet  below  the  margin  of  the  crater,  at  the  point  of 
descent,  is  a  level  space  covered  with  vegetation ;  and  here,  within 
what  was  no  doubt  its  original  bound,  we  saw  a  small  grass- 
house  built  by  Mr.  Coan,  and  occupied  by  him  during  his  visits  to 
the  volcano.  Our  descent  was  continued  among  irregular  fissures 
or  chasms  and  trees,  until  we  reached  another  division  or  broad 
level  spot,  affording  a  convenient  resting-place.  By  the  path,  we 
saw  a  large  rock,  on  which  was  faintly  traced,  "  Kamehameha ;" 
also,  chiselled  into  it,  the  words,  "  Boyd,  yacht  Wanderer."  We 
found  the  descent  very  fatiguing  down  the  steep  ridges,  our  path 
being  obstructed  by  broken  ledges  and  fragments  of  lava ;  but  at 
eight  o'clock  we  stood  on  the  bed  of  the  crater,  hemmed  in  by  its 
rocky  amphitheatre. 

The  atmosphere  was  unpleasantly  hot,  and  over  some  portions 
of  the  lava  there  was  a  tremulous  glow,  such  as  may  be  seen 
arising  from  a  furnace.  Our  course  at  first  lay  over  the  black 
flood  we  had  noticed  from  above,  the  surface  of  which  resembled 
a  river  filled  with  blocks  of  ice  and  suddenly  congealed.  It  was 
cool,  solid,  and  easily  passed.  But  our  guide  soon  called  our  at- 
tention to  a  shining,  vitreous  mass,  that  looked  like  molten  iron, 
poured  out  and  cooled.  This  was  a  recent  eruption  of  lava,  the 
reflection  of  whose  light  we  had  seen  a  few  evenings  previous,  and 
we  were  compelled  to  make  a  long  detour  to  avoid  it,  as  it  was 
unapproachable  on  account  of  its  heat.  In  some  places,  a  thin  crust 
over  the  surface  we  were  travelling  crumbled  at  every  step  like 
frozen  snow.  On  our  right  was  an  immense  black  wall,  thrown  up 
in  fearful  confusion,  and  which  seemed  to  rise  like  an  island  from 


214  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

the  congealed  sea  around  it.  In  some  places  the  surface  was  com- 
paratively smooth,  reposing  in  gentle  undulations  like  the  waves  of 
the  sea  ;  and  again,  having  been  rent  by  a  mighty  convulsion,  a  por- 
tion would  project  like  a  ledge  above  that  beneath  it.  We  were  often 
startled  by  fearful  detonations,  that  seemed  to  jar  the  igneous  masses 
over  which  we  were  cautiously  picking  our  way ;  and  at  inter- 
vals, a  hollow,  rumbling  sound,  and  columns  of  white,  sulphurous 
vapor,  bursting  upward,  betokened  the  appalling  gulf  we  were  ap- 
proaching. As  the  chasms  became  more  frequent,  we  were  com- 
pelled to  leap  them,  with  the  fire  glowing  but  a  foot  beneath  us,  and 
in  one  place  I  stooped  down  and  lighted  a  cheroot.  A  short  distance 
on  our  left,  the  semi-fluid  lava  that  had  overflowed  its  confines  a  few 
days  previous,  wound  its  way  among  dark  Plutonic  rocks  that 
frowned  above  it. 

After  traversing  the  bed  of  the  crater  nearly  three  miles,  we 
ascended  a  slight  eminence  and  stood  upon  the  brink  of  the  burning 
lake.  It  was  a  pit,  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  about 
fifty  feet  in  depth ;  but  as  narrow  as  were  its  limits,  it  contained  a 
sight  of  fearful  grandeur.  In  the  centre,  a  dark  molten  mass  was 
rolling  its  sluggish  waves  towards  the  east,  while  across  it,  in  every 
direction,  serpentine  streaks  of  bright  red  lava  wove  a  fiery  net- 
work. The  east  and  western  portions  were  in  a  state  of  terrific 
ebullition,  tossed  and  whirling  in  waves  of  fire,  like  surf  against  a 
rocky  rampart ;  and  the  sound  that  arose  from  this  burning  pit  was 
like  the  roar  of  a  mighty  furnace.  At  times,  a  bluish  or  sulphurous 
flame  would  sweep  o'er  its  surface,  then  quickly  disappear,  and  the 
fearful  blasts  of  the  fiery  whirlwind  seemed  lulled  to  repose,  or 
dying  away  in  ominous  rumblings  like  the  reverberations  of  distant 
thunder.  But  it  was  the  awful  calm  that  heralds  the  impending 
storm ;  for  suddenly,  from  the  Cyclopean  furnace,  bellowing  throats 
vomited  upward  blood-red  jets,  and  as  if  lashed  into  fury,  a  tempest 
of  spectral  waves  danced  upon  its  surface,  or  whirled  amid'  fiery 
maelstroms  ;  while,  at  intervals,  fearful  detonations  seemed  to  rend 
the  bowels  of  the  earth,  and  spherical  masses  of  fusing  lava,  flam- 
ing and  hissing,  were  flung  heavenward,  to  fall  back  into  the 
abyss. 

We  gazed  upon  this  fearful  scene  in  silence,  transfixed,  as  if  we 


Thoughts  in  a  Volcano.  215 

stood  in  the  presence  of  a  basilisk,  each  absorbed  in  his  own  reflec- 
tions, and  every  thought,  save  inspirations  of  the  all-impressive  scene, 
buried  in  oblivion.  Like  its  great  prototype,  the  mind  loves  to  con- 
template ;  no  theme  is  too  vast,  no  object  too  minute  to  convey  an 
impression  ;  it  is  this  delicate  susceptibility  to  externals  that  affects 
our  spiritual  being,  awakening,  in  accordance  with  the  sublimity  of 
conception,  ideas  of  which  language  is  no  exponent,  and  revealing 
a  well-spring  of  future  thought.  We  gaze  upon  the  tranquil  beauty 
of  a  landscape  with  delight,  while  its  ever-varying  features  lend  the 
brightest  conceptions  of  poetic  imagery,  and  analyzing  our  emotions, 
they  yield  gratitude  and  love  ;  the  roar  of  a  cataract  or  mountain  tor- 
rent inspires  us  with  its  grandeur;  but  when  standing  in  the  bowels  of  the 
earth,  hemmed  in  by  walls  of  adamant,  with  a  flaming  vortex  on  one 
hand,  and  the  chaotic  wreck  of  nature  on  the  other,  the  mind  is 
overwhelmed  with  conflicting  emotions,  and  humiliated  by  the  stern 
comment  on  its  insignificance.  I  had  gazed  upon  that  watery 
avalanche,  Niagara,  hurrying  to  its  deep  abyss,  but  with  emotions 
vastly  different  from  those  awakened  while  standing  in  the  crater  of 
Kilauea  ;  with  the  former,  the  face  of  nature  was  unchanged  ;  the 
same  rainbow  enwreathed  its  clouds,  its  waters  spake  with  unvarying 
tone,  while  the  stern  majesty  of  its  beauty  was  in  harmony  with  sur- 
rounding objects.  But  in  Kilauea,  we  are  shut  out  from  every  ves- 
tige of  life,  in  the  presence  of  a  more  fearful  element,  and  startled 
by  recurring  phenomena  ;  with  a  vast  plain  of  convulsed  masses  be- 
fore us,  the  ideal  of  solitude  and  desolation,  an  emblem  of  chaos 
when  "  the  earth  was  without  form  and  void."  We  stand  upon  the 
valve  of  a  mighty  reservoir  of  liquid  fire,  whose  depths  will  forever 
remain  unfathomed,  and  of  whose  vastnesswecanformbut  afaint  con- 
ception by  the  evidences  around  us.  From  its  culminating  points, 
Mauna  L6a  and  Mauna  Kea,  14,000  feet  high,  to  the  ocean  that  laves 
their  bases,  Hawaii  is  a  confused  mass  of  lava  or  volcanic  matter, 
exposed  or  partially  covered  with  vegetation,  which  for  ages  has 
been  accumulating;  and  it  is  easy  to  conceive  of  the  profundity  of 
the  submarine  caldron  that  has  hove  up  from  the  bed  of  ocean 
this  mountain  dome,  for  the  escape  of  its  fiery  blast.  Fancy  wan- 
ders, reason  pauses  to  reflect ;  impressions  conveyed  by  its  funereal 
gloom  endure  forever,  and  we  gaze  upon  this  burning  pyre  of  nature 


216  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

with  the  most  exalted  emotions  of  sublimity,  and  with  feelings  of 
humble  reverence  for  its  Creator. 

The  southern  portion  of  the  crater  was  inaccessible  from  its  bed, 
owing  to  the  sulphurous  gases  arising  from  burning  pits,  and  it 
was  hidden  by  a  dense  cloud.  Contrary  to  the  advice  of  our 
guide,  I  ventured  a  short  distance  to  leeward,  but  the  vapors  were 
stifling  to  respiration.  Before  leaving  the  lake  of  fire,  an  immense 
mass  of  rock  detached  itself  from  the  western  wall  and  fell  into  the 
caldron,  with  a  terrific  crash,  causing  the  molten  lava  to  surge  with 
redoubled  fury  and  burst  upward  in  jets  of  liquid  fire,  in  a  manner  in- 
conceivably grand.  On  our  return,  and  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
lake,  we  visited  a  cone  which  had  been  thrown  up  by  the  expansive 
force  of  latent  heat,  and  from  its  apex  were  issuing  dense  clouds  of 
vapor.  We  returned  by  another  route  over  the  island  before  men- 
tioned, and  gathered  some  beautiful  specimens  of  vitreous  and  cellu- 
lar lava,  exceedingly  brittle,  and  its  fractures  variegated  with 
chameleon  hues.  Immense  chasms  were  passed,  apparently  bottom- 
less, and  throwing  down  stones,  we  could  hear  them  bound  from  side 
to  side,  until  the  echo  was  gradually  lost.  I  have  sometimes  thought 
that  the  natives  retain  a  shade  of  their  former  superstition,  and  in 
this  instance,  but  for  our  questions,  the  two  who  accompanied  us 
might  have  been  taken  for  mutes ;  our  Hilo  man,  who  at  home  was 
somewhat  rakish  in  his  habits,  looked  upon  it  as  sacrilege  to  see  us 
hurl  rocks  into  the  burning  lake.  Formerly  these  islanders,  in  pass- 
ing the  crater,  would  never  eat  an  ohelo  berry,  without  first  plucking 
some  and  throwing  them  over  the  margin,  exclaiming,  "  Here,  Pele, 
I  throw  you  some  of  your  ohelos ;  some  I  eat  myself."  After 
gathering  a  quantity  of  a  light-brown  vitreous  substance,  or  capillary 
glass,  called  "  Lauoho  o  Pele"  (the  hair  of  Pele,)  we  commenced 
ascending  the.  precipitous  side  of  the  crater,  a  fatiguing  task,  and 
reached  the  house  at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 

Permitting  ourselves  but  a  hasty  dinner,  and  depositing  a  quantity 
of  taro  and  potatoes  in  the  cupboard  of  the  house,  we  mounted  our 
horses  and  bid  adieu  to  Kilauea,  having  enjoyed  but  a  superficial 
glance  at  its  wonders. 

This  extensive  crater  is  situate  about  fifteen  miles  from  the 
sea-shore,  on  the  southern  boundary  of  Puna.  Its  elevation  above 


Cheerless  Aspect  of  Mountain  Heaths.  217 

the  sea  is  about  four  thousand  feet.  The  dimensions  assigned  to  it 
by  Wilkes,  who  surveyed  it,  are — length,  three  and  a  half  miles,  and 
breadth,  two  and  a  half  miles  ;  while  its  depth  below  the  surrounding 
plain  is  one  thousand  feet.  In  other  words,  its  depth  and  extent  are 
so  great  that,  were  the  city  of  New-York  removed  to  its  bed,  the  lof- 
tiest spires  would  hardly  be  noticed.  At  this  elevation,  on  the  north 
there  are  broad  tracts  of  level  land  adapted  to  grazing  ;  and,  though 
in  some  places  diversified  with  sterile  hills  and  rocky  ravines,  they 
are  relieved  by  dark  masses  of  forest  stretching  away  towards  the 
mountains.  The  cattle  first  introduced  by  Vancouver  propagated 
rapidly  and  roamed  wild  over  this  district,  where  they  were  pursued 
to  the  brink  of  the  volcano  and  captured  by  the  rancheros  brought 
from  the  Spanish  Main  for  that  purpose.  These  mountain  heaths 
are  inhabited  by  a  species  of  grouse  that  never  visit  the  warm  re- 
gions of  the  sea-shore,  but  confine  their  flight  to  the  vast  plains  ex- 
tending from  Mauna  Loa  on  the  south  to  Mauna  Kea  and  Hualalai 
on  the  north.  They  are  prized  for  food,  and  their  pursuit  would 
afford  agreeable  recreation  for  sportsmen.  I  saw  several  flocks  fly- 
ing at  a  distance,  and  they  bore  a  strong  resemblance  to  wild  geese. 

'The  summits  of  Mauna  Loa  and  Mauna  Kea  have  the  misty  ap- 
pearance lent  by  distance.  Though  the  former  resembles  a  smooth 
conical  mound,  it  would  be  found  on  visiting  it  that  its  sides  towards 
the  apex  were  barren,  and  furrowed  by  deep  ravines,  while  rocky 
cliffs  and  rugged  masses  of  slag  or  scoria  are  almost  insurmount- 
able obstacles  in  the  way  of  accomplishing  its  ascent.  Its  apex  is  a 
vast  crater,  whose  fires  have  long  been  quiescent;  and  around  its 
margin  is  thrown  a  mantle  of  .perpetual  snow.  The  same  maybe 
said  of  Mauna  Kea,  except  that  it  is  less  uniform  in  its  contour. 
While  the  sea-shore  is  clothed  with  luxuriant  vegetation,  nourished 
by  the  genial  warmth  of  the  tropics,  these  summits  rear  themselves 
into  frozen  regions  where  no  living  thing  is  found,  and  where,  un- 
seen and  unheard,  tempests  of  snow  and  hail  sweep  over  this  wil- 
derness of  solitude  and  desolation. 

Mount  Hualalai,  constituting  the  western  foot  of  this  tripod  of  the 
clouds,  is  but  ten  thousand  feet  high.  Fifty  years  ago  it  was  a  burn- 
ing volcano,  and  poured  forth  its  fiery  torrents  to  the  sea,  filling 
bays  and  extending  the  shores  of  Kona  by  its  molten  flood  ;  and 


218  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

which,  in  future  ages,  by  decomposition  and  alluvial  deposits,  will 
furnish  sites  for  cultivation,  resting  upon  a  rocky  foundation.  North 
of  Mauna  Loa  and  Mauna  Kea,  the  fertile  district  of  Waimea  flour- 
ishes, undisturbed  by  the  volcanic  phenomena  that  have  devastated 
the  southern  portion  of  the  island.  At  an  elevation  of  seven  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  sea,  it  enjoys  a  climate  of  perpetual  spring,  where 
plants  of  the  temperate  zone  have  been  successfully  introduced,  and 
it  yields  an  abundant  harvest  of  tropical  products.  The  northern 
half  of  the  island,  including  the  districts  of  Kohala,  Hamakua,  and 
Hilo,  is  unsurpassed  in  fertility  ;  while  on  the  south  and  west  the 
shores  of  Puna  Kau  and  Kona  are  mostly  barren  and  worthless. 
This,  however,  does  not  always  extend  to  the  inland  regions,  where, 
beneath  a  belt  of  clouds,  the  trunks  of  the  forest  wave  their  broad 
branches  in  a  cooler  zone. 

Our  Hilo  men,  who  had  preceded  us  by  an  hour,  travelled  like 
horses  with  their  ladened  calabashes,  and,  though  we  rode  as  fast  as 
the  inequalities  of  the  road  would  permit,  they  were  not  overtaken 
until  half  way  to  our  former  hotel.  Here  we  all  halted  for  the 
old  guide  to  come  up,  who  presently  emerged  from  a  clump  of 
low  trees,  and  skipping  as  nimbly  as  a  child  over  the  pdhoihbi.  We 
soon  reached  the  scattered  huts  of  the  settlement,  in  passing  one 
of  which  a  girl  came  out  with  a  luscious  bunch  of  bananas,  remind- 
ing us  that  it  was  an  equivalent  for  change  due  on  a  former  purchase. 

At  the  house  we  found  two  French  Catholic  priests  journeying 
from  Hilo  across  the  island,  whom  we  invited  to  share  our  supper. 
The  elder,  though  possessing  an  austere  countenance,  proved  an 
agreeable  and  intelligent  companion.  During  the  evening  we  amused 
ourselves  with  reviewing  portions  of  the  book  carried  by  our  guide, 
containing  the  autographs,  and,  in  some  instances,  the  sentiments  of 
those  who  had  visited  the  volcano.  It  is  well  worth  the  attention  of 
visitors  as  an  index  to  disposition  ;  and,  adopting  the  sentiments 
therein  expressed  as  a  basis,  material  would  be  furnished  for  a  tole- 
rable treatise  on  ethnology.  The  opinions  of  some  were  timidly  set 
forth ;  others  boldly  advanced.  One  admired,  while  another  ridiculed  ; 
and  several  observations  on  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  and 
its  visible  phenomena  would  be  interesting  to  meteorologists  ;  for  we 
find  it  recorded  that  on  one  occasion,  "  during  the  night,  poi  froze  in 


Good-by  to  Hawaii.  219 


our  calabash."  In  another  place  we  notice,  "  I  have  just  returned 
out  of  the  crater,  and  seen  the  lake  of  fire,  which  kicks  up  quite 
a  rumpus  ;  and,  take  it  altogether,  I  think  it  one  of  the  most  exten- 
sive manufactories  of  pottery  in  his  majesty's  dominions. ,U.  S. 

Navy."  Some  have  manifested  an  unconquerable  propensity  for 
sketching  ;  and  a  few  of  these  illuminated  manuscripts  were,  I  ima- 
gine, designed  as  caricatures  on  the  goddess  Pele. 

Without  incident  worthy  of  note,  we  reached  Hilo  on  Thursday 
afternoon  at  two  o'clock  ;  here  we  found  some  half  dozen  whalers 
that  had  arrived  during  our  absence  ;  also,  a  tremendous  surf  on  the 
western  shore,  which  compelled  us  to  follow  the  beach  round  to 
Waiakea,  and  take  our  departure  for  the  ship  by  the  river,  the  en- 
trance to  which  was  but  slightly  affected  by  the  breakers.  This  is 
the  only  wind,  a  northeaster,  that  occasions  inconvenience  in  the 
harbor ;  and  at  this  time  the  heavy  swell  that  set  in  through  the 
channel  and  over  the  shoal  was  so  great  as  to  compel  two  vessels  lay- 
ing alongside  of  each  other  to  tranship  cargo,  to  cast  adrift  their 
fastenings,  and  anchor  at  a  distance. 

During  the  week  following  our  visit  to  Kilauea,  it  rained  almost 
incessantly,  and  unfortunately  there  was  no  regular  communication 
between  this  and  the  leeward  ports,  so  that  I  was  compelled  to  wait 
for  a  passage  to  Honolulu,  until  the  favor  was  conferred  by  Captain 
Sands,  of  the  American  ship  "  B T ." 

Without  having  recorded  a  moiety  of  the  incidents  that  have  en- 
livened an  aggregate  sojourn  of  twenty  months  in  the  Hawaiian 
Archipelago,  or  having  dwelt  upon  those  topics  that  enhance  the 
interest  of  a  cursory  narrative,  I  merely  offer  a  concluding  re- 
mark. If  I  have  omitted  any  allusion  to  the  resources  of  these 
islands  as  a  country,  or  to  their  inhabitants  as  a  nation,  I  have  for- 
feited no  promise  ;  the  history  of  their  natural  productions,  or  the 
tale  of  legends  and  national  characteristics,  would  be  themes  too  pro- 
lix for  off-hand  sketches ;  for  a  detailed  account  of  these,  I  would 
refer  the  reader  who  is  desirous  of  becoming  more  intimately 
acquainted  with  this  interesting  group,  to  the  histories  of  J.  J.  Jarvis, 
Esq.,  and  the  Rev.  H.  Bingham  ;  also  to  that  interesting  book,  Ellis's 
"Tour  around  Hawaii."  In  these  it  will  be  seen  that  a  barbarous 
race  in  the  nineteenth  century  has  thrown  off  its  heathen  usages 


220  Recf-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

and  become  a  Christian  and  enlightened  people,  an  independent 
nation,  and  recognized  as  such  by  the  great  powers  of  earth ;  en- 
joying a  government  modelled  to  its  peculiar  wants,  and  exhibiting 
in  an  eminent  degree  the  liberal  legislation  of  our  great  Republic, 
with  whose  history  it  is  interwoven,  and  in  whose  shadow  it  has 
matured. 


PART  III. 


GEORGIAN  AND  SOCIETY  ISLANDS. 


GEORGIAN 


AND 


SOCIETY   ISLANDS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

R  A  I  A  T  E  A  . 

ANYTHING  but  baffling  winds !  Until  yesterday  we  had  a  rattling 
breeze,  and  with  it  should  have  reached  the  beautiful  harbor  of  Pa- 
peete in  forty-eight  hours  ;  but  now,  everything  is  braced  sharp  up, 
and  in  gaming  one  mile,  we  lose  two  to  leeward.  A  parcel  of 
weather-bound  passengers  censure  the  innocent  "  Eliza  Mary"  from 
truck  to  kelson. 

We  had  on  board  twenty-two  natives  of  the  Hervey  group,  who  were 
returning  home,  also  several  passengers  en  route  for  Australia  via 
Tahiti ;  and  the  prospect  of  reaching  their  respective  destinations 
was  anything  but  encouraging.  , 

"  I  say,  Captain  Ben,"  said  Merton,  a  jovial  Englishman,  who  loved 
adventure  as  well  as  an  occasional  glass,  "have  done  with  this! 
Come,  up  helm,  and  let's  away  to  Raiatea  !  What  say  you  ?" 

Merton  had  anticipated  our  sentiments,  and  Captain  Ben  required 
but  little  urging,  for  he  had  recently  adopted  that  island  for  his  home, 
and  the  Raiatean  bunting  floated  from  the  main  truck  of  his  vessel. 
Accordingly,  the  yards  were  rounded  in,  and  we  kept  away  in  the 
direction  of  Huahme,  an  island  adjoining,  and  of  which  we  Avere 
to  windward. 

The  morning  was  foggy,  and  a  good  look-out  was  kept,  lest  we 
should  have  the  island,  or  at  least  a  reef,  aboard  of  us  before  we 


224  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

were  aware  of  it.  About  eleven  o'clock,  one  of  the  Mangaia  men 
shouted,  "  Tcia  te  fenua  /"  (here  is  the  land,)  and  looking  in  the  di- 
rection he  was  pointing,  we  could  barely  discern  an  object  looming 
darkly  amid  the  gloom.  It  was  certainly  land,  and  Merton  was  in 
ecstasies.  Sleepless  nights,  occasioned  by  low  islands  and  ima- 
ginary reefs,  were  now  at  an  end,  for  he  always  shuddered  at  the 
bare  idea  of  shipwreck,  having  endured  its  miseries  twice. 

It  proved  to  be  Huahme ;  and  soon  after,  the  atmosphere  becom- 
ing clearer,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  its  rugged  peaks  and  deep  ravines, 
softened  by  the  smiles  of  perpetual  spring ;  the  bright  verdure 
mantling  around  sharp  pinnacles,  or  sweeping  upward  in  gentle 
undulations,  to  blend  with  the  shadows  of  cloud-capped  summits. 
We  passed  by  its  eastern  and  southern  sides,  with  the  trade-winds 
blowing  strongly  from  the  southeast,  and  soon  after  saw  a  light  hum- 
mock looming  in  the  horizon  ;  this  was  Raiatea,  "  the  distant  sky" 

Captain  Ben  promised  us  "  a  roast  pig,"  together  with  "  the  best 
the  market  afforded  ;"  hinting  broadly  upon  the  merits  of  orange  rum. 
Fore  and  aft  there  was  a  general  exuberance  of  spirits.  We  were 
bearing  direct  for  the  Opoa  passage ;  and  having  attained  a  close 
proximity  to  the  reef,  we  skirted  along  its  outer  edge,  and  this  por- 
tion of  the  island  passed  in  review  like  a  beautiful  panorama.  Un- 
like any  other  island  of  this  group,  Raiatea  has  a  coral  barrier  ex- 
tending completely  around  it,  comprising  in  its  folds  the  adjacent 
island  of  Tahoa,  leaving  a  broad  and  deep  channel  like  a  vast  river 
or  lake,  with  numerous  entrances.  By  a  singular  freak  of  nature, 
nearly  every  passage  is  bounded  on  either  side  by  islets  covered 
with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  cocoanut-trees.  Near  Opoa,  in  one  of 
the  broad  valleys,  Mr.  Platt,  the  owner  of  the  vessel,  pointed  out  a 
bright  strip  of  verdure  conspicuous  amid  the  darker  foliage,  which  he 
said  was  an  extensive  bamboo  grove.  The  shore  was  indented 
with  deep  bays,  bounded  in  the  rear  by  spacious  valleys,  while  the 
mountains  swept  down  to  the  water's  edge,  hardly  leaving  a  resting- 
place,  and  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  trees.  We  continued 
sailing  in  this  way  outside,  until  we  reached  the  Ohelau  passage, 
leading  to  the  settlement,  and  bounded  on  either  side  by  a  beautiful 
islet.  Between  them,  the  water  was  deep  and  clear,  but  their  outer 
sides  were  flanked  by  foaming  breakers.  The  channel  was  about 


First  Impressions.  225 


forty  yards  wide,  and  after  passing  through,  we  glided  with  equal 
rapidity  over  what  appeared  to  be  a  broad,  still  lake  ;  and  along  the 
shore  we  could  occasionally  distinguish  thatched  huts  peeping  from 
beneath  the  foliage.  Howard,  an  American,  had  a  French  flag  and 
several  private  signals.  These  Captain  Ben  borrowed  for  the  occa- 
sion, and  the  "  Eliza  Mary"  made  a  flaunting  display  of  bunting  as 
she  approached  the  settlement.  A  canoe  filled  with  natives  came 
off  to  meet  us,  and  shouts  of  recognition  were  exchanged  between 
them  and  some  of  our  attaches.  The  leewrard  islanders  having  a 
strong  aversion  to  anything  French,  one  of  the  natives  in  the  canoe 
called  out  in  his  own  language,  "  Haul  down  that  blackguard  rag, 
for  it's  a  disgrace  to  a  Raiatean  vessel !"  After  rounding  the  last 
intervening  point,  the  scattered  houses  of  the  settlement  were  in 
view ;  and  ranging  up  near  the  shore,  we  let  go  our  anchor. 

Our  first  impressions  were  unfavorable  ;  the  mountain  ridges  im- 
mediately in  the  rear  approached  the  water  so  closely  as  to  leave  but 
a  narrow  strip  of  level  land  to  build  upon.  The  mountains  them- 
selves possessed  neither  beauty  nor  grandeur,  when  viewed  from  this 
point ;  above  the  lower  belt  of  vegetation  they  were  covered  with 
guava  bushes.  Along  the  shore  the  effect  was  more  pleasing, 
though  at  the  present  time  too  solitary  to  fascinate  ;  it  was  covered 
to  the  water's  edge  with  dark  groves  of  bread-fruit,  orange,  and  lime 
trees,  above  which  rose  the  slender  trunks  of  the  cocoanut.  The 
houses  seemed  to  be  entirely  deserted ;  a  few  canoes  were  hauled 
upon  the  beach,  and,  save  a  dozen  natives  who  came  down  and 
shouted  to  us  from  the  shore,  we  saw  no  other  indications  of  life. 
The  problem  was  presently  solved  by  a  canoe  that  came  off,  paddled 
by  two  natives  and  a  white  man  in  the  employ  of  Mr.  Platt.  After 
exchanging  iaurdnas,  (salutations,)  George  stated  that  old  King  Ta- 
matoa  was  giving  a  grand  feast  up  at  Opoa,  and,  nearly  all  the  inhab- 
itants of  the  settlement  had  gone  up  to  participate  in  the  festivities  ; 
after  which,  an  entertainment  was  to  be  given  in  town,  by  Tamare, 
the  opposing  chief. 

Our  fresh  provisions  having  run  low,  Merton,  who  professed  to  be 
in  a  state  of  starvation,  ventured  to  inquire  whether  there  was  any- 
thing  to  eat  ashore.  George  held  up  both  hands,  and  exclaimed, 
"  Plenty,  plenty — the  bread-fruit's  just  in  season." 

15 


226  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

11  Hang  the  bread-fruit !  we  aren't  Grahamites  ;  we  want  something 
substantial,  in  the  shape  of  beef-steaks,  pork  chops,  and  hot  rolls  and 
butter  ;  we  are  starving,  man." 

George  rolled  up  his  eyes  at  the  enumeration  of  these  dainties  ; 
as  to  beef,  he  said,  the  natives  who  wandered  up  the  mountains  for' 
feis  occasionally  saw  a  wild  cow  ;  and,  further,  that  parties  had  been 
foraging  about  for  every  quadruped  that  wore  bristles,  stealing  what 
they  couldn't  buy,  as  a  contribution  for  the  grand  feast.  Hot  rolls 
and  butter  he  had  eaten  about  ten  years  previous  in  Sydney.  This 
was  a  humiliating  statement  for  gourmands,  and  very  naturally  led 
to  the  inquiry  what  they  did  eat. 

"  O,"  said  George,  "  as  to  that  matter,  if  we  can't  get  a  man  to  go, 
we  go  ourselves  up  the  mountains,  and  back  down  a  load  of  feis, 
and  when  we  can't  get  pork  or  fish,  we  live  on  these  and  roast  bread- 
fruit." 

"  And  what  are/m,  pray?"  asked  Merton. 

"  Feis  !  why,  they  are  the  best  things  to  fatten  a  man  you  ever  ate  ; 
some  call  'em  wild  bananas,  because  they  grow  on  just  such  a  tree, 
only  the  banana  bunch  hangs  down  and  these  grow  straight  up.  We 
roast  'em  nicely  in  the  ashes,  and  when  the  outside  skin  is  pulled 
off  they  are  soft  and  yellow,  and  taste  something  like  a  roasted 
apple." 

One  of  the  passengers  had  the  effrontery  to  insinuate  that  he 
didn't  believe  the  man  knew  how  a  roasted  apple  tasted,  having  lived 
so  long  among  savages. 

George  imparted  numerous  little  items  of  intelligence,  domestic 
and  political ;  he  said  that  he  could  hardly  hire  a  man  to  work,  as 
King  Tamatoa  and  the  Chief  Tamare  were  making  preparations  to 
renew  the  war.  It  was  now  about  six  p.  M.,  and  Captain  Ben 
jumped  into  the  canoe,  (for  our  only  boat  had  been  stove  in  attempt- 
ing to  hoist  it  out  to  save  a  man's  life  during  the  recent  voyage,) 
promising  to  institute  a  general  forage  among  pigs  and  poultry,  while 
we  patiently  lighted  our  cigars  and  leaned  over  the  bulwarks  to 
philosophize.  We  were  certainly  in  an  awkward  "  fix :"  first,  it 
would  be  long  before  the  Mangaia  men  would  have  an  opportunity 
of  returning  to  the  Hervey  Group  from  Raiatea ;  and  our  passengers 
for  Australia  were  equally  unfortunate,  for  at  Tahiti  vessels  from  San 


A  Reminiscence  of  Rebellion.  227 

Francisco,  en  route  for  Melbourne,  frequently  touched  at  that  port, 
between  which  and  the  leeward  islands  communication  is  very  irreg- 
ular. As  to  myself,  I  looked  upon  the  circumstance  with  indiffer- 
ence. It  was  mutually  agreed  by  four  of  us,  the  after  guard,  that 
provided  such  a  thing  could  be  done,  we  would  rent  a  house,  and 
have  a  sort  of  club  arrangement,  until  an  opportunity  should  present 
itself  for  leaving  the  island,  and  that  Merton,  who  aspired  to  the 
mysteries  of  the  cuisine,  should  be  caterer.  The  fortunes  of  one  of 
our  number  had  been  somewhat  remarkable  :  he  was  a  native  of 
New-York,  and  when  a  young  man,  had  crossed  over  to  Windmill 
Point  in  Canada,  with  the  forces  of  Von  Sholtz,  who,  with  all  his 
commissioned  officers,  was  executed  at  Toronto  ;  having  survived 
the  three  days'  fight,  he  was  among  those  who  surrendered  and  were 
transported  to  Van  Diemen's  Land,  subject  to  her  Majesty's  clem- 
ency. Here  he  remained  until  pardoned,  but  having  been  absent 
so  many  years,  his  regards  for  home  had  become  alienated ;  he 
spoke  in  the  highest  terms  of  the  indulgent  treatment  of  the  Colonial 
Government  to  himself  and  comrades,  and  from  my  own  observations 
in  Australia,  I  have  not  the  slightest  doubt  of  the  correctness  of  his 
statement.  He  was  pleased  with  the  country,  had  married,  and. 
adopted  it  for  his  home. 

Captain  Ben  returned  after  dark,  bringing  a  gloomy  report  on  the 
larders  of  all  the  houses  he  had  visited.  We  smothered  our  dis- 
appointment, determined  to  perish  like  martyrs,  on  chickens  arid 
bread-fruit. 


CHAPTER    II. 

A    NEW    LOCALITY    DESCRIBED. 

IN  the  morning  we  landed  in  canoes  in  front  of  the  house  of  Mr. 
Platt,  a  son  of  one  of  the  early  missionaries  ;  and,  as  this  is  a  sample 
of  the  first-class  houses  throughout  the  leeward,  or  Society  Islands, 
I  give  a  brief  description. 

An  ordinary  one-story  frame  was  erected,  of  tomanu  wood,  and 


228  Reef-Ravings  in  the  South  Seas. 

the  sides  interwoven  with  wattles.  These  were  plastered  within 
and  without — the  lime  being  prepared  by  burning  the  coral  from  the 
reef  which  is  a  carbonate  of  that  mineral — and  neatly  whitewashed. 
This  house  had  glass  windows,  though  generally  they  have  Vene- 
tian blinds  instead.  The  interior  is  partitioned  off,  to  suit  the 
convenience  of  the  proprietor,  with  boards  simply  dressed,  having  no 
decoration  whatever.  In  front,  they  have  usually  a  narrow  veran- 
dah. The  cook-house  is  situated  a  short  distance  in  the  rear.  Most 
of  these  houses  are  raised  a  few  feet  above  the  ground,  with  only 
necessary  supporters,  and  leaving  the  space  beneath  open.  The  roof 
is  thatched  with  the  pandanus  leaf,  and  viewed  from  the  interior 
of  the  house,  with  its  white  purdu  rafters,  its  regularity  and  simpli- 
city have  a  pleasing  effect;  it  is  far  superior  to  the  pili  of  the 
Sandwich  Islanders.  A  few  of  the  more  aspiring  natives  have 
adopted  these  houses,  in  preference  to  their  own  inferior  ones. 
The  mission  residences  are  larger,  and  some  of  them  neatly  fur- 
nished. The  ordinary  dimensions  of  a  house  of  this  description 
are  thirty  feet  in  length  by  fifteen  in  breadth,  and  about  ten  feet 
from  floor  to  eaves.  Their  floors  are  usually  substantial,  being 
heavy  planks  of  the  tomdnu.  The  partitions  extend  only  to  a  level 
with  the  eaves,  and  the  space  above  being  left  open,  they  merely 
serve  as  screens,  for  a  conversation  in  one  apartment  is  heard  dis- 
tinctly in  another. 

'  Such  of  these  houses  as  have  yards  are  usually  inclosed  with  rude 
fences  of  purdu;  but  little  reference  is  had  to  neatness,  and  the 
mouldering  relics  in  the  vicinity  of  many  of  them  are  an  index  to  the 
diet  of  their  occupants.  Some  of  these  inclosures  are  naturally  or 
accidentally  ornamented  with  beautiful  orange,  lime,  and  bread-fruit 
trees,  and  occasionally  the  snowy  petals  of  the  Cape  jessamine  ex- 
hale a  sweet  perfume  beside  the  verandah. 

The  habitations  of  the  common  natives  are  primitive  enough, 
being  of  all  sizes  from  fifteen  to  fifty  feet  in  length,  and  some  of 
them  twenty  feet  from  the  ridge-pole  to  the  ground.  Their  construc- 
tion is  very  simple :  the  parasitic  sprouts  of  the  purdu,  which 
are  well  adapted  to  this  purpose,  being  straight  and  light,  are  di- 
vested of  their  bark,  tied  into  bundles,  and  placed  in  salt  water, 
where  they  are  thoroughly  immersed  by  the  weight  of  large  stones. 


Domicils,  and  their  Inmates.  229 

Having  remained  in  this  situation  for  several  days,  they  are  taken 
out  to  season ;  after  which  they  are  driven  into  the  ground,  leaving 
the  height  required,  usually  six  feet,  with  a  space  of  at  least 
two  inches  between  each  stick,  which  is  about  the  size  of  a  man's 
wrist.  These  are  arranged  in  an  oval  form,  and  covered  with  the 
beautiful  thatch  of  the  pandanus,  secured  to  the  rafters  by  sennit 
manufactured  from  the  cocoanut  husk,  and  thus  the  entire  fabric  is 
completed  without  the  sound  of  a  hammer.  They  have  but  one 
door  ;  and  the  light  admitted  through  this  and  the  interstices  of  the 
sides  is  sufficient  for  their  purposes.  A  person  may  stand  in  the 
house,  and,  by  looking  through  any  portion  of  it,  observe  all  that  is 
going  on  without.  The  interior  offers  a  sad  comment  on  their 
habits  of  cleanliness  and  industry.  Unlike  the  Hawaiians,  their 
houses  are  simply  strewed  with  dried  grass,  without  being  covered 
with  mats,  except  a  few  that  are  laid  down  to  sleep  on.  During 
stormy  weather,  mats  which  are  rolled  up  outside  and*  secured  be- 
neath the  eaves  of  the  thatch,  are  drooped,  and  afford  a  tolerable  screen. 
These  houses  have  a  fanciful  appearance,  and  at  a  short  distance 
might  be  mistaken  for  receptacles  of  poultry.  However,  construc- 
tions of  this  description  which  I  have  seen  at  Tahiti,  where  the 
light  yellow  bamboo  was  used  instead  of  the  purdu,  have  a  beautiful 
appearance,  and  are  in  harmony  with  the  landscape.  But  very  few 
of  them  have  small  cultivations  of  taro  and  sweet  potatoes  adjoining. 
At  the  house  of  Mr.  Platt,  I  found  the  Rev.  George  Charter,  a 
resident  missionary ;  also  Tamare,  the  rebel  chieftain,  together  with 
several  natives  of  both  sexes,  sitting  or  standing  in  the  verandah. 
I  enjoyed  a  half  hour's  conversation  with  Mr.  Charter,  and  listened 
with  interest  to  his  communications  respecting  this  group.  I  was  at 
once  struck  with  the  difference  between  the  Sandwich  and  Society 
Islanders.  The  latter  were  a  handsomer  race,  and  most  of  them 
finely  proportioned :  the  females  were  prettier,  and  courteous  and 
modest  in  their  deportment,  without  the  rudeness  of  the  other. 
The  dress  of  the  males  was  usually  a  fancy  regatta  shirt  and  the 
pareu,  or  a  couple  of  yards  of  fancy  prints  simply  girded  about  their 
loins,  and  extending  midway  from  the  knee  to  the  ankle  ;  that  of  the 
females  resembled  the  loose  holoku  of  the  Hawaiians,  but,  though 
simple,  was  much  more  becoming.  Instead  of  the  broad  yoke  and 


230  Rrcf-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

formidable  gigot  sleeves,  they  were  confined  at  the  neck  by  simple 
bands  or  collars,  and  hung  around  them  in  loose  folds,  while  the 
sleeves  were  flowing  or  oriental.  Fine  English  prints,  having  a 
delicate  pink  figure,  were  all  the  rage  during  my  visit.  The  com- 
plexion of  these  islanders  is  an  olive  brown. 

My  companions  had  preceded  me  through  the  settlement,  and  I 
commenced  my  peregrinations  alone,  sauntering  along  the  Broom 
road,  which  runs  parallel  with  the  sea,  and  on  either  side  of  which 
were  scattered  the  houses  of  the  natives,  some  of  them  occupied 
and  others  deserted.  Finding  the  settlement  to  be  more  extensive 
than  I  had  imagined,  I  turned  back  a  short  distance  to  procure,  if 
possible,  a  horse.  Having  no  interpreter,  I  found  it  difficult  to  make 
the  natives  comprehend  my  wants,  for  I  spoke  in  Hawaiian.  One 
of  them  ran  off  and  soon  returned  with  a  native  of  that  group,  who 
gave  me  the  Tahitian  designation  for  the  quadruped,  which  was  pua 
horo  fenua,  or  "  the  pig  that  runs  on  the  ground."  After  a  short 
search,  a  young  colt  was  brought,  without  saddle,  and  having  simply 
a  vegetable  bridle.  This  I  was  requested  to  mount,  and  their 
charges  would  be  in  proportion  to  the  services  required.  It  is  al- 
most needles_s  to  add  that  walking  was  deemed  preferable  ;  and  at 
John's  (the  name  of  the  Hawaiian)  invitation,  I  accompanied  him  to 
his  house,  where  he  promised  to  cook  me  a  breakfast.  This  con- 
sisted of  roast  fowl,  bread-fruit,  fets,  and  for  a  beverage,  one  of  na- 
ture's choicest  goblets,  a  young  cocoanut.  The  seasoning  consisted 
of  the  expressed  juice  of  the  ripe  cocoanut  mixed  with  sea-water, 
having  the  appearance  of  milk.  It  is  called  miti,  and  to  one  accus- 
tomed to  it,  is  considered  quite  palatable. 

From  John  I  learned  that  Merton  and  his  companions  had  found 
their  way  to  the  house  of  another  Hawaiian,  an  old  resident  on  this 
island,  and  named  Maiopu,  (sick  stomach.)  As  the  distance  was 
nearly  a  mile,  he  carried  me  in  a  canoe,  and  landing,  we  hauled  it 
up  on  a  projecting  point.  The  appearance  of  the  settlement  in  this 
direction  was  pieasanter,  for  the  space  between  the  sea-shore  and 
the  mountains  was  broader,  and  there  was  more  open  ground.  It 
seemed  as  if  we  had  {)ut  just  reached  the  thickly-settled  portion,  for 
we  were  surrounded  by  natives  of  both  sexes,  and,  among  them,  little 
children,  innocent  of  apparel  of  any  description,  were  scampering 


A  Bevy  of  Beauties.  231 

about  in  all-  directions,  and  bent  on  having  a  holiday  generally. 
The  abode  of  Maiopu  was  a  snug  little  plastered  tenement,  having  a 
verandah  in  front,  and  this  was  literally  crowded  with  Raiatean 
belles,  some  of  whom  were  strikingly  handsome,  with  intelligent 
countenances.  Nearly  all  of  them  wore  the  white  flowers  of  the 
jessamine  in  the  lobes  of  their  ears,  or  interwoven  with  the  glossy 
black  tresses,  falling  loosely  upon  their  shoulders,  or  gathered  into  a 
knot  behind.  Some  wore  garlands  of 'fern  or  leaves,  while  around 
the  wrists  of  a  few  were  bracelets  of  the  small  mottled  cowrie.  To 
judge  from  their  animated  conversation,  our  advent  afforded  a  pleasing 
theme  for  comment ;  but  as  we  approached,  they  modestly  permitted 
us  a'  free  passage  to  the  door-way,  where  we  found  the  stragglers 
just  sitting  down  to  a  capital  feast  that  Maiopu  had  provided. 

We  all  returned  by  the  road,  and  saw  many  a  thatched  roof  peep- 
ing out  from  the  dark  foliage  by  which  it  was  embowered.  The 
land  near  the  shore  is  in  many  places  very  low,  at  times  swampy, 
and  during  heavy  gales  portions  of  it  are  overflowed.  The  soil  of 
the  settlement  has  frequently  a  light  sandy  appearance,  still  it  is  very 
prolific  for  its  indigenous  products.  The  road  was  in  some  places 
completely  thrown  up  by  that  troublesome  species  of  Crustacea  which 
infests  certain  portions  of  the  torrid  zone,  the  land-crab,  (cancer  ruri- 
cola.)  Their  holes  were  numerous,  for  they  burrowed  in  every 
direction  ;  in  some  climates,  they  even  venture  into  the  houses  and 
crawl  about  upon  the  rafters  ;  they  are  cautious,  and  seldom  ven- 
ture far  without  having  a  hiding-place  accessible. 

We  passed  the  native  church,  a  large  building,  oval  in  form,  being 
weather-boarded,  and  having  green  Venetians ;  it  was  sufficiently  com- 
modious to  seat  two  hundred  persons.  Near  by  was  the  white  school- 
house,  also  the  court-house,  a  spacious  affair,  Consisting  of  a  substantial 
frame-work,  with  purau  sides  ;  the  interior  is  simply  strewed  with 
dried  grass,  without  having  anything  approximating  to  either  seat  or 
rostrum.  The  residence  of  Mr.  Charter,  a  neat,  white  cottage,  oc- 
cupied a  commanding  position  upon  the  hill,  and  was  surrounded  by  a 
grove  of  fruit-trees.  There  is  a  melancholy  interest  connected  with 
this  settlement,  for  here  commenced  the  labors  of  that  pioneer  of 
missionary  enterprise,  the  Rev.  John  Williams,  who,  by  his  perse- 
vering efforts,  built  a  small  vessel,  and  carried  the  Gospel  to  the 


232  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

Hervey  Group,  a  portion  of  which  he  discovered,  also  to  the  Austral 
and  Samoan  Islands,  finally  receiving  the  crown  of  martyrdom  from 
the  savages  of  the  New  Hebrides,  at  Eromanga. 

Mr.  Platt  was  kind  enough  to  lease  us  a  small  house  for  a  nominal 
sum,  and  further,  promised  us  the  loan  of  tea-kettle,  frying-pan,  and 
sundry  utensils  indispensable  to  housekeeping. 


CHAPTER  III. 

WE    COMMENCE     HOUSEKEEPING. 

HAVING  received  the  key,  we  proceeded  at  once  to  our  new  quar- 
ters. The  house  was  small,  but  as  well  finished  as  any  in  the 
settlement,  with  a  narrow  hall  and  four  apartments,  green  Venetians, 
and  a  pleasant  verandah,  which  was  reached  by  half  a  dozen  steps, 
and  shaded  by  bread-fruit  and  orange  trees  that  grew  in  the  yard. 
The  premises  were  well  fenced,  and  had  a  good  gate ;  in  the  rear 
we  found  a  nice  cook-house,  but  neither  stove  nor  utensil.  The 
spreading  branches  of  two  or  three  cocoanut  trees  were  waving  over- 
.head,  and  beneath  were  a  few  banana  and  papaya  trees  ;  also  the 
mandioca  plant,  and  numerous  creeping  vines.  The  house  had 
remained  long  untenanted,  and  interloping  vines  had  forced  their 
way  between  the  interstices  of  the  purdu,  and  were  creeping  among 
the  blackened  stones  and  cinders  of  the  fireplace.  In  the  rear  a 
projecting  spur  of  the  mountain  rose  abruptly,  covered  with  an  al- 
most impenetrable  growth  of  guava  and  lime  trees,  the  bright-yellow 
fruit  intermingled  with  the  foliage.  Our  water  was  to  be  procured 
from  a  spring  in  the  yard  adjoining. 

Our  first  care  was  to  make  ourselves  comfortable  for  the  night, 
and  to  this  effect  we  sent  off  for  our  bedding  to  the  Eliza  Mary.  It 
was  mutually  arranged  that,  as  one  of  the  rear  apartments  was  filled 
with  pandanus  leaves  for  thatching,  the  opposite  one  should  be  re- 
served for  a  store-house  and  dining-room,  while  the  two  front  ones 
were  to-be  occupied  as  dormitories.  A  supper  of  roast  fowl  and 


Evening  Entertainment.  233 

bread-fruit  had  been  provided  for  us  by  "  Sandwich  Island  Johnny," 
and  this  was  served  up  promiscuously  on  a  large  platter,  and  par- 
taken of  in  primitive  style  in  the  verandah. 

In  the  evening  we  sat  down  upon  the  steps  to  observe  the  move- 
ments of  our  visitors,  who  were  sitting  and  reclining  upon  the  grass, 
wishing  to  offer  a  welcome  which  they  knew  not  how  to  express. 
Having  heard  much  of  the  natural  talent  of  these  natives  for  sing- 
ing, we  intimated  that  an  exhibition  of  their  vocal  powers  would 
prove  a  most  acceptable  diversion.  Accordingly,  a  dozen  girls  seated 
themselves  in  a  circle,  and,  after  the  customary  simpering,  one  com- 
menced chanting  a  strain  in  a  minor  key.  Immediately  after,  it  was 
taken  up  by  her  companions,  whose  voices  chimed  in  with  exquisite 
harmony.  This  talent  is  natural,  for  they  understand  not  a  note  of 
music.  The  voices  of  the  Hawaiians  that  have  been  cultivated  are 
discordant  in  comparison.  Without  any  pretensions  as  an  amateur, 
but  trusting  to  my  operatic  reminiscences,  I  heard  the  complete  and 
harmonious  intonations  of  the  female  voice,  ranging  from  the  rich, 
deep  contralto  to  the  clear  and  almost  ethereal  soprano.  To  us,  in 
that  far-off  nook,  this  vocal  melody  beneath  the  orange-trees  lent  a 
more  pleasing  effect  than  the  thrilling  strain  of  "  Tutto  e  gio  ja" 
breathed  with  affected  passion  beneath  a  gorgeous  canopy. 

Our  musical  soiree  having  terminated,  we  expressed  a  desire  to 
see  the  boys  produce  fire  by  rubbing  two  dry  sticks  together.  A 
dozen  of  them  started  to  their  feet  and  commenced  a  simultaneous 
attack  upon  the  fence  to  obfain  pieces  of  the  purau,  which  is  soft,  and 
preferred  by  them  for  this  purpose.  A  large  piece  is  laid  upon  the 
ground,  upon  which  they  either  sit  or  kneel.  Along  this  a  stick 
about  a  foot  in  length,  held  firmly  between  the  thumbs  and  hands, 
which  are  lapped  over  each  other,  is  propelled  obliquely  at  an  angle 
of  about  forty-five  degrees.  This  moves  slowly  and  steadily  at  first, 
wearing  a  groove  in- the  lower  piece,  at  the  extremity  of  which  a  light 
dust  collects  as  it  is  worn  deeper  by  the  continued  friction.  A  faint 
breath  of  vapor  seems  to  curl  above  it,  and  then  the  motion  is  in- 
creased until  the  groove  turns  black  as  the  stick  flies  rapidly  along, 
while  the  smoke  rolls  above  it  in  a  cloud.  This  is  the  critical  mo- 
ment ;  should  the  operator  suspend  his  labor,  all  would  be  lost.  The 
stick  flies  until  the  groove  is  charred,  and  the  powder  at  the  ex 


234  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

tremity  changes  from  a  white  to  a  dark  brown.  He  then  suddenly 
pauses,  holding  the  stick  firmly  in  the  extremity  of  the  groove.  Il 
the  dust  continues  to  smoke,  his 'efforts  have  been  successful;  if  not, 
in  vain.  After  removing  the  stick,  the  little  pile  continues  to  smoke 
until  the  fire  is  visible,  which  is  almost  immediately ;  after  which,  it 
is  blown  softly,  when  it  communicates  readily  to  the  dry  wood,  now 
reduced  to  tinder  by  friction.  The  process  is  simple,  and  yet  I  have 
seen  it  frequently  attempted  by  persons  unacquainted  with  the  art, 
who  expended  double  the  labor  required  without  success. 

A  stranger  might  have  supposed  we  were  about  commencing  a 
torchlight  procession,  from  the  number  of  burning  brands  ;  and  this 
naturally  suggested  the  absence  of  an  important  item  in  domestic 
economy — a  lamp.  One  of  the  men  volunteered  to  bring  one,  and 
presently  returned  with  something  of  this  description  ;  it  was  a 
cocoanut  sawed  in  two,  and  in  the  centre  of  one  of  the  portions 
was  fastened  a  small  wick  of  twisted  cotton  rag  ;  it  was  then  filled  to 
a  convenient  height  with  cocoanut  oil.  The  light,  notwithstanding  its 
glaring  effect  upon  the  white  kernel  by  which  it  was  surrounded, 
was  dim  and  unpleasant,  though  it  answered  our  temporary  con- 
venience. 

In  due  season  our  visitors  dispersed,  and  spreading  our  mats  and 
blankets  upon  the  floor,  we  enjoyed  a  tolerable  repose.  In  the  morn- 
ing we  breakfasted  at  the  house  of  Maiopu,  after  which,  we  com- 
menced removing  our  trunks  and  other  conveniences  from  the  brig, 
assisted  by  the  natives.  As  usual,  there  was  a  crowd  of  them  to 
proffer  their  services  ;  for  our  arrival  having  been  notified  to  the  visit- 
ors at  Opoa,  many  had  hastily  embarked  in  their  canoes,  and  came 
down  to  the  settlement.  Trunks  and  boxes  were  lowered  across 
large  canoes,  being  of  lighter  draught  than  boats,  and  consequently 
able  to  approach  nearer  shore. 

When  we  commenced  unpacking,  the  yard  was  filled  with  visitors, 
among  whom  I  noticed  Tamare,  his  wife  and  daughter,  whose  au- 
thority among  his  adherents  was  barely  nominal.  As  to  articles  of 
present  comfort,  I  was  better  provided  than  my  companions  ;  for  I 
had  a  capital  bed,  with  musquito-net,  besides  other  articles  of  furni- 
ture, which  we  shared  in  common.  Our  trunks  served  us  for  seats, 
and  from  our  packing-boxes,  Jasper  and  Howard,  who  possessed  a 


Items  of  Domestic  Economy.  235 

mechanical  turn,  manufactured  tables — the  one  for  the  dining-room 
served  a  double  purpose,  being  converted  into  a  cupboard  by  remov- 
ing the  top.  Our  arrangement  for  the  parlor  was  larger,  and  a  fancy 
woollen  cover  that  hung  in  folds  around  it,  completely  concealed  the 
deformity  ;  this  was  ornamented  by  a  beautiful  solar  lamp,  and  sub- 
sequently by  marine  curiosities,  including  some  exquisite  specimens 
of  coral.  The  window  was  decorated  with  a  pair  of  finely  em- 
broidered Zurich  curtains,  and  a  small  piece  of  carpeting  was 
admirably  adapted  to  the  dimensions  of  the  apartment ;  besides,  we 
had  a  library  of  about  fifty  volumes,  so  that  in  providing  for  physical 
comfort,  mental  recreation  had  not  been  forgotten. 
•  In  a  short  time  Merton  made  his  report  on  the  culinary  depart- 
ment ;  this  was,  half  a  dozen  dinner  plates,  two  dishes  a  la  mode,  a 
set  of  cups  and  saucers,  a  set  each  of  tea  and  table  spoons,  six 
knives  and  eight  forks,  one  large  china  bowl,  (originally  designed  for 
ablutions,  but  found  on  inspection  to  answer  the  purpose  of  a  soup 
tureen,)  four  decanters  and  a  dozen  goblets,  a  pound  of  table  salt,  one 
case  of  chocolate,  and  a  small  paper  of  loaf-sugar.  This  comprised 
our  entire  stock,  except  a  recently  baked  loaf  and  a  small  quantity 
of  pepper  which  Jasper  had  pilfered  from  the  cabin  that  morning. 
A  servant  to  perform  the  drudgery  was  indispensable,  and  for  this 
purpose  we  hired  Bob,  a  native  of  Aitutake,  (an  island  of  the  Hervey 
Group,)  and  a  passenger  with  us  from  Honolulu.  He  had  been  from 
home  seven  years,  having  served  that  period  on  board  of  American 
whalers,  and  in  addition  to  his  own  language,  he  spoke  English, 
Hawaiian,  and  Tahitian,  so  that  as  an  interpreter  he  proved  a  valu- 
able acquisition  to  us.  Bob  was  immediately  sent  out  for  the  kettle 
and  frying-pan,  promised  by  our  landlord,  while  a  Raiatean  boy 
brought  us  a  bamboo  of  cocoanut  oil,  in  quantity  a  gallon,  which  we 
purchased  for  a  couple  of  reals. 

Merton  traversed  the  settlement  from  one  end  to  the  other,  but 
could  procure  neither  bread  nor  flour,  so  that  his  ambition  to  present 
us  with  hot  rolls  for  our  breakfast  completely  evaporated. 

We  appointed  Bob  quartermaster ;  he  stood  upon  the  verandah 
and  gave  out  that  he  was  ready  to  listen  to  proposals  for  furnishing 
supplies.  Some  of  the  crowd  dispersed,  and  soon  after  our  ears 
were  assailed  by  the  squealing  of  pigs  and  cackling  of  fowls,  while 


236  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

several  natives  came  staggering  into  the  yard  with  loads  of  bread- 
fruit and  heavy  bunches  of  feis ;  two  or  three  of  them  held  savage- 
looking  eels  in  their  hands.  Pork  was  certainly  in  demand,  to 
judge  by  the  value  placed  upon  it,  for  we  paid  at  the  rate  of  ten 
cents  per  pound  ;  for  inferior  chickens,  twenty-five  cents  apiece;  feis, 
ditto  per  bunch  ;  and  for  large  bunches  of  bread-fruit,  fifty  cents  each. 
Our  store-room  was  soon  lumbered  up,  and  we  found  it  convenient  to 
transfer  a  portion  of  our  stock  to  the  cook-house,  where  it  was  occa- 
sionally subject  to  the  depredations  of  juveniles,  whom  we  found  it 
impossible  to  banish  from  the  premises. 

We  were  sadly  in  need  of  a  broom,  but  such  a  thing  was  not  to  be 
procured  in  the  settlement ;  the  Chief  Tamare,  seeing  our  dilemma, 
sent  out  a  boy,  who  presently  returned  with  a  long  piece  of  bamboo  and 
a  quantity  of  cocoanut  husk.  Tamare  sat  down  upon  the  steps,  and 
removing  the  inner  portion  of  the  husk,  bound  it  firmly  around  one 
end  of  the  bamboo,  and  fashioned  an  excellent  broom,  which  served 
us  as  long  as  we  occupied  the  house.  Several  clusters  of  cocoanuts 
hung  temptingly  from  the  trees,  and  at  our  request  a  boy  fastened  a 
strip  of  bark  around  his  ankles,  leaving  the  space  of  a  foot  between, 
then  by  clasping  the  trunk  with  his  hands,  and  bracing  firmly  with 
the  strap,  raising  each  alternately,  he  ascended  rapidly,  and  threw 
down  the  nuts,  which  bounded  upon  the  green-sward  beneath. 

It  required  two  or  three  days  before  our  domestic  arrangements 
were  reduced  to  a  system,  and  even  then  we  had  one  annoyance. 
Bob,  who  had  become  an  important  man,  had  hired  a  cook  to  perform 
the  duties  incumbent  on  himself,  and  who  in  turn  found  it  impossible 
to  manage  without  a  couple  of  mischievous  boys  to  wait  upon  him. 
On  one  occasion  he  suffered  the  fire  to  go  out  in.  the  cook-house 
without  lighting  the  lamp,  and  as  there  were  no  matches  in  the  house, 
the  situation  of  those  who  remained  at  home  was  interesting.  The 
night  was  rainy,  and  every  native  snugly  housed.  I  had  been 
absent  at  the  extremity  of  the  settlement,  and  returning  during  the 
evening,  was  surprised  to  find  the  house  in  darkness  ;  ascending  the 
steps,  I  was  astonished  at  hearing  strange  rubbing  sounds  and  a  very 
audible  panting,  as  of  some  one  in  great  fatigue.  A  most  ludi- 
crous spectacle  presented  itself  as  I  entered  :  in  the  hall  was  Merton, 
seated  upon  the  floor,  making  gesticulations  with  two  purau  sticks  ; 


A  Last  Expedient.  237 


in  one  of  the  apartments  Jasper  was  seated  upon  a  long  pole  of 
the  same  material,  watching  intently  the  efforts  of  Howard,  who 
kneeled  upon  it,  while  his  elbows  were  flying  with  the  rapidity  of 
engine  cranks,  and  with  the  perspiration  streaming  from  him.  He 
was  blowing  like  steam-puffs,  and  muttering  incoherent  curses  on  his 
luck  and  natives  generally. 

As  soon  as  I  entered  both  threw  away  their  sticks  and  sprung  to 
their  feet,  insisting  on  my  making  the  attempt,  which  was  done  as 
soon  as  I  could  recover  from  the  mirth  their  efforts  excited.  Hav- 
ing frequently  practised  it,  I  was  successful,  but  we  were  careful 
in  future  to  be  provided  with  either  matches  or  fire. 


CHAPTER    IV. 
/ 

RAIATEAN    POLITICS. 

FOR  several  months  previous  to  our  arrival,  Raiatea  had  been  the 
theatre  of  strange  events.  To  make  them  more  perfectly  understood, 
it  may  not  be  inappropriate  to  record  a  few  items,  which,  though 
having  no  direct  bearing  upon  our  narrative,  will  exhibit  the  political 
situation  of  the  group  at  that  time. 

While  effecting  the  conquest  of  the  Georgian  Islands,  Tahiti,  and 
Eimeo,  the  French  occasionally  made  demonstrations  on  the  Society 
Islands,  where  at  Huahme,  Raiatea,  and  Borabora,  their  intrigue  and 
bribery  failed,  and  their  engagements  were  attended  by  signal  defeat 
from  the  brave  islanders,  until  British  interference  limited  them  to 
their  present  possessions.  Thus,  during  successive  years,  the  lee- 
ward islands  were  harassed  by  a  desultory  warfare,  affording  their 
inhabitants  ample  opportunity  for  displaying  their  warlike  propensity, 
and  familiarizing  them  with  the  use  of  fire-arms.  The  experience 
thus  obtained  has  been  in  frequent  requisition  since  the  close  of  the 
war,  for  both  Huahme  and  Raiatea  have  at  intervals  been  disturbed 
by  internal  dissensions,  having  two  respective  parties  arrayed  against 


238  Reef-Ravings  in  the  South  Seas. 

each  other.  These  islands  are  all  independent.  Huahine  and  Mau- 
piti  have  their  queens,  aud  Raiatea  and  Borabora  their  kings  ;  but  it 
is  with  Raiatea  that  we  at  present  have  to  do. 

The  name  of  the  king  of  this  island  is  Tamatoa,  descendant  of 
a  king  of  that  name,  who  was  grandfather  to  Queen  Pomare  of  Ta- 
hiti, and  father  to  the  queen-regent  of  Huahine.  I  should  judge 
him  to  be  near  sixty  years  of  age  ;  he  has  a  very  light  com- 
plexion, but  something  unpleasant  in  the  expression  of  his  counte- 
nance. To  strangers,  he  is  hospitable,  but  in  government,  a  would- 
be  despot,  while  his  word  is  faithless.  The  present  difficulties  grew 
out  of  a  simple  instance  of  this  arbitrary  disposition.  Tamatoa,  the 
king,  being  absent  at  Tahiti,  appointed  a  regent  in  his  stead  who 
partook  fully  of  the  characteristics  of  his  master,  enforcing  the  laws 
at  his  discretion.  According  to  the  ancient  Raiatea  hau,  or  primi- 
tive form  of  government,  the  first  fruits  were  given  to  the  king. 
This  custom  also  extended  to  the  sea,  and  the  first  fish  taken  in  a 
new  net  or  canoe  were  forfeited  by  the  possessor.  On  one  occasion, 
Tamare,  chief  of  a  western  district,  and  next  in  rank  to  the  king, 
had  launched  a  new  canoe,  and  in  conformity  with  this  law,  de- 
posited the  first  fruits  of  his  success  at  the  feet  of  the  king's  regent, 
who  was  his  inferior  in  rank.  Not  content  with  this,  the  insatiate 
deputy  called  for  the  second  result  of  his  labors.  This  Tamare  re- 
fused, and  gave  him  to  understand  that  such  an  act,  having  reference 
to  a  person  of  his  rank,  would  be  without  a  precedent  in  the  annals 
of  Raiatea.  But  the  regent  refused  to  be  convinced,  declared  the 
property  of  Tamare  to  be  confiscate,  and- virtually  deprived  him  of 
his  authority.  Tamare  felt  himself  an  injured  man,  and  assembled 
around  him  a  few  malcontents  who  participated  in  his  humiliation. 
He  explained  to  them  the  true  policy  of  their  king,  which  was  to  re- 
establish the  ancient  form  of  government,  whereby  he  or  his  minions 
would  be  at  liberty  to  enter  their  cultivation  and  deprive  them  of 
what  they  pleased,  and  in  case  of  remonstrance,  the  old  custom 
would  be  resorted  to,  placing  the  offender  in  a  canoe  and  sending 
him  adrift,  without  food  or  paddle,  from  the  leeward  side  of  the 
island. 

With  about  fifty  adherents,  the  chief  retired  to  his  district,  and 
raised  the  standard  of  rebellion.  The  regent  saw  too  late  that  he 


A  Heathen  Skirmish.  239 

had  involved  himself  in  a  serious  difficulty,  and  a  dispatch  was  im- 
mediately sent  for  King  Tamatoa  ;  on  his  return,  the  king  deemed  it 
politic  to  compromise  the  affair  with  the  liberal  party,  promising  to 
reinstate  his  opponent  in  his  privileges  and  immunities.  This  was 
consented  to  conditionally ;  namely,  that  the  private  property  of  his 
adherents  should  be  respected  and  no  longer  considered  a  royal  pre- 
rogative ;  and,  further,  that  the  king  should  abide  implicitly  by  the 
laws  enacted  in  the  settlement,  and  which  he  had  sworn  to  support. 
But  this  was  deemed  presumptuous.  Tamatoa  thought  he  had  only 
to  extend  his  royal  clemency  to  receive  unqualified  submission, 
and  this  opposition  savored  of  rank  rebellion  :  his  motto  was,  "  Aut 
C&sar,  aut  nihil  /"  and  in  1851  war  was  declared  on  both  sides,  and 
with  occasional  intermission,  it  has  continued  to  the  present  day. 

The  campaign  was  first  opened  by  the  king,  who  threw  out  par- 
ties of  skirmishers  that  effected  nothing,  and  were  invariably  re- 
pulsed. The  foreigners  at  the  settlement  never  take  part  in  these 
wars,  and  at  this  time  they  were  continually  startled  by  reports  that 
Tamare  was  coming  in  force  to  massacre  and  destroy  all  before  him, 
for  he  had  continued  to  advance  until  he  had  reached  Haman«ne,  or 
Cook's  Harbor,  and  intrenched  himself  just  below  Captain  Hunter's 
plantation.  King  Tamatoa  determined  to  strike  a  decisive  blow,  and 
accordingly  marshalled  his  forces,  some  three  hundred  fighting  men, 
which  he  commanded  in  person.  A  portion  of  these  warriors  pro- 
ceeded by  sea  to  the  scene  of  action,  about  six  miles  distant,  hav- 
ing swivels  lashed  upon  the  sterns  of  some  of  their  canoes,  while 
Tamatoa  with  the  remainder  made  his  way  by  land.  The  rebel 
chief's  line  of  fortification  was  simple,  extending  from  the  shore  to 
one  of  the  mountain  spurs,  consisting  of  a  narrow  ditch  and  an  em- 
bankment formed  of  earth  and  cocoanut  logs,  cannon-ball  proof,  and 
mounting  several  guns  of  various  calibre.  To  defend  this  he  had 
but  seventy-five  men — like  the  force  of  the  king,  armed  with  mus- 
kets and  spears.  The  attack  was  commenced  in  the  morning,  and 
although  the  Royalists  were  defeated,  there  was  no  lack  of  bravery 
on  the  part  of  the  old  king,  whose  infirmities  prevented  him  from 
shouldering  a  musket.  Rallying  his  discomfited  warriors,  cane  in 
hand,  he  hobbled  on  in  advance,  cheering  as  he  led  them  towards  the 
mtrenchments  that  were  momentarily  vomiting  forth  flame,  until  a 


240  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

musket-ball  in  the  groin  brought  him  to  the  ground,  from  whence  he 
was  borne  to  the  rear  by  his  attendants.  The  fight  by  sea  was 
equally  desperate  ;  the  armed  canoes  delivered  their  fire  boldly  un- 
til beaten  off  by  the  cannonade  from  the  shore.  On  one  occasion  a 
man  while  baling  was  shot  through  the  neck,  which  checked  his 
operations  for  a  moment,  but  recovering  himself,  he  wound  his  malo 
around  the  wound,  and  continued  his  occupation.  The  Liberals 
having  gained  an  advantage,  sallied  from  their  intrenchments,  and 
then  commenced  a  bush  fight  among  the  guavas,  in  which  these  na- 
tives delight,  each  endeavoring  to  secure  an  advantage  by  strategy. 
In  one  instance  two  were  opposed  to  each  other,  and  the  survivor  re- 
lated with  gusto  the  stratagem  by  which  he  conquered  his  adversary. 
Both  had  taken  positions  a  short  distance  from  each  other  behind 
trees,  each  with  a  loaded  musket,  and  watching  an  opportunity  to 
shoot  the  other.  Finally,  one  of  them  removed  his  hat  to  the  muzzle 
of  his  gun,  cautiously  displaying  it  from  the  side  of  the  tree,  as  if  in 
the  act  of  reconnoitering ;  a  moment  after  the  report  of  a  musket 
rang  through  the  forest,  and  the  hat  was  pierced  by  a  bullet.  Ad- 
vancing bareheaded,  he  met  his  helpless  adversary  coming  towards 
him,  and  levelling  his  piece,  shot  him  dead. 

The  retreat  became  a  rout,  and  those  who  remained  in  the  settle- 
ment were  soon  aware  how  the  battle  was  going  by  the  fugitives 
and  the  wounded,  conveyed  to  the  residences  of  the  foreigners, 
who  maintained  a  strict  neutrality.  It  was  a  scene  of  confusion  ; 
the  Royalists  were  certain  of  returning  crowned  with  laurels  to  an 
anticipated  banquet,  and  "  sound  of  revelry  by  night ;"  but  instead, 
the  road  was  now  lined  with  fugitives  retreating  towards  Opoa. 
What  property  they  could  not  carry  with  them  was  left  in  the  pos- 
session of  foreigners,  while  fighting  men,  the  youthful  and  the  de- 
crepit, retreated  en  masse.  The  wounded  king  was  conveyed  in  a 
canoe  to  one  of  the  motus  or  islets  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor, 
where  a  number  of  his  warriors  rallied  around  him,  determined  to  make 
a  final  stand.  The  victors  passed  through  the  town,  advancing  until 
opposite  this  rendezvous,  and  would  have  crossed  over  and  carried 
the  island  by  assault,  but  for  a  French  armed  schooner  that  stationed 
itself  between  the  island  and  the  main.  This  checked  their  effer- 
vescing spirits  ;  they  returned  and  took  quiet  possession  of  the  town, 


Results  of  the  War.  241 

which  they  have  since  retained,  while  Tamatoa  was  subsequently 
removed  to  Opoa,  where  he  has  established  his  head-quarters. 

After  this,  Tamare  assumed  the  title  of  Governor,  and  his  au- 
thority was  acknowledged  by  the  appertaining  island  of  Tahaa  ;  the 
course  pursued  by  him  has  been  liberal  and  conciliatory  to  all  par- 
ties, whereas  the  king  consoles  himself  with  threats  of  vengeance, 
which  he  has  never  yet  ventured  to  put  into  execution.  At  the 
Governor's  (Tamare)  request,  many  of  the  royal  party  returned  to 
their  former  habitations,  but  the  majority  continue  their 'residence 
with  the  king  at  Opoa.  In  person,  Tamare  is  about  forty-five  years 
of  age,  tall  and  athletic,  having  an  open,  intelligent  countenance  :  his 
ordinary  dress  is  like  that  of  the  other  natives,  with  the  exception  of 
a  sort  of  military  cap  and  faded  gilt  band.  In  council  his  orations 
are  brief  and  to  the  point.  I  could  never  detect  a  shade  of  vanity  in 
his  character ;  for  though  holding  frequent  intercourse  with  him,  he 
has  never  once  alluded  to  his  victories. 

His  father,  who  bore  the  same  name,  was  a  successful  warrior 
before  him.  When  King  Tapoa  of  Borabora  came  up  to  conquer 
Raiatea  in  1832,  the  former  king  of  this  island,  after  an  unsuccess- 
ful combat,  surrendered  his  authority  to  the  victors  ;  but  like  the  old 
Roman  who  ransomed  his  country  with  iron  and  not  gold,  Tamare 
assembled  his  warriors  from  his  district,  and  told  the  king  it  was  his 
prerogative  to  rule,  but  not  to  barter  away  the  liberties  of  his  subjects. 
Accordingly,  a  battle  was  fought  off  Tahaa,  in  which  the  invaders 
were  repulsed  with  slaughter,  and  the  independence  of  the  Raiatea 
hau  secured. 

Although  the  majority,  both  natives  and  foreigners,  approve  the 
policy  of  the  governor,  and  would  be  glad  to  see  the  kingdom  con- 
solidated in  his  name,  yet  his  authority  is  not  recognized  by  any 
foreign  power  having  intercourse  with  the  island,  for  every  ratified 
treaty  exhibits  the  signature  of  Tamatoa.  When  the  recently  ap  _^ 

pointed  consul  for  the  Society  Islands,  B.  Tonp  Nicholas,  Esq.,"" 
arrived  at  Raiatea,  he  found  the  Liberal  party  the  strongest ;  never- 
theless, it  was  necessary  he  should  receive  his  exequatur  from  the 
king,  and  for  this  purpose  he  was  sent  for  from  Opoa.  After  the 
usual  formalities  had  been  complied  with,  it  was  endeavored  to  effect 
a  reconciliation  between  the  two  factions.  Tamare  professed  his 

16 


242  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

willingness  to  resign  his  authority,  provided  the  king  would  come 
and  reside  among  them.  This  his  majesty  partially  promised  to  do, 
if  his  portion  r  ^he  revenue  already  received  should  be  granted  him. 
The  request  was  complied  with  ;  but  after  obtaining  the  money,  he 
embarked  with  his  attendants  in  their  canoes,  proceeded  to  the 
eastern  portion  of  the  settlement,  where  he  purchased  a  large  amount 
of  ammunition,  and  retired  immediately  to  Opoa,  bidding  defiance  to 
the  Liberals. 

Such  was  the  condition  of  affairs  at  the  period  of  our  arrival. 
Anticipating  the  possibility  of  a  war,  the  natives  were  idle,  and 
neglected  to  cultivate  their*  lands,  preferring  to  subsist  upon  the 
spontaneous  products  of  the  soil ;  the  result  was,  that  the  vicious 
propensities  that  had  long  lain  dormant  were  again  awakened,  and* 
theft  of  property  was  of  frequent  occurrence.  Nor  were  the  mis- 
sionaries exempt  from  these  depredations.  I  was  informed  by  one 
of  them  that  he  found  it  cheaper  to  purchase  supplies  from  the  na- 
tives than  to  rear  them  himself,  owing  to  this  pilfering  propensity. 


CHAPTER    V. 

"  SAIL,     Or— NEW    ACQUAINTANCES. 

ONE  morning  Bob  came  running  in  and  reported  a  sail  off,  the 
eastern  point  of  Tahaa,  to  us  a  welcome  piece  of  intelligence,  for 
we  hoped  an  opportunity  would  be  afforded  for  leaving  the  island. 
Howard,  who  was  an  old  sea-dog,  took  his  telescope  and  went  out 
upon  the  verandah  to  reconnoitre,  and  presently  reported  the  sail  to 
be  an  American  whaler  standing  in  for  the  harbor.  This  was  a 
damper,  but  we  hoped  at  least  to  obtain  a  change  of  diet,  if  we  even 
had  to  go  back  to  the  days  of  "  good  old  horse,"  for  we  were  desti- 
tute of  salt,  nor  was  there  any  to  be  procured  in  the  settlement. 
Whoever  the  stranger  might  be,  we  were  determined  to  welcome 
him  to  our  humble  abode. 

It  should  have  been  mentioned  that  a  division  had  taken  place 


An  Eccentric  Judge  243 


in  our  family  a  few  days  previous.  Merton  and  Jasper  rented  a 
house  a  short  distance  from  us,  from  which  they  came  near  being 
ejected  by  the  propensity  of  the  former  for  fresh  delicacies.  In  a 
spring  near  the  house,  the  wife  of  the  proprietor  kept  a  pet  eel, 
which  she  fed  every  day,  snapping  upon  the  water  with  her  fingers, 
when  his  eelship  would  creep  out  from  a  rocky  crevice  and  wriggle 
his  way  to  the  surface  to  receive  his  accustomed  portion.  Of  this 
fact  Merton  was  ignorant,  and  going  out  one  morning  to  the  spring 
with  his  pail,  he  was  agreeably  surprised  to  see  an  inviting  object 
nicely  coiled  up  on  the  bottom,  and  he  naturally  fancied  he  saw 
the  white  flesh  quivering  in  the  frying-pan.  Returning  hastily  to  the 
house,  he  tied  a  fork  to  a  stick,  answering  the  purpose  of  a  spear, 
and  after  again  reaching  the  spring,  he  thrust  it  deliberately  through 
the  back  of  the  unsuspecting  pet.  A  violent  commotion  immedi- 
diately  succeeded,  and  amid  the  mud  and  confusion,  the  eel  made  his 
escape  ;  the  affair  subsequently  leaked  out,  and  Merton  was  com- 
pelled to  make  an  humble  apology,  but  he  was  regarded  by  the 
woman  as  a  monster  of  cruelty  ever  afterwards. 

In  a  short  time  our  new  arrival  anchored  abreast  of  the  settlement, 

and  it  proved  to  be  an  acquaintance,  Captain  A ,  of  the  ship 

N ,  whom  both  Howard  and  I  had  last  seen  in  Honolulu.     At 

our  request,  he  took  up  his  abode  with  us  during  his  sojourn  at 
Raiatea,  arid  from  him  we  procured  important  additions  to  our  stock 
of  provision  ;  he  had  come  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  a  supply  of 
wood  and  recruits. 

I  It  is  hoped  that  the  introduction  of  two  or  three  new  acquaint- 
ances will  not  be  looked  upon  as  irrelevant,  inasmuch  as  their  pres- 
ence at  the  time  was  a  source  of  convenience  and  gratification.  Let 
me  first  present  my  friend  Doctor  Doan,  who  is  modestly  blushing  at 
the  honor  thus  conferred,  a  quality  peculiar  to  goodness  of  heart ;  his 
honorary  distinction,  for  he  occupies  the  post  of  Chief  Justice  of 
Raiatea,  has  in  nowise  chilled  his  social  sentiments,  nor  biased  his 
benevolent  feelings.  He  is  still  a  young  man,  having  highly  respect- 
able connections  in  the  United  States  ;  at  an  early  age  the  propen- 
sity for  roving  became  irresistible  ;  in  Europe  he  marvelled  over  the 
antiquities  of  art,  and  afterwards  sported  the  poncho  and  sombrero  to 
the  distraction  of  South  American  belles.  He  "  pitched  and  minced 


244  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

horse-pieces"  to  his  heart's  content  on  American  whalers  in  this 
ocean,  and  having  deserted  at  the  Marquesas,  was  considered  a 
prodigy  by  the  ladies,  who  decorated  him  with  cocoanut  oil  and  yel- 
low tumeric,  appending  to  his  wrists  and  ankles  ornaments  of  por- 
poise teeth  and  old  men's  beards ;  his  multifarious  rovings  finally 
terminated  at  the  South  Sea  Paradise,  Tahiti.  In  this  group  he  had 
resided  nearly  twelve  years,  three  or  four  of  which  have  been  passed 
at  Raiatea.  At  his  house,  a  snug  little  tenement  in  the  lower  part 
of  the  settlement,  I  found  that  he  connected  the  pursuits  of  commerce 
with  jurisprudence  and  pharmacy,  for  numerous  flashy  prints  were 
temptingly  displayed  upon  his  shelves,  which  also  glistened  with 
shining  cutlery.  In  one  corner  of  the  apartment  was  a  small  but 
well-selected  library,  besides  a  medicine-chest,  partially  empty.  He 
had  married  a  native  wife,  and  three  or  four  male  pledges  of  mutual 
affection  were  the  most  boisterous  illustrations  of  their  kind  I  ever 
witnessed  ;  for,  regardless  of  parental  threats,  I  have  seen  them 
extended  at  full  length  upon  the  floor,  beating  a  "  tattoo"  with  their 
feet,  while  roaring  defiance. 

He  performed  the  office  of  good  Samaritan  for  the  settlement,  and 
was  a  strong  Liberal,  expounding  the  laws  and  interpreting  for  the 
governor.  He  has  frequently  entertained  us  with  illustrations  of  na- 
tive eloquence  and  incidents  of  character. 

In  the  yard  adjoining  lived  Captain  Irvine,  a  subject  of  her  maj- 
esty, and  a  strong  loyalist,  a  straightforward  and  industrious  man, 
.attending  simply  to  his  own  business  ;  and  yet  he  had  managed  to 
incur  the  resentment  of  his  neighbors.  We  always  found  him  hos- 
pitable and  obliging,  and  what  was  better,  perfectly  independent-  of 
public  opinion.  He  had  long  resided  upon  the  island,  and  had  been 
appointed  pilot  by  King  Tamatoa  ;  previous  to  this,  he  had  been  en- 
gaged in  the  pearl  fishery,  and  by  visiting  this  island,  to  procure 
supplies  of  ti-o-6,  or  preserved  bread-fruit,  for  the  Paumotuan  divers, 
he  received  that  name  from  the  natives,  but  it  has  subsequently  been 
corrupted  by  foreigners  into  Tio. 

Monsieur  Guillaume  Auguste,  a  French  trader,  and  his  capitaine, 
M.  Flores,  must  not  be  omitted,  for  they  were  hospitable  entertainers ; 
and  at  the  house  of  the  former,  I  have  banqueted  on  a  variety  of 
delicacies,  which  he  assured  me  were  "  tout  de  Paris"  « 


Illness,  and  Manifestations  of  Sympathy.  245 

At  the  extreme  eastern  portion  of  the  settlement  was  the  residence 
and  trading  house  of  Messrs.  Jordan  &  Lassiter,  to  whose  civili- 
ties we  were  greatly  indebted.  Jordan  was  a  Boston  Yankee,  and 
Lassiter  an  Englishman,  yet  they  both  jogged  along  together  like 
clockwork. 

These  acquaintances,  with  a  few  others,  constituted  our  social 
circle.  They  have  been  introduced,  less  from  considerations  of 
superior  merit,  than  from  a  passing  tribute  to  their  attentions  and 
hospitality.  We  may  have  occasion  to  refer  to  them  hereafter. 

One  evening  we  were  sitting  together  in  the  verandah,  enjoying 
the  breeze  fresh  from  the  sea,  and  listening  to  the  sweet  harmony  of 
voices  in  the  yard  adjoining,  when  gradually  I  felt  a  strange  sensa- 
tion creeping  over  me,  of  which  I  found  it  impossible  to  divest  my- 
self. I  had  sat  down,  as  I  supposed,  in  perfect  health,  and  this 
change  was  unaccountable  ;  it  certainly  was  a  symptom  of  illness 
the  more  unpleasant  as  its  occurrence  could  be  attributed  to  no  act 
of  my  own.  I  arose  to  retire,  and  staggered  giddily  to  the  bed.  In 
the  morning  I  awoke  with  a  burning  fever.  This  was  a  new  source 
of  annoyance,  for  two  or  three  pleasure  excursions  had  just  been 
planned  out,  and  by  this  unforeseen  event  I  was  rendered  a  mer,e 
cipher. 

A  servant  was  immediataly  dispatched  for  Dr.  Doan,  who  soon  after 
arrived,  with  a  countenance  full  of  commiseration,  bringing  with  him 
two  or  three  vials  containing  suspicious-looking  mixtures.  Perfectly 
helpless,  I  yielded  implicitly  to  his  advice,  and  swallowed  his 
bteck  draughts  and  boluses  without  comment.  Tamare,  the  chief, 
visited  me  frequently  with  his  wife  and  daughter.  The  latter  was  a 
strange  little  creature,  with  a  pretty  face,  and  heart  of  adamant. 
Drawing  the  curtains  aside,  she  would  say  with  mock  sympathy, 
"laurana  6e  Tdmate  tdne"  (Salutations  to  you,  Thomas.)  After 
placing  her  hand  gently  upon  my  feverish  face,  she  would  suddenly 
withdraw  it,  exclaiming  with  feigned  astonishment,  "A  !  mea  Idhi  te 
weawea  teia  mahdna  /"  (Why !  how  warm  you  are  to-day !)  then 
bursting  into  a  laugh,  she  would  drop  the  curtains,  and  hasten  to 
romp  with  her  companions  in  the  yard  or  upon  the  verandah.  They 
brought  whatever  they  thought  would  be  conducive  to  my  comfort, 
and  I  was  at  the  time  much  affected  by  the  kindness  of  a  native 


246  Reef-Ravings  in  the  South  Seas. 

woman,  who  sent  me  now  and  then  delicacies  of  her  own  prepara- 
tion, and  for  which  I  could  not  prevail  on  her  to  accept,  a  farthing  on 
my  recovery. 

Our  model  system  of  domestic  economy  was  fast  becoming  dilap- 
idated. Howard  was  absent  the  greater  part  of  the  time  in  com- 
pany with  Captain  A ,  and'Bob,  whom  I  supposed  to  be  a  faithful 

fellow,  proved  recreant  to  his  duty,  and  acted  as  if  he  were  lord  of 
the  manor.  One  night  I  called  him  to  my  room  and  gave  him  his 
dismissal,  together  with  every  other  domestic  ( ? )  about  the  estab- 
lishment, save  the  cook,  for  they  proved  worse  than  useless.  I 
frequently  detected  them  through  the  blinds  passing  fish  and  bread- 
fruit through  the  fence  to  their  friends  outside.  After  this,  I  enjoyed 
a  temporary  respite. 

Merton  came  into  my  room  one  morning,  and  told  me  that  he  was 
going  to  circumnavigate  the  island  with  Captain  Flores  in  his  beau- 
tiful boat,  and  that  they  had  deferred  their  proposed  trip  two  days, 
hoping  for  my  convalescence.  I  told  him  to  be  gone,  and  not  tan- 
talize a  sick  man  with  intelligence  of  that  description.  He  re- 
treated laughing,  promising  to  bring  me  all  the  news  when  he 

returned.  Soon  after,  Captain  A and  Howard  came  in  to  tell  me 

that  they  had  just  returned  from  Opoa,  where  they  had  been  de- 
lightfully entertained  by  his  majesty,  and  that  for  the  morrow  a  party 
had  been  made  up  to  visit  the  western  side  of  Tahaa  and  gather 
oysters,  both  expressing  regrets  that  I  could  not  accompany  them.  I 
rolled  over,  without  uttering  a  word.  Thus  I  endured  ten  days  of 
unspeakable  misery  and  confinement.  During  this  time,  Captain 
A lost  eleven  men  (Hawaiians)  by  desertion,  and  took  his  de- 
parture, carrying  with  him  three  or  four  deserters  from  the  British 
brig  "  Maid  of  Julpha,"  that  had  just  arrived.  When  this  period  had 
elapsed,  I  was  able  to  make  short  walks  to  a  grove  of  lime-trees 
near  by,  which  afforded  a  shady  resting-place,  and  in  a  few  days  I 
communicated  the  pleasant  intelligence  to  the  doctor  that  his  pro- 
fessional services  were  no  longer  required. 

Merton  had  a  wonderful  account  to  tell  of  his  pilgrimage,  as  he 
called  it,  around  the  island,  including  musquito  fights  and  oyster 
pickings — a  sample  of  v/hich  latter  he  brought  me.  They  were 
rock  oysters,  but,  though  small,  of  excellent  flavor. 


A  Gloomy  Prospect.  247 


CHAPTER    VI. 

,»* 

REEFS    AND     CORALINES. 

ABOUT  this  time,  the  month  of  January,  it  commenced  raining,  and 
continued  to  do  so  with  occasional  intermission  for*  several  days. 
Nothing  could  seem  more  dreary  than  our  situation,  for  Hov/ard  and 
I  were  the  sole  occupants  of  the  house  at  the  time.  Looking  out 
upon  the  water,  we  could  no  longer  see  the  misty  hummock  of 
Huahine  that  bounded  the  horizon,  for  tempests  of  wind  and  rain 
were  sweeping  over  the  ocean,  and  the  tempestuous  clouds  that  hung 
like  a  pall  beneath  the  sky  descended  at  times  upon  the  rugged 
mountains  of  Tahaa,  enshrouding  them  in  their  folds.  Even  the 
shady  groves  by  which  we  were  surrounded,  once  so  inviting,  now 
wore  a  cold,  unfriendly  aspect,  for  they  were  reeking  with  humidity. 
Not  a  ghost  of  a  native  was  stirring,  and  our  hours  seemed  prolonged 
to  days,  as  we  listened  to  the  beating  of  the  rain  upon  the  roof  and 
the  roaring  of  the  tempest-tossed  branches.  We  selected  from  our 
library  the  most  gloomy  subjects  for  perusal,  as  fitting  accompani- 
ments to  the  mental  depression  that  floated  in  the  atmosphere  ;  at 
best  the  time  wore  slowly  away,  nor  did  we  recover  our  accustomed 
spirits  until  the  tempest  had  passed  and  the  watery  clouds  had 
melted  beneath  the  enlivening  rays  of  the  sun,  as  welcome  to  us  as 
the  truant  dove  with  its  peaceful  emblem. 

One  pleasant  day  I  prevailed  on  Howard  to  accompany  me  in  a 
small  canoe  to  one  of  the  islets  that  bound  the  entrance  to  the  har- 
bor, promising  that  I  would  do  the  paddling,  which  was  nearly  two 
miles  from  where  we  resided.  We  borrowed  a  little  egg-shell  of  this 
description  of  Peter,  the  old  African,  cook  of  the  Eliza  Mary,  and 
shoved  off.  This  was  another  instance  of  working  passage,  for  hav- 
ing once  taken  our  positions,  it  was  impossible  to  change  them  ; 
while  I  paddled,  Howard  baled  without  intermission.  We  soon  en- 
countered the  trade-winds  sweeping  across  the  deep  lagoon,  and 
Howard  suggested  making  a  "  four  pint"  course  of  it,  thereby  edging 
over  towards  the  reef,  where  the  water  was  sufficiently  shoal  for  him 


248  Reef-Rovings  in  tJte  South  Seas. 

to  use  a  pole.  From  the  shore*  to  the  outer  or  barrier  reef  the  dis- 
tance is  about  a  mile,  but  before  reaching  it  the  water  shoals  gradu- 
ally, and  the  bottom  is  covered  with  most  exquisite  specimens  of 
branching,  arborescent,  and  brain  coral.  At  almost  every  thrust  of 
the  pole,  some  delicate  formation  was  crushed  that  had  cost  the  in- 
visible architects  centuries  of  labor  ;  the  beauty  of  these  submarine 
gardens  was  heightened  by  the  transparency  of  the  water,  which 
enabled  us  to  distinguish  minute  objects  upon  the  bottom,  including 
the  sea-egg,  or  echinus,  the  biche  de  mcr,  or  trepang,  and  various 
specimens  of  mollusca  scattered  over  the  coral  or  upon  the  sandy 
bed.  Among  these  labyrinthic  branches  the  finny  tribe  were  glid- 
ing or  sporting  midway  in  the  clear  element,  then,  frightened  at  our 
approach,  they  would  dart  away  and  disappear  among  the  snowy 
corymbs. 

The  tints  or  colors  of  these  corals  are  white,  or  mingled  with 
light  gray  and  brown.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  this 
marine  animalculine  vegetation  when  beheld  reposing  upon  its  bed 
of  yellow  sand,  through  an  element  as  pure  as  liquid  crystal. 

"Various  theories  have  been  advanced  respecting  the  growth  of 
corals.  Sir  David  Brewster  has  attributed  the  existence  of  these 
beautiful  marine  productions,  including  the  great  barrier  reefs  of  the 
Southern  Ocean,  such  as  are  found  on  the  northeast  coast  of  New 
Holland,  or  on  the  western  side  of  New  Caledonia,  to  the  incalcula- 
ble labors  of  saxigenous,  or  rock-making  polypi  ;  and  has  computed 
that  the  solid  material  formed  by  these  invisible  animalcule,  includ- 
ing "  coraline  limestone  and  other  formations,  whether  calcareous  or 
silicious,  that  are  the  work  of  insect  labor,"  would  furnish  solid  ma- 
terial sufficient  for  the  construction  of  a  satellite.  Along  the  margin 
of  some  of  these  coral  structures  no  soundings  have  been  obtained  at 
a  depth  of  more  than  one  thousand  fathoms.  Now,  it  is  known  that 
these  rock-making  polypi  cannot  exist  beyond  a  few  score  fathoms 
below  the  surface ;  and  Mr.  Darwin,  who  would  also  appear  to  advocate 
this  theory,  has  furnished  the  supposition  that  these  structures,  when 
first  commenced,  were  built  upon  foundations  sufficiently  elevated  to 
accord  with  the  habits  of  these  invisible  architects  ;  that  these  foun- 
dations during  the  lapse  of  ages  have  been  in  a  gradual  course  of 
subsidence,  while  the  structure  has  continued  to  augment  by  new 


Co.-al  Structures.  249 


layers  of  animalculine  secretion  upon  the  upper  portion.  This  cer- 
tainly is  ingenious,  and  may  appear  plausible,  but  a  more  reasonable 
theory  than  this  has  been  advanced.  It  has  been  found,  by  pass- 
ing a  current  of  electric  fluid  through  water  holding  certain  mineral 
particles  in  solution,  that  concrete  substances  resembling  stones  are 
formed.  As  it  is  known  that  sea-water,  especially  within  the  tropics, 
contains  vast  quantities  of  carbonate  of  lime  in  solution,  it  has  been 
reasonably  supposed  that  the  electric  fluid  of  the  atmosphere,  or  that 
engendered  by  the  volcanic  phenomena  that  once  existed  to  a  great 
but  now  limited  extent  in  these  regions,  may  have  produced  these 
wonderful  results. 

There  is  a  great  difference  observable  between  the  structure  of 
the  reef  coral  and  that  of  the  exquisite  corymbs  that  vegetate  in  the 
quiet  lagoons.  The  former  presents  the  appearance  of  a  dark  grayish 
rock,  with  the  exposed  surface  more  or  less  porous  or  perforated, 
where  myriads  of  worms,  sea-slugs,  or  snails,  find  a  resting-place  in 
these  stony  cells  at  low  water,  and  which  swarm  again  when  the 
flood  washes  over  it.  On  being  broken,  it  is  found  to  be  of  compact 
texture,  and  a  microscopic  investigation  has  discovered  fossils. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  beautiful  zoophytic  branches  that  blossom 
in  quiet  waters,  are  built  upon  the  barrier  or  foundation  reefs,  and 
are  the  work  of  a  distinct  species  of  polypi,  if  indeed  the  other  be 
the  production  of  this  genus.  The  animal  structure  of  these  is 
plainly  evinced  by  their  cellular  formation,  as  much  so  as  that  of  the 
honeycomb  of  the  bee.  They  flourish  more  vigorously  in  shoal 
than  in  deep  water,  as  light  has  a  powerful  influence  on  their  growth. 
These  lithophytic  plants  are  by  some  incomprehensible  process  ce- 
mented to  the  rock,  but  are  easily  detached.  I  have  seen  exquisite 
specimens  growing  at  a  depth  of  less  than  a  fathom  beneath  the 
surface.  Corals  do  not  necessarily  attach  themselves  to  the  solid 
reef,  but  frequently  adhere  to  rocks  or  other  substances.  There  is 
a  beautiful  specimen  at  Tahiti,  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Branda,  con- 
sisting, if  I  recollect  aright,  of  a  single  branch  of  madrepore,  adhering 
to  a  large  pearl  oyster-shell,  from  the  side  of  which  it  protrudes  like 
an  excrescence.  It  was  found  at  a  remarkable  depth  in  the  Paumotu 
Archipelago,  by  native  divers. 

But  whether  these  reefs  or  coralines  are  the  "  agglutinated  skel- 


250  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

etons"  of  myriads  of  animalcule,  or,  frowning  and  smiling,  they  were 
ushered  into  existence  by  a  coup-de-main  of  thunder  and  lightning, 
we  leave  to  the  investigation  of  the  scientific.  Once  more  resuming 
our  paddle,  and  taking  it  leisurely,  we  reach  the  motu,  after  floating 
for  an  hour  upon  the  still  lagoon. 

The  inquiry  naturally  suggests  itself,  how  came  these  islets  to 
exist  like  scattered  links  of  one  universal  chain  of  verdure  that  for 
more  than  sixty  miles  might  have  encircled  the  two  islands  ?  The 
inference  from  observation  would  be,  that  the  portions  of  the  barrier 
reef  adorned  with  these  miniature  gardens  must  have  been  more 
elevated  than  those  portions  of  it  at  present  exposed,  which  are  over- 
flowed at  high  water.  This  structure  is  augmented  by  minute  parti- 
cles, shells  and  fragments  of  coral,  which  are  washed  up  and  cement- 
ed to  the  growing  mass,  gradually  increasing  until  it  is  raised  above 
the  surface,  when  these  coral  fragments  are  decomposed  by  exposure 
and  the 'rays  of  the  sun.  Drift-wood,  marine  productions  or  plants, 
and  other  substances  floating  upon  the  sea,  are  deposited,  and  by  de- 
composition the  formation  of  a  soil  commences.  At  this  stage,  it  is 
thronged  by  myriads  of  Crustacea,  whose  skeletons  are  the  ultimate 
price  of  their  abode.  These,  together,  with  the  deposits  of  sea- 
birds,  form  an  earthy  stratum  of  sufficient  richness  to  reproduce  the 
germs  of  the  pandanus  or  cocoanut  that  are  cast  upon  it,  and  in  time, 
other  species  of  the  vegetable  kingdom  that  flourish  in  a  light,  sandy 
soil.  Some  of  these  appear  to  be  thus  in  process  of  formation,  and 
which  in  time  may  rank  with  their  sister  islets. 

We  found  the  motu  to  be  low  and  sandy  ;  its  entire  area  could  not 
exceed  two  acres.  It  was  completely  covered  with  a  jungle  of 
pandanus,  purdu,  cocoanut,  and  a  few  other  varieties  of  vegetation, 
through  which  we  often  found  it  difficult  to  penetrate.  The  ground 
was  in  many  places  perforated  by  those  industrious  burrowers,  the 
land-crabs,  and  the  white  sandy  shore  was  strewed  with  fragments 
of  coral,  in  every  stage  of  decomposition.  On  the  opposite  side  of 
the  narrow  channel  was  the  larger  island  on  which  King  Tamatoa 
found  an  asylum  from  his  pursuers ;  it  is  said  to  contain  a  spring  of 
fresh  water. 

After  hauling  our  canoe  upon  the  sand,  we  retired  to  the  interior 
of  the  island,  and  lighting  our  cheroots,  sat  down  for  a  brief  repose 


Rambles  upon  the  Reef. 


beneath  the  gloomy  shade  of  ihefdla  trees.  So  dense  was  the  forest 
that  the  roar  of  the  breakers  upon  the  reef  sounded  like  the  murmur- 
ing of  distant  thunder,  mingled  with  the  steady  breeze  that  was  now 
bending  and  tossing  the  boughs  above  us.  It  was  proposed  that  we 
should  make  our  way  across  the  island,  and,  if  practicable,  wade  out 
to  the  outer  reef.  But  a  difficulty  arose  at  the  outset  as  to  the 
course  ;  Howard  insisted  on  going  to  the  right,  and  I  to  the  left,  and 
as  neither  would  be  convinced  by  the  other,  we  set  off  in  opposite 
directions.  After  floundering  for  some  time  through  this  vegetable 
network,  I  reached  the  shore,  but,  to  my  mortification,  it  was  at  a 
point  directly  opposite  the  channel,  and  I  found  that  it  would  be  ne- 
cessary to  wade  for  nearly  one-fourth  the  circumference  of  the  island 
to  reach  a  convenient  starting  point  for  the  reef.  I  shouted  to 
Howard,  but  receiving  no  answer,  concluded  that  we  had  both  been 
wise  in  our  own  conceits  :  had  the  canoe  been  there,  I  would  have 
paddled  around,  for  to  walk  on  the  shore  was  impossible,  as  the  trees 
in  this  place  grew  close  to  the  water's  edge,  and  their  branches  were 
drooping  over  it.  The  water  being  only  waist-deep,  and  the  bottom 
hard  and  sandy,  I  waded  the  distance,  and  found  Howard  comfort- 
ably seated  on  an  old  cocoanut  trunk,  arid  laughing  at  me  for  my 
pains. 

We  were  now  in  close  proximity  to  the  great  barrier  reef,  against 
which  the  waves  were  incessantly  beating  ;  the  distance  could  not 
have  been  more  than  thirty  yards,  but  the  water  was  in  some  places 
very  deep.  With  poles  to  steady  ourselves,  we  picked  our  way  by 
stepping  upon  the  immense  coral  blocks  that  arose  from  the  bottom, 
sometimes  making  long  detours  to  avoid  deep  gulfs.  The  water 
deepened  as  we  approached  the  reef,  and  Howard,  who  pre- 
ferred dry  garments  to  sight-seeing,  retreated  to  the  island.  I  con- 
tinued stepping  from  block  to  block,  until  the  water  reached  my 
shoulders,  when  there  was  nothing  but  a  deep  blue  channel  be- 
tween me  and  the  reef;  across  this  I  swam,  and  climbed  up  the 
rocky  wall. 

Plain,  yet  massive,  it  was  one  of  the  greatest  natural  curiosities  I 
ever  beheld  ;  where  I  stood,  its  level  breadth  was  about  fourteen 
feet;  from  this,  its  outer  portion  sloped  gradually  away  at  an  angle 
of  fifteen  degrees,  and  against  it  the  surf  was  rolling  heavily, 


252  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

sometimes  washing  across  it  into  the  still  lagoon.  This  giant 
rampart  was  of  both  dark  and  light  gray  colors,  covered  in  many 
places  with  marine  plants,  and  perforated  by  small  basins,  filled  with 
clear  water ;  in  these  tiny  fish  were  sporting.  Occasionally  sea- 
slugs  are  seen  reposing  in  the  crevices,  and  various  specimens  of 
shell-fish  are  scattered  over  it.  This  immense  barrier  has  a  cir- 
cumference of  more  than  sixty-five  miles,  inclosing  two  beautiful 
islands,  whose  aggregate  circumference  is  fifty-six  miles,  besides 
having  more  than  six  channels  through  it,  navigable  for  vessels  of 
any  class.  It  is  adorned  by  twenty-seven  islets,  varying  in  size  of 
from  one  to  ten  acres  in  extent,  and  nearly  all  of  them  covered  with 
luxuriant  verdure  and  extensive  groves  of  cocoanut-trees.  The  inner 
portion  in  some  places  recedes  gradually,  and  here,  during  the  night, 
the  natives,  spear  in  hand,  fish  by  torchlight ;  at  low  water,  when 
the  sea  is  comparatively  calm,  its  surface  is  exposed,  and  a  person 
may  travel  for  miles  upon  this*  solid  rock,  from  islet  to  islet,  which 
stretch  around  it  in  evergreen  links.  The  view  from  it  is  beautiful 
and  impressive ;  on  one  hand  you  have  the  vast  expanse  of  ocean, 
with  its  snowy  crests,  and  on  the  other,  a  placid  lake  of  varied  tints, 
bounded  by  a  lofty  island,  moulded  into  fantastic  .shapes,  over  which 
is  spread  a  mantle  of  living  green  fringed  by  waving  palms  that  lend 
an  exquisite  finish  to  the  landscape.  The  average  breadth  of  this 
reef,  from  its  outer  edge  to  the  shore,  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half ;  be- 
tween the  northern  and  southernmost  points  of  Raiatea  and  Tahaa, 
the  distance  is  two  miles,  and  from  reef  to  reef,  five  miles  ;  these 
two  points,  receding  at  acute  angles,  leave  a  broad  area  of  water  like 
a  lake,  deep  enough  in  most  places  for  vessels  of  the  largest  class, 
and  an  admirable  place  for  regattas. 

After  strolling  about  upon  the  slippery  rock,  and  filling  my  pockets 
with  conchological  specimens,  I  swam  to  the  island,  where  Howard 
proposed  gathering  shell-fish  for  supper ;  accordingly,  we  waded 
back  towards  the  canoe,  making  observations  by  the  way.  At  one 
place  near  the  shore  my  comrade  halted,  having  seen  small  bubbles 
issuing  from  the  sand  ;  thrusting  his  pole  down  close  to  the  spot,  and 
suddenly  prying  up,  he  dislodged  a  large  crab,  and  hove  it  from  the 
end  of  the  stick  upon  the  beach,  which  it  no  sooner  reached  than  it 
immediately  commenced  a  retrograde  movement  for  the  water  ;  but 


Howard  obtains  a  Prize.  253 

hastening  on  shore,  we  caught  him  when  he  had  nearly  effected  his 
escape.  He  proved  an  acceptable  addition  to  our  supper  that  even- 
ing. After  collecting  a  few  specimens  of  coral,  and  exploring  the 
opposite  side  of  the  island,  we  again  embarked,  this  time  with  the 
wind  in  our  favor,  and  reached  the  landing-place  in  front  of  our 
house  before  sunset. 

We  found  Doctor  Doan  awaiting  our  arrival,  and  having  related 
to  him  all  the  wonders  we  had  seen,  he  laughed  at  us,  promising  that 
if  we  would  accompany  him  some  day,  he  would  show  us  marine 
curiosities  of  which  we  had  never  dreamed. 


CHAPTER.  VII. 

A    SABBA  TH. 

THE  day  following  was  the  Sabbath.  All  was  tranquil;  not  a 
wreath  of  smoke  curled  above  the  foliage,  and  not  a  canoe  glided 
upon  the  still  waters  ;  the  universal  quiet  and  repose  were  emble- 
matical of  the  design  for  which  it  was  consecrated. 

At  an  early  hour,  children,  arrayed  in  their  best  attire,  passed  by 
with  their  books  to  attend  the  Sabbath-school,  and  at  a  later  hour, 
adults  assembled  to  attend  divine  service  in  their  church.  Whatever 
might  have  been  their  conduct  during  the  week,  Sunday  was  ob- 
served with  the  strictest  decorum,  and  in  a  most  exemplary  manner. 
They  wore  their  ordinary  costume,  though  perhaps  of  finer  quality, 
and  with  greater  reference  to  decoration.  The  females,  instead  of 
going  bareheaded,  wore  bonnets  platted  from  the  stalk  of  the  arrow- 
root, which,  after  the  necessary  preparation,  is  of  a  light  straw  color, 
delicate  and  exceeding  beautiful ;  but  this  description  of  head-dress 
fashioned  from  it  is  ill  shaped,  improperly  adjusted,  and  one  of  the 
most  unbecoming  appendages  they  could  possibly  adopt.  To  judge 
from  appearances,  one  would  infer  that  the  fashion  introduced  by  the 
ladies  of  the  mission  about  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  had 
been  preserved  to  the  present  day  without  the  slightest  innovation. 


254  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

Most  of  them  carried  a  London  edition  of  the  Tahitian  Bible  in  a 
finely  braided  basket  or  bag,  to  preserve  it. 

In  company  with  Merton,  I  attended  morning  service.  The  in- 
terior of  the  church  was  plainly  furnished,  having  simply  a  formida- 
ble pulpit;  small  altar,  and  comfortable  seats.  Through  the  open 
blinds,  the  sea-breeze  rendered  the  apartment  refreshingly  cool. 
Nearly  two  hundred  persons  were  assembled,  and  among  these  our 
Mangaia  men  were  conspicuous  by  their  orange-colored  tiputas,  (a 
garment  resembling  the  Spanish  poncho,)  and  all  observed  the  most 
profound  attention  to  the  services,  which  were  conducted  by  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Platt.  We  were  particularly  pleased  with  the  singing,  for  the 
voices  of  the  congregation  were  in  perfect  unison,  these  islanders 
having  no  other  guide  than  a  delicate  perception  and  inherent  love 
of  harmony.  I  should  mention,  however,  that  occasional  interrup- 
tions occurred,  by  wrinkled  deacons  administering  reproof  to  disor- 
derly juveniles  who  had  brought  guavas  and  mapes  with  them  for  a 
lunch  during  service. 

A  simple  faith  had  temporarily  united  in  one  common  bond  of  fel- 
lowship opposing  warriors  who  had  spilt  each  other's  blood,  and  who 
were  again  to  be  drawn  up  in  hostile  array.  On  these  occasions, 
personal  animosities  are  forgotten,  and  the  hands  that  to-day  clasp 
the  sacred  symbol,  may  on  the  morrow  brandish  weapons  for  mutual 
destruction. 

In  the  education  of  their  converts,  the  missionaries  of  this  group 
have  had  greater  reference  to  scriptural  knowledge,  than  instruction 
in  the  ordinary  and  higher  branches.  In  consideration  of  the  idle 
and  warlike  propensity  of  the  natives,  this  course  may  perhaps  be 
judicious,  but  I  should  consider  it  questionable  ;  had  they  exhib- 
ited the  energy  and  perseverance  that  have  characterized  teachers 
in  Hawaii,  thereby  discovering  to  the  natives  their  own  intellectual 
capacities,  and  the  exhaustless  physical  resources  at  their  command, 
a  different  result  would  have  been  witnessed.  As  it  is,  the  majority 
of  them  are  profoundly  ignorant  of  those  acquirements  which  would 
naturally  instil  into  their  minds  ideas*  of  a  higher  order,  and  have 
a  tendency  to  elevate  them  from  the  degrading  influences  they 
are  prone  to  indulge.  But,  too  much  praise  cannot.be  awarded  these 
laborers  for  the  good  they  have  already  accomplished.  They  have 


Thoughts  upon  Missions.  255 

fought  the  good  fight,  and  rescued  a  nation  from  idolatry  in  its  most 
hideous  form,  substituting  a  spiritual  faith  instead ;  though  the 
pathway  of  duty  has  been  strewed  with  thorns,  their  hearts  have 
been  cheered  by  a  consciousness  of  sincerity  and  the  assurance  of 
future  reward. 

When  the  missionaries  were  first  settled  in  this  group  in  1797, 
they  unfortunately  erred  in  their  nautical  calculations,  having  omitted 
to  lose  a  day  in  crossing  the  meridian  opposite  that  of  Greenwich, 
so  that  the  Sabbath  observed  here  is  the  true  Saturday.  Since  the 
conquest  of  the  Georgian  Islands,  the  French  have  very  properly 
corrected  this  mistake,  contrary  to  the  wishes  of  the  resident  mis- 
sionaries. While  at  Tahiti  and  Moorea  the  natives  are  worshipping, 
at  the  leeward  islands  the  ordinary  vocations  are  pursued.  The 
same  is  the  case  with  the  Spaniards  at  the  Philippine  Islands. 

From  careful  observation,  I  should  say  that  a  greater  reverence  is 
manifested  for  the  Sabbath  in  this  group,  Tahiti  excepted,  than  at  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  not  only  publicly,  but  also  in  private  ;  while  the 
outward  deportment  of  the  natives  would  lead  one  to  suppose  that 
greater  respect  was  entertained  for  morality.  Most  families  faith- 
fully observe  their  devotions,  and  I  have  frequently  paused  to  listen  to 
the,ir  sacred  melodies  swelling  through  the  groves  in  the  still  evening. 

After  the  mission  was  first  established  in  these  islands,  years  of 
patient  toil  were  consumed  before  beneficial  results  were  apparent, 
so  strongly  were  the  natives  addicted  to  their  idolatrous  customs ; 
when,  in  1812,  King  Pomare  of  Tahiti  embraced  the  faith,  and  was 
baptized,  he  did  so  against  the  wishes  of  his  subjects,  only  a  few 
hundred  of  whom  were  hopefully  converted.  So  late  as  1815,  the 
missionaries  estimated  the  number  of  converts  throughout  the  group 
not  to  exceed  five  hundred.  Since  then  the  work  has  steadily  pro- 
gressed, and  if  the  condition  of  these  islanders  since  their  evan- 
gelization is  in  many  respects  unenviable,  it  cannot  be  attributed 
to  the  renunciation  of  heathenism,  as  some  have  foolishly  asserted, 
but  to  an  obstacle  more  formidable  to  missionary  labors  than  the 
idolatry  they  endeavor  to  subvert.  It  is  the  baneful  influence  of 
foreign  innovation  that  in  this  ocean  has  followed  close  upon  the 
track  of  spiritual  conquest,  which  can  hardly  attain  its  object,  ere 
compelled  to  concentrate  its  resources  for  a  war  of  self-defence. 


256  Reef-Ravings  in  the  South  Seas. 

A  comparative  glance  at  the  former  condition  of  these  islanders 
will  exhibit  the  nature  and  magnitude  of  the  victory  that  has  been 
achieved.  In  many  respects  this  resembled  that  of  the  unevangelized 
Hawaiians  :  the  government  was  of  the  most  arbitrary  description, 
the  life  and  property  of  the  subject  being  at  the  mercy  of  a  despotic 
ruler.  In  their  domestic  relations  they  were  equally  unhappy,  for 
the  tyranny  of  a  king  to  his  vassal  was  exhibited  in  a  minor  degree 
by  the  husband  towards  his  wife,  who  was  prohibited  from  his  privi- 
leges and  enjoyments,  and  degraded  to  menial  occupations.  Polyg- 
amy was  common,  and  there  were  those  whose  profession  was 
infanticide.  Their  wars  were  extremely  desolating,  and  were  con- 
ducted with  sanguinary  ferocity,  the  victorious  party  visiting  its 
vengeance  alike  upon  the  aged  and  infirm,  innocence  and  infancy. 
Such  as  were  spared  were  devoted  to  slavery  or  heathen  sacrifice. 

Their  notions  of  a  future  state  were  vague  and  indefinite.  Though 
they  believed  in  "  a  sweet-scented  paradise"  and  "  a  foul-scented 
abode,"  both  were  tenanted  by  .divinities  whose  attributes  were  fear 
and  servile  obedience  to  the  commands  of  tneir  self-constituted  vice- 
gerents. The  worst  feature  of  their  fanatic  idolatry  was  the  neces- 
sity for  human  sacrifices  ;  and  as  the  king  was  recognized  as  the 
supreme  head  of  the  Church,  having  power  over  subordinate  rulers, 
the  spiritual  mandates  were  enforced  by  the  secular  arm,  and  the 
nuncios  seldom  returned  without  bringing  their  victims  bleeding  to 
the  altar,  over  which  the  professedly  inspired  priests  would  chant  a 
Te  Deum. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

A    TRIP    TO    OPOA. 

IT  has  before  been  remarked  that  Teo,  alias  Captain  Irvine,  was 
a  staunch  Royalist,  and  it  remains  to  be  further  stated  that  he  was 
the  possessor  of  property  at  Opoa,  the  residence  of  the  king ;  this 
place  he  was  in  the  habit  of  visiting  frequently  for  trading  purposes, 
also  to  procure  supplies  of  purdu  and  coral  blocks  for  the  construe- 


Scenery  by  the  Way.  257 


tion  of  his  fences  and  contemplated  jetty  and  aqueduct.  These 
periodical  trips  were  performed  in  a  snug  sail-boat,  tight  as  a  bucket, 
and  which,  he  said,  possessed  the  wonderful  faculty  of  steering 
itself. 

At  his  invitation,  I  accompanied  him  one  morning,  leaving  Howard 
to  keep  house  alone  ;  for  provision  by  the  way,  we  took  several 
boxes  of  sardines,  a  few  sea-crackers,  and  a  couple  of  bottles  of 
claret.  Opoa  is  about  eight  miles  distant  from  the  settlement,  and 
situate  in  a  southeast  direction  ;  fortunately,  the  day  was  fine,  and 
the  trades  not  blowing  as  usual,  the  light  breeze  stirring  was  fair. 
No  pleasure-boating  could  surpass  this,  for  we  lounged  easily  upon 
the  stern  sheets,  and  the  sails  were  so  trimmed  to  the  wind  that 
neither  of  us  was  required  at  the  tiller.  Nanau,  our  little  curly 
headed  boy,  sang,  Teo  smoked,  and  I  gazed  abroad  at  the  ever- 
changing  scenery. 

The  landscape,  though  charming,  seemed  the  abode  of  solitude  ; 
apparently  undisturbed,  the  forest  swept  down  to  the  water's  edge, 
crowning  ridges  and  clothing  ravines  ;  yet  along  these  blooming 
shores,  for  wide  intervals,  no  hut  sought  shelter  beneath  the  spread- 
ing boughs,  and  no  voice  re-echoed  through  the  silent  groves.  We 
passed  several  deep  bays,  and  at  the  head  of  one,  Teo  informed  me, 
was  a  battery,  mounting  heavy  guns,  erected  years  ago  by  the  na- 
tives, in  anticipation  of  an  attack  from  the  French.  A  little  hamlet, 
situate  in  one  of  these  valleys,  was  called  Wairahi,  on  account  of 
its  large  stream  of  water. 

At  eleven  o'clock  we  reached  Havila,  where  the  captain  had  come 
into  possession  of  an  extensive  tract  of  real  estate  by  his  wife. 
This  was  a  lovely  spot,  having  a  clear  stream  winding  through  a 
broad  extent  of  level  land,  covered  with  an  open  grove  of  trees,  in 
which  the  cocoanut  and  bread-fruit  were  conspicuous.  At  the  dis- 
emboguement  of  the  stream,  the  banks  were  walled  up,  and  had  once 
been  spanned  by  a  substantial  bridge,  but  this  had  been  suffered  to 
decay,  and  all  that  remained  for  a  substitute  was  a  solitary  cocoa- 
nut  log. 

After  anchoring  the  boat  near  the  bridge,  I  followed  Teo  into  a 
house,  6r  rather  shed,  while  Nanau  was  dispatched  for  young  cocoa- 
nuts.  In  the  house  we  found  half  a  dozen  girls,  and  about  the  same 

17 


258  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

complement  of  young  men ;  all  recognized  Teo  ;  in  fact,  he  was 
known  to  every  native  throughout  the  group.  They  had  been  in- 
dulging in  an  ute,  consisting  of  singing  and  gesticulations,  a  species 
of  diversion  prohibited  by  law.  At  Teo's  request,  two  noble  speci- 
mens of  bread-fruit  were  thrown  upon  the  fire  to  roast,  while  we 
strolled  up  the  valley. 

Our  path  was  along  the  bank  of  the  stream,  occasionally  obstructed 
by  projecting  bushes  ;  but  soon  emerging  to  an  open  space,  we  saw 
several  houses  apparently  well  tenanted,  where  men  were  employed 
in  preparing  ti-o-o.  This  consists  simply  in  roasting  the  bread- 
fruit, and  after  divesting  it  of  the  rind  with  a  cowrie-shell  prepared 
for  that  purpose,  burying  it  under  ground,  where  it  is  suffered  to  re- 
main for  months  to  undergo  decomposition.  When  disinterred,  the 
odor  emitted  by  the  dark  mass  is  very  offensive,  and  yet,  as  an  article 
of  diet,  the  ti-o-o  is  relished  by  the  natives,  and  esteemed  a  luxury 
by  the  pearl-divers  of  the  Paumotus. 

The  stream  looked  so  inviting  that  I  divested  myself  of  garments, 
to  enjoy  a  cool  bath,  while  a  group  of  children  sat  watching  me  from 
the  banks.  The  water  was  perfectly  clear,  and  waist-deep  ;  the 
bottom  was  covered  with  sharp  shells,  against  which  Teo  cautioned 
me,  but  with  all  my  care,  I  wounded  myself  in  the  right  foot,  occa- 
sioning me  afterwards  great  inconvenience. 

Returning  to  the  house,  we  found  our  food  cooked  to  a  nicety. 
Whether  owing  to  hunger  or  otherwise,  I  fancied  that  bread-fruit 
never  tasted  half  so  delicious,  and  Teo  was  of  the  same  opinion. 
This,  together  with  our  sardines  and  young  cocoanuts,  afforded  us  -a 
substantial  meal.  The  beverage  furnished  by  the  latter  is  something 
superior.  To  be  enjoyed  in  its  perfection,  it  should  be  tasted  soon 
after  the  nut  is  plucked.  It  is  then  cool  and  refreshing,  having  the 
taste  of  a  slightly  acidulated  drink.  No  idea  of  its  quality  can  be 
formed  by  tasting  the  rancid  liquor  from  the  old  imported  nuts,  for 
among  the  natives  they  are  seldom  used  unless  for  fattening  swine 
or  manufacturing  oil.  I  have  attempted  to  carry  these  vegetable 
goblets  to  sea,  but  they  soon  become  stale  and  insipid,  more  espe- 
cially those  tjiat  have  been  fractured  by  falling  to  the  ground.  On 
some  of  the  islands  of  the  low  archipelago,  the  natives  have  HO  other 
water  than  that  afforded  by  these  nuts  ;  and  so  expert  do  they  be- 


Vanity  a  Female  Quality.  259 

come,  that  from  the  ground  they  can  look  up  and  discover  their  age 
and  quality — an  important  attainment  where  the  laborious  process  of 
climbing  is  necessary  to  procure  them.  These  trees  are  very  pro- 
lific, and  some  are  said  to  produce  more  than  three  hundred  nuts 
each  during  the  year.  I  have  counted  upwards  of  sixty  cocoanuts 
upon  one  tree,  in  various  stages  of  growth,  where  they  hung  in 
clusters. 

Our  bread-fruit  was  the  oval,  a  choice  description.  When  broken 
open,  it  was  of  a  light  straw  color,  mealy,  and  possessing  a  delicious 
flavor. 

After  receiving  on  board  the  cocoanuts  gathered  by  Nanau, 
also  a  few  oranges,  with  difficulty  obtained,  for  'they  were  out 
of  season,  we  weighed  anchor,  and  glided  along  this  beautiful 
shore,  shaded  by  an  interminable  grove.  At  two  o'clock  p.  M.  we 
reached  the  outskirts  of  Opoa,  on  the  northwestern  entrance  of  the 
bay,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  which  was  the  residence  of  the 
king.  At  this  place  were  some  dozen  houses,  scattered  beneath  a 
forest  of  cocoanut-trees,  the  occupants  of  which  came  down  to  the 
beach  to  welcome  our  arrival.  Owing  to  the  shoalness  of  the  water, 
we  could  not  approach  within  twenty  yards  of  the  shore,  but  a  couple 
of  stout  natives  waded  in  and  carried  us  off  on  their  shoulders. 
All  seemed  rejoiced  to  see  Teo  ;  and  after  iaurdnas  were  exchanged, 
the  men  begged  to  look  at  the  new  tipis  (hatchets)  he  had  promised, 
while  the  girls  clustered  around,  inquiring  whether  he  had  any  new 
styles  of  prints  to  introduce.  All  these  requisitions  were  complied  with 
as  soon  as  possible,  for  some  stout  men  had  been  dispatched  to  the 
boat  to  remove  a  large  chest  of  merchandise.  Several  hatchets  were 
immediately  purchased,  and  the  enviable  possessors  commenced  test- 
ing their  merits  upon  cocoanut  and  bread-fruit  logs,  while  fathom  after 
fathom  of  flashy  calico  was  measured  off  for  such  of  the  girls  as 
were  able  to  purchase  new  hauamus,  or  dresses.  These  they  girded 
around  their  waists,  and  strutted  about  the  premises  with  evident  sat- 
isfaction, until  one  of  the  old  women  remarked,  in  a  fit  of  envy,  that 
she  "  didn't  like  to  see  young  folks  put  on  quite  so  many  airs  in  dis- 
playing finery  purchased  with  borrowed  funds." 

Intending  to  call  again  at  this  place  on  our  return,  the  merchan- 
dise was  re-embarked,  and  we  continued  our  journey.  Soon  passing 


260  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

the  last  point,  we  opened  the  beautiful  bay  of  Opoa,  a  sheet  of  crys- 
tal water,  having  a  sandy  bottom,  and  when  visible,  bestudded  with 
exquisitely  formed  coralines.  Its  extremity  was  bounded  by  a  broad 
valley,  having  lofty,  irregular  ridges  on  either  side,  and  around  this 
semicircle  of  verdure  were  scattered  habitations,  barely  peeping 
through  the  luxuriant  foliage.  The  settlement  of  the  king  is  on  the 
southeastern  side  of  the  bay,  and  at  the  time  we  approached  it,  I 
thought  I  had  never  witnessed  a  more  pleasing  ideal  of  Polynesian 
tranquillity  and  beauty.  There  was  not  a  vestige  of  foreign  innova- 
tion to  mar  the  effect :  the  wicker-like  huts  seemed  reposing  beneath 
the  boughs  of  this  ancient  grove,  and  towering  high  above  all,  was 
the  gigantic  trimk  of  an  oka,  or  banian,  the  loftiest  and  most  beau- 
tiful tree  I  ever  beheld  in  the  Pacific. 

In  front  of  his  house,  Teo  had  built  a  sort  of  jetty  or  butments,  of 
coral  blocks,  upon  which  rested  cocoanut  logs  to  facilitate  access  to 
the  boat,  or  vice  versa.  The  domicil  was  of  the  most  ordinary 
description  of  rustic  architecture,  less  than  the  dimensions  of  an 
ordinary  poultry-yard,  having,  like  the  majority  of  native  houses, 
neither  door,  nor  mats  upon  the  floor,  which  was  strewed  with  dried 
grass.  Pretensions  to  a  partition  were  displayed  by  a  row  of  stakes, 
dividing  the  interior  into  two  unequal  portions  ;  in  the  smaller  apart- 
ment was  a  long  and  narrow  frame- work,  resembling  a  hearse,  but 
designed  for  a  bedstead,  which,  through  courtesy,  he  insisted  that 
I  should  occupy.  This,  however,  affords  no  criterion  for  judging  of 
his  domestic  arrangements  in  the  settlement,  where  his  house  is 
commodious,  and  perhaps  better  furnished  than  any  other  on  the 
island.  Our  blankets,  &c.,  were  disembarked,  and  carried  by  offi- 
cious natives  to  the  house,  where  we  endeavored  to  arrange  them 
previous  to  paying  court  to  royalty,  and  while  thus  engaged,  we  re- 
ceived a  message  from  his  majesty  to  join  him  at  supper. 

The  house  occupied  by  the  royal  family  at  that  time  was  of  the  ordi- 
nary native  description,  with  one  of  its  sides  open,  and  its  floor  cover- 
ed with  a  profusion  of  mats  ;  the  interior  was  encumbered  by  chests 
containing  personal  property,  disposed  of  without  particular  reference 
to  order.  This  was  merely  a  temporary  place  of  sojourn,  while  a 
more  appropriate  residence  was  being  erected.  Teo  presented  me 
first  to  the  king  and  then  to  his  consort,  both  of  whom  were  gra- 


Royal  Hospitality.  251 


ciously  pleased  to  extend  a  cordial  welcome,  inviting  me  to  sit  upon 
the  mats  with  them  and  partake  of  their  repast.  There  was  no  lack 
of  attendants,  one  of  whom  brought  me  a  cup  of  tea.  Her  majesty 
sent  me  from  her  own  plate  the  head  of  a  boiled  albicore,  a  favorite 
fish,  and  this  portion  is  esteemed  by  them  a  delicacy.  We  had  the 
usual  complement  of  bread-fruit,  feis,  taro,  and  cocoanuts  ;  during 
the  banquet,  his  majesty  condescendingly  offered  me  a  portion  of  the 
ti-o-6  he  was  eating,  but  though  wishing  to  oblige  him,  my  stomach 
urged  a  strong  remonstrance. 

The  evening  was  sultry,  and  we  were  sorely  pestered  by  musqui- 
toes.  I  laid  down  by  a  miserable  cocoarmt  lamp,  endeavoring  to  read 
a  piece  of  an  old  romance  I  had  accidentally  discovered,  but  with 
the  dazzling  glare  and  the  natives  and  musquitoes  that  infested  the 
house,  I  was  compelled  to  abandon  the  attempt.  About  half  past 
seven  a  drum  was  beat,  and  the  former  of  our  intruders  dispersed. 
How  Teo  slept,  I  never  inquired,  but  my  experience  was  dismal,  for 
I  was  condemned  to  alternate  buzzings  and  suffocation,  by  covering 
my  head  with  the  quilt  and  removing  it  for  respiration. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

THE     SACRED      GROVE. 

THE  wonders  of  Opoa  were  yet  to  be  seen.  In  former  days, 
when  idolatrous  worship  was  the  universal  creed,  this  locality  was 
deemed  sacred  above  all  others,  not  only  to  the  inhabitants  of  this 
group,  but  also  to  those  of  adjacent  islands  speaking  a  foreign 
tongue,  and  all  resortecl  here  to  offer  human  sacrifices  to  the  god 
Oro.  The  site  of  the  maracs,  or  temples,  is  on  a  level  strip  of  land 
extending  into  the  lagoon,  a  short  distance  beyond  the  settlement, 
"an  appropriate  spot  for  heathen  orgies.  They  are  now  in  ruins,  and 
remain  only  as  monuments  of  human  depravity. 

Having  signified  to  Teo  my  wish  to  visit  them,  he  provided  a 
couple  of  boys  to  accompany  me,  though  no  one  could  mistake  finding 


262  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

them  by  simply  following  the  shore-road.  Passing  through  an  ex- 
tensive grove  of  bread-fruit  trees,  we  emerged  to  an  open  space, 
where  upon  the  beach  rose  the  trunks  of  several  large  aito,  or  iron- 
wood  trees,  in  shape  resembling  the  poplar,  but  more  shadowy  and 
gloomy.  We  presently  came  to  a  rude  fence  constructed  of  coral 
blocks  and  cocoanut  logs,  extending  from  the  shore  to  the  mountain ; 
after  climbing  over  this,  we  were  within  the  sacred  precincts. 
The  path  for  a  considerable  distance  was  along  an  avenue  of  venera- 
ble trees,  whose  branches  and  thick  foliage  wove  a  dark  canopy  over- 
head, through  which  the  sunbeams  never  penetrate.  Two  girls  who 
had  followed  us  now  passed  by,  with  their  arms  encircling  each 
other's  waists,  and  strolling  leisurely  in  the  shade,  caused  the  wood- 
land solitudes  to  re-echo  their  merry  songs.  Once,  their  lives  would 
have  paid  the  forfeit  of  their  temerity.  We  turned  aside  to  the  left 
towards  the  shore,  and  found  considerable  difficulty  in  picking  our 
way  through  the  tangled  underwood.  Presently  we  came  upon  a 
solitary,  upright  monumental  stone,  about  seven  feet  high  and  four 
feet  broad,  concerning  which  my  youthful  guides  could  give  me  no 
information.  We  now  reached  one  of  the  principal  relics ;  it  was 
an  inclosure,  perhaps  twenty-five  feet  in  length  by  six  in  breadth, 
formed  of  two  parallel  rows  of  massive  stones,  set  up  like  slabs,  and 
the  portions  above  ground  varying  in  height  from  two  to  six  feet. 
The  area  within  was  covered  with  loose  stones,  across  which,  in 
some  places,  huge  trunks  had  fallen,  and  were  mouldering  ;  also  two 
skulls  and  a  few  other  human  relics  were  exposed. 

I  sat  down  upon  a  fallen  trunk  to  make  a  sketch  of  the  spot,  but 
was  immediately  so  besieged  by  musquitoes  that  I  was  obliged  to  call 
the  two  boys  to  my  assistance,  who  commenced  beating  the  air  with 
a  couple  of  leafy  branches.  After  finishing  the  outline,  we  crossed 
the  path,  and  plunging  deeper  into  the  forest,  reached  the  principal 
of  these  relics.  This  was  a  huge  mound,  one  hundred  feet  in  length 
by  twenty  in  breadth  and  ten  in  height.  It  was  walled  up  by  im- 
mense slabs,  some  of  them  basaltic,  others  coral.  The  dimensions 
above  ground  of  one  which  I  measured  were,  height  and  breadth 
respectively  ten  and  eight  feet,  and  thickness  twenty-one  inches. 
We  ascended  this  human  hecatomb  by  a  narrow  space  between  two 
of  its  massive  supporters,  and  found  the  summit  covered  with  loose 


Heathen  Relics.  263 


rocks  and  stones,  over  which  a  rank  vegetation  was  creeping. 
Through  thin  crevices  in  every  direction  grew  a  broad-leafed  plant, 
called  by  the  natives  lauoha.  I  also  noticed  several  small  trees  grow- 
ing upon  it,  having  the  formidable  name  of  to-pe-ta-pu-a-ta-tea. 

A  more  fitting  retreat  for  consummating  inhuman  rites  could  not 
have  been  selected.  Around  the  slender  stems  of  the  pandanus,  dark 
leaves  droop  like  mourning  plumes  from  their  spiral  ccowns,  and  on 
every  side  rise  the  ancient  trunks  of  the  tomdnu,  mape,  and  purdu — 
their  commingled  branches  weaving  a  leafy  canopy  over  these  mys- 
terious-haunts, the  abode  of  solitude  and  funereal  gloom. 

The  divinity  of  these  temples  was  Oro,  the  God  of  War,  and 
numerous  were  the  victims  immolated  upon  his  bloody  altars  to  pro- 
pitiate his  favor.  The  divinities  of  these  islands  were  numerous, 
but  the  chief  was  Oro,  and  to  him,  after  various  ceremonies,  mothers 
dedicated  their  male  offspring,  that  they  might  become  great  war- 
riors. His  was  an  insatiate  disposition,  and  the  most  trivial  occur- 
rences would  call  for  renewed  sacrifices  ;  one  of  these  w(as  the  sac- 
rifice of  restoration,  which  required  no  less  than  seven  victims. 
This  arose  from  the  desecration  the  marac  had  sustained  from  an  in- 
vading force,  that  drove  its  possessors  to  the  mountains,  breaking 
down  the  branches  of  the  sacred  grove  with  which  to  cook  their  food. 

The  manner  of  procuring  victims  was  peculiar  :  when  one  was  re- 
quired, the  king  would  send  messengers  to  the  chief  of  a  district, 
who  inquired  of  him  (metaphorically)  whether  he  had  "  a  broken 
calabash  at  hand  ;"  a  person  was  designated,  and  one  of  these  am- 
bassadors of  death  dealt  him  a  blow  upon  the  head,  which  stunned 
him  ;  immediately  the  others  rushed  up  to  complete  the  work.  The 
body  was  then  placed  in  a  basket  of  cocoanut  boughs  and  carried  to 
the  marae  in  savage  triumph,  to  be  deposited  upon  the  altar.  With 
these  sacrifices  was  connected  a  painful  feature.  When  one  of  the 
members  of  a  family  had  fallen,  the  others  were  reserved  for  a  simi- 
lar fate  ;  a  retreat  to  the  mountains  or  a  neighboring  island  could 
not  save  them,  for  they  were  soon  discovered,  and  hunted  down 
for  the  horrid  purpose.  An  affecting  account  of  the  last  sacrifice 
that  occurred  at  Tahiti  is  given  by  Mr.  Williams,  and  which  I  sub- 
join : — 

"  Poraare  was  about  to  fight  a  battle,  which  would  confirm  him  in 


264  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

or  deprive  him  of  his  dominions.  To  propitiate  the  gods,  there- 
fore, by  the  most  valuable  offerings  he  could  command,  was  with  him 
an  object  of  the  highest  concern.  For  this  purpose,  rolls  of  native 
cloth,  pigs,  fish,  and  immense  quantities  of  other  food  were  pre- 
sented at  the  maraes ;  but  still  a  tabu  or  sacrifice  was  demanded. 
Pomare  therefore  sent  two  of  his  messengers  to  the  house  of  his 
victim,  whom  4ie  had  marked  for  the  occasion.  On  reaching  the 
place,  they  inquired  of  the  wife  where  her  husband  was.  She  re- 
plied that  he  was  in  such  a  place  planting  bananas.  '  Well,'  they 
continued,  '  we  are  thirsty  ;  give  us  some  cocoanut  water.'  She  told 
them  that  she  had  no  nuts  in  the  house,  but  that  they  were  at  liberty 
to  climb  the  trees  and  take  as  many  as  they  desired.  They  then 
requested  her  to  lend  them  the  o,  which  is  a  piece  of  iron-wood 
about  four  feet  long  and  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  with  which 
the  natives  open  the  cocoanut.  She  cheerfully  complied  with  their 
wishes,  little  imagining  that  she  was  giving  them  the  instrument 
which  in  a  few  moments  was  to  inflict  a  fatal  blow  upon  the  head  of 
her  husband.  Upon  receiving  the  o,  the  men  left  the  house,  and 
went  in  search  of  their  victim  ;  and  the  woman  having  become  rather 
suspicious,  followed  them  shortly  after,  and  reached  the  place  Justin 
time  to  see  her  husband  fall.  She  rushed  forward  to  give  vent  to 
her  agonized  feelings,  and  take  a  last  embrace.  But  she  was  im- 
mediately seized  and  bound  hand  and  foot,  while  the  body  of  her 
murdered  husband  was  borne  from  her  sight.  It  appears  that  they 
were  always  exceedingly  careful  to  prevent  the  wife  or  daughter,  or 
any  female  relative,  from  touching  the  corpse ;  for  so  polluting  were 
females  considered,  that  a  victim  would  have  been  desecrated  by  a 
woman's  touch  or  breath  to  such  a  degree  as  to  have  rendered  it 
unfit  for  an  offering  to  the  gods.  While  the  men  were  carrying  their 
victim  to  th$  marde,  he  recovered  from  the  stunning  effect  of  the 
blow,  and  bound  as  he  was  in  the  cocoanut-leaf  basket,  he  said  to  his 
murderers,  '  Friends,  I  know  what  you  intend  to  do  with  me  :  you 
are  about  to  kill  me  and  offer  me  as  a  tapu  to  your  savage  gods  ;  and 
I  also  know  that  it  is  useless  for  me  to  beg  for  mercy,  for  you  will 
not  spare  my  life.  You  may  kill  my  body,  but  you  cannot  hurt  my 
soul  ;  for  I  have  begun  to  pray  to  Jesus,  the  knowledge  of  whom  the 
missionaries  have  brought  to  this  island.  You  may  kill  my  body,  but 


A  Human  Sacrifice.  265 


you  cannot  hurt  my  soul.'  Instead  of  being  moved  to  compassion  by 
his  affecting  address,  they  laid  him  down  upon  the  ground,  placed  a 
stone  under  his  head,  and  with  another  beat  it  to  pieces.  In  this 
state  they  carried  him  to  their  'savage  gods.'  I  forbear  to  make  any 
comment  upon  these  facts,  and  leave  them  to  find  their  own  way  to 
the  hearts  of  my  readers,  and  to  show  them  how  much  the  heathen 
need  the  Gospel.  One  of  the  assassins,  whose  business  it  was  to 
procure  human  sacrifices,  sailed  with  me  in  my  last  voyage,  and  not 
only  confirmed  the  foregoing  statement,  but  detailed  many  other 
transactions  equally  tragical,  in  which  he  had  been  engaged.  But 
painful  as  the  incident  is,  it  is  a  relief  to  know  that  this  was  the 
very  last  sacrifice  ever  offered  to  the  gods  of  Tahiti ;  for  soon  after 
it  occurred,  Christianity  was  embraced,  and  the  altars  of  the  '  savage 
gods'  ceased  to  be  stained  with  human  blood." 

There  were  numerous  other  relics  of  heathenism  within  these 
precincts,  but  I  did  not  visit  them,  as  my  time  was  limited.  I  left 
this  Golgotha  impressed  with  the  conviction  that  a  nobler  conquest 
had  never  been  achieved  than  that  which  wrested  the  human  intel- 
lect from  the  fetters  of  a  demon  superstition. 


CHAPTER    X. 

A    STROLL    UP    THE    VALLEY. 

AFTER  remaining  a  short  time  at  the  house,  I  followed  the  shore 
of  the  bay  in  an  opposite  direction,  accompanied  by  the  two  boys,  to 
visit  the  celebrated  Oka  tree.  On  the  way,  I  noticed  sweet  potato 
cultivations  on  the  mountain-side  of  the  road,  adjoining  the  houses  of 
the  natives.  In  fact,  agricultural  evidences  were  more  numerous  here 
than  at  the  chief  settlement.  We  soon  reached  the  object  of  our 
visit,  a  magnificent  specimen  of  the  vegetable  kingdom,  lofty  and 
graceful,  massive,  yet  unique.  It  was  a  species  of  the  Banian  Indi- 
cus,  to  which  it  bore  a  resemblance,  though  in  many  respects  widely 
different.  Instead*  of  the  low,  broad-spreading  branches  of  other 


266  Reef-Rovings  in  tlie  South  Seas. 

species  that  I  had  seen,  forming  a  grove  with  a  new  progeny  of  sup- 
porters growing  downwards  to  take  root  in  the  earth,  this  arose  on  a 
broad  pedestal  of  what  appeared  Jo  be  a  mass  of  disinterred  roots, 
fantastically  interlaced  with  each  other,  and  having  a  circumference 
of  more  than  ninety  paces,  and  a  height  of.  about  twenty  feet. 
Upon  this  grew  the  solid  trunk  and  branches  of  the  beautiful  tree, 
from  which  drooped  parasitical  shoots,  pendulous  in  the  breeze.  It 
was  a  type  of  majesty  and  beauty. 

Divesting  myself  of  boots  and  watch,  (coat  I  wore  none,)  and 
giving  them  in  charge  of  one  of  the  boys,  I  proceeded  to  climb  this 
natural  ladder — a  task  easily  accomplished — and  with  three  or  four 
natives  descended  into  the  interior.  Here  was  an  apartment  with 
a  nice  floor  of  earth,  having  an  area  of  perhaps  twenty  square  feet, 
though  somewhat  obstructed  by  the  labyrinth  of  supporters.  The 
light  admitted  was  through  the  interstices  of  these  grotesque  roots 
or  trunks,  that  opposed  an  effectual  barrier  to  external  observation. 
After  remaining  a  short  time  in  this  vegetable  grot  of  refreshing 
coolness,  we  made  our  exit  as  we  had  come.  The  natives  have  ro- 
mantic tales  connected  with  the  old  Oha,  where  in  former  days 
high-born  lovers  obtained  stolen  interviews. 

At  ten  o'clock  Teo's  boat  was  freighted,  and  ready  to  start  for  the 
opposite  side  of  the  bay.  Before  embarking,  however,  he  took  me 
a  short  distance  up  the  hillside,  and  showed  me  some  half  dozen 
Irish  potato  plants,  protected  by  a  small  inclosure.  These  domestic 
exotics  looked  thrifty,  and  I  have  not  the  slightest  doubt  that,  were 
proper  attention  bestowed  upon  their  cultivation  among  the  more 
elevated  regions,  they  would  afford  a  prolific  yield,  and  not  degener- 
ate into  sweet  potatoes,  as  some  have  asserted.  •  Just  as  we  were 
leaving,  there  was  a  general  pig  chase  through  the  grove,  by  old  and 
young  ;  but  bristles  was  evidently  a  "  thorough-bred,"  for  he  led  off 
in  fine  style,  sometimes  skirting  the  sandy  shore,  then,  striking  off 
obliquely,  he  would  almost  defy  pursuit  among  the  guava  bushes  on 
the  steep  hillsides,  avoiding  with  wonderful  dexterity  huge  stones 
and  missiles  aimed  at  him  from  every  direction.  It  was  a  chase  in 
which  all  participated  ;  and  the  children  who  were  too  young  to  be 
of  service  followed  in  the  rear  shouting,  while  lean,  worthless  dogs 
stood  in  the  door-ways  and  barked  valiantly.  Of  its  result  I  am  ig- 


Coral  Gathering.  267 


norant,  for,  having  exchanged  salutations  with  their  majesties,  we 
left  before  the  "  chase"  had  been  run  down. 

Our  former  landing-place  was  reached  at  noon,  where  we  partook  of 
a  dinner  of  bread-fruit,  sardines,  and  roast  pig ;  our  remaining  bottle 
of  claret  had  moistened  the  palate  of  some  prowling  vintage-lover  at 
Opoa.  Teo  showed  me  two  exquisite  specimens  of  madrepore  coral 
of  uniform  size,  fan-like  in  form,  and  bleached  to  a  snowy  whiteness. 
If  beheld,  they  would  be  objects  of  envy  to  those  whose  ambition  is 
to  convert  their  mantels  into  marine  museums.  The  waters  here 
abound  with  these  zoophytic  branches.  I  waded  out  a  longdistance 
upon  the  white  sandy  bottom.  It  was  clear  and  sufficiently  shoal  to 
procure  specimens  which  rest  loosely  upon  the  sand,  without  diving, 
for  they  are  easily  detached.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  transparency 
of  the  water,  and  in  wading  slowly  along,  the  optical  illusion  occa- 
sioned by  the  transmission  or  refraction  of  rays  through  a  denser 
medium  seems  to  raise  this  submarine  grove  to  the  surface  with  all 
its  labyrinthine  windings.  Having  loaded  a  boy  who  accompanied 
me,  we  returned  to  the  shore.  The  corals  were  then  washed  in 
fresh  water,  to  remove  extraneous  impurities  and  the  unpleasant  odor 
arising  from  them  when  taken  from  their  native  element ;  after  which, 
they  were  placed  in  an  exposed  situation  upon  the  roof  of  a  house 
to  bleach. 

Leaving  Teo  reclined  upon  the  mats,  surrounded  by  his  inquisitive 
friends,  I  strolled  out  barefooted,  for  my  boots,  by  being  frequently 
saturated  with  salt  water  and  dried  in  the  sun,  had  become  worse 
than  stocks,  and  with  no  definite  object  in  view,  sauntered  leisurely 
through  a  cocoanut  grove  on  the  western  side  of  the  bay.  A  short 
walk  brought  me  to  several  snug  native  houses,  having  good  inclosures, 
and  upon  the  hillside  in  the  rear  fires  were  burning,  where  their  oc- 
cupants were  making  extensive  clearings  for  cultivation.  With  all 
Tamare's  liberal  policy,  I  must  admit  that  the  territory  within  his 
majesty's  jurisdiction  bore  greater  evidences  of  industry,  as  it  was 
also  characterized  by  greater  natural  beauty.  Salutations  were  ut- 
tered as  I  passed,  and  I  was  invited  to  partake  of  their  roast  fish  and 
bread-fruit. 

Approaching  the  head  of  the  bay,  the  thick  forest  again  com- 
mences ;  the  path  winds  beneath  the  shade  of  the  mape  and  purdu, 


268  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

and  just  as  the  sandy  curve  commences,  a  clear  stream  disembogues 
into  the  sea.  This  was  spanned  by  a  single  slender  cocoanut  log, 
and  a  series  of  gymnastic  evolutions  were  required  to  cross  it  in  safety, 
owing  to  its  elasticity.  The  view  up  the  stream,  which  was  unin- 
tercepted  for  about  seventy-five  yards,  was  extremely  picturesque  : 
massive  trunks  were  growing  upon  the  verge  of  its  banks,  and  in 
some  instances  their  branches,  projecting  from  opposite  sides,  en- 
twined with  each  other,  forming  a  shady  bower  over  its  clear 
waters.  I  returned  to  one  of  the  houses  and  hired  a  young  man  to 
convey  me  in  his  canoe  as  far  as  it  was  navigable,  and  after  reach- 
ing the  log  bridge,  which  was  nearly  level  with  the  sea,  we  hauled 
the  canoe  over  and  embarked.  A  deathlike  solitude  reigned 
through  the  forest,  for  not  even  the  chirping  of  a  warbler  was  heard 
among  the  branches.  The  clear  stream  flowed  silently  over  its 
sandy  bed,  eddying  around  moss-covered  roots  of  the  mope,  whose 
fantastic  trunks  rose  like  sentinels  from  the  dark  banks  ;  and  the 
monotonous  plash  of  the  paddle  was  the  only  sound  that  awoke  the 
solitude  as  our  light  canoe  skimmed  its  way  beneath  an  embowering 
canopy.  It  was  a  fitting  retreat  for  the  misanthrope  to  indulge  his 
ghostly  reveries  ;  submitting  passively  to  its  tranquil  current,  he 
might  fancy  himself  floating  upon  the  dreamy  flood  whose  name  is 
oblivion. 

Having  traced  its  sinuosities  for  more  than  a  fourth  of  a  mile,  the 
low  branches  wove  an  impenetrable  network  across  its  surface, 
through  which  it  was  impossible  to  force  the  canoe  with  its  outrigger, 
and  we  accordingly  disembarked  near  a  large  mape  tree,  into  which 
was  driven  an  iron  staple  having  a  small  rusty  chain  attached. 
This,  the  young  man  informed  me,  was  formerly  used  for  securing 
the  boats  of  those  who  visited  the  sugar  plantation  that  once  existed 
in  this  valley,  but  which  had  long  since  been  abandoned.  I  followed 
him  for  nearly  half  a  mile,  when  we  emerged  to  an  open  space  where 
were  fields  of  taro  of  immense  growth,  and  soon  after,  we  heard 
the  distant  roaring  of  the  stream,  which  now  foamed  in  rapids  over 
a  rocky  bed.  A  pleasant  relief  to  this  solitude  was  afforded  by  two 
or  three  native  houses,  situated  upon  its  banks,  and  the  animated 
voices  of  their  inmates.  Without  pausing,  we  continued  on  to  the 
ruins  of  the  old  sugar-mill,  and  here,  surrounded  by  guava  bushes. 


A  Lonely  Valley.  269 


was  the  huge  water-wheel,  still  reposing  upon  its  rickety  frame. 
Near  by  was  all  that  remained  of  the  boiling  apparatus,  with  its 
crumbling  chimney  attached,  and  looming  gloomily  above  the  sea  of 
verdure.  The  whole  seemed  a  melancholy  comment  on  the  struggle 
between  sloth  and  industry. 

Many  years  before,  a  plantation  had  been  commenced  on  this  spot 
by  the  Messrs.  Platt  of  Raiatea,  and  a  better  locality  could  not  have 
been  selected.  Entering  the  forest  with  their  natives,  they  cleared 
a  broad  space,  ploughed  up  the  soil,  and  planted  it  with  sugar-cane. 
A  dam  was  afterwards  built,  the  fall  of  the  water  affording  excellent 
mill  sites.  A  long  sluice  was  dug,  and  the  mill  itself  constructed. 
For  a  while,  all  went  well  ;  the  prolific  soil  yielded  an  ample  har- 
vest, and  the  sugar  manufactured  was  of  good  quality,  and  found  a 
ready  market.  But  soon  after,  the  French  war  broke  out  in  Tahiti, 
and  the  infant  commerce  of  the  leeward  islands  was  paralyzed. 
Internal  dissensions  arose  among  the  natives,  and  the  enterprise 
was  ultimately  abandoned  for  want  of  laborers.  So  complete  has 
been  the  change  that,  save  the  relics  enumerated,  together  with  the 
trench  and  fallen  dam,  no  trace  of  its  former  prosperity  remains. 
Indeed,  I  did  not  notice  a  stalk  of  wild  cane  growing  ;  everything 
was  covered  with  a  wilderness  of  guava,  above  which  rose  the  slen- 
der trunks  of  a  few  cocoanut-trees. 

We  followed  the  bed  of  the  sluice  to  the  dam  ;  thence,  the  bank 
of  the  stream,  for  a  long  distance  ;  and  so  dense  was  the  foliage 
overhead  that  in  no  place  could  the  sunbeams  penetrate.  Here, 
the  rushing  torrent  seemed  to  have  tunnelled  a  path  beneath  its 
leafy  canopy  ;  and  the  humid  atmosphere  nourished  in  rank  luxu- 
riance creeping  evergreens  that  twined  around  moss-covered  trunks, 
and  bending  from  their  boughs  trailed  in  the  dark  water,  the 
sound  of  whose  roaring  alone  disturbed  the  solitude  and  funereal 
gloom.  The  soil  was  a  black  vegetable  mold,  and  no  better  evi- 
dence of  its  richness  could  be  required  than  the  luxuriant  vege- 
tation with  which  it  was  covered,  including  nearly  every  descrip- 
tion of  timber  peculiar  to  the  island,  and  which  was  easy  of  access. 
I  had  no  other  means  of  estimating  the  extent  of  this  valley 
than  that  afforded  by  a  superficial  observation  in  crossing  the 
bay,  but  should  judge  that  it  contained  between  three  and  four 


270  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

square  miles  of  level  or  rolling  land.  The  bay  itself  is  about  a 
mile  in  length,  by  half  that  distance  in  breadth.  During  our  walk, 
we  crossed  a  pavement  of  flat  stones,  between  some  of  which  large 
trees  had  forced  their  way.  I  counted  my  paces  as  I  passed  over  it, 
and  they  were  a  hundred.  My  knowledge  of  the  language  was  too 
limited  to  comprehend  the  explanation  given  of  them  by  the  guide  ; 
but  I  distinctly  understood  that  no  maraes  had  ever  been  erected  upon 
them. 

Having  reached  our  canoe,  we  paddled  down  the  stream,  and. 
afterwards  down  the  bay,  to  the  house  of  the  owner,  whom  I  remu- 
nerated for  his  services.  I  then  retraced  the  road  to  the  house, 
where  Teo  was  just  sitting  down  to  a  roast  pig,  and  wondering  at 
my  long  absence.  We  passed  a  social  evening,  for  we  had  numer- 
ous visitors.  When  we  retired  to  rest,  it  was  to  be  tortured  by  mus- 
quitoes.  I  made  a  promise  that  night  thai,  on  future  excursions 
among  these  islands,  my  musquito-net  should  never  be  forgotten,  and 
it  has  always  been  faithfully  observed. 

In  the  morning,  Nanau  ascended  a  tree  for  young  cocoanuts,  and, 
after  throwing  down  a  sufficient  supply,  we  once  more  embarked,  and 
reached  Havila  about  the  middle  of  the  forenoon.  At  the  house  we 
first  visited,  a  group  of  young  men  were  giving  a  pantomimic  exhibi- 
tion to  a  crowd  of  admiring  belles,  while  two  persons  playing  upon 
bamboo  instruments  regulated  their  movements.  This  description  of 
amusement  is  prohibited,  although  I  saw  nothing  in  it  that  could  have 
an  immoral  tendency,  unless  by  encouraging  habits  of  idleness. 

We  had  towed  down  a  large  raft  of  purau  timber,  aided  by  the  erec- 
tion of  a  mast  upon  it,  having  strips  of  bark  peeled  from  the  logs  for 
stays,  and  our  blankets  tied  together  for  sails.  Before  reaching 
Havila,  Teo  placed  little  Nanau  upon  it,  while  we  bore  up  for  the 
village.  There  were  no  means  of  steering  it ;  but  fortunately  the 
mast  was  "  stepped"  well  forward,  and  from  the  shore  we  could  see 
the  little  fellow  sitting  upon  the  coral  blocks  on  the  raft,  to  avoid  the 
water  that  covered  it,  as  it  swept  steadily  on  over  the  deep  lagoon. 
Two  girls  who  resided  at  the  settlement  begged  a  passage  of  Teo, 
which  he  granted.  Soon  after  reaching  the  raft,  the  wind  veered 
around  to  the  northwest,  attended  by  squalls  and  rain.  This  ren- 
dered our  situation  extremely  unpleasant,  for  the  raft  was  a  perfect 


Working  Passage.     *  271 


drag,  and  prevented  the  boat  from-  beating  to  windward.  Our  pas- 
sengers then  regretted  that  they  had  not  followed  the  road  along  the 
beach,  but,  covering  them  with  our  coats,  blankets  and  mats,  they 
reclined  upon  the  stern-sheets,  and  were  soon  in  a  sound  sleep. 
Teo,  on  my  account,  proposed  anchoring  the  raft,  and  proceeding  to 
the  settlement  by  the  speediest  route  possible  ;  but  this  I  negatived. 
Fortunately  for  the  girls,  a  canoe  from  Opoa  overtook  us,  on  board  of 
which  they  embarked,  while  we  remained  to  tug  at  the  oar  from  two 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  until  eight  in  the  evening,  and  which  I  noted 
was  a  second  instance  of  working  passage,  after  a  pleasure  excur- 
sion in  this  ocean. 


CHAPTER   XI. 

A    POLITICO-LITERARY   FESTIVAL. 

A  CONVIVIAL  party  was  assembled  one  evening  at  Eelspring,  (the 
name  by  which  Merton's  residence  was  designated  after  his  adven- 
ture,) and  some  of  the  old  residents  of  Raiatea  fancied  their  "  stern 
alarums  changed  to  merry  meetings,"  as  they  quaffed  the  ruddy  juice 
provided  for  the  occasion.  For  want  of  a  more  suitable  appendage, 
the  table  was  covered  with  a  clean  white  sheet,  and  over  this  were 
promiscuously  scattered  delicious  fruits,  some  of  them  the  first  of 
their  season,  flanked  on  both  sides  by  goblets  and  decanters  contain- 
ing Cognac  and  sherry,  also  pure  water  from  the  spring  for  the 
abstinent.  From  the  rafters  was  suspended  a  rustic  chandelier, 
fashioned  by  affixing  cocoanut  lamps  to  the  branches  of  a  small  tree- 
top  which  had  been  deprived  of  its  leafy  covering. 

Among  the  guests  was  Dr.  Doan,  who,  owing  to  a  slight  attack 
of  ophthalmia,  wore  a  pair  of  green  goggles,  but  otherwise  he  was 
unimpaired,  and  his  scintillations  of  wit  were  an  acceptable  contri- 
bution to  the  mirth-loving.  As  the  evening  wore  on,  there  was  an 
evident  tendency  to  effervescence  among  some  of  the  spirits  assem- 
bled, and  this  was  manifested  by  songs  and  hornpipes,  and  one  of 
the  party  seized  a  herculean  native  by  the  waist,  and  to  his  con- 


272  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

sternation  attempted  a  polka.  An  American  seaman  present  ascended 
the  rostrum,  (a  kind  of  dais  for  sleeping,)  and  commenced  an  ora- 
tion on  liberty,  disparaging  to  the  British  Lion  and  "  crumbling  mon- 
archies" generally ;  this  gradually  digressed  to  the  "  doings  of  our 
glorious  republic,"  his  extemporaneous  eloquence  being  frequently 
interlarded  with  "  stars  and  stripes"  and  "American  eagle,"  until 
hissed  down  by  the  majority,  who  considered  the  subject  inappro- 
priate to  the  occasion. 

Merton  immediately  jumped  up  and  said  that  the  remarks  of  the 
gentleman  who  had  just  preceded  him  suggested  to  his  mind  a  political 
subject :  he  would  propose  a  tax  on  feis  to  induce  industry  among 
the  natives,  for  as  long  as  they  could  procure  food  that  grew  spon- 
taneously in  the  mountains,  they  would  never  trouble  themselves  about 
tilling  the  soil.  He  considered  affairs  to  be  in  a  deplorable  state,  for 
whether  under  the  administration  of  the  legitimate  or  provisional 
governments,  the  consumers  far  outnumbered  the  producers,  which 
could  only  be  attributed  to  unsound  legislation  ;  in  fact,  the  entire  de- 
partment of  State  required  reorganizing,  for  the  offices  as  at  present 
held  by  foreigners  were  mere  sinecures.  He  said  that  his  first  prop- 
osition would  require  modification  to  bring  it  in  shape,  but  he  merely 
hinted  it  for  the  benefit  of  the  prime  minister,  (meaning  the  doctor,) 
whom  he  saw  present. 

The  doctor  made  a  violent  demonstration  with  his  pocket  hand- 
kerchief, and  rose  at  once  to  reply.  He  said  that  "  the  remarks  of 
the  proprietor  of  Eelspring  were,  to  speak  metaphorically,  like  a 
column  without  a  pedestal,  and  which  he  was  willing  to  attribute  to 
his  ignorance  ;  for,  had  he  taken  the  trouble  to  inform  himself,  he 
would  have  learned  that  the  lands  producing  the  said  feis  were,  and 
had  been  from  time  immemorial,  held  by  the  chiefs  and  wealthier 
classes  as  allodial  property,  or  by  their  dependents  as  limited  fees  ; 
that  no  port.ion  of  them  had  ever  been  considered  a  government  mo- 
nopoly since  its  organization.  With  reference  to  deplorable  affairs, 
he  flattered  himself  that  a  twelve  years'  residence  in  the  group  had 
enabled  him  to  draw  tolerably  correct  conclusions  as  to  affecting 
causes,  and  he  unhesitatingly  pronounced  that  the  chief  maladies 
observable,  both  moral  and  physical,  had  been  entailed  upon  the  ab- 
origines by  resident  foreigners  or  interloping  visitors,  who  were  in 


Jasper's  Song.  273 


the  habit  of  giving  bacchanalian  festivals  and  decrying  immorality, 
while  aiding  and  abetting  it  by  pernicious  example.  He  further 
stated,  that  he  had  never  yet  seen  a  stranger  on  the  island  who,  with 
all  his  theories  on  political  regeneration,  would  venture  to  '  put  the 
bell  on  the  cat's  neck.'  " 

Some  sharp  shooting  then  took  place  between  the  two,  for  Merton 
had  "  caught  a  Tartar ;"  until  Jasper,  wishing  to  change  the  subject, 
stated  that  he  and  Merton  had  been  scribbling  nonsense,  and  begged 
the  doctor  to  criticise  their  productions  ;  but  Merton,  who  had  be- 
come somewhat  nettled  by  the  debate  that  was  going  against  him, 
said  he  was  not  ambitious  of  displaying  his  sentiments,  especially  as 
he  was  to  defer  to  the  opinion  of  a  veterinary  surgeon.  But  the 
audience  insisted  ;  and  when  the  doctor,  delighted  at  the  idea,  prom- 
ised that  his  judgment  should  be  impartial,  Merton  acceded  to  the 
request  of  the  company.  Before  leaving  the  island,  I  obtained 
copies  of  their  productions,  which  are  subjoined  as  they  were 
handed  me. 

In  order  to  install  the  doctor  properly  in  his  new  vocation,  a  dark- 
blue  pareu  was  borrowed  from  a  native,  thrown  over  his  shoulders, 
and  gathered  in  graceful  folds  on  the  left  side,  something  like  a 
toga.  After  this,  a  chair  was  placed  for  him  on  the  dais  which  he 
occupied.  Apero,  a  sort  of  sergeant-at-arms,  with  a  bamboo  in  his 
hand,  was  directed  to  bring  in  an  empty  barrel  and  place  it  before 
him  ,  over  this  was  thrown  a  small  damask  cover,  and  upon  it  three 
or  four  books  were  placed  in  formal  array. 

With  a  dignified  air,  the  judge  arose  and  said  he  was  "  prepared 
to  listen  to  the  poem  of  Mr.  Jasper." 

A  profound  silence  was  maintained,  when  the  individual  thus  ad- 
dressed advanced  beneath  the  chandelier,  arid  (the  judge  meanwhile 
taking  notes)  in  an  off-hand  manner  read  the  following 

SONG. 

"  Our  bark  is  tried,  our  bark  is  true, 
It  loveth  to  bound  o'er  the  ocean  blue, 
With  snowy  sail,  still  up  or  down, 
To  the  zephyr  smile  or  the  tempest  frown. 
Away,  away  it  onward  flies, 
O'er  coral  groves, — 'neath  summer  skies, 
18 


274  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

Where  pearl  and  shell,  profusely  shed, 

Glitter  like  gems  on  ocean's  bed  ; 

O'er  caves  where  crystal  treasures  cling, 

Where  tritons  woo  and  syrens  sing  ; 

In  azure  depths,  while  the  purple  light 

Flows  calmer  than  mist  of  a  summer  night. 

"As  on  we  bound  from  day  to  day, 
Cleaving  the  wave  'mid  foam  and  spray, 
The  song  that  beguiles  the  sunny  hour 
Shall  cheer  us  again,  though  tempests  low'r. 
W'hen  the  sky  grows  dark,  and  storm-winds  sigh 
Plaintive  and  shrill  as  the  sea-bird's  cry, 
We'll  gather  our  sail  to  the  trusty  mast 
That  creaketh  '  Come  on  !'  to  the  howling  blast, 
And  over  the  billow  we'll  lightly  spring, 
Where  revels  the  petrel  on  '  stormy  wing.' 
Should  darkness  and  the  tempest  cloud 
Fling  o'er  the  deep  a  sable  shroud, 
The  anxious  vigils  of  the  night 
Shall  vanish  with  the  rosy  light, 
And  then  with  joy  we'll  hail  the  day 
That  cheers  us  o'er  our  pathless  way." 

When  he  had  finished,  some  of  the  audience  applauded,  while 
Howard  said,  "  Spongy."  The  newly-constituted  judge  looked  on 
with  imperturbable  gravity,  and  after  the  various  demonstrations  had 
subsided,  arose,  and  said  in  a  measured  tone,  "  We  will  listen  to  the 
poem  of  Mr.  Merton." 

This  gentleman  having  taken  his  position  beneath  the  chandelier, 
remarked,  that  he  "  had  a  word  to  offer  in  apology  for  his  subject ; 
that  it  possessed  not  a  shadow  of  foundation,  but  was  merely  an  im- 
promptu on  what  might  occur."  He  then  commenced : — 

"  Though  years  have  flown  by,  yet  in  fancy  I  dwell 
Once  more  on  the  spot  where  I  bade  thee  farewell ; 
Though  years  have  flown  by,  still  in  fancy  I  see 
Again  the  dark  eye  that  beamed  kindly  on  me. 
Though  Time  shall  roll  on,  and  its  withering  trace, 
The  form,  and  each  feature  of  youth,  may  deface ;  * 
Yet  the  sweet  recollection  of  happiness  fled, 
'Round  the  pathway  of  age  a  bright  halo  shall  shed  ; 
And,  though  scenes,  alas  !  varied  with  pleasure  and  pain, 
Through  the  vista  of  years  shall  steal  o'er  me  again, 


Dr.  Doarfs  Critique.  275 

They'll  beguile  the  brief  moments  that  fall  to  my  lot, 
And  the  hours  with  M — n — e  can  ne'er  be  forgot. 
In  fancy  I'll  fly  to  her  ocean-girt  home, 
And  with  hand  joined  in  hand  together  we'll  roam 
Among  the  green  mountains,  along  the  deep  vale, 
Where  sweet  orange  blossoms  are  kissed  by  the  gale, 
And  where  the  bright  flowrets  perennial  bloom, 
To  waft  to  the  sense  their  delicious  perfume, 
And  'mid  every  loved  scene  that  can  lend  a  joy 
In  Nature's  pure  garden,  untouched  by  alloy. 

"  When  the  breath  of  Ro'hutu  creeps  down  from  the  hill, 
Perfumed  by  the  incense  of  grove  and  of  rill, 
'Neath  Eoline's  harp,  then,  at  eve  we'll  repose — 
The  sea-loving  palm,  while  its  melody  flows, 
Where  murmuring  branches  that  rustle  above, 
Like  spirits  in  converse,  seem  whispering  love. 
We'll  silently  watch  'til  a  mellowing  light 
Serenely  encircles  the  sceptre  of  night ; 
And  beaming  soft  radiance,  a  smile  shall  be  shed 
On  wavelets  that  dance  o'er  a  coraline  bed. 

"  When  spirit-like  moaning  steals  over  the  surge, 
Sad  anthem  of  ocean — funereal  dirge ; 
Like  symbol  of  doom  shall  a  magical  pow'r 
Fling  o'er  us  the  spell  of  oblivion's  hour ; 
O'er  earth  and  o'er  sea  shall  its  mantle  unroll, 
And  shed  from  its  pinions  repose  to  the  soul. 
******* 

"  When  Time,  with  its  sorrows,  shall  blight  with  its  breath 
Each  pleasure  of  life,  like  the  whisper  of  Death, 
Two  sweet  consolations  to  mourners  are  given  : — 
To  reflect  on  the  past — to  hope  for  a  Heaven." 

"  Tityre  tu  patula  recubans,  et  cetera?  said  the  doctor,  again  hav- 
ing recourse -to  his  handkerchief,  and  wiping  his  goggles.  "  Apero  ! 
Hand  that  man  a  banana  !  I  should  recommend  him  to  purchase 
half  a  dozen  goats,  and  cross  over  to  Maupiti  and  write  pastorals." 

Howard,  who  sat  near  by,  inquired  of  the  doctor,  in  an  audible 
whisper,  whether  he  had  brought  his  bottle  of  "  Preston"  with  him, 
for  he  certainly  felt  symptoms  of  "  going  off." 

Jasper  jumped  up  and  remarked,  with  mock  indignation,  that  their 
productions  had  not  been  read  for  the  purpose  of  eliciting  any  unne- 
cessary display  of  pedantry. 


276  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

Meanwhile,  Merton,  who  saw  how  the  battle  was  going,  retired  to 
a  corner  of  the  apartment,  and  commenced  writing  on  the  fly-leaf  of 
.a  book. 

The  judge  "  hoped  that  his  admiration  for  their  talents  would  not 
tempt  him  to  any  extravagances.  He  was  aware  the  poems  possessed 
a  sort  of  mechanical  jingle,  or  finger-tallying  prosody,  but  neither  of 
them  contained  an  original  idea.  For  his  part,  he  couldn't  conceive 
what  there  was  in  a  simple  concretion  of  carbonate  of  lime,  whether 
stalactite  or  coral,  that  could  awaken  in  '  aspiring  legislators  or  linen- 
drapers'  such  poetic  frenzy.  Alluding  to  the  first  effusion,  he  remarked 
an  unlawful  license,  when  it  was  stated  that  a  pearl  shell  could  '  glitter 
like  a  gem  :'  and  he  was  consequently  led  to  suppose  that  the  writer 
was  ignorant  of  the  natural  history  of  this  species  of  tcstacea.  The 
mother-of-pearl  was  a  large,  coarse  shell  externally,  a  pair  of  them 
weighing  from  three  to  six  pounds  ;  frequented  deep  water,  where 
they  were  found  in  beds ;  while  the  '  gem,'  or  true  oriental  pearl, 
was  an  excrescence  concealed  within.  He  was  not  aware  that  rays 
of  light  refracted  at  any  depth  in  the  ocean,  underwent  a  '  purple' 
decomposing  process  ;  that,  in  reducing  sail  on  account  of  a  storm, 
it  was  not  customary  to  '  gather  it  to  the  mast,'  unless  the  vessel 
should  have  '  standing  gaffs,'  as  in  case  of  '  spanker2  and  '  spencer' 
of  a  ship's  lower  masts,  when  brails  were  rove  for  that  purpose. 
In  ordinary  phraseology,  by  reducing  sail  was  meant  to  stow  it  upon 
the  yard,  where  it  could  be  properly  secured  by  a  *  bunt  gasket.'  With 
reference  to  the  subsequent  piece  of  mellifluence,  he  considered  it 
too  puerile  to  require  a  critical  notice.  '  The  breath  of  Ro'hutu' 
was  a  very  indefinite  expression,  for  in  this  instance  standing  alone, 
the  word  was  meaningless,  it  being  always  used  in  connection  with 
one  or  the  other  of  two  adjectives ;  as,  'Roohutu  noanoa?  (sweet-scented 
Paradise,)  or,  '  Roohutu  ndmunamuaj  (foul-scented  Purgatory.)  So 
much  for  the  acquirements  of  transient  visitors.  He  regretted  to 
hear  allusion  made  again  to  corals.  If  '  penny-a-liners'  would  for- 
sake the  ideal  for  the  tangible,  and  convert  the  subject  of  their  medi- 
tations into  its  legitimate  uses,  their  efforts  would  be  better  appre- 
ciated by  society.  For  his  part,  he  would  recommend  a  three  days' 
sojourn  in  a  lime-kiln  as  an  antidote  for  this  species  of  mania.  He 
had  been  called  upon  to  deliver  an  opinion,  and  had  done  so.  With 


Mertorfs  Impromptu.  277 

a  delicate  regard  for  the  sensibilities  of  the  two  competitors,  he 
should  decline  drawing  invidious  comparisons,  and  would  finally  beg 
to  be  permitted  to  resign  his  functions  as  judge." 

Having  delivered  his  sentiments,  the  doctor  cast  off  his  toga,  and 
descended  from  the  dais  to  moisten  his  lips  with  a  glass  of  sherry. 
By  this  time  some  of  the  audience  had  begun  to  yawn,  arid  one  of 
them,  whose  head  had  reclined  upon  the  table  during  the  discourse, 
raised  it  with  innocent  stupidity,  and  suggested  "  taking  a  drink  all 
round,"  and  adjourning  "  siney  diey"  At  this  juncture,  Merton  came 
forward  and  said  he  ha,d  a  few  unfinished  lines  which  he  hoped  his 
friends  would  permit  him  to  read.  His  request  was  complied  with, 
and  he  hastily  ran  off  the  following 

IMPROMPTU. 

"  When  sapient  critic  fills  the  chair, 

With  rubicund  proboscis, 
Spanned  by  a  pair  of  goggles  green. 

(A  case  of  amaurosis  :) 
Pretending  merit  humbly  bows 

Before  his  box  of  knowledge, 
Yet,  wondering  how  the  quack  obtained 

An  M.D.  from  a  college. 

"  To  instance  once  his  depth  of  search : 

A  curious  native  sought  him, 
Inquiring  how  the  cocoa-milk 

Its  goblet  shell  was  caught  in. 
This  sage  of  lore,  with  serious  nod, 

Before  him  took  his  staticm  ; 
And,  finger  apex  on  his  palm, 

Replied, — 'Accumulation.' 

"  A  flower  that  blooms  beside  the  path 

Is  called  a  useful  fixture  ; 
'Tis  culled,  and  thrust  into  his  bag 

To  make  a  tonic  mixture. 
With  ancient  dames,  profoundly  skilled, 

A  savant  in  cosmetics  ; 
With  all  his  art,  he  never  need 

Aspire  beyond  obstetrics. 


278  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

"  We  love  him — nay,  we  do  revere 

The  talent  for  his  calling  ; 
Because  he's  proved  himself  to  be 

A  vampire  most  appalling. 
In  politics,  he  knows  his  cue  ; 

When  vigilance  relaxes, 
He  pockets  by  his  knavish  skill 

Both  harbor  dues  and  taxes. 

"  However,  let  us  meekly  bear 

This  critical  abortion  ; 
When  cats  resort  to  monkey  judge, 
They  lose  both  sense  and  portion. 
We  hope  in  future ."  • 

Merton  said  that  was  as  "  far  as  he'd  got,  and  if  they'd  hold  on, 
he'd  finish  it ;"  but  the  doctor  professed  himself  satisfied,  and  will- 
ing to  pass  the  hat  as  it  was. 

Soon  after,  most  of  the  company  dispersed,  and  Doctor  Doan  and 
his  satellites  bade  us  good-night,  and  retired  to  West  End.  A  few 
of  us,  whose  houses  were  almost  contiguous,  indulged  in  a  moon- 
light stroll  along  the  Broom  Road  that  borders  the  beach,  after  which 
we  filed  away  to  our  respective  abodes. 

Jasper  told  me  the  next  day,  that  on  returning  to  the  house,  they 

found  Captain  N ,  an  American,  whose  faculties  had  become 

somewhat  muddy,  stretched  out  at  full  length  on  the  veranda,  mak- 
ing abortive  attempts  to  whistle  "  Hail  Columbia,"  arid  roaring  at 
intervals  a  line  of  the  immortal  Dibdin  : — 

"  Here,  a  sheer-hulk,  lies  poor  Tom  Bowline." 

In  spite  of  his  remonstrances,  he  and  Merton  locked  arms  with  him  to 
assist  him  home ;  but  on  reaching  the  road,  they  found  it  was  either 
"  hard  starboard,"  or  "  hard  aport,"  as  their  charge  "  was  too  much  by 
the  head,"  and  otherwise  "  out  of  ballast  trim."  While  endeavoring  to 
make  a  short  cut  through  the  guava  and  lime  trees,  they  suddenly 
found  themselves  knee-deep  in  the  slough  that  adjoins  the  premises 
of  Teo.  Here  the  captain  floundered  terribly,  completely  bespat- 
tering them  with  mud  ;  but  after  extricating  him,  he  was  conveyed 
to  his  quarters  which  closed  the  adventures  of  the  night. 


A  Hasty  Departure.  279 


CHAPTER    XII. 

YACHTING    AMONG    THE    ISLES. 

HAVING  endured  an  indulgent  captivity  of  several  weeks  at 
Raiatea,  an  opportunity  was  afforded  for  bringing  it  to  a  close.  One 
afternoon  it  was  reported  that  three  sail  were  bearing  down  from 
Huahine  for  the  harbor,  and  we  were  all  on  the  qui  vive,  anticipating 
the  arrival  of  the  strangers.  They  proved  to  be  schooners,  one  a 
Californian  fruitier,  and  the  other  two  traders  from  Tahiti  for  the 
leeward  and  chain  islands. 

I  did  not  visit  either  of  them  that  evening,  but  in  the  morning  ac- 
companied Teo,  the  pilot,  in  his  boat  to  the  Falcon  as  she  was 
getting  under  way,  the  sails  being  set  and  the  crew  heaving  at  the 
anchor.  I  was  introduced  to  the  owner,  Mr.  Adams,  a  partner  of  the 
house  of  K.  G.  &  Co.,  at  Papeete,  who  informed  me  that  for  novelty's 
sake  he  had  fitted  up  the  Falcon  for  a  two-  months'  cruise  among  the 
Paumotu  and  Austral  Islands,  and  that  being  in  need  of  company, 
the  humble  accommodations  of  his  vessel  were  at  my  service  ;  he 
further  insisted  that  I  should  proceed  at  once  to  the  shore  and  return 
immediately  with  such  apparel  or  conveniences  as  I  might  require 
for  accompanying  him  on  his  contemplated  voyage.  The  time  was 
brief;  but  in  less  than  fifteen  minutes  my  preparations  were  com- 
pleted, and  leaving  Howard  as  proxy  for  adios  to  friends,  I  reached 
the  schooner  as  she  tripped  her  anchor  and  was  paying-off  before 
the  breeze. 

The  Falcon  was  on  her  way  to  Borabora,  an  island  adjoining 
Raiatea  ;  I  found  her  to  be  a  pretty  craft  of  about  ninety  tons  burden 
and  a  fast  sailer,  having  "  flush"  decks  and  good  accommodations 
below.  Our  pilot  preferred  taking  us  out  through  the  Hamenene 
passage,  though  the  route  was  more  circuitous  than  that  of  Tahaa  ; 
lest,  as  he  said,  we  should  get  becalmed  under  the  lee  of  that  island. 
The  morning  was  fine  and  the  breeze  steady  as  we  swept  before  it 
over  the  variegated  waters  of  the  broad  lagoon,  bounded  on  one  side 
by  the  ocean,  and  on  the  other  by  the  green  mountains  of  Raiatea. 


280  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

Adams,  a  Bostonian,  declared  that,  "  in  its  way,  he  had  seen 
nothing  more  beautiful,"  as  we  leaned  over  the  rail  watching  the 
varied  appearance  of  the  submarine  garden,  over  which  we  were 
gliding.  We  continued  in  this  manner  within  the  reef  for  eight 
miles,  when  we  reached  the  Hamenene  or  Hunter's  Passage,  oppo- 
site a  deep  bay,  known  as  "  Cook's  Bay,"  for  it  was  here  that  cele- 
brated navigator  first  anchored  on  his  visit  to  this  island. 

We  made  our  exit,  and  Teo  shook  hands  with  us,  directing  the 
captain  to  make  the  harbor  from  the  south  side  of  Borabora,  bearing 
about  northwest  of  us,  and  distant  twelve  miles  ;  but  for  reasons 
unknown,  we  sailed  around  the  northern  side,  thereby  increasing  our 
journey  five  miles.  We  saw  our  consort,  the  "  Dos  Amigos,"  who 
had  taken  the  Tahaa  passage,  almost  becalmed  under  the  lee  of  the 
island,  while  we  had  a  rattling  breeze,  and  when  off  the  northern 
point,  we  had  nearly  overtaken  her. 

This  is  one  of  the  third  class  islands  of  this  group,  its  greatest 
length  and  breadth  being  respectively  five,  and  two  and  three-fourths 
miles,  having  an  area  of  about  eight  square  miles.  It  is  surrounded 
by  a  reef  twenty-three  miles  in  circumference,  and  stretched  around 
its  outer  edge  is  a  chain  of  more  than  twelve  low  islets,  varying  in 
size  from  one-fourth  of  a  mile  to  three  miles  in  length.  Its  harbor 
is  unfortunately  situated  on  the  western  or  leeward  side  of  the  island, 
so  that  it  is  seldom  entered  with  a  leading  wind.  It  is  capacious, 
being  three  miles  in  length,  and  its  greatest  breadth  from  Waiati  Bay 
to  the  islet  of  Tubuai  (constituting  one  of  its  western  bounds)  is  a 
mile  and  a  half;  its  chief  inconvenience  is  its  great  depth  of  water 
opposite  the  settlement. 

The  island  lies  north  and  south,  its  extremities  curving  towards 
the  west,  and  the  curvatures  of  the  mountain  ridge  of  which  it  con- 
sists bear  a  strong  resemblance  to  a  figure  three  (3.)  From  its 
centre  rises  Mount  Pahia,  a  perpendicular  column  of  basalt,  to  a 
height  of  fifteen  hundred  feet,  and  frequently  enveloped  in  clouds. 
Viewed  from  the  west  or  northwest,  this  peak  has  a  fantastic  appear- 
ance, rising,  as  it  does,  like  a  huge  gray  castle,  with  its  turrets  and 
bastions,  above  the  sea  of  verdure  that  sweeps  in  gentle  undulations 
around  its  base.  I  have  visited  numerous  islands  in  this  ocean,  and 
with  reference  to  extent,  must  concede  to  Borabora  the  unrivalled 


A  South  Sea  Warrior.  281 

attractions  of  romantic  scenery  with  quiet  beauty.  Without  a  barren 
spot  to  pain  the  eye,  its  ridges  are  robed  from  summit  to  base  with 
a  mantle  of  luxuriant  verdure,  where  the  snowy  petals  of  the  Cape 
jessamine  nestle  amid  the  dark  foliage  of  the  forest,  and  with  its 
clear  rills  gushing  from  a  rocky  fountain,  (Mount  Pahia,)  and  wind- 
ing through  the  groves  of  its  quiet  dells,  it  might  rival  the  Hesperian 
Gardens  or  the  happy. valley  of  Rasselas.  As  if  to  protect  it  from 
the  boisterous  ocean,  a  coral  barrier  has  been  stretched  around  it,  its 
white  surface  besprinkled  with  the  links  of  an  emerald  cordon, 
covered  with  a  host  of  waving  palms,  whose  broad  plumes  glitter  in 
the  spray  of  foaming  breakers. 

This  little  spot  of  eight  square  miles  has  been  the  nursery  of  the 
most  daring  and  successful  warriors  the  group  ever  produced.  More 
than  forty  years  ago,  Tapoa,  its  king,  by  successful  wars,  united  the 
Society  Islands  into  one  confederacy ;  and  he  had  proceeded  to  Ta- 
hiti to  crown  his  victories  by  the  conquest  of  that  island,  when  death 
arrested  him  in  his  career.  He  was  cotemporaneous  with  Kame- 
hameha  I.,  and  in  some  respects  there  is  a  parallel  in  the  history  of 
these  two  Polynesian  champions,  though,  unlike  his  rival,  he  failed 
to  consolidate  a  kingdom  :  when  he  perished,  his  deeds  perished  with 
him.  From  the  largest  island  of  the  group  as  a  starting-point,  Kame- 
hameha  commenced  the  subjugation  of  the  smaller  islands  to  leeward, 
while  with  Tapoa  one  of  the  smallest  of  the  leeward  islands  served 
as  the  basis  of  his  operations,  and  his  victories  were  achieved  among 
the  larger  islands  to  windward.  Such  a  notoriety  did  this  conqueror 
obtain,  that  to  the  present  day  among  the  Hawaiians  a  native  of 
this  group  is  not  designated  a  Tahitian,  but  a  Boraborian.  Its  age 
of  heroism  has  passed.  In  1832  the  last  battle  of  conquest  was 
fought  at  Tahaa,  in  which  Tapoa,  a  grandson  of  the  renowned  chief-  ' 
tain,  sustained  a  signal  defeat.  Since  then  its  inhabitants  have 
remained  at  peace,  and  undisturbed  by  the  political  differences  of 
the  other  islands.  All  that  now  remains  of  a  once  numerous  popu- 
lation does  not  exceed  nine  hundred  souls. 

But  to  return  to  the  Falcon,  which  we  left  scudding  along  the 
northeastern  side  of  the  reef.  The  wind  was  fair,  and. continued  so 
until  we  rounded  the  northern  point,  when  we  were  compelled  to 
haul  aft  the  sheets  as  we  stood  to  the  southwest.  The  "  Dos  Amigos," 


282  Recf-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

from  the  south,  had  filled  away  on  the  larboard  tack  as  we  reached 
the  northern  side  of  the  passage ;  but  as  she  was  "  square-rigged" 
forward,  while  the  Falcon  was  a  "  fore-and-after,"  we  could  hug 
the  wind  closer,  and  the  moment  we  had  "  'bout  ship,"  we  found  to 
our  satisfaction  that  we  could  lay  more  than  a  point  higher  than  our 
rival.  The  length  and  breadth  of  the  entrance  are  about  a  half  and 
a  quarter  of  a  mile,  but  unfortunately  the  winds  that  sweep  down 
from  the  ridges  and  through  the  valleys  are  almost  always  baffling,  so 
that  beating  into  the  harbor  is  a  tedious  task.  With  a  fair  wind,  the 
anchorage  might  be  reached  in  half  an  hour.  Sometimes  in  making 
a  good  "  board,"  we  flattered  ourselves  that  we  would  "  letch  in"  on 
the  next  tack,  but  having  "  come  about,"  had  ijae  mortification  to 
find  that  we  were  heading  below  our  starting-point.  Beating  in  is 
sometimes  a  delicate  affair,  owing  to  the  narrowness  of  the  channel, 
(which  is  fortunately  deep  and  unobstructed,)  for  a  vessel  has  barely 
time  to  fill  away  on  one  tack  before  the  order  "  Stations  !"  is  given, 
almost  immediately  succeeded  by  "  Ready  about!"  for  the  next. 

The  Falcon  worked  admirably,  and  we  could  approach  within  ten 
yards  of  the  reef,  without  fear  of  "  missing  stays,"  for  the  moment 
the  helm  was  shoved  "  a-lee,"  she  rounded-to  as  gracefully  as  a 
swan,  and  without  losing  headway,  came  up  shivering  in  the  wind, 
and  immediately  fell  off  before  it  on  the  other  board.  After  we  had 
fairly  fought  our  way  into  the  harbor,  the  winds  still  continued  baffling, 
and  it  was  dark  before  the  pilot  succeeded  in  conveying  us  to  our 
anchorage,  which  our  consort  reached  soon  after.  The  Falcon 
mounted  two  brass  swivels  on  pivots  over  the  stern  ;  one  of  them  was 
heavily  loaded  and  fired  by  way  of  announcement ;  its  reverberations 
among  the  mountains  were  re-echoed  by  merry  shouts  from  dark 
groves,  which  in  the  obscurity  seemed  blended  with  the  still  water. 


Morning  in  Polynesia.  2S3 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

BORA  BORA . 

MORNING  dawned  brightly  behind  the  dark  pinnacles  of  Mount 
Pahia,  whose  sharp  outlines  stood  forth  in  bold  relief  against  the 
background  of  a  cloudless  sky.  Beyond  the  sweep  of  adjacent  hills, 
a  roseate  tint  was  mantling  the  pure  ether,  while  in  the  foreground  a 
subdued  light  lingered  upon  the  landscape,  reposing  in  the  shadow 
of  the  Titan  rock.  Suddenly  the  steep  ridges  of  the  distant  islet, 
Tubuai,  brightened  as  the  sunbeams  flashed  across  the  hills  of 
Waiati,  creeping  downward  to  paint  in  glowing  colors  the  orange  and 
palm  groves  that  border  the  still  lagoon. 

It  was  one  of  those  bright,  unclouded  mornings  that,  wherever  en- 
joyed, has  a  powerful  influence  in  dissipating  the  vapid  reveries  of 
despondency,  inspiring  and  invigorating  by  its  freshness  and  purity. 
The  very  huts  that  nestled  beneath  the  spreading  boughs  of  the 
bread-fruit  peeped  smilingly  from  their  leafy  canopies,  and  the 
happy  voices  of  children,  sporting  amid  ripples  upon  the  sand-beach, 
were  boisterous  chords  in  nature's  harmony. 

Presently,  a  breath  of  vapor,  like  a  faint  wreath  of  smoke,  curled 
around  the  castle  rock,  whose  turrets  and  bastions  were  flecked  with 
the  mantling  evergreen.  From  invisible  sources,  light  clouds  were 
mustering  ;  seemingly,  they  crept  from  hidden  recesses  in  the  dark 
cliff  to  float  in  the  pure  atmosphere,  and  commingling,  to  veil  the 
mountain  summit  with  a  misty  coronet.  Then  a  sparkling  shower 
fell  upon  the  groves  that  clustered  around  the  base,  while  beyond, 
the  distant  hills  and  islets  were  basking  in  the  sunlight. 

These  morning  showers  are  peculiar  to  Borabora  ;  but  they  are  of 
brief  duration,  and  are  nature's  choicest  regalia  with  which  to  deck 
her  emerald  robes  ;  for,  when  the  rain-cloud  has  melted,  the  sun- 
beams flash  upon  a  sea  of  liquid  diamonds. 

An  hour  passed  on,  and  a  light  breeze  crept  down  from  the  steep 
ridges  ;  it  seemed  as  fickle  as  were  fantastic  the  peaks  with  which 
it  sported.  As  if  ^Eolus  and  his  mythic  sprites  were  revelling  amid 


284  Reef -Roving  s  in  the  South  Seas. 

the  labyrinths  of  the  stern  old  rock,  it  scattered  the  already  melting 
vapors,  and  received  the  obeisance  of  a  host  of  nodding  plumes  and 
tossing  branches.  Gaudy  robes  fluttered  upon  the  sand-beach, 
where  loiterers  were  indulging  a  morning  stroll,  and  two  or  three 
canoes  with  snowy  sails  glided  from  the  dark  headlands  of  Fanui 
and  came  sweeping  toward  us.  Ripples  were  already  dancing  upon 
the  broad  surface,  and  when  we  encountered  the  puff,  the  Falcon 
swung  gracefully  at  her  anchor,  while  the  awning  flapped  and  the 
cordage  sang.  Signal-halliards  were  rove,  and  our  colors,  loosely 
folded,  bent  on  ;  having  run  them  up  to  the  main  peak,  we  jerked  the 
cord,  and  that  type  of  liberty,  the  star-spangled  banner,  sprang  forth 
anew,  and  waved  a  joyful  welcome  to  the  morning  breeze. 

After  a.  substantial  breakfast,  w,e  landed  in  the  forenoon  on  the 
stone  jetty  in  front,  of  the  native  church,  where  Mr.  Evans,  both 
trading  master  of-  the  Dos  Amigos  and  merchant  in  Tahiti,  was 
waiting  to  receive  us.  We  were  conducted  by  him  to  the  house  of 
Mateha,  who  acted  as  regent  during  the  absence  of  King  Tapoa,  then 
in  Tahiti.  He  was  a  man  about  forty-five  or  .fifty  years  of  age,  with 
an  intelligent  countenance,  and,  as  far  as  I  could  learn,  bore  an  ex- 
emplary character;  like  all  natives  of  this  group,  whether  patrician 
or  plebeian,  he  was  innocent  of  pretensions  to  dignity,  either  in  his 
intercourse  with  inferiors,  or  in  the  Aspect  of  his  household. 

Having  paid  our  respects,  we  walked  out  upon  the  grass-plot  in 
front  of  the  house,  a  sort  of  public  square  ;  this  was  ornamented  by 
the  only  public  edifices  of  the  kingdom,  a  school-house,  church,  and 
court-house,  specimens  of  architecture  similar  to  those  of  Raiatea. 
Near  the  shore  were  some  half  dozen  carronades,  mounted  upon 
worm-eaten  carriages  ;  some  of  them  had  evidently  performed  their 
last  offices,  and  like  old  pensioners,  were  now  reposing  on  their 
laurels.  Around  their  wheels  the  grass  was  creeping  luxuriantly, 
while  above  them  was  a  canopy  of  shady  boughs.  Evans  desired 
us  to  accompany  him  to  an  adjoining  yard,  to  look  at  a  mam- 
moth specimen  of  bread-fruit  he  had  discovered.  The  tree  was 
small,  but  the  fruit  suspended  from  its  branches  would  have  de- 
lighted the  heart  of  a  horticulturist,  for  it  exceeded  in  size  any- 
thing of  the  kind  I  ever  beheld ;  each  slender  branch  arched  grace- 
fully, as  from  its  extremity  a  beautiful  oval  pendant  swayed  to  and 


X     < 

s?  a: 


An  Island- Gar  den.  285 


fro  in  the  breeze  like  an  emerald  jewel,  beneath  a  crown  of  glossy 
sinuated  leaves. 

The  bread-fruit  tree,  or  Hawaiian  ulu,  Tahitian  maiole,  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  specimens  of  vegetation  in  the  South  Sea  Islands. 
Its  height  seldom  exceeds  fifty  feet,  and  the  average  height  of  those 
on  this  island  is  perhaps  thirty  feet.  Its  symmetrical  form  and  dark 
glossy  foliage,  with  the  light-green  fruit  suspended  among  its 
branches  in  beautiful  contrast,  render  it  an  object  of  universal  at- 
traction ;  to  its  grace  and  elegance  are  united  strength  and  utility, 
for  its  trunk  furnishes  beautiful  and  durable  timber  of  a  dark  color 
resefabling  mahogany.  Among  some  of  the  islands  of  this  ocean, 
the  natives  fashion  their  garments  from  the  inner  bark  of  its  branches, 
while  its  trunk  is  converted  into  canoes  and  other  purposes.  The 
fruit,  which  is  about  five  or  six  inches  in  diameter,  is  never  eaten  in 
its  natural  state,  but  is  roasted,  and  when  broken  open,  exhibits  a 
core  in  the  centre  ;  the  food  itself  is  of  a  delicate  straw  color,  agree- 
able to  the  taste,  and  exceedingly  nutritious.  Of  this  tree  there  are 
many  varieties,  and  as  they  produce  two  crops  annually,  the  natives 
are  provided  to  a  certain  extent  with  this  description  of  sustenance 
throughout  the  year.  I  have  frequently  noticed  among  the  islands 
the  habit  of  inclosing  the  young  trees  with  stakes,  to  protect  them 
from  the  ravages  of  quadrupeds,  especially  horses,  which  are  fond  of 
feeding  upon  the  leaves  and  tender  shoots.  These  trees  require  a  cer- 
tain degree  of  attention  ;  while  the  orange  suffers  no  diminution  in  its 
golden  harvest,  when  surrounded  by  the  tangled  guava,  the  bread- 
fruit similarly  situated,  like  a  deciduous  plant,  would  shed  its  leafy 
covering,  and  stretch  out  its  naked  branches,  as  if  upbraiding  man  for 
his  neglect,  craving  only  the  removal  of  the  parasites  that  deprive  it 
of  the  moisture  which  lends  vigor,  to  renew  again  the  blessings  for 
which  it  was  bestowed. 

The  settlement  is  situate  on  the  western  side  of  the  island,  having 
a  level  site  bounded  in  the  rear  by  Mount  Pahia,  that  rises  perpen- 
dicularly above  it.  Here,  in  a  narrow  compass,  we  have  beauty  and 
majesty  in  their  extremes,  for  the  breadth  of  the  level  land  between 
shore  and  mountain  does  not  exceed  half  a  mile,  and  above  a  luxu- 
riant garden  of  bread-fruit,  cocoanut,  orange,  lime,  papaw,  (Canca 
papaya,}  banana,  and  a  variety  of  other  trees  and  flowering  shrubs, 


286  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

towers  the  dark-gray  rock,  frowning  upon  the  waves  of  verdure  that 
encircle  its  base  in  gentle  undulations.  Viewed  from  the  northern 
portion  of  the  settlement,  this  mountain  assumes  a  different  aspect : 
instead  of  a  perpendicular  wall,  it  descends  at  a  steep  angle,  broken 
by  four  or  five  petrified  terraces,  the  gray  rock  partially  exposed  or 
covered  with  vegetation.  In  the  morning,  light  showers  are  of  fre- 
quent occurrence,  cooling  the  atmosphere,  and  imparting  a  freshness 
and  purity  to  this  tropical  garden,  the  abode  of  perpetual  spring. 
Beyond  the  still  waters  of  the  bay  reposes  the  beautiful  islet 
Tubuai,  encircled  by  a  fringe  of  palms,  while  on  the  right  and  left 
stretches  the  coral  barrier,  over  which  the  waves  roll  incessantly  in 
sheets  of  foam.  The  streams  on  this  island  are  small,  but  pure  and 
cool,  and  to  one  of  these,  in  the  rear  of  the  town,  I  accompanied 
Evans  to  enjoy  a  bath,  a  luxury  we  indulged  in  every  morning  dur- 
ing our  sojourn. 

Following  the  footpath  that  led  to  the  mountain,  we  crossed  a 
sparkling  stream  in  the  rear  of  the  village,  spanned  by  a  bridge  of 
cocoanut  logs,  and  tracing  the  bank  beneath  the  shade  of  fruit-trees, 
we  presently  entered  the  forest  from  which  it  issued  by  a  narrow 
dell.  Down  a  gentle  declivity  it  was  gurgling  and  foaming  in  minia- 
ture cascades,  sporting  with  the  nodding  boughs  and  plants  that 
drooped  in  its  clear  waters.  We  had  not  proceeded  far  before  the 
woodland  solitudes  re-echoed  a  merrier  sound,  and  ascending  a  slight 
eminence  by  the  stony  pathway,  we  saw  some  half  dozen  girls  sport- 
ing in  a  clear  basin,  plashing  the  water  in  each  other's  faces.  They 
caught  sight  of  us  at  the  same  moment,  and  some  of  them  shouting, 
"Papad  !  papad .'"  (strangers,  strangers,)  all  hastened  to  gather  their 
garments,  and  with  streaming  tresses  they  skipped  from  rock  to  rock 
as  lightly  as  wood-nymphs,  and  disappeared  among  the  guavas. 

Evans  called  after  them,  "  Tehea  ton  hamd?"  (what  are  you  ashamed 
of?)  but  the  only  reply  was  the  faint  echo  of  a  laugh,  and  we  saw 
no  more  of  them. 

Few  foreigners  reside  on  this  island,  and  the  only  resident  mis- 
sionaries are  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Krause.  The  contrast  between  the 
social  condition  of  the  natives  of  Borabora  and  those  of  Raiatea  was 
striking  ;  without  a  breath  of  discord  to  disturb  their  domestic  peace, 
everything  wore  an  aspect  of  tranquillity  and  contentment.  At  the 


The  Home  of  a  Missionary.  287 

school-house,  we  heard  the  pleasant  voices  of  the  children  pursuing 
their  studies,  and  after  their  dismissal,  saw  the  juveniles  playing  upon 
the  green-sward,  and  the  pleasing  countenances  of  the  elder  pupils, 
as  they  passed  by,  books  in  hand,  and  wishing  us  "  iaurdna"  Dur- 
ing the  afternoon,  by  invitation,  we  visited  Mr.  Krause.  His  prem- 
ises consist  of  a  park  bounded  in  the  rear  by  a  garden,  in  which  his 
residence  is  situated.  We  entered  the  former,  an  area  of  between 
two  and  three  acres,  covered  with  a  magnificent  carpet  of  grass,  free 
from  underwood  ;  through  its  centre  was  an  avenue  shaded  by  orange- 
trees,  and  scattered  around  were  noble  specimens  of  the  bread-fruit, 
cocoanut,  and  banana.  We  also  noticed  that  beautiful  shrub,  the  rose- 
tree,  with  its  delicate  pink  flowers,  together  with  that  unique  gem  of 
vegetation,  the  papaya.  This  tree,  a  native  of  the  tropics,  has  a  soft, 
herbaceous  trunk,  usually  straight  and  naked,  rising  to  a  height  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet.  On  the  top  is  a  crown  of  sinuated  leaves, 
having  long  footstalks,  and  between  and  beneath  these  grow  the 
flowers  and  fruit,  the  latter  about  the  size  of  a  small  melon,  which  it 
resembles,  and  when  ripe  is  of  a  rich  yellow  color,  having  a  delicious 
flavor.  It  is  seen  adhering  in  clusters  around  the  upper  part' 
of  the  stem.  After  strolling  leisurely  through  the  park,  we  entered 
the  garden,  elegantly  ornamented  with  shrubs  and  flowers,  both 
native  and  exotic  ;  among  which  we  noticed  the  ginger  plant,  Chinese 
pomegranate,  also  roses  and  geraniums,  bordering  the  path,  or  fring- 
ing the  green  embankment  in  front  of  the  house. 

From  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Krause  we  received  a  friendly  welcome.  By 
his  accent,  I  at  once  recognized  him  to  be  a  German ;  Mrs.  K.  was 
a  native  of  England.  Mr.  K.  had  been  educated  as  a  physician  in 
Berlin,  but  subsequently  accepted  the  position  of  chaplain  to  an 
English  company  established  in  Guatemala.  The  projects  of  this 
enterprise  being  afterwards  abandoned,  he  visited  these  islands,  and 
for  nearly  twelve  years  had  been  a  resident,  finally  becoming  a  mem- 
ber of  the  London  Missionary  Society.  When  Mr.  Krause  informed 
us  that  the  smiling  evidences  of  industry  everywhere  apparent 
were  the  result  of  his  personal  labors,  our  credulity  was  severely 
taxed.  He  apologized  for  what  he  termed  the  partial  neglect  of  the 
premises,  as  they  were  too  extensive  for  his  own  unaided  efforts. 
We  accompanied  him  to  the  garden  in  the  rear  of  the  house,  where 


288  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

were  various  culinary  herbs  growing,  and  several  rows  of  cabbages 
evidenced  a  national  propensity.  On  an  eminence  was  a  small  oc- 
tagonal building — a  conspicuous  object  from  the  harbor.  It  is  neatly 
plastered  and  whitewashed,  having  an  observatory.  This  is  but  one 
of  the  many  evidences  of  his  mechanical  ingenuity ;  it  was  erected 
for  a  school-house,  where,  during  the  evening,  he  has  a  class  of  a 
dozen  young  men,  whose  acquirements  are  above  the  elementary 
branches,  and  whom  he  instructs  in  geography  and  history.  The 
view  from  the  cupola  is  enchanting ;  the  blossoming  groves  beneath, 
and  the  broad  harbor,  bounded  by  its  islets  and  reefs,  are  spread  out 
like  a  beautiful  panorama. 

The  house  of  Mr.  K.  is  encircled  by  a  verandah,  at  one  ex- 
tremity of  which  he  has  a  small  apartment  for  a  fine  collection 
of  rabbits.  These  innocent  creatures  may  be  seen  at  any  time 
skipping  over  the  lawn  or  among  the  flowers  ;  and  while  watching 
their  gambols,  it  occurred  to  me  that,  could  the  author  'of 

"  O  for  a  lodge  in  some  vast  wilderness  ! — 
Some  boundless  contiguity  of  shade  !" 

have  dwelt  in  Borabora,  in  its  present  condition,  he  might  have  favored 
us  with  a  more  detailed  account  of  the  domestic  habits  of  "  Pussy," 
and  amid  quiet  groves  realized  some  of  his  poetic  conceptions. 

After  partaking  of  the  refreshment  prepared  for  us  by  Mrs.  Krause, 
we  took  our  departure  ;  and  the  conviction  intruded  itself  that,  had 
other  laborers  in  this  group  condescended  to  manifest  equal  zeal  for 
the  temporal  advancement  as  well  as  spiritual  welfare  of  their  con- 
verts, encouraging  industry  by  personal  example,  a  different  result 
would  be  witnessed  among  the  natives.  Yet  Mr.  Krause  has  not 
passed  unscathed  by  the  breath  of  calumny,  and  it  might  be  added, 
neither  has  any  other  missionary  residing  in  the  group.  Hardly  a 
traveller  can  visit  the  South  Sea  Islands,  and  mingle  with  all  classes 
of  society,  without  being  doomed  to  the  recital  of  lengthy  state- 
ments of  nutshell  importance,  and  wire-drawn  disquisitions  on  the 
immorality  and  avarice  of  missionaries,  besides  a  formal  list  of  the 
concomitants  of  hypocrisy  and  intrigue  ;  nearly  all  of  which,  when 
thrown  into  a  proper  receptacle  and  well  shaken,  disappear  like 
chaff  before  the  breath  of  truth. 


Personal  Appearance  of  a  Native  Chief.  289 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

TUBUAI  AND  ITS  COCOANUT  GROVES— INCIDENTS  ABOARD. 

DURING  our  sojourn  at  Borabora,  Evans  and  I  slept  ashore,  at  the 
house  of  Mateha.  We  were  provided  with  musquito-nets  and  clean 
bedding.  One  evening,  owing  to  the  heat,  I  left  the  house  and  took 
up  my  quarters  in  a  large  canoe  that  for  years  had  been  reposing  be- 
neath its  shed.  But  I  had  reason  to  repent  of  it,  for  the  premises 
were  infested  by  hordes  of  musquitoes  ;  besides,  by  lying  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  canoe,  enveloped  in  the  net,  I  effectually  prevented  a  free 
circulation  of  air. 

At  this  place  resides  Tafaaura,  a  high  chief,  and,  excepting  Po- 
maretane,  the_  consort  of  the  queen  at  Tahiti,  he  is  the  handsomest 
and  best-proportioned  native  I  have  seen  among  the  islands.  He 
is  powerfully  and  symmetrically  formed,  yet  his  countenance  lacks 
the  dignity  of  expression  observable  among  some  of  the  Hawaiian 
nobles.  With  all  his  attractions,  he  proved  recreant  to  his  country 
in  the  hour  of  need,  for,  during  the  French  war,  he  attached  himself 
to  the  invaders,  from  whom  he  received  testimonials  of  their  esteem  ; 
and  I  noticed  suspended  in  his  house  the  French  sword  and  belt 
worn  by  him  on  that  occasion.  Recently,  he  attempted  to  revolution- 
ize the  island,  during  the  absence  of  King  Tapoa  at  Tahiti,  but  this 
was  promptly  checked  by  the  interference  of  Mr.  Krause.  A  fine- 
looking  young  man,  I  think  his  son,  who  resides  with  him,  I  hired 
to  carry  me  in  his  canoe  to  the  little  island  of  Tubuai  opposite. 
Having  embarked,  we  had  hardly  left  the  shore  before  a  sudden  flaw 
of  wind  struck  the  sail  with  such  violence  as  to  throw  the  canoe 
on  its  side,  breaking  one  of  the  sticks  of  the  outrigger,  and  swamp- 
ing it.  The  man  instantly  jumped  overboard,  while  I  remained  in 
the  canoe,  which,  though  beneath  the  surface  of  the  water,  was  suf- 
ficiently buoyant  to  support  me.  By  his  swimming  and  my  paddling 
we  reached  the  shore,  where  it  was  speedily  repaired.  After 
procuring  dry  garments  we  again  embarked,  and  this  time  with  bet- 
ter success,  for  after  a  pleasant  sail  of  a  mile  we  reached  our  desti- 
nation, and  hauled  the  canoe  upon  the  beach. 

19 


290  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

This  island,  including  the  islet  Tubuai-iti  (little  Tubuai)  imme- 
diately adjoining,  is  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length  and  three-eighths 
of  a  mile  in  breadth,  having  a  ridge  of  high  hills  traversing  its  entire 
length.  The  land  between  these  hills  and  the  shore  is  low,  and 
covered  with  a  forest  of  cocoanut  and  occasionally  other  fruit  trees  ; 
the  hills  in  some  places  are  scantily  clothed  with  trees  and  bushes. 
It  was  untenanted,  unless  by  swarms  of  musquitoes.  Mr.  Krause 
informed  me  that  a  single  deer  roamed  wild  upon  the  island,  its  mate 
having  died.  Both  were  brought  from  South  America. 

Before  strolling  through  this  solitary  forest  of  palms,  my  attend- 
ant ascended  a  tree  and  threw  down  three  or  four  young  cocoanuts, 
by  way  of  refreshing  ourselves  with  their  cooling  beverage  ;  after 
which  he  looked  about  upon  the  ground,  and  picked  up  an  old 
nut  that  had  fallen  from  the  tree,  and  from  which  a  bright-green 
sprout  had  protruded  itself  through  the  coarse,  dry  husk  in  two  beau- 
tiful shoots.  This  he  divested  of  its  tough  covering  and  broke  open. 
The  centre  was  completely  filled  with  a  concrete  substance,  yellow- 
ish externally,  owing  to  the  natural  oil  of  the  kernel  that  exudes 
when  old;  but,  upon  being  penetrated,  it  was  white  and  spongy, 
having  a  sweet,  agreeable  taste  ;  it  is  called  by  the  natives  utu. 
In  this  way  many  of  these  forests  are  propagated.  The  ripe  fruit 
falls  from  the  tree  among  the  loose  decomposing  vegetation  around 
it,  and,  whether  covered  or  not,  in  a  short  time  two  shoots  burst 
from  it,  one  finding  its  way  into  the  earth,  while  the  other  curves 
upwards,  and  in  a  few  years  ranks  with  the  other  trees  of  the  forest. 
Like  the  date  or  other  varieties  of  palm,  it  is  endogenous,  and  its 
coarse  gray  trunk  may  be  hacked  and  mutilated  with  impunity,  for 
its  stem  increases  by  internal  growth,  deriving  nourishment  from* 
the  bud  that  grows  in  the  centre  of  its  leafy  crown.  If  this  be 
destroyed,  its  broad  plumes  wither  and  fall. 

On  all  these  trees  the  nuts  were  hanging  in  clusters,  while  the 
ground  was  strewed  with  them  in  every  stage  of  decomposition.  At 
a  low  estimate,  this  island  and  that  adjoining  contain  perhaps  five 
thousand  of  these  trees,  and  which,  allowing  for  domestic  consump- 
tion, should  yield  upwards  of  ten  thousand  gallons  of  oil  annually,  hav- 
ing a  gross  value  of  $2,500.  It  is  a  staple  commodity,  and  is  always 
in  demand  ;  but  this  source  of  wealth  to  the  natives  is  suffered  to  pass 


Thoughts  upon  Cocoanuts.  291 

unheeded.  This  is  but  one  of  the  islets.  From  this  branch  of  com- 
merce alone,  upwards  of  twenty  thousand  dollars  might  be  derived 
annually  ;  but  the  income  from  this  South  Sea  staple  will  probably 
never  be  increased  by  the  present  race.  Traders  among  the  islands 
have  offered  the  natives  every  inducement  to  manufacture  oil,  by  ad- 
vancing merchandise  on  credit,  but  they  have  failed  to  create  new 
wants  for  them  ;  and  so  long  as  the  few  they  possess  are  supplied  by 
the  spontaneous  products  of  the  soil,  they  prefer  poverty  and  sloth  to 
industry  and  wealth.  The  value  of  this  article  exported  annually 
from  Borabora  amounts  to  only  a  few  hundred  dollars.  The  process 
of  its  manufacture  is  very  simple.  A  pile  of  old  nuts  having  been 
procured,  they  are  deprived  of  their  husks  and  broken  in  the  middle. 
The  native  sits  astride  of  a  rude  bench,  at  one  end  of  which  is  affixed 
an  iron — usually  an  old  plane-iron,  ground  down  to  an  oval  and 
armed  with  teeth  like  a  saw.  He  then  takes  one'  of  these  pieces, 
and  with  both  hands  grates  it  over  the  iron,  when  the  kernel  falls 
in  light  particles  into  a  trough  placed  beneath  for  its  reception. 
This  process  is  continued  until  the  trough  is  half  filled,  when  it  is 
placed  on  forked  sticks  about  four  feet  from  the  ground,  to  rot  in  the 
sun.  This  requires  but  few  days  ;  and  after  the  oil  has  exuded,  the 
residue  is  subjected  to  pressure  to  remove  any  yet  remaining,  and 
then  thrown  away.  During  the  rotting  process  the  odor  arising  from 
it  is  extremely  offensive.  At  the  Hapai  Islands,  a  Swedish  company 
have  a  steam-mill  in  operation  for  the  manufacture  of  this  commodity. 
We  continued  our  walk  along  an  almost  obliterated  path,  through 
the  seemingly  interminable  forest  ;  on  the  left  was  the  rippled  sur-. 
face  of  the  bay,  and  on  our  right,  beyond  the  belt  of  cocoanut-trees, 
a  heavy  growth  of  forest  and  bushes,  so  that  I  abandoned  my  inten- 
tion of  ascending  the  hills.  Two  or  three  rills  crossed  our  path,  and 
after  travelling  about  a  fourth  of  a  mile,  we  came  upon  the  ruins  of  a 
house  and  a  huge  oven,  situated  in  an  open  space  near  the  water, 
from  which  many  of  the  trees  had  been  cut  down  or  destroyed. 
This  place,  my  guide  informed  me,  was  the  spot  selected  by  the 
French  during  the  war  for  a  detachment  of  their  troops,  sent  down 
to  attack  Borabora,  and  the  oven  had  been  constructed  by  them  for 
domestic  uses.  We  continued  on  until  we  reached  the  southern- 
most point  of  the  island,  and  here  our  progress  was  checked  by  huge 


292  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

boulders  that  covered  the  precipitous  ridge  rising  from  the  water, 
also  by  the  dense  growth  of  trees  and  underwood,  so  that  I  was  reluct- 
antly compelled  to  forego  the  pleasure  of  walking  around  the  island. 
A  narrow  channel,  about  four  feet  in  depth,  separated  us  from 
Tubuai-iti.  The  water  was  flowing  slowly  out  from  the  harbor,  over 
a  bed  of  white  coral ;  and  although  the  open  grove  on  the  opposite 
shore  looked  inviting,  we  did  not  cross  over. 

After  retracing  our  steps,  we  gathered  a  quantity  of  young  cocoa- 
nuts  and  oranges,  and  started  for  the  Falcon,  which  I  reached  in  time 
to  witness  a  sad  accident.  While  sitting  beneath  the  awning,  upon 
the  quarter-deck,  and  conversing  with  the  captain,  one  of  the  seamen 
aloft  called  out,  "  Stand  from  under !"  and  almost  immediately  a 
ponderous  iron-bound  block  bounded  upon  the  deck,  striking  in  its 
fall  a  native  boy,  fourteen  years  of  age,  who  was  splitting  wood  near 
the  galley.  Knocking  him  senseless,  it  inflicted  a  ghastly  wound 
on  the  back  of  his  head,  by  cutting  through  the  scalp  to  the  bone. 
When  we  reached  him,  he  was  lying  in  a  pool  of  blood.  I  dashed 
a  basin  of  water  in  his  face,  which  revived  him  ;  the  bleeding  was 
checked  by  cold  water  and  pressure.  The  wound  was  dressed 
in  the  usual  manner,  by  shaving  the  scalp  in  its  immediate  vicinity, 
stitching  it  together,  and  applying  adhesive  plaster.  He  was  then 
removed  to  the  quarter-deck,  where  he  passed  the  night  in  great 
distress,  a  fever  having  ensued,  attended  with  frequent  vomiting  of 
blood.  His  parents  watched  with  him  during  the  night,  removing 
him  in  the  morning  to  the  shore  in  a  canoe.  At  the  time,  I  had 
my  doubts  as  to  his  recovery,  but  on  a  subsequent  visit,  I  found  him 
as  hearty  as  ever.  Previous  to  the  accident,  our  decks  had  swarmed 
with  natives,  but  after  its  occurrence  we  had  no  further  trouble  with 
them. 

A  few  mornings  subsequent  to  this  event,  a  circumstance  occurred 
that  completely  destroyed  my  relish  for  fresh  fish.  The  table  d'hote 
of  the  Falcon  was  unexceptionable,  for  we  had  an  excellent  cook, 
and  our  pork,  poultry,  and  pastry  were  served  without  stint.  If  I  hap- 
pened to  be  on  shore  at  dinner-time,  the  swivel  was  loaded  and  fired 
by  way  of  intimation,  and  a  boat  sent  off.  On  the  morning  in  ques- 
tion, one  of  our  dishes  consisted  of  fried  fish  of  delicious  flavor,  so 
that  Mr.  Taylor,  the  first  officer,  and  I  partook  largely  of  it,  while 


Antidote  for  Poisoning.  293 

Adams  contented  himself  with  a  broiled  fowl.  Breakfast  finished, 
we  lighted  our  cheroots  and  seated  ourselves  upon  deck.  I  soon  felt 
an  intense  heat  in  my  head,  while  my  face  was  burning  hot.  I  threw 
my  cigar  overboard  and  examined  my  pulse,  which  beating  violently, 
I  remarked  to  Adams  that  I  had  a  sudden  attack  of  fever,  and 
should  be  compelled  to  retire.  At  this  moment  Taylor  sprang  up, 
with  both  hands  clasped  to  his  head,  exclaiming  that  he  was  poisoned. 
His  features  were  perfectly  livid,  arid  I  felt  alarmed.  Approaching 
me,  he  said,  "  You  are  poisoned,  too  ;  look  at  his  face,  Adams." 
"  Gracious  !  both  of  you  are"  was  the  reply,  "  and  you  had  better  do 
something  for  yourselves  as  quickly  as  possible."  Taylor  said  he 
should  take  an  emetic,  which  I  knew  was  the  proper  remedy ; 
but  at  that  moment  I  had  a  particular  aversion  for  tartarized  anti- 
mony, arid  jumping  into  a  canoe,  was  paddled  ashore,  to  place  myself 
under  the  treatment  of  Mateha.  The  old  women  immediately  held 
a  hasty  consultation,  and  the  result  was,  that  I  was  condemned  to  eat 
an  indefinite  number  of  lemons,  seasoned  with  salt.  I  remonstrated, 
but  they  insisted,  and  to  make  sure,  they  proposed  to  lay  me  on  my 
back  and  squeeze  the  juice  into  my  mouth  while  I  swallowed  it.  I 
negatived  at  once  such  infantine  proceedings,  and  sat  down  to  the 
bitter  antidote. 

For  three  days  I  experienced  the  effects  of  the  poisoning,  while 
Taylor,  who  took  the  emetic,  reported  himself  in  statu  quo  on  the 
following  morning.  What  made  the  circumstance  remarkable  was, 
that  many  of  the  natives  partook  of  the  same  description  of  fish,  (all 
of  which  were  taken  the  evening  previous,)  and  none  of  them  com- 
plained of  unfavorable  symptoms. 


CHAPTER    XV. 

TAHITI. 

OCCURRENCES  at  this  island  induced  Mr.  Adams  to  revisit  Tahiti 
before  consummating  his  proposed  voyage,  and  the  third  morning 
after  leaving  Borabora,  the  lofty  peak  of  Urohena  loomed  before  us, 


294  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

while  the  mural  spires  of  Moorea  were  on  our  left.  We  beat  up 
through  the  channel  between  the  two  islands,  and  by  noon  were 
"hauled  aback"  abreast  of  the  town,  Papeete. 

As  it  was  not  the  owner's  intention  to  remain  above  an  hour  in 
this  place,  the  officer  in  charge  was  requested  "  to  lay  off  and  on," 
while  we  landed  in  a  boat  which  was  immediately  lowered.  The 
appearance  of  this  island  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles  is  anything 
but  flattering  to  the  glowing  descriptions  which  travellers  have  con- 
curred in  giving,  and  the  praise  lavished  upon  it  without  stint  has 
been  overwrought.  It  is  not  decked  in  a  robe  of  universal  beauty 
to  be  comprehended  at  a  superficial  glance  ;  its  attractions  consist  of 
a  combination  of  pleasing  scenes,  blended  or  interwoven  with  each 
other  by  sprinklings  of  the  ideal.  These  are  only  to  be  found  amid 
its  groves,  valleys,  and  within  its  amphitheatre  of  mountain  peaks, 
for,  viewed  at  a  distance,  Tahiti  has  nothing  to  distinguish  her  from 
sister  isles  in  this  ocean ;  indeed,  I  have  seen  others  more  inviting. 

The  trade-winds  were  blowing  strongly  from  the  southeast  as  we 
pulled  off  from  the  Falcon,  making  the  sea  unpleasantly  rough.  The 
mountains  before  us  were  in  many  places  sterile,  though  their  valleys 
and  summits  were  densely  wooded.  Around  the  mountain's  base 
was  a  belt  of  verdure,  and  these  groves,  scattered  upon  the  level 
land  between  the  mountain-spurs  and  the  sea-shore,  are  the  boast  of 
Tahiti.  The  entrance  to  the  harbor  through  the  reef  is  narrow, 
and  as  we  approached  it,  there  was  a  strong  current  setting  to  lee- 
ward upon  the  reef,  and  on  both  sides  the  sea  was  breaking  violently. 
Having  pulled  through  into  still  water,  the  town  was  before  us, 
stretching  around  the  bay  in  a  semicircle.  Owing  to  the  level  na- 
ture of  the  land  on  which  it  is  built,  only  the  front  row  of  white 
houses  is  seen,  bounded  in  the  rear  by  a  dark  grove.  Directly 
abreast  of  the  passage,  and  commanding  it,  is  Fort  Uranie,  where 
troops  are  always  stationed. 

We  landed  nearly  in  front  of  the  house  of  Dr.  Johnstone,  where, 
in  a  shady  verandah,  the  doctor,  Wm.  H.  Kelly,  Esq.,  U.  S.  Consul, 
and  an  American  gentleman  were  sitting,  and  after  paying  our  re- 
spects to  them,  we  walked  up  to  Adams's  residence  on  the  Broom 
Road. 

In  approaching  the  town  from  the  sea,  its  most  conspicuous  ob- 


Town  of  Papeete  Described.  295 

jects  are  French  improvements ;  these  consist  of  government- 
house,  barracks,  arsenal,  workshops,  and  neat  stone  jetties,  with 
hydrants  for  watering  ships,  also  lamp-posts  placed  at  regular  inter- 
vals around  the  semicircle  of  the  bay.  To  give  a  general  idea  of 
the  town  and  harbor  of  Papeete,  let  the  reader  imagine  a  sheet 
of  water  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length  and  half  a  mile  in  breadth, 
bounded  on  one  side  by  a  reef  of  coral,  and  on  the  other  by  a  semi- 
circular shore  a  mile  and  three-quarters  in  extent,  from  Point 
Fareute  on  the  east,  to  Point  Hotuanea  on  the  west.  This  level 
strip  of  land  has  an  average  breadth  of  half  a  mile  from  the  shore 
to  the  mountain-spurs,  although  valleys  extend  from  it  towards  the 
mountains  to  a  much  greater  distance,  and  is  covered  with  a  con- 
tinuous grove  of  majestic  trees,  chiefly  lofty  bread-fruit,  orange,  and 
banana.  Beneath  this  grove,  which  is  watered  by  six  or  eight  small 
streams,  are  scattered  the  habitations  of  between  two  and  three 
thousand  persons,  native  and  foreign.  The  buildings  along  the  shore, 
bordering  an  excellent  road,  are  chiefly  wooden  ;  two  or  three  are 
occupied  as  foreign  consulates,  and  the  remainder  are  stores  and 
restaurants  ;  the  public  buildings  of  the  French  are  usually  two 
stories,  and  of  stone.  About  one  hundred  yards  from  the  shore 
runs  the  original  Broom  Road,  which  encircles  the  island  ;  this,  in 
the  town,  is  perhaps  twelve  yards  broad,  and  is  intersected  frequently 
by  others  of  lesser  breadth.  The  lofty  trees  on  either  side  of  this 
road  frequently  form  a  canopy  over  it,  so  that  it  resembles  a  shady 
avenue,  and  in  several  places  along  its  border,  from  the  lion  mouths 
of  hydrants,  streams  of  pure  water  are  perpetually  gushing.  On  this 
road,  and  towards  the  west,  are  located  the  government-house  and 
arsenal,  before  which  guards  are  constantly  patrolling. 

The  houses  of  some  of  the  residents  are  delightfully  located  amid 
gardens  of  plants,  native  and  exotic,  and  in  the  garden  of  Dr. 
Johnstone,  I  noticed  the  aloe,  vanilla,  ebony,  and  a  variety  of  others, 
all  of  which  seemed  thriving  in  a  congenial  soil.  Many  of  the  na- 
tive houses  make  greater  pretensions  than  those  or  the  Society 
islanders,  but  the  rickety  appearance  of  some  of  them  detracts  from 
the  natural  beauty  of  the  scenery.  The  market,  which  occupies  a 
central  position  between  the  Broom  and  Shore  Roads,  consists*  simply 
of  two  thatched  sheds,  open  on  all  sides,  and  each  about  thirty  feet 


296  Reef -Ravings  in  the  South  Seas. 

in  length  by  ten  in  breadth,  having  a  hydrant  near  them.  Its 
transactions  are  very  simple  :  when  a  native  has  any  provision  or 
fruits  to  dispose  of,  he  repairs  to  the  market  and  awaits  patiently  the 
arrival  of  a  customer.  This  the  law  requires ;  in  the  morning  are 
usually  found  here  old  men,  women,  and  children  with  bread-fruit, 
feis,  bananas,  vis,  (spondias,)  oranges,  bunches  of  cocoanuts  de- 
prived of  their  husks,  and  occasionally  pigs  and  fish,  the  former  liv- 
ing or  roasted  ;  and  it  is  sometimes  amusing  to  witness  the  haggling 
among  natives  and  foreigners  about  prices.  Towards  the  western 
portion  of  the  town,  and  in  the  rear  of  the  Bethel,  is  the  cemetery, 
where  were  buried  many  of  those  who  fell  during  the  war.  On  the 
east,  the  Broom  Road  has  been  reopened  through  an  embankment 
or  old  line  of  fortification,  erected  by  the  French  about  ten  years 
ago,  which,  conforming  to  the  sinuosities  of  a  small  stream,  extends 
from  the  shore  to  the  mountain.  A  neat  and  appropriate  residence 
has  been  erected  for  Queen  Po-ma-re  near  the  arsenal,  and  is  occupied 
alternately  with  her  native  residence  at  Papaoa,  at  the  option  of  her 
majesty. 

The  shirt  and  pareu  constitute  the  universal  costume  ;  even  the 
royal  consort  condescends  to  promenade  the  streets  barefooted,  his 
loins  girded  with  a  fathom  of  Merrimack  prints,  over  which  is  loosely 
adjusted  a  fancy  regatta  shirt.  The  garments  of  the  females  are  in 
accordance  with  the  liberality  of  their  admirers.  Some  of  them 
make  a  costly  display  of  silks,  while  sauntering  along  the  Broom 
Road,  with  their  glossy  black  hair  perfumed  with  the  sweet-scented 
rnarwc,  and  ornamented  with  the  white  flowers  of  the  Cape  jessa- 
mine fastened  negligently  among  the  braids.  During  the  evening  a 
motley  assemblage  is  usually  witnessed  upon  the  shore,  where  the 
street  is  promenaded  by  sailors,  civilians,  and  soldiers  wearing  the 
imperial  uniform,  hand-in-hand  with  naiads  of  questionable  reputa- 
tion. At  eight  o'clock  the  bugle  sounds,  when  natives  are  compelled 
to  retire  to  their  homes,  and  strangers  who  are  found  without  a 
"Permis  de  Sejour"  are  liable  to  arrest. 

With  all  its  beauty,  Papeete  cannot  boast  of  a  hotel,  this  descrip- 
tion of  public  convenience  being  confined  to  the  houses  of  enter- 
tainmemt  frequented  chiefly  by  seamen.  In  consequence,  it  is  cus- 
tomary for  visitors  to  rent  a  small  house,  and  either  hire  a  cook  or 


The  Broom  Road.  297 


effect  an  arrangement  with  the  proprietor  of  a  restaurant  to  have 
meals  sent  to  their  residences.  The  table  d'hote  is  at  present  of  the 
most  ordinary  description  ;  and  for  two  meals  a  day,  including 
wines,  thus  served,  at  9  A.  M.  and  4  p.  M.,  the  expense  is  twenty- 
eight  dollars  per  month.  Visitors  have  just  reason  to  complain  in 
this  respect,  and  there  is  sometimes  a  scarcity  of  fresh  provision, 
which  is  confined  almost  wholly  to  pork,  fish,  and  poultry. 

The  chief  attraction  of  Papeete  is  its  tranquil  aspect  and  the 
rustic  simplicity  everywhere  observable.  Although  there  are  spa- 
cious residences  reposing  beneath  canopies  that  never  fade,  there 
are  scenes  equally  attractive  in  the  humbler  walks  of  life,  and  the 
lattice  hut,  with  its  drooping  thatch  of  pandanus,  embowered  amid 
groves  of  the  broad-leafed  plantain,  merits  a  share  of  the  admira- 
tion Nature's  prodigality  voluntarily  calls  forth.  The  Broom  Road, 
shaded  by  umbrageous  arms  raised  over  it  from  venerable  trunks 
that  have  scattered  food  to  generations  now  forgotten,  is  the  scene  of 
many  a  pleasant  meeting,  at  sunset  or  in  the  mellow  twilight  of  evening. 
Here,  the  soldier  or  civilian  who  has  sauntered  through  continental 
cities,  and  who,  perhaps,  longs  again  for  the  scenes  of  la  belle  France, 
strangers  of  various  climes,  and,  above  all,  the  happy  groups  of  native 
lords,  promenade  its  beaten  centre,  or  repose  on  the  green-sward  of 
its  margin. 

The  ominous  blast  of  the  war-conch  and  the  expiring  wail  of  the 
victim  for  the  sacrificial  altar  are  forever  hushed.  Though  its  quiet 
groves  respond  less  frequently  to  the  mellow  notes  of  the  bamboo 
flute  or  the  soft  harmony  of  the  ute,  in  the  still  evening  the  stirring 
strains  of  the  bugle-call,  echoing  over  hills  and  through  valleys, 
awaken  their  repose  with  the  peans  of  a  conqueror. 


298  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

LIFE  IN  TOWN. 

I  RENTED  a  snug  little  cottage  on  the  Broom  Road,  shaded  by 
bread-fruit  trees  ;  and  beneath  the  windows  bloomed  the  jessamine, 
periwinkle,  geranium,  and  other  flowers,  while  from  the  .hydrant 
opposite,  a  pure  fountain  was  perpetually  gushing.  True,  it  was 
meagre  in  furniture,  for  what  little  I  possessed  remained  at  Raiatea. 
However,  it  was  in  this  respect  sufficiently  embellished  to  answer 
the  requirements  of  a  temporary  sojourn.  It  may  be  necessary  to 
mention  that  the  contemplated  voyage  of  the  Falcon  was  broken  up, 
and  I  was  compelled  to  abandon  my  visit  for  the  present  to  the  Pau- 
motu  Archipelago. 

I  was  usually  awakened  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning  by  the 
merry  sound  of  voices  proceeding  from  a  group  known  as  the  "  Broom 
Road  Gang."  It  was  certainly  the  most  interesting  "  gang"  assigned 
to  this  description  of  labor  I  ever  witnessed,  for  it  consisted  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  females,  from  the  silver-haired  matron  to  the  laugh- 
ing child,  who,  for  indulging  too  freely  in  the  intoxicating  beverage, 
had  been  condemned  to  sweep  the  road  every  morning  for  a  certain 
number  of  weeks,  but  were  permitted  to  return  to  their  homes  during 
the  day.  There  were  no  taskmasters  to  interfere  with  them,  and, 
as  usual,  there  was  more  gossip  than  work.  Sometimes  the  girls 
would  dip  their  brooms  in  the  clear  water  of  the  hydrant  and  sprinkle 
each  other  by  way  of  pleasantry,  and  then  there  would  be  a  chase 
among  the  guava  bushes.  None  of  them  lost  caste  by  performing 
this  sanitary  regulation,  and  there  was  at  times  as  flaunting  a  display 
of  fancy  robes  and  pareus,  as  when  hand-in-hand  they  promenaded 
the  thoroughfares  with  their  dusky  beaux. 

Unfortunately  for  them,  but  fortunately  for  me,  two  or  three  Amer- 
ican captains  "  were  thrown  upon  the  beach,"  owing  to  accidents  to 
their  vessels,  and  rather  than  submit  to  the  invalid  diet  of  the  res- 
taurants, we  clubbed  together,  and,  through  the  kindness  of  W.  H. 
Kelly,  Esq.,  our  consul,  were  favored  with  untenanted  rooms  in  the 


Pearl  Fishery.  299 


consulate  building,  where  we  met  to  enjoy  three  meals  a  day.  With- 
out occupation,  time  hangs  heavily  on  one's  hands  in  Papeete.  You 
sit  in  the  verandah  to  look  out  upon  the  harbor  with  its  shipping,  or 
watch  the  monotonous  patrol  of  the  sentinels,  the  careless  lounging 
of  the  natives  through  the  streets,  or  the  foreigners  passing  in  their 
neat  light  dresses  with  umbrellas.  The  arrival  of  a  ship  is  an  event, 
and  any  item  of  intelligence  thus  procured  is  gratuitously  circulated 
through  the  little  community  with  surpassing  quickness.  Sometimes 
the  low,  black  steamer  Phoque  is  seen  getting  up  steam,  and  this  oc- 
casions comment  among  the  curious  as  to  the  object,  for  the  govern- 
ment usually  maintains  a  mysterious  silence  in  this  respect.  Some 
surmise  that  she  is  destined  for  the  Marquesas,  to  avenge  an  attack 
made  by  the  natives  ;  others,  that  she  is  going  down  to  see  how 
things  look  among  the  leeward  islands  ;  and,  between  the  surmises 
of  one  and  the  conjectures  of  the  other,  she  steams  out  of  the  har- 
bor and  disappears,  no  one  knows  where.  Occasionally,  a  pearling 
schooner  arrives  with  its  valuable  freight,  and  discharges  it  on  the 
jetty,  in  front  of  the  store  of  its  owner.  It  is  no  uncommon  sight  to 
see  tons  of  beautiful  mother-of-pearl  piled  up  in  solid  walls  by  the 
roadside. 

This  trade  was  formerly  very  extensive  in  this  ocean  ;  but  it  now 
appears  to  be  engrossed  by  a  few  persons,  and  the  nucleus  of  its 
operations  is  Tahiti.  -  One  of  the  principal  dealers  in  this  article  of 
commerce  is  Mr.  Branda,  a  native  of  Scotland,  but  for  many  years 
a  resident  of  this  island,  and  who  has  schooners  continually  en- 
gaged in  the  trade.  In  fact,  the  greater  portion  of  it  he  monopolizes, 
for  among  the  islands  of  the  Paumotu  or  low  Archipelago,  he  has 
persons  continually  stationed  to  look  after  his  interests.  The  natives 
of  these  islands  where  shells  are  to  be  found,  are  indebted  to  him 
for  merchandise  advanced  to  them  for  diving,  and  he  finds  it  politic 
to  keep  them  constantly  in  his  debt.  In  procuring  these  shells,  the 
Paumotuan  divers  are  very  expert.  Having  discovered  a  "  bed"  in  a 
lagoon,  they  are  conveyed  in  a  boat  to  the  spot.  They  then  descend 
to  the  bottom,  carrying  with  them  a  bag,  to  which  is  attached  a  rope 
with  one  end  of  it  secured  in  the  boat.  When  this  is  filled,  (the 
divers  coming  frequently  to  the  surface  for  respiration,)  it  is  drawn 
up  and  emptied,  and  the  process  repeated  until  the  boat  is  ladened. 


300  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

It  is  a  life  of  fatigue  and  danger  for  the  natives.  On  coming  to  the 
surface,  the  blood  frequently  streams  from  their  noses,  while  their 
eyes  are  bloodshot.  The  true  pearls  are  seldom  found  ;  often  a 
cargo  of  shell  is  procured,  without  discovering  one.  The  natives 
are  well  acquainted  with  their  value,  and  are  seldom  disposed  to 
part  with  them  without  an  equivalent.  These  islands  are  low,  and 
of  coral  structure,  inclosing  at  times  extensive  lagoons,  their  outer 
margins  descending  abruptly,  and  frequently  the  ocean  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  is  unfathomable.  They  are  covered  with  forests  of 
cocoanut  and  pandanus,  and  sometimes  low  bushes.  The  food  fur- 
nished by  these  trees,  together  with  fish  and  swine,  is  all  the  natives 
have  to  subsist  on.  From  the  pandanus  they  obtain  a  sweet  seed 
inclosed  within  a  husk  or  drupe.  The  actual  cost  of  the  shells  is 
trifling,  compared  with  the  price  they  bring  in  England,  which  is 
something  like  fifty  pounds  per  ton. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Papeete  are  many  pleasant  walks,  and  the 
numerous  streams  afford  admirable  opportunities  for  bathing  ;  the 
A-ti-ri-a-ea  on  the  east,  and  the  Ti-pai-a-rui  on  the  west,  are  beautiful 
streams,  both  spanned  by  neat  and  substantial  bridges,  and  where  at 
any  hour  of  the  day  may  be  seen  natives  of  both  sexes  enjoying  this 
cool  luxury.  I  was  standing  upon  the  bridge  of  Tipaiarui  one  day 
when  sixteen  or  eighteen  men,  darker  than  the  Tahitians,  and  under 
the  guidance  of  a  French  overseer,  divested  themselves  of  their 
garments,  and  were  permitted  the  privilege  of  a  short,  bathe  ;  after 
which,  they  were  hurried  out  and  driven  forward  like  a  gang  of 
felons.  These,  I  was  afterwards  informed,  were  Christian  martyrs; 
they  were  natives  of  the  Chain  Islands,  and  had  embraced  the  Pro- 
testant faith  through  native  missionaries  ;  French  priests  were  sub- 
sequently introduced,  and  acting  under  the  protection  of  their  govern- 
ment, their  acts  were  deemed  arbitrary  by  those  whose  faith  they 
sought  to  subvert.  On  one  occasion  a  family  was  engaged  in 
evening  devotions,  when  a  Catholic  priest  knocked  for  admittance  ; 
the  Paumotuan  gave  him  to  understand  that  no  one  should  enter  his 
house  until  he  had  finished  praying  ;  whoever  did,  would  do  so  at  his 
peril.  The  priest  then  retired  and  procured  mutois  or  constables  ; 
these  forced  an  entrance,  and  in  the  melee  that  ensued,  one  of  them 
was  killed.  When  the  government  at  Papeete  was  notified  of  the 


.' 


Rides  about  Town.  301 


occurrence,  a  vessel  was  dispatched  to  the  island,  and  the  homi- 
cide, and  such  other  persons  as  were  obnoxious  to  the  priest,  were 
conveyed  to  Papeete,  where  one  or  two  of  them  were  hung,  protest- 
ing to  the  last  their  innocence  of  intentional  murder  ;  the  others 
were  enslaved  as  we  have  seen.  This  is  the  story  current  at 
Papeete.  I  frequently  saw  this  gang  of  old  and  young  men  pass 
through  the  streets  on  their  way  to  labor  upon  public  works,  and  sin- 
cerely pitied  them  ;  whether  they  were  condemned  or  not  to  a  life- 
time of  servitude,  I  have  never  learned. 

Equestrian  exercises  are  an  agreeable  diversion  to  the  monotony 
of  town  life.  I  hired  a  horse  of  a  cousin  of  Queen  Pomare,  which  I 
usually  kept  tethered  in  the  yard,  with  the  gate  closed,  but  twice  he 
was  missing  in  the  morning,  and  each  time  my  native  attendant  found 
him  in  the  pound,  where  I  was  obliged  to  pay  two  dollars  for  his  re- 
covery. I  have  always  believed  that  the  animal  was  purposely 
removed,  for  the  mutoi,  or  native  constable,  who  deposits  him  in  limbo, 
is  entitled  to  one  half  the  fine,  and  I  have  been  credibly  informed 
that  such  transactions  are  of  frequent  occurrence. 

A  beautiful  ride  is  upon  the  Broom  Road  towards  Fataoa  ;  having 
reached  the  Atiriaea,  the  road  diverges  to  the  right,  and  following 
the  bank  of  the  river,  winds  through  a  beautiful  valley,  arched  over 
in  many  places  by  a  luxuriant  growth  of  guava,  covered  with  the 
yellow  fruit,  which  is  also  strewed  upon  the  ground.  After  riding 
about  two  miles,  the  valley  grows  narrower,  until  it  finally  becomes 
a  deep  mountain-pass,  the  road  running  beside  a  foaming  torrent ; 
the  mape  and  other  lofty  trees  of  the  forest  are  now  discovered,  and 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  witnessed  one  of  the  features 
that  lend  beauty  to  the  landscapes  of  Tahiti.  This  is  a  narrow 
stream,  that  for  several  hundred  feet  has  torn  its  way  in  a  line  of 
foam  down  the  almost  perpendicular  side  of  the  mountain ;  too 
distant  to  be  heard,  it  seems  a  thread  of  silver  spanning  a  green 
mantle. 

Fataoa  itself  is  situate  among  fantastic  peaks,  forming,  as  seen 
from  the  harbor  of  Taonoa,  a  mural  crown,  almost  perfect  in  its 
resemblance  to  that  description  of  regalia,  and  serves  also  as  a  con- 
spicuous landmark  in  approaching  that  harbor.  This  spot  is  con- 
sidered the  key  of  the  island ;  it  was  the  last  fortress  that  held  out 


302  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

against  the  French,  and  was  only  reduced  by  the  treachery  of  a 
renegade  native  ;  it  is  now  occupied  by  the  French  as  a  post  of  de- 
fence, and  is  stocked  with  ammunition  and  provision.  Though 
having  forded  the  river  and  ascended  the  mountain  a  considera- 
ble distance,  I  never  visited  this  interesting  locality,  procrastinating 
until  it  was  too  late.  Its  scenery  is  said  to  be  the  most  wildly 
romantic  to  be  met  with  throughout  the  group. 

Another  favorite  ride  is  to  Matavai  or  Point  Venus,  four  miles  from 
Papeete,  over  an  excellent  road,  passing  through  the  hamlets  of  Ta- 
onoa  and  Papaoa.  Matavai  is  a  broad  level  space  of  land,  covered  with 
groves  and  beautifully  watered  by  a  large  stream  running  parallel 
with  the  shore.  The  spot  derives  additional  interest  from  its  asso- 
ciation with  the  names  of  early  voyagers,  including  that  of  Wallis, 
its  discoverer  in  1767  ;  Cook,  who  observed  the  transit  of  Venus  on 
the  point  bearing  that  planet's  name  ;  also,  Bligh,  of  the  ship  Bounty, 
for  it  was  here  that  his  crew  found  the  blandishments  of  the  fair 
islanders  irresistible. 

I  should  have  mentioned  that  among  the  sights  of  Papeete  I  saw- 
one  that  awakened  old  recollections  ;  it  was  all  that  remained  of  the 
beautiful  yacht  "  Kamehameha,"  now  lying  a  dismantled  hull  upon 
the  water,  and  unrecognizable  but  for .  the  faded  diadem  upon  her 
stern.  She  was  taken  by  the  French  from  Honolulu  after  their  dis- 
graceful foraging  expedition  in  1849,  and  used  as  a  sort  of  convoy, 
or  express  schooner,  and  subsequently  performed  trips  between  Ta- 
hiti and  the  Marquesas  Islands.  But  the  days  of  her  pride  appear 
to  have  been  numbered,  and  her  hull  now  floats  a  faded  relic  of 
petty  larceny. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

JOURNEYINGS   ON  THE  BROOM  ROAD 

SEQUESTERED  amid  an  amphitheatre  of  lofty  summits,  and  twenty- 
five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  reposes  a  beautiful  lake,  receiving 
the  tribute  of  a  hundred  gushing  rills,  and  courting  solitude  among 


Matrimonial  Differences.  303 

evergreen  mountains.  No  canoe  skims  over  its  cold,  green  waters, 
no  wreath  of  smoke  curls  above  the  forest  that  surrounds  it  ; 
precipitous  ridges,  clothed  with  a  mantle  of  dark  foliage,  mottled  by 
the  lighter  verdure  of  the  broad-plumed  fei,  descend  abruptly  to  its 
margin,  and  save  the  murmur  of  rills,  or  the  distant  waterfalls  that 
leap  from  their  sides  into  the  basin  beneath,  no  other  sound  disturbs 
the  solemn  stillness.  Owing  to  unavoidable  difficulties,  but  few  ever 
visit  this  lake,  and  hundreds  have  probably  rambled  among  the 
groves  of  Tahiti,  and  departed  without  knowing  that  such  a  moun- 
tain reservoir  ever  existed. 

For  lack  of  more  agreeable  occupation,  I  conceived  the  idea  of 
visiting  it.  As  such  an  enterprise  was  uncongenial  to  the  tastes 
or  habits  of  my  nautical  companions,  I  set  out  alone,  simply  pro- 
viding myself  with  blankets  and  a  few  changes  of  apparel,  which 
were  secured  in  a  roll  behind  the  saddle.  I  started  from  town  at 
six  in  the  morning,  leaving  it  by  the  road  on  the  west.  It  ran  parallel 
with  the  sea-shore,  though  a  space  perhaps  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in- 
tervened. It  was  bounded  on  either  side  by  the  apparently  inter- 
minable succession  of  groves.  Several  streams  were  passed,  usually 
forded,  and  near  one  of  them,  half  hidden  by  a  grove  of  orange  and 
bread-fruit  trees,  was  a  small  aubcrge ;  noticing  my  travelling 
equipment,  the  aubergiste  came  out  and  wished  me  "  un  bon  voyage." 
Occasionally  I  encountered  a  mounted  gendarme  cantering  leisurely 
along ;  but  the  most  interesting  spectacle  was  a  comment  on  the 
sweets  of  matrimony.  Coming  along  the  road,  I  saw  a  man  and 
woman  engaged  in  loud  debate,  and  as  they  approached  nearer,  I  dis- 
covered that  the  right  wrist  of  the  man  was  fastened  to  the  left  wrist 
of  the  woman  with  a  strip  of  bark,  leaving  the  space  of  a  foot  inter- 
vening. They  were  followed  by  two  native  constables,  from  whom 
I  learned  they  were  man  and  wife  who  had  had  a  disagreement  with 
each  other.  These  officials  listened  complacently  to  their  bitter  col- 
loquy, occasionally  shouting  to  them  when  their  repugnance  towards 
each  other  compelled  them  to  monopolize  the  greater  portion  of  the 
road  by  fruitless  efforts  to  twist  their  bonds  asunder. 

Natives  of  both  sexes,  conveying  their  fruits  to  market  in  the  cool 
of  the  morning,  were  frequently  met,  and  from  all  I  received  a  cor- 
dial iaurana.  About  six  miles  from  town  the  road  was  crossed  by  a 


304  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

narrow  stream  with  abrupt  banks  and  a  muddy  bottom,  into  which 
the  horse  refused  to  venture ;  the  more  I  spurred,  the  more  he 
pranced,  until  he  shied  bodily  into  the  guavas.  I  dismounted,  and 
leading  him  by  the  bridle  through  the  bushes,  discovered  a  spot  where 
it  was  fordable  by  stepping  upon  the  trunk  of  an  old  tree  that  lay  in 
the  water.  Having  reached  the  opposite  bank,  by  dint  of  coaxing 
my  beast  made  a  plunge.  It  was  the  work  of  a  moment ;  for,  after 
two  or  three  nervous  springs,  he  was  out  of  the  slough,  throwing  up 
with  his  hoofs,  as  he  landed  upon  the  bank,  a  shower  of  black  mud, 
which  in  its  descent  made  a  conspicuous  contrast  on  my  white  linen 
attire.  Saddle  and  baggage  were  completely  bespattered,  and  for  a 
brief  interval  my  thoughts  were  of  the  "  earth,  earthy  ;"  but  I  refrained 
from  changing  my  garments  until  after  arriving  at  Aowa,  where  I 
took  breakfast  at  half-past  nine.  Before  reaching  it,  I  passed  the 
wide  and  deep  valley  of  Punaru,  where  a  broad  stream  foamed 
over  a  rocky  bed ;  and  here  were  a  number  of  females  engaged  in 
fishing. 

The  Broom  Road  might  be  rendered  one  of  the  most  agreeable 
thoroughfares  among  the  isles  of  the  Pacific,  for  its  course  is  among 
the  low  level  land  of  the  shore,  sometimes  winding  through  a  dense 
forest  of  guava,  or  beneath  a  leafy  canopy  of  bread-fruit  and  orange 
and  lime  trees,  and  often  skirting  the  sea-shore,  amid  extensive 
groves  of  cocoa-palms.  Its  usual  breadth  is  from  eight  to  ten 
yards  ;  some  portions  of  it  are  as  clear  as  a  garden-walk,  the  natives 
being  compelled  by  the  government  to  remove  the  grass  and  other 
obstructions  from  that  portion  of  it  in  front  of  their  premises.  Its 
greatest  defect  is  the  want  of  suitable  bridges,  the  streams,  which 
are  numerous,  being  frequently  spanned  by  cocoanut  logs,  with  a 
few  planks  laid  carelessly  across.  At  short  intervals,  the  habitations 
of  the  natives  are  seen  emboAvered  amid  groves,  whose  fruits  supply 
their  wants  ;  and  some  of  these  rustic  domiciles,  constructed  of  the 
tender  stems  of  the  bamboo,  and  neatly  thatched  with  the  pandanus, 
were  exceedingly  picturesque  and  in  harmony  with  the  landscape. 
Occasionally  a  small  hamlet  is  passed,  and  the  merry  shouts  of 
children  are  heard  sporting  among  the  groves,  while  groups  of  the 
romance-loving  of  both  sexes  are  frequently  seen  coquetting  beneath 
shady  boughs  by  the  road-side.  All  seem  to  possess  open  expres- 


The  Girls  of  Pdpara.  305 


sion  of  countenance,  and  the  cordial  welcome  extended  to  the 
traveller  at  once  banishes  formality  or  suspicion.  The  habitations 
of  the  natives  are  usually  inclosed  with  low  fences,  constructed  ot 
purdu,  or  short  cocoanut  posts,  placed  uprightly  in  the  ground,  con- 
taining sometimes  small  cultivations  of  sweet  potatoes  and  taro,  and 
almost  invariably  groves  of  bananas,  plantains  and  bread-fruit.  The 
cocoanut-trees  prefer  the  sandy  soil  of  the  shore,  where  they  flourish 
vigorously,  though  the  sea  sometimes  washes  their  roots. 

I  selected  Aowa  as  a  halting-place,  because  recommended  to  do  so 
by  Adams,  who  was  acquainted  with  a  family  residing  here.  It  is  a 
small  hamlet,  scattered  through  a  shady  grove,  and  watered  by  a 
clear  stream  ;  one  of  the  young  men  removed  the  saddle  from  the 
horse  and  turned  him  out  to  browse,  while  my  breakfast  was  being 
cooked,  which  consisted  of  roast  fish,  chicken  and  bread-fruit,  and 
the  unfailing  beverage  of  the  young  cocoanut.  After  breakfast,  I 
laid  down  upon  the  mats  and  enjoyed  a  comfortable  nap ;  it  was 
half-past  one  before  I  was  again  in  the  saddle,  galloping  along  the 
Broom  Road. 

Soon  after  leaving  Aowa,  I  passed  a  row  of  about  twenty  large 
aito  trees,  standing  upon  the  shore  in  beautiful  contrast  to  the  denser 
foliage  beyond,  and  about  four  o'clock  reached  the  village  of  Pa- 
para,  the  most  considerable  one  to  be  met  with  on  the  western  portion 
of  the  island.  Here  for  the  first  time  I  saw  native  children  sporting 
upon  the  reef  with  surf-boards,  as  at  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

At  a  French  house  of  entertainment,  I  halted  for  a  few  moments 
to  obtain  refreshment,  and  a  group  of  the  young  of  both  sexes 
soon  gathered  round  to  witness  the  new  arrival,  all  making  good- 
humored  comments  on  my  travel-stained  appearance. 

As  soon  as  I  had  opened  my  mouth  to  reply,  there  was  a  general 
shout  among  the  girls  of,  "  Tadta  'yhee  !  tadta  'yhee  /"  The  truth 
is,  such  a  similarity  exists  between  the  Hawaiian  and  Tahitian 
dialects,  that  in  attempting  to  discourse  in  the  latter,  I  invaria- 
bly betrayed  my  acquaintance  with  the  former,  a  knowledge  of 
which  is  a  valuable  acquisition  to  persons  travelling  in  the  South 
Seas. 

When  preparing  to  leave,  I  was  importuned  by  half  a  dozen  of 
these  laughing  damsels  for  a  ride,  and,  being  indifferent  as  to  the 

20 


300  Reef-Racings  in  the  South  Seas. 

duration  of  my  journey,  I  gave  them  permission  to  mount  the  "  pua 
horo  fenua"  which  they  did  two  at  a  time,  galloping  down  the  road 
for  about  a  hundred  yards,  and  then  returning  to  give  place  to 
others.  The  delight  they  appeared  to  derive  from  their  equestrian 
exercise  was  infinite,  for  their  dark  tresses  streamed  loosely  behind 
them  as  they  dashed  on  laughing  and  shouting,  waving  green  boughs 
of  guava.  We  presently  came  to  a  clear,  shallow  stream,  with  a 
pebbly  bottom,  when  I  requested  them  to  dismount  that  I  might  cross 
it.  This  they  refused  to  do,  saying  that  I  would  ride  away  and  leave 
them.  They  insisted  on  carrying  me  over  ;  but  I  told  them  that  at 
home  we  would  consider  it  a  very  unfeminine  occupation.  In  reply 
they  said,  that  America  and  Tahiti  were  two  very  different  places, 
and  that  they  could  not  see  any  impropriety  in  performing  so  humane 
an  office.  Suiting  the  action  to  the  word,  two  of  the  strongest  seized 
me,  nolens  volens,  and  carried  me  across,  after  which  they  mounted 
and  galloped  off. 

Having  indulged  them  for  nearly  an  hour,  I  told  them  I  could  not 
possibly  lose  anymore  time.  Shaking  hands  and  exchanging  iaurd- 
nas  with  each  other,  we  parted  mutually  pleased,  they  at  having  ob- 
tained, and  I  at  having  conferred,  a  favor.  I  continued  my  journey 
more  slowly,  for  the  girls  had  given  my  horse  a  long  race,  and  about 
half  past  five,  began  to  look  out  for  comfortable  quarters  in  which 
to  pass  the  night.  These  I  found  at  Aurofa,  at  the  house  of  a  native 
named  Apo.  I  was  enticed  to  the  spot  by  the  odor  of  fish  and 
bread-fruit  that  were  roasting  upon  a  fine  bed  of  embers  in  front  of 
the  house,  and  around  which  were  sitting  a  dozen  persons,  male  and 
female.  Upon  inquiry,  they  tord  me  I  was  welcome  to  such  accommo- 
dations as  they  could  provide  ;  one  of  the  young  men  disposed  of  my 
horse,  while  the  children  carried  the  saddle,  bridle,  and  baggage 
into  the  house.  This  was  of  ample  dimensions,  and  had  three  bed- 
steads in  one  general  apartment,  besides  chests,  and  the  ordinary 
furniture  of  a  Tahitian  household.  The  supper  being  cooked,  I 
joined  them  at  the  fire,  and  in  addition  to  the  articles  before  enume- 
rated I  found  they  had  pork  and  shrimps.  But  a  brief  interval  was 
required  to  establish  a  familiar  acquaintance.  The  two  daughters 
or  visitors  of  my  host  soon  began  to  joke  me  about  my  adventures 
at  Papara.  They  called  me  a  "  tadta  'yhee"  and  sent  for  a  Sand- 


Domestic  Arrangements.  307 

wich  Islander  who  lived  a  short  distance  off  to  come  and  converse 
with  me.  Our  colloquy  was  listened  to  by  all  with  considerable  in- 
terest, the  affinity  of  the  two  dialects  to  each  other  frequently  call- 
ing forth  their  remarks.  About  eight  o'clock  our  neighbors  dis- 
persed, when  the  family  were  assembled  for  worship.  The  melody 
of  their  voices  was  charming,  and  after  the  hymn  a  chapter  was 
read,  followed  by  a  prayer.  Their  sleeping  arrangements  occasioned 
them  no  inconvenience.  Apo's  wife  showed  me  a  bed  with  sheets 
of  unquestionable  purity.  She  and  her  husband  occupied  one  a  short 
distance  off;  while  between  my  bed  and  that  of  the  girls  a  space  of 
but  two  or  three  feet  intervened.  There  were  no  curtains  in  the 
house,  and  the  juveniles  were  disposed  of  upon  mats.  A  light  breeze 
from  the  sea  crept  through  the  interstices  of  the  purau,  rendering 
the  apartment  refreshingly  cool,  and  a  deep  sonorous  breathing,  to 
which  I  probably  contributed,  soon  disturbed  the  stillness,  for,  having 
once  closed  my  eyes,  I  slept  soundly  until  morning. 


CHAPTER     XVIII. 

THE  MOUNTAIN  LAKE. 

I  ROSE  early  in  the  morning  and  went  out  to  the  bank  of  a  clear 
rivulet  to  perform  my  ablutions  ;  andl  after  partaking  of  an  early 
breakfast,  set  out  for  Papeuriri,  from  which  place  I  had  been  in- 
structed to  ascend  to  the  lake.  Like  other  hamlets,  it  was  scattered 
through  the  grove  at  convenient  intervals.  I  found  a  temporary 
abode  in  the  old  mission  residence,  which  had  long  been  tenanted 
by  Tahiti ans. 

Being  unable  to  obtain  from  the  natives  the  information  required 
respecting  the  lake,  and  having  learned  that  a  foreigner  was  resid- 
ing in  this  district  near  the  shore,  I  rode  down  to  the  place  as 
directed.  It  proved  to  be  a  sort  of  Robinson  Crusoe  cottage, 
bounded  by  an  almost  impenetrable  thicket  of  guava  on  one  side, 
and  the  ocean  on  the  other ;  its  possessor,  Mr.  Skelton,  was  an 


308  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

Englishman,  and  insisted  on  my  dismounting  and  partaking  of  a 
second  breakfast,  or  rather  lunch,  consisting  of  hot  toast  and  butter 
and  a  cup  of  coffee,  prepared  by  Mrs.  S . 

He  gave  me  such  information  as  he  could,  but  as  he  had  never 
visited  the  lake,  his  directions  were  desultory ;  however,  he  looked 
out  for  a  guide  to  accompany  me,  and  the  one  selected  was  a  young 
man  named  Ailima,  who  had  visited  the  place  but  once,  when  quite 
a  boy.  Mr.  Skelton  having  furnished  me  with  a  few  articles  which, 
he  said,  I  would  need  to  complete  our  preparations  for  the  ascent, 
I  returned  with  the  guide  to  the  house — a  spacious,  dilapidated  affair. 
As  is  usual  on  such  occasions,  there  was  a  crowd  of  idlers  looking 
on,  some  of  them  finding  fault  with  Ailima's  arrangements,  simply 
because  his  services  had  been  preferred  to  theirs.  As  a  Sand- 
wich Islander  would  have  done  on  a  similar  occasion,  our  baggage 
and  provision  were  carried  in  two  bundles,  adjusted  to  each  ex- 
tremity of  a  dry  purau  pole.  It  was  now  ten  o'clock,  and  the  guide 
and  others  advised  me  to  remain  where  I  was  over  night,  and  start 
early  on  the  following  morning,  in  order  to  return  the  same  day, 
alleging  that  no  foreigner  who  visited  it  slept  there,  on  account  of 
the  humid  atmosphere  of  the  mountains.  As  I  intended  camping 
out,  two  additional  boys  were  hired  to  assist  in  carrying  the  bedding, 
and  at  half  past  ten  we  commenced  our  journey,  accompanied  by  an 
ugly  little  cur  belonging  to  Ailima. 

On  leaving  the  settlement,  we  crossed  a  low  strip  of  land  thickly 
covered  with  purau,  its  interlacing  branches  frequently  retarding 
our  course,  and  after  proceeding  nearly  half  a  mile,  we  heard  the 
roaring  of  the  river,  whose  bed  was  to  be  our  principal  pathway  to 
the  mountains. 

Knowing  that  it  was  to  be  crossed  frequently,  I  dashed  into  it 
without  removing  my  boots  ;  it  was  about  twenty  yards  broa<J,  and  in 
depth  to  the  knees  ;  the  bottom  was  covered  with  loose  rolling 
stones.  After  fording  its  sinuosities  four  or  five  times  within  the 
space  of  fifteen  minutes,  I  found  that  the  task  of  sitting  upon  a  log 
and  elevating  my  feet  for  the  escape  of  the  water  from  my  boot-tops, 
was  becoming  very  inconvenient ;  accordingly,  the  boots  were  re- 
movejl  and  suspended  upon  a  branch  until  our  return. 

Our  path  lay  through  a  forest  of  majestic  vis,  or  Brazilian  plum- 


Dispensing  with  Superfluities.  309 

trees,  whose  ripening  fruit  was  studding  the  dark  foliage  like  yellow 
gems ;  there  were  numerous  other  lofty  "  monarchs  of  the  forest," 
whose  thick  branches  wove  a  dark  canopy  overhead,  and  from 
Papeuriri  to  Lake  Waihiria,  our  path  was  in  the  shade.  I  p^id 
dearly  for  my  experiment ;  walking  through  bushes  and  over  loose 
rolling  stones  barefooted,  requires  an  understanding  more  callous 
than  one  accustomed  to  leather.  Ascending  the  valley,  the  river 
became  more  circumscribed  and  rapid,  in  crossing  which,  I  was 
always  compelled  to  lean  upon  the  shoulders  of  Ailima  and  one  of 
the  boys  for  support.  Such  torture  to  the  feet  soon  became  unen- 
durable, and,  fortunately,  having  with  me  a  pair  of  coarse  overalls, 
I  tore  them  in  two  and  swathed  up  each  foot,  lacing  both  with 
strips  of  cloth.  Under  other  circumstances,  I  might  have  been  mis- 
taken for  a  patient  suffering  from  gout.  Though  exceedingly  cum- 
bersome, they  served  their  purpose  tolerably,  the  greatest  inconve- 
nience being  their  weight  and  the  trouble  of  readjusting  the  straps ; 
a  pair  of  thick  trowsers  lashed  on  to  the  feet  and  completely 
saturated  with  water  could  not  be  otherwise  than  an  impediment  to 
travelling. 

The  valley  grew  narrower,  and  large  trees  were  jutting  out  from 
its  precipitous  sides.  Growing  in  seemingly  inaccessible  places 
was  the  wild  banana  or  broad-leaved  fei,  with  the  reddish  fruit 
clustering  around  the  stalk  that  arose  perpendicularly  from  the  leafy 
crown.  The  bottom  was  covered  with  an  almost  impenetrable 
growth  of  trees,  underwood,  clumps  of  bamboo,  and  cane-brakes,  so 
that  travelling  through  them  was  very  fatiguing,  as  we  were  com- 
pelled to  stoop  continually  to  avoid  the  low  branches  above.  Instead 
of  pursuing  a  straight  course,  the  river  was  more  sinuous  than 
ever,  and  we  were  compelled  to  ford  it  continually,  though  in 
some  places  it  was  exceedingly  rapid.  Ailima's  dog  was  a  great 
source  of  inconvenience  to  him,  for  he  would  never  plunge  into  the 
cold,  rapid  current  until  after  he  had  seen  us  cross  over  and  disappear 
among  the  bushes,  when  we  were  notified  of  his  movements  by  a 
few  premonitory  yelps  as  he  jumped  into  the  water,  to  be  borne 
downward  some  fifteen  or  twenty  yards  before  reaching  the  oppo- 
site bank.  Sometimes  Ailima  would  coax  and  scold  before  he  could 
induce  him  to  venture  the  torrent.  In  fording  one  of  these  rapid 


310  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

passages,  the  boy  who  carried  the  coffee  and  a  few  other  items  in  a 
large  tin  pot  found  the  current  too  deep  and  strong  for  him  when  he 
had  reached  mid-channel,  and  he  shouted  lustily  as  he  lost  his  foot- 
ing and  was  swept  downward.  This  was  a  new  feature  in  the  pro- 
gramme. I  anticipated  nothing  less  than  the  complete  destruction 
of  our  small  stores.  But  the  boy  was  a  brave  one  ;  while  struggling 
in  the  water,  the  hand  that  held  the  cup  was  raised  above  his 
head,  so  that  not  a  drop  could  enter.  He  was  borne  into  shallow 
water,  where  he  regained  his  footing.  Occasionally  we  sat  down  to 
enjoy  a  smoke,  and  our  fire  was  procured  by  rubbing  together  two 
pieces  of  the  purdu,  which  was  an  infallible  resource.  Sometimes 
the  boys  gathered  the  ripe  feis  and  ate  them,  but  to  me  they  tasted 
too  raw  without  having  undergone  a  culinary  process. 

Having  ascended  the  valley  to  within  a  short  distance  of  its  com- 
mencement, we  had  a  beautiful  sight  on  our  left.  Down  the  almost 
perpendicular  side  of  the  mountain,  and  more  than  a  hundred  feet  in 
height,  a  narrow  stream  tore  its  way  through  the  verdure  in  a  line  of 
foam  and  fell  in  a  shower  upon  the  groves  beneath.  Several  others 
from  a  lesser  height  were  pouring  from  rocky  fountains,  and  all  con- 
tributing to  swell  the  Waihiria.  The  mountain  bounding  the  head  of 
the  vale  rises  abruptly,  and  from  its  base,  in  two  serpentine  streams, 
bursts  the  river,  several  hundred  feet  below  the  surface  of  its  reser- 
voir. The  ascent  is  accomplished  by  a  narrow  rocky  path,  winding 
frequently  along  the  face  of  a  cliff,  arid  barely  wide  enough  for  one 
person  to  pass  at  a  time.  After  attaining  a  safe  eminence,  we  found 
the  ruins  of  an  old  fort  erected  by  the  natives  during  the  war.  Its 
position  commanded  the  only  route  by  which  the  eminence  could  be 
gained.  The  view  from  this  spot  was  wildly  romantic ;  the  narrow- 
ness of  the  valley,  and  the  corresponding  inequalities  in  its  lofty 
precipitous  sides,  appeared  the  result  of  some  mighty  convulsion 
that  had  rent  the  earth  asunder.  Every  portion  of  it  was  now 
clothed  with' a  variegated  mantle  of  living  green,  vegetating  with  the 
profuse  luxuriance  of  the  tropics  ;  through  openings  in  the  grove 
beneath,  glimpses  were  caught  of  the  rivulet  foaming  over  its  rocky 
bed.  We  now  entered  avast  forest  of  feis,  and  here  was  lost  every 
vestige  of  a  path.  The  thick  leaves  overhead  completely  shut  out 
every  object  from  view,  so  that  we  had  nothing  by  which  to  direct 


Encamped  at  Lake  Waihiria.  311 

our  course.  Ailiraa  was  sadly  puzzled  to  recognize  localities  ; 
and  after  roaming  at  random  for  half  an  hour,  he  told  us  to  remain 
where  we  were,  and  he  would  go  and  look  for  the  lake.  After  a 
short  absence  he  returned,  saying  he  could  not  find  it,  and  that  we 
must  push  on  through  the  forest.  Our  progress  was  much  obstructed 
by  the  herbaceous  stems  of  fci  trees  that  covered  the  ground,  in 
every  stage  of  decomposition  ;  and,  after  floundering  over  them  for 
a  considerable  time,  we  began  gradually  to  descend.  Huge  boulders 
were  scattered  around ;  and  at  four  o'clock,  emerging  from  the  bush, 
the  beautiful  lake  was  spread  out  before  us. 

This  (the  southern)  is  the  most  convenient  and  favorable  side  from 
which  to  view  it,  for  here,  to  a  considerable  extent,  the  ground  is 
level  and  comparatively  unobstructed,  while  on  the  other  side  it  is 
bounded  by  fantastic  peaks  and  precipitous  ridges  that  descend  in 
abrupt  spurs  to  the  margin  of  the  lake.  The  brows  of  some  of  these 
lofty  summits  appear  to  be  a  mass  of  rock  across  which  vegetation 
creeps  horizontally,  and  are  frequently  enveloped  by  the  dense  vapors 
floating  around  them. 

Captain  Beechy,  in  his  voyage  to  the  Pacific,  estimates  this  lake 
to  be  but  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  circumference,  with  an  elevation 
of  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea ;  while  Kotzebue 
has  assigned  to  it  an  elevation  of  about  two  thousand  five  hundred 
feet.  From  my  own  superficial  observation,  supported  by  that  of 
others,  I  should  judge  its  extent  to  be  more  than  double  the  estimate 
of  the  former  voyager.  Its  temperature,  as  observed  by  Lieut. 
Belcher,  of  the  expedition,  was,  "  at  7  A.  M.,  72°,  and  that  of  the  at- 
mosphere 71°  ;  during  a  shower  of  rain  it  rose  to  74° ;  a  thermome- 
ter at  the  level  of  the  sea  at  the  same  time  stood  at  77°."  On  the 
eastern  side  Mr.  Belcher  found  great  quantities  of  vesicular  shaggy 
lava,  and  also  noticed  other  evidences  of  volcanic  action,  such  as 
crystals  of  basaltic  hornblende,  and  a  few  of  olivine,  upon  the  surface 
of  the  lava.  The  general  contour  of  the  mountains  favors  the  suppo- 
sition that  the  waters  of  the  lake  repose  in  a  volcanic  basin  or  crater. 
The  water  looked  clear  at  a  distance,  as  the  sunlight  was  sparkling 
upon  it ;  but  on  examination,  I  found  it  to  be  of  an  opaque  greenish 
color  ;  yet  when  poured  from  a  cup,  it  had  nothing  to  distinguish  it  from 
the  clear  river  of  which  it  was  the  reservoir.  It  is  said  to  abound 


312  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

with  huge  eels,  and  of  this  I  have  not  the  slightest  doubt,  for  they 
are  numerous  in  the  mountain  streams.  On  my  return  to  Papeunri, 
some  of  the  old  natives  informed  me  that,  during  the  French  war, 
when  many  of  them  had  fled  to  the  mountains  for  safe  refuge,  these 
eels,  with  feis  and  taro,  were  all  they  had  to  subsist  upon.  For 
conveyance  across  the  lake,  they  usually  lashed  together  fei  trunks 
and  made  a  raft.  When  I  left  Papeuriri,  it  was  my  intention  to  swim 
across  it ;  but  being  fatigued  with  my  jaunt,  I  abandoned  the  pro- 
ject. A  memorandum  which  I  have  accidentally  discovered  in  an 
old  pocket-book  that  I  carried  with  me  on  that  occasion,  will  give  an 
idea  of  our  situation,  and  which  I  subjoin  without  the  alteration  or 
addition  of  a  word. 

Sunset. — "  Encamped  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Waihirfa  at  last ;  but 
what  a  penance  I  have  undergone  to  gratify  a  whim  !  A  jaunt  to 
Kilauea  is  positively  a  pleasure,  compared  with  this  pilgrimage.  I 
have  travelled  nearly  all  day  barefooted,  and  by  count  have  forded 
the  river  Waihiria  sixty- five  times.  Our  road  lay  up  a  narrow  val- 
ley, and  when  not  in  the  river  wound  through  brush  and  brake — in 
fact,  there  was  nothing  that  could  be  dignified  with  that  name.  We 
arrived  at  the  shore  of  the  lake  about  four  o'clock,  when  my  guide 
and  the  two  .boys  immediately  set  about  constructing  a  hut.  At  this 
moment  it  is  completed,  though  primitive  enough — a  shed,  the  frame 
of  guava,  and  thatch  of  fei  leaves.  The  interior  is  strewed  with 
the  dried  leaves  of  the  fei  and  wild  sugar-cane.  Our  supper  is 
well  under  way,  consisting  of  roast  fowl,  ditto  fish,  feis,  bread-fruit, 

and,  thanks  to  the  kindness  of  Mr.  S ,  a  loaf  of  bread,  coffee, 

and  sugar.  I'll  wager  that  few  have  encamped  upon  the  shores  of 
this  lake  with  prospects  so  inviting." 

Our  supper  was  excellent,  and  was  eaten  with  a  relish  after  the  fa- 
tigues of  the  day.  This  necessary  ceremony  having  been  disposed 
of,  we  sat  around  the  fire,  and  Ailima  entertained  us  with  stories 
about  the  war,  which  terminated  in  a  series  of  whoops,  in  imitation 
of  an  old  custom  among  the  natives  ;  after  which  we  spread  our 
bedding  upon  the  dry  leaves  in  the  hut,  and  Ailima  having  offered 
up  a  short  prayer,  we  laid  down  and  slept  soundly  through  the  night. 


A  Vagrant's  Soliloquy.  313 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

ETCHINGS    AND    INCIDENTS. 

IN  the  morning,  my  feet  were  so  lame  I  could  hardly  stand.  This 
was  in  some  degree  remedied  by  binding  on  a  quantity  of  dried 
leaves,  to  render  them  less  susceptible  to  the  inequalities  of  the 
ground  over  which  we  were  to  travel.  Without  incident  worthy  of 
note,  we  reached  Papeuriri  about  noon,  and  here  I  concluded  to  re- 
main until  the  following  morning. 

This,  like  the  other  districts  through  which  I  had  passed,  was 
fertile,  and  covered  with  luxuriant  groves  ;  but  there  was  hardly  an 
evidence  of  cultivation  to  be  witnessed  around  the  habitations  of  the 
natives.  Bread-fruit  and  wild-bananas  constituted  their  vegetable 
diet.  To  procure  the  latter,  they  encounter  more  actual  trouble 
than  they  would  to  cultivate  an  acre  of  ground.  On  such  occasions 
they  sometimes  travel  miles,  fording  streams  and  ascending  moun- 
tains, to  return  by  the  same  difficult  route  encumbered  with  heavy 
loads.  In  every  direction  are  to  be  met  stout,  athletic  young  men, 
too  independent  to  work,  and  not  ashamed  to  beg  ;  and  it  unfortu- 
nately happens  that  the  hospitality  of  these  natives  encourages  such 
idleness.  Frequently  a  gang  of  young  fellows,  in  want  of  a  break- 
fast or  lunch,  will  assemble  to  take  measures  for  gratifying  the  crav- 
ings of  an  empty  stomach  ;  and,  instead  of  going  out  upon  the  reef 
to  earn  a  meal,  one  of  them  ascends  a  lofty  tree  to  make  obserrations, 
while  his  companions  sit  patiently  beneath.  From  his  eyrie  of  leafy 
boughs,  he  looks  over  groves  of  bread-fruit,  banana,  orange,  and 
other  trees,  not  forgetting  to  take  cognizance  of  the  Broom  Road 
and  its  pedestrians.  This  individual  has  ascended  to  his  post  for 
the  purpose  of  making  observations,  not  astronomic,  but  gastronomic  ; 
for,  being  perfectly  acquainted  with  localities,  he  watches  until  he 
sees  a  light  breath  of  smoke  curling  above  the  foliage.  Then  he 
soliloquizes  : — 

"  Let  me  see.  That  smoke  must  come  from  old  Ohuri's  (Bald- 
pate's)  oven,  because  it  rises  close  by  that  clump  of  cocoanut-trees, 


314  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

near  the  shore,  where  his  house  stands.  I  wonder  whether  he  has 
got  any  friends  this  morning.  Should  like  to  know  what  he's  got 
cooking  there.  Smoke  looks  very  black.  Perhaps  he  is  roasting 
a  pig." 

This  discovery  is  announced  to  the  expectants  below,  with  the 
inquiry  whether  any  of  them  were  acquainted  with  the  recent  con- 
dition of  Ohuri's  larder.  Perhaps  one  says  he  saw  him  mending 
his  net  yesterday  ;  upon  which  another  immediately  suggests  that 
they  shall  probably  have  roast  albicore  for  breakfast ;  and  all  congrat- 
ulate themselves  on  their  good  fortune.  Meanwhile,  the  individual 
in  the  tree  maintains  his  position,  watching  for  any  new  phase  that 
may  come  over  the  aspect  of  things.  An  additional  wreath  of 
smoke,  the  launching  of  a  canoe,  or  even  the  squealing  of  a  pig,  are 
all  jotted  down  as  strong  circumstantial  evidences,  and  are  treasured 
in  his  memory  as  events  that  must  necessarily  have  a  sequel.  He 
can  calculate  to  a  nicety  how  long  it  is  necessary  for  an  oven  to 
smoke  before  its  contents  are  removed  ;  and  measuring  with  his  eye 
the  distance  to  the  object  from  the  point  of  observation,  he  seldom 
errs  in  judgment.  These  graceless  young  scamps  then  take  their 
departure  for  Ohuri's  domicil,  which  they  enter,  each  with  a  salu- 
tation equivalent  to  "  Peace  be  unto  all  within  this  house  !"  Old 
Ohiiri  has  just  "  taken  up  his  oven,"  consisting  of  a  piece  of  fish  and 
a  few  roast  feis,  just  sufficient  for  a  comfortable  meal  for  himself, 
Mrs.  Ohuri,  and  an  only  daughter.  He  yearns  over  the  viands 
smoking  before  him,  for  they  have  been  procured  by  his  own  exer- 
tions. Nevertheless,  he  must  return  the  salutation  and  invite  them 
to  partake  with  him,  because  it  is  a  custom  held  sacred,  and  was 
considered  inviolable  by  their  ancestors  before  them. 

With  reference  to  their  Protectorate,  the  French  are  certainly 
lenient  in  some  respects  ;  if  the  proprietor  of  a  habitation  is  com- 
pelled by  law  to  improve  the  road  that  passes  it,  the  requirement  is 
both  simple  and  just.  A  project  has  been  entertained,  compelling 
landed  proprietors  to  cultivate  an  acre,  or  at  least  a  half,  of  land  ;  the 
theory  is  good,  if  it  can  be  reasonably  adopted,  for  arbitrary  measures 
having  a  tendency  to  coerce  industry  cannot  prove  worse  than  the 
existing  state  of  affairs. 

A  limited  number  of  foreigners  reside  in  this  vicinity,  but  their  res- 


Royalty — A  Courtier.  315 

idences  are  so  scattered  that  there  are  but  few  opportunities  for 
social  intercourse.  Occasionally  a  small  place  of  entertainment, 
usually  French,  is  seen,  stocked  principally  with  claret  and  inferior 
brandy  ;  as  to  sleeping  accommodations,  such  an  arrangement  is 
never  expected.  Everything  seems  to  lack  vitality,  and  yet  the 
absence  of  native  industry  cannot  be  for  want  of  suitable  encour- 
agement ;  all  their  surplus  produce  would  find  a  ready  market  in 
Papeete.  Their  principal  resource  are  their  orange-trees,  which 
yield  them  a  harvest  without  trouble,  while  some  of  the  more  indus- 
trious resort  to  the  forest  for  feis  and  vis,  which  they  convey  to 
market  in  canoes,  and  for  which  they  always  receive  an  equivalent 
in  cash. 

The  following  morning  I  left  Papeuriri  for  Papeete,  thirty  miles 
distant,  which  I  reached  at  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  ;  while  pass- 
ing his  house,  Adams  came  out  to  meet  me,  remarking  that  I  had 
arrived  just  in  time,  as  a  party  had  been  made  up  to  visit  the  adjoin- 
ing island  of  Moorea  the  next  day,  an  invitation  I  could  not  conven- 
iently accept. 

One  morning  while  enjoying  the  sea-breeze  in  the  verandah  of  Mr. 
Evans'  store,  Pomare-tane,  the  royal  consort,  walked  into  the  main 
apartment,  and  reclining  upon  the  counter,  disposed  of  his  head  upon 
a  pile  of  blue  drills.  Soon  after,  two  females  entered  the  store,  one 
of  them  almost  decrepit  with  age,  the  other  young  ajad  pretty ;  be- 
tween Pomare-tane  and  the  latter,  suspicious  glances  of  recognition 
were  exchanged  as  they  cordially  shook  hands  with  each  other  ;  the 
former,  however,  deemed  herself  unworthy  of  such  royal  condescen- 
sion, and  taking  hold  of  the  king's  great-toe,  she  gave  it  a  gentle 
oscillation  with  her  thumb  and  finger,  to  the  great  diversion  of 
Pomare-tane  and  others  present.  Evans  remarked  that  she  was  one 
of  the  ancient  regime.  The  king  is  a  finely-proportioned  man,  with 
handsome  features,  but  careless  and  dissipated  in  his  habits.  At  the 
time  of  my  visit,  Queen  Pomare  was  in  ill  health,  and  in  conse- 
quence, I  deferred  waiting  upon  her.  King  Tapoa,  of  Borabora, 
was  here — a  fat,  portly,  good-natured  individual,  who  preferred  play- 
ing the  courtier  to  her  majesty  to  superintending  the  administration 
of  laws  in  his  own  kingdom. 

A  broad  distinction  is  observable  between  the  royalty  of  the  Ha- 


316  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

waiian  and  that  of  the  Georgian  and  Society  Islands.  At  the  former 
group  we  find  the  nobility  educated,  familiar  with  court  etiquette, 
and  the  usages  of  polite  society  ;  also  manifesting  a  preference  for 
apparel  suited  to  the  position  to  which  by  birth  and  attainments  they 
have  been  exalted.  At  the  latter,  on  ordinary  occasions,  we  hardly 
discover  a  characteristic  distinction  of  royalty  among  the  chiefs,  not- 
withstanding the  efforts  that  have  been  made  in  their  behalf.  Their 
acquirements,  except  those  requisite  for  ordinary  social  intercourse, 
are  chiefly  limited  to  scriptural  catechism ;  from  daily  evidences, 
it  would  appear  that  the  old  leaven  has  not  been  thoroughly  purged 
out,  for  there  is  hardly  a  noble  who  would  not  prefer  girding  his  loins 
with  the  unfettered  folds  of  the  pareu,  to  incasing  them  with  the 
fashions  of  civilization. 

An  anecdote  illustrative  of  the  administration  of  justice  during  the 
first  years  of  the  Protectorate,  is  too  good  to  pass  unnoticed  :  for  the 
truth  of  it  I  can  vouch.  A  native  had  presented  an  American,  the 
proprietor  of  a  restaurant  in  Papeete,  with  a  fine  roaster  worth  two 
dollars,  which  was  duly  dressed  and  suspended  in  the  cook-house. 
During  the  night  it  was  stolen  by  a  hungry  Tahitian,  and  subse- 
quently disposed  of  in  the  ordinary  manner;  without  difficulty  the 
perpetrator  of  the  theft  was  detected,  and  a  warrant  or  proces  verbal 
issued  accordingly,  summoning  the  culprit  to  appear  before  the 
grand  tribunal. •  He  pleaded  guilty,  alleging,  in  extenuation,  an  irre- 
sistible hankering  for  fresh  pork,  which  he  innocently  sought  to  ap- 
pease. In  accordance  with  the  evidence,  he  was  convicted,  and 
sentenced  to  imprisonment.  But  the  joke  is  to  come  :  by  the  law,  if 
the  criminal  is  unable  to  pay  his  prison  fees,  the  expense  attending 
confinement  must  be  defrayed  by  the  prosecutor ;  in  the  present  in- 
stance, the  native  being  destitute  of  either  chattels  or  legal  tender, 
the  costs,  together  with  those  of  the  proces  verbal,  &c.,  fell  upon 
our  publican.  The  price  of  the  document  was  five  dollars,  and 
the  expense  of  imprisonment  about  twelve  and  a  half  cents  per 
day. 

At  this  time  the  American  consul  arrived,  and  the  prosecutor  hav- 
ing already  expended  something  like  ten  dollars,  with  the  prospect 
of  indemnity  for  his  wrong  remote  as  ever,  he  applied  to  the  rep- 
resentative of  his  country  for  redress.  As  this  was  not  an  inter- 


A  Publican  in  a  "  Fix."  317 

national  affair,  the  consul  could  simply  advise,  which  was,  to  call 
upon  his  excellency  the  governor,  and  respectfully  to  make  a  plain 
statement  of  the  case  to  him,  when  his  grievances  would  probably  be 
redressed.  Accordingly,  he  started  off  with  this  intention.  During 
the  afternoon,  when  returning  to  his  residence,  the  consul  met  the 
aggrieved  party  in  his  best  attire  coming  down  the  Broom  Road, 
with  several  neatly  folded  papers  in  his  hand  (documentary  evi- 
dences) secured  with  red  tape,  and  he  very  naturally  inquired 
whether  his  excellency  had  favored  his  petition. 

"  No,"  said  the  plaintiff,  "  I  reached  the  gate — raised  the  latch — 
thought  a  moment — then  dropped  it ;  I  concluded  that  if  I  went  in, 
they'd  manage  to  get  ten  dollars  more  out  of  me,  so  I  thought  I'd 
let  well  alone  and  come  away." 

At  the  present  day,  cases  of  this  description  are  more  summarily 
disposed  of ;  if  a  native  steals  a  pig,  he  must  pay  ten  in  return,  or 
become  a  public  servant  for  a  few  months. 

A  few  days  subsequent  to  my  return  to  Papeete,  the  steamer 
"  Monumental  City"  arrived  with  a  large  number  of  passengers  en 
route  for  Australia.  The  vigilance  of  the  police  was  brought  into 
requisition,  for  a  liberal  proportion  of  these  northern  invaders  would 
have  made  themselves  conspicuous  at  a  Vigilance  Committee  execu- 
tion. As  might  be  supposed,  the  filibustering  propensity  that  had 
been  nurtured  among  the  canons  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  occasionally 
displayed  itself  amid  the  quiet  scenes  of  the  Broom  Road ;  but  the 
police  were  always  prompt  to  suppress  these  ebullitions  of  republi- 
canism, and  a  night's  lodging  in  the  calaboose  proved  an  admirable 
antidote  for  effervescing  spirits.  The  tragedy  connected  with  this 
unfortunate  vessel  is  familiar  to  many :  during  a  voyage  from  Mel- 
bourne to  Sydney,  she  was  wrecked  off  Rain's  Head,  by  which  sad 
occurrence  thirty-two  lives  were  lost,  including  the  surgeon  and  the 
owner,  Peter  Strobel,  Esq.,  of  Baltimore. 

It  was  my  intention  to  visit  Australia  by  this  steamer,  and  learn- 
ing from  Captain  Adams  that  she  would  be  detained  at  this  port 
nearly  a  week,  I  determined  to  proceed  at  once  to  Raiatea  to  pro- 
cure a.few  indispensable  articles  left  there,  and  return  immediately  in 
season  to  take  passage.  As  there  was  neither  ship  nor  schooner 
up  for  the  leeward  islands,  I  was  compelled  to  charter  a  native 


318  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

sloop,  bound  for  Maupiti,  to  deviate  from  her  course  and  land  me  at 
Raiatea  ;  having  effected  an  arrangement  with  the  proprietor,  I  sailed 
from  Papeete  the  following  afternoon. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

A     TAHITIAN    PACKET. 

IT  must  have  been  nearly  two  o'clock  p.  M.  before  our  prepara- 
tions for  departure  were  completed  ;  natives  are  proverbial  for  their 
slowness,  and  in  this  instance  I  was  in  no  wise  disposed  to  question 
the  imputation,  we  having  contemplated  starting  at  early  dawn.  I 
accompanied  Jack,  a  grizzly  old  Tahitian  who  officiated  as  master, 
to  our  conveyance,  which  lay  moored  near  one  of  the  stone  jetties, 
and  for  the  first  time  boarded  it.  But  a  glance  was  requisite  to  an- 
ticipate misery  in  perspective.  The  boat  was  about  eighteen  feet  in 
length  and  of  proportionate  breadth,  sloop-rig,  but  built  by  natives  in 
the  most  clumsy  manner.  The  hold  and  cabin  were  one — the  former 
stowed  full,  and  the  latter  in  nearly  the  same  condition,  with  barely 
room  sufficient  for  three  or  four  persons  to  lie  down  upon  the  bag- 
gage, and  that  in  a  variety  of  postures.  My  compagnons  de  voyage 
consisted  of  Jack  the  master,  and  three  men,  including  the  cook, 
Tuahine,  who  was  shockingly  disfigured  by  the  fefe,  (elephantia- 
sis ;)  also  a  Paumotuan  with  his  wife  and  three  children,  and  her 
two  sisters — the  latter  being  of  the  respective  ages  of  eight  and 
fourteen.  » 

With  a  light  breeze  we  swept  slowly  out  of  the  harbor,  encoun- 
tering a  heavy  swell  at  the  entrance  that  rendered  our  situation 
extremely  unpleasant,  owing  to  the  smallness  of  the  vessel.  A  strong 
current  setting*  to  leeward,  compelled  us  to  resort  to  sweeps  to 
avoid  the  dangerous  proximity  of  the  reef,  where  the  sea  was  break- 
ing in  sheets  of  foam.  Having  obtained  a  good  offing,  we  were 
favored  with  a  fine  breeze  from  the  southeast,  and  our  boat,  clumsy 
as  an  ark,  by  dint  of  rolling  and  staggering,  moved  slowly  along. 


An  Approaching  Storm.  319 

As  the  white  houses,  groves,  and  more  minute  features  of  the  land- 
scape were  fading,  the  elder  sister,  after  many  a  longing  look,  hid 
her  face  in  her  pareu,  and  wore  away  her  grief  by  sobbing  in  silence. 
Not  so  the  younger,  whose  features  were  good-natured  and  mirthful, 
and  soon  the  other,  whose  sadness  proved  transient  as  a  passing 
cloud,  assumed  her  usual  demeanor,  and  joined  with  her  companions 
in  the  light  conversation  peculiarly  their  own.  Observers  of  Poly- 
nesian character  cannot  fail  to  remark  how  readily  these  natives 
seize  upon  incidents  of  trifling  moment,  and  in  them  find  matter  of 
interest  and  diversion,  frequently  under  circumstances  of  difficulty 
and  danger.  And  thus  with  my  companions,  whose  volubility  con- 
tinued without  interruption,  until  the  appearance  of  the  sky,  which  had 
become  gradually  overcast,  betokened  a  storm.  It  was  now  draw- 
ing towards  night ;  Tahiti  was  barely  discernible,  so  enshrouded  was 
it  by  the  heavy  black  clouds  rising  from  the  southeast,  but  Moorea, 
with  its  wild  mountains  and  sharp  pinnacles,  loomed  darkly  be- 
fore us.  The  approach  of  the  storm  was  made  apparent  by  the  in- 
creasing wind  that  swept  us  rapidly  along.  At  my  request,  mother, 
sisters,  and  children  weet  below,  though  with  seeming  reluctance, 
thinking  that  they  had  no  right  to  monopolize  the  cabin,  as  I  had 
chartered  the  vessel.  The  rain  poured  like  a  deluge,  but  as 
drowning  seemed  preferable  to  suffocation,  I  remained  for  awhile 
upon  deck.  A  half-hour's  meditation  in  this  shower-bath  induced 
a  change  of  resolution ;  I  went  below,  leaving  orders  with  Jack  to 
"  make  any  port  in  a  storm,"  and  take  us  into  one  of  the  harbors  of 
Moorea. 

The  inconveniences  of  a  small  Hawaiian  coaster  were  nothing  in 
comparison  with  these  :  mother,  sisters,  and  children  were  sleeping 
upon  the  luggage,  cramped  up  in  an  inconceivably  small  space,  with 
the  perspiration  pouring  from  them  in  torrents.  A  lamp  was  burn- 
ing, secured  to  one  of  the  beams,  and  the  heat  was  almost  stifling ; 
add  to  this  a  number  of  streams  trickling  through  the  ill-calked 
seams,  and  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  our  cabin.  My  first  care 
was  to  extinguish  the  light,  and  then  to  beg  Jack  to  partially  remove 
the  hatch  from  the  scuttle,  for  ventilating  purposes  ;  but  he  was  in- 
exorable, and  declared  that  if  he  did  so,  the  vessel  would  fill  faster 
than  his  men  could  relieve  it  by  pumping.  In  consequence,  the 


320  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

hatch  was  replaced  over  the  scuttle  and  covered  with  an  old  tar- 
paulin. 

The  mother  having  appropriated  a  portion  of  my  bedding,  and  the 
remainder  being  inaccessible,  I  reclined  in  a  sitting  posture  against 
the  side  of  the  vessel,  and,  for  a  wonder,  slept.  About  eleven 
o'clock  the  cook  came  to  arouse  us.  We  were  snugly  anchored  in- 
side the  reef,  but  the  night  was  so  dark  that  the  shore  was  barely 
discernible  at  a  few  yards'  distance.  Though  the  storm  had  passed 
over,  the  sky  was  still  obscured  by  heavy  black  clouds.  Tuahme 
swam  ashore  and  procured  a  canoe,  which  was  alongside,  and  Tu- 
ani,  the  elder  sister,  with  the  infant,  and  I,  landed  first,  after  which 
the  canoe  returned  for  the  others,  while  we  groped  along  the  beach 
in  search  of  a  dormitory.  The  barking  of  dogs  soon  announced  to 
us  that  a  habitation  of  some  kind  was  at  hand,  and,  stumbling  over 
an  oven  and  two  or  three  logs,  we  reached  the  door. 

After  beating  it  for  a  reasonable  length  of  time,  it  was  opened  by 
a  large  surly-looking  native,  rubbing  his  eyes,  whose  manner  was 
neither  hospitable  nor  inviting.  He  might  have  mistaken  me  for  a 
paterfamilias,  for  appearances  would  favor  such  a  conclusion,  being 
bareheaded  and  barefooted,  with  my  blankets,  and  an  interesting  girl 
beside  me  holding  an  infant.  He  was  a  churlish  fellow,  and  after 
a  few  words  of  dispute  we  left,  to  seek  hospitality  elsewhere,  being 
in  the  midst  of  a  small  hamlet.  The  girl  preferred  awaiting  the 
arrival  of  her  friends,  while  I  pushed  on  until  I  reached  a  large  house 
with  the  door  standing  open.  This  I  entered,  and  after  making 
a  headlong  plunge  over  a  bench,  concluded  it  to  be  a  church. 
Spreading  my  blankets  upon  the  floor,  and  covering  my  head  with 
them  to  avoid  the  musquitoes,  whose  name  was  legion,  I  was  soon 
in  a  sound  slumber. 

Before  morning  I  was  awakened  by  a  native  standing  over  me  with 
a  light,  and  at  his  request,  accompanied  him  to  his  house,  where 
the  Paumotu  family  had  passed  the  night.'  If  the  musquitoes  were 
troublesome  in  the  church,  they  were  frightful  here,  and  their  roam- 
ing alone  was  sufficient  to  banish  sleep. 

In  the  morning  our  host  read  a  chapter  in  the  Tahitian  Bible,  and 
made  a  prayer  ;  after  which  we  decamped  to  the  sea-shore.  The 
maitre  de  cuisine  was  dispatched  forthwith  to  purchase  a  pig,  bread- 


One  of  Nature's  Freaks.  321 

fruit,  and  taro  ;  but,  being  unable  to  procure  the  former,  he  returned 
with  a  brace  of  fowls  instead.  All  were  soon  roasting  in  the  native 
oven,  and  in  due  season  we  made  a  hearty  breakfast. 

Near  this  place  is  a  lofty  peak  more  than  four  thousand  feet  in 
height,  which,  by  a  singular  freak  of  nature,  is  perforated  through 
and  through  not  far  from  its  summit.  The  tradition  connected  with, 
it  is,  that  upon  one  occasion  the  great  god  Oro,  being  angry  with 
the  little  god  Tii,  of  Moorea,  threw  his  spear  at  him,  which  the  lat- 
ter avoided  by  skilful  dodging.  The  weapon  passed  through  the 
mountain,  leaving  a  remarkable  hole  to  record  the  prowess  of  the 
great  god  Oro. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

IN  WHICH  THE  READER  WILL  PROBABLY  MEET  AN  OLD  ACQUAINTANCE. 

THE  wind  being  insufficient  for  getting  under  way,  I  determined 
on  a  short  ramble  through  the  settlement,  which  consisted  of  some 
fifteen  or  twenty  native  houses  scattered  along  the  shore  and  among 
the  trees.  The  road,  as  usual  in  these  out-qf-the-way  places,  was 
an  indifferent  foot-path,  often  obstructed  by  bush  and  branch,  and,  in 
several  places  where  the  land  was  low,  by  water-courses,  where  the 
tide  flows  for  a  considerable  distance  inland. 

Emerging  from  the  grove  to  an  open  space,  the  principal  objects 
were  a  dilapidated  house  and  a  carpenter's  shop  ;  also  under  a  shed 
near  by  was  a  schooner  of  perhaps  forty  tons,  reposing  on  its  stocks 
and  nearly  completed.  Certain  sounds  from  the  house  indicated 
revelry  of  some  description  ;  as  I  passed,  a  head  with  a  very  sig- 
nificant expression  of  countenance  was  protruded,  and,  after  stam- 
mering some  kind  of  an  apology  for  the  interruption,  begged  me  to 
come  in  and  make  myself  at  home.  A  jug  and  bottle  bore  une- 
quivocal testimony  as  to  the  cause  of  the  merriment.  The  occu- 
pants consisted  of  the  before-mentioned  individual,  the  carpenter,  a 
middle-aged  man,  and  his  partner,  who  was  perfectly  sober.  Two 

21 


322  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

young  girls,  in  high  spirits,  together  with  the  carpenter's  (native) 
wife  (minus  the  left  visual  organ),  completed  the  company. 

As  is  usual  on  such  occasions,  the  bottle  was  at  once  brought  for- 
ward, a  civility  I  acknowledged  by  merely  moistening  my  lips  with 
as  pungent  a  compound  as  was  ever  concocted  in  a  still. 

"  I  hope  you'll  excuse  my  house,"  said  the  carpenter.  "  If  those 
I  hired  had  done  as  they  agreed  to,  I  should  have  had  a  comfortable 
place  by  this  time.  But  there's  no  use  talking;  you  can't  get  the 
natives  to  do  anything,  unless  they  are  ainind  to.  They've  got  their 
orange  rum  agoin,  and  are  on  a  bust  now ;  and  the  foreigners  about 
here  don't  seem  to  behave  much  better." 

"  I  say,  carpenter,"  said  our  first  acquaintance,  "  hold  your  temper, 
and  don't  expose  yourself  before  strangers,  for  you  know  your  fail- 
ings." Then,  to  me — "  There's  no  mistake  about  it ;  the  carpenter 
is  pretty  well  to  do,  for  a  person  on  these  islands  ;  but,  as  he  says, 
you  can't  do  anything  with  these  lazy  beggars — they  will  drink. 
For  my  part,  I'm  going  home  as  quick  as  I  can  settle  my  business 
and  arrange  some  little  family  matters."  (Here  he  cast  a  knowing 
look  towards  one  of  the  girls,  whose  deshabille  bespoke  an  indiffer- 
ence to  observation.)  "  I  say,  Matea !  ht'.rc  mail  and  join  your  sweet- 
.heart  in  a  glass — no,  a  bowl  of  Old  Tom."  She,  "  nothing  loth," 
complied  ;  and,  having  drained  it,  twined  her  arms  lovingly  around 
.the  waist  of  her  partner.  "  I'm  a  down-east  Yankee,  bound  home 
to  the  land  of  steady  habits."  These  and  a  few  similar  expressions 
terminated  with  his  whistling  "The  girl  I  left  behind  me." 

The  carpenter  for  some  time  had  been  bustling  about  with  his 
wife,  to  serve  up  a  breakfast,  of  which  he  invited  me  to  partake  ; 
but,  having  made  a  hearty  meal  an  hour  before,  I  necessarily  de- 
clined. However,  three  or  four  hungry  visages  that  for  sonic  time 
.had  been  peering  through  apertures  in  the  thatch,  at  a  signal,  fell  to 
and  commenced  a  sharp  attack  upon  the  portion  prepared  for  them. 
I  \\nuld  here  mention  that,  throughout  the  group,  the  settler's  hospi- 
tality is  freely  proffered  to  a  stranger. 

While  sitting  upon  the  bedstead,  a  thought  suddenly  occurred  to 
me,  xiiir^eslrd  by  my  host's  occupation,  the  island,  ;m<l  his  lonir 
residence  upon  it;  I  casually  inquired  whether  he  had  ever  heard 
of  Omoo. 


A  Convivial  Party.  323 


At  the  sound  of  that  word  our  down-east  friend  started,  as  if 
by  magic,  from  his  tete-a-tete  with  the  native  girl.  "  What ! — 
Omoo !  Ha,  ha  !  I  say,  Chips,  tell  us  all  about  the  work-box  and 
shavings,  old  boy.  Well,  now,  didn't  he  give  it  to  us !  Car- 
penter got  his  share.  I  don't  know  what  the  devil  has  become 
of  Shorty.  Perhaps,  though,  you  are  Herman  Melville,  come  to  spy 
us  out."* 

I  assured  him  to  the  contrary. 

"  Are  you  really  the  person  mentioned  in  that  book  ?"  I  inquired  of 
the  carpenter. 

"  I  am  that ;  and  I  don't  thank  Mr.  Omoo  for  saying  I  was  up  to 

my knees  in  New-Zealand  pine  shavings,  making  a  work-box  ; 

nor  insinuating  that  that  scamp  of  a  Long  Ghost  offered  to  do  my 
courting  for  me." 

"  O,  the  girl !     Did  you  get  her  at  last  ?" 

"  Yes,  indeed  ;  and  a  good  one  she's  proved  to  me." 

I  turned  to  have  a  view  of  the  woman,  who,  by  some  intuitive  per- 
ception, thinking  herself  the  subject  of  our  conversation,  was  looking 
up  with  inquiring  glances.  Whatever  she  might  have  been,  her 
present  appearance  afforded  no  criterion  for  judging.  Add  ten  years 
to  the  existence  of  a  young  Tahitian  woman,  and  time  will  leave  its 
indelible  trace  upon  her  features.  At  my  request  her  husband  'in- 
quired whether  she  recollected  either  of  the  persons  mentioned. 
She  could  call  to  mind  Long  Ghost,  who  lived  upon  Mr.  Bell's 
plantation,  but  all  recollection  of  the  other  had  escaped  her.  Poor 
Mrs.  Bell's  fate  was  tragical ;  the  family  having  removed  to  the  Na- 
vigator Islands,  she  was  drowned  in  one  of  the  streams  of  Upolu. 
Long  Ghost  led  a  free-and-easy  life  for  some  time,  and  afterwards 
took  his  departure.  The  carpenter  was  disposed  to  be  vexed  at  the 
position  he  had  been  made  to  assume,  but  I  soon  convinced  him  that 
although  Mr.  Melville  had  handled  his  subject  familiarly,  he  had  said 
nothing  to  his  disparagement,  and  he  finally  concluded  it  was  "  a 
good  joke  after  all." 

Being  informed  that  the  lake  spoken  of  on  Moorea  was  about  a 
mile  distant,  though  almost  inaccessible,  owing  to  swamp  and  forest, 

*  His  precise  words. 


324  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

I  started  for  it  as  directed,  following  ~the  beach  for  half  a  mile,  then 
striking  into  the  forest.  After  floundering  through  the  bushes, 
creeping  and  climbing,  I  at  length  reached  what  appeared  to  be  an 
interminable  forest  of  fdla  or  pandanus-trees  ;  it  was  as  gloomy  a 
retreat  as  could  be  desired  on  a  sunshiny  day ;  the  long,  drooping 
leaves,  unmoved  by  a  breath  of  air,  formed  a  canopy  impenetrable 
alike  to  light  and  sound.  No  warbler,  not  even  the  ticking  of  an 
insect,  nor  even  the  distant  beating  of  the  surf,  awakened  these  soli- 
tudes ;  the  only  sound  was  the  echo  of  my  footsteps  upon  the  dry 
leaves,  into  which  I  sank  ankle-deep  at  every  step,  pricked  and 
scratched  by  the  short  barbs  with  which  they  are  armed.  Having 
wandered  on  until  sure  the  distance  mentioned  had  been  passed,  and 
being  undesirous  of  continuing  so  useless  a  pilgrimage,  I  reluctantly 
abandoned  the  search ;  intending  to  return  by  a  different  route,  I 
kept  more  to  the  right,  towards  the  mountains.  After  travelling  a 
short  distance,  the  ground  became  swampy  and  the  underwood  as 
thick  as  ever,  but  pushing  through,  I  had  soon  the  gratification  of 
standing  upon  the  marshy  shores  of  the  lake.  It  was  a  small  and 
pretty  sheet  of  water,  but  from  no  single  point  can  a  complete 
view  of  it  be  obtained.  From  where  I  stood,  a  short  distance 
off,  it  curved  to  the  right,  and  the  extreme  portion  was  hidden  by 
the  intervening  forest.  No  sign  of  life  was  visible,  not  even  a  bird 
upon  its  surface  ;  the  low  forest  sweeping  down  to  the  water's  edge, 
seemed  as  solitary  and  deserted  as  that  of  primeval  growth,  while  the 
precipitous  mountains  formed  a  picturesque  background. 

On  my  return,  I  found  Jack  making  preparations  for  departure  ; 
the  cook  had  already  laid  in  a  supply  of  green  cocoanuts  and  bread- 
fruit, and  was  turning  about  on  his  huge  pedestal,  issuing  orders  with 
the  officiousness  of  a  major-domo.  It  was  now  about  one  o'clock 
P.  M.  ;  the  sails  were  set  and  the  Paumotu  family  aboard ;  the  men 
had  already  commenced  weighing  anchor,  when  we  received  a  visit 
from  the  man  at  whose  house  the  family  had  lodged  the  preceding 
night.  The  old  hypocrite  and  extortioner  insisted  that  fifty  cents 
should  be  paid  by  the  Paumotuan  for  himself,  and  the  same  for  each 
member  of  his  family,  as  the  price  of  his  hospitality.  The  poor  man 
looked  blank  enough,  for  it  was  not  in  his  power  to  pay  the  sum  of 
$3.50  at  that  time  ;  but  indignation  soon  got  the  better  of  his 


A  Primitive  Solitude.  325 

modesty,  and  then  commenced  a  series  of  recriminations  and  abuse 
loud  and  long,  in  which  the  woman  joined.  Seeing  there  was  no 
prospect  of  an  amicable  adjustment  of  the  affair,  it  was  compromised 
by  my  paying  a  portion  of  the  sum  demanded,  and  the  woman  in  her 
thankfulness  promised  me  a  fine  pig  when  we  should  arrive  at 
Raiatea.  This  uncharitable  act  is  the  only  instance  of  the  kind  that 
ever  came  under  my  observation  during  my  sojourn  in  the  Pacific  : 
with  all  their  failings,  Polynesians  are  proverbial  for  their  hospi- 
tality, but  when  habits  of  intemperance  are  fastened  upon  them,  the 
old  Tahitian  can  no  longer  tfe  recognized,  and  I  think  the  present 
instance  attributable  to  the  poison  that  is  decimating  them. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

INCIDENTS     BY     THE     WAY. 

THE  weather  was  far  from  being  settled  ;  the  heavy  clouds  creep- 
ing up  the  mountain-side  and  wreathing  around  their  sharp  pinnacles, 
wore  a  threatening  look,  while  the  sun  was  obscured  by  the  thick 
scud  rising  rapidly  from  the  southeast.  I  confess  I  had  some  mis- 
givings at  leaving  a  safe  harbor  to  tempt  the  winds  and  waves,  with 
a  storm  in  perspective,  but  being  anxious  to  reach  the  small  island 
Maui,  our  only  stopping-place  between  this  and  Raiatea,  the  word 
was  passed  and  we  started.  Having  obtained  a  good  offing,  I 
spread  a  mat  and  laid  down  upon  deck — the  boat  creeping  slowly 
along  with  a  light  breeze — but  after  a  short  repose,  was  awakened 
by  the  flapping  of-  sails  and  the  roaring  of  breakers.  Starting  up, 
I  thought  it  night,  the  sky  was  so  darkened  overhead.  We  had 
made  about  eight  miles  progress  from  our  place  of  departure,  and  the 
natives  were  now  sweeping  the  boat  into  a  passage  through  the 
reef;  here  the  prospect  looked  forbidding  enough,  for  the  mountain 
ridges  seemed  shooting  up  from  the  water's  edge,  and  save  a  diminu- 
tive shed,  there  were  no  other  signs  of  habitation.  Not  a  breath  of 


326  Reef-Ravings  in  the  South  Seas. 

air  was  stirring  where  we  were,  but  among  the  mountains  a  tempest 
seemed  raging.  We  succeeded  in  gaining  an  anchorage  before  en- 
countering the  storm  ;  and  were  fortunately  within  hailing  distance 
of  the  house,  where  no  one  but  a  woman  was  visible.  At  our  request, 
she  paddled  off  in  a  canoe,  but  before  reaching  us,  the  rain  began 
to  fall,  so  throwing  the  mats  over  the  main-boom,  we  formed  a 
tolerable  shelter,  beneath  which  we  sat  shivering  for  half  an  hour, 
until  the  storm  had  nearly,  if  not  quite  abated.  In  answer  to 
our  inquiry,  whether  we  could  find  lodgings  at  her  house  for  the 
night,  she  laughingly  replied;  "  He  fdle  ataihuru  me  te  pua"  (her 
house  was  fit  only  for  the  pigs,)  that  it  was  not  her  permanent  resi- 
dence, which  was  around  the  other  side  of  the  island,  and  that  she 
and  her  husband  temporarily  occupied  the  shed  while  clearing  a 
piece  of  land.  However,  she  carried  us  ashore,  with  our  bedding, 
good-naturedly  jumping  out  and  shoving  the  canoe,  when  the  water 
was  not  deep  enough.  The  habitation  was  merely  a  shelter  with- 
out sides,  and  what  was  worse,  there  was  no  house  that  we  could 
reach  that  night,  on  account  of  a  high  rocky  hill  that  obstructed  the 
path  along  the  beach.  But  we  were  determined  to  sleep  ashore, 
and  after  exchanging  "  iauranas"  pushed  ahead,  Tuani,  as  usual, 
keeping  close  to  me  with  the  infant,  and  the  younger  children  bring- 
ing up  the  rear  with  sundry  articles  of  baggage  and  the  relics  of  our 
morning's-  repast. 

After  traversing  the  beach  for  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  we  came 
to  a  couple  of  conical  huts  similar  to  the  wigwams  I  had  seen 
among  the  Digger  Indians  in  California,  and  of  the  same  size  and 
appearance,  with  this  exception,  those  were  constructed  of  bark,  and 
these  of  cocoanut  branches.  Here  we  halted  for  a  consultation  ; 
there  was  yet  half  an  hour's  daylight.  I  was  in  favor  of  moving  on, 
though  my  baggage,  consisting  of  a  pair  of  heavy  blankets,  a  pair 
of  sheets,  two  counterpanes,  and  a  musquito-net,  had  become  some- 
what cumbersome.  The  Paumotuan  thought  a  "  bird  in  hand  worth 
two  in  the  bush,"  and  voted  to  remain,  though  he  could  not 
very  well  see  how  eight  persons  were  to  accommodate  themselves 
in  two  huts,  each  six  feet  in  diameter.  However,  we  arranged  the 
matter  by  depositing  our  luggage  and  sending  the  two  girls  off  to 
make  observations.  They  scampered  lightly  along  the  beach,  and 


'Camping  Out"  327 


soon  disappeared  behind  a  projecting  point.  It  was  not  long  before 
they  returned,  saying  they  could  go  no  farther  on  account  of  the 
mountain.  I  could  not  believe  it,  and  started  off  with  the  native, 
but  as  soon  as  we  had  passed  the  point,  the  sight  was  a  damper : 
a  ridge  of  the  mountain  ran  directly  to  the  sea,  terminating  in 
high,  abrupt  cliffs.  Here  I  picked  up  a  pair  of  shells,  beautiful 
specimens  of  mother-of-pearl.  We  continued  on  to  the  base  of  the 
cliff.  After  entering  the  forest,  we  found  with  difficulty  the  path 
that  led  over  the  hill,  and  climbing  the  rocks  for  some  distance 
among  the  wet  guava  bushes,  and  seeing  no  better  prospect  ahead, 
we  concluded  to  return.  A  few  guavas  hastily  gathered  from  the 
bushes  afforde.4  a  trifling  acquisition  to  our  cheerless  supper. 

We  all  set  to  work  to  render  our  wigwams  as  comfortable  as  possi- 
ble ;  additional  cocoanut  branches  were  piled  on  to  render  them 
weather-proof,  and  trenches  dug  to  carry  off  the  water.  Having  more 
bedding  than  I  required,  I  gave  a  portion  of  it  to  the  mother,  who  sat 
shivering  in  her  wet  garments  with  her  infant.  My  net  completely 
lined  the  hut,  and  together  with  my  remaining  blanket  and  sheets, 
gave  it  quite  a  snug  and  tidy  appearance.  The  next  point  to  be 
settled  was  a  division  of  the  occupants,  which  was  arranged  by  my 
taking  three  of  the  children  into  my  apartment.  Our  shelters  did  their 
duty  admirably,  not  a  drop  of  water  finding  its  way  through  the  thatch, 
while  the  trenches  carried  it  from  our  beds. 

The  morning  broke  gloomily  as  ever,  and  at  an  early  hour  I  packed 
up  and  retraced  my  steps  over  the  hill.  After  a  short  walk  through  the 
wet  guava  bushes,  I  began  to  descend  on  the  opposite  side,  and  at 
intervals,  through  forest  openings,  caught  glimpses  of  a  little  hamlet 
beyond,  bounded  in  the  rear  by  a  fertile  valley.  I  do  not  recollect 
the  name  of  this  place,  which  was  reached  at  seven  o'clock.  At  the 
first  house,  I  found  preparations  for  a  breakfast  going  forward  :  fish 
was  being  rolled  up  in  leaves  preparatory  to  baking,  while  one  of 
the  young  men  scraped  the  green  rind  from  bread-fruit  with  a  cowrie 
shell  prepared  for  that  purpose  ;  another  had  just  been  cutting  the 
tops  from  several  large  heads  of  taro.  On  the  arrival  of  a  stranger, 
the  villagers  gathered  around,  all  eager  to  ask  questions  and  make 
comments.  The  young  ladies  also,  some  of  them  neatly  attired, 
were  not  at  all  backward  in  making  my  travel-stained  appear- 


328  Reef -Roving  s  in  the  South  Seas. 

ance  a  subject  of  derision,  while  one  of  the  old  men  administered 
summary  reproof  to  such  of  the  juveniles  as  were  too  forward  in 
their  demonstrations  of  curiosity.  I  did  not  have  an  opportunity  of 
receiving  an  invitation  to  breakfast  at  this  house,  for  it  appeared  to 
be  conceded  by  all  that  I  should  accompany  a  demure-looking  young 
man,  who  proffered  his  services  to  relieve  me  of  my  bundles,  to 
his  dwelling.  He  was  the  minister  of  the  place,  also  the  school- 
master, and  he  anticipated  my  wants  by  serving  up  a  substantial 
breakfast  of  roast  fowls,  bread-fruit,  taro.  squash,  feis,  and  the  never- 
failing  young  cocoanut,  in  which  I  was  joined  by  the  Paumotu  family, 
who  by  this  time  had  made  their  appearance,  and  who  took  up  their 
abode  with  me. 

After  an  interval  of  two  hours,  the  boat  arrived  and  anchored  at  the 
extreme  end  of  the  settlement.  I  could  now  enjoy  the  luxury  of  a 
bath  and  clean  garments.  Jack  had  determined  to  go  no  farther 
that  day,  arid  as  the  morrow  was  Sunday,  (which  he  could  not  con- 
scientiously violate,)  I  resigned  myself  to  the  necessary  alternative 
of  remainirg  until  Monday.  Time  hangs  heavily  without  com- 
panions in  such  a  place  :  you  saunter  up  and  down  the  beach,  paddle 
about  the  bay  in  a  canoe,  or  go  visiting,  when  you  are  barked  at  by 
dogs,  and  perhaps  stared  at  by  owners.  A  bridge  that  crossed  a 
stream  near  my  hotel  deserves  a  passing  notice,  as  being  a  sample 
of  this  description  of  viaduct  to  be  met  with  throughout  the  group, 
with  the  exception  that  it  was  larger  than  any  other  I  had  seen. 
The  stream  might  have  been  ten  yards  broad,  but  its  depth  I  never 
fathomed ;  the  tide  flowed  in  and  out.  Upright  cocoanut  posts 
were  driven  down  at  convenient  intervals  in  two  parallel  rows, 
and  "  capped"  by  long  slender  trunks  of  the  same  tree  ;  across 
these,  a  few  old  pieces  of  board  for  about  one-third  of  the  distance 
had  been  nailed.  This  addition,  however,  appears  to  be  optional 
with  the  judge  of  the  district,  the  bridge  being  either  improved  or 
neglected  according  to  his  honor's  partiality  for  wading.  The  archi- 
tect must  have  intended  this  as  a  chef  d'wuvre,  for  he  had  given  it  a 
formidable  curve,  but  had  so  far  erred  in  calculation,  that  either  ex- 
tremity was  several  feet  above  the  road  with  which  it  was  intended 
to  communicate.  Steady 'nerves  are  required  to  walk  one  of  these 
round,  elastic  sleepers,  with  a  stream  twelve  feet  below,  and  I  was 


A  Juvenile  Recreation.  329 

at  first  undecide^whether  to  venture  on  my  hands  and  knees,  or  at- 
tempt it  a  la  Jtavel.  Were  a  small  sign  tacked  to  a  neighboring 
purdu,  "  One  dollar  fine  for  crossing  this  bridge  faster  than  a  walk," 
the  requirement  would  certainly  never  be  violated. 

After  dinner,  I  strolled  along  the  well-trodden  path  leading  up  the 
valley,  bounded  on  either  side  by  guava  bushes,  and  sheltered  from 
the  sun's  rays  by  the  thick  foliage  overhead.  I  had  not  gone  far 
before  the  merry  sound  of  juvenile  voices  was  heard  echoing  through 
the  grove,  and  I  soon  discovered  the  source  whence  it  proceeded.  A 
clear,  cool  stream  was  rippling  over  its  stony  bed,  laving  the  green 
branches  that,  bending  low,  often  entwined  with  each  other  from 
opposite  banks,  and  the  whole  o'ercanopied  by  the  dense  foliage  of 
the  mape  and  wide-spreading  purdu.  A  rude  dam  had  been  thrown 
across  at  a  convenient  point,  and  here  in  the  cool  shade  some  dozen 
children  of  both  sexes  were  swimming  and  plashing  about,  some- 
times climbing  the  trees  and  leaping  from  the  branches  into  the 
water.  Though  in  nature's  own,  they  were  in  nowise  abashed  at 
my  presence  ;  they  rather  seemed  emulous  of  excelling  each  other 
in  their  aquatic  sports. 

That  evening  a  singing-school  was  held  at  the  house,  my  host 
first  inquiring  whether  it  would  be  agreeable  to  me.  A  goodly  num- 
ber of  both  sexes,  young  and  old,  were  assembled  with  their  hymn- 
books,  and  all  sat  promiscuously  on  the  mats.  A  prayer  was  first 
offered  up  by  one  of  the  elders,  after  which  the  singing  commenced. 
The  songs  were  all  of  a  sacred  character,  and  the  school  continued 
until  a  late  hour.  In  one  respect,  it  differed  not  widely  from  our  singing- 
schools  at  home,  for  some  of  the  young  ladies  in  the  midst  of  their 
harmony  were  smiling  and  holding  a  sort  of  pantomimic  converse 
with  their  dusky  beaux — at  times  so  openly  as  to  merit  rebuke  from 
their  seniors.  During  the  intervals,  some  of  the  young  men  pro- 
duced slates  and  amused  themselves  with  their  arithmetics,  in 
which  they  did  not  appear  to  be  very  proficient,  for  several  simple 
questions  proposed  to  them,  and  which  I  doubt  not  would  have  been 
readily  solved  by  an  ordinary  Hawaiian  scholar,  seemed  to  give 
them  considerable  trouble. 

Sunday  passed  as  is  usual  in  such  places :  all  went  to  church, 
Bibles  in  hand,  the  men  with  their  best  pare'ws,  and  the  females  with 


330  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

their  unbecoming  bonnets,  which  rob  age  of  the  Aspect  its  due  and 
mock  the  charms  of  grace  and  beauty.  After  service,  all  return  to 
partake  of  a  cold  repast,  for  no  oven  is  permitted  to  smoke  on  the 
Sabbath,  and  the  improvident  must  either  suffer  or  crave  a  neighbor's 
hospitality. 

It  was  nearly  nine  o'clock  on  Monday  before  we  were  under  way; 
with  a  light  breeze,  we  swept  slowly  along  the  channel  inside  the 
reef.  The  water  was  clear  as  crystal,  and  we  could  see  the  finny 
tribe  playing  hide-and-seek  among  the  coral  groves.  Once  a  large 
turtle  was  observed  floating  upon  the  water,  but  on  our  approach  it 
dove,  and  swimming  rapidly,  was  soon  lost  among  the  coral  branches 
shooting  up  in  every  direction.  When  fairly  at  sea,  we  steered 
w.  N.  w.  for  the  little  island  of  Maiau,  which  was  too  far  distant  to 
be  seen.  Fortunately  the  weather  was  fine,  and  our  prospects  for  a 
speedy  and  pleasant  termination  to  our  trip  looked  more  promising 
than  ever,  and  seeking  protection  from  the  sun's  rays  by  the  main- 
sail, we  made  ourselves  as  comfortable  as  our  resources  would  per- 
mit. At  noon,  the  cook's  defection  set  us  all  at  fault,  he  having  neg- 
lected to  lay  in  a  supply  of  provision,  save  a  few  heads  of  taro,  which 
were  nearly  exhausted  that  day ;  owing  to  the  absence  of  cocoa- 
nuts,  we  were  compelled  to  resort  to  a  small  keg  of  water  rendered 
almost  unpalatable  by  the  heat  of  the  sun. 

At  daylight,  the  low  conical  hill  rising  imperceptibly  from  the  water 
was  Maiau,  but  we  were  still  a  long  way  off,  and  two  hours  had  elapsed 
before  the  trees  and  low-lands  fairly  appeared.  We  rah  before 
the  wind  along  the  shore,  where  the  surf  was  dashing  furiously  upon 
a  dazzling  sand-beach,  but  neither  hut  nor  canoe  was  in  sight,  and 
we  made  a  considerable  circuit  before  signs  of  inhabitants  were 
visible.  Around  a  low  point  the  sea  broke  less  violently,  and  hauled 
upon  the  beach  were  three  or  four  canoes,  and  not  far  off,  was  a  na- 
tive fishing.  There  were  no  houses  in  sight,  but  as  soon  as  we  had 
made  our  appearance  off  the  point,  some  half  dozen  natives  emerged 
from  the  bush,  and  launching  their  canoes,  were  soon  alongside. 
They  wore  nothing  but  the  mdro.  The  news  they  brought  was  sad 
for  Tuahine.  He  anticipated  much  pleasure  in  meeting  his  child, 
and  we  had  deviated  from  a  direct  course  for  the  purpose  of  gratify- 
ing him  in  this  respect,  but  to  his  grief  he  learned  it  was  dead. 


An  Inhospitable  Island.  331 

He  went  ashore,  and  I  gave  him  the  means  of  purchasing  fish, 
flesh,  and  fruit  of  every  description.  Not  thinking  it  worth  while  to 
risk  a  drenching  in  the  surf,  I  contented  myself  with  simply  looking 
at  the  uninviting  spot :  a  small  island  without  harbor,  low  and  sandy, 
except  in  the  middle,  or  thereabout,  where  rose  a  wooded  hill. 
Tired  of  laying  "  off  and  on"  for  the  cook's  return,  we  bore  away,  and 
continued  our  circuit  until  we  had  reached  the  leeward  side,  where 
the  wind  headed  us  off  on  the  other  tack.  After  a  few  "  boards," 
Tuahme  made  his  appearance,  accompanied  by  one  person,  each  hold- 
ing a  bundle  of  some  kind.  Coming  close  to  the  edge  of  the  reef, 
and  watching  an  opportunity,  they  plunged  into  the  surf,  and  were 
soon  buffeting  their  way  among  the  rollers,  no  easy  task,  encumbered 
as  they  were  with  bunches  of  what  proved  to  be  green  cocoanuts. 
The  cook  returned  the  money ;  according  to  his  account,  pigs  and 
fowls  had  all  given  up  the  ghost,  and  neither  fruit  nor  vegetables  of 
any  description  were  to  be  obtained.  The  young  cocoanuts  he 
offered  as  a  present.  His  visit  to  his  son's  grave  overcame  his  reso- 
lution, and  he  concluded  to  remain.  More  than  thirty  hours  had 
elapsed  since  I  had  eaten  anything,  save  a  small  allowance  of  taro 
and  cocoanut,  and  feeling  half  famished  by  his  neglecting  to  provide 
for  us  as  he  ought  to  have  done  at  Moorea,  I  was  almost  tempted  to 
throw  his  gift  into  the  sea  and  bid  him  follow ;  but  sympathy  mas- 
tered inclination,  and  after  we  had  all  shaken  hands  with  them  and 
exchanged  iaurdnas,  they  once  more  jumped  overboard  and  struck 
out  for  the  shore. 

It  was  now  about  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  and  with  hungry 
stomachs  we  bade  farewell  to  a  spot  that  denied  us  the  means  of 
existence,  and  shaped  our  course  for  Huahine,  steering  N.  N.  w. 
by  compass.  That  night  the  wind  came  out  ahead,  blowing  in 
squalls,  and  sometimes  sending  a  shower  of  spray  over  us.  Notwith- 
standing, I  preferred  sleeping  on  deck,  where  the  two  sisters,  at  their 
request,  shared  my  blankets. 

Huahine  was  barely  discernible  at  daylight,  but  we  were  heading 
for  it,  with  a  fair  wind.  Having  already  lost  so  much  time  since 
leaving  Tahiti,  I  had  abandoned  all  hope  of  returning  to  take  passage 
in  the  steamer ;  and,  fearful  lest  the  brig  at  Raiatea,  also  bound  for 
Melbourne,  should  take  her  departure  before  my  arrival,  I  concluded 


332  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

to  forego  visiting  Huahme  and  proceed  at  once  to  Raiatea,  which 
was  now  just  making  its  appearance. 

At  four  6'clock  we  were  becalmed  off  the  Opoa  passage,  and  lend- 
ing a  hand,  we  swept  into  the  harbor.  I  thought  at  first  it  might  be 
necessary  to  remain  at  this  rendezvous  of  loyalty  for  the  night,  and 
trespass  upon  the  hospitality  of  old  King  Tamatoa;  but  at  this  junc- 
ture, being  in  mid-channel,  a  favoring  breeze  sprung  up,  hardly 
perceptible  at  first,  and  soon  covering  the  broad  lake  with  ripples, 
we  were  only  sensible  of  our  progress  by  watching  the  ever-varying 
features  of  the  landscape  as  we  glided  along. 

I  had  never  before  seen  so  many  canoes  under  sail  at  Raiatea, 
and  was  at  a  loss  to  account  for  it,  until  bearing  away  for  a  heavily 
ladened  one,  we  hailed,  and  found  they  were  carrying  oranges  for 
the  brig,  from  the  other  side  of  the  island.  To  see  this  tiny  fleet 
sweeping  along  with  its  juicy  freight,  was  truly  picturesque  :  the 
heavy  canoe,  with  its  projecting  bow,  uncouth  outrigger,  and  snowy 
sail,  harmonized  well  with  the  landscape  ;  a  small  schooner  that 
was  beating  its  way  up,  gave  an  animated  effect  to  the  scene.  It  was 
dark  before  we  reached  the  settlement,  which  we  recognized  by  the 
lights  glimmering  along  the  shore  ;  Aid,  "  rounding-to"  under  the 
stern  of  the  brig  that  lay  alongside  of  the  jetty,  we  let  go  our 
anchor.  I  was  almost  famished,  and,  at  the  captain's  invitation, 
jumped  aboard  and  enjoyed  a  hearty  supper. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

THE   CAVE    TAMEHANE—A   FEAST. 

DURING  my  absence,  H.  B.  M.  steamer  Virago  had  arrived  from 
Valparaiso,  bringing  the  British  consul,  B.  Toup  Nicholas,  Esq., 
appointed  for  the  Society  Islands.  To  a  certain  extent  his  position 
is  unenviable  :  to  act  as  arbiter  between  two  contending  factions, 
whose  veneration  for  England  leads  them  to  solicit  advice,  but  whose 
stubborn  resolution  urges  them  on  to  acts  of  open  warfare,  is  a  posi- 


A  Legend.  333 


tion  requiring  at  once  firmness  and  forbearance.  During  the  out- 
breaks that  have  subsequently  occurred,  he  has  not  devoted  himself 
exclusively  to  British  interests,  but  his  offices  have  been  manifestly 
for  all ;  so  far  as  I  have  observed,  he  has  been  indefatigable  in  his 
efforts  to  bring  order  out  of  chaos. 

I  found  the  settlement  as  when  I  left  it,  filled  with  rumors,  but  no 
war.  Eelspring  was  still  tenanted  by  Merton  and  Jasper,  but 
Howard  had  taken  up  his  abode  with  Teo,  to  oblige  the  consul,  as 
our  house  was  said  to  be  the  best  finished  one  in  the  settlement. 
The  British  brig  "  Maid  of  Julpha,"  Captain  R.  N.  Beauvais,  had 
nearly  completed  her  cargo  of  oranges  for  Australia,  and  was  to  sail 
in  a  few  days.  My  companions  had  already  entered  their  names 
as  passengers,  delighted  at  an  opportunity  of  escaping  from  the 
island. 

One  day  I  proposed  to  Howard  a  visit  to  the  Cave  Tamehane,  of 
which  the  Raiateans  boast  so  much  and  know  so  little,  magnifying  a 
trifling  freak  of  nature  into  a  subject  of  awe  and  reverence.  They 
said  there  wras  a  cave  among  the  mountains,  both  dark  and  deep,  no 
one  having  ever  ventured  into  it,  and  which  rumor  gave  out,  was  the 
abode  of  large  gray  dogs  with  marvellously  long  ears  and  tails. 
The  legend  connected  with  the  spot  is,  that  many  years  ago  a  native 
and  his  wife,  while  engaged  fishing  in  a  canoe,  observed  one  day  a 
bird  flying  up  the  mountain-side  with  a  huge  eel  in  its  beak,  and 
which  suddenly  paused  in  its  flight — descended  and  disappeared. 
Thinking  there  was  something  remarkable  in  the  circumstance, 
they  forsook  their  occupation,  and  climbing  up  the  mountain  in  the 
direction  taken  by  the  bird,  discovered  the  cave.  The  bird  was 
never  afterward  seen,  but  his  eelship  lay  coiled  up  at  the  bottom  of 
the  cavern,  looking  to  them  as  formidable  as  the  dragon  of  St. 
George.  Nothing  daunted,  and  supported  by  his  courageous  spouse, 
the  man  boldly  cast  his  line  of  sennit,  with  a  hook  of  mother-of-pearl 
attached,  into  the  deep  gulf  ;  this  was  quickly  seized  by  the  eel, 
who  was  drawn  forth  in  triumph,  but  not  until,  in  their  superhuman 
efforts,  a  foot  of  one  of  them  sank  deep  into  the  black  rock,  where 
its  impress  is  shown  to  wondering  visitors  at  the  present  day. 

Such  was  the  tradition  connected  with  the  locality  we  were  about 
to  visit,  and  thinking  it  more  formidable  than  it  afterwards  proved, 


334  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

we  provided  ourselves  with  thirty  fathoms  of  ropes  and  an  iron  crow- 
bar, for  the  purpose  of  effecting  a  descent. 

Having*  hired  an  islander  to  accompany  us,  we  set  out  on  our 
journey  at  eight  in  the  morning.  The  place  is  accessible  from 
several  points  ;  our  guide  chose  the  path  along  the  shore  to  the  east 
of  the  settlement,  as  being  the  route  most  frequently  taken.  After 
traversing  the  beach  for  half  a  mile,  we  turned  into  the  forest 
on  our  right,  not,  however,  until  we  had  called  at  a  native  house  and 
engaged  the  proprietor  to  have  a  dinner  provided  for  us  on  our  re- 
turn. Our  path  was  twice  interrupted  by  a  stream  in  its  windings, 
and  to  avoid  the  trouble  of  divesting  ourselves  of  shoes  and  socks,  our 
conductor  carried  us  over  on  his  back.  We  soon  reached  one  of  the 
mountain  spurs,  which  we  commenced  climbing,  frequently  on  our 
hands  and  knees,  to  avoid  the  low  branches  that,  shooting  out  hori- 
zontally and  entwining  with  each  other,  seemed  to  hem  us  in  like  the 
meshes  of  a  net.  Until  now  our  path  had  been  in  the  shade,  but 
emerging  from  the  forest  to  the  open  ridge,  the  rays  of  the  sun  were 
almost  overpowering,  for  the  regular  breeze  had  not  yet  sprung  up. 
We  continued  ascending  through  the  coarse  grass  that  reached  to  our 
knees,  and  after  half  an  hour's  plodding,  welcomed  the  wind  that 
swept  in  gusts  over  the  mountain  ridges.  As  if  anticipating  our 
wants,  the  guide  descended  to  a  spring  a  short  distance  below,  and 
brought  up  some  pure  cool  water  in  a  kind  of  basket  hastily  formed 
of  wild  taro  leaves.  The  ocean  on  the  opposite  side  soon  appeared, 
and  from  this  point  it  was  interesting  to  notice  the  course  of  valleys 
and  ridges,  which,  with  some  irregularity,  seemed  radiating  from  a 
common  centre  like  the  spokes  of  a  wheel.  A  very  beautiful  sight 
was  the  barrier  reef,  whose  position  was  indicated  by  a  narrow  fringe 
of  foam  upon  a  sea  of  blue,  as  it  encircled  the  island,  inclosing 
Tahaa  and  a  chain  of  islets  in  its  capacious  fold.  Owing  to  the 
peculiar  texture  or  formation  of  its  corals,  and  the  yellow  sand-beds  of 
zoophytic  branches,  the  quiet  surface  of  the  lagoon  seemed  a  com- 
bination of  mellow  tints  imperceptibly  blending  and  glowing  in  the 
bright  sunlight.  A  span  of  delicate  green  was  bordering  a  broad 
surface  of  milky  whiteness,  and  beyond,  a  light  azure  deepened  to  an 
ultra-marine  ;  thus  revealing  at  a  glance  either  hidden  shoals  or 
tranquil  depths.  On  the  right  were  the  misty  mountains  of 


Mountain  Scenery.  335 


Huahme,  and  in  front,  the  dim  rock  of  Borabora  loomed  in  the  hori- 
zon. At  this  elevation  we  crossed  a  mountain  valley,  if  I  may 
hazard  the  expression,  which  in  some  respects  resembled  those  of 
the  low-lands,  though  far  above  them  ;  it  had  a  slight  inclination  sea- 
ward, and  I  should  judge,  terminated  abruptly,  from  the  appearance 
of  the  broader  valley  beyond.  The  soil  was  good,  and  the  course  of 
a  clear  stream  rippling  over  gentle  declivities  was  indicated  by 
clumps  of  the  drooping  pandanus.  Its  elevation  above  the  sea  might 
not  have  been  more  than  twelve  or  fifteen  hundred  feet,  but  I 
fancied  the  atmosphere  cooler  with  the  breeze  blowing  fresh  from 
the  higher  ridges. 

A  short  distance  beyond,  our  guide  called  our  attention  to  a 
small  shrub  growing  beside  the  path,  with  the  leaves  of  which  the 
natives  make  a  perfume  called  mdnoi,  to  scent  their  oil  for  cos- 
metic uses.  Here  we  first  saw  a  remarkable  flower,  the  simplest 
description  of  which  would  be,  to  carefully  divide  a  blossom  of  Cape 
jessamine  longitudinally,  leaving  half  the  petals  and  pistils  on  one 
side,  and  half  on  the  other,  and  you  will  have  two  of  the  former. 
The  shrub  is  somewhat  lower  than  that  of  the  other,  though  it  re- 
sembles it  in  its  gafceral  appearance.  On  our  return  we  gathered  a 
number  of  these,  together  with  several  other  varieties  of  wild  flowers, 
and,  though  between  the  time  of  gathering  and  our  arrival  at  the  sea- 
shore hardly  an  hour  elapsed,  they  had  withered  and  lost  every  ap- 
pearance of  beauty  and  freshness.  Numerous  attempts  have  been 
made  by  the  missionaries  to  introduce  them  into  their  gardens,  but 
without  success.  The  only  soil  congenial  to  their  habits  appears  to 
be  among  the  elevated  regions,  where  they  are  nourished  by  the 
clouds  and  mountain  breezes. 

After  passing  several  small  streams,  some  of  which  had  worn  deep 
channels  in  the  rock,  we  reached  the  vicinity  of  the  cave.  The  side 
of  the  mountain  seemed  one  mass  of  dark,  porous  rock  (volcanic), 
scantily  covered  with  creeping  vegetation  ;  but  there  was  neither 
tree  nor  bush  within  a  wide  circuit.  Numerous  little  rills  trickling 
over  its  surface,  rendered  the  path  slippery  and  difficult. 

Our  guide  was  the  first  to  announce  the  termination  of  our  jour- 
ney. When  we  joined  him  immediately  after,  my  first  impulse  was 
to  laugh  at  the  trouble  we  had  taken  for  so  trifling  a  reward.  The 


336  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

famous  cave  was  apparently  nothing  more  than  a  deep  fissure  in  the 
rock,  about  thirty  feet  long  by  fifteen  broad,  and  eighty  feet  deep 
by  measurement.  A  small  stream  that  had  worn  a  deep  channel, 
shot  over  the  ledge  at  its  upper  extremity,  and  fell  in  a  shower  upon 
the  loose  shingle  at  the  bottom.  The  most  favorable  point  for  obser- 
vation is  from  the  lower  side,  or  towards  the  sea ;  but  owing  to  its 
depth  and  jutting  points,  a  small  portion  only  of  the  bed  is  dis- 
cernible. 

The  crow-bar  was  thrust  into  a  crevice  of  the  rock,  and  the  rope 
being  long  enough,  was  doubled  around  it,  and  both  parts  thrown  over 
the  mouth  of  the  cavern.  It  was  strong,  but  means  were  taken  to 
prevent  its  chafing  on  the  edge  of  the  rock  ;  and  a  man  on  whom  I 
could  depend  was  stationed  at  the  bar  to  steady  it.  Having  divested 
myself  of  everything  but  a  pair  of  coarse  duck  trowsers,  I  com- 
menced the  descent,  sliding  rapidly  down.  The  atmosphere  grew 
damp  and -chilly,  and  care  was  requisite  to  avoid  jutting  rocks.  Hav- 
ing reached  the  lowest  depth,  I  hailed  to  those  above  to  announce  my 
safe  arrival,  and  immediately  after,  saw  two  heads  peering  cautiously 
over  the  cliff.  The  area  of  the  bottom  was  considerably  greater 
than  that  of  the  mouth,  owing  to  the  receding  of  the  sides.  These 
were  basaltic,  and  for  about  thirty  feet,  consisted  of  massive 
boulders  piled  up  in  curvilinear  rows,  and  partaking  of  the  trappean 
formation. 

At  the  upper  extremity,  and  almost  concealed  by  a  rank  growth 
of  fern,  I  discovered  a  dark  passage  to  depths  beneath.  Howard 
was  requested  to  throw  down  the  oil  bamboo  that  had  been  provided 
for  such  a  contingency,  and  a  fine  torch  was  soon  blazing  ;  with  it  I 
commenced  the  descent. 

No  stronger  evidence  of  the  volcanic  origin  of  the  island  would 
be  required  than  the  appearance  of  this  fissure,  which  was  in  every 
respect  similar  to  those  noticed  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Kilauea, 
with  the  exception  that  the  others  bore  traces  of  more  recent  igneous 
action.  The  cavern  consisted  of  a  number  of  low  irregular  pas- 
sages, branching  out  in  various  directions,  and  inclining  seaward, 
with  a  rapid  and  abrupt  descent.  I  took  the  principal  one,  some- 
times walking,  and  again  crouching  almost  to  the  earth,  until  it  ter- 
minated in  a  chasm  as  dark  as  Erebus,  and  I  was  half  disposed  to 


Sight- Seeing  a  Morbid  Propensity.  337 

watch  for  the  Cerberus  that  guarded  this  gate  to  the  realms  of  Pluto. 
Throwing  down  a  blazing  piece  of  bamboo,  I  found  it  was  but  little 
more  than  ten  feet  deep,  after  which,  there  was  a  continuation  of  the 
gloomy  vault ;  the  descent  was  easy  by  the  irregularities  of  the  sides, 
but  here  the  path  was  obstructed  by  masses  of  rock.  With  no  obr 
ject  in  view  other  than  curiosity,  I  groped  along,  making  another 
descent  similar  to  the  first.  Since  entering  this  subterranean  vault, 
I  had  heard  a  faint  sound  as  of  water  percolating  among  loose  rocks, 
which,  as  I  advanced,  gradually  increased,  until  now  it  seemed  rush- 
ing above  and  around,  while  its  roaring  through  the  narrow  passages 
was  almost  deafening.  The  atmosphere  was  damp  and  chilling,  and 
beads  of  moisture  that  covered  the  dark  rocks  sparkled  in  the  flicker- 
ing torchlight.  The  half-consumed  bamboo  burnt  dimly,  but  the 
bare  thought  of  its  extinguishment  was  sickening,  and  having  already 
gone  too  far  without  a  clue  to  my  exit,  I  turned  to  retrograde.  It 
was  too  late — the  blaze  flashed  up  for  an  instant,  then  disappeared  ; 
I  stared  for  a  moment  at  the  useless  brands  I  grasped,  until  they  too 
smouldered,  and  the  last  lingering  spark  vanished. 

Amid  pitchy  darkness  I  sat  down,  hardly  daring  to  move,  lest  I 
should  stumble  into  some  pit  before  unseen.  I  extended  my  arms 
above  and  around  on  every  side,  but  they  only  met  the  wet  rock ;  it 
seemed  as  if  I  were  immured  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth  in  a  stone 
vault,  and  though  perfectly  collected,  I  could  not  repress  a  sense  of 
suffocation  that  came  over  me.  My  first  impulse  was  to  wait 
patiently  for  assistance,  but  recollecting  there  was  a  full  box  of 
matches  in  my  pocket,  I  took  them  out  and  struck  a  light,  and  with 
the  assistance  of  these,  after  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  groping,  discov- 
ered an  opening  upward.  Although  the  match-light  was  insufficient 
to  show  its  termination,  by  crowding  and  squeezing  I  forced  my  way 
up  until  a  glimmering  light  relieved  the  sepulchral  gloom.  Hence- 
forward my  progress  was  comparatively  easy,  and  after  being  en- 
tombed for  nearly  an  hour,  I  once  more  emerged  from  the  entrance 
of  the  cavern.  The  most  disagreeable  task  was  yet  to  be  per- 
formed— climbing  a  height  of  eighty  feet  by  a  rope  swinging  loosely 

and   after  the   fatigue  undergone  in  the  vaults  below,  I   would 

gladly  have  relinquished  it.  This  was  accomplished,  and  How- 
ard informed  me  that  more  than  an  hour  had  elapsed  since  the  de- 

22 


338  Reef-Ravings  in  the  South. .Seas. 

scent.  Our  guide  inquired  about  the  dogs,  concerning  which  I  had 
an  appalling  account  to  give.  After  partaking  of  the  lunch  we  had 
provided,  and  picking  our  initials  into  the  rock  with  the  crow-bar,  we 
took  our  departure,  not,  however,  until  the  native  had  called  our  at- 
tention to  the  marvellous  footprint,  but  which  we  were  incredulous 
enough  to  believe  had  been  formed  by  the  action  of  water. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  cave,  the  native  pointed  out  the  relics  of  a 
hut  that  had  been  built  by  the  Sandwich  Island  deserters  ;  the  situa- 
tion was  well  chosen  for  observation,  and  a  short  distance  below,  a 
small  stream  of  water  fell  into  a  rocky  basin,  forming  an  admirable 
reservoir  for  bathing. 

We  reached  the  house  where  we  had  engaged  our  dinner  about 
one  o'clock,  and  as  the  oven  had  not  yet  been  "  taken  up,"  we  spread 
a  mat  under  a  shady  bread-fruit  and  reclined  upon  it  to  enjoy  a  short 
nap  before  dinner.  At  two  we  were  awakened,  and  in  the  house 
found  our  repast  spread  out  upon  leaves.  It  consisted  of  two  nicely 
roasted  fowls,  emitting  a  savory  steam,  and  done  to  a  turn ;  spheres 
of  bread-fruit,  with  the  burnt  rind  peeled  off,  looking  rich  and  mealy, 
with  the  faintest  possible  shade  of  yellow,  were  served  up  on  plan- 
tain leaves.  The  taro  was  not  forgotten,  and  a  pile  of  baked y*m, 
that  seemed  anything  but  inviting  externally,  required  but  the  removal 
of  the  skin  to  show  a  rich  yellow  pulp  both  sweet  and  nourishing. 
A  bunch  of  ripe  China  bananas  (a  favorite  species)  made  a  tempt- 
ing display ;  and  a  kind  of  jelly  pudding,  composed  of  arrow-root 
and  grated  cocoanut,  mixed  up  with  the  milk  and  baked,  was  served  in 
a  small  gourd.  The  never-failing  miti,  made  of  the  expressed  milk 
of  the  old  cocoanut  and  sea-water,  and  white  as  the  nourishing  bev- 
erage itself,  was  brought  to  us  in  two  plates.  A  couple  of  young 
cocoanuts,  fresh  from  the  tree  and  divested  of  their  husks,  were  both 
perforated  sufficiently  to  show  the  clear,  cool  liquid  within,  looking  at 
that  moment  more  inviting  than  goblets  of  ambrosial  nectar. 

We  ate  in  primitive  style,  sitting  upon  the  ground  and  using  our 
fingers,  Howard  facetiously  remarking  that  they  were  "  made  before 
forks." 

Having  appropriated  half  of  one  of  the  fowls,  with  a  sheath- 
knife  he  cut  two  or  three  thick  slices  of  bread-fruit,  his  eyes  mean- 
while resting  affectionately  on  the  favorite  feis. 


A  Stringent  "  Dog- Law"  Needed.  339 

An  exclamation  of  "Ehoa  /"  from  the  door-way,  startled  us  from  our 
epicurean  reveries,  and  in  the  "  iaurdna"  that  followed,  Howard 
recognized  an  acquaintance  who,  with  a  profusion  of  flowers  in  her 
hair,  came  smilingly  towards  him.  Being  something  of  a  gallant,  he 
arose  to  escort  his  fair  visitor  to  a  seat  beside  him ;  but,  alas  for 
his  courtesy  !  Two  or  three  lean,  famished-looking  dogs  had  been 
sitting  upon  their  haunches  and  staring  at  the  viands  with  glazed 
eyes  and  moistened  lips,  and  one  of  them,  thinking  the  moment  op- 
portune, like  the  prowling  cur  in  the  "  Distressed  Poet"  of  Hogarth, 
deliberately  seized  Howard's  selection,  and  disappeared  through  a 
small  aperture  in  the  thatch. 

A  general  hue-and-cry  announced  the  theft.  Howard  compre- 
hended in  a  moment,  and,  forgetting  alike  politeness  and  dinner, 
started  off  in  pursuit  of  the  robber,  not  with  a  hope  of  recovering 
stolen  meat,  but  to  punish  a  species  of  quadruped  to  which  he  bore 
a  strong  antipathy.  His  only  satisfaction  was  a  chase  through  the 
guavas,  and  pelting  the  animal  with  bits  of  coral  and  cocoanut  husks. 

Nothing  further  occurred  to  interrupt  our  meal.  After  we  had 
finished,  a  smoking  addition  of  baked  fruit  was  brought  in,  upon 
which  old  and  young  commenced  a  simultaneous  attack.  I  noticed 
an  acquisition  to  our  company  of  three  or  four  old  women,  who  made 
their  appearance  just  before  dinner,  and  who  as  a  class  are  happily 
gifted  with  a  strong  scent.  They  had  probably  some  important 
communication  to  disclose,  and  "  accidentally  happened  in"  as  the 
oven  was  about  being  opened. 

I  would  again  beg  leave  of  absence  from  the  reader,  while  cruising 
among  islands  and  lands  to  the  westward,  promising  that  our  next 
interview  shall  be  brief  and  final. 


340  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 

"  A    HUNDRED  SWORDS  IN  THE  AIR." 

IT  was  early  dawn  in  July,  '53,  when  we  were  dashing  along 
before  the  strong  trade-winds,  for  the  Ohelau  passage,  to  the  settle- 
ment of  Raiatea.  It  was  too  dark  to  distinguish  objects  upon  the 
shore,  and  our  only  landmarks  were  the  outline  of  the  mountains, 
more  especially  the  conspicuous  cone  whose  apex  seemed  to  have 
been  broken  off.  Through  the  gloom  we  could  distinguish  an  appa- 
rently unbroken  line  of  foaming  breakers,  whose  roaring  as  we 
bounded  towards  them  was  appalling.  But  Captain  Beauvais  was 
an  experienced  navigator,  and  had  calculated  his  distance  and  posi- 
tion to  a  nicety ;  instead  of  waiting  for  daylight  to  show  him  the 
narrow  passage,  he  kept  boldly  on,  trusting  to  find  it  by  close  prox- 
imity. I  cannot  refrain  from  a  slight  tribute  to  his  merits  as  a  sea- 
man— one  of  the  real  English  stamp,  nurtured  among  the  typhoons 
of  the  China  seas.  I  have  seen  him  in  instances  of  great  emer- 
gency display  a  commendable  coolness  ;  and  have  stood  by  him  at 
the  wheel  when  a  tempest  of  breakers,  rolling  in  like  avalanches, 
threatened  every  moment  to  ingulf  us  ;  deserted  by  his  crew,  who 
had  fled  to  the  rigging,  and  by  his  mate,  who  was  upon  his  knees  at 
paternosters,  (a  true  incident ;)  and  in  this,  as  in  every  other  instance, 
his  conduct  was  such  as  would  characterize  a  man  of  judgment  and 
decision. 

We  soon  saw  the  two  islets  that  bounded  the  passage,  and  gliding 
rapidly  through,  were  in  still  water,  sweeping  forward  with  undimin- 
ished  speed.  From  behind  a  point  covered  with  cocoanut-trees  that 
intercepted  our  view  of  the  settlement,  a  well-manned  whale-boat  shot 
out  and  pulled  to  wards  us,  and  this  was  the  only  sign  of  animation  ob- 
servable. Its  occupants  shouted  to  us  as  we  passed  ;  without  altering 
our  course  for  them,  we  continued  on  towards  the  settlement.  After 
rounding  the  point,  we  saw  the  white  house  of  Messrs.  Jordan  and 
Lassiter  ;  and  immediately  beyond,  an  embankment  thrown  up,  extend- 
ing from  the  shore  to  the  mountain.  Near  by  was  the  flagstaff  and 


A  British  Consul  between  two  Fires.  341 

flag  of  King  Tamatoa.  About  half  a  mile  distant  another  mtrench- 
ment,  similar  to  the  former,  had  been  raised  immediately  adjoining 
the  premises  of  the  British  consul.  Here  we  dropped  anchor,  and 
were  soon  after  boarded  by  the  boat,  which  was  headed  by  the 
native  pilot  of  the  king,  who  had  come  to  demand  the  harbor  dues. 
From  him  we  learned  that  the  war  had  just  been  renewed,  and  that 
a  decisive  battle  was  anticipated.  Our  captain  was  a  strong  Liberal, 
and  withheld  the  tribute  until  the  result  of  the  battle  should  be  as- 
certained. Presently,  a  boat  was  seen  approaching  from  Tamare's 
camp,  upon  Avhich  the  royal  barge  immediately  took  its  departure. 
Approaching  us,  we  found  it  to  be  commanded  by  our  old  friend 
Dr.  Doan,  with  a  stout  crew,  their  muskets  and  spears  being  care- 
fully laid  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  for  it  was  their  intention  to 
capture  the  other,  which  had  given  them  the  slip.  From  the 
doctor  we  learned  that  affairs  were  approaching  a  crisis  ;  that  old 
Tamatoa,  determined  to  carry  the  war  into  Africa,  had  come 
down  from  Opoa,  the  stronghold  of  royalty,  and  fortified  himself 
in  the  eastern  portion  of  the  settlement ;  upon  which  Tamare  had 
immediately  checkmated  him  in  an  opposite  direction.  Among 
the  parties  occupying  the  intermediate  space,  natives  and  foreigners, 
a  general  stampede  had  taken  place.  The  British  consul  alone  re- 
mained at  his  post.  Tamare's  breastwork  had  been  thrown  up 
within  fifteen  yards  of  his  house,  formed  of  earth  and  cocoanut  logs 
of  sufficient  strength  to  resist  a  cannon-ball ;  and,  owing  to  the  close 
proximity  of  the  consulate,  his  guns  could  be  trained  to  avoid  it ; 
but,  on  the  other  hand,  it  would  be  a  conspicuous  object  for  the 
royal  cannon.  Accordingly,  he  had  been  notified  by  the  belligerent 
parties  that,  as  hostilities  were  about  to  commence,  his  safety  would 
be  endangered  by  occupying  his  present  exposed  situation,  and  that 
it  would  be  necessary  for  him  to  remove  as  others  had  done,  for  they 
would  not  be  responsible  for  the  consequences.  In  reply,  Mr. 
Nicholas  gave  the  deputation  to  understand  that  he  should  continue 
to  occupy  the  premises  'assigned  him,  and  that  for  any  injury  he 
might,  sustain  his  government  would  hold  them  responsible.  The 
propriety  of  his  remarks  somewhat  staggered  them,  and  before  active 
hostilities  were  commenced,  he  prevailed  upon  both  parties  to  send  a 
deputation  to  his  office  to  conclude  peace,  or,  at  least,  negotiate  an 


342  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

armistice,  as  in  the  present  state  of  affairs  their  orange  trade  would 
be  cut  off,  for  vessels  would  be  forced  to  depart  without  their  car- 
goes. These  deputies  were  to  meet  on  the  day  of  our  arrival. 

After  breakfast,  we  accompanied  the  doctor  in  our  boat  to  the 
camp  of  Tamare.  It  grounded  upon  the  coral,  but  some  stout  natives 
waded  in  and  carried  us  ashore  on  their  shoulders.  Tamare  him- 
self was  surrounded  by  a  group  of  warriors,  haranguing  them  most 
eloquently ;  temporary  sheds  had  been  constructed,  and  beneath 
them  were  stout,  athletic  men  reposing  upon  the  mats  in  inglorious 
ease,  while  around  them  was  scattered  the  offensive  panoply  of  war. 
Muskets  and  spears  were  suspended  from  the  rafters  or  lying  upon 
the  ground,  and  occasionally  a  young  man  might  be  seen  brandish- 
ing a  cutlass.  In  the  camp  were  also  the  wives  and  sisters  of  the 
warriors  ;  and  I  saw  a  stout  woman  patrolling  with  a  musket  on  each 
shoulder.  The  girls,  many  of  them,  were  arrayed  in  their  best  ap- 
parel ;  some  of  them  wore  beautiful  wreaths  fashioned  from  the  deli- 
cate fibre  of  the  arrow-root  into  rosettes  that  completely  encircled  the 
head,  and  from  the  left  side  a  thick  plume,  formed  of  the  tender 
sprout  of  the  cocoanut,  of  a  delicate  straw  color,  floated  gracefully 
in  the  breeze.  They  all  recognized,  and  gave  us  a  cordial  welcome, 
as  did  also  Tamare,  when  he  had  finished  his  speech. 

After  paying  our  respects  to  the  consul,  and  receiving  confirma- 
tion of  what  the  doctor  had  communicated,  we  returned  to  the  camp. 
The  Broom  Road,  where  we  had  strolled  so  often,  was  completely  bar- 
ricaded, the  only  passage  through  the  embankment  being  a  narrow  em- 
brasure, obstructed  by  a  mounted  cannon,  with  a  sentry  on  either  side. 
Messrs.  Jordan  and  Lassiter  were  in  trouble ;  they  had  been  com- 
pelled to  abandon  their  store  and  residence  to  occupy  a  larger  house 
recently  purchased  by  the  latter,  within  the  limits  of  Tamare's 
camp.  Their  shop  had  proved  valuable  to  the  Royalists,  for  a  stout 
foreigner,  who  had  recently  come  upon  the  island,  had  appropriated 
the  loose  iron  for  the  manufacture  of  slugs,  and  had  also  remounted 
such  of  the  guns  as  required  it.  Independent  of  this,  Lassiter  had 
his  domestic  afflictions  ;  the  family  of  Mrs.  Lassiter,  it  appears,  were 
adherents  of  the  king,  and  as  might  be  supposed,  her  sympathies 
were  with  the  Royalists,  and  as  she  was  compelled  to  reside  in  the 
camp  with  her  husband,  she  had  commenced  a  regular  system  of 


Officiousness  Inherent  in  Females.  343 

espionage.  This  being  detected,  she  was  prevented  egress  from  the 
fort,  and  held  as  a  prisoner  on  parole ;  from  last  accounts,  she 
was  leading  her  spouse  an  interesting  life.  A  Jamaica  negro,  who 
had  been  "  beach-combing"  among  the  islands,  a  mischief-making 
fellow,  was  similarly  situated,  and  instead  of  being  shot,  he  was 
suffered  to  roam  about  the  camp  unmolested,  Tamare  having 
ordered  him  to  be  fired  upon  the  moment  he  attempted  to  escape. 
The  doctor  called  my  attention  to  some  herculean  fellows  from 
Tahaa,  (this  island  having  espoused  the  cause  of  the  chief ;)  they 
had  come  over  to  fight,  and  were  determined,  too,  before  returning 
home. 

About  eleven  o'clock,  both  deputations  waited  upon  the  consul, 
who  was  attended  by  the  resident  missionary,  Mr.  Chisholm,  but  they 
were  only  able  to  negotiate  an  armistice  of  ten  days,  and  that  each 
party  should  withdraw  half  a  mile  beyond  the  opposite  extremes  of  the 
settlement.  When  this  was  announced  by  the  messengers  on  their 
return  to  Tamare's  camp,  considerable  indignation  was  manifested 
•  by  some  of  those  assembled  to  hear  it  beneath  a  large  open  shed, 
and  I  noticed  that  the  countenance  of  Tamare  himself  underwent 
a  considerable  elongation,  while  the  Tahaa  men  expressed  their 
disappointment  in  unmeasured  terms.  All  the  spare  room  was 
occupied  by  females,  and  to  judge  from  the  interest  they  appeared  to 
manifest  in  the  negotiations  that  were  pending,  one  would  suppose 
himself  attending  a  woman's  rights  convention.  At  'Raiatea,  as  is 
often  the  case  at  home,  females  make  themselves  very  officious 
concerning  the  affairs  of  their  husbands ;  it  was  formerly  their 
custom  to  accompany  them  to  battle,  something  after  the  manner  of 
esquires,  to  supply  them  with  new  weapons  when  required,  or  with 
refreshment  when  wounded  or  fatigued ;  they  are  occasionally  ser- 
viceable in  making  cartridges,  and  that  day  I  saw  the  wife  of 
Tamare,  after  her  return  from  the  vessel,  with  an  old  log-book 
under  her  arm,  which,  she  told  me,  she  intended  to  devote  to  that 
purpose.  • 

The  wind  blew  strongly  across  the  lagoon,  and  about  noon  we 
saw  a  white  speck  beneath  the  mountains  of  Tahaa,  which  the  na- 
tives said  was  Teo's  boat.  He  carried  an  enormous  sail,  and 
beat  up  to  the  settlement  in  a  very  short  time.  We  were  invited 


344  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

over  to  his  house,  where  a  lunch  was  served  up  for  us.  He  said  he 
expected  a  siege,  and  was  prepared  for  it ;  and  so  appearances  would 
indicate,  for  he  had  a  profusion  of  swine  and  vegetables  on  his 
premises.  During  the  afternoon,  while  passing  the  house  of  Ta- 
mare,  his  wife  came  out  and  invited  me  in,  insisting  that  I  should 
remain  until  she  could  have  a  dinner  cooked,  which  was  served  up 
by  her  daughter,  whose  manifestations  of  sympathy  during  my 
illness  had  not  been  forgotten.  On  this  visit  to  Raiatea,  I  found  a 
young  New-Yorker,  whom  I  had  taken  from  the  Bonin  Islands,  off 
Japan,  more  than  a  year  previous,  while  on  a  voyage  from  Hong 
Kong  to  San  Francisco.  Instead  of  returning,  as  intended,  he  had 
visited  this  island  in  a  trading  vessel,  became  enamored  of  one  of 
its  beauties,  married,  and  "  settled  down." 

Captain  Beauvais  found  it  impossible  to  procure  a  cargo  here, 
owing  to  existing  hostilities  ;  both  parties  were  fearful  of  weakening 
their  respective  camps  by  disbanding  to  pluck  oranges,  and  in  conse- 
quence he  was  compelled  to  proceed  to  Borabora,  which  we  did  after 
remaining  here  two  days,  taking  Doctor  Doan  with  us,  to  act  as 
trading  master.  My  last  reminiscences  of  Raiatea  are  associated 
with  recollections  of  Tamare's  wife,  who  came  to  bid  me  good-bye  as 
I  was  stepping  into  the  boat,  accompanied  by  a  boy  leading  a  nice 
fat  pig,  which  she  bestowed  as  a  testimonial  of  friendship. 


CHAPTER    XXV. 

WHICH   TREATS    ON  DOMESTIC   ECONOMY. 

WITH  a  fair  wind  we  weighed  anchor  and  stood  across  the  har- 
bor towards  Tahaa,  intending  to  pass  out  by  the  passage  through  the 
reef  on  the  western  side  of  that  island,  a  distance  of  nearly  ten 
miles  from  the  settlement.  After  reaching  the  southern  point,  the 
channel  lay  close  along  the  shore,  which  was  exceedingly  irregular, 
and  sparsely  inhabited.  Near  the  head  of  one  of  its  deep  bays,  the 
doctor  pointed  out  a  small  hamlet,  where  he  said  he  had  an  adopted 


Meeting  Old  Acquaintances.  345 

mother,  or  rather,  he  had  been  adopted  as  a  son  by  an  old  woman, 
which  entitled  her  and  her  family  to  the  privilege"  of  crossing  over 
to  the  settlement  and  making 'his  residence  a  home;  besides  appro- 
priating to  herself  whatever  she  thought  needful,  as  a  manifestation 
of  maternal  affection,  inviting  in  return  filial  love  by  conceding  like 
privileges. 

We  reached  our  anchorage  during  the  afternoon,  opposite  the 
church.  After  landing  and  visiting  old  acquaintances,  a  commodious 
house  was  hired  by  the  doctor,  in  which  he  installed  himself  and 
family,  together  with  the  trade  provided  for  purchasing  cargo.  Dur- 
ing our  absence,  Mr.  Krause  had  formally  renounced  his  allopathic 
principles  for  those  of  hydropathy,  and  on  one  corner  of  the  veran- 
dah had  erected  a  neat  bathing-house,  where  he  was  prepared  to 
administer  the  prescriptions  of  Priessnitz  in  every  form,  from  the 
douche  to  the  tepid  sitz-bath. 

To  my  gratification,  I  learned  that  both  Monsieur  Auguste  and 
Captain  Flores  were  here  from  Raiatea — a  circumstance  that  in  it- 
self would  banish  apprehensions  of  ennui.  Their  little  trading 
schooner  was  anchored  off  the  southern  portion  of  the  settlement, 
where  they  were  temporarily  located  in  a  native  domicil.  I  went 
down  to  pay  them  a  visit,  and  discovered  the  premises  by  inquiring 
of  the  natives  for  the  "  fale  Frdne"  (French  house.)  Like  most 
others  in  the  settlement,  it  was  almost  hidden  by  the  shade  of  fruit- 
trees,  the  whole  inclosed  by  a  scraggy  fence  of  purau  and  surmounted 
by  a  stile. 

Both  gave  me  a  cordial  reception,  and  the  captain  ordered  an  at- 
tendant to  place  glasses  upon  the  table,  while  he  drew  a  cork  to 
cement  acquaintance.  He  had  brought  his  native  wife  with  him, 
who,  like  her  sex  in  Hawaii,  had  no  lack  of  relatives  and  acquaint- 
ances. These  thronged  to  offer  congratulations  to  the  vahme  no 
Raiatea,  (woman  of  Raiatea.)  The  Hawaiians  are  a  migratory  race, 
roving  from  island  to  island ;  for,  should  a  coaster  drop  anchor  at 
either  Hawaii  or  Kauai,  the  extremes  of  the  group,  there  would  be 
a  general  mustering  of  dogs,  calabashes,  and  dried  fish,  by  perhaps 
a  dozen  of  them,  who  would  be  simultaneously  reminded  that  they 
had  some  pressing  business  on  hand  at  either  Lahaina  or  Honolulu. 
The  Tahitians,  on  the  contrary,  are  less  aspiring  or  versatile  in  their 


346  Reef -Roving  s  in  the  South  Seas.' 

dispositions  ;  from  age  to  infancy,  there  are  many  who  would  be  con- 
tent to  pass  their  dreamy  round  of  existence  reposing  beneath  boughs 
that  shed  perennial  harvests,  and  would  "  crave  alliance  with  no 
wider  scenes"  than  the  tranquil  groves  of  their  island-home,  or  the 
boundless  ocean  that  limits  their  ambition. 

To  return  to  our  entertainers  :  Monsieur  Auguste  had  brought 
with  him  a  small  hand-organ,  of  Paris  manufacture,  that  executed 
exclusively  the  airs  in  vogue  during  the  days  of  Louis  Quatorze.  It 
was  ornamented  with  a  graceful  little  automaton,  attired  in  the  cos- 
tume of  the  most  elegant  court  of  the  seventeenth  century.  He  was 
seated  upon  an  antique  specimen  of  furniture,  supporting  in  his 

ruffled  hands  a  mandolin ;  and  when,  at  my  request,  Mrs.  F 

commenced  turning  the  crank,  he  fingered  his  instrument  as  lightly, 
and  bowed  to  her  perhaps  as  gracefully,  as  the  original  would  have 
done  to  Madame  de  Maintenon.  The  airs  were  simple,  and  their 
gentler  modulations  would  be  easily  retained  by  a  musical  ear.  The 
young  ladies  present  looked  on  admiringly ;  some  of  them,  with  a 
delicate  perception  of  harmony,  chimed  in  with  the  air,  while  others 
evinced  their  appreciation  of  foreign  courtesy  or  politeness  by  ex- 
clamations of  "Mea  nehenehe  !"  (superb.) 

Not  wishing  to  trespass  too  frequently  on  the  hospitality  of  Mr. 

Krause,  I  took  up  my  abode  with  an  old  native  named 'Tane, 

whose  habitation  was  pleasantly  located  near  the  shore,  about  the 
centre  of  the  settlement.  The  family  consisted  of  himself,  wife, 
a  married  daughter  with  her  husband  and  infant,  and  another  daugh- 
ter fourteen  or  fifteen  years  of  age,  who  was,  without  exception,  the 
belle  of  Borabora.  There  were  also  a  couple  of  young  urchins,  but 
whether  his  children  or  not  I  never  learned.  Tane  bore  no  resem- 
blance to  the  fat,  sleek-looking  specimens  so  frequently  met  with. 
On  the  contrary,  he  was  one  of  the  lank  sort,  with  a  famished-looking 
visage,  lowering  brows,  and  a  net-work  of  wrinkles.  He  sported  a 
chip  hat  and  a  fancy  calico  shirt,  rakishly  adjusted  over  a  navy- 
blue  pareu,  bestudded  with  white  figures  which  at  a  short  distance 
bore  a  strong  resemblance  to  diminutive  Cupids.  To  this  latter  gar- 
ment he  gave  a  peculiar  hitch,  so  that  it  hung  awkwardly  around  his 
ankles.  Had  she  worn  one,  I  should  fancy  that  he  had  borrowed 
one  of  Mrs.  Tane's  undergarments.  He  had  a  hobbling  gait,  and 


A  Novel  Attempt  at  Suicide.  347 

upon  inquiry  I  learned  tliat  it  had  been  occasioned  by  his  indiscre- 
tion. Many  years  before,  while  in  a  state  of  intoxication,  he  had 
killed  his  former  wife  by  repeated  blows.  When  thoroughly  sober 
he  contemplated  with  horror  the  deed  he  had  perpetrated,  and, 
meditating  suicide,  climbed  a  lofty  cocoanut-tree,  and  threw  himself 
from  its  branches.  The  result  of  the  collision  was  a  temporary 
suspension  of  the  intellectual  faculties,  a  dislocation,  a  number  of 
severe  bruises,  and  the  subsequent  conviction  that  banishment  to  an 
uninhabited  island  was  preferable  to  a  duplicate  crime.  After  turn- 
ing hermit  for  a  few  years,  his  majesty  King  Tapoa  was  graciously 
pleased  to  extend  to  the  culprit  his  royal  clemency,  and  he  once 
more  returned  to  resume  his  position  in  society. 

He  always  moved  about  with  a  deacon-like  solemnity,  and  to  turn 
from  him  to  his  blooming  daughters,  one  would  almost  feel  unchari- 
table enough  to  question  their  paternity.  I  have  sometimes  detected 
him  staring  gloomily  at  me,  when  he  would  inquire  in  an  impressive 
manner,  "  Tdmate !  hed  ton  mando  ?  Hinadro  oe  e  dmu  te  md .?" 
(Thomas  !  what  is  your  thought  ?  Do  you  want  anything  to 
eat?) 

Mrs.  Tane,  from  a  casual  observation,  was  an  ornament  to  her 
sex.  As  a  laundress,  I  can  testify  to  her  scrupulous  neatness. 
Whether  or  not  according  to  her  standard  of  human  growth  and  de- 
cline, she  recognized  in  my  physical  contour  evidences  of  antiquity, 
I  fancied  that  she  craved  at  least  a  share  of  the  attention  I  en- 
deavored to  bestow  upon  the  daughter.  It  is  frequently  the  case 
that  these  South  Sea  Hesperides  are  guarded  by  a  phalanx  of 
duennas. 

The  elder  daughter  had  recently  become  a  mother,  and  mani- 
fested all  a  mother's  fondness  for  her  offspring.  She  seemed  never 
to  weary  with  nursing  the  dusky  little  innocent,  and  chanting  lullabies 
to  soothe  its  slumber.  She  had  prepared  a  neat  little  bed  for  it  upon 
the  mats,  over  which  was  suspended  a  tiny  musquito-net  of  white 
gauze ;  this  was  sometimes  removed,  that  she  might  have  the 
pleasure  of  bending  over  it  to  watch  its  gentle  respirations,  while 
fanning  it  with  a  bread-fruit  leaf.  These  manifestations  of  mater- 
nal fondness  were  mutually  shared  between  mother,  sister,  and 
husband. 


348  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

The  conduct  of  the  latter  was  enough  to  make  one  nervous.  He 
was  a  handsome,  athletic  young  fellow,  and  sported  a  slight  mous- 
tache, but  day  after  day  he  would  sit  cross-legged  among  the 
women,  tending  baby,  and  making  himself  generally  useful.  His 
only  garment  was  a  pareu  thrown  over  his  shoulders  for  modesty's 
sake ;  during  the  entire  period  of  my  sojourn  in  the  family,  I  do  not 
recollect  having  ever  seen  him  beyond  the  premises.  He  was  evi- 
dently in  good  health,  for  his  appetite  would  have  been  a  serious 
consideration  in  the  event  of  a  dearth  of  provision.  Out  of  all 
patience,  I  frequently  tried  to  shame  him  from  his  hen-pecked  occu* 
pation,  but  his  only  reply  would  be  an  innocent  laugh.  What  old 
Tane's  sentiments  were  respecting  his  aspiring  son-in-law,  I  never 
ventured  to  inquire ;  although  he  sometimes  looked  sulkily  at  him, 
he  apparently  took  it  as  a  "  matter  of  course." 

But  the  pride  of  the  household  was  the  younger  daughter,  whom 
I  shall  call  Matea.  A  more  graceful  child  of  the  ocean  it  would 
have  been  difficult  to  find  in  the  Pacific.  Possessing  in  no  or- 
dinary degree  the  peculiar  beauty  of  these  islanders,  (which  be- 
comes a  sickly  exotic  when  removed  from  parent  soil,)  she  was 
destitute  of  the  levity  of  manner  that  characterizes  too  many  of 
these  syrens  ;  at  the  time,  I  thought  the  principal  defect  in  disposi- 
tion was  her  reservedness  in  social  intercourse. 

Like  most  other  natives,  she  was  an  early  riser,  and  after  cooing 
a  while  with  the  baby,  she  would  step  out  to  perform  her  ablu- 
tions at  a  clear  spring  in  the  rear  of  the  house  ;  then  she  would 
come  in,  seat  herself  upon  the  mats,  and  placing  a  little  Dutch  look- 
ing-glass upon  a  pillow  before  her,  comb  back  her  wavy  tresses, 
afterwards  anointing  them  with  the  sweet-scented  manoe  and  gath- 
ering them  tastefully  into  a  knot  behind.  When  making  an  elabo- 
rate toilet,  she  would  array  herself  in  a  white  robe,  with  a  diminu- 
tive collar  turned  down  at  the  neck,  and  display  the  graceful  contour 
of  her  figure  by  girding  a  fancy  pareu  around  her  waist ;  then,  with 
the  snowy  flowers  of  the  Cape  jessamine  in  her  hair,  and  adjusted  like 
little  cornucopias  in  the  lobes  of  her  ears,  she  was  prepared  to  make 
and  receive  her  morning  calls.  She  never  wore  beads  ;  while  the 
Hawaiian  girls  are  passionately  fond  of  this  description  of  ornament, 
it  is  almost  entirely  discarded  by  Tahitian  belles.  Matea  was  the 


A  Practical  Landlord.  349 

fairest  of  a  merry  group  of  improvisatrices  that  assembled  around  the 
"  watering-place"  every  evening,  and  more  than  one  stranger  were 
victims  of  their  sarcastic  pleasantry. 

Having  arranged  matters  with  Tane,  I  sent  off  to  the  brig  the 
same  evening  for  my  curtains  and  bedding.  Nothing  could  exceed 
old  Time's  officiousness ;  he  cuffed  one  of  the  boys  and  slapped  the 
other  for  doing  as  he  had  directed.  The  office  of  chambermaid 
was  admirably  performed  by  him,  for  the  sheets  and  spread  were 
adjusted  without  a  wrinkle  ;  the  net  was  suspended  over  the  bed  by 
attaching  strips  of  bark  to  the  corners  and  securing  them  to  the 
rafters.  The  house  was  small,  having  a  single  door  on  the  seaward 
side ;  the  bed,  a  chest,  table  and  chair  monopolized  nearly  one-half 
of  it ;  the  family,  with  their  chests  of  apparel,  chattels,  &c.,  accom- 
modated themselves  in  the  other  portion.  The  apartment  was  inno- 
cent of  both  curtains  and  partition ;  through  the  interstices  of  the 
parcu  sides  could  be  witnessed  all  that  was  passing  without,  while 
the  sea-breeze  that  stole  through  gave  to  the  whole  an  air  of  refresh- 
ing coolness. 

In  the  morning,  preparations  were  made  for  breakfast.  Tane 
killed  a  fowl,  plucked  it,  then,  wrapping  it  in  leaves,  placed  it  under 
ground  to  roast,  and  at  the  proper  moment  put  some  bread-fruit  on 
the  fire.  The  lazy  sori-in-law  went  out,  broke  open  a  ripe  cocoanut, 
and  grated  the  kernel  into  a  saucer,  after  which  he  separated  finely 
some  of  the  fibre  of  a  green  husk  until  it  resembled  hemp,  and  re- 
moving the  prepared  kernel  to  it  from  the  saucer,  he  wrung  it  with 
his  hands  until  a  thick  cream-like  substance  streamed  from  it  into  a 
dish  placed  for  its  reception.  This  was  deliciously  sweet,  and  an 
excellent  substitute  for  butter,  by  dipping  into  it  the  mealy  bread- 
fruit. Foreigners  who  sometimes  wish  to  be  exceedingly  nice  with  its 
preparation,  drop  hot  stones  into  the  dish  containing  it,  and  in  a  short 
time  the  watery  portion  evaporates,  leaving  only  the  sweet  and  pure 
oil.  There  were  no  feis,  for  this  island,,  like  Huahine,  produces 
none. 

After  one  of  the  boys  had  climbed  a  tree  and  thrown  down  some 
young  cocoanuts  for  the  sake  of  their  cooling  beverage,  old  Tane 
arranged  the  dishes  and  food  upon  the  table  for  breakfast.  In  doing 
this,  he  panted  laboriously,  and  drove  away  Matea,  who  had  proffered 


350  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

her  services.  His  crockery  had  been  culled  from  various  sources, 
and,  for  a  wonder,  he  provided  me  with  a  knife  and  fork.  The  latter 
was  a  fair  specimen  of  Sheffield  cutlery,  but  the  palmiest  days  of 
the  other  had  evidently  been  passed  amid  scenes  of  salt  junk  and 
rigging  ;  it  was  a  worn-out  sheath-knife,  and  its  wooden  handle, 
polished  by  age,  bore  the  impress  of  a  "  foul  anchor"  and  two  or 
three  initials.  None  of  the  family  could  ever  be  persuaded  to  join 
me  at  my  meals.  Sometimes,  after  I  had  devoured  the  better  half 
of  a  fowl,  besides  two  or  three  hemispheres  of  bread-fruit,  a  com- 
plete surfeit,  my  landlord  would  inquire  commiseratingly  whether  I 
was  troubled  with  dyspepsia,  deducing  the  inference  from  what  he 
really  considered  my  delicate  appetite. 

It  should  have  been  previously  remarked  that  Tane  occupied  the 
enviable  post  among  his  neighbors  of  "  commercial  agent"  for  a  Ger- 
man trader  residing  in  Huahme,  who  had  intrusted  him  with  a  few 
varieties  of  unsaleable  prints  that  had  grown  musty  upon  his  shelves, 
also  a  small  assortment  of  haberdashery.  These  evidences  of  pros- 
perity the  "  agent"  kept  carefully  concealed  in  one  of  his  green 
chests,  lest  they  should  become  too  commonplace  by  the  vulgar  gaze 
of  outsiders.  When  a  customer  called  to  examine  his  stock,  he 
would  unlock  one  of  his  private  chests  to  obtain  the  key  of  that  con- 
taining his  goods.  In  expatiating  upon  the  merits  of  some  of  his 
styles,  his  eloquence  was  never  exhausted.  To  convince  a  cus- 
tomer that  a  pareu  pattern  was  becoming,  he  would  wrap  one  end  of 
the  calico  around  his  waist,  and,  with  head  erect,  step  off  like  a 
militia  colonel,  while  the  remainder  of  the  print  was  trailing  after 
him  upon  the  mats  and  dried  grass  of  the  floor.  Had  he  received  a 
proper  schooling  at  the  period  of  imbibing  *  first  principles,"  he  would 
have  made  a  capital  "  drummer."  But  his  arguments  failed  to  con- 
vince, and  a  loss  of  commissions  was  painfully  obtruded  as  he 
gathered  up  his  piece-goods  and  replaced  them  in  the  chest  without 
reference  to  original  fold.  I  do  not  believe  he  sold  a  fathom  of 
cloth  during  my  sojourn  in  his  family. 

Tane  had  one  specimen  of  personal  property  that  hung  near  my 
bed,  which  I  could  never  look  at  without  laughing ;  it  was  a  tri- 
cornered  pasteboard  chapeau,  fashioned  much  like  those  of  juvenile 
"  trainers"  at  home,  though  more  elaborately  decorated.  Its  sides 


An  Evidence  of  Military  Taste.  351 

were  ornamented  with  red  cotton  fringe,  and  crowning  its  apex  was 
a  tuft  of  poultry  feathers  ;  at  either  extremity  hung  a  yellow  tassel. 
But  the  grand  effect  produced  was  by  the  frontispiece  ;  this  was  a 
square  green  ticket  (probably  purloined  from  his  dry  goods)  pasted 
on  the  hat,  emblazoned  with  the  American  eagle,  who  bore  in  his 
beak  the  somewhat  mercenary  announcement  of  "  Merrimac  Prints — 
Warranted  Fast  Colors."  Whether  this  emblem  of  warfare  had  been 
borrowed  from  Raiatea,  or  had  been  prepared  in  anticipation  of  a 
French  invasion,  I  never  learned,  but  am  certain  that  the  paper  cone 
was  never  sported  in  my  presence. 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 

THE     "COBBLER'S     DAUGHTER.' 

SEVERAL  days  had  been  passed  in  the  family  of  Tane,  when  one 
morning  a  little  schooner  was  seen  off  the  entrance  to  the  harbor. 
With  a  "  foul"  wind,  it  tacked  incessantly  in  the  narrow  passage,  until 
"  catching  a  slant,"  she  shot  in  on  the  larboard  tack,  stretching  away 
towards  Famii,  and  with  every  stitch  of  canvas  spread,  she  came 
dashing  across  the  bay  "  with  a  bone  in  her  teeth."  The  next  board 
brought  her  nearly  opposite  the  premises  of  Tane,  where  she  let  go 
her  anchor.  It  was  a  dingy-looking  little  craft  of  twenty  or  thirty 
tons.  Defect  in  proportion  and  other  deformities  were  the  result  of 
domestic  manufacture,  for  naval  architecture  has  not  yet  reached  the 
acme  of  perfection  among  the  Pacific  Isles.  She  bore  the  singular 
name  of  "  Cobbler's  Daughter,"  having  been  built  in  Huahine  by  a 
shoemaker  and  his  daughter. 

In  many  respects  it  was  an  evil  hour  for  Tane  when  the  "  Cob- 
bler's Daughter"  furled  her  sails  in  Borabora  harbor,  for  she  was 
owned,  and  at  the  time  commanded,  by  the  German  trader  who  had 
exalted  him  to  the  post  he  then  occupied,  and  who,  among  other 
purposes,  had  come  to  receive  an  account  of  his  stewardship. 

Captain  Harry  was   a  loud-spoken,  hard-working  man,  who,  in 


,352  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

many  respects,  by  his  long  residence  in  the  group,  had  become  Ta- 
hitianized.  His  first  request  to  Tane  was  to  construct  a  small  in- 
closure  for  the  purpose  of  containing  a  number  of  porkers  he  had 
picked  up  during  a  trading  cruise  among  the  islands.  Tane  bustled 
about,  shouting  to  his  attendants  as  they  brought  the  light  stakes, 
thinking  that  delinquencies  to  be  discovered  would  be  cancelled 
by  present  officiousness.  In  due  season  the  pen  was  completed, 
and  the  work  of  disembarking  commenced,  canoes  being  used 
for  lighters ;  and  such  a  medley  of  discordant  grunts  and  squeals 
perhaps  never  before  echoed  through  the  quiet  groves  of  Ta- 
rapiti. 

The  indulgent  reader  may,  perhaps,  sneer  at  the  intrusion  of  such 
trifling  occurrences,  and  call  them  swinish  ;  but,  as  every  historified 
subject  contains  events  both  trivial  and  momentous,  to  avoid  a  charge 
of  remissness  has  been  sought  in  the  present  narration.  Borabora 
has  its  commerce,  which  in  its  way  is  as  much  entitled  to  consid- 
eration as  the  income  of  a  Rothschild  or  the  Hebrew  mothers  who 
wove  linen  girdles  for  the  merchants.  The  arrival  of  the  "  Cob- 
bler's Daughter"  perhaps  deserved  arid  received  the  same  attention 
in  the  archives  of  Borabora  that  would  have  been  claimed  for 

H.  B.  M. seventy-four, ,  Rear-Admiral  of  the  Blue  ;  for 

she  floated  the  independent  flag  of  Huahme.  Mateha  made  a  note 
of  it  in  his  records,  and  compared  it  with  the  entry  in  the  pilot's 
book.  In  future  years  this  cargo  of  live  stock  may  figure  largely  in 
statistics  of  foreign  imports. 

Captain  Harry  had  visited  the  place  more  especially  to  settle  an 
account  of  long  standing.  It  appears  that,  about  six  months  previous, 
a  person  familiarly  called  "  Bill,"  an  old  resident  of  Borabora,  had 
visited  Huahme,  and  by  largely  representing  the  quantity  of  cocoanut 
oil  and  swine  he  could  procure  among  the  leeward  islands,  for  such 
merchandise  as  he  should  select,  Harry  was  induced  to  furnish  him 
with  a  snug  little  invoice.  The  merchandise  he  carried  with  him  to 
Borabora,  but  removed  a  portion  of  it  to  the  little  island  Motuiti,  ten 
miles  distant,  where  he  went  to  superintend  the  manufacture  of  co- 
coanut oil.  According  to  Bill's  statement,  the  casks  furnished  him  by 
Harry  proved  worthless,  and  the  oil  leaked  out.  As  he  had  written 
him  to  have  them  removed,  he  could  not  conscientiously  consider 


Necessity  for  Diplomatic  Relations.  353 

himself  responsible  for  the  loss.  In  the  meantime  he  had  disposed 
of  the  goods  to  remunerate  natives  for  their  services. 

Harry's  story  differed  vastly  ;  he  said  Bill  had  by  fraudulent 

pretences  obtained  goods  to  the  amount  of  hundred  dollars, 

which  he  had  disposed  of  and  retained  the  proceeds  for  his  own 
benefit ;  and  further,  that  the  casks  containing  the  said  oil  were  of 
his  own  selection,  and  that  instead  of  attending  to  his  business  as  he 
ought  to  have  done,  he  had  been  imbibing  pale  brandy  among  the 
cocoanufc  groves  of  Motuiti. 

This  was  an  international  affair,  for,  as  before  stated,  Huahine  and 
Borabora  were  independent  kingdoms  ;  the  judiciary  of  the  latter 
considered  itself  unauthorized  to  act  without  official  notification  from 
the  authorities  of  the  neighboring  State,  and  then  the  evidence  was 
so  conflicting,  that  even  the  regent  Mateha  frankly  admitted  his  in- 
competency  to  give  a  decision.  Harry  proposed  submitting  the 
whole  affair  to  the  arbitration  of  disinterested  foreigners  and  non- 
residents, but  to  this  the  other  would  not  consent.  Bill  was  an 
American,  with  a  liberal  endowment  of  general  information,  espe- 
cially in  figures,  and  his  account-current  was  drafted  as  neatly  as 
would  have  been  that  of  a  San  Francisco  commission  merchant, 
showing  a  balance  in  his  favor. 

Harry  said  it  looked  very  well  on  paper,  but  it  reminded  him  of 
the  old  story  of  the  Yankee  and  Indian  who  went  out  hunting  on 
shares,  resulting  in  two  items  of  game,  a  turkey  and  a  hawk,  to  be 
divided  between  them.  Said  the  Yankee  to  the  Indian,  "  You  take 
the  hawk  and  I'll  take  the  turkey,  or  I'll  take  the  turkey  and  you 
take  the  hawk."  The  Indian  said  it  sounded  fair  enough,  but  some- 
how or  other  he  always  got  the  hawk. 

During  my  stay  in  Borabora,  the  two  parties'  never  met  face  to 
face,  for  both  breathed  chivalrous  deeds  towards  each  other.  Bill 
had  been  hired  by  the  doctor  to  superintend  the  native  women  while 
packing  oranges,  which  was  done  in  -the  large  court-house  upon  the 
common.  Now  and  then  Harry  would  pass  by  bareheaded,  in  full 
Tahitian  costume,  beating  the  air  with  his  fists,  and  howling  threats 
in  Teutonic.  On  these  occasions,  Bill  turned  a  shade  browner,  and 
hitching  up  his  trowsers  uneasily,  stared  savagely  at  him  through  the 
purdu  slats,  and  giving  his  head  two  or  three  serious  shakes,  re- 

23 


354  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

* . 

marked,  "  I  shall  have  to  take  hold  of  that  man  yet."  I  sailed  before 
the  adjustment  of  the  affair,  but  the  last  threat  of  Harry  was  that  he 
should  carry  off  a  beautiful  boat  belonging  to  Bill.  According  to 
this  gentleman's  sentiments,  its  execution  would  involve  the  delicate 
question  of  physical  ability. 

A  day  of  reckoning  had  come  for  Mr.  Tane.  One  morning  Captain 
Harry  came  over  to  examine  his  account-current,  and  take  an  in- 
ventory. The  purification  of  the  Augean  stables  was  a  trifling  affair 
in  comparison  with  this  tax  upon  Tane's  ability  ;  the  occupation  of 
fifteen  minutes  consumed  a  day,  and  a  vocabulary  of  invectives  was 
expended  upon  those  who  assisted  him.  His  sales  had  been  reg- 
istered upon  two  or  three  greasy-looking  papers,  covered  with 
characters  that  bore  a  stronger  resemblance  to  Ethiopic  symbols  than 
Arabic  figures,  and  in  deciphering  which  he  had  recourse  to  a 
neighbor's  assistance.  To  augment  his  perplexity,  his  statement 
exhibited  a  deficit  of  two  pongee  handkerchiefs ;  this  discrepancy 
was  very  promptly  attributed  to  his  wife's  neglect,  and  he  questioned 
both  her  and  his  daughters  somewhat  severely  as  to  what  they  had 
been  about  in  not  looking  after  the  store  during  his  absence.  All 
protested  their  innocence  of  having  had  anything  to  do  with  the 
sales,  upon  which  Tane  bundled  them  into  the  yard,  including  son- 
in-law  and  infant,  and  then  commenced  a  rigid  search,  in  which  mats 
were  pulled  up,  grass  scattered,  chests  researched,  and  the  inter- 
stices between  the  thatch  and  rafters  carefully  examined.  But  all 
to  no  purpose  ;  the  missing  property  was  never  recovered,  and  that 
night  poor  Tane  sat  down  disconsolately  upon  one  of  his  chests,  and 
with  chin  in  his  hands,  supported  by  the  joint  assistance  of  elbows 
and  knees,  he  stared  gloomily  out  upon  the  water,  crushed — annihi- 
lated by  a  moral  conviction  that  with  all  his  assiduity  to  please,  he 
was  only  a  mene  tekel  "  agent"  after  all.  The  culminating  point  of  his 
troubles  was  yet  in  perspective.  That  evening  Captain  Harry  came 
in  to  pay  me  a  visit ;  and  to  moisten  the  link  of  friendship,  one  of  the 
boys  was  sent  off  to  the  "  Cobbler's  Daughter"  with  a  written  order, 
and  presently  returned  with  a  huge  bottle  of  cherry  bounce.  Though 
of  superior  flavor,  it  contained  a  liberal  per  centage  of  alcohol,  and 
was  accordingly  sipped  with  caution.  Harry  was  evidently  sensible 
of  a  "  genial  glow,"  and  lest  the  company  should  understand  here 


Tdne  seeks  Consolation.  355 

and  there  a  word  while  discussing  family  topics,  we  spoke  German. 
He  sung  several  songs,  and  among  them  those  somewhat  equivocal 
stanzas,  familiar  alike  to  Saxons  and  Wurtembergers — 

"Als  ich  an  einem  Somer-Tag,  &c." 

Soon  after,  he  returned  to  the  premises  occupied  by  himself  and 
wife,  almost  adjoining  ;  but,  unfortunately,  he  forgot  to  carry  the 
bottle  with  him,  and  I  to  remind  him  to  do  so.  The  consequence  was 
that,  after  I  had  retired,  I  saw  Tane  look  wistfully  at  it  for  a  short 
time,  then  deliberately  pour  out  a  tumblerful,  which  he  drained 
without  stopping  to  breathe.  Placing  the  glass  upon  the  table, 
he  gave  two  or  three  audible  respirations,  as  brandy-drinkers  are 
wont  to  do,  and,  half  soliloquizing,  remarked : — "  E !  mea  maitdi 
teia."  (Really,  this  is  excellent !) 

Mrs.  Tane  remonstrated ;  but  the  old  man  replied,  good-hu- 
moredly,  "  Aredna  oe  vahine."  (Woman,  have  patience.)  This 
only  made  her  more  importunate  in  her  request  that  he  would  for- 
sake immediately  the  dangerous  proximity  of  the  bottle,  which  called 
forth  another  exclamation  of  "  Titdla  ton  pardu  /"  (Have  done  with 
your  talk.) 

After  a  brief  interval,  another  glass  disappeared  ;  and  Tane  began 
to  feel  on  excellent  terms  with  himself.  At  this  juncture  I  took  the 
liberty  of  remonstrating,  when  Tane  discovered  for  the  first  time 
that  I  was  awake.  He  came  to  the  bed,  and  deliberately  raising 
the  curtain,  drew  up  a  chair  and  sat  down  beside  me.  I  knew 
what  was  coming,  and  braced  myself  to  endure  with  fortitude  the 
infliction  ;  for  the  climax  of  colloquial  annoyance  is  to  be  doomed  to 
the  incoherences  of  a  person  who  is  "  three  sheets  in  the  wind,  and 
the  other  shivering." 

He  commenced,  in  a  silken  voice  : — 

"  Thomas,  what  do  you  call  that  stuff  in  the  bottle  ?" 

"  Cherry  bounce." 

"  M — te — erry  bout — y"  was  his  ludicrous  attempt  to  repeat  the 
name.  He  then  continued — 

"  Thomas,  you  my  friend  ;  this  is  my  thought.  I  want  you  to 
live  in  Borabora.  We'll  keep  store  and  get  rich.  Plenty  hogs  and 


356  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

cocoanuts  in  Borabora.  This  my  yard,  and  all  these  fruit-trees.  I'll 
build  a  house,  and  you  shall  marry  Matea.  My  thought  is  she  likes 
you,  (literally,  has  a  passion.)  If  she  don't,  I'll  make  her.  You  can 
have " 

"  Aita  oe  hamd  ?"  (Are  you  not  ashamed  of  yourself  ?)  interrupted 
Matea. 

Tane  continued  : — "  You  can  have  the  benefit  of  all  my  property, 
•and  I  won't  charge  you  anything  for  the  use  of  it."  He  then  fell 
into  a  fit  of  musing  ;  but  presently  resumed  : — "  Raatira  (the  captain) 
thinks  I've  stolen  his  handkerchiefs,  but  he's  mistaken.  I've  built 
a  nice  pen  for  his  pigs,  and  bought  cocoanuts  to  feed  them  with  ; 
but  he  don't  thank  me  for  it." 

He  continued  his  nonsense  until  I  grew  sleepy  and  vexed,  when 
I  told  him  to  drop  the  curtain  and  be  gone.  He  obeyed  very 
promptly,  but  had  hardly  taken  five  steps  from  the  bed  before  he  re- 
turned, and  gently  raising  the  curtain,  inquired,  as  softly  as  an 
infant : 
s  "  Thomas,  what  did  you  call  that  stuff  in  the  bottle  ?" 

"Cherry  bounce,  sir!"  was  the  reply,  with  all  the  sternness  I  could 
muster. 

"  E !  M-te-erry  sou-fy,  tir  ?"  replied  Tane,  with  a  strong  em- 
phasis on  the  penultimate,  and  counting  the  syllables  on  his  fingers. 
He  then  retired,  apparently  satisfied. 

I  slept  until  midnight,  when  I  was  awakened  by  a  bellowing  and 
howling  that  might  have  distracted  the  lunatics  of  Bedlam.  Tane 
had  drained  the  bottle.  Looking  through  the  gauze  net,  I  beheld  a 
sight  that  would  have  made  a  rumseller  blush.  The  two  daughters 
in  deshabille,  by  their  united  efforts,  were  holding  their  frantic  father, 
who  sometimes  struggled  and  shouted  like  a  maniac.  When  the 
paroxysm  had  passed,  he  would  cry  and  laugh  as  if  in  a  fit  of  hys- 
terics ;  then  again,  with  his  powerful  arm,  he  would  draw  his  young- 
est daughter  to  him  with  indelicate  fondness,  and  the  utmost  efforts 
of  the  poor  girl,  who  was  sobbing  ready  to  break  her  heart,  were 
exerted  to  disengage  herself  from  his  embrace.  Had  Shelley  wit- 
nessed it,  he  might  have  realized  his  conception  of  "  The  Cenci." 

The  mother,  who  held  the  infant,  sat  trembling  in  one  corner  of 
the  apartment,  perhaps  apprehensive  of  the  Bluebeard  propensity  of 


.  Consequences  of  Intemperance.  357 

her  husband,  while  the  son-in-law  occasionally  assisted  the  girls. 
The  pretty  little  musquito-net  had  been  torn  down,  and  with  the  in- 
fant's bed  was  trampled  under  foot.  The  general  confusion  of  the 
apartment  evidenced  a  drunken  struggle. 

I  bore  it  as  long  as  I  could,  then  jumped  up,  dressed  myself,  and 
with  my  bedding  sought  refuge  in  the  house  of  a  neighbor.  When 
Tane  saw  that  I  was  in  earnest,  he  set  up  a  series  of  howls,  such  as  : 
"Aue  !  Tamate  aita  parau  i  te  metua  !  Farue  te  vahme  !  laurdna  oe, 
Tamate  !  Aue,aue-e-e  /"  (Alas  I  Thomas  won't  speak  to  the  father;  he 
is  forsaking  the  daughter  !  Farewell,  Thomas  !  Oh  dear  !  oh  dear  !) 

That  night  the  mutois  (constables)  took  Tane  in  charge,  and  the 
next  day  he  was  fined  for  drunkenness.  This  was  not  the  worst : 
on  the  following  morning  the  report  went  abroad  that  he  had  turned 
a  stranger  out  of  his  house,  thereby  violating  the  sacred  laws  of 
hospitality  ;  but  the  climax  of  misery  was  the  loss  of  the  enviable 
post  of  "  commercial  agent  for  Huahme." 

Matea  ne/er  spoke  to  me  afterward  ;  if  we  chanced  to  meet  on 
the  Broom  Road,  she  carried  her  head  as  stately  as  a  queen,  with- 
out even  deigning  me  a  look.  This  loss  of  favor  I  attributed  solely 
to  the  cherry  bounce  of  the  "  Cobbler's  Daughter." 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

THE  ORANGE   GROVES   OF  F  ANUI. 

IT  having  been  ascertained  that  a  cargo  of  oranges  could  be  pro- 
cured here,  chiefly  at  Fanui  Bay,  where  they  were  still  upon  the 
trees,  Captain  Beauvais  and  the  doctor  visited  that  locality,  and  on 
their  return  the  former  gave  a  glowing  description  of  the  scenery. 
On  the  following  morning  I  accompanied  them  in  the  boat,  it  being 
a  more  expeditious  route  than  following  the  irregularities  of  the  shore, 
and  after  a  pull  of  nearly  two  miles,  we  fairly  opened  the  beautiful 
bay,  which  is  a  mile  in  length  by  half  a  mile  in  breadth  ;  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  entrance  it  curves  toward  the  southeast,  thus  forming  a 


358  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

commodious  harbor  independent  of  the  reef  that  encircles  the  island. 
The  land  on  both  sides  was  high  and  densely  wooded,  but  no  houses 
were  seen  until  we  had  reached  the  head  of  the  bay,  where  they  were 
scattered  beneath  the  grove  that  extended  to  the  water's  edge.  A 
croup  of  both  sexes  were  standing  on  the  beach  to  welcome  us  to 
Fanui  ;  as  it  was  ebb  tide,  our  boat  grounded  a  short  distance  from 
the  shore,  when  several  natives  waded  in  and  transported  us  on  their 
shoulders. 

Leaving  Dr.  Doan  to  attend  to  financial  matters,  the  captain  and 
I  indulged  in  a  short  ramble.  Although  not  given  to  the  "  melting 
mood,"  he  declared  it  to  be  the  loveliest  spot  he  had  ever  visited, 
and  I  should  envy  not  the  fastidiousness  of  Rasselas,  had  he 
looked  with  indifference  upon  the  orange  groves  of  Fanui.  This 
happy  valley  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  gently  receding  hills, 
covered  with  luxuriant  vegetation  ;  at  its  southeastern  extremity  the 
gray  castellated  rock  of  Mount  Pahia  rises  perpendicularly  to  the 
clouds.  Through  its  centre  winds  a  small  stream,  gradually  in- 
creasing by  the  tributary  rills  that  ripple  down  gentle  declivities, 
until  it  empties  into  the  sea.  In  every  direction  are  groves  of  orange 
and  bread-fruit  trees  ;  from  the  former  the  fruit  was  unplucked,  and 
hung  temptingly  in  golden  clusters.  Wherever  we  strayed,  it  was 
beneath  the  shade  of  a  leafy  canopy  ;  and  the  perfume  and  fresh- 
ness of  the  atmosphere  were  invigorating.  Occasionally  we  came 
upon  a  small  inclosure,  with  its  rustic  hut  half  hidden  by  the 
broad  leaves  of  the  banana  or  plantain  ;  and  as  we  passed,  iaurdna 
came  pleasantly  from  within.  Toward  the  head  of  the  valley  the 
land  is  more  rolling,  and  standing  as  it  were  upon  terraces  are 
groves  of  bread-fruit.  This  portion  is  unoccupied  ;  and  the  scen- 
ery, often  wildly  romantic,  is  solitary  in  the  extreme  ;  for,  save 
the  voice  of  nature  in  the  rippling  brook  and  the  whispering  leaves, 
no  other  sounds  are  heard.  I  noticed  a  row  of  huge  gray  boul- 
ders beneath  a  dark  canopy  of  boughs,  a  gloomy  relic  of  dark- 
ness and  superstition.  Like  the  forest  of  ancient  oaks,  where  the 
sacred  mistletoe  hallowed  the  Druid  altar,  these  solemn  shades  were 
a  fitting  spot  for  the  celebration  of  impious  rites,  and  the  phan- 
toms of  those  who  had  bled  upon  the  sacrificial  stone  seemed  to 
haunt  their  awe-inspiring  solitudes. 


The  Doctor  Purchases  a  Cargo.  359 

From  the  hills  in  the  rear  a  charming  view  is  obtained ;  the  eye 
wanders  over  a  sea  of  foliage  and  mottled  plumes,  undulating  in  waves 
of  verdure.  On  the  left  are  precipitous  ridges,  where  evergreen 
surges  are  mantling  cliffs — flinging  upward  their  emerald  spray 
to  encircle  sharp  pinnacles  with  leafy  chaplets.  The  azure  of  the 
still  lagoon  mirrors  the  shadows  of  forest  headlands.  Palm-covered 
islets  repose  on  the  reef,  girdled  by  the  snowy  fringe  of  breakers, 
and  stretching  away  to  the  horizon  is  the  broad  sweep  of  ocean. 

On  our  return  to  the  landing  we  found  the  doctor  surrounded  by 
quite  a  crowd,  chiefly  the  owners  of  the  oranges,  from  whom  he  was 
endeavoring  to  purchase  a  cargo.  The  bell  suspended  to  a  tree  had 
been  rung,  and  the  natives  were  assembled  to  consult  with  each  other 
as  to  the  price  they  should  demand.  Numerous  speeches  were  made 
by  the  old  men,  setting  forth  the  disadvantages  under  which  the  agri- 
culturists of  Borabora  labored  in  suffering  their  fruits  to  grow  spon- 
taneously, only  to  be  disposed  of  to  the  papads  (foreigners)  at  prices 
ruinous  to  their  own  interests  ;•  as,  for  instance,  fifty  cenfs  per  hun- 
dred for  cocoanuts,  and  only  four  dollars  per  thousand  for  oranges, 
and  that,  too,  in  part  trade.  Some  insisted  on  holding  out  for  four 
dollars  in  cash  ;  but  the  doctor  shook  his  head  seriously,  and  made 
a  movement  toward  the  boat,  telling  them  that  their  oranges  would 
soon  drop  from  the  trees,  and  that  they  would  afterward  regret 
having  let  so  good  an  opportunity  for  disposing  of  them  pass  un- 
improved. 

The  bargain  was  accordingly  made,  and  afterward  for  the  crates  ; 
all  to  be  conveyed  to  the  court-house  in  the  settlement,  which  had 
been  hired  for  the  purpose  of  packing. 

I  noticed  many  pretty  faces  among  the  females,  to  whom  our  ar- 
rival was  an  advent.  Some  of  them,  adorned  with  the  choice  or- 
naments of  nature,  and  surrounded  by  the  luscious  fruits  they  had 
brought  to  dispose  of,  suggested  thoughts  of  Pomona,  or  a  correspond- 
ing divinity  in  Polynesia. 

We  remained  at  Borabora  for  two  days,  then  visited  Tahiti ; 
returning  after  an  absence  of  twelve  days.  Almost  the  first  ob- 
ject that  attracted  my  attention  on  entering  the  harbor  was  the 
little  sloop  which  I  had  chartered  several  months  previous  ;  it  had 
arrived  from  Maupiti  that  morning,  and  in  passing  it  on  my  way  to, 


360  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

the  shore  I  saw  the  Paumotu  girl,  who  gave  a  shout  of  recognition. 
During  our  absence  the  doctor  had  not  been  idle.  We  found  him 
comfortably  installed  in  the  house  of  Mateha,  which  he  had  rented 
for  the  occasion  ;  the  spacious  court-house  was  nearly  filled  with 
crates  and  boxes,  and  some  forty  or  fifty  females,  from  the  sexagena- 
rian to  the  laughing  girl,  were  engaged  wrapping  oranges  in  ihefdla 
leaves,  preparatory  to  packing.  On  these  occasions  there  appears  to 
be  a  tacit  understanding  among  the  old  gossips,  that  every  subject 
that  can  afford  matter  for  comment  shall  be  raked  up  and  discussed ; 
and  between  this  and  smoking  cigaritos,  made  of  fine  tobacco  wrap- 
ped in  a  small  piece  of  fdla  leaf,  they  manage  to  pass  their  time 
very  agreeably.  The  girls,  too,  appeared  to  enjoy  a  lively  con- 
versation among  themselves,  and  were  modest  in  their  demeanor  to- 
ward strangers,  the  extent  of  their  temerity  being  to  beg  the  favor 
of  a  puff  or  two  from  a  cigar.  At  sunset  all  repair  to  the  house 
to  receive  their  pay,  usually  fifty  cents  per  day  ;  after  which,  the 
young  ladies  decorate  themselves  with  the  tidre,  and  saunter  along 
the  Broom  Road,  to  enjoy  a  tete-a-tete  with  their  sweethearts. 

I  was  conversing  with  the  doctor  one  afternoon  in  Mateha's  yard ; 
near  by  were  several  natives,  and  leaning  against  the  house  was 
an  interesting  little  girl  about  ten  years  of  age,  who  wore  on  either 
side  of  her  head  a  single  flower  of  the  Cape  jessamine  ;  soon  after, 
Mr.  Krause,  the  missionary,  was  seen  walking  toward  the  court- 
house, and  although  at  a  considerable  distance  from  us,  such  was  the 
fear  his  presence  inspired,  that  several  of  the  elder  girls  said  imme- 
diately to  the  child,  with  decisive  gestures,  "  Farm  tc  tidre  ;  hapepe  .'" 
(throw  away  the  flowers  ;  be  quick  !)  Reluctantly  the  innocent  crea- 
ture plucked  the  fresh  ornaments  from  her  hair,  threw  them  upon  the 
ground,  and  trampled  them  under  her  feet.  To  me  this  required  no 
explanation,  for  throughout  Polynes^,  I  have  noticed  that  although 
filling  their  own  gardens  with  exotics,  the  missionaries  look  with 
pious  horror  upon  this  description  of  ornament  when  worn  by  natives, 
and  would  instil  a  prejudice  to  the  indulgence  of  this  innocent  taste, 
irreversible  as  the  extremes  of  the  magnetic  pole.  That  was  wrong, 
Mr.  Krause,  and  the  pleasing  evidences  of  your  horticultural  taste  are 
diametrically  opposed  to  it;  if  you  permit  them  to  indulge  with 
impunity  their  fancy  for  tinsel  finery,  introduced  by  foreigners,  you 


Ultra  Notions  of  Propriety.  361 

should  never  instruct  the  innocent  child  that  the  snowy  petals  ex- 
haling a  sweet  perfume  amid  its  raven  tresses  are  symbols  of  sub- 
jects unmentionable.  The  doctor  merely  shrugged  his  shoulders 
and  said  it  was  "  characteristic  of  the  faith  in  this  section  of  the 
country." 

We  were  frequently  the  recipients  of  Mr.  Krause's  hospitality,  and 
though  perhaps  too  ultra  in  some  of  his  views,  I  consider  him  one  of 
the  most  practical  men  of  his  calling  in  the  group.  From  the  consul 
who  visited  this  island  during  our  sojourn,  we  learned  that  at  Raiatea 
the  armistice  between  Tamatoa  and  Tamare  having  been  concluded, 
the  former  had  retired  toward  Opoa,  pursued  by  the  rebel  chief, 
and  that  the  two  parties  were  cannonading  each  other  at  the  time 
he  left. 


CHAPTER    XXVIII. 

A     WORD     CONCERNING    MISSIONS. 

WITHOUT  designing  to  enter  upon  the  topic  of  missionary  duties 
and  privileges,  which  is  not  comprised  within  these  limits,  I  cannot 
forbear  giving  a  few  desultory  thoughts  or  reflections  upon  the  subject, 
as  they  occur  at  a  moment  of  retrospection.  Without  aspiring  to 
the  championship  of  either  sect  or  party,  I  esteem  it  a  privilege  to 
contribute  my  mite  to  the  scale  of  public  opinion  toward  counter- 
acting the  influence  of  evil  reports  that  have  gone  abroad,  dictated 
perhaps  by  guilty  consciousness,  and  propagated  by  kindred  fellow- 
ship. It  has  been  said,  "  Let  him  who  is  without  sin  cast  the  first 
stone" — a  just  rebuke  to  officious  meddlers  who  groan  without  ac- 
complishing, while  preferring  their  wire-drawn  charges.  But  it  is  con- 
ceded to  be  hardly  applicable  in  the  present  instance  ;  for,  were  our 
right  to  judge  based  upon  our  own  merits,  how  few  would  attain  to 
that  eminence !  It  is  a  privilege  we  possess,  and  perhaps  a  duty,  to 
examine  the  constituent  principles  of  any  charitable  institution  that 
claims  our  sympathies  in  its  behalf,  and  it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that 
a  society  so  comprehensive  in  its  views,  so  world-wide  in  its  enter- 


362  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

prises  as  that  of  Foreign  Missions,  should  escape  the  censure  of 
those  whose  tenets  are  perhaps  as  heterodox  as  the  superstitions  of 
less-favored  brethren.  It  is  believed  that  all  will  concur  in  admitting 
that  efforts  having  a  tendency  to  elevate  a  fellow-being  from  corrupt- 
ing influences  to  a  higher  grade  in  the  social  scale,  and  pointing  out 
the  way  to  intellectual  enjoyment,  are  praiseworthy ;  and  this  con- 
ceded, it  can  hardly  be  denied  that  the  system  of  evangelizing  in 
connection  with  them  can  be  otherwise  than  beneficial  in  its  results. 

In  confirmation  of  the  preceding,  it  might  be  shown  that  the  in- 
creased facilities  for  commercial  intercourse  among  the  groups  ol 
the  Pacific  where  the  words  of  truth  have  been  sown  in  prolific  soil, 
are  paramount  to  those  of  the  isles  that  still  sit  in  the  shadow  of 
darkness ;  this  may  perhaps  engage  a  future  remark.  But  the 
pivot  on  which  turns  the  equipoise  of  public  opinion,  and  which  has 
proved  a  most  fruitful  source  of  animadversion,  is  the  "  undue  influ- 
ence acquired  by  the  mission  over  the  minds  of  its  proselytes,"  and 
to  this  are  ascribed  the  obstacles  that  have  arisen  in  the  way  of  pri- 
vate advancement  where  the  spiritual  and  secular  conflict ;  but  the 
whole  tissue  of  obloquy  is  usually  so  slightly  woven  that  it  disap- 
pears at  the  first  breath  ,of  truth.  Their  object  was  to  acquire  an 
influence  over  the  minds  of  those  they  sought  to  instruct ;  they  have 
succeeded,  and  should  be  proud  of  it.  They  found  vice '  and  igno- 
rance ;  they  have  endeavored  to  inculcate  virtue  and  knowledge.  It 
would  be  accounted  strange  if  a  guardian  who  had  watched  the 
dawn  of  the  first  germ  of  intellect,  carefully' tending  its  progressive 
development,  should,  after  simply  instructing  it  in  its  spiritual  duties, 
send  it  abroad  to  combat  superior  intelligence  with  its  selfish  in- 
terests. Thus  with  the  natives  of  Oceanica  less  gifted  than  those 
whom  commerce  and  adventure  have  thrown  among  them,  and  in 
every  instance  where  an  isle  or  group  has  been  reclaimed,  the  right- 
ful lords  of  the  soil  have  voluntarily  solicited  the  advice  of  their 
spiritual  teachers,  to  enable  them  to  meet  on  more  equal  footing  the 
advances  of  those  who  claim  their  hospitality  or  intercourse. 

No  brighter  example  of  the  suc9ess  of  missionary  labors  need  be 
adduced  than  that  of  Hawaii  in  its  present  condition.  Since  the 
battle  of  Kuarnu,  fought  in  the  autumn  of  1819,  sealing  forever  the 
fate  of  idolatry  upon  her  shores,  and  the  subsequent  establishment 


Depopulation  not  Attributable  to  Missions.  363 

__^^^  • 

of  Christianity  in  1820,  she  has  steadily  progressed,  building  up  in- 
stitutions for  learning,  which  have  disseminated  the  blessings  of 
truth  and  knowledge  ;  and  at  the  present  day  she  stands  forth  with- 
out a  parallel  in  the  annals  of  heathen  regeneration.  A  casual  ob- 
server would  perhaps  require  stronger  evidences  of  radical  reform 
than  present  themselves  at  a  superficial  glance  ;  but  when  it  is  con- 
sidered that  teachers  have  labored  among  a  race  vicious  from  its 
origin,  whose  language  expresses  no  symbol  for  either  virtue  or 
gratitude,  an  index  to  disposition,  an  unprejudiced  mind  will  admit 
that  much  has  been  accomplished.  Who  will  doubt  the  sincerity 
of  the  Hawaiian  queen,  reclaimed  from  idolatry,  who  sat  com- 
posedly within  the  appalling  domains  of  her  fabled  deity,  and,  re- 
nouncing her  allegiance,  sang  praises  to  Jehovah,  while  fiery  surges 
were  rolling  at  her  feet  ?  Or  who  would  not  admire  the  harmonizing 
influences  of  Christianity  on  the  imperious  disposition  of  the  haughty 
Kaahumanu  ? 

These  are  not  solitary  instances.  A  liberal  mind  would  refer  the 
hospitality  and  fri'eridly  intercourse  that  characterize  native  converts 
to  their  true  source,  the  successful  introduction  of  the  Gospel.  The. 
trader  whose  pursuits  are  amid  the  vast  archipelago  of  Oceanica, 
and  who  encounters  the  two  extremes  of  existence,  can  answer  for 
this.  There  are  those  whose  abilities  and  acquirements  would  lead 
us  to  hope  for  more  liberal  views  on  this  subject,  who  have  un- 
charitably attributed  the  numerical  decline  of  the  inhabitants  of 
evangelized  groups  to 'causes  nearly  or  remotely  allied  to  missions. 
Such  arguments  are  almost  too  absurd  for  refutation.  I  will  merely 
refer  the  holders  of  such  opinions  to  those  two  once  populous  islands 
of  Micronesia,  Strong's  and  Ascension,  which,  when  first  discovered, 
were  inhabited  by  thousands,  holding  frequent  communication  with 
trading  vessels  ;  but  the  mission  established  in  1852  is  welcomed  by 
a  few  -hundred  natives,  physically  and  morally  deteriorated  by  their 
intercourse  with  foreigners.  Again,  there  are  others  who  would 
exhaust  reams  of  letter-press  to  convince  the  public  generally  that 
"  charity  begins  at  home,"  and  adduce  a  standard  of  moral  precedents 
from  the  theories  of  Socrates  or  Plato.  Let  us  simply  inquire  of 
these  exclusive  champions  of  domestic  regeneration,  whether,  during 
the  five  thousand  years  that  have  recently  elapsed,  or  since  the  build- 


364  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

•___ 

ing  of  the  first  city  by  Cain,  such  a  quality  as  benevolence  really  ex- 
isted ;  and  if  so,  whether  during  this  period  it  lacked  objects  on  which 
to  bestow  its  sympathies,  before  the  project  of  foreign  missions 
was  in  embryo.  -Were  the  spirit  of  such  an  argument  literally 
adopted,  it  would  imply  a  selfishness  inconsistent  with  the  moral 
sentiment  that  characterizes  the  march  of  intellect  at  the  present 
day ;  and  from  the  pinnacle  of  our  own  conceit  we  would  look  down 
upon  the  masses  revolving  around  us  as  necessary  appendages,  sub- 
servient to  our  interests.  There  is  another  class  of  writers  upon 
this  subject  who  enchant  us  by  their  fascinating  style,  and  whose 
productions  would  be  better  appreciated  if  upon  subjects  of  vital  in- 
terest they  would  forbear  to  condemn  where,  through  prejudice,  they 
cannot  approve.  Like  birds  of  the  night,  they  delight  in  ruins, 
erecting  the  fabric  of  their  greatness  over  the  fancied  wreck  of 
the  hopes  and  reputation  of  those -who  have  never  done  them  an  in- 
jury, and  who  with  becoming  charity  would  extend  the  arm  of  sup- 
port to  such  as  deservedly  need  it.  But  the  castle  they  attack  is  built 
upon  a  rock,  and  the  winds  of  contempt  and  waves  of  reproach  will 
forever  blow  and  beat  in  vain,  for  its  foundation  "  is  not  of  earth." 

With  reference  to  the  social  condition  of  the  missionaries  in  Poly- 
nesia, in  many  respects  there  is  little  to  envy :  their  responsibilities 
are  great,  their  duties  fatiguing,  frequently  precluding  them  from 
domestic  enjoyment,  and  their  existence  dependent  on  the  caprice 
of  savages.  Instances  might  be  adduced  of  years  of  toil  with  al- 
most inadequate  means  for  support,  and  premature  decline  engendered 
by  an  enervating  climate  on  peculiarly  susceptible  temperaments. 
But  on  the  other  hand,  we  have  evidences  of  worldly  prosperity 
among  those  who  court  prospective  enjoyment  by  secular  pursuits, 
and  whose  acquisitiveness  has  induced  comment  among  the  observ- 
ing as  to  the  sincerity  of  the  tenets  by  which  they  profess  to  be 
guided.  Although  instances  occur  that  clash  discordantly  with  the 
constituent  principle  of  evangelization,  they  are  too  isolated  to  affect 
comprehensive  results.  Such  have  a  refuge  and  defence  in  that 
applicable  proverb,  "There  is  none  perfect — no,  not  one." 

It  is  unpleasant  to  draw  distinctions  where  the  benevolent  of  two 
great  nations  are  engaged  in  the  same  object ;  in  doing  so,  reference 
should  be  had  to  natural  facilities  or  advantages,  and  affecting  causes, 


A  Comparison  Instituted.  365 

with  charitable  regard  for  the  feelings  of  each.-  It  would  appear  that 
by  tacit  consent  the  English  have  occupied  the  groups  south,  and  the 
American  missionaries  those  north  of  the  equator,  for  their  respective 
fields  of  labor.  In  the  year  1797,  Tahiti  was  fixed  upon  by  the 
London  Missionary  Society  as  the  basis  for  its  operations  in  the 
South  Seas,  and  in  that  year  a  ship  was  sent  out  with  twenty-five 
teachers  for  the  Society,  Marquesas  and  Friendly  Islands.  During 
subsequent  years  the  number  was  greatly  augmented,  but  this  enter- 
prise failed  to  realize  the  anticipations  of  its  projectors  ;  for  various 
reasons  post  after  post  was  abandoned,  and  in  many  instances  mis- 
sionary efforts  proved  futile.  The  station  at  Tahiti  was  alone  pre- 
served, and  after  years  of  toil  and  perseverance,  the  labors  bestowed 
upon  it  were  crowned  with  success,  for  it  stood  forth  the  shining 
nucleus  of  the  isles  around  it.  Later  results  may  be  witnessed  in  the 
conversion  to  Christianity  of  the  inhabitants  of  that  group  ;  also,  of 
New-Zealand,  the  Austral,  Hervey,  Friendly,  and  portions  of  the  Fiji, 
Samoan  and  Paumotu  Islands,  aided  by  the  Wesleyan  Mission.  It 
is  not  of  the  extent  or  sincerity  of  their  conversions  that  I  wish  to 
speak,  but  of  the  results  that  have  attended  them  pertaining  to  edu- 
cation and  industry.  It  will  be  conceded  that  the  moral  deportment 
that  characterizes  the  converts  of  less  frequented  groups  is  in  strict 
accordance  with  the  faith  they  profess,  and  in  this  respect,  superior 
to  that  exhibited  at  the  Sandwich  or  Society  Islands.  Their  limited 
education  may  be  adapted  to  their  wants,  but  the  examples,  for  com- 
parison of  intellectual  advancement,  should  be  the  Sandwich  and 
Tahitian  Islands  ;  for  to  these  have  the  respective  efforts  of  each 
been  mainly  directed,  and  from  both  radiate  light  and  knowledge  to 
surrounding  groups. 

In  both  instances  we  have  the  complete  abolition  of  idolatry ;  by 
the  English  Mission  this  was  found  in  all  its  deformity,  and  after 
years  of  persevering  zeal,  successfully  combated ;  whereas,  the 
American  missionaries  found  the  field  clear,  and  a  nation  without  a 
creed  waiting  to  receive  the  Word.  The  former  have  labored  more 
than  fifty,  the  latter  more  than  thirty  years  ;  for  beneficial  results,  we 
have  only  to  examine  the  present  condition  of  the  two  groups.  At 
the  Society  Islands  we  find,  with  bold  exceptions,  the  natives  prone 
to  be  ignorant,  vicious  and  warlike,  deriving  their  subsistence  chiefly 


366  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Sea*. 

from  the  spontaneous  products  of  the  soil,  without  possessing  the  am- 
bition even  to  clothe  themselves  with  the  habiliments  of  civilization  ; 
exhibiting  but  few  evidences  of  industry,  and  their  intellectual 
acquirements  confined  to  the  simple  branches  taught  in  the  primary 
and  only  class  of  schools  in  this  group.  But  at  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  whose  population  quintuples  that  of  the  former  group,  we 
have  a  nation  of  more  industrious  habits,  exhibiting  at  least  the  out- 
ward attributes  of  civilization,  and  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  the 
peaceful  arts  ;  possessing  in  an  eminent  degree  the  desire  and  capa- 
city to  appreciate  and  comprehend  the  instructions  of  their  teachers. 
They  have  four  hundred  and  twenty-three  primary  and  common 
schools  writh  native  teachers,  the  number  of  whose  scholars  nearly 
equals  the  entire  population  of  the  former  group ;  besides  having 
nine  seminaries,  or  private  schools,  where  English  and  the  more 
complex  branches  are  pursued.  The  annual  outlay  for  educational 
purposes,  by  contributions,  but  chiefly  by  government  appropria- 
tions, is  not  far  from  $25,000.  The  Rev.  Henry  T.  Cheever, 
who  has  visited  this  group,  furnishes  the  following  interesting  sum- 
mary of  missionary  statistics  : — 

"  We  have  spent  some  time  at  all  of  the  nineteen  missionary  sta- 
tions but  one  where  there  are  resident  missionaries,  except  on  the 
island  of  Kauai.  We  have  surveyed  missionary  and  native  life 
under  various  aspects,  and  have  become  somewhat  acquainted  with 
the  modes  and  means  of  operation  upon  the.  native  mind,  and  their 
results  ;  and  with  the  trials  and  difficulties  which  the  missionary  has 
to  contend  with. 

"  We  have  mingled  with  the  people  in  the  house  and  by  the  way, 
in  the  field  and  the  school,  at  their  work  and  their  play,  in  the  meet- 
ing for  religious  inquiry  and  at  the  public  sanctuary.  We  have  seen 
by  observation  what  they  now  are,  and  we  have  heard  from  others 
what  they  once  were.  And  in  instituting  our  final  comparison  be- 
tween the  Heart  of  the  Pacific  as  it  was  and  is,  or  between  times 
now  and  times  that  were,  when  the  first  missionaries  landed  at 
Kailua,  we  will  take  the  state  of  progress  found  at  the  lapse  of  just 
one  quarter  of  a  century,  as  indicated  by  a  careful  survey  and  com- 
parison of  statistics  derived  on  the  spot. 

"  In  the  first  place,  there  labored  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  from 


Missionary  Statistics.  367 

1820  to  1844,  at  different  times,  sixty-one  male  and  sixty-seven 
female  missionaries,  who  performed  in  all  ten  hundred  and  eighty- 
eight  years  of  missionary  service.  By  these  there  were  expended 
$608,865  in  their  outfit,  support,  and  missionary  work.  After 
twenty-five  years  from  the  first  settling  of  missionaries  among  a  race 
of  the  very  lowest  savages,  there  were  to  be  seen  erected  forty  per- 
manent dwelling-houses,  two  printing  offices  and  binderies,  with 
which  were  connected  four  printing-presses  ;  four  commodious  semi- 
nary and  school  buildings,  all  which,  together  with  large  and  valu- 
able lands  attached  to  them,  were  the  property  of  the  American 
Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions. 

"  Besides  these  results  of  Christian  industry  and  perseverance,  per- 
manent stone  meeting-houses  were  found  erected  at  almost  every 
station,  by  the  united  skill  and  resources  of  missionary  and  people, 
giving  and  laboring  voluntarily ;  and  about  three  hundred  and 
seventy-five  school-houses.  The  Hawaiian  tongue  had  been  mas- 
tered, we  might  almost  say  created,  and  reduced  to  writing,  and  one 
half  the  adult  population  taught  to  read.  There  had  been  established 
four  hundred  and  three  public  schools,  in  which  seventeen  thousand 
four  hundred  and  forty  children  and  youth  were  being  instructed. 

"  The  entire  Bible  had  been  translated  from  the  original  tongues, 
and  there  had  been  printed  fifty-two  thousand  copies  of  the  New 
Testament,  and  twenty  thousand  of  the  Old,  besides  several  editions 
of  one  and  ten  thousand  copies  of  fragmentary  portions  of  the  Scrip- 
tures, before  the  entire  translation'  was  completed.  Upwards  of 
seventy  other  different  works,  large  and  small,  had  been  compiled 
and  issued  from  the  press,  and  the  total  number  of  pages  printed  at 
the  missionary  presses  up  to  1844,  were  twenty-two  million  sixty- 
one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  fifty. 

"  There  had  been  organized  twenty-five  independent  native 
churches,  and  there  had  been  received  to  them,  on  examination, 
thirty-one  thousand  four  hundred  and  nine  persons,  of  whom  there 
were  then  living  in  regular  standing  twenty-two  thousand  six  hun- 
dred and  fifty-two,  being  more  than  one-fifth  of  the  entire  population 
of  the  islands. 

"  Besides  these  educational  results  that  can  be  condensed  into 
statistics,  it  should  be  added  as  a  part  of  their  education  as  a  people, 


368  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

that  the  institutions  of  the  Sabbath  and  of  Christian  marriage  had 
been  firmly  established ;  government  had  been  rendered  compara- 
tively just  and  stable  ;  a  good  written  constitution  and  laws  had  been 
enacted  ;  life  and  property  were  rendered  secure  ;  the  country's  in- 
dustry and  resources  were  beginning  to  be  developed.  The  Ha- 
waiian nation's  independence  had  been  acknowledged  by  other 
nations,  and  it  was  admitted  into  the  fraternity  of  Christian  States. 
The  commerce  of  the  islands,  that  is,  the  value  of  its  commercial  ex- 
changes, or  bills  negotiated  there  for  the  supply  of  ships,  had  grown 
from  little  or  nothing  to  two  hundred  thousand  dollars,  while  the 
yearly  net  revenue  of  the  kingdom  had  reached  to  seventy  thousand 
dollars,  and  the  annual  consumption  of  foreign  goods  was  one 
hundred  and  seventy-five  thousand  dollars." 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the  conquest  of  the  American  mission- 
aries has  been  morally  greater ;  and  although  it  may  be  urged  that 
the  present  condition  of  the  Society  Islands  affords  no  just  crite- 
rion for  comparison,  since  the  conquest  of  Tahiti  and  Eimeo  by  the 
French  has  occasioned  a  moral  retrogression,  the  American  mis- 
sionaries have  also  reason  to  complain  of  the  pernicious  exam- 
ples and  influences  that  have  been  greatly  augmented  by  increased 
foreign  intercourse,  owing  to  recent  developments  on  neighboring 
shores. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Mission  has  made  but  little  progress  in  Poly- 
nesia. From  Tahiti,  as  a  starting-point,  they  have  extended  their 
sway  over  the  Gambier  Islands,  an  insignificant  group,  constituting 
the  southeastern  extremity  of  the  Paumotu  Archipelago ;  at  Wallis 
Island ;  also  in  a  few  instances  at  the  Paumotus,  where  some  of  the 
natives  have  endured  martyrdom,  while  the  creed  was  forced  upon 
them'by  French  bayonets.  At  the  Sandwich  Islands,  their  faith  was 
earlier  established  ;  and  the  actual  number  of  converts  in  this  group 
probably  exceeds  that  of  all  the  South  Pacific  Isles.  These,  how- 
ever, are  chiefly  drawn  from  the  lower  classes,  on  whom  the  creed 
and  doctrines  sit  as  lightly  as  their  rosaries  and  amulets.  Tahiti  is 
their  stronghold ;  but  even  here  their  converts  are  comparatively  few, 
so  deep-rooted  is  the  aversion  of  the  natives  toward  the  French, 
since  the  deprivation  of  their  liberties.  Several  Sisters  of  Charity 
have  found  their  way  to  these  far-off  isles,  to  lead  their  erring  sisters 


Conclusion.  369 


by  the  hand,  to  breathe  an  atmosphere  of  moral  purity.  Their  hu- 
mane and  benevolent  efforts,  in  every  clime  where  they  have  been 
established,  call  forth  encomiums  from  the  liberal-minded,  irrespect- 
ive of  schismatic  prejudices,  who  bid  them  God-speed  in  their  pious 
labors. 

Certain  tenets  of  the  Romish  missionary,  diametrically  opposed  to 
those  of  the  Protestant,  admit  of  no  examples  of  domestic  enjoy- 
ment which,  by  imitation,  would  tend  to  the  elevation  of  their  con- 
verts. Whereas,  the  Protestant  missionary,  by  drawing  around  him 
the  refined  associations  of  a  home,  encourages  the  native  to  seek  a 
more  exalted  position  in  the  social  scale,  while  instructing  him  in 
his  spiritual  duty.  The  former,  a  true  zealot  of  the  faith  he  pro- 
fesses, wanders  through  valley  and  over  mountain,  enduring  hardship 
and  privation,  with  no  domestic  ties  to  engage  his  attention,  but  with 
his  whole  soul  devoted  to  the  cause  he  professes,  to  extend  the  tem- 
poral dominion  of  his  god,  the  Church.  Though  wielding  their  power 
with  arbitrary  sway,  where  they  have  obtained  a  footing,  I  have  not 
observed  that  the  natives  influenced  by  Catholic  control  were  more  cir- 
cumspect or  fettered  in  their  intercourse  with  foreigners  than  those 
professing  the  Protestant  faith  at  the -friendly  and  Austral  Islands, 
where  the  spiritual  dominion  of  their  teachers  is  absolute.  The 
animosity  exhibited  by  both  sects  toward  each  other  is  bitter  and 
uncharitable. 

But  to  all  who  in  truth  and  sincerity  have  conveyed  the  glad 
tidings  of  "peace,  good-will  toward  men,"  carrying  forward  the  great 
work  of  evangelization  throughout  the  earth,  is  due  the  gratitude  of 
the  civilized  'world.  This  wide  field  for  the  display  of  Christian 
benevolence  will  repay  a  hundred-fold  the  labors  bestowed  upon  it — 
temporally,  in  its  commercial  developments  ;  spiritually,  in  the  crea- 
tion of  a  new  link  to  the  chain  that  shall  ultimately  unite  the  hu- 
man race  in  one  common  bond  of  fellowship,  hallowed  by  reverence 
for  a  Supreme  Creator.  From  the  isles  of  the  South,  the  "  still, 
small  voice"  sends  back  a  cheering  response  ;  for,  in  many  a  bright 
glade  that  re-echoed  the  sound  of  heathen  orgies,  the  Lily  of  the 
Valley  lifts  its  unsullied  head,  sheltered  by  the  vine  of  Love,  and 
nourished  by  the  still  waters  of  Truth.  Nor  does  the  bread-fruit  yield 
less  abundantly,  nor  the  cocoa-palm  rustle  less  joyfully  where  buds 

24 


370  Reef-Rovings  in  the  South  Seas. 

and  blooms  the  Rose  of  Sharon,  for  "  the  earth  is  the  Lord's,  and 
the  fulness  thereof," 


The  reader  and  I,  who  have  so  long  rambled  together,  must  now 
bid  each  other  farewell. 

For  several  days  the  sky  has  been  overcast,  and  the  thick  fog 
and  greenish  tinge  of  the  water  indicate  our  proximity  to  colder 
scenes  ;  but  at  parting  let  us,  in  fancy,  once  more  stand  together 
upon  deck,  in  the  bright  moonlight  of  a  summer  evening,  and,  while 
watching  the  misty  outline  of  Borabora  looming  dimly  in  the  horizon, 
feel  that — 

<£As  slow  our  ship  her  foamy  track 

Against  the  wind  is  cleaving, 
Her  trembling  pennant  still  looks  back 

To  that  dear  isle  'tis  leaving. 
So  loth  we  part  from  all  we  love — 
From  all  the  links  that  bind  us  ; 
So  turn  our  hearts,  where'er  we  rove, 
To  scenes  we've  left  behind  us." 


PART  IV. 


APPENDIX. 


APPENDIX  I. 


A   GLANCE   AT   THE    PRESENT   CONDITION   OF 
POLYNESIA. 


The  five  grand  Divisions  of  Oceanica:  Great  Polynesian  Triangle — Classification  of  Groups — 
Structure— Easter  Island— Climate  and  Diseases  of  First-Class  Islands— Second-Class 
Islands— Third-Class  or  Coral  Islands— Commerce  of  the  Low  Islands— Savage  Islands- 
Natural  Productions  of  First-Class  Groups— Introduction  of  Domestic  Animals— Popula- 
tion of  Polynesia — The  Natives — Physical  Appearance  and  Intellectual  Capacity — Their 
Language — Hawaiian  Dialect — Poetry — Government  and  Social  Condition  of  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  :  Georgian  and  Society ;  Paumotu  ;  Marquesas  ;  Samoan ;  Tonga ;  Hervey  ;  and 
Austral  Islands — Natural  and  Agricultural  Resources  of  Polynesia — Sandal-wood — Future 
Tillers  of  the  Soil— Honolulu,  Papeete,  and  Apia,  as  Depots  for  Pacific  Steam  Navigation. 

IN  venturing  a  remark  on  the  present  condition  of  Polynesia,  or  the 
groups  of  the  Pacific,  we  do  not  propose  entering  into  idle  speculations  on 
their  formation,  nor  exhibiting  in  detail  their  productions  or  history  ;  the 
field  has  been  too  often  gleaned  by  abler  writers,  to  render  a  recapitula- 
tion interesting  to  the  reader.  But  at  the  present  day,  when  golden  dis- 
coveries have  opened  new  fields  for  commercial  enterprise  amid  this  vast 
archipelago,  and  when  important  events  are  transpiring  in  the  political 
drama  of  nations,  which,  to  a  certain  extent,  must  influence  its  condition, 
it  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  bestow  a  superficial  glance  upon  these 
clustering  groups  or  detached  islets,  which,  like  nebulae  or  solitary  stars, 
besprinkle  the  Western  Ocean.  Though  comparatively  unimportant,  they 
are  becoming  interwoven,  incorporated  as  resting-points,  by  the  lines  that 
commerce  is  drawing  through  and  around  them. 

Not  many  years  ago,  the  broad  Pacific  rolled  its  waves  from  shore  to 
shore,  seldom  disturbed  save  by  the  keels  of  whalers  and  occasional 
traders  among  the  islands.  Now,  it  is  traversed  in  every  direction  ;  and 
no  islet  is  too  insignificant  to  be  visited  that  can  suggest  an  avenue  to 


374  Appendix  I. 


wealth,  or  furnish  acquisitions  to  science.  The  improvements  in  naval 
architecture,  and  the  appliance  to  navigation  of  principles  carefully  de- 
duced from  meteorologic  observation,  have  greatly  promoted  the  maritime 
branch  of  commerce,  and  voyages  that  were  heretofore  contemplated  as 
formidable  from  their  duration  are  now  regarded  with  indifference. 

But  few  years  will  have  rolled  by,  ere  the  bands  of  commerce  that  are 
fast  uniting  its  remotest  shores  will  introduce  the  blessings  and  vices  of 
civilization  to  nearly  every  isle  of  Oceanica,  and  the  realities  of  romance 
will  be  as  tales  forgotten.  Already  do  the  Society,  Tonga,  and  Samoan 
Islands  receive  the  adventurous  California!!  who  pauses  for  a  moment  on 
his  way  to  the  more  recently  discovered  gold  fields  of  Australia ;  and  it 
is  to  be  hoped  that  the  two  rising  empires  now  so  cordially  extending  the 
hand  to  each  other  from  opposite  shores  may  continue  to  advance  in  the 
mutual  enjoyment  of  peace,  and  build  up  life-giving  beacons  which  shall 
scatter  the  rays  of  enterprise  and  benevolence  among  the  dark  isles  of 
ocean. 

Oceanica  comprises  all  the  groups  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  having  an  ex- 
tent of  11,000  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  more  than  6,000  from  north 
to  south,  and  although  impossible  to  ascertain  its  precise  population,  it 
has  been  computed  at  upward  of  18,000,000.  It  is  recognized  by  geog- 
raphers as  comprising  three  grand  divisions  :  Malaysia,  Australasia,  and 
Polynesia — though  by  others  it  has  been  more  definitely  classified,  as  sug- 
gested by  ethnographic  distinctions  and  geographic  position.  These  sub- 
divisions are  Malaysia,  comprising  Sumatra,  Java,  Borneo,  Celebes,  Timor, 
the  Philipine  and  numerous  islands  in  the  Soloo  Sea.  Australia  is  con- 
fined to  New  Holland  and  Van  Dieman's  Land.  Melanesia  comprises  the 
islands  adjoining,  peopled  by  natives  nearly  allied  to  the  African  race, 
having  black  or  dark  skins  and  woolly  or  frizzled  hair.  The  principal 
islands  of  this  division  are  Papua  or  .New  Guinea,  lying  north  of  New 
Holland  ;  also,  New  Ireland,  New  Britain,  New  Georgia,  the  Soloman  and 
Fiji  archipelagoes.  Micronesia  includes  the  central  groups,  together  with 
the  Ladrones,  PeleW,  and  Caroline  Islands.  Polynesia  proper,  with  which 
we  have  at  present  to  do,  may  be  comprised  in  one  vast  triangle,  drawn 
from  the  Sandwich  Islands  on  the  north,  southeast  to  Easter  Island,  4,000 
miles ;  thence  southwest  to  New  Zealand,  constituting  its  southern  leg, 
4,700  miles  ;  then  nearly  northeast  again  to  the  point  of  starting,  a  dis- 
tance of  3,700  miles.  The  four  volcanic  or  principal  groups  within  these 
imaginary  lines  are  the  Hawaiian  or  Sandwich,  Georgian  and  Society, 
Samoan  or  Navigator,  and  the  Washington  or  Marquesas  Islands.  The 
second  class,  or  those  between  the  volcanic  and  coral  islands,  or  com- 
mercially insignificant,  are  the  Hervey  and  Austral,  together  with  a  few 
other  islands  of  lesser  note ;  the  others,  of  which  the  Paumotu  or  Danger- 


A  Glance  at  Polynesia.  375 

oils  Archipelago  is  the  principal,  are  mostly  low  coral  islands,  scantily 
covered  with  vegetation.  In  point  of  number,  extent  of  territory,  popu- 
lation, and  natural  resources,  the  Hawaiian  Islands- rank  first,  being  eight 
in  number,  with  an  aggregate  area  of  more  than  6,000  square  miles. 
Next  in  order  are  the  Samoan,  Georgian  and  Society  and  Marquesas  Islands, 
all  being,  by  a  singular  coincidence,  like  the  first  eight  in  number.  Al- 
though a  single  island  about  ninety  miles  in  circumference,  Tongatabu, 
in  point  of  geographic  advantage,  might  take  precedence  of  the  Marquesas. 
The  Hervey  and  Austral  Islands  are  respectively  five  and  seven  in  num- 
ber, while  the  Paumotu  Archipelago  comprises  upward  of  eighty  islands. 

With  reference  to  the  structure  of  these  principal  groups,  there  can 
exist  no  doubt;  their  igneous  masses  and  crateriform  outline  bespeak 
them  of  volcanic  origin,  and  they  probably  constitute  the  culminating 
points  of  lofty  ranges  which  for  ages  have  been  submerged  beneath  the 
ocean.  The  fiery  craters  of  Kilauea  and  Tofua,  also  the  boiling  springs 
of  Vanua  Levu,  which  act  as  escape-valves  for  pent-up  vapors,  and  the 
ebullition  of  molten  masses,  are  strong  evidence  that  their  constituting 
element  has  only  slumbered.  Unlike  most  other  volcanic  countries,  they 
are  characterized  by  the  peculiar,  almost  unique  formation  of  their  moun- 
tains, most  of  which  attain  an  elevation  above  the  clouds,  and  some  of 
them  are  capped  with  snow.  The  gradual  slopes  of  the  Andes  or  Sierra 
Nevada,  or  the  symmetrical  cones  of  Fogo  and  Pico,  are  seldom  noticed 
here ;  peaks  have  fantastically  shot  up  like  spires  into  a  colder  zone,  as 
at  Moorea  or  the  Marquesas.  These  are  at  times  linked  together  by  pre- 
cipitous, irregular  ridges  ;  and  in  Borabora  we  have  an  island  consisting 
of  a  curved  ridge  with  projecting  spurs  at  almost  regular  intervals,  while 
in  the  centre  rises  a  perpendicular  and  almost  inaccessible  rock  of  basalt 
to  an  elevation  of  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea. 

Many  of  these  summits  are  crowned  with  craters,  which  for  ages  be- 
yond tradition  have  been  quiescent,  and  some  of  them,  as  that  of  Halea- 
kala,  more  than  thirty  miles  in  circumference,  are  almost  unparalleled  in 
their  dimensions.  Smaller  ones  are  sometimes  discovered  in  the  midst 
of  forests,  clothed  with  luxuriant  foliage,  or  they  frequently  occur  as 
isolated  cones  with  flattened  apex,  or  irregular  hills  near  the  shore,  serv- 
ing as  conspicuous  landmarks  from  the  sea.  An  idea  of  the  rugged 
character  of  these  islands  may  be  formed  by  comparing  the  bases  of 
some  of  them  with  the  altitude  of  their  mountains.  The  island  of  Ha- 
waii, whose  greatest  length  and  breadth  are  ninety  and  eighty  miles,  has 
three  lofty  mountains,  the  sum  of  whose  heights  is  about  38,000  feet ;  or 
Tahiti,  whose  culminating  point  is  Orohena,  6,993  feet  high,  having  for  a 
base  a  circumference  of  only  sixty  miles,  excluding  the  peninsula. 

Easter  Island,  or  Vaihoa,  upon  which  rests  the  southeastern  leg  of  this 


376  Appendix  I. 


triangle,  lies  in  lat.  27°  8'  S.,  Ion.  109°  17'  W.,  and  is  about  2,200  miles 
from  the  South  American  coast.  It  is  very  small,  being  but  twenty  miles 
in  circuit,  having  a  bold  shore  and  no  harbors.  Its  structure  is  volcanic ; 
within  its  limits  have  been  observed  several  small  extinct  craters,  now 
covered  with  vegetation,  and  into  one  of  them,  four  miles  in  circuit,  near 
the  centre  of  the  island,  M.  De  Langle,  who  accompanied  the  expedition 
of  La  Perouse,  and  was  subsequently  massacred  at  the  Navigator  Islands, 
descended  to  a  depth  of  near  eight  hundred  feet.  The  island  is  moder- 
ately elevated ;  but  there  are  neither  cocoanut  nor  bread-fruit  trees  upon 
it,  the  natives  subsisting  chiefly  upon  yams,  potatoes,  and  other  esculents, 
which  they  cultivate  to  a  great  extent,  giving  their  island-home  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  terraced  garden.  They  have  no  canoes,  and  in  supplying 
vessels  that  occasionally  touch  there,  chiefly  whalers,  they  swim  off  with 
their  produce,  for  being  hostile  in  disposition,  no  unarmed  boat  has  the 
temerity  to  land.  Captain  Beechy  describes  the  natives  as  handsome ; 
and  he  also  noticed  several  relics  of  huge  stone  idols  much  marred  and 
defaced  by  the  present  race,  who  have  no  tradition  of  their  origin.  This 
island  was  discovered  in  1722  by  the  Dutch  navigator,  Roggewine. 

In  natural  productions,  the  first-class  islands  are  almost  uniformly  pro- 
lific, the  upper  stratum  of  earth  being  usually  composed  of  vegetable  mat- 
ter, which  for  ages  has  been  accumulating  and  undergoing  decomposition, 
and  of  decomposed  lava  or  volcanic  rock,  furnishing  a  rich  trachyte  soil. 
This,  including  the  deep  alluvial  bottoms  formed  like  deltas  by  the  debris 
of  the  mountains,  is  of  unsurpassed  fertility,  as  is  sufficiently  proved  by 
the  luxuriant  vegetation  that  covers  it.  Situate  between  the  tropics,  these 
groups  are  not  exposed  to  the  alternations  of  heat  and  cold  incident  to 
climates  of  the  temperate  zone.  The  lofty  mountains  catch  the  trade 
clouds  in  their  flight,  which  in  turn  discharge  perennial  showers  over  the 
land.  The  observations  of  Dr.  T.  B.  C.  Rooke,  of  Honolulu,  show  the 
mean  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  of  that  place  for  one  year  to  be  75.8° 
Fah.,  also  rainy  days  41,  and  the  amount  of  rain  during  that  time  46.8  in. ; 
the  remaining  days  were  fine.  This  town  is  situate  on  the  leeward  sido 
of  the  island  ;  on  the  opposite  portion,  more  rain  and  a  lower  temperature 
would  have  been  observed  ;  the  inter-tropical  groups  south  of  the  equator 
are  several  degrees  warmer.  During  the  summer  months  the  leeward  por- 
tions of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  wear  a  sterile  aspect,  and  only  recover  their 
natural  freshness  during  the  rainy  season,  from  November  to  March. 

Their  natural  salubrity  of  climate  is  unsurpassed ;  most  of  the  diseases 
that  have  tended  to 'depopulate  these  groups  are  not  indigenous,  but  the 
result  of  foreign  innovation.  Among  the  catalogue  of  ills  entailed,  and 
confined  chiefly  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  are  croup,  cutaneous  eruptions, 
fevers,  influenza,  ulcers,  scrofula,  syphilis,  &c.,  and  recently  the  small- 


A  Glance  at  Polynesia.  377 

pox  has  made  its  appearance  in  this  group,  and  already  carried  off  about 
3,000  of  its  inhabitants.  Elephantiasis,  though  not  peculiar  to  the  Pacific 
Islands,  as  some  have  supposed,  prevails  to  a 'considerable  extent  among 
the  Society  and  Samoan  Islands,  manifesting  itself  in  swollen  limbs,  at 
times  hideously  disproportioned,  or  in  a  corrugated,  leprous  appearance 
of  the  skin,  (though  from  that  disease  it  is  quite  distinct,)  and  foreigners 
as  well  as  natives  are  sometimes  affected  by  it.  Without  investigating 
its  cause,  which  is  still  a  subject  of  controversy,  it  may  be  simply  added, 
that  by  a  proper  resort  to  febrile  remedies  in  its  incipient  stage,  relief 
will  be  experienced,  or  a  change  of  climate  will  immediately  check  its 
progress. 

It  may  be  again  remarked,  that  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  is 
not  so  high  as  might  be  inferred  from  their  situation  as  inter-tropical 
lands,  owing  chiefly  to  their  isolated  position  and  prevailing  winds.. 
More  especially  is  this  the  case  on  the  windward  portion  of  these  islands,. 
and  during  the  nearest  approximation  of  the  sun  to  the  zenith,  the  heat 
will  not  be  found  so  oppressive  as  in  the  canons  of  the  Sierra  Nevada^ 
or  during  the  summer  months  in  our  Eastern  cities.  However,  from  some 
of  the  sterile  tracts  on  the  leeward  portion  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  the 
rays  of  the  sun  seem  to  radiate  with  an  intensity  almost  unendurable ; 
yet,  were  a  preference  ventured  for  the  climate  of  either  group,  it  would 
be  for  this.  It  has  to  recommend  it  a  close  proximity  to  the  temperate 
zone,  and  lofty  mountains  more  uniform  in  their  character  than  those  of 
the  southern  groups,  and  by  ascending  which  the  temperature  of  the  at- 
mosphere may  be  varied  at  pleasure ;  their  gradual  and  almost  imper- 
ceptible ascents,  elevated  plateaux,  diversified  by  valleys  and  gentle 
declivities,  possess  a  climate  cool  and  invigorating. 

The  second-class  islands  present  but  few  indications  of  volcanic  phe- 
nomena ;  their  rocks  are  chiefly  a  carbonate  of  lime,  apparently  solidified 
and  rendered  firm  by  exposure  to  the  atmosphere,  and  the  spacious 
caverns  of  some  of  them  bear  a  strong  resemblance  to  those  of  limestone 
countries  elsewhere  ;  their  mountains  and  hills  are  usually  rolling,  and 
their  elevation  above  the  sea  from  100  to  500  feet.  The  vegetation  with 
which  they  are  clothed  embraces  nearly  every  variety  of  that  of  the  first- 
class  islands,  having  a  soil  equally  fertile,  but  usually  they  are  destitute 
of  harbors  or  convenient  anchorage,  and  being  of  limited  extent  and 
somewhat  isolated  from  the  channels  of  commerce,  they  are  merely 
visited  for  supplies  by  vessels  that  pass  near  them. 

Of  the  third  class  or  coral  islands  in  this  ocean,  Tongatabu  ranks  first,, 
being  more  than  ninety  miles  in  circumference,  having  a  rich  soil  and  a 
great  variety  of  luxuriant  vegetation  ;  it  possesses  a  good  harbor,  and  its 
geographic  position  is  such  as  to  secure  for  it  a  transient  commerce.  Tho 


378  Appendix  I. 


nebula)  of  islands  designated  Paumotu,  constituting  the  southeastern 
bound  of  Polynesia,  are  scattered  over  an  extent  of  ocean  about  1,000 
miles  from  east  to  west  and  600  from  north  to  south  ;  they  are  chiefly 
low  coral  and  lagoon  islands,  having  a  thin  soil,  with  a  vegetation  re- 
stricted principally  to  the  cocoanut  and  pandanus,  which  constitute  the 
vegetable  diet  of  th&  inhabitants.  Eminent  geologists  have  regarded 
them  as  the  crests  of  submerged  volcanoes,  to  which  saxigenous  polypes, 
or  coral  insects,  have  cemented  their  structures.  These  have  continued 
to  augment,  until  reaching  the  surface  of  the  ocean,  they  are  clothed  with 
vegetation,  as  before  described.  The  crater  constitutes  the  tranquil 
basin  or  lagoon  where  the  pearl-diver  seeks  his  treasure.  Some  of 
these  islands.,  when  viewed  at  a  distance,  are  exceedingly  beautiful ; 
a  quiet  lake  of  varied  tints  is  encircled  by  a  belt  of  emerald  green, 
bordered  by  a  fringe  of  snowy  breakers,  where  the  waves  are  perpetually 
surging.  Being  generally  destitute  of  harbors,  navigation  among  them 
would  be  dangerous  were  it  not  for  the  steady  easterly  winds  which  pre- 
vail throughout  the  greater  portion  of  the  year,  these  islands  being  too 
low  to  influence  them,  as  is  the  case  with  those  of  the  first  class,  where 
there  are  alternations  of  land  and  sea  breeze.  The  shores  of  most  of 
them  are  singularly  bold,  and  Mr.  Dana,  the  geologist  of  the  U.  S.  Ex- 
ploring Expedition,  makes  the  following  remark  relative  to  one  of 
-them : — 

"  These  garlands  of  verdure  seem  to  stand  on  the  brims  of  cups,  whose  bases 
jest  in  unfathomable  depths.  Seven  miles  east  of  Clermont  Tonnerc,  the  lead 
ran  out  to  1,145  fathoms  (6,870  feet)  without  reaching  bottom.  Within  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  of  the  southern  point  of  this  island,  the  lead,  at  another  throw, 
after  running  out  for  a  while,  brought  up  in  an  instant  at  three  hundred  and  fifty 
fathoms,  and  then  dropped  off  again  and  descended  to  six  hundred  fathoms,  with- 
out reaching  bottom.  The  lagoons  are  generally  shallow,  though  in  the  larger 
islands,  soundings  gave  twenty  to  thirty-five,  and  even  fifty  and  sixty  fathoms." 

Mr.  Dana  computes  the  entire  area  of  coral  islands  or  formations  in 
this  ocean  to  be  19,000  miles,  though  but  one-eighth  of  this  area  is  dry 
or  habitable  land. 

Their  commerce,  together  with  that  of  similar  islands  within  these 
imaginary  limits,  is  confined  chiefly  to  pearls,  mother-of-pearl,  and  cocoa- 
nut  oil,  and  thousands  of  tons  of  shells  that  have  been  gathered  from 
them,  prove  it  to  be  a  lucrative  enterprise  to  those  who,  with  the  requisite 
capital,  have  embarked  in  it.  The  depot  for  this  fishery  is  Tahiti ;  it  is 
now  completely  monopolized  by  two  or  three  merchants  of  that  island, 
who  have  trading  stations  scattered  throughout  the  group,  and  small 
vessels  to  convey  the  shells  to  Papeete,  whence  they  are  shipped  to  Val- 
paraiso, Australia,  or  England. 


A  Glance  at  Polynesia.  379 

North  and  west  of  the  Society  Islands,  and  south  of  the  equator,  are 
numerous  solitary  islets,  some  of  them  sandy  and  uninhabited,  but  chiefly 
similar  to  those  just  described  ;  concerning  some  of  them  little  is  known, 
further  than  that  they  are  inhabited  by  a  race  of  hostile  savages,  as  at 
Pennryhn  and  Savage  Islands,  in  habit  and  language  resembling  the 
other  tribes  of  Polynesia. 

In  the  natural  productions  of  the  first-class  islands  there  is  a  similarity, 
though  some  of  them  possess  certain  indigenous  varieties.  The  bread- 
fruit, cocoanut,  banana,  plantain,  yams,  sweet  potatoes,  sugar-cane,  and 
a  variety  of  esculents,  are  common  to  all.  For  luscious  fruits,  the  Geor- 
gian and  Society  Islands  are  noted ;  in  addition  to  those  of  other 
groups,  they  have  the  Brazilian  plum  and  the  delicious  cherimoya,  to- 
gether with  a  profusion  of  the  choicest  oranges  in  the  Pacific.  The 
Sandwich  Islands,  however,  enjoy  the  greatest  variety  and  quantity  of 
vegetable  productions  conducive  to  the  wants  of  civilization,  cultivating 
to  a  considerable  extent  the  staples  of  other  tropical  countries.  Among 
the  forests  of  these  groups  are  noticed  a  variety  of  trees,  valuable  for 
commercial  purposes,  as,  the  koa,  or  mahogany  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands, 
andthe£0m«nw(calophyllum)  of  the  South  Pacific,  which  sometimes  attains 
an  extraordinary  growth  ;  it  is  solid  and  durable,  and  for  strength,  would 
be  well  adapted  to  ship-btiilding ;  from  the  tenacity  with  which  it 
retains  a  nail  or  iron  imbedded  in  it,  it  resembles  the  teak  of  the  East 
Indies.  These  woods,  together  with  several  other  varieties,  are  suscep- 
tible of  a  high  polish,  and  are  valuable  for  building  purposes,  or  articles 
of  furniture. 

But  few  specimens  of  the  animal  kingdom  were  noticed  by  early  voya- 
gers ;  these  were  confined  chiefly  to  swine,  dogs,  and  a  few  ornithological 
varieties.  The  waters  of  all  abound  in  excellent  fish,  which  are  easily 
taken.  A  small  species  of  lizard  and  centipedes  appear  to  be  common  to 
all  the  groups  ;  and  at  the  Samoan  Islands  are  several  species  of  snakes, 
also  of  vampire  bats  ;  none  of  these,  however,  are  venomous.  The 
Samoan  Islands  possess  a  greater  variety  of  game  than  any  other  island 
of  this  division.  Here  are  several  varieties  of  the  turtle-dove,  with  ex- 
quisite plumage  ;  also  water-hens,  wood  pigeons,  wild  ducks,  paraquets, 
and  a  few  other  varieties  of  the  feathered  tribe.  Vessels  lying  in  the 
harbor  of  Apia  may  be  abundantly  supplied  with  wild  pigeons  by  merely 
loaning  a  native  a  fowling-piece  with  ammunition.  It  is  worthy  of 
notice  that  at  the  Hawaiian  and  Samoan  Islands  alone  are  found  owls. 

The  cattle,  goats,  and  sheep,  landed  by  Vancouver  at  the  Sandwich 
Islands  during  the  years  1793  and  1794,  were  tabooed  for  the  ten  years 
following;  the  former  propagated  wonderfully,  and  for  a  considerable 
period  their  hides  were  an  article  of  export.  At  the  present  day  there 


380  Appendix  I. 


are  numerous  herds  and  flocks  roaming  among  the  hills  and  mountains, 
and,  to  a  limited  extent,  at  the  Tahitian  Islands. 

The  following  casual  estimate  of  the  population  of  these  groups  will 
approximate  nearly  to  the  truth  : — Hawaiian  Islands,  73,000  ;  Samoan, 
60,000  ;  Georgian  and  Society,  14,000  ;  Marquesas,  10,000 ;  Tongatabu, 
6,000,  and  the  Hapai  and  Vavao  groups  adjoining,  5,000  ;  Austral  and 
Hervey  Islands,  10,000  ;  and  the  Paumotu  and  other  low  islands  of  this 
division,  5,000.  The  entire  foreign  or  European  population  of  Polynesia 
(excluding  New  Zealand)  would  not  probably  exceed  4,000,  including 
French  military  and  transient  sojourners,  and  the  grand  total  would 
only  be  equivalent  to  about  one  half  the  estimated  population  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands  by  Captain  Cook,  in  1778,  seventy-six  years  ago.  The 
causes  that  have  tended  towards  this  wholesale  depopulation  have  been 
their  wars,  infanticide,  sacrifices  attending  their  idolatrous  system  of 
worship,  and,  above  all,  the  contaminating  influence  of  foreigners. 

These  natives,  by  their  appearance,  affinity  of  language,  and  rites  and 
ceremonies,  are  indubitably  of  Malay  origin.  In  complexion  they  are  of 
a  light  copper  color  or  olive  browrn,  hair  straight,  curling,  or  wavy,  and 
glossy  black,  with  pleasing  features  and  graceful  in  their  physical  con- 
tour. Males  are  often  met  with  upward  of  six  feet  in  height,  in  every 
respect  models  of  symmetry,  and  with  the  bold,  fearless  gait  that  should 
characterize  lords  of  the  soil.  The  females  are  frequently  graceful  and 
delicate,  but  in  applying  to  them  the  quality  of  beauty,  the  Caucasian 
standard  of  perfection  must  be  disregarded.  Our  estimate  of  their  attrac- 
tions is  associated  with  natural  scenery,  climate,  their  vivacity,  inherent 
wit  and  hospitality — a  combination  of  pleasing  realities  that  bias  a  criti- 
cal judgment,  while  lending  favorable  impressions.  The  Hawaiians  per- 
haps make  less  pretension  to  superior  charms  than  any  other  branch  of 
the  Polynesian  family,  wrhile  the  Marquesans  in  personal  attractions  are 
unrivalled  in  the  Pacific.  A  laxity  of  morals  appears  to  be  inherent,  and 
is  only  partially  restrained  by  the  strong  arm  of  the  law  among  those 
groups  that  have  the  benefit  of  a  Christian  form  of  government;  to 
the  persevering  efforts  of  English  and  American  missionaries  can  alone 
be  ascribed  the  preservation  of  the  relic  of  a  once  numerous  race.  Pos- 
sessing a  fair  intellectual  capacity,  they  are  quick  to  comprehend,  but 
having  naturally  habits  of  indolence,  the  majority  of  South  Sea  Islanders 
are  seldom  inclined  to  profit  by  their  instructions. 

Many  of  the  Hawaiians  possess  the  advantage  of  a  liberal  education 
in  the  higher  branches  ;  but  with  all  their  attainments,  we  look  in  vain 
for  a  literary  production,  a  really  intellectual, labor,  if  we  except  the 
fragmentary  evidences  of  poetic  talent,  and  sound,  almost  logical  argu- 
ment. Of  shrewd  and  quick  perceptive  faculties,  many  are  qualified  for 


A  Glance  at  Polynesia.  381 

the  responsible  stations  they  occupy  in  offices  of  State  ;  but  from  existing 
evidences,  we  may  infer  that  an  era  of  national  literature  is  vaguely  in 
perspective. 

For  domestic  economy  and  industry,  the  Hawaiians  rank  first,  next  the 
natives  of  Tongatabu,  the  Hervey  and  Austral  Islands ;  while  for  the 
Samoans,  Tahitians,  and  Marquesans,  nature  has  been  so  prodigal  of  her 
bounties,  that,  instead  of  cultivating  through  necessity,  as  at  the  other 
groups,  they  derive  an  easy  subsistence  from  the  spontaneous  products 
of  the  soil. 

In  noticing  the  language  of  the  Polynesian  family,  reference  must  ne- 
cessarily be  had  to  New  Zealand,  although  that  extensive  country  has, 
for  the  sake  of  geographic,  and  perhaps  political  convenience,  been  recog- 
nized as  one  of  the  constituents  of  Australasia.  It  is  remarkable  that  the 
dialects  spoken  at  New  Zealand,  Hawaii,  and  the  Marquesas,  though  re- 
spectively distant  from  each  other  3,700,  2,200,  and  3,200  miles,  have  so 
strong  an  affinity  for  each  other,  that  the  natives  of  one  country  find  but 
little  difficulty  in  holding  verbal  communication  with  those  of  the  other, 
while  the  Samoans,  situated  nearly  midway  between  New  Zealand  and 
Hawaii,  speak  a  dialect  quite  distinct.  It  may  seem  a  singular  coin- 
cidence that  the  Samoan  Islands,  though  distant  2,400  miles  from  the 
Hawaiian  Islands,  are  the  same  in  number,  lie  in  the  same  direction, 
about  w.  N.  w.  and  E.  s.  E.,  having  the  largest  island  at  the  extremity, 
which,  like  that  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  is  called  Savaii,  the  Samoans 
using  the  s  instead  of  the  A,  and  the  v  instead  of  the  w  of  the  Hawaiian 
dialect.  Their  language,  by  the  frequent  recurrence  of  the  I  and  s,  and  the 
adoption  of  a  soft  nasal  sound,  the  ng  instead  of  the  £,  is  more  euphonious 
than  any  other  spoken  in  the  Pacific,  and  is  to  Polynesia  what  the  Italian 
is  to  Europe,  or  the  Malayan  to  the  East  Indies  ;  it  has  also  the  peculiar- 
ity of  being  the  only  one  that  expresses  an  equivalent  for  thank  you,  (Taa 
fetai.) 

The  original  language,  or  the  one  from  which  the  dialects  of  the  Poly- 
nesians is  derived,  is  probably  the  Malaysian  ;  that  of  the  Hervey  Island- 
ers is  more  extensively  spoken  than  any  other,  being  used  at  a  small 
group  a  long  distance  to  faie  westward  of  those  islands,  and  is  also  spoken 
throughout  the  Paumotu  Archipelago  as  far  as  the  Gambiers.  Each  group 
has  usually  a  dialect  of  its  own,  but  by  their  affinity  for  each  other,  all 
may  be  traced  to  a  common  origin. 

The  peculiarity  of  these  dialects  is  their  limited  number  of  consonants, 
which  do  not  exceed  ten,  while  every  word  or  syllable  terminates  with  a 
vowel.  Another  remarkable  feature  is  the  absence  of  the  auxiliary  verbs 
to  be  and  to  have.  In  pronouns  they  are  exceedingly  rich,  and  which,  to- 
gether with  their  verbs,  possess  many  nice  distinctions.  Their  sentences 


382  Appendix  I. 


are  constructed  with  a  grammatical  precision  that  \vould  hardly  be  sup- 
posed to  exist  in  a  savage  dialect. 

Having  a  better  acquaintance  with  the  Hawaiian  than  any  other, 
though  our  knowledge  of  it  is  necessarily  limited,  a  few  examples  of  this 
dialect  are  offered ;  but  owing  to  the  absence  of  a  vocabulary,  or  any 
work  of  reference  whatever,  it  has'  been  found  necessary  to  draw  from 
memory  such  items  as  are  thought  to  be  too  forcibly  impressed  to  admit 
of  error.  For  even  this  slight  insight  into  its  structure,  acknowledgments 
are  due  to  an  article  from  the  pen  of  the  Rev.  Lorin  Andrews,  of  Hono- 
lulu, that  appeared  in  the  "  Hawaiian  Spectator"  many  years  since ;  also 
to  the  attentions  of  several  members  of  the  mission.* 

The  letters  of  the  Hawaiian  alphabet  are  twelve :  A,  E,  I,  0,  U,  H,  K, 
L,  M,  N,  P,  and  W,  the  vowels  having  the  sound  peculiar  to  the  Spanish 
or  Italian  languages,  while  the  consonants  retain  the  English  accent. 

Two  classes  of  nouns  have  been  recognized,  having  reference,  for  the 
sake  of  euphony,  to  the  definite  article  the,  which,  according  to  the  nature 
of  the  case,  is  signified  by  ke  or  ka.  The  indefinite  article  a  or  an,  is  he 
before  nouns  of  both  classes,  while  na  precedes  and  indicates  the  plural 
number.  The  nouns  are  indeclinable,  their  condition  being  signified  by 
simply  prefixing  the  requisite  prepositions. 

The  same  distinction  is  also  observable  among  some  of  the  pronouns 
preceding  nouns ;  as,  kau  before  those  of  the  first  class,  and  kou  before 
those  of  .the  second  class,  both  signifying  thine.  A  singular  feature  of 
some  of  them  is,  that  when  the  first  letter  or  syllable  is  strongly  aspi- 
rated, the  signification  of  the  word  becomes  the  reverse  of  that  of  its  root : 
as,  kau,  thine ;  KA'M,  mine  ;  nau,  for  thee ;  NA'M,  for  me ;  au,  of  thee  ;  A'M, 
of  me,  &c. 

The  following  will  exhibit  the  declension  of  the  personal  pronoun  au,  I, 
and  the  dual  mdua,  we  two  : — 


SINGULAR. 

NOM.    Au,         /. 
GEN.    O'u,        of  me. 


DUAL. 

NOM.     Maua,      we  two. 
GEN.      6  Maua,   of  us  two. 


*  Since  writing  the  above,  the  "  Polynesian"  has  advertised  the  publication  of 
a  complete  Grammar  of  the  Hawaiian  Language,  from  the  pen  of  the  Rev.  Lorin 
Andrews.  No  person  in  the  kingdom  is  better  qualified  for  the  delicate  and 
erudite  task  of  reducing  a  barbarous  dialect  to  a  written  system  of  speech,  and 
establishing  the  rules  of  syntax,  thereby  exhibiting  at  a  glance  its  beauty  and 
defonnity.  The  reputation  of  the  author  will  secure  its  worth  as  a  literary  pro- 
duction, and  being  the  only  concise  and  careful  analysis  of  this  dialect  of  Poly- 
nesia, it  merits  the  attention  of  every  philologist. 


A  Glance  at  Polynesia.  383 


SINGULAR. 

DUAL. 

DAT.  |  J«> 
(  No'u, 

to  me. 
for  me. 

jy        C  la  maua,  to  us  two. 
1  No  maua,  for  us  two. 

Accu.  Au, 

me. 

Accu.    Maua,      we  two. 

Voc.     

&c.,    &c. 

r  Me'au, 

with  me. 

ABL.  •<  Mai  ou, 

from  me. 

(Eau, 

by  me. 

A  possessive  adjective  pronoun  may  "be  formed  from  the  above  by  pre- 
fixing the  noun  ;  thus,  instead  of 

Ko  kdua  moku,  our  ship,  they  say  with  equal  propriety, 

Ka  moku  o  kdua,  the  ship  of  us. 

There  are  several  forms  of  the  demonstrative  adjective  pronoun,  the 
most  expressive  of  which  are  tie-net,  and  ua-la,  to  which  the  Hawaiians 
give  peculiar  emphasis.  A  native  might  simply  say, 

Maikdi  no  keia  kamalii,  this  boy  is  good.  But  if  he  should  express 
himself, 

Maiftdi  no  UA  kamalii  NEI,  it  would  be  equivalent  to,  this  boy  here  is 
good. 

The  interrogative  pronouns  owdi,  who  ?  aha,  what  ?  and  hea,  where  ? 
may  be  declined  by  simply  applying  the  prefixes  as  in  the  preceding 
examples. 

Adjectives  are  compared  by  affixing  the  diminutives  iki  and  ae,  and  the 
augmentative  loa :  as, 

POSITIVE.  Maikai,  good. 

(  Maikai  iki,       a  little  better 
COMPARATIVE.  <  Maikdi  ae,        better. 

(  Maikai  iki  ae,  better  still. 
SUPERLATIVE.      Maikai  loa,       best. 

The  forms  of  the  dual  are  four,  and  are  as  follows,  with  the  plural  to 
correspond : — 

Kaua,     we  two. 

M£ua,    we  tivo,  (person  addressed  excluded.) 

Olua,     you  two. 

Laua,     they  two. 

PLURAL. 

Kak6u,  we.  ;<^ , 

Makou,  we,  (person  or  persons  addressed  excluded.) 
Okou,    ye  or  you. 
Lakou,  they. 


384  Appendix  I. 


Mdua  is  equivalent  to  he  and  /,  or  the  speaker  and  another  person  rep- 
resented. 

Kdua  is  the  person  speaking  and  the  single  person  addressed,  or  thou 
and/. 

Mdkou  is  equivalent  to  they  and  /:  it  is  the  person  and  those  repre- 
sented, amounting  together  to  more  than  two,  and  excluding  the  person 
or  persons  addressed. 

Kakou,  we,  the  person  speaking  and  person  or  persons  addressed,  and 
whoever  may  be  represented. 

The  people  petitioning  the  king,  or  their  Maker,  would  speak  of 
themselves  as  "  Mdkou ;"  but  if  they  intended  the  king  should  engage 
with  them  in  some  national  enterprise  or  reform,  they  would  say 
"  kakbu."  The  minister  of  religion,  prefatory  to  a  public  prayer,  says 
for  "  Let  us  pray,"  "  E  vule  KAKOU  ;"  then  looking  heavenward,  and  in- 
cluding his  auditory  or  fellow-worshippers  as  before,  says,  "  Ke  pule  nei 
MAKOI:." 

Foreigners  who  can  make  themselves  intelligibly  understood  in  this 
language,  arc  often  ignorant  of  these  nice  distinctions,  but  with  ready 
tact  the  Hawaiians  easily  comprehend  them.  They  never  ridicule  an 
error  of  speech  when  it  occurs  in  a  stranger,  and  a  natural  delicacy  pre- 
vents their  correcting  a  mistake,  unless  requested  to  do  so. 

Officially,  the  kingdom  is  called  Hawaii  nei,  or  Ko  Hawaii  nei  Pae  Aina; 
but  it  would  hardly  be  proper  to  use  these  designations  abroad,  as  nei 
involves  the  idea  of  present  as  to  time  or  place — as  here,  or  this  or  there, 
applied  to  things,  and  now  as  applied  to  active  feeling  and  state  of  being. 

The  Tahitianshave  no  equivalent  for  the  Hawaiian  aloha  (love),  and  it  is 
not  a  little  remarkable  that  a  language  containing  a  word  applicableto  cither 
spiritual  or  sensual  emotion,  should  be  totally  devoid  of  expressions  im- 
plying either  virtue  or  gratitude.  This  circumstance  alone^is  a  comment 
on  national  morality.  When  persons  meet,  the  salutation  is  aloha,  and 
when  departing  the  same  is  exchanged.  The  phrase,  or  exclamation, 
aloha  ino  !  is  used  by  way  of  sympathy  or  commiseration  ;  aloha  maikdi 
is  expressive  of  satisfaction  or  approval.  In  the  interchange  of  saluta- 
tions, strict  reference  is  had  to  the  requisite  form  of  the  personal  pro- 
nouns. 

Aiiwe !  or  auw'e  !  is  an  exclamation  of  frequent  recurrence  ;  according 
to  emphasis,  it  is  expressive  of  either  joy,  surprise,  contempt,  sorrow,  or 
the  most  poignant  grief. 

The  following  paradigm  of  the  verb  Idwe,  to  carry,  in  the  indicative 
mode  and  active  voice,  may  convey  an  idea  of  the  nice  distinctions  ob- 
served in  this  part  of  speech,  which  are  susceptible  of  ramification 
almost  to  infinity  : — 


A  Glance  at  Polynesia. 


385 


frit 

| 

^ 

e  have  just  carried. 

e  have  carried. 

E 

1 

1 

i 

8 

<o 

f 

§§»« 

g 

§ 

!r 

1 

§ 

8 

§ 

1 

rt 

Plural 

lawe  nei  kakou, 
lawe  nei  makou, 
lawe  nei  okou, 
lawe  nei  lakou, 

1 
I 

lawe  nei  kakou, 

<u 

1 

| 

at 
1 

awe  kakou, 

awe  auanei  kakou, 

rt 
1 

E* 

»  o  »  c 

»^H 

cS 

cd 

d 

p—  t 

1—  H 

M 

h-H 

P 

{3 

f3 

W 

H 

W 

pi 

1 

> 
H 

pi 

rril 

w               to    to    W    o 

i 

7g 

T. 

have  just  carried 

Aa?;e  carried. 

AacZ  carried. 

f 

1 

1 

tw7/  carry  woti?. 

O 

0 

ra                            o    S 

1    ii^ 

i! 

PERFEC 

we  two 

w    s 
fa 

£  & 

w    ^ 

1    ^ 

FUTURE. 

we  two 

FUTURE 

tee  ^o 

l"« 

H 

o 

£ 

|| 

M 

04 

H 

SB 

M 

^,    pT 

S  a 

1 

o 

q 

M 

g 

h 

M 

s  ^  £  s  ^  § 

1   §' 

^  § 
s 

E 

§  1 

§     3~ 

W 

pi 

•  J§  S-o-2 

-3 

rt" 

1 

if 

'2 

1 

£> 

W 

"c>  'S  *o  *o 

cT 

'S 

S 

t_^ 

3 

S 

ri 

EH 
O 

M 

c  c  s  a 

O     O    C^    03 

1 

3. 
^ 

1 

o> 

e 
JS 

rt 

1 

i 

r^l 

Q    C5    O    Q> 

cd 

(0 

rt 

c3 

F^H 

fc 

w  w  w  w 

Ml 

p 

nD 

W 

H-  ( 

w 

to 

IV* 

0 

•2 

?^ 

^ 

J 

.  |.(i  t 

f 

^ 

'E 
« 

1 

| 

S 

1 

fa 

55 

li 

3 

1 

B 

1 

1 

'§ 

1 

I'll! 

rt 

"S 

™ 

rj" 

1 

3 

"53 

S 

fi   C   S 

j3~ 

§ 

o 

1 

3 

g 

III 

J2J2-2 

gj    gj    CD 

0 

g 

I 

i 

1 

i 

I 

1 

386  Appendix  I. 


The  conditional  mode  is  formed  by  prefixing  ma,  if,  and  rejecting  cer- 
tain particles,  as  the  case  may  require  ;  as, 

Ina  lawe  au,  if  I  carry. 

The  passive  voice  is  formed  by  adding  the  syllable  ia  to  the  root  or 

verb;  as,, 

Ke  laweza,  nei  au,  /  am  earned. 

Like  the  Hebrew,  the  Hawaiian  has  also  a  causative  form  of  the  verb, 
which  is  signified  by  ho'o  :  as, 

Akaaka  au,  I  laugh. 

Hooakadka  au,  I  am  caused  to  laugh. 

In*  the  Tahitian  dialect  this  is  denoted  by  haa  ;  as,  here,  to  go  ;  H\\here, 
to  cause  to  go. 

The  syntax  or  construction  of  this  language  would  involve  too  much 
prolixity  for  further  digression  ;  a  sentence  from  KaElele  Hawaii  is  merely 
appended,  with  a  literal  translation  :  — 

I  ka  la  29  o  lanu.  iho  nei,  ma  ke  kulanakauhale  o  Wasinet6na,  ma  America 
On  the  day  29  of  Jan.  came  here,  at  the  city  of  Washington,  at  America 

Huipuia,  ua  make  he  kanaka  nui  ma  ia  aina;  O  Henry  Clay  k6na  in&a.  — 
United,  (has)  died  a  man  great  at  that  land;  —  Henry  Clay  his  name.  — 

Nolaila,  kauma'ha  na  naau  o  na  kanaka  a  pau  o  kela  aina  no  kana  (make  ana.) 

Therefore,    heavy      the  bowels  of  the    men     —    all    of  that  land  for    his        dying. 
(sorrowful) 

Though  by  no  means  copious,  this  dialect  is  sufficiently  comprehensive 
for  Hawaiians  to  express  their  ideas,  and  even  sentiments  of  a  poetic 
character.  The  enunciation  is  rapid,  which  sometimes  renders  its  ac- 
quisition difficult  to  foreigners  ;  the  peculiar  manner  of  emphasizing 
often  renders  it  very  expressive. 

From  the  following  specimens  of  Hawaiian  poetry,  it  is  not  to  be  inferred 
that  this  people  are  more  gifted  than  other  branches  of  this  great  family  ; 
they  evidence  the  refining  influence  that  civilization  and  mental  culture 
may  exert  upon  minds  whose  conceptions  were  the  mere  promptings  or 
vagaries  of  ignorance  and  superstition.  They  are  furnished  by  the  Rer. 
Hiram  Bingham.  The  first  was  pencilled  as  uttered  by  Kapiolani,  a 
female  of  high  rank  ;  and  though  wanting  in  metrical  harmony,  the  cir- 
cumstance in  nowise  detracts  from  the  originality  of  sentiment  or  beauty 
of  expression.  It  was  suggested  by  the  illiberal  policy  of  Governor 
Adams  with  reference  to  the  introduction  or  propagation  of  Christianity 
during  the  early  years  of  the  mission. 

"  Love  to  thee,  my  sister  Waahila, 
My  sister  Waahila,  rain  of  Kona  ; 
In  the  days  of  Kanaloa,  descending,  gentle,  and  fine, 


A  Glance  at  Polynesia.  387 

Enlarging  the  opening  blossom  of  the  ohia. 

Thou  didst  crown  thyself  with  a  rainbow  coronet. 
Richly  adorned  was  the  interior  of  Naniuapo, 
Then  flourished  the  shrubbery  of  Waiakekua. 

Thou  playest  a  god  to  trample  down  without  cause ; 
Recklessly  to  confound  the  right  policy. 
The  bud,  the  tender  shoot,  the  stem  is  broken  by  thee ; 
The  shoot  of  that  which  is  excellent  and  holy." 

The  following  beautiful  elegy  was  written  in  Hawaiian  by  a  medical 
student  named  Hoohano,  an  intimate  friend  of  the  deceased.  He  died 
soon  after.  Mr.  Bingham  furnishes  the  following  prefatory  remarks  : — 

"  Hawaiian  poetry  is  not  accurately  measured,  either  in  respect  to  the  succes- 
sion of  feet,  or  the  length  of  the  lines  ;  nor  did  it  exhibit  prior  to  the  introduction 
of  sacred  hymns  by  the  missionaries  any  chiming  at  the  end  of  the  lines.  As 
the  Hawaiian  songs  were  unwritten,  and  adapted  to  chanting  rather  than  metrical 
music,  a  line  was  measured  by  the  breath.  Their  hopuna,  answering  to  our  line, 
was  as  many  words  as  could  be  easily  cantillated  at  one  breath. 

"  Though  this  piece  has  no  more  measure  or  chime  than  the  compositions  of 
the  ancients  or  of  Ossian,  yet  every  line  of  it  is  poetry,  and  of  no  inferior  order, 
compared  with  the  ancient  Greek  or  Latin  odes.  It  is  one  of  the  many  respecta- 
ble specimens  of  poetic  composition,  among  the  instructed  Hawaiians,  of  a 
Christian  character  and  salutary  tendency." 

"  Farewell  to  the  beautiful  flower  of  the  Doctor's  garden  ! 
It  has  fallen  and  vanished  away. 
The  flower  that  budded  first  did  blossom  fair  ; 
Its  splendor  was  seen  ;  its  fragrance  exhaled ; 
But  the  burning  sun  came,  and  it  withered, 
And  that  beautiful  blossom  has  fallen  ! 

The  occupant  of  the  garden  then  wondered 

That  a  single  flower  should  have  fallen ; 

He  sought  it,  but  found  it  not  again ;  it  was  gone ; 

It  had  perished  ;  it  had  mingled  with  the  dust. 

Alas  !    What  a  pity  for  the  flower-plants, 

Which  grow  up  well,  and  lo  !  they  are  withered. 

All  the  flowers  bowed  their  heads,  smelling  the  fragrance ; 

They  stood  around  in  great  sorrow. 

Alas  !  alas  !    O  my  blossom  that  has  fallen ! 

The  chief  tenant  inquired  of  his  landlord, 

'  What  thinkest  thou  concerning  this  flower 

Which  thou  didst  plant  in  my  border!' 

The  Lord  replied, 

'  I  have  taken  away  the  image  of  all  its  glory ; 

Its  bud  has  fallen,  and  is  mingled  with  the  dust.' 

How  beautifully  did  the  plants  flourish  ! 
Compassion  great  for  the  tenant  resident, 
Mourning  and  searching  with  great  lamentation ! 
1  Whither,  0  Gerrita,  hast  thou  gone  1 


388  Appendix  I. 


When  wilt  them  return  to  thy  birthmates  1 
Alone  hast  thou  gone  in  the  way  that  is  lonely ; 
Thou  hast  gone  a  stranger  by  an  unknown  path.' 

O  Gerrita !  Gerrita !     Behold  we  all 

Are  falling  flowers,  and  soon  shall  fall ; 

Where  art  thou  1     Go  thou,  and  bo  a  kind  welcomer  for  us  all. 

O  Gerrita !  Gerrita  !  thou  goest  at  the  pleasure  of  thy  Lord, 

And  none  can  forbid  thy  design.     Go  thou, 

Travel  on,  until  thou  art  wholly  gone,  along  the  lonesome  pathway  ; 

Then  ascend  the  ladder  of  God, 

And  pass  within  the  glorious  walls  of  Jerusalem ; 

And  enter  into  the  peace  of  God's  kingdom. 

Thou  art  singing  hymns  with  good  angels ; 

A  never-ceasing  employment  is  thy  employment  there. 

0  Gerrita !  Gerrita  ! 

Deeply  we  mourn  that  we  cannot  behold  thee  ; 

Forever  hast  thou  gone  from  our  sight, 

And  wilt  return  hither  no  more." 

The  government  and  social  condition  of  the  inhabitants  of  these 
groups  remain  next  to  be  noticed.  Again  Hawaii  stands  pre-eminent ; 
and  as  a  free  and  independent  kingdom,  has  taken  her  place  among 
nations.  In  this  comparatively  insignificant  state,  the  advantages  and 
benefits  of  civil  and  religious  institutions  accord  more  fully  with  our 
views  of  national  worth  than  the  boasted  privileges  of  more  pretending 
principalities.  Industry  and  commerce  have  been  encouraged,  the  cus- 
toms of  the  old  despotic  system  abolished,  and  with  spiritual  instruction 
for  guidance  and  the  secular  arm  for  support,  a  nation  lias  emerged  from 
obscurity  to  enjoy  the  blessings  of  civilization  and  freedom. 

France  controls  the  destinies  of  the  Georgian  Islands,  Tahiti  and  Moorea, 
under  the  name  of  Protectorate.  Pomare  is  nominally  the  queen,  but 
without  a  shadow  of  power  ;  and  the  assumption  of  regal  pageantry,  to 
which  humiliation  she  is  occasionally  subjected,  is  merely  a  dumb  show 
or  political  farce,  for  the  gratuitous  entertainment  of  her  former  subjects. 
It  is  to  be  regretted  that  so  powerful  a  nation  as  France,  having  assumed 
the  specious  title  of  "  Protectorate"  over  the  vestige  of  a  once  numerous 
people,  should  deem  the  establishment  of  a  military  conscription  para- 
mount to  the  advantages  of  civil  institutions  which  would  tend  to  im- 
prove its  condition.  The  natives  are  prone  to  indolence,  and  to  a  certain 
extent  its  attendant  evils,  though  a  more  hospitable  and  friendly  race  are 
not  to  be  found  in  Polynesia. 

Of  the  social  condition  and  domestic  habits  of  the  Society  Islanders, 
hints  have  already  been  given.  Their  days  of  prosperity  have  gone  by  ; 
many  of  those  who  once  cultivated  the  small  plantations  scattered 
throughout  the  group,  have  either  perished  in  repelling  French  aggression, 


A  Glance  at  Polynesia. 


wandered  abroad,  or  passed  away.  The  evidences  of  their  industry 
may  "be  witnessed  in  the  dilapidated  mills  and  tenements,  and  once  culti- 
vated fields,  now  covered  by  the  spreading  guava.  The  worst  feature  of 
that  conflict  is  the  warlike  propensity  bequeathed  to,  or  awakened  in  the 
natives,  who  are  frequently  distracted  by  domestic  dissension,  and  whose 
only  arbiters  are  their  muskets.  Raiatea  and  Borabora  have  kings, 
and  Huahine  and  Maupiti  queens  ;  the  chiefs  of  all  possess  but  little 
authority.  Each  island  is  independent  of  the  other,  having  a  simple  code 
of  written  laws  adapted  to  its  wants. 

The  sway  of  France  is  also  claimed  for  the  Paumotu  Archipelago 
and  the  Marquesas  Islands,  but  it  is  mere  assumption  :  at  the  former, 
many  of  the  islands  are  inhabited  by  savages  that  defy  any  attempts  of 
foreigners  towards  friendly  intercourse.  The  Marquesas  are  of  less 
extent  and  geographic  importance  than  any  of  the  first-class  groups. 
They  possess  but  few  harbors  ;  their  mountainous  and  almost  inaccessible 
ridges  are  shaded  by  groves  of  sandal-wood,  and  their  narrow  valleys, 
bounded  by  precipitous  hills  and  spire-like  mountains,  are  peopled  by  a 
race  of  savages,  the  fairest  and  most  graceful  in  their  physical  contour, 
and  at  once  the  most  vicious  and  warlike  in  their  propensities  of  any 
in  Polynesia.  In  some  of  their  secluded  valleys,  the  abode  of  superstition, 
cannibal  orgies  are  celebrated.  Their  intercourse  with  vessels  that  have 
occasionally  touched  there  for  supplies  has  been  attended  with  few 
beneficial  results,  and  hardly  a  day  passes  without  a  conflict  between  two 
opposing  tribes  in  some  portion  of  the  group.  Each  valley  possesses  its 
king  and  chiefs  ;  the  superstitions  of  the  taboo  are  in  full  force — the 
chief  weapons,  muskets  and  spears. 

It  will  be  recollected  that  the  occupation  of  these  islands  by  the  French 
was  abandoned  a  few  years  since,  but  for  political  reasons  has  been  sub- 
sequently resumed.  Their  actual  possession  amounts  simply  to  a  cir- 
cumscribed fortification  on  Nuheva,  the  principal  island,  and  beyond  the 
reach  of  its  guns  it  would  be  unsafe  for  a  person  wearing  the  imperial 
uniform  to  venture  ;  nor  can  they  exhibit  a  shadow  of  power  in  any 
other  portion  of  the  group,  unless  among  a  limited  number  of  con- 
verts of  Romish  priests.  Their  nervousness  is  extreme  at  the  appear- 
ance of  a  vessel  designing  to  trade  with  the  natives  ;  and  their  restrictions, 
when  they  can  enforce  them,  amount  to  a  prohibition,  for  the  only  ar- 
ticles of  traffic  desired  by  the  Marquesans  are  those  by  law  made  con- 
traband, muskets  and  ammunition.  Usually,  a  frigate  and  a  land-force 
of  fifty  or  a  hundred  men  are  stationed  here. 

The  Marquesans  are  a  shade  lighter  in  complexion  than  the  Tahitians, 
and  the  fairest  and  most  comely  of  any  natives  in  the  Pacific — the  men 
strong  and  athletic,  their  faces  disfigured  by  tattooing,  a  practice  common 


390  Appendix  I. 


at  these  islands.  The  females  are  fascinating,  being  delicate  and  of 
symmetrical  form,  their  features  animated  with  seductive  smiles.  Their 
hands  are  often  fantastically  tattooed,  and  frequently  four  or  five  delicate 
lines  are  traced  upon  the  under  lip,  which  in  nowise  detract  from  their 
beauty. 

At  the  Samoan  Islands  there  is  no  acknowledged  king  or  supreme 
power,  each  chief  ruling  in  his  own  district.  An  inconsiderable  portion 
of  these  islands  only  have  been  converted  to  Christianity ;  and,  as  at 
Savaii,  many  of  the  inhabitants  in  their  habits  and  customs  approximate 
to  their  former  heathenism,  and  are  frequently  harassed  by  a  predatory 
warfare.  Upolu  is  the  principal  island,  on  account  of  its  excellent  har- 
bors, one  of  which,  Apia,  is  the  chief  station  or  nucleus  of  missionary 
.efforts.  A  monthly  paper  is  published  here,  called  the  Samoan  Reporter, 
containing  chiefly  notices  of  the  mission,  and  local  intelligence.  The 
natives  in  appearance  resemble  the  Tahitians,  but  are  more  modest  in 
their  deportment ;  and  those  professing  Christianity  are  the  most  exem- 
plary in  the  Pacific,  for  here  the  marriage  rite  is  respected. 

At  Tongatabu  the  natives  have  been  converted  to  Christianity  by  the 
Wesleyan  missionaries ;  through  necessity  industrious,  they  are,  like  the 
Samoans,  more  exemplary  in  their  morals  than  the  natives  of  the  Hawaiian 
or  Tahitian  Islands.  The  chiefs  are  elected,  and  their  power  limited,  while 
the  government  of  the  Hapai  and  Vavao  groups  adjoining  is  despotic. 

The  Hervey  Islands  have  their  kings  or  chiefs  of  districts  ;  these  natives 
have  also  been  reclaimed  from  idolatry  by  the  London  Missionary  Society, 
and  no  happier  picture  of  domestic  comfort  and  tranquillity  can  be  wit- 
nessed than  that  exhibited  in  their  present  social  condition. 

These  islands  are  seven  in  number,  arid  their  aggregate  extent  of  sur- 
face is  about  200  square  miles  ;  by  judicious  instruction,  aided  by  their 
somewhat  isolated  position,  being  500  miles  west  of  the  Society  Islands* 
and  absence  of  harbors  for  commercial  convenience,  their  inhabitants,  for 
habits  of  industry  and  correctness  of  moral  deportment,  are,  like  the 
Tongatabuans,  equally  exemplary.  Being  of  the  second-class  islands, 
(according  to  the  distinction  given,)  their  gradually  sloping  hills  and  fer- 
tile valleys  are  well  adapted  to  agricultural  pursuits',  and  their  fruitful 
groves  are  frequently  relieved  by  smiling  cultivations  tastefully  laid  out. 
It  is  remarkable  that  at  this  insignificant  group  more  small  coasting  ves- 
sels are  built  and  launched  than  at  the  Tahitian  Islands. 

The  Austral  Islands,  of  nearly  equal  extent,  are  the  southernmost  of 
Central  Polynesia,  some  of  them  extending  beyond  the  tropic  of  Capri- 
corn. With  reference  to  social  condition,  the  observations  on  the  Hervey 
Islands  will  apply  to  these,  though  the  natives  are  less  advanced  in 
civilization. 


A  Glance  at  Polynesia.  391 

The  final  and  most  important  considerations  relative  to  these  islands, 
groups  or  archipelagoes,  are  their  natural  advantages  and  resources,  trade 
or  commerce,  and  their  geographic  and  political  worth.  Not  the  least 
important  feature  are  their  facilities  for  intercommunication  afforded  by 
the  almost  uniform  winds  and  excellent  harbors ;  the  prevailing  winds 
.within  the  southern  tropic  vary  from  east  to  southeast,  while  north  of 
the  equator,  and  within  the  tropic  of  Cancer,  they  are  from  east  to  north- 
east ;  within  these  ranges  the  current  sets  slowly  to  the  westward.  The 
harbors  consist  of  indentations  or  bays  in  the  land,  but  are  often 
formed  by  massive  barriers  of  coral,  with  safe  and  easy  entrances  ;  and 
many  maritime  nations  might  envy  these  atoms  of  earth  their  havens 
of  safety.  A  fertile  soil  watered  by  numerous  streams,  having  suitable 
mill  sites,  a  salubrious  and  almost  uniform  climate,  and  the  absence  of 
venomous  reptiles,  are  a  combination  of  advantages  seldom  met  with  in 
other  lands.  If  for  resources  we  look  simply  to  their  spontaneous  pro- 
ductions, they  will  be  limited  indeed ;  for  groves  of  sandal^vrood  and 
choice  varieties  of  timber  can  exist  only  for  a  season,  should  convenience 
and  necessity  render  them  articles  of  commerce.  With  reference  to  the 
former,  the  Marquesas  Islands  alone  yield  sandal-wood  to  any  extent, 
and  these  groves  will  probably  long  continue  to  nourish  undisturbed, 
on  account  of  their  remoteness  from  the  Chinese  market,  about  6,000 
miles,  and  the  difficulty  of  inducing  natives  to  procure  it,  as  it  grows 
on  elevated  and  almost  inaccessible  ridges.  This  staple  commodity  for 
China  is  usually  procured  from  the  New  Hebrides  and  islands  adjacent, 
also  from  the  northern  and  western  coasts  of  Australia.  It  exists  in 
considerable  quantities  in  the  vicinity  of  Swan  River,  on  the  southwest 
coast,  as  far  south  as  latitude  32°,  and  was  by  the  early  settlers  fre- 
quently consumed  as  fuel,  being  ignorant  of  its  properties  or  value. 
From  this  point  these  groves,  with  various  intervals,  extend  towards 
the  north  ;  and  we  have  been  informed  by  an  American  shipmaster,  for 
many  years  a  resident  at  Swan  River,  and  who  on  his  own  account  has 
visited  many  unexplored  points  on  this  coast,  and  has  been  engaged  in 
the  trade  between  China,  Singapore  and  Australia,  that  a  cargo  of  this 
wood  procured  from  the  vicinity  of  Swan  River  brings  a  less  price 
in  Hong  Kong  than  that  obtained  farther  north,  so  expert  are  the 
Chinese  dealers,  who  have  no  knowledge  of  its  locality  ;  and  this  circum- 
stance, among  others,  shows  that  this  tree  requires  a  tropical  climate  to 
attain  perfection. 

The  valuable  timber  of  their  forests  may  in  future  years  prove  far  more 
profitable,  but  at  the  present  time  the  expense  and  difficulty  of  procuring 
it,  and  the  want  of  a  suitable  market,  where  the  manufacture  of  furni- 
ture will  be  found  cheaper  than  its  importation,  are  obstacles  in  the  way 


392  Appendix  I. 


of  its  becoming  an  article  of  commerce — at  least  for  the  present.  It  un- 
fortunately happens  that  the  most  valued  specimens  are  frequently  found 
growing  in  almost 'inaccessible  localities,  and  those  familiar  with  the 
general  aspect  of  volcanic  countries  may  form  an  idea  of  the  difficulty  of 
obtaining  it.  Logs  are  usually  converted  into  boards  by  means  of  pit- 
saws  ;  and  to  a  limited  extent,  and  for  ordinary  purposes,  beautifully 
variegated  and  substantial  specimens  may  be  procured  at  reasonable 
rates,  susceptible  of  a  high  polish,  and  which,  if  fashioned  into  orna- 
mental furniture,  would  gratify  the  most  fastidious  taste  of  the  boudoir. 

Since  these  islands  possess  no  available  mineral  wealth,  it  is  obvious 
that  their  prosperity  is  to  be  found  in  agricultural  developments  ;  this 
applies  chiefly  to  the  Hawaiian,  Georgian,  Society,  and  Samoan  Islands. 
The  principal  varieties  of  the  indigenous  fruits  of  Polynesia  are  common 
to  all,  but  in  addition  to  these,  various  other  tropical  fruits,  and  vege- 
tables of  the  temperate  zone,  have  been  introduced,  and  thrive  as  if  in 
parent  %oil.  Among  these  are  the  orange,  lemon,  lime,  fig,  grape,  pine- 
apple, cherimoya,  guava,  coifee,  cotton,  tobacco,  indigo,  mandioca,  &c., 
together  with  a  variety  of  esculents,  and  at  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  the 
Irish  potato,  the  only  group  of  Polynesia  where  it  can  be  procured.  Of 
domestic  animals,  horses,  asses,  cattle,  goats,  sheep,  (swine  are  indige- 
nous,) and  numerous  varieties  of  poultry,  have  been  introduced,  and 
which  in  some  of  the  islands  have  exwnsively  propagated. 

At  present,  the  staple  exports  of  the  Hawaiian  kingdom  are,  sugar, 
coffee,  syrup,  hides,  potatoes  and  vegetables,  and,  to  a  limited  extent, 
fruits,  together  with  an  annual  surplus  of  imported  merchandise.  Those 
of  the  Georgian  and  Society  Islands  are,  oranges,  lime-juice,  cocoanuts, 
pearls,  mother-of-pearl  from  the  Paumotu  fishery,  and,  in  small  quantities, 
arrow-root  and  cocoanut  oil ;  while  the  Samoan,  Marquesas,  Hervey,  and 
Austral  Islands,  are  visited  only  for  recruits,  or  cargoes  of  swine  and  poul- 
try, and  smaller  items  of  trade.  With  the  exception  of  the  pearl-shell  and 
cocoanut  oil,  which  are  shipped  to  England  and  Sydney,  the  other  exports 
are  conveyed  chiefly  by  American  traders  to  the  California  market. 

For  the  growth  of  coffee  and  s.ugar-cane,  those  staple  products  of  inter- 
tropical  countries,  the  soil  of  all  these  islands  is  well  adapted,  as  results 
have  shown.  Thousands  of  acres  are  lying  uncultivated,  which,  with 
proper  attention  bestowed  upon  them,  would  yield  ample  and  profitable 
returns,  and  the  peculiar  richness  of  the  soil  obviates  the  necessity  of 
annual  manuring  for  years  to  come.  At  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  an  estate 
may  be  purchased  in  fee-simple,  but  at  the  Tahitian  Islands  the  na- 
tives are  averse  to  selling  their  lands,  though,  what  is  equivalent,  they 
will  furnish  a  transferable  lease  for  any  term  of  years,  with  the  privi- 
lege of  renewal  ad  libitum^  and  that  for  a  sum  comparatively  trifling. 


A  Glance  at  Polynesia.  393 

The  thought  of  parting  with  their  lands  forever  is  unpleasant  to  them ; 
but  taking  into  account  the  present  decrease  of  population  and  their  short- 
sightedness, a  lease  may  be  so  drawn  that  at  the  period  of  its  expiration 
both  heirs  and  assigns  will  have  ceased  to  exist. 

It  may  be  safely  asserted  that  these  groups  will  never  be  reclaimed 
from  their  present  condition  by  the  race  that  now  inhabits  them.  The 
experiment  has  been  fairly  and  thoroughly  tested,  backed  by  plausible 
theories,  and  the  most  favorable  results  are  witnessed  at  Hawaii.  To 
inherent  indolence  and  lack  of  energy,  noticeable  throughout  the  entire 
Polynesian  family,  must  be  added  its  rapid  numerical  ^decrease — a  cir- 
cumstance alone  that  confirms  the  assertion.  But  a  remedy  is  happily 
at  hand  ;  the  tens  of  thousands  of  poverty-stricken  laborers  that  throng 
the  Asiatic  shores,  known  as  Chinese  and  Lascar  coolies,  furnish  the  de- 
sired substitute.  Together  with  African  slaves,  they  have  developed  the 
resources  of  the  Isles  of  France  and  Bourbon  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  and 
are  indispensable  to  the  prosperity  of  the  English,  Spanish,  and  Dutch 
East  India  possessions.  The  Lascars  are  milder  in  disposition,  tractable, 
and  more  easily  managed  than  the  Chinese.  Recourse  has  been  had 
to  this  experiment  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  in  1851,  and  subsequently. 
Those  imported  were  from  Amoy.  Parties  contracting  for  them  pay 
from  fifty  to  sixty  dollars  for  the  passage  of  each,  after  engaging 
them  for  a  term  of  years  at  the  nominal  sum  of  two  or  three  dollars  per 
month.  To  a  considerable  extent,  they  have  been  exported  to  Peru,  to 
labor  amid  the  guano  fields  of  the  Chincha  Islands,  where  mercenary 
speculators  have  reduced  them  to  a  worse  than  Egyptian  bondage.  It 
has  been  surmised  that  the  French  have  entertained  this  project  of  intro- 
ducing them  at  Tahiti,  and  which,  if  put  into  execution,  will  be  the  first 
creditable  enterprise  that  will  have  attended  their  conquests  in  this 
ocean.  For  the  cultivation  of  their  chief  article  of  food,  rice,  the  Ta- 
hitian  and  Society  Islands  possess  better  natural  facilities  than  any 
others ;  broad  tracts  of  low  and  swampy  land  frequently  occur  near 
the  shore,  and  the  formation  of  their  valleys  admit  of  irrigation  to  any 
extent.  Rice  planted  at  Raiatea  by  way  of  experiment,  thrived  re- 
markably, though  unaided  in  its  growth  by  the  systematic  attention  which 
the  Chinese  are  accustomed  to  bestow  upon  its  cultivation.  For  present 
purposes  this  commodity  may  be  procured  from  the  island  of  Bali,  off  the 
eastern  coast  of  Java,  one  of  the  East  Indian  magazines,  for  the  trifling 
sum  of  one  half  cent  to  two  cents  per  pound. 

The  commerce  of  the  Hawaiian  and  Tahitian  Islands^is  greater  than 
would  at  first  be  supposed  from  their  comparatively  limited  extent  and. 
partially  developed  resources.  This  is  derived  chiefly  from  the  immense 
whaling  fleet  in  this  ocean,  trading  vessels,  and  those  sailing  between, 


394  Appendix  I. 


California  and  Australia,  and  are  resorted  to  by  them  as  convenient 
resting-points. 

In  alluding  to  the  principal  tracks  of  commerce  across  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
it  may  be  necessary  to  premise,  for  the  convenience  of  those  unacquainted 
with  the  nautical  phenomena  influencing  navigation,  that  although  the 
direct  distance  from  point  to  point  is  given,  it  is  necessarily  increased 
by  reference  to  prevailing  winds  and  6urrents.  For  example,  the  port 
of  San  Francisco  is  in  lat.  37°  48'  N.,  Ion.  122°  21'  W.,  and  Shanghai  is 
in  lat.  30°  1'  N.,  Ion.  122°  6'  E.,  and  the  shortest  distance  between  them 
is  5,400  miles,  but  owing  to  the  westerly  winds  prevailing  without  the 
tropics,  vessels  sailing  from  the  former  to  the  latter  port  would  proceed 
in  a  southwest  direction  towards  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  sail  west- 
ward within  the  tropics,  in  a  course  from  eight  to  twelve  hundred  miles 
south  of  the  direct  line  of  distance,  and  when  within  about  2,000  miles 
of  the  China  coast,  steer  gradually  to  the  northward.  The  distance  from 
San  Francisco  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  is  about  2,100  miles,  and  from 
thence  to  Shanghai  4,400  miles,  and  allowing  for  necessary  deviations,  a 
distance  of  more  than  7,000  miles  is  traversed  in  sailing  from  one  port 
to  the  other.  On  their  return,  an  opposite  course  is  pursued,  vessels 
steering  to  the  northeast ;  those  from  Hong  Kong  through  the  Formosa 
Channel,  and  along  the  coast  towards  Chusan,  if  the  monsoon  will  per- 
mit, or  south  of  Fprmosa  and  between  the  Ladrone  and  Bonin  Islands. 
A  circular  course  of  sailing  is  found  to  be  the  most  expeditious  in  abridg- 
ing space,  and  for  the  benefit  of  strong  westerly  winds,  vessels  sometimes 
sail  as  far  as  lat.  44°  N.  on  the  return  voyage. 

Honolulu,  with  comparatively  slight  deviation,  is  situated  in  the  track 
of  many  important  routes,  besides  being  in  itself  a  depot  of  considerable 
importance;  it  lies  in  lat.  21°  19'  N.,  and  Ion.  157°  52'  W.  From  San 
Francisco  to  China,  from  the  former  port  to  Australia,  no  great  deviation 
is  required,  and  it  is  directly  in  the  proposed  route  of  steamers  from 
Panama  to  Shanghai,  being  distant  from  the  former  port  4,500  miles.  Its 
distance  from  Valparaiso  is  5,760  miles,  and  from  Sydney,  4.440  miles. 
The  ports  of  the  kingdom  of  which  it  is  the  capital,  constitute  the  nucleus 
of  our  whaling  fleet  in  this  ocean.  Independent  of  their  regular  in- 
tercourse with  America,  England,  and  the  various  maritime  countries 
bordering  on  the  Pacific,  they  are  frequently  visited  by  transient  trading 
vessels. 

Since  the  discovery  of  the  Tahitian  Islands  by  Captain  Wallis,  in  1767, 

they  have  continued  up  to  the  period  of  their  conquest  by  the  French 

without  any  important  commercial  or  political  change ;  but  the   golden 

•  discoveries  in  California  and  Australia,  attended  by  the  impetus  given  to 

commercial  enterprise  and  its  almost  incredible  results,  will  have  a  ten- 


A  Glance  at  Polynesia.      .  395 

i 

dency  to  render  this  heretofore  isolated  group  of  greater  importance. 
The  harbor  of  Papeete,  in  lat.  17°  31'  S.,  Ion.  149°  34'  W.,  is  situated  in 
a  direct  line  between  Panama,  that  thoroughfare  of  nations,  and  South 
Australia,  and  is  about  midway  between  the  two.  Persons  designing  to 
visit  Australia  by  the  Isthmus,  are  ordinarily  compelled  to  reach  it  by 
the  way  of  San  Francisco,  distant  from  Panama  3,240  miles,  which  being 
6,500  miles  from  Sydney,  occasions  a  detour  from  the  direct  route  of  about 
2,000  miles,  attended  by  additional  expense  and  delay.  The  "  Australian 
Direct  Steam  Navigation  Company,"  with  a  capital  of  £1,000,000  in 
40,000  shares  of  £25  each,  have  established  a  route  from  England  to  that 
colony,  and  which  it  is  contemplated  will  soon  be  in  operation:  The 
route  proposed  is  from  Milford  Haven  to  Aspinwall,  distance  4,500  miles  ; 
transit  of  Isthmus,  46  miles  ;  from  Panama  to  Tahiti,  4,488  miles,  and 
from  thence  to  Sydney  3,351  miles,  making  an  aggregate  distance  of  12,385 
miles,  which  it  is  proposed  to  accomplish  with  steamers  of  3,000  tons 
burden  in  55  days,  giving  an  average  rate  of  speed,  including  stoppages, 
of  about  225  miles  per  day. 

As  a  coaling  depot  for  this  route,  no  better  than  Tahiti  could  be 
selected  :  its  safe  and  spacious  harbor,  convenience  for  obtaining  sup- 
plies, and  facilities  unsurpassed  by  any  other  port  in  the  Pacific  for 
procuring  pure  fresh  water  from  the  mountains,  are  its  chief  recom- 
mendations. A  few  days,  the  necessary  interval  required  for  recruiting, 
passed  among  its  groves  and  shady  walks,  could  not  fail  to  be  agree- 
able to  passengers,  and  a  charm  would  be  imparted  to  the  otherwise 
monotonous  voyage. 

The  only  objection  that  could  possibly  arise  as  to  adopting  this  island 
for  a  depot  would  be  the  anticipation  of  political  discord  between  England 
and  France,  a  contingency  which  it  is  hoped  may  continue  invisibly  re- 
mote. In  this  event,  the  island  of  Raiatea,  next  in  extent,  and  one 
hundred  miles  west,  having  the  most  extensive  and  accessible  harbor  in 
Polynesia,  may  offer  equal  facilities.  Owing  to  its  numerous  passages  or 
channels  through  the  reef,  vessels  may  enter  and  depart  with  a  leading 
wind.  It  has  been  suggested  that  steamers  may  possibly  touch  at  the 
Gambier  group  instead,  constituting  the  southeastern  extremity  of  the 
Dangerous  Archipelago,  but  this  group  has  nothing  to  recommend  it  for 
such  a  depot,  unless  steamers  should  deem  it  expedient  to  deviate  from 
a  straight  course  for  the  convenience  of  westerly  winds.  They  are  under 
French  dominion,  about  800  miles  s.  E.  of  the  direct  route,  and  are  cir- 
cumscribed in  extent,  being  comparatively  low  islands ;  excepting  a  good 
harbor,  they  have  nothing  further  to  recommend  them. 

The  coals  for  these  island  stations  will  be  procured  chiefly  from  Aus- 
tralia. Previous  to  the  discovery  of  gold  in  that  country,  they  could  be 


396  Appendix  I. 


purchased  for  about  $8.00  per  ton  ;  but  subsequently,  since  the  laborers 
in  the  copper  and  coal  mines,  together  with  the  majority  of  the  laboring 
classes,  have  turned  their  attention  to  the  accumulation  of  wealth  among 
The  auriferous  lands,  the  price  of  labor  has  been  greatly  enhanced,  and 
has  had  a  corresponding  effect  upon  the  price  of  coal,  so  that  for  the  last 
two  years  it  could  not  be  delivered  from  the  port  of  Papeete  for  less  than 
$28.00  or  §30.00  per  ton.  A  steamer  that  sailed  from  California  for  Mel- 
bourne during  the  early  part  of  last  year,  by  the  way  of  Tahiti  and 
Sydney,  was  compelled  to  disburse,  including  outfit,  $27,000  before  reach- 
ing her"  port  of  destination,  while  her  receipts  for  passage  money  did  not 
exceed  $18,000.  We  noticed  in  May  last  an  agent  of  the  French  Protec- 
torate in  Melbourne,  contracting  for  coals  in  anticipation  of  the  arrival 
of  steamers.  If  purchased  at  that  time,  the  original  cost,  together  with 
freighting  to  Tahiti,  will  render  them  too  expensive  to  entertain  a  hope 
for  profitable  steam  voyaging,  if  companies  are  to  depend  on  the  French 
Government  for  supplies.  A  company  should  have  its  own  depot, 
purchase  its  own  coals,  and  either  own  or  charter  vessels  for  carrying 
them. 

Tahiti  is  frequently  visited  by  vessels  from  California  to  Australia, 
and  vice  versa,  the  wind  being  favorable  both  ways.  To  the  latter  port, 
they  are  favored  by  easterly  winds  until  after  crossing  the  southern 
tropic  ;  on  their  return,  it  is  found  expedient  to  sail  almost  due  east, 
near  the  30th  parallel  of  south  latitude,  and  to  cross  the  tropic  either 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Austral  Islands,  or  farther  east  towards  Pit- 
cairn's  Island.  Between  Valparaiso  and  Tahiti  there  is  considerable  in- 
tercourse, the  distance  being  about  4,200  miles.  The  distance  from 
Papeete  to  Honolulu  is  2,350  miles,  and  between  the  two  there  is  a  tran- 
sient trade  in  surplus  merchandise. 

In  position  and  natural  advantages,  the  Navigator  Islands  have  much 
to  recommend  them,  lying  almost  in  a  direct  line  from  San  Francisco  to 
Sydney.  The  distance  from  the  former  port  to  the  harbor  of  Apia,  in  lat 
13°  49'  S.,  Ion.  171°  41'  W.,  is  4,140  miles,  and  thence  to  Sydney,  2,400 
miles.  These  islands,  1,200  miles  west  of  Tahiti,  are  independent, 
the  policy  of  European  governments  having  as  yet  deemed  them  un- 
worthy of  notice.  Should  a  line  of  steamers  be  established  between 
the  two  ports  above  mentioned,  a  depot  at  these  islands  would  tend 
greatly  towards  bringing  into  notice  the  thousands  of  acres  of  valuable 
land  now  lying  unimproved,  and  which  must  ultimately  prove  the  basis 
of  their  future  worth.  Since  the  emigration  from  California  to  Australia 
has  increased  so  rapidly,  they  have  been  frequently  visited  by  passenger 
vessels,  and,  as  heretofore,  bf  American  whalers. 
In  noticing  the  regular  channels  of  commerce,  we  must  not  overlook 


A  Glance  at  Polynesia.  397 

the  small  trading  vessels  that  cruise  among  the  groups  of  this  ocean  for 
pearl  and  tortoise  shell,  sandal-wood,  biche  de  mer,  cocoanut  oil,  stock, 
&c.,  all  combining  to  link  together  this  island-world. 


Since  the  preceding  was  written,  no  movement  on  the  part  of  either 
established  or  projected  companies  would  imply  that  the  enterprise  of 
Pacific  Steam  Navigation  between  the  East  and  Western  Continents  is 
at  present  deemed  practically  feasible.  The  immense  emigration  from 
Australia  to  California  and  vice  versa,  also  from  China  to  the  latter  port, 
has  in  a  measure  subsided.  Our  clipper  ships,  of  remarkable  speed, 
aided  by  scientific  discoveries  which  materially  abridge  time  and  space, 
testify  their  adequacy  to  commercial  necessities,  and  the  expense  attend- 
ing the  transportation  of  either  freight  or  passengers  is  trifling  in  com- 
parison when  applied  to  steamers.  However,  the  recent  discovery  of 
coal  mines  on  the  Pacific  coast  may  change  the  aspect  of  affairs.  In  the 
vicinity  of  Valparaiso,  a  valuable  beA  of  this  indispensable  has  been 
found,  and  contractors  have  offered  to  furnish  it  at  the  almost  unprece- 
dented low  price  of  six  dollars  per  ton.  The  recent  opening  of  Japan, 
where  coal  is  said  to  exist  in  abundance,  may  alter  materially  the  present 
means  of  intercommunication. 

The  following  paragraph  from  a  foreign  paper  appears  to  be  a  scientific 
embodiment  of  facts  upon  this  subject ;  showing  that  the  present  overland 
route  to  China  is  the  most  expeditious,  until  the  construction  of  a  rail- 
road across  our  continent,  which  is  destined  to  revolutionize* the  present 
channels  of  commerce  : — 

"  At  a  meeting  of  the  members  of  the  British  Association  for  the  Advancement 
of  Science,  held  at  Hull,  on  the  14th  September,  the  Rev.  C.  G.  Nicolay  dis- 
coursed, in  the  geographical  and  ethnological  section,  upon  the  importance  of 
certain  places  in  the  Pacific  with  reference  to  great  circle  routes  across  that  ocean. 

"  The  general  want  of  appreciation  of  great  circle  sailing  is  evidenced  by  the 
routes  selected  by  steam  packet  companies,  both  to  the  east  and  to  the  west. 
This  has  arisen  from  the  habitual  disk  of  Mercator's  projection.  To  facilitate  the 
consideration  of  the  subject,  a  stereographic  chart  of  the  Pacific,  showing  the 
lineal  concentricity  of  its  shores,  has  been  constructed  ;  great  circles  have  been  laid 
down  on  a  Mercator's  chart,  between  many  of  the  most  important  places  in  the 
world,  and  tables  of  distances  have  been  completely  calculated.  From. these  the 
distances  involved  in  the  Pacific  route  to  Australia,  via  the  Isthmus  of  Panama, 
appear  to  be,  from  Land's-End  to  Panama,  4,369  geographical  miles  ;  from  Pana- 
ma to  Sydney,  7,680  miles  ; — making  altogether  12,049  miles.  But  from  the 
Land's-End  to  Hobart  Town,  via  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  is  only  11,200  miles — 
849  miles  shorter.  The  facilities  afforded  on  the  route  from  Panama  are,  how- 
ever, great.  The  Galapagos  Islands,  where  the  existence  of  coal  is  reported, 
afford  a  refuge  from  the  horrible  climate  of  the* Isthmus,  and  they  offer  every  ad- 
vantage for  a  depot.  The  steam  company  formed  for  the  purpose  of  effecting 


398  Appendix  I. 


communication  by  this  route,  proposes  Tahiti  as  the  intermediate  depot,  but  Ta- 
hiti lies  far  out  of  the  shortest  track,  and  is  dangerous  of  access  from  the  east. 
Easter  Island  lies  nearest  the  direct  line,  and,  if  its  harbor  be  sufficient,  is  well 
suited  in  other  respects. 

"The  Sandwich  Islands  present  themselves  as  the  most  important  insular  posi- 
tion in  the  North  Pacific.  They  are  distant  respectively  from  Vancouver's  Island, 
2,293  miles  ;  San  Francisco,  2,083  ;  Central  America,  4,023  ;  Callao,  5,060  ;  Val- 
paraiso, 5,905  ;  Japan,  3,853  ;  Chusan,  5,301  ;  Singapore,  5,832  ;  Sydney,  3,500  ; 
Auckland,  3,817. 

"  The  conclusions  come  to  by  Mr.  Nicolay  are,  that  what  is  now  called  the  over- 
land route  to  China  ought  to  be  the  most  rapid,  until  one  is  opened  across  North 
America.  That  by  the  Cape  has  the  next  preference,  while  the  advantages  of 
that  by  Panama  are  almost  exclusively  confined  to  the  Southern  States  of  the 
Union  and  the  West  Indies  ;  and  with  respect  to  them,  it  will  be  superseded  by 
the  overland  route.  British  Northwest  America,  Mr.  Nicolay  considers  more  fa- 
vorably situated  than  any  other  part  of  the  coast  in  the  Pacific  for  commanding 
the  trade  of  that  ocean  ;  and  the  establishment  of  rapid  communication  with  it, 
and  the  development  of  its  resources,  are,  therefore,  objects  of  the  first  import- 


APPENDIX  II. 


THE  ISLAND  KINGDOM  OF  THE  NORTH  PACIFIC. 

Territorial  Extent— Comparison  with  Cuba  instituted— Natural  Conformation— Soil  and  Pro- 
ductions—  Climate  and  attendant  Phenomena — Chief  Towns  —  Inter-Communication — 
Steam  Navigation — Statistics  for  1853 — National  Legislature — Imports — Exports — Rev- 
enue, &c.  —  Whale  Fishery  —  Department  of  Interior  — Public  Instruction— Finance- 
Foreign  Relations— Census— Agriculture— Value  of  Staple  Commodities— Sugar  Planting 
— Retrospective  View  of  Statistics — Annexation  Considered — Comparison  of  Results — 
Capability  of  Hawaiians — American  Politics  and  Interests  Predominant  —  Prospective 
National  Decrease— Policy  of  European  Nations— The  Independence  or  Possession  of 
these  Islands  Important  to  the  United  States — Conclusion. 

HAWAII,  as  a  kingdom,  merits  a  greater  degree  of  attention  than  the 
casual  and  imperfect  remarks  of  the  preceding  chapter.  But  having  al- 
ready trespassed  beyond  original  limits,  a  brief  allusion  only  is  proposed 
to  its  geography,  resources,  and  commercial  relations,  and  offer  per- 
haps, a  remark  on  the  contingency  of  its  ultimately  becoming  an  integral 
portion  of  our  confederacy.  No  other  nation  exists  whose  laws,  interests, 
and  to  a  certain  extent  social  relations,  have  so  strong  an  affinity  for  our 
own.  Already  have  the  varied  classes  of  society,  and  even  opposing 
factions,  manifested  a  unity  of  sentiment  on  the  absorbing  topic  of  politi- 
cal union  with  the  State  that  has  guided  their  own  to  maturity.  There 
is  no  other  nation  in  whose  behalf  American  sympathies  have  been  so 
strongly  and  deservedly  enlisted.  Yet,  so  long  as  the  sacred  obligations 
of  international  law  are  respected,  no  fostering  aid  is  requisite ;  possess- 
ing in  itself  the  elements  of  prosperity,  Hawaii  needs  only  the  enact- 
ments of  a  liberal  government  to  move  like  a  sphere  in  its  orbit  through 
the  system  of  nations. 

Hawaii  nei,  or  the  kingdom  of  Hawaii,  consists  of  eight  habitable 
islands  :  Hawaii,  (the  largest,  and  from  which  its  name  is  derived,)  Maui, 
Oahu,  Kauai,  Molokai,  Lanai,  Niihau,  and  Kahulawe.  In  addition  to 
these  are  the  rocky  and  insignificant  islets,  Lehua,  Molokini,  and  Kaula. 

These  islands  lie  in  the  North  Pacific  Oc^ean,  in  an  E.  s.  E.  and  w.  N.  w. 
direction,  between  the  parallels  of  18°  50'  and  22°  20'  N.  lat.,  and  between 


400  Appendix  II. 


the  meridians  of  154°  55'  and  160°  15'  Ion.  W.  from  Greenwich.  Com- 
bining agricultural  with  commercial  importance,  they  rank  as  follows  : 
Oahu,  Maui,  Hawaii,  and  Kauai,  all  of  which  have  foreign  ports  of  entry. 
Though  portions  of  Molokai  are  unsurpassed  in  fertility,  a  broad  and 
desolate  tract  stretches  away  on  the  north  and  west.  Lanai,  except  in 
some  of  its  valleys  and  upon  its  summit,  which  is  densely  wooded,  is 
adapted  only  to  grazing.  Niihau,  though  smaller,  is  more  fertile.  Ka- 
hulawe  is  barren,  and  tenanted  almost  exclusively  by  wild  goats.  It  has 
been  used  as  a  penal  abode.  The  altitude  of  the  summits  of  these  islands 
(save  the  two  latter)  ranges  from  not  less  than  1,500  to  14,000  feet.  Their 
superficial  area,  &c.,  has  been  estimated  as  follows  : — 


Name. 
Hawaii  

Length. 

Miles. 

88 

Breadth. 
Miles. 

90 

Height  in  ft. 
14,000 

Square  miles. 
4,000 

Maui  

48 

29 

10,000 

600 

Oahu 

46 

23 

4,000 

520 

Kauai 

33 

28 

5,000 

520 

Molokai 

.    .   .        40 

9 

2,800 

170 

Lanai 

20 

12 

1,600 

100 

Niihau 

7 

7 

800 

80 

Kahulawe  .  .  , 

11 

8 

200 

60 

This  exhibits  an  aggregate  area  of  about  6,000  square  miles. 

As  Hawaii  and  Cuba,  at  the  present  day,  furnish  topics  of  political  inter- 
est, a  very  brief  comparison  is  instituted  ;  though  geographically  impor- 
tant, the  entire  group  is  inferior  to  Cuba  in  extent  and  resources.  Were 
these  islands  joined  to  each  other  in  a  direct  line,  their  aggregate  length 
would  be  less  than  300  miles,  and  their  greatest  breadth,  90  miles  ;  the 
same  estimate  applied  to  the  other  would  be  800  and  130  miles.  As  the 
group  exists,  the  extremes  of  Hawaii  and  Kauai  are  distant  from  each 
other  about  350  miles.  The  superficial  area  of  Cuba  is  more  than  seven 
times  greater  than  that  of  Hawaii ;  the  former  country  favors  the  con- 
struction of  railroads,  while  the  natural  formation  and  commerce  of  the 
latter  will  neither  admit  nor  require  them.  To  institute  a  comparison 
between  the  exports  and  imports  of  Hawaii  and  that  of  a  country  whose 
revenue  is  nearly  $10,000,OQO  per  annum,  is  deemed  superfluous,  for 
while  the  one  has  had  an  economic  existence  for  centuries,  the  other  has 
barely  emerged  from  infancy. 

Comparatively  a  small  proportion  of  the  6,000  square  miles  of  this 
kingdom  is  arable  land,  though  its  extent  can  be  greatly  augmented, 
owing  to  facilities  for  irrigation  and  other  advantages.  Except  that  of 
Honolulu,  these  islands  possess  no  harbors  where  safe  anchorage  may  be 
obtained  for  vessels  during  all  winds,  though  at  nearly  every  important 


The  Island  Kingdom  of  the  North  Pacific.  401 

point  the  material  exists,  aided  by  the  natural  conformation  of  the  shore, 
to  construct  artificial  ones.  Eligible  mill  sites  are  abundant  throughout 
the  group,  but  there  are  no  streams  navigable  for  other  than  boats,  and 
this  for  only  a  short  distance. 

At  times,  the  shores  are  singularly  bold,  and  again  they  recede  gradu- 
ally from  the  sea,  with  an  almost  imperceptible  ascent,  for  thousands  of 
feet.  Nowhere  do  they  exhibit  the  low  swampy  lands,  liable  to  overflow 
from  the  sea,  that  are  witnessed  among  other  islands  in  this  ocean.  By 
artificial  means,  valleys  and  level  tracts  are  irrigated  for  the  cultivation 
of  the  staple  article  of  native  diet,  taro ;  these  localities  are  equally 
adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  rice.  The  soil  is  of  every  variety,  from  un- 
surpassed fertility  to  that  of  the  most  barren  and  worthless  description  ; 
perhaps  no  group  in  the  Pacific,  proportionably  to  extent  of  territory, 
will  display  so  broad  an  area  of  waste  land. 

The  soil,  having  reference  t)  locality,  will  yield  every  description  of 
tropical  products,  as  is  sufficiently  proved  by  a  large  family  of  exotics, 
which  would  almost  be  regarded  as  indigenous.  As  observed  elsewhere, 
this  group  possesses  natural  advantages  for  rearing  plants  of  the  tem- 
perate zone,  where  they  can  be  easily  accessible.  This  is  owing  to  the 
conformation  of  the  elevated  lands,  which  are  either  inclined  planes,  or  a 
rolling  surface  of  gentle  slopes.  Fruit-trees,  grains,  and  a  variety  of  es- 
culents have  been  introduced,  and  in  these  upland  districts  thrive  as  if 
in  parent  soil.  This  applies  almost  exclusively  to  Hawaii  and  Maui. 

The  climate,  if  equalled,  is  certainly  unsurpassed  by  that  of  any 
other  portion  of  the  globe,  for  it  exists  in  every  variety — dry,  moist, 
and  with  every  gradation  of  heat  and  cold,  from  the  torrid  to  the 
frigid  zones.  In  explanation  of  the  first,  it  will  be  necessary  to  state  that 
the  principal  islands  would  present  two  broad  distinctions  in  a  summary 
of  meteorological  observations  :  these  are  the  natural  phenomena  peculiar 
to  their  "  windward"  and  "  leeward"  portions.  By  the  former  are  meant 
those  districts  exposed  to  the  full  sweep  of  the  N.  E.  trade-winds  ;  and 
by  the  latter,  such  as  are  sheltered  from  them.  Condensed  vapors  of  the 
ocean  are  borne  along  as  clouds,  that  gather  around  lofty  summits  like  a 
vast  reservoir,  and,  bursting,  shed  perennial  showers  over  the  land, 
which  clothe  it  with  dense  forests  and  a  mantle  of  perpetual  verdure  ; 
from  the  mountains  gurgle  innumerable  rills,  and  larger  streams,  some- 
times swelling  to  torrents,  rush  foaming  and  leaping  from  crag  to  crag,  or 
in  eddying  floods,  roar  through  the  dark  ravines.  Thus,  while  the  wind- 
ward portions  have  a  surfeit  of  moisture,  the  leeward  districts  are  fre- 
quently parched  with  drought,  and  only  recover  their  natural  freshness 
during  the  winter  months  or  rainy  season,  which,  with  frequent  inter- 
mission, continues  for  about  four  months,  while  during  the  remaining 

2G 


402  Appendix  II. 


eight  months  the  weather  is  almost  uniformly  fine.  The  average  tem- 
perature of  the  eastern  sides  is  about  72°  Fah.  ;  and  for  the  western,  at 
least  four  degrees  should  be  added.  During  the  winter  months  the 
thermometer  sometimes  indicates  60°,  and  continues  so  for  several  days. 
This  applies  to  lands  bordering. the,  sea-shore  ;  by  ascending  the  mount- 
ains, almost  any  degree  of  temperature  may  be  obtained. 

The  principal  towns  of  this  kingdom  are  as  follows  :  Honolulu,  the 
capital,  island  of  Oahu  ;  Lahaina,  Maui  ;  Hilo,  Hawaii ;  and  Hanalei  and 
Waimea  on  Kauai.  Though  Kawaihae  and  Kealakekua  are  ports  of 
entry,  they  merit  no  consideration  as  towns,  being  merely  channels  for 
the  surplus  produce  of  Hawaii.  The  mountain  villages,  such  as  Waimea, 
Ulupalakua,Makawao,  &c.,  are  few ;  they  consist  usually  of  a  limited  num- 
ber of  native  families  residing  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  a  foreigner's 
estate.  As  our  States  are  divided  into  counties,  these  islands  are  por- 
tioned into  districts,  whose  bounds  (frequently  with  great  irregularity) 
radiate  chiefly  from  the  centre  to  the  sea  ;  subdivisions  are  native  ham- 
lets or  villages  ;  every  land  or  locality,  however  insignificant,  possesses 
its  name.  Communication  between  these  towns  or  districts  of  an  island 
is  by  sea  and  land  ;  recourse  is  frequently  had  to  the  former,  when  bad 
•roads  and  natural  obstructions  render  a  land  journey  fatiguing.  Except 
•by  water,  there  are  no  public  conveyances  ;  unless  in  the  vicinity  of 
'Honolulu,  travelling  is  performed  almost  exclusively  on  horseback. 
Honolulu  is  the  nucleus  of  these  inter-island  routes  ;  a  foreigner  or  native 
speaks  of  going  from  a  distant  portion  of  the  kingdom  to  the  capital,  as  a 
citizen  of  the  United  States  would  of  visiting  New- York.  Between 
'Honolulu  and  Lahaina  (seventy-five  miles)  packets  perform  trips  regu- 
larly, while  numerous  coasters  are  constantly  visiting  other  portions  of 
the  group,  as  freight  or  passage  may  offer.  Recently,  December  19th, 
1853,  a  company  of  five  persons  have  received  a  charter  under  the  name 
of  "  The  Hawaiian  Steam  Navigation  Company.  "  Liberal  privileges 
'have  been  granted,  and  with  certain  restrictions,  (including  the  provision 
that  another  steamer  of  at  least  350  tons  burden,  in  addition  to  the  one 
already  employed,  shall  navigate  Hawaiian  waters  within  twelve  months 
from  the  date  of  charter,)  the  company  receives  the  exclusive  monopoly 
of  steam  navigation  among  these  islands  for  ten  years.  This  new  feature 
of  commercial  enterprise  is  regarded  with  interest  by  all,  as  another  evi- 
dence of  national  prosperity.  In  addition  to  the  regular  packets  plying 
between  San  Francisco  and  Honolulu,  and  the  annual  visits  of  the 
whaling  fleet,  the  islands  have  commercial  relations  with  the  principal 
maritime  cities  of  Europe  and  America. 

Without  comment  upon  the  growth  of  Hawaiian  commerce,  the  fol- 
lowing summary  of  statistics,  compiled  fronf  official  reports,  pub- 


The  Island  Kingdom  of  the  North  Pacific.  403 

lished  by  the  Polynesian,  will  exhibit  at  a  glance  the  commercial  and 
financial  condition  of  these  islands.  It  may  be  premised,  that  the  sudden 
increase  of  imports  and  domestic  exports  during  the  year  1850,  beyond 
those  of  preceding  years,  was  owing  to  the  unprecedented  immigration 
into  California  that  followed  the  discovery  of  the  gold-placers, 

The  National  Legislature  assembled  on  the  5th  of  April,  1854.  The 
House  of  Nobles  has  25  members,  including  the  king,  queen,  and  four 
ministers,  of  whom  three  are  foreigners  ;  the  remaining  members  are  na- 
tive. The  Lower  House  has  27  members,  including  8  foreigners. 

STATISTICS  FOR  THE  YEAR  1853. 

The  value  of  foreign  imports  is  $1,281,951.18  ;  value  of  foreign  goods 
re-exported,  $191,397.66  ;  value  of  domestic  exports,  $281,599.17;  reve- 
nue, $326,620 ;  disbursements,  $265,795. 

Total  dutiable  imports,  $ly!60,355.13  ;  duty  free,  $79,402.80  ;  entered 
in  bond,  $16,284.35  ;  withdrawn  from  bond  for  consumption,  $25,908.90, 
giving  the  total  value  as  above. 

Of  the  dutiable  goods,  $587,770.29  were  from  the  Atlantic  States  ;  and 
$367,149.64  from  the  Pacific  side,  or  California  and  Oregon.  From  China 
the  imports  were  $42,056.36  ;  from  Chili,  $38,090.30  ;  Great  Britain, 
$20,471.74;  Bremen,  $12,225.91  ;  Philipine  Islands,  or  Spanish  Posses- 
sions, $12,038.57  ;  and  from  France,  $30. 

The  domestic  exports  consisted  chiefly  of  sugar,  634,955  Ibs.  ;  syrup, 
18,244  gals. ;  molasses,  58,448  gals. ;  coffee,  50,506  Ibs. ;  salt,  3,509  bbls.  ; 
Irish  potatoes,  15,464  bbls.  ;  sweet  potatoes,  8,979  bbls.  ;  swine,  3,724  ; 
sheep,  733  ;  goat  skins,  5,600  ;  hides,  1,741  ;  tallow,  16,452  Ibs.  ;  fresh 
beef,  38,000  Ibs.  ;  salt  beef,  13,260  Ibs.  ;  wool,  10,824  Ibs.  ;  cocoanuts, 
2,000  ;  melons,  2,500  ;  together  with  numerous  other  articles. 

The  total  of  custom-house  receipts  during  this  year  were  $155,640.17. 
Of  this  amount,  $146,964.52  were  received  at  Honolulu,  and  $8,128.37  at 
Lahaina  ;  the  remaining  $537.38  was  received  at  the  ports  on  the  islands 
of  Hawaii  and  Kauai. 

Of  these  receipts,  $58,114.86  were  for  duties  on  goods  ;  $70,209-.68  on 
spirits,  and  $8,261.75  for  harbor  dues.  I 

The  amount  of  oil  and  bone  transhipped,  free  of  duty,  was  as  fol- 
lows : — 

Sperm  Oil.  Whale  Oil.  Bone. 

SPRING    SEASON.  Gallg  Galls  Lbs 

To  United  States 132,251 1,897,1 16 435,846 

"   Havre 476 37,038 22,OCO 

FALL    SEASON. 

To  United  States ,.   42,669 1,853,194 1,520,559 

"   Cowes,  England —     —       21,040 


404  Appendix  II. 


Sperm  Oil.  Whale  Oil.  Bone. 

FALL   SEASON.  Galls.  Galla.  Lbs. 

To  Bremen —     /...      —         14,819 

"Havre —     —         6,000 

Total  175,396 3,787.348 2,020,264 

The  number  of  merchant  vessels  that  visited  these  islands  during  this 
year  was  211,  of  which  154  arrived  at  Honolulu,  29  at  Lahaina,  10  at 
Kawaihae,  8  at  Waimea,  9  at  Kealakekua,  and  1  at  Hilo.  Of  these  vessels 
137  were  American,  with  an  aggregate  tonnage  of  45,234  tons  ;  17  Ha- 
waiian— tonnage,  2,072  ;  32  British — tonnage,  6,185  ;  5  Danish — tonnage, 
866  ;  5  French — tonnage,  1,034  ;  3  Russian — tonnage,  1,223. 

Of  535  whalers,  246  visited  Honolulu  ;  177  Lahaina  ;  66  Hilo ;  12  Keala- 
kekua ;  20  Kawaihae  ;  and  12  Waimea.  Of  these,  500  were  American, 
19  French,  12  Bremen,  and  4  Russian. 

The  total  number  of  native  coasters  is  32,  with  a  tonnage  of  1,338  tons. 

From  the  Interior  Department  we  learn  that  out  of  119  foreigners  nat- 
uralized during  this  year,  53  were  Americans. 

Sales  of  public  land  were  made  for  $15,065. 

Licenses  for  stores,  hotels,  coasting,  peddling,  &c.,  amounted  to  $26,769. 

By  the  report  of  the  Minister  of  Public  Instruction,  there  are  423  public 
free  schools,  with  native  teachers,  who  instruct  in  the  Hawaiian  tongue: 
of  these  344  are  Protestant,  and  79  Catholic.  The  number  of  scholars  is 
12,205,  on  an  average  about  35  to  a  school.  The  expense  of  maintaining 
these  schools  was  $21,256  for  the  year.  In  addition  to  these,  there  are  9 
select  schools  or  seminaries,  where  English  and  the  higher  branches  are 
pursued.  In  his  report  he  makes  the  following  observation  : — 

"  Of  the  whole  number  of  pupils  in  our  free  schools,  the  average  for  their 
terms  last  year  was  12,205,  and  517  for  those  in  the  select  schools,  and  we  have 
12,722.  The  ages  of  our  pupils  are  generally  from  four  to  sixteen  years.  No 
account  is  made  here  for  the  numerous  Sunday  schools  for  both  adults  and 
children." 

The  number  of  marriages  licensed  was  1,954. 

The  Minister  of  Finance  recommends  that  the  ports  be  freed  from  all 
restrictions  on  commerce,  and  that  no  specific  exemption  be  made  of  duty 
on  imports  ;  also  the  extension  of  the  city  upon  the  vacant  water  lots 
of  Honolulu,  a  project  the  estimated  cost  of  which  by  others,  is  $130,000, 
probably  underrated. 

The  report  of  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations  exhibits  at  length  the  dip- 
lomatic affairs  of  the  kingdom.  Though  an  amicable  understanding 
exists  with  all  nations,  it  would  appearthat  relations  with  France  are  still  a 
source  of  national  interest,  if  not  apprehension.  It  contains  the  following 
retrospective  view  of  financial  affairs  : — 


The  Island  Kingdom  of  the  North  Pacific.  405 

"  For  the  financial  years  1842  and  1843,  our  whole  revenues  were  calculated  at 
$48,842.77  ;  in  only  eight  years,  with  all  our  inexperience  and  defective  admin- 
istration, chiefly  through  the  impulse  of  foreign  commerce,  they  amounted  to 
$315,735.84  for  the  years  1850  and  1851,  at  which  rate  of  increase  in  twenty 
years  hence,  our  yearly  revenues,  going  on  as  we  are,  and  on  our  present  basis 
of  taxation,  ought  to  be  $1,200,000." 

Referring  to  the  introduction  of  the  "  Maine  Liquor  Law"  into  the 
kingdom,  which  Mr.  Wyllie  has  always  steadily  opposed,  he  remarks  : — 
"As  for  the  adoption  of  the  Maine  Law  in  this  kingdom,  in  the  present 
state  of  our  revenue,  which  I  shall  show  hereafter,  no  man  of  practical 
sound  sense  would  recommend  it." 

The  official  returns  for  the  census  of  the  group  for  1853  will  be  read 
with  painful  interest,  since  they  exhibit  the  annual  decrease  of  population, 
which  neither  legislative  enactments  nor  individual  philanthropy  can 
avert. 

, NATIVES. N  FOREIGNERS.        TOTAL. 

Males.  Females.  Total. 

Hawaii 12,443 11,750 24,193      259 24,452 

Maui 8,905 8,425 17,330     244 17,574 

Molokai... 1,799 1,766 3,565     42 3,607 

Oahu 9,551 8,264   17,815      1,311 19,126 

Lanai 317 283 600) 

Kauai 3,672 3,054 6,726V  , 262 8,378 

Niihau . .  392 398 790  5 


Total 37,079 33,940 71,019       2,118 73,137 

Population  in  1849 80,641 

Decrease 7,504 

On  this  subject  the  Polynesian  contains  the  following  : — 

"  The  immense  labor  of  footing  up,  analyzing  and  putting  the  statistics  into  a 
tangible  shape,  can  only  be  appreciated  by  those  who  have  examined  the  piles  of 
returns  in  the  office  of  the  Minister  of  Public  Instruction.  That  labor  is  progress- 
ing with  all  possible  dispatch,  but  some  considerable  period  will  yet  elapse  be- 
fore it  is  completed.  We  are  enabled  to  present  our  readers  with  the  following 
details  in  regard  to  the  foreign  population  of  the  first  district  of  Oahu,  which  in- 
cludes Honolulu  and  vicinity,  and  is  believed  to  be  accurate.  This  census  was 
taken  the  last  week  in  December,  1853  : — 

Native  Countries.  No.                  Males.              Females. 

United  States 371 291 80 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 259 189 70 

Australia *26 16 10 

British  North  America 4 3 1 

Germany    (including  Belgium,  Holland 

and  Prussia) 66 62 4 

France 36 32   4 

Switzerland 3 3 — 

*  Chiefly  children  of  English  parents. 


406  Appendix  II. 


Native  Countries.  No.                  Males.              Females. 

Denmark 7 5 2 

Sweden 5 5 — 

Portugal,  Spain,  and  Spanish  America . .      23 21 2 

Turkey 1 l — 

Western  Islands  and  Cape  de  Verds  ...         9 9 — 

West  Indies -_- 3 3 — 

Sierra  Leone  (Africa) 1 1 — 

St.  Helena 2 2 — 

Isle  of  France 1 1 — 

East  Indies 6 6 — 

China 124 124 — 

Malaysia 1 1 — 

Philipines 3 3 — 

Ladrone  Islands . , 1 1 — 

Society  Islands 4 2 — 

Marquesas  Islands *1 1 — 

Born  on  the  Hawaiian  Islands |202 103 99 

Native  countries  unreported 21 21 — 

Total 1,180 906 274 

Of  the  above  about  20  are  negroes. 

Married  to  natives,  (11  Chinese)  98  ;  to  half-castes,  (1  Chinese)  20  ;  to  resident 
foreigners,  214.  Total  married,  332.  Over  50  years  of  age,  (4  Chinese)  64 ; 
from  20  years  to  50,  (74  Chinese)  71»;  from  10  years  to  20,  (26  Chinese)  173  ; 
under  10  years,  160;  age  unreported,  (20  Chinese)  67.  Total,  1,180.  The 
oldest  person  in  this  district  is  88  years.  The  oldest  resident  has  been  here  49 
years  ;  residents  over  20  years,  52  ;  from  10  to  20  years,  82  ;  from  5  to  10 
years,  143  ;  from  1  to  5  years,  441  ;  under  1  year,  88  ;  time  of  residence  unre- 
ported, 172  ;  of  Hawaiian  birth,  202.  Total,  1,180. 

In  the  remaining  four  districts  of  the  island  of  Oahu  the  total  number  of 
foreigners  is  only  131,  of  whom  121  are  males  and  10  females.  Their  nativity  is 
as  follows  : — 

No.  Males.  Females. 

United  States 40 37 3 

Great  Britain 18 18 — 

France 6 6 — 

Germany 2 2 — 

Sweden 1 1    — 

Portugal,  Spain  and  Spanish  America 3 1 2 

West  and  Cape  de  Verd  Islands 27 27 — 

Africa 1 1 — 

East  Indies 3 2 1 

China 22 22 — 

Hawaiian  Islands 8 4 . 4 

Total ..131..          ..121..  ..10 

• 

"  Of  American  parents. 

t  137  of  American  parents  ;  51  of  British  and  Irish  ;  5  of  German  ;  5  of  Danish  ;  3  of  French; 
1  of  Spanish.  Total,  202.  Only  5  are  over  20  years  of  age. 


The  Island  Kingdom  of  the,  North  Pacific.  407 


DIMINUTION    OF    THK    POPULATION. 

The  official  returns  of  James  W.  Marsh,  Esq.,  to  his  Excellency  the 
Governor  of  Oahu,  of  births,  deaths,  and  marriages,  for  the  year  1853, 
show  the  following  results  for  the  First  District,  in  which  Honolulu  is 
situated  : — 

Births 191 

Deaths 3,759 

Marriages  of  natives 458 

Do.        of  foreigners 61 

This  district  is  comprised  between  Maunalua  on  the  east  and  Moanalua 
on  the  west,  a  distance  of  some  fourteen  miles,  and  containing  a  popula- 
tion, it  is  supposed,  of  about  10,000  souls.  The  deaths  from  small-pox, 
included  in  the  above,  are  supposed  to  be  about  2,800 — the  balance  from 
other  diseases. 

In  this  same  district  during  the  year  1852,  there  were, 

Births 337 

Deaths 906 

Marriages 418 

It  is  to  be  remarked  that  it  was  in  this  district  that  the  small-pox  first 
broke  out,  and  was  more  fatal,  perhaps,  than  in  any  other  portion  of  the 
islands. 

By  the  appended  extract  from  the  report  of  the  Minister  of  Public  In- 
struction, will  appear  the  seemingly  anomalous  fact,  that  with  the  de- 
crease of  population  crime  is  on  the  increase,  while  it  also  exhibits  in  a 
favorable  light  the  intellectual  progress  of  the  nation. 

"  I  am  much  indebted  to  the  several  District  Attorneys,  F.  Baker,  Esq.,  of  Ha- 
waii, J.  W.  Austin,  Esq  ,  of  Maui,  A.  B.  Bates,  Esq.,  of  Oahu,  and  G.  Rhodes, 
Esq.,  of  Kauai,  for  their  valuable  statistics  of  criminal  convictions  in  the  courts 
of  their  several  districts,  and  for  the  valuable  letters  of  two  of  the  above-named 
gentlemen  accompanying  the  same.  Such  statistics  do  not  form  a  perfect  criterion, 
it  is  true,  of  the  state  of  public  morals  on  the  islands,  as  many  offences  against 
the  law  doubtless  escape  detection.  Yet  they  enable  us  to  form  a  tolerably  correct 
judgment  on  the  subject.  By  these  returns,  it  appears  that  the  whole  number  of 
convictions  for  crime  in  1853,  in  all  the  courts,  was  3,173,  or  one  to  about  every 
twenty-three  of  the  whole  population,  and  130  more  than  were  reported  for  the 
year  T852. 

"Of  the  above  convictions,  1,059  were  for  drunkenness — 55  less  than  were  re- 
ported for  the  previous  year ;  860  were  for  fornication  and  adultery — that  is,  40 
more  than  were  reported  during  the  previous  year;  109  were  for  disturbing  the 
peace  ;  199  for  thefts  and  larceny  ;  and  the  remainder  for  gambling,  violating  the 
Sabbath,  and  minor  offences. 

"Let  it  be  observed  that,  of  the  3,173  convictions  for  crime,  on  the  whole 
islands,  1,369,  or  nearly  one  half,  were  in  the  police  courts  of  Honolulu  ;  and,  as 
near  as  I  can  ascertain,  about  692  occurred  in  the  police  courts  of  Lahaina ;— 


408  Appendix  II. 


making  in  all  2,061,  or  nearly  two-thirds  of  the  criminal  convictions  on  the  islands 
in  these  two  seaports,  confirming  what  has  been  often  stated,  that  these  are  the 
great  hot-beds  of  vice  on  the  islands.  Purify  the  populous  towns,  and  you  purify 
the  nation.  How  can  it  be  done  I  Where  is  the  wise  man  who  will  devise  the 
proper  means  ! 

"One  of  my  respected  colleagues  has  introduced  a  bill  during  several  succes- 
sive meetings  of  the  Legislature  for  discouraging  prostitution,  by  preventing 
young  females  of  the  more  remote  districts  from  visiting  the  seaports  without  a 
i  The  bill  has  been  rejected  as  often  as  presented,  on  the  ground  of  its  un- 

adaptedness  to  meet  the  case,  and  also  of  its  impracticability  ;  but  the  subject  was 
referred  by  the  House  of  Nobles  to  the  undersigned  for  further  consideration.  It 
is  a  subject  on  which  I  have  bestowed  much  reflection  for  years,  and  I  confess 
myself  very  much  of  the  opinion  of  Chief  Justice  Lee,  as  expressed  in  his  report 
of  last  year,  that  no  law  can  be  framed  on  this  subject  that  will  be  practicable  and 
efficient,  and  not  interfere  too  much  with  the  liberty  of  the  subject.  If  any  rem- 
edy is  ever  found  for  this  tremendous  evil,  that  is  fast  consuming  the  native  race, 
it  will  be  in  the  general  moral  health  of  the  body  politic,  resulting  from  the  prog- 
ress of  Christian  education  and  civilization,  rather  than  in  legislation,  which  at 
best  can  only  lop  off  the  branches,  while  the  root  remains. 

"  I  have  endeavored  to  ascertain  by  circulars  addressed  to  all  the  School  In- 
spectors throughout  the  islands,  what  proportion  of  the  natives  use  intoxicating 
drinks  and  tobacco.  The  returns  are  by  no  means  satisfactory,  and  therefore  I 
will  not  attempt  to  give  the  results  in  full.  The  following  will  be  read  with 
interest : 

"  On  the  Island  of  Molokai,  with  a  native  population  of  3,565,  only  two  per- 
sons, one  native  and  one  foreigner,  are  reported  as  having  been  intoxicated  during 
the  year  1853;  and  no  habitual  drinkers  of  spirits.  563  only  are  reported  us 
using  tobacco  on  that  island.  In  the  fourth  and  fifth  School  District  on  Kauai, 
with  a  population  of  2,013,  not  a  case  of  drunkenness  is  reported  in  1853,  and  no 
habitual  drinkers.  There  are  72  foreigners  in  the  district.  In  the  second  or 
Koloa  district  on  Kauai,  with  a  population  of  about  1,200  natives,  only  four  are 
reported  as  given  to  strong  drink,  and  five  foreigners. 

"  On  the  Island  of  Niihau,  population  790,  all  natives,  not  one  person  is  reported 
as  using  intoxicating  drinks  ;  377  use  tobacco.  In  the  first  district  of  Maui,  the 
Lahaina  district,  with  a  population  of  4,684  natives,  181  are  reported  as  habitual 
beer  drinkers  to  excess,  and  1,560  use  tobacco.  In  a  part  of  the  second  district 
on  Miiui — that  is,  from  Waihee  to  Waikapu,  303  natives  and  foreigners  are  re- 
ported as  using  intoxicating  drinks,  and  1,011  use  tobacco. 

"  The  above  statistics  are  not  wholly  reliable,  and  can  only  be  regarded  as  an 
approximation  to  the  truth.  Of  the  other  districts  I  have  not  received  reports  on 
these  subjects. 

"  The  total  amount  of  intoxicating  drinks  consumed  on  the  islands  in  1853 
was  14,669  gallons,  or  4,066  gallons  more  than  were  consumed  during  the  year 
1852. 

"  By  those  most  acquainted  with  the  natives,  their  inveterate  habits  of  indo- 
lence are  still  regarded  as  the  source  of  a  vast  deal  of  their  immorality.  Being 
unwilling  to  work,  they  are  apt  to  resort  to  any  means,  however  reprehensible, 
for  obtaining  a  livelihood. 

"  I  have  heard,  also,  judges  of  courts  complain  much  of  the  practice  of  false 
swearing  among  natives.  Some  very  marked  instances  have  come  to  my  own 
knowledge. 

"But  on  the  whole,  the  state  of  public  morals,  as  reported  by  the  school  in- 
spectors and  district  attorneys,  cannot  be  said  to  be  bad  on  the  islands.  Life, 
property,  and  reputation  are  as  secure  as  in  most  Christian  lands  ;  and  we  are 
almost  entirely  free  from  the  more  aggravated  species  of  crimes,  such  as  robberies, 
murders,  incendiaries,  and  the  like. 


The  Island  Kingdom  of  the  North  Pacific.  409 

"  I  beg  the  attention  of  the  Legislature  to  the  valuable  suggestions  of  Attorneys 
Austin  and  Baker,  in  regard  to  public  morals,  in  their  letters  herewith  submitted, 
particularly  to  the  common  practice  of  married  persons  forsaking  their  partners  on 
the  most  trifling  grounds,  thus  breaking  up  domestic  relations,  and  exposing  the 
parties  to  great  temptation. 

"  I  have  made  an  effort,  by  addressing  circulars  to  all  the  school  inspectors  of 
the  twenty-five  districts,  to  ascertain  what  proportion  of  the  adult  native  popula- 
tion, or  those  say  over  sixteen  years  of  age.  are  able  to  read  their  own  language  ; 
Taut  the  returns  on  this  subject  are  yet  too  imperfect  to  furnish  the  basis  of  a  very 
accurate  calculation.  The  nearest  approximation  to  the  truth,  and  I  think  it  is 
not  far  from  it,  is  three- fourths." 

After  instituting  comparisons  disparaging  to  educ'ational  results  in 
America  and  European  kingdoms,  as  manifested  by  statistic  returns,  and 
the  concurrent  testimony  of  writers,  his  Excellency  continues  : — 

"  Nothing  invidious  is  intended  by  this  comparison  of  our  school  statistics  with 
those  of  other  countries  ;  much  less  is  it  introduced  by  way  of  boasting  of  our 
success.  The  undersigned  is  too  painfully  sensible  of  the  wretched  condition  of 
many  of  our  schools,  kept,  as  they  too  often  are,  in  cheerless  and  unfurnished 
grass  huts,  without  floors,  and  many  of  them  without  even  a  bench  to  sit  upon ; 
without  a  sufficient  number  of  books  and  apparatus  ;  with  bad  government,  and 
but  poorly  qualified  teachers,  to  indulge  such  a  thought  for  a  moment. 

"  The  object  is  simply  to  show  what  provision  has  been  made  by  other  govern- 
ments, and  scmie  of  the  most  enlightened  and  Christian,  for  the  instruction  of  the 
whole  people  ;  what  it  has  cost ;  what  degree  of  popular  education  has  been  at- 
tained, and  what  has  been  the  result  where  the  State  has  made  little  or  no  pro- 
vision for  the  education  of  all  the  people,  with  a  view  to  afford  encouragement 
and  hope,  and  to  show  that  poor  as  our  schools  are,  our  success  has  been  great, 
considering  the  time  and  the  efforts  made  ;  to  drive  away  despondency,  and  to 
lead  to  greater  and  more  wisely  directed  effort  in  the  cause  on  the  islands.  It  is 
less  than  sixteen  years  since  the  King's  government,  as  such,  made  any  attempt 
at  supporting  a  system  of  free  schools,  and  this  department  has  not  been  organ- 
ized eight  years  ;  yet  the  proportion  of  our  islanders  who  can  read  their  own 
language  is  already,  as  we  have  seen,  greater  than  in  some  old  and  enlightened 
States.  In  the  Sandwich  Islands  only  about  one  adult  in  four  cannot  read  his 
Bible,  his  newspaper,  the  constitution  and  laws  under  which  he  lives,  and  the 
ballot  he  throws  into  the  box,  while  in  North  Carolina  one  out  of  every  three  is 
unable  to  do  so.  This  result  is  more  worthy  of  notice  since  here  the  State  has 
done  almost  the  entire  work  of  educating  the  masses,  while  there  the  State  has 
done  little  or  nothing. 

"But  you  are  told  that  the  knowledge  acquired  in  our  native  schools  is  of  no 
practical  value  ;  that  the  pupils  learn  merely  by  rote,  and  do  not  comprehend  what 
they  are  taught,  or  make  any  use  of  it.  Such  assertions  are  not  founded  in  reason, 
or  supported  by  facts.  True,  our  islanders  who  read  their  own  language  may 
exercise  less  the  power  of  independent  thought,  and  possess  really  less  practi- 
cal knowledge  and  good  judgment  than  those  people  of  North  Carolina  who 
cannot  read  at  all ;  and  this  is  not  strange.  All  knowledge  is  not  to  be  derived 
from  books.  A  people  surrounded  by  intelligence  and  active  enterprise,  keeping 
all  minds  and  all  hands  in  motion,  and,  what  is  perhaps  more  than  all,  disciplined 
from  infancy  by  the  use  of  a  language  rich  in  the  accumulated  thought  of  ages, 
will  necessarily  acquire  much  mental  strength,  habits  of  industry,  and,  perhaps, 
elevation  of  general  character,  which  a  people  situated  as  these  islanders  are  can- 
not so  readily  obtain,  even  with  a  considerable  knowledge  of  books.  But  this 
does  not  prove  that  such  knowledge  is  valueless.  It  only  shows  the  vastness  and 
difficulty  of  the  work  it  has  to  do. 


410  Appendix  II. 


"  Knowledge  is  power  here  as  well  as  elsewhere  ;  and  if  combined  with  virtue, 
it  is  power  for  good,  and  good  only,  to  its  possessor  and  to  the  community.  This 
is  as  well  established  as  the  laws  of  cause  and  effect ;  but  time  is  required  for  gen- 
eral education  to  work  out  its  legitimate  results  here  or  anywhere  else. 

"  Several  of  the  honorable  members  of  the  House  of  Representatives  being 
school  inspectors,  have  had  a  practical  knowledge  of  the  working  of  our  free 
school  system  for  years,  and  need  no  argument  to  convince  them  that  the  common 
school  has  been  one  of  the  most  potent  instruments  in  preparing  the  people  for  a 
constitutional  government,  for  exercising  the  elective  franchise,  for  introducing 
trial  by  jury,  placing  natives  in  offices  of  high  trust  and  power,  securing  public 
tranquillity  ;  in  snort,  for  sustaining  the  whole  machinery  of  a  regular  government 
made  to  supersede  a  despotism  of -the  worst  form,  without  revolution  or  shedding 
one  drop  of  blood. 

"  Without  free  schools  diffusing  intelligence  among  the  entire  people,  it  would 
be  next  to  impossible  for  the  king  to  govern  his  people  by  a  constitution  and  laws. 
But  being  brought  into  the  common  school  at  four  or  five  years  of  age,  and  kept 
there  until  they  are  fourteen  or  sixteen,  they  not  only  acquire  valuable  elementary 
knowledge,  but  are  early  trained  to  habits  of  subordination,  learn  subjection  to 
law,  and  when  arrived  at  years  of  maturity,  they  are  easily  governed.  Who  ever 
heard  of  a  native,  whether  of  high  rank  or  low,  rising  up  against  the  law!  Such 
a  thing  is  unknown.  Why1?  Because  they  have  been  accustomed  from  youth 
to  bow  to  the  majesty  of  law. 

"  In  short,  the  tendency  of  a  diffusion  of  knowledge  among  the  entire  people 
here  is  the  same  as  in  other  countries,  that  is,  to  dissipate  the  evils  of  ignorance, 
increase  industry  and  the  productiveness  of  labor,  diminish  pauperism  and  crime, 
support  good  government,  and  diffuse  general  happiness.  In  proportion  to  the 
value  of  these,  then,  let  efforts  be  made  constantly  and  increasingly  to  sustain 
and  perfect  our  free  schools." 

AGRICULTURAL. 

Sales  of  12,011  acres  of  the  public  lands  were  made  for  $15,065,  aver- 
aging about  $1.25  per  acre. 

The  annexed  table  will  exhibit  the  extent  of  sugar-cultivations  in 
these  islands  : — 

ACRES  CULTIVATED. 

1852.  1853. 

Lihue  (Oahu) 200   580 

Koloa  (Kauai) 240   650 

Honuaula  (Ulupalakua) 250   . 300 

Makawao  (Maui) 325   500 

Hana  (Maui) 45   130 

W7aimea  (Hawaii) 50   50 

Hilo  (Hawaii) 540   540 

Total 1,650  2,750 

The  average  yield  per  acre  is  2,000  Ibs. ;  average  value,  5  cents  per 
pound. 

The  yield  of  Irish  potatoes,  of  excellent  quality,  still  continues  prolific 
in  the  Kula  district.  In  Makawao,  from  1,200  to  1,500  acres  of  wheat 
have  been  sown,  and  the  crop  promises  to  be  a  fair  one. 


The  Island  Kingdom  of  the  North  Pacific. 


411 


The  Polynesian  of  January  14th,  1854,  furnishes  the  following  rates  of 
the  city  retail  market : — 

"We  confess  to  a  feeling  of  shame  while  recording  and  publishing  to  the  world 
the  rates  of  some  of  the  following  articles,  as  paid  for  by  housekeepers  in  Hono- 
lulu. Many  of  them  are  exorbitant,  to  say  the  least,  while  others  are  far  too  high 
for  a  country  like  this,  where  gold  is  not  produced,  nor  business  very  brisk.  Some 
of  the  articles,  however,  are  reasonable. 


Beef,  per  Ib 7  to  9  c. 

Pork,  fresh,  Ib 1  Si- 
Mutton,  Ib 15  to  18 

Sausages 25 

Hams,  Ib 25 

Butter,  Ib 50  to  62^ 

Lard,  Ib 25 

Flour,  bbl $15  to  $18 

Meal,  per  half  bbl $6 

Fowls,  each 50  to  75 

Ducks     "     75to$l 

Turkeys"     $1  to  $2 

Eggs,  per  doz 75  to  81 

Milk,  per  quart 12| 

Charcoal,  per  bbl $3  to  $5 

Wood,  per  cord $16 

Melons,  each 12^  to  25 


Bananas,  per  bunch 75  to  $2 

Squashes,  each ...  A 25  to  50 

Onions,  per  bushel $5 

Tea,  Ib 75  to  $1  25 

Sugar,  brown 8  to  12 

do.      refined 16 

Coffee 16 

Dried  Apples,  Ib 1  Si- 
Potatoes,  Irish,  per  bbl.  . .  $3  50 
do.       Sweet,     "  $2  50 

Syrup,  gall 75 

Radishes,  per  bunch 25 

Carrots             "           25 

Tomatoes,  a  small  mess  . .  25  to  50 

Oranges,  per  100 $2  50  to  $3 

Limes,  per  doz 10 

Cucumbers,  per  doz 25  to  37£ 


Under  date  of  January  21st,  the  same  paper  contains  a  lengthy  article 
on  the  subject  of  "  Sugar  Planting  at  the  Islands,"  a  portion  of  which  is 
subjoined  : — 

"A  shrewd  and  candid  observer  of  matters  and  .things  at  the  islands  cannot  but 
be  impressed  with  the  fact  that  our  staple  articles  of  export  are  by  a  thousand-fold 
too  limited  for  either  individual  or  national  prosperity.  We  are  poor  because  we 
have  so  little  to  sell.  We  have  but  little  to  sell,  because  but  little  capital  and 
effort  are  bestowed  upon  the  production  of  staple  articles,  which  are  always  in 
demand,  and  not  dependent  upon  a  prosperous  or  adverse  whaling  season. 

"  It  cannot  be  denied  that  the  supply  of  the  whaling  fleet,  and  the  shipping  con- 
nected with  it,  is  the  life  of  the  agricultural  interest,  in  its  present  condition.  By 
far  the  larger  proportion  of  the  labor  bestowed  upon  the  soil  has  immediate  ref- 
erence to  the  demand  thus  created.  And  this  is  right  and  natural.  That  demand 
should  be  promptly  and  fully  supplied,  in  every  particular,  so  far  as  the  islands 
have  the  ability  to  produce  what  is  wanted.  We  would  go  farther  and  say,  that 
the  whaling  fleet  should  not  only  be  provided  for,  to  the  fullest  extent  of  its  de- 
mands, but  many  articles  of  their  greatest  necessity  should  be  furnished  them  at  a 
rate  considerably  lower  than  the  now  current  prices  of  the  market ;  and  this  could 
be  done,  were  there  more  system  in  the  matter,  and  still  leave  a  profit  to  the  pro- 
ducer. But  this  is  not  the  point  of  our  remarks  ;  we  would  supply  the  whaling 
fleet,  and  thus  secure  that  important  business  to  the  islands,  and  in  addition, 
strongly  urge  the  increased  production  of  such  staples  as  will  bear  exportation 
and  yield  a  profit  to  the  producer. 

"  It  is  a  palpable  fact  that  forces  itself  upon  the  observation  of  every  business 
man  in  the  community,  that  with  the  whaling  fleet  departs  the  active  business  of 
the  islands  Not  only  are  the  principal  ports  where  they  touch  affected ;  the 
stagnation  is  felt  also  in  every  corner  of  the  land,  and  every  branch  of  business 


412  Appendix  II. 


languishes  alike.     The  demand  being  cut  off,  the  supply,  of  course,  ceases,  and 
with  it  the  means  of  keeping  business  in  a  state  of  activity. 

"Under  such  a  state  of  depression,  a  multitude  of  opinions  are  broached  in  re- 
gard to  the  cause  of  the  dulness  of  the  times.  One  is  of  opinion  that  it  is  occa- 
sioned by  the  tonnage  dues  on  merchant  vessels  ;  another,  that  5  per  cent,  duties 
on  merchandise  is  the  cause.  Another  thinks  that  a  property  tax  would  remedy 
the  evil,  and  make  money  plenty ;  while  another  still  attributes  it  all  to  the  Le- 
gislature, which  fails  to  do  something  that  would  act  as  a  specific  against  '  hard 
times.'  Without  attempting  to  discuss  these  various  opinions,  we  assert  it  as  our 
belief,  that  they  h^e  very  little  to  do  with  the  matter.  The  causes  lie  deeper, 
and  are  scarcely  affected  Ijy  the  ripples  upon  the  surface.  Ships  bringing  cargoes, 
or  coming  for  them,  will  not  be  deterred  by  the  tonnage  dues.  As  much  mer- 
chandise is,  and  will  be  imported,  as  we  can  pay  for,  even  with  5  per  cent,  duties 
upon  it.  A  tax  upon  property  would  not  bring  an  additional  dollar  into  the 
country,  and  it  is  the  lack  of  dollars  that  makes  the  times  hard.  If  the  Legislature 
could  force  men  to  become  industrious,  or  could  they  compel  capitalists  and  la- 
borers to  cultivate  our  waste  soil,  and  produce  from  it  some  staple  article  that 
would  sell,  then  indeed  could  they  reach  the  cause,  and  apply  the  remedy.  But 
(his  may  be  beyond  their  province.  If  we  are  ever  to  expect  an  increase  of  bu- 
siness at  the  islands,  it  must  be  brought  about,  as  we  apprehend,  by  a  greatly  in- 
creased development  of  our  agricultural  resources.  We  see  no  other  possible  way 
for  its  accomplishment.  We  already  supply  the  demand  for  recruits  and  supplies 
of  a  perishable  nature  ;  and  when  the  demand  for  these  ceases,  by  the  departure 
of  the  whaling  fleet,  we  have  nothing  to  fall  back  upon.  Coffee,  sugar,  syrup  and 
molasses  may  be  in  demand,  at  a  remunerating  price,  but  unfortunately  there  is 
nothing  of  the  kind  to  be  had.  Indigo,  arrow-root,  cotton  and  wool  may  be  pro- 
duced to  a  large  extent,  but  they  are  not.  The  simple  fact  stands  out  boldly  before 
us,  that  we  have  very  little  to  export,  the  sale  of  which  would  bring  money  into  the 
country.  And  as  a  consequence,  the  business  of  the  islands  is  limited  to  the 
necessities  of  the  whaling  fleet,  which  will  never  exceed  its  amount  for  the  few 
past  years. 

"  In  view  of  these  facts — and  we  deem  them  such — the  inquiry  is  apposite  and 
of  vital  consequence,  How  can  the  business  of  the  islands  be  increased  !  In  what 
way  can  an  export  be  produced,  that  will  bring  money  into  the  country  1 

"Without  for  a  moment  overlooking  the  importance  of  our  present  business, 
based  upon  the  wants  of  the  whaling  fleet ;  or  that  coffee,  salt,  arrow-root,  fruits, 
&c.,  are  all-important  articles  of  export  that  should  not  be  neglected,  it  is  still  our 
opinion  that  the  production  of  sugar,  syrup  and  molasses  must  become  the  great 
staple  of  the  islands,  and  be  relied  upon  chiefly  to  increase  our  business. 
********* 

"  To  establish  sugar  or  coffee  plantations  in  any  country,  successfully,  requires 
a  large  capital,  as  experience  and  common  sense  would  dictate  ;  and  this  is  just 
what  is  wanted  here  to  render  the  business  profitable,  and  of  the  highest  benefit 
to  the  islands.  Without  it,  we  must  be  content  to  see  our  business  confined  to 
its  present  limits,  and  raise  potatoes  and  squashes  for  the  whaling  fleet,  while 
thousands  of  acres  of  good  soil  lie  uncultivated  and  unproductive." 

A  correspondent  of  the  Polynesian,  writing  under  date  of  January  2d, 
1854,  in  speaking  of  the  agricultural  districts  of  East  Maui,  makes  the 
following  complimentary  allusion  to  the  estate  at  Ulupalakua  : — 

"Mr.  Torbert's  plantation  at  Ulupalakua  (it  is  a  musical  name)  has  suffered  some 
from  drought  of  late,  but  not  so  much  as  some  of  the  plantations.  It  is  in  a  flourish- 
ing condition.  The  cane  looks  well,  and  there  is  more  of  it  than  can  be  ground  with 
the  existing  machinery.  The  sugar  and  syrup  recently  made  there  are  certainly 


The  Island  Kingdom  of  the  North  Pacific. 


413 


of  a  superior  quality,  and  cannot  fail  to  command  a  high  price.  This  Ulupalakua 
is  a  choice  spot.  We  think  more  of  it  on  every  successive  visit.  For  climate, 
soil,  prospect,  peaceful  retirement,  as  a  place  to  live,  and  with  the  requisite  means 
to  make  money,  where  is  its  superior  1  The  pleasure  of  a  visit  there,  too,  is  not 
a  little  enhanced  by  the  generous,  farmer-like  hospitality  of  the  noble-hearted 
'  laird'  who  conducts  the  establishment.  The  half  or  the  whole  of  this  plantation 
of  over  4,000  acres  is  for  sale,  and  fortunate  will  be  the  man  who  will  purchase  it 
at  a  fair  price.  The  climate  alone  is  a  fortune." 

A  retrospective  glance  at  the  commerce  of  this  kingdom  will  prove  in- 
teresting, as  it  exhibits  up  to  the  year  1852  a  steady  increase  of  imports 
and  revenue  : — 


Value  of  Imports.             Gross  Duties.             Re-exported. 

Return  Duties. 

1843  

.  .     $223,383  38  $6,701  84  $66,618  17  

$1,670  41 

1844     .    . 

350,357  12    ...         10,326  13  60,054  06   .  .  . 

1,501  34 

1845 

546  941  72                21,536  94             67,010  93 

2,098  82 

1846     . 

598,38224  53,44778....      62,32674.    . 

21,667  02 

1847  

710,13852  101,51225  55,208.07  

56,991    17 

1848 

605,618  73....       142,357  73.    ..     33,551  55  

90,148  27 

1849 

729739  44              222,118  99           107,102  07 

156,098  16 

1850     .  .  . 

1,035,05870  202,60361  46,52972  

110,687  12 

1851 

1,751,671  93               189,090   19             82,273  27 

63  102  81 

1852  

715,295  27  135,423  77   ...      63,661   18  

52,929  70 

Total  .. 

..$7,265,587  05."  ..  .$1,085,119  23   ...$644,334  76  

$556,894  82 

Net  Amount.          Net  Duties.    Transit  Duties.    Harbor  Dues. 

Net  Receipts. 

1843  

$156,56521..      $5,27074..     $239  31  ..   $2,958  83.  . 

$8,468  34 

1844  

289,969  77..       8,970  13..       411   60..     4,881  33.. 

14,263  58 

1845  

471,319  78..      19,465  12..        734  01..     4,890  83.. 

25,189  96 

1846  

536,056  50..      31,780  76..        220  56..     4,705  32.. 

36,506  66 

1847  

653,930  45..     44,521  08..        184  93..     4,095  24.. 

48,801  25 

1848   .... 

572,06718..      52,20946..        26452..      3,09496.. 

55,568  94 

1849  

622,637  37..      66,020  83..        235  13..      5,687  53.. 

71,934  49 

1850  

989,528  98..      91,916  49..       443  42..  12,644  54.. 

116,190  68 

1851  

1,751,77193..    125,98738..     1,043  45.  .  12,905  71  .. 

148,936  54 

1952  

651,634  09..    135,423  77..       991  56..     7,711  90.. 

144,127  23 

The  average  amount  of  imports  during  the  last  four  years  is  $1,225,175.02 ; 
and  the  excess  of  imports  above  the  average  of  the  four  years  past  is 
$56,776.16. 

DOMESTIC    EXPORTS. 

1850.                                1851.                              1852.  1853. 

$596,522  63 $309,828  94 $257,251    59 $275,374  17. 

REVENUE  FOR  THE  LAST  FOUR  YEARS. 

1850.                                 1851.                              1852.  1853. 

$121,506  73 $160,602  19 $113,091  93 $155,640  17 


ARRIVALS  FOR  THE  LAST  FOUR  YEARS. 

1850.  1851.  1852.  1853. 

Merchant,  . .  469 446 235 211 

Whale-ships,  237 135 519 535 


414  Appendix  II. 


The  following  censual  review  will  exhibit  the  rapid  decrease  of  popu- 
lation. In  1779  Cook's  estimate  was  400,000,  but  this  was  probably 
overrated  by  more  than  100,000  ;  his  inference  was  drawn  from  the  im- 
mense number  of  natives  that  flocked  to  every  locality  visited  by  his 
ships.  A  loose  estimate  for  1823  gives  142,050  for  the  entire  group. 
The  following  are  official  returns  : — 

1332.         1836.         1849.         1853. 

Native 129,814   108,002 —     71,019 

Total 130,313   108,579 80,641 73,137 

Dr.  Fisher,  in  his  "  Statistical  Annual  for  1854,"  makes  the  following 
observation  upon  this  subject : — 

"  The  excess  of  deaths  over  births  in  1848  had  been  6,465,  or  8  per  cent. 
About  10,000  died  ofnaeasles  and  hooping-cough  in  1847-8.  At  this  rate  of  mor- 
tality the  population  in  1860  would  be  32,224  ;  in  1870,  14,073  ;  in  1880,  6,134  ; 
in  1890,  2.667,  and  in  1900  only  1,162.  In  1950  the  Hawaifcm  race  would  be 
extinct*  Such  is  the  influence  of  civilization  on  aboriginal  races — the  same 
throughout  America  and  throughout  the  world." 

It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that  these  deductions  are  based  on 
the  statistics  of  what  has  been  emphatically  called  "  the  year  of  death," 
and  are  intended  only  to  show  the  prospective  decrease  under  special  cir- 
cumstances ;  yet  when  it  is  shown  by  official  returns  that  nearly  60,000 
out  of  a  population  of  less  than  130,000,  or  nearly  one-half,  have  died  off  in 
20  years,  the  extinction  of  the  whole  race  at  no  distant  period  would 
seem  to  be  realized. 

The  subject  of  annexing  this  kingdom  to  the  United  States  will  require 
but  a  brief  consideration.  The  acquisition  of  property  is  to  individuals 
a  welcome  event,  and  an  increase  of  territory  is  salad  for  national  cu- 
pidity;  but  when  the  whirlwind  of  enthusiasm  has  passed,  let  us  deliber- 
ately consider  what  many  are  seeking.  Neither  a  Texas,  California,  nor 
a  Cuba,  would  be  the  result  of  such  a  consummation.  As  a  territorial 
acquisition,  it  hardly  merits  a  consideration.  But,  on  the  other  hand,  a 
most  important  point  would  be  secured  for  our  rapidly-increasing  com- 
merce in  the  Pacific — a  resting-point  that  we  can  call  our  own  ;  also  a 
tropical  garden  adequate  to  the  requirements  of  that  portion  of  our  re- 
public bordering  the  Western  Ocean.  Another  result  would  be  a  dimi- 
nution in  price  of  the  staple  products  of  that  country  among  those  regions 
or  districts  for  which  San  Francisco  or  Columbia  River  are  entrepots, 
and  the  advantages  of  an  increased  commerce  would  be  mutually  shared 
between  Oregon  and  California  and  a  sister  State. 

On  the  other  hand,  Hawaii  would  in  every  respect  be  benefited.  The 
apprehension  that  necessarily  arises  where  a  weaker  power  is  exposed  to 


The  Island  Kingdom  of  the  North  Pacific.  415 

and  experiences  the  intimidations  of  a  greater  would  no  longer  exist. 
The  simple  fact  of  its  being  an  integral  portion  of  our  country  would  in- 
sure the  speedy  occupation  of  waste  lands,  enhance  the  value  of  every 
description  of  real  estate,  and  immeasurably  develop  its  resources,  (which 
are  strictly  agricultural,)  to  the  profit  of  the  merchant,  the  planter,  and 
to  every  industrial  class  of  society.  With  the  absence  of  the  thirty  per 
cent,  ad  valorem  duty  on  Hawaiian  exports,  a  host  of  cane  and  coffee 
plantations  would  besprinkle  the  mountains  and  valleys  ;  harbors  would 
exist  in  place  of  open  roadsteads,  and  the  construction  of  docks,  roads, 
together  with  other  local  improvements,  would  be  the  immediate  evidences 
of  future  prosperity.  The  confidence  inspired  by  this  consolidation  of 
power  would  be  deemed  ample  security  for  the  investment  of  capital  in 
the  lucrative  fields  of  this  archipelago,  which  even  now  exist,  and  an  era 
of  commercial  enterprise  would  dawn  for  Hawaii,  which,  as  an  inde- 
pendent sovereignty,  she  can  hardly  hope  to  attain.  While  the  one  has 
nothing  to  lose,  the  other  has  everything  to  gain. 

Another  point  to  be  considered  would  be  the  incorporation  of  a  distinct 
race  with  our  own.  It  is  hoped  that  preceding  remarks  and  extracts  have 
sufficiently  exhibited  the  habits  and  intellectual  capacity  of  this  branch 
of  the  great  Polynesian  family.  Their  education,  associations,  and  politi- 
cal bias,  are  purely  American ;  religion,  laws,  and  democratic  ideas,  im- 
planted by  a  liberal  form  of  government  adapted  to  their  wants,  are 
results  of  American  commerce  and  philanthropy.  At  the  present  day, 
the  natives,  independent  of  foreign  residents  or  denizens,  are  better  edu- 
cated, have  clearer  conceptions  of  rectitude  in  moral  principle,  than  the 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  emigrants  with  which  we  are  annually  inun- 
dated from  European  shores,  who  infect  us  not  only  with  physical,  but 
even  moral  pestilence.  Almost  every  Hawaiian  can  read  his  vote,  while, 
at  the  same  time,  he  possesses  liberal  ideas  of  the  principles  he  endeavors 
to  sustain,  besides  fully  appreciating  the  inestimable  privilege  of  free 
suffrage:  This  is  more  than  can  be  said  for  those  whose  views  from 
infancy  have  been  anti-republican,  whose  religion,  more  than  anything, 
has  retarded  the  healthy  growth  of  knowledge.  Such  are  they  who  at 
present  land  upon  our  soil,  the  passive  tools  of  others  whose  ambition 
and  cupidity  would  curtail  the  liberties  of  its  rightful  possessors.  There 
would  be  no  immigration  into  this  country  of  Hawaiians  ;  the  relic  of  a 
once  numerous  race  would  still  continue  sparsely  scattered  among  native 
hills. 

Invidious  comparisons  are  not  sought  in  a  spirit  of  national  prejudice. 
For  absolute  notions  of  republicanism  as  evidenced  by  religious  fanati- 
cism, so  at  variance  with  the  sentiment  of  more  conservative  society,  a 
weight  of  responsibility  devolves  upon  our  statesmen.  The  annexation 


416  Appendix  II. 


of  territory  is  of  trifling  consideration  in  comparison  with  the  annexation 
of  principle ;  and  this  we  are  daily  incorporating  with  our  free  institu- 
tions, until  the  bulwark  of  our  confederacy  is  breasting  an  element  of 
conflicting  creeds,  theories,  and  abstract  principles,  unavoidably  entailed. 
Its  subsidence  will  only  be  insured  by  careful  analysis  based  upon 
moral  conviction,  and  bold  and  determined  action  to  secure  the  triumph 
of  American  supremacy.  A  union  with  the  worshippers  of  Fo  or  Boodha 
would  involve  less  controversy  than  the  precocity  of  republicans  of  a 
day,  the  early  aspirants  for  political  honors,  the  class  that  profits  by  the 
industry  of  others.  A  skilful  masking  of  sentiment,  a  cloaking  of  prin- 
ciple, are  at  present  prerequisites  to  political  fame;  but  posterity  will 
cherish  the  memory  of  the  patriot-statesman  who  sacrifices  the  bauble — 
transient  renown,  for  the  riobler  achievement — national  prosperity. 

The  majority  of  State  officers,  planters,  merchants,  and  foreign  resi- 
dents, who  give  character  to  society,  are  Americans,  and  manifest  as 
deep  an  interest  in  American  politics  as  their  neighbors  upon  adjacent 
shores.  The  press  is  essentially  American,  and  in  its  moral  tendencies 
encourages  and  promotes  those  time-hallowed  observances  that  link  us  to 
the  past  by  cherished  associations.  Hawaii  would  still  continue  to  legis- 
late for  herself,  and  a  new  bond,  established  on  a  broader  basis,  would 
unite  us  to  our  countrymen  who  have  conferred  upon  these  islands  their 
present  political  importance.  If  she  come  to  us,  it  will  be  as  a  free 
State  ;  in  principle,  there  will  be  no  constitutional  deformity  to  remodel, 
no  monarchical  sentiments  to  be  combated  ;  existing  institutions  are  a 
sufficient  guaranty  for  harmony  of  union. 

The  rapidity  of  the  numerical  decrease  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  group, 
and  in  a  disproportionate  ratio  the  foreign  increase,  have  already  awakened 
the  attention  of  the  far-seeing.  The  present  subject  may  be  indefinitely 
postponed,  but  the  problem  will  sooner  or  later  require  solution.  It  is 
absurd  to  argue  that  the  present  race  by  intermarriage  will  become 
merged  into  a  distinct  nation  that  shall  retain  its  present  code  and  system 
of  government.  Existing  evidences  and  growing  prejudices  are  opposed 
to  such  a  result.  The  Anglo-Polynesians  bear  but  a  small  proportion  to 
the  number  of  resident  foreigners  ;  nor  do  we  discover  in  them,  save  in 
few  instances,  an  increase  of  intellectual  capacity.  The  alarming  de- 
crease of  population  is  exhibited  by  official  returns,  and  a  nation  must 
either  be  enriched  or  impoverished  in  accordance  with  its  growth  or 
decline. 

American  conquests  have  been  peacefully  achieved ;  but  there  is 
another  power  less  fastidious  in  its  moral  scruples,  (if  political  economy 
will  sanction  the  application  to  national  policy,)  that  has  long  yearned 


The  Island  Kingdom  of  the  North  Pacific.  417 

parentally  for  this  interesting  group.  France,  not  content  with  the  assumed 
monopoly  of  the  South  Pacific,  has  sought  every  pretext  for  inflicting  her 
unjust  aggressions  to  goad  an  infant  nation  to  open  opposition,  that  a 
plea  might  be  afforded  for  crushing  it  out  by  her  own  weight.  But  in 
every  instance  her  ambitious  machinations  have  been  baffled  by  skilful 
diplomacy,  creditable  alike  to  the  kingdom  and  its  Minister  of  Foreign 
Relations.  Except  the  unauthorized  proceedings  of  Lord  George  Paulet, 
and  the  disgraceful  acts  of  a  former  British  Consul,  occurrences  which 
had  well  nigh  weaned  Hawaiian  gratitude  from  a  cherished  benefactor, 
there  has  always  been  a  higher  tone — a  dignity  of  feeling  on  the  part  of 
England  in  her  official  intercourse  with  this  group,  which  in  a  measure 
have  confirmed  early  impressions  as  to  her  zeal  and  interest  in  its  wel- 
fare. Though  a  strong  remonstrance  would  be  urged  against  the  abdi- 
cation of  Hawaiian  sovereignty  in  behalf  of  another  power,  it  is  equally 
certain  that  she  would  never  tarnish  her  national  dignity,  nor  violate  the 
sanctity  of  treaties,  by  political  aggression  with  a  view  to  conquest. 

If  those  interested  will  examine  the  subject,  unbiased .  by  national 
prejudice,  they  will  discover  that  no  country  is  more  interested  in  the 
possession  or  independence  of  these  islands  than  the  United  States.  The 
first  has  already  been  shown ;  their  geographic  position  will  explain  the 
latter.  The  growing  commerce  of  San  Francisco  with  China,  the  East 
Indies,  Australia,  and  in  future  with  Japan,  owing  to  prevailing  winds, 
must  necessarily  pass  by  this  group,  or  at  most  within  a  few  degrees  of 
it,  in  its  egress  ;  so  that,  notwithstanding  their  comparatively  isolated 
position,  they  may  be  regarded  as  the  key  of  the  North  Pacific.  Within 
a  circuit  of  thousands  of  miles  north  of  the  equator,  there  exists  neither 
group  nor  island  to  checkmate  this  absolutism  of  natural  advantage. 
Once  in  possession  of  a  hostile  power,  and  properly  fortified,  their  con- 
formation would  oppose  almost  insurmountable  obstacles  to  an  invading 
force.  American  interests  are  to  be  regarded,  since  (native  excepted) 
they  are  paramount  to  all  others  in  the  group.  Were  Hawaii  to  become 
a  colony  of  Great  Britain,  the  commercial  privileges  of  our  countrymen 
might  in  nowise  be  curtailed,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  they  would  not 
be  in  the  slightest  degree  improved.  California  is  the  vortex  that  ab- 
sorbs Hawaiian  produce.  The  merchant  who  exports  his  surplus  wares, 
and  the  planter  his  coffee  and  sugar,  would  have  the  same  international 
restrictions  to  encounter  that  are  at  present  a  serious  impediment  to  more 
extended  enterprise.  The  contingency  of  a  French  monopoly  should 
never  for  a  moment  be  entertained  ;  such  an  event  would  be  disastrous 
to  the  interests  of  all.  Tahiti  furnishes  a  precedent  that  needs  no  com- 
ment. 

Whether  Hawaii  shall  still  continue  an  independent  kingdom,  become 

27 


418  Appendir  II. 


incorporated  with  our  republic,  or  exist  as  a  foreign  colony,  remains  to 
be  seen.  Its  annexation  to  this  country  would  not  be  the  result  of  a 
necessity.  Her  present  revenues  are  adequate  to  immediate  require- 
ments, and  she  is  politically  capable  of  sustaining  her  position  among 
nations,  though  the  zenith  of  prosperity  be  vaguely  remote.  It  is  not 
for  Americans  to  agitate.  This  kingdom  possesses  the  requisite  ele- 
ments for  guiding  the  helm  of  State,  and  with  these  rests  the  decision. 
If  the  sequel  be  annexation,  and  consonant  with  American  interests,  no 
foreign  intervention  will  prevent  our  country  from  pursuing  a  course  that 
may  be  deemed  mutually  beneficial  and  politically  just. 


APPENDIX  III. 


THE  FRENCH  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Political  Boundaries  of  the  Pacific— Area— Retrospective  Glance  at  French  Policy— Events  of 
1841  and  1842 — Possessions  of  France  defined — Occupation  of  Marquesas  Islands  by  Du 
Petit  Thouars— Sentiments  of  Louis  Philippe  and  M.  Guizot— Conquest  of  Tahiti— Causes 
for  National  Interference — Naval  and  Land  Forces — Policy  of  the  Protectorate — Port  and 
Police  Regulations — Unjust  Exactions — Permit  of  Residence — Hostility  towards  the  Eng- 
lish Mission— Official  Proclamation— Moral  Retrogression  of  Natives— Protectorate  favora- 
bly considered— Commodore  Wilkes  on  the  Resources  of  this  Group— Present  Condition 
and  Exports — Comparison  with  Mauritius — Anticipated  Difficulties  at  Tongatabu — Seizure 
of  New  Caledonia— Position  of  the  Navigator  Islands— Superficial  Comparison  of  French 
and  English  Colonies. 

THE  political  horizon  of  the  Old  World  is  at  present  Obscured  by  gather- 
ing clouds  ;  however  we  may  speculate  or  surmise,  it  is  only  when  the 
pall  shall  have  risen  that  we  can  comprehend  the  sequel.  The  three  great 
powers  now  drawn  up  in  hostile  array  have  extensive  possessions  in  this 
oce^in  ;  but  such  is  the  position  of  their  mutual  and  opposing  interests, 
that  the  arena  of  strife  must  evidently  be  confined  to  continental  fields, 
unless  there  occur  a  new  phase  in  national  policy,  which  none  would 
wish  to  anticipate,  to  sever  the  bond  of  amity  between  two  great  maritime 
nations  at  present  so  cordially  fraternizing.  We  cannot  suppos-e  that  the 
Russian  bear,  so  long  dormant,  has  awakened  from  his  lethargy  to  snuff 
up  delectable  odors  amid  the  palm  groves  of  the  Southern  Ocean,  nor  that 
the  eagles  of  France  will  seek  for  prey  or  more  genial  eyries  amid  the 
inhospitable  snows  of  Kamtschatka  ;  to  bombard  the  fishing  huts  of 
Petropaulski  would  furnish  but  sorry  gratification.  However  fiercely  the 
conflict  may  rage  in  Europe,  the  present  combination  of  powers  will  in- 
sure the  tranquillity  of  the  Pacific,  if  we  except  the  possible  rencontre  of 
a  national  vessel  with  a  straggling  privateer  ;  and  whatever  may  be  the 
anxiety  respecting  neutrals  in  the  Atlantic,  the  guardians  of  the  Black 
and  Baltic  Seas  relieve  from  anticipated  contingencies  the  commerce  of 
the  Western  Ocean.  Since  the  treasure  of  the  old  Spanish  galleons  was 
scattered  by  the  cannon-shot  of  Drake  and  Anson,  and  in  later  years  the 
reverberation  of  the  Essex's  guns  carried  consternation  to  British  whalers, 
the  broad  Pacific  has  slumbered  undisturbed.  The  peaceful  developments 
of  nearly  half  a  century  had  prepared  the  civilized  nations  of  the  east  and 


420  Appendix  III. 


western  hemispheres  for  the  dawn  of  a  ne^w  era,  and  the  glitter  of  El 
Dorado  was  the  mighty  lever  that  set  in  motion  an  avalanche  of  cupidity, 
enterprise  and  ambition  Since  the  Crusades,  there  was  never  such  a 
mustering  of  nations  and  tribes  as  have  marched  steadily  on  to  the  shores 
of  the  great  Western  Ocean  ;  and  the  obscurity  of  ages,  that  like  an  incubus 
brooded  upon  its  clear  waters,  has  been  dissipated  forever  by  the  surging 
and  reflux  of  human  waves. 

The  possessions  of  Russia,  England,  our  own  great  Republic,  and  the 
oligarchies  or  military  despotisms  of  degenerate  Castile,  bound  the  Pacific 
on  the  east ;  on  the  west  are  the  bleak  mountains  of  Siberia,  the  magnifi- 
cent empire  of  the  east — and  again,  in  the  Southern  Ocean,  the  cross  of 
St.  George  waves  over  a  continent  nearly  as  broad  as  our  Republic  from 
ocean  to  ocean.  Over  a  watery  area  of  50,000,000  square  miles  is  scat- 
tered the  almost  countless  archipelago ;  and  here,  in  the  Southern  Ocean, 
amid  the  groves  of  an  emerald  cordon  three  thousand  five  hundred  miles 
in  extent,  flutters  the  tri-color  of  an  empire.  It  will  be  found  that  nations, 
like  individuals,  have  their  distinguishing  characteristics  ;  and  whatever 
may  be  their  manifest  policy,  history  records  true  qualities  ;  either 
human  achievements,  political  prowess,  or  military  renown,  emblazon 
their  escutcheons.  In  the  French,  we  have  a  people  refined,  enthusiastic 
and  warlike,  whose  courtesies  have  enchanted  courts,  and  whose  thunder 
startled  cabinets,  who  for  nearly  two  centuries  have  been  pursuing  a 
shadow — that  master  intellect,  whose  power  was  felt  from  the  pillars  of 
Hercules  to  the  Pyramids,  and  from  the  dykes  of  Holland  to  Moscow, 
failed  to  accomplish  his  cherished  project,  the  establishment  and  main- 
tenance of  colonies.  From  the  days  of  Colbert  to  Guizot,  through  a  po- 
litical atmosphere  of  intrigue  and  diplomacy,  France  has  made  but  a  sorry 
exhibition  in  the  way  of  foreign  conquest ;  and  yet,  there  is  hardly  a 
Parisian  in  his  native  city  who  sips  his  coffee  with  the  columns  of  the 
Moniteur  before  him,  whose  vanity  does  not  suggest  self-gratulation  at 
the  vast  acquisitions  of  "  la  grand  France.'1'' 

It  is  unnecessary  to  recapitulate  the  rise  and  decline  of  French  colonies 
in  the  East  and  Western  Oceans,  since,  with  the  success  of  the  Dutch 
and  Spanish  for  a  precedent,  Colbert  established  in  1664  his  first  colony 
by  purchasing  settlements  already  formed  among  the  West  India  Isles. 
The  success  and  reverses  of  France  upon  the  American  continent  are 
alike  familiar  to  readers  of  history.  Algiers  was  a  wide  field  for  the  dis- 
play of  military  enthusiasm  ;  but  aside  from  principles  of  right  ostensibly 
paraded,  its  conquest  was  the  result  of  a  national  effervescence. 

While  scheming  for  the  coffee  and  sugar  of  the  West,  the  spices  and 
precious  stones  of  the  East  were  not  forgotten,  and  in  1664,  Colbert 
founded  an  East  India  Company,  which,  with  various  reverses,  existed 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  421 

until  1769,  when  it  was  dissolved  ;  while  the  West  India  Company,  estab- 
lished about  the  same  time,  expired  within  ten  years  after  it  was  created. 
In  1670,  Pondicherry  was  founded  on  the  coast  of  Coromandel,  after  a 
fruitless  attempt  had  been  made  to  establish  a  colony  on  Madagascar, 
and  this  at  present  constitutes  the  capital  of  the  French  East  India  pos- 
sessions, which,  with  the  exception  of  the  Isle  de  Bourbon  in  the  Indian 
Ocean,  and  the  most  profitable  colony  France  possesses,  exist  only  in  name. 

It  would  appear  that  during  the  years  1841  and  1842,  three  great  powers 
were  animated  by  the  desire  of  territorial  acquisition  in  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
This  was  evinced  by  the  seizure  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  by  Lord 
George  Paulet,  the  Marquesas  by  Du  Petit  Thouars,  and  the  occupation 
of  Monterey  by  Commodore  Jones.  The  former  and  latter  proceedings 
being  unsanctioned  by  the  respective  governments,  the  posts  were  quietly 
restored  ;  but  the  French  still  retain  Nuheva,  and  with  this  for  a  starting- 
point,  they  have  continued  to  augment  their  territory  by  force  or  fraud, 
until,  at  the  present  day  their  possessions  extend  from  the  Gambier  Islands 
in  the  East,  Ion.  134°  55'  W.,  in  an  almost  uninterrupted  line  for  57  de- 
gress, to  New  Caledonia  in  the  West,  Ion.  168°  E.,  a  distance  of  nearly 
3,500  miles,  including  the  Marquesas,  Tahitian,  Paumotu,  Gambier,  and 
some  of  the  Austral  Islands,  Wallis  Island,  and  New  Caledonia,  thus 
giving  her  apparently  the  command  of  the  great  commercial  routes  from 
the  North  to  the  South  Pacific. 

La  Perouse,  Bougainville,  D'Entrecastreaux,  and  other  French  voyagers 
cotemporaneous  with  Cook  and  Wallis,  traversed  this  ocean  during  the 
last  century,  to  the  credit  of  France  and  the  advancement  of  science  ; 
but  to  Rear-Admiral  Du  Petit  Thouars,  about  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth 
century,  was  reserved  the  honor  of  territorial  conquest  in  the  Pacific. 
During  the  year  1841,  a  squadron,  under  the  command  of  that  officer, 
sailed  from  France,  under  secret  orders,  and  its  denouement  was  the 
seizure  of  the  Marquesas  Islands,  on  the  first  of  May,  1842. 

These  islands,  eight  in  number,  were  discovered  by  the  Spanish  navi- 
gator Alvaro  Mendana,  in  1596,  who  called  them  after  the  Marquis  of 
Mendoza,  then  viceroy  of  Peru.  After  remaining  long  unnoticed,  they 
were  again  visited  by  Cook,  and  in  1791  by  Captain  Ingraham,  an  Ameri- 
can, who  gave  them  the  name  of  Washington  Islands.  Commodore  Porter 
found  them  a  convenient  rendezvous  for  his  operations  in  the  Pacific 
during  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain,  and,  it  is  said,  claimed  them  in 
behalf  of  the  United  States.  From  Nuheva  Bay,  he  carried  destruction 
to  the  British  whaling  fleet  then  cruising  in  this  ocean,  until  his  vessel, 
the  Essex,  was  subsequently  captured  by  two  English  cruisers  at  Val- 
paraiso, under  the  guns  of  a  neutral  port. 

The  account  of  Du  Petit  Thouars  is  worth  transcribing,  on  account  of 


422  Appendix  III. 


its  ingenuousness.  Though'  plausible  to  French  credulity,  an  Ameri- 
can or  an  Englishman  would  at  once  detect  the  artifice,  for  it  is  more 
than  probable  that  the  plan  for  obtaining  possession  of  these  islands,  and 
of  subsequent  conquests  in  this  ocean,  had  been  matured  by  M.  Guizot 
long  prior  to  the  sailing  of  the  fleet. 

"  On  the  28th  we  got  to  the  western  coast  of  the  island  Tahuata,  (the  Christina,) 
but  were  prevented  by  calms  from  coming  to  anchor  in  the  Bay-  of  Valtahu  before 
three  in  the  afternoon.  Scarcely  had  we  arrived  before  we  received  a  visit  from 
M.  Francois  de  Paula,  head  of  the  mission  establishment  in  this  island  ;  and  the 
next  day  the  king  Yotete  came  on  board,  accompanied  by  the  Rev.  gentleman,  who 
was  to  act  as  interpreter.  The  king  appeared  delighted  to  see  me  again,  and 
said  that  he  would  have  come  to  visit  me  the  evening  before,  but  that  he  thought 
we  were  Americans.  He  then  informed  rne,  that,  about  four  months  before,  a 
whaling  boat  belonging  to  an  American  vessel  had  arrived,  after  several  days  suf- 
fering for  want  of  provision,  at  the  island  of  Fatuhiva.  The  crew  were  received 
with  musket-shots  when  they  were  about  to  land,  and  lost  a  man  by  the  unex- 
pected attack.  Being  thus  prevented  from  landing,  they  proceeded  to  Tahuata, 
where  the  king  scarcely  received  them  better,  for  he  stripped  them  of  their  clothes, 
and  took  away  the  boat  in  which  they  came  on  shore.  Some  time  after,  a  whaler 
having  put  in,  they  were  received  on  board,  but  protested,  before  embarking,  against 
the  acts  of  piracy  practised  against  them,  and  threatened  Yotete  with  the  ven- 
geance of  their  government.  The  king  being  since  then  enlightened  on  this 
point  by  the  missionaries,  and  by  some  captains  who  had  put  into  the  Bay  of 
Vaitatu,  got  alarmed  as  to  the  consequences  of  the  affair,  and  was  still  in  a  state 
of  great  anxiety  when  he  saw  me.  He  requested  my  protection,  and  besought 
me  to  leave  on  my  departure  a  portion  of  the  crew  and  some  of  the  cannon  of 
the  vessel.  I  replied  that  I  should  do  so,  provided  he  agreed  to  acknowledge  the 
sovereignty  of  his  Majesty  Louis  Philippe,  and  hoist  the  French  flag.  He  eagerly 
accepted  these  propositions,  and  we  agreed  that  the  declaration  of  possession 
having  been  taken  should  be  made  on  the  1st  May,  his  Majesty's  fete  day.  On 
that  day,  at  ten  in  the  morning,  I  landed  with  the  officers  of  the  vessel.  A  guard 
of  sixty  men  had  preceded  me,  and  had  drawn  up  in  line  near  the  flag-staff,  to 

?ay  due  honor  to  the  national  colors.  When  I  arrived  at  the  spot,  I  declared  that 
took  possession  of  the  island  of  Tahuata  and  the  rest  of  the  islands  of  this 
group,  in  the  name  of  his  Majesty  Louis  Philippe.  The  flag  was  immediately 
displayed,  and  we  saluted  it  with  cries  of  '  Vive  le  roi  /'  which  was  followed  by 
three  rounds  of  musketry  and  by  martial  music  executed  by  the  band.  My  ship, 
the  '  Reine  Blanche,'  also  fired  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns.  The  inhabitants 
testified  the  greatest  delight,  and  besought  me  to  land  the  cannons  at  once.  We 
proceeded  to  the  king's  habitation,  where  the  act  of  recognizing  the  sovereignty  of 
his  Majesty  was  signed." 

By  the  preceding,  it  will  be  perceived  that  M.  Du  Petit  Thouars  hu- 
manely interfered  to  protect  the  Marquesans  from  any  collision  with 
America  on  account  of  an  alleged  insult  to  its  flag,  although  he  must  have 
known  that  the  United  States  would  never  permit  a  rear-admiral  to  inter- 
fere with  the  requirements  of  a  national  obligation.  M.  Du  Petit  Thouars 
probably  formed  his  estimate  of  the  character  of  American  whaling  cap- 
tains from  that  of  his  own  countrymen  in  some  portions  of  this  ocean, 
who,  for  the  trespassing  of  a  goat,  or  for  the  privilege  of  imbibing  choice 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  423 

brandy  for  something  less  than  a  livre  per  glass,  petition  their  consuls  to 
make  a  national  affair  of  their  complaints,  and  forthwith  a  frigate  is  sum- 
moned, a  diplomatic  correspondence  ensues,  and  the  honor  of  France 
is  maintained.  Our  whaling  masters,  whose  pursuits  are  abroad,  seldom 
yearn  for  maternal  protection — an  affair  with  a  hostile  tribe  is  usually  ad- 
justed by  them  on  their  own  account.  M.  Du  Petit  Thouars  must  also  have 
known  that  each  island,  as  well  as  each  valley  of  this  group,  is  in  itself 
independent;  and  whatever  maybe  the  concessions  of  the  chief  of  one 
district,  they  are  in  nowise  binding  upon  those  of  the  lands  adjoining. 

The  policy  of  M.  Guizot  in  seizing  this  group  may  be  inferred  from  his 
remarks  in  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  on  the  31st  of  March,  1843,  sug- 
gested by  a  claim  set  up  by  the  French  government  to  renew  an  attempted 
sovereignty  over  the  island  of  Madagascar,  on  which  occasion  he  said 
that,  "  in  endeavoring  to  form  colonial  establishments,  it  was  not  the 
policy  of  France  in  any  way  to  compromise  herself  by  hostile  collision 
with  the  natives  of  those  countries,  or  foreign  powers  generally.  No,  that 
which  is  advantageous  to  France  and  indispensable  for  her,  is  to  possess 
points  on  the  globe  destined  to  become  great  commercial  centres  of  trade 
and  navigation,  and  which  will  prove  secure  and  strong  maritime  stations, 
which  would  at  once  serve  in  aid  of  our  commerce  by  affording  harbors 
and  shelter  for  our  shipping,  with  means  of  repair,  without  our  being 
compelled  to  resort  for  those  objects  to  foreign  ports."  It  would  also  ap- 
pear that  similar  sentiments  were  entertained  by  Louis  Philippe,  for  at 
the  opening  of  the  French  Chambers  on  the  9th  of  January  of  the  same 
year,  in  his  speech  was  made  the  following  allusion  to  the  then  recent 
conquest :  "  By  the  occupation  of  the  Marquesas,  I  have  secured  to  our 
navigation  in  those  distant  seas  a  protection  and  refuge  of  which  the  ne- 
cessity had  long  been  felt." 

The  position  of  the  French  at  these  islands  has  been  maintained  at 
comparatively  great  expense,  and  unattended  with  beneficial  results. 
The  requirements  of  their  commerce  in  this  ocean,  which  do  not  exceed 
the  necessity  of  a  few  dozen  ships,  can  well  dispense  with  the  isolated  as- 
sistance immured  in  the  Bay  of  Nuheva.  It  was  found  that  the  sov- 
ereignty conceded  by  King  "  Yotete"  pertained  to  himself  alone,  for  to 
this  day  the  Marquesans  maintain  a  haughty  independence.  A  few 
years  since  this  port  was  abandoned,  but  for  political  reasons  has  been 
again  resumed.  It  is  said  that  several  State  prisoners  who  had  rendered 
themselves  politically  obnoxious  to  Louis  Napoleon,  are  now  dwelling 
amid  the  groves  of  Nuheva. 

The  fortifications  at  this  place  consist  of  barracks  erected  upon  a  pro- 
jecting rock,  near  the  head  of  the  bay  ;  these  are  defended  in  front  by 
breastwork  and  glacis  ;  in  the  rear  the  former  has  been  perforated  for  the 


424  Appendix  III. 


convenience  of  musketry.  A  large  stone  mansion  has  been  erected  for 
the  officers  ;  it  is  two  stories  high,  and  the  upper  is  pleasantly  relieved 
by  a  balcony  extending  around  it.  The  governor's  residence  is  neatly 
built  of  wood  and  stone.  The  general  effect  of  these  structures  is  that  of 
relief  to  the  natural  wildness  of  the  scenery. 

Leaving  this  bay,  the  fleet,  consisting  of  the  "  Reine  Blanche"  and  "  La 
Diane"  of  50  guns  each,  and  "  L'Uraine"  of  64  guns,  proceeded  to  the 
Tahitian  Islands  ;  and  the  second  grand  act  in  the  drama  was  the  de- 
thronement of  Queen  Pomare  on  the  6th  November,  1843,  and  the  formal 
occupation  of  her  possessions  on  the  9th  day  of  the  same  month,  on 
which  occasion  300  men  were  landed  in  the  town  to  erect  fortifications, 
and  about  100  men,  consisting  of  mechanics  and  general  laborers.  It 
cannot  be  denied  that  this  consummation  was  hastened  by  the  un- 
charitable course  pursued  by  the  Tahitian  government  towards  the 
two  Roman  Catholic  missionaries  that  had  recently  arrived  at  that 
island,  probably  instigated  by  the  counsels  of  Mr.  Pritchard,  a  Protestant 
missionary  and  acting  British  consul.  Previous  to  this,  redress  had  been 
demanded  by  Captain  La  Place  of  the  "  Artemise"  for  alleged  indignities 
towards  French  subjects.  Having  made  the  island,  his  vessel  accidentally 
touched  upon  the  reef  on  the  north  shore,  and  but  for  the  timely  assist- 
ance of  the  natives,  would  have  been  lost — they  at  least  rendered  essential 
service.  Considerable  damage  was  sustained  by  the  vessel,  which  was 
detained  in  the  harbor  for  a  considerable  length  of  time  undergoing  re- 
pairs, in  which  Captain  La  Place  was  aided  by  the  subjects  of  Queen 
Pomare.  These  having  been  completed,  he  showed  his  true  colors  and  de- 
manded the  payment  of  a  certain  amount  within  a  specified  time,  otherwise 
he  would  discharge  his  broadsides  indiscriminately  upon  the  town.  The 
sum  of  $2,000  was  collected  by  Mr.  Pritffhard  from  the  foreign  merchants, 
and  the  honor  of  France  nobly  maintained. 

The"  banishing  of  two  unoffending  persons,  simply  on  account  of 
ecclesiastical  dogmas,  to  Wallis  Island,  more  than  1,500  miles  distant, 
where  from  savages  they  found  a  more  hospitable  reception  than  among 
those  professing  to  worship  the  same  God,  was  an  act  only  equalled  by 
the  mistaken  zeal  of  the  American  missionaries  at  the  Hawaiian  Islands, 
who,  in  1831,  expelled  from  the  jurisdiction  of  their  hierarchy  Messrs. 
Bachelot  and  Short.  Both  suffered  their  schismatic  prejudices  to  obtain 
the  ascendency  and  tempt  them  to  extremes  ;  subsequent  embarrassments 
have  been  the  atonement  for  their  unchristian  conduct.  In  both  instances 
the  act  was  premature  and  censurable.  On  the  simple  ground  of  inter- 
national rights  or  privileges,  it  merited  the  prompt  interference  of  France 
in  behalf  of  her  subjects,  though  undeserving  the  presumption  with 
which  that  nation  has  subsequently  asserted  her  unjust  demands. 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  425 

It  is  unnecessary  to  recapitulate  the  events  connected  with  the  conquest 
of  the  Tahitian  Islands,  or  to  notice  the  efforts  of  British  officials  and 
residents  to  ward  off  this  consummation  of  French  annexation  policy.  It 
need  only  be  said  that  the  claims  of  Du-  Petit  Thouars  were  purposely 
estimated  beyond  the  ability  of  either  the  queen's  government  or  the 
foreign  residents  to  meet  them,  and  the  consequence  was  the  formal 
occupation  of  Tahiti  and  Moorea. 

The  conquest  was  by  no  means  bloodless,  and  together  with  the  nu- 
merous lives  sacrificed,  hundreds  of  thousands  of  lives  have  been  ex- 
pended on  this  as  yet  useless  acquisition.  The  natives  were  brave  and 
jealous  of  their  liberty,  and  in  many  a  hard-fought  battle  among  their 
wild  ravines  they  came  off  conquerors.  It  was  only  when  betrayed  at 
Fataoa  by  a  renegade  countryman  that  they  were  forced  to  surrender. 
This  important  post,  the  Constantino  of  Tahiti,  is  the  key  of  the  island, 
and  is  situate  among  the  lofty  mountains  in  the  rear  of  the  town,  and 
about  five  miles  distant  from  it.  Its  scenery  is  said  to  be  the  most  wildly 
romantic  among  the  South  Sea  Islands  ;  it  is  at  present  occupied  by  a 
French  garrison,  and  is  considered  impregnable.  During  this  war,  sev- 
eral attempts  were  made  by  the  French  upon  the  leeward  or  Society 
Islands,  at  Huahine,  Raiatea,  and  Borabora,  but  their  efforts  were  un- 
attended by  advantageous  results,  and  at  the  former  island  the  troops 
under  Bonard  were  signally  repulsed.  On  this  occasion  their  chagrin 
was  manifested  in  cutting  down  bread-fruit,  orange  and  fruit  trees  ;  but 
the  natives  declared  that  rather  than  yield,  they  would  live  In  the  mount- 
ains upon  yams  and  roots.  British  interference  at  a  later  period  con- 
fined them  to  the  Georgian  Islands,  leaving  the  Society  Islanders  free  to 
act  for  themselves  in  the  absence  of  French  protection. 

The  Protectorate  once  established  has  continued  with  various  modifi- 
cations or  changes  to  the  present  day,  conforming  to  the  two  great 
political  phases  that  have  opened  a  new  chapter  in  French  history. 
The  soldiers  that  charged  through  these  mountain  wilds  with  shouts 
of  "  Vive  le  roi ! "  were  quietly  reposing  from  their  fatigues  when  the 
stirring  strains  of  the  Marseillaise,  chanted  beneath  shady  groves,  an- 
nounced the  dawn  of  a  new  era  in  the  destinies  of  France — the  birth 
of  a  republic,  the  embryo  of  an  empire.  But  the  eagle  of  liberty  had 
hardly  soared  aloft,  before  a  nation's  homage  was  rendered  up  in  one 
enthusiastic  cry  of  "Vive  VEmpergur  /"  re-echoed  from  the  shores  of  the 
South  Pacific. 

The  extent  of  the  naval  armament  stationed  in  this  ocean,  including 
steamer,  frigate,  corvette,  schooner,  &c.,  would  not  probably  exceed  half 
a  dozen  vessels  of  every  class  ;  and  the  estimated  force,  including  artil- 
lery and  marine,  now  occupying  the  Georgian  and  Marquesas  Islands,  is 


426  Appendix  III. 


considerably  less  than  a  thousand  men.  Opposite  the  entrance  to  the 
harbor  of  Papeete  is  Fort  Uranie,  which  commands  it,  and  the  yard  of 
the  arsenal  makes  a  prodigal  display  of  guns  of  heavy  calibre  and  pro- 
jectiles. On  fete  days,  companies  in  full  uniform  are  said  to  make  an 
imposing  appearance  in  the  streets  of  the  town. 

The  policy  adopted  in  the  administration  of  affairs  by  the  Protectorate 
is  arbitrary  in  the  extreme  for  a  government  professing  to  encourage  com- 
merce, and  in  its  present  condition  partakes  more  of  the  military  outpost 
than  the  commercial  colony.  The  governors  have  been  usually  naval 
officers,  above  interesting  themselves  in  theories  that  might  tend  to  the 
advancement  of  commerce  or  agriculture,  and  the  confirmation  of  this 
will  be  found  by  comparing  the  former  condition  of  these  islands  with 
the  present  manifest  results.  The  natives  have  been  completely  subdued ; 
no  offensive  weapons  of  any  description  being  allowed  in  their  posses- 
sion, their  humiliation  is  complete.  No  institutions  for  their  improve- 
ment, that  formerly  existed,  have  been  encouraged,  and  subsequent  arbi- 
trary legislation  has  in  a  measure  suppressed  them.  A  sort  of  conscrip- 
tion has  been  adopted  instead,  and  young  men  are  made  acquainted  with 
the  manual  exercise.  After  a  certain  term  of  service,  they  retire,  and  are 
succeeded  by  others.  Thus,  their  instructors  are  forging  a  formidable 
weapon  against  themselves,  in  the  event  of  future  troubles.  The  Code 
Napoleon  is  that  at  present  in  use  ;  and  to  suit  the  emergency,  the  judges 
of  their  tribunals  are  either  drawn  from  the  military  or  civilians,  while 
his  Excellency  (at  present  Gov.  Page)  professes  to  be,  in  his  own  words, 
"  the  law."  An  instance  or  two  will  suffice  to  show  that  the  policy  pur- 
sued by  this  government  is  detrimental  to  its  own  interests,  if,  as  it  pro- 
fesses, it  seeks  to  encourage  commerce ;  and  with  reference  to  this  suicidal 
course,  the  hackneyed  proverb  of  "  penny  wise  and  pound  foolish"  might 
not  be  inappropriately  applied.  The  following  extract  of  a  letter  from 
an  American  ship-master,  of  Massachusetts,  is  an  abridged  statement  of 
facts  pertaining  to  his  case,  as  they  actually  occurred.  Its  impartial 
tenor  is  its  best  feature  : — 

"  On  the  first  of  January,  1853,  my  vessel,  the  '  E e,'  of  Mystic,  sailed 

from  Honolulu,  with  about  300  tons  whalebone  and  about  $20,000  worth  of  furs, 
bound  for  New-Bedford.  On  the  22d  of  January,  being  then  about  500  miles 
N.  w.  of  Tahiti,  my  vessel  sprung  aleak,  and  I  thought  it  prudent  to  put  into 
Papeete  and  prevent  it  before  attempting  to  double  Cape  Horn.  I  arrived  there 
on  the  25th,  and  immediately  applied  to  the"  government  (through  our  consul)  for 
leave  to  discharge  and  store  my  cargo.  It  was  very  promptly  granted,  and  I  was 
allowed  to  place  it  in  a  building  belonging  to  the  government.  After  discharging, 
and  waiting  several  days  for  a  vessel  then  undergoing  repairs  to  Jje  launched 
from  the  railway,  the  government  officials  took  charge  of  my  vessel,  and  attempted 
to  haul  her  upon  the  railway,  but  the  cradle  in  which  the  vessel  sits  when  drawn 
up  was  very  improperly  constructed,  and  it  would  not  fit  her  bottom ;  so,  after 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  427 

hauling  her  up,  they  were  obliged  to  launch  her  again.  A  day  or  two  afterwards, 
they  made  a  second  attempt,  but  after  getting  her  '  fore  foot '  about  a  foot  out  of 
water,  they  found  it  necessary  to  launch  her  again,  and  in  doing  this  the  '  rail ' 
broke,  and  the  cradle  brought  up  with  such  a  jerk  that  it  threw  the  vessel  from  it, 
her  heel  falling  down  upon  the  coral  bottom  and  her  bow  rising  up  in  the  air. 
In  this  position  she  was  allowed  to  remain  for  eight  days,  and  had  she  not  been  a 
very  strong  vessel,  she  would  have  broke  in  two.  As  it  was,  she  was  so  badly 
4  hogged '  (bent  or  twisted)  and  strained,  that  I  formally  abandoned  her  to  the 
French  government,  and  claimed  as  damages  the  value  of  the  vessel,  freight, 
money,  and  stores. 

"About  three  weeks  afterwards,  our  consul,  Wm.  H.  Kelly,  Esq.,  received  notice 
from  the  Government  that  my  vessel  was  a  nuisance  in  the  harbor,  and  that  if  I 
did  not  resume  possession  of  her,  I  should  be  imprisoned.  Being  in  daily  expecta- 
tion of  the  arrival  of  a  vessel  in  which  to  ship  my  cargo,  I  thought  it  best  to  re- 
ceive her  back  again  under  a  formal  protest,  being  compelled  so  to  do — but  the 
next  day  I  advertised  her  to  be  sold  at  auction  as  she  then  lay,  and  on  the  fourth 
day  after  taking  possession,  she  was  sold  for  the  benefit  of  whom  it  might  con- 
cern. She  brought  about  $2,500,  and  the  stores  about  $400  more.  After  waiting 
until  July  6th,  t  was  enabled  to  get  to  sea  again,  with  my  cargo,  on  board  the 
'  James  Edward.'  The  Government  declined  receiving  any  pay  for  the  storage  of 
my  cargo. 

"  The  facilities  for  repairing  vessels  at  Tahiti  are  tolerably  good,  but  are  all  par- 
alyzed by  want  of  sober  mechanics  ;  the  Government  is  at  all  times  willing  to 
afford  all  the  assistance  in  its  power — and  although  in  my  case  /  think  they  be- 
haved dishonorably,  yet,  had  not  the  railway  broken,  my  vessel  would  probably 
have  been  repaired  by  them  with  dispatch,  and  at  a  moderate  expense.  As  to  re- 
freshments and  supplies  for  shipping,  I  have  no  doubt  that  if  the  natives  could 
feel  assured  of  finding  a  sale  for  their  fruits,  yams,  potatoes,  &c.,  they  would  fur- 
nish almost  any  quantity.  During  the  year  previous  to  my  arrival  at  Papeete, 
under  the  prospect  of  a  large  number  of  whalers  arriving  to  refit  there,  they  raised 
great  quantities  of  vegetables,  but  the  %hips  visiting  the  port  were  too  few  to  pur- 
chase them,  and  the  consequence  was  loss  of  produce  by  decay,  as  remuneration 
for  their  industry ;  and  the  following  year,  owing  to  their  disappointment,  they 
barely  raised  enough  for  the  consumption  of  the  inhabitants,  hence  the  scarcity 
we  experienced. 

"  The  harbor  is  very  safe  and  commodious,  of  easy  access,  having  two  en- 
trances ;  a  vessel  should  not  attempt  to  enter  without  a  steady  breeze,  however, 
as  the  current  sets  out  of  the  passage  through  the  reef."  *  *  * 

The  writer  has  modestly  omitted  to  mention  that  a  survey  was  held 
upon  his  vessel  by  competent  ship-masters  then  in  port,  who  were  unani- 
mous in  pronouncing  upon  the  damages  sustained  ;  also  that  a  survey  for 
a  similar  purpose  was  held  by  a  committee  of  French  officers,  especially 
appointed,  who  concurred  in  certifying  that  the  vessel  had  sustained  no 
injury  whatever,  although  when  she  was  re-launched  it  was  found  ne- 
cessary to  man  the  pumps  day  and  night  to  keep  her  afloat.  A  correct 
idea  of  the  commercial  and  municipal  regulations  of  the  capital  of  French 
possessions  in  the  Pacific  cannot  he  formed  without  introducing  the 
"  Port  Regulations  for  Tahiti,"  a  copy  of  which  is  appended. 


428  Appendix  III. 


[Translation.] 

PORT    REGULATIONS, 

TAHITI. 

PORTS  OPEN  TO  FOREIGN-GOING  SHIPS. 

ART.  I. 

No  foreign-going  vessel  can,  without  special  permission,  or  urgent  necessity, 
anchor  in  any  of  the  ports  of  the  islands  subject  to  the  French  Protectorate, 
other  than  the  following,  viz.  : 
PAPEETE  and  TAUNOA,  at  Tahiti. 
PAPETOAI,  at  Moorea. 
Offenders  will  be  liable  to  a  fine  of  from  one  hundred  to  five  hundred  francs. 

REGULATIONS  FOR  THE  COASTING  TRADE. 

ART.  II. 

The  coasting  trade  of  the  islands,  subject  to  the  Protectorate,  is  reserved  exclu- 
sively to  vessels  carrying  the  French  or  Protectorate  flag. 

All  persons  infringing  the  provisions  of  this  article,  will  be  liable  to  a  fine  of 
from  one  thousand  to  two  thousand  francs  for  the  first  offence,  and  to  a  double  fine 
in  case  of  repetition. 

PILOTAGE. 

ART.  III. 

The  pilots  licensed  by  the  Commissioner  of  the  Republic  shall  alone  have  the 
right  of  exercising  the  office  of  pilot. 

They  are  to  be  paid  according  to  the  following  tariff : — 

Francs.  Centimes. 

Foreign  line  of  battle  ships  and  frigates 120  00 

Foreign  corvettes  with  upper  decks 90  00 

Foreign  single-decked  corvettes,  and  vessels  of 

war  of  inferior  class 60  00 

All   merchant   vessels,    per   metre  draught  of 

water 11  70 

In  giving  notice  of  their  intended  departure  at  the  Port  Office,  captains  will  be 
required  to  present  a  receipt  for  the  pilotage  dues. 

ART.  IV. 

Vessels  entering  or  leaving  without  a  pilot,  shall  pay  one  half  of  the  pilotage 
dues  established  by  the  preceding  Article. 

ART.  V. 

When  the  pilot  arrives  in  the  offing  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  in  a  vessel,  he 
is  to  inquire,  before  boarding  her,  if  any  contagious  disease  exists  on  board.  On 
receiving  a  reply  in  the  negative  from  the  captain,  the  pilot  will  bring  the  vessel 
in.  Should,  however,  a  contrary  answer  be  given,  he  will  not  go  on  board,  but, 
without  leaving  his  boat,  and  having  first  caused  the  quarantine  flag  to  be  hoisted 
in  place  of  the  pilot  flag,  he  will  conduct  the  vessel  to  a  separate  anchorage. 

In  all  cases  the  pilot,  or  in  his  absence,  the  boat  of  the  Port  Office,  6r  of  the 
guard  ship,  will  inform  the  captains,  and  also  masters  of  coasters,  that  they  must 
not  communicate  with  any  one,  before  being  admitted  to  Pratique. 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  429 

ADMISSION  TO  PRATIQUE. 
ART.  VI. 

When  the  vessel  is  anchored,  the  pilot  will  communicate  a  copy  of  these  regu- 
lations ;  in  cases  where  neither  the  guard  ship  nor  the  port  office  intervenes,  the 
pilot  will  himself  address  the  requisite  questions  to  the  captain,  and  after  having 
taken  note  of  his  declarations,  he  will,  according  to  the  circumstances  of  the  case, 
grant  or  refuse  Pratique. 

ART.  VII. 

Vessels  from  foreign  voyages  shall  keep  their  pilot  flag,  and  coasters  their  na- 
tional flag  flying,  until  they  have  been  admitted  to  pratique  ;  and  so  long  as  these 
flags  shall  be  flying,  no  one  can  go  on  board  without  exposing  the  captain  to  a 
fine  of  from  fifty  to  two  hundred  francs. 

ART.  VIII. 

The  pilot,  after  having  questioned  vessels  that  do  not  enter,  will  grant  or  refuse 
them  pratique,  according  to  the  nature  of  their  declarations. 

SANITARY  MEASURES. 
ART.  IX. 

Captains  who  make  incomplete,  inexact,  or  false  declarations,  and'  those  who, 
being  in  quarantine,  communicate  either  with  the  shore  or  harbor,  will  be  liable 
to  a  fine  of  from  200  to  10,000  francs. 

They  will  also  be  liable  to  the  penalties  prescribed  by  the  French  Sanitary- 
Regulations,  if,  in  consequence  of  false  declarations,  or  culpable  proceedings  on 
their  part,  a  contagious  disease  should  make  its  appearance  in  the  country. 

ART.  X. 

Vessels  in  quarantine,  as  well  as  letters  and  packets  coming  from  such  vessels, 
will  be  subjected  to  such  purifying  and  sanitary  measures  as  may  be  directed  by 
the  Chief  of  the  Medical  Department. 

DELIVERY  OF  LETTERS  AND  PACKETS,  AND  OF  MANIFEST. 
ART.  XL 

As  soon  as  a  vessel  is  anchored,  if  she  has  been  admitted  to  pratique,  the  cap- 
tain or  master  of  a  coaster  will  proceed  to  the  Port  Office,  and  there  deliver 
such  letters  and  packets  as  may  have  been  given  into  his  charge,  and  also  his 
general  Manifest. 

Extract  from  the  Customs'1  Regulations. 

"Art.  13.  Every  captain  must,  within  twenty-four  hours  after  his  arrival,  pre- 
sent to  the  Director  of  Customs  his  Manifest,  with  a  detailed  statement  of  the 
ammunition  and  arms  of  every  kind,  and  also  of  the  liquors,  which,  being  subject 
to  import  duties,  cannot  be  landed  without  the  authorization  of  the  Director  of 
Customs.  Those  who  shall  infringe  any  of  these  regulations  will  be  liable  to  a 
fine  of  from  50  to  400  francs. 

"  Any  captain  making  a  false  declaration  respecting  prohibited  goods,  or  those 
the  sale  of  which  is  restricted,  will  be  fined  from  1,000  to  5,000  francs. 

"  Art.  15.  When  vessels  have  on  board  prohibited  goods,  spirits,  arms  or  am- 
munition, intended  alone  for  their  own  consumption  or  for  the  defence  of  the  ship, 
captains  must  present  to  the  Director  of  Customs  a  detailed  declaration  of  such 
kinds  of  stores  within  twenty-four  hours  after  their  arrival.  *  *  * 


430  Appendix  III. 


"Art.  16.  Captains  are  required  to  inform  the  Director  of  Customs  when  the 
landing  of  the  goods  destined  for  the  place  has  been  completed.  *  *  * 

"Art.  18.  The  sale  of  munitions  of  war,  powder,  saltpetre,  projectiles,  muskets, 
arms  of  any  kind,  is  prohibited,  except  under  special  permission  from  the  Com- 
missioner of  the  Republic.  All  goods  of  this  kind  which  may  be  attempted  to  be 
fraudulently  landed,  shall  be  confiscated,  over  and  above  the  fine  imposed  by  the 
Police  Regulations. 

"All  spirits  or  liquors  which  may  be  attempted  to  bo  fraudulently  landed,  shall 
be  confiscated,  as  well  as  the  boat  conveying  them  ;  and  the  captain,  who  is  held 
responsible  for  all  goods  which  may  be  on  board,  under  whatever  conditions,  shall 
be  liable  to  a  fine  of  from  1,000  to  5,000  francs.  In  case  of  a  repetition  of  the 
offence,  the  fine  will  be  from  5,000  to  10,000  francs. 

"Art.  21.  Captains  of  merchant  vessels,  supercargoes,  or  traders,  may  them- 
selves sell  their  goods  under  the  following  conditions. 

"Art.  22.  All  goods  admitted  to  entry  in  the  French  establishments  of  Oceania 
may  be  sold  on  board,  provided  that  they  be  not  sold  by  retail. 

"  Captains,  supercargoes,  or  traders,  must,  however,  in  selling  on  board  by 
wholesale,  previously  obtain  a  license  of  the  first  class,  payable  in  advance,  and 
for  the  period  of  three  months. 

"  Art.  23.  Captains,  supercargoes,  or  traders,  who  may  be  desirous  of  landing 
their  goods  and  opening  a  store  on  shore,  must  take  out  a  license  of  the  first  class, 
payable  in  advance,  and  for  the  period  of  three  months. 

"Art.  24.  The  sale  of  wines  and  spirits  is  prohibited  on  board  ship.  The 
liquors  which  parties  may  be  desirous  of  selling  must  be  sold  on  shore,  either 
through  the  medium  of  a  consignee,  or  directly  by  the  captain  or  his  agent,  who 
will,  however,  have  to  comply  with  the  regulations  respecting  licenses,  and  also 
with  those  respecting  liquors." 

EMBARKING  AND  DISEMBARKING  CREW  AND  PASSENGERS. 

ART.  XII. 

The  captain  or  master  Oi  a  coaster  is  required  to  report  the  number  of  his  crew, 
that  also  of  the  passengers,  and  from  whence  they  come  ;  and  he  must  neither 
embark  nor  disembark  any  one  whatever  without  a  permit  from  the  European 
Police,  which  must  be  presented  either  at  the  office  of  Maritime  Inscription,  or  at 
the  Consulate  where  the  ship's  papers  are  deposited. 

Offenders  will  be  condemned  to  a  fine  of  from  200  to  400  francs  for  each  person 
illegally  disembarked  or  embarked. 

Extract  from  the  Police  Regulations. 

"Art.  44.  No  stranger  is  at  liberty  to  establish  his  domicil  at  Tahiti,  or  to 
reside  there  for  any  period  of  time,  without  having  first  obtained  permission  so 
to  do,  and  made  known  his  domicil.  Every  infringement  will  be  punished  with 
a  fine  of  from  20  to  50  francs." 

CREW  LIST. 
ART.  XIII. 

French  vessels,  and  foreign  vessels  having  no  Consul  here,  will  deposit  their 
crew  lists  at  the  office  of  Maritime  Inscription,  and  shall  receive  them  again  on 
the  eve  of  their  departure. 

The  changes  and  notations  shall  be  inscribed  by  the  Commissary,  who  must  be 
informed  two  days  before  the  sailing  of  the  vessel. 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  431 

REGULATIONS  RELATING  TO  THE  MOORING  OF  VESSELS. 
ART.  IV. 

Captains  will  have  to  change  their  anchorage  when  required  to  do  so  by  the 
Director  of  the  Port. 

ART.  XV. 

No  vessel  is  allowed  to  carry  out  warps  in  such  a  manner  as  to  impede  the 
public  passage. 

REGULATIONS  CONCERNING  THE  CREWS. 
ART.  XVI. 

The  crews  must  be  on  board  half  an  hour  after  gun-fire  in  the  evening,  and 
cannot  return  on  shore  before  morning  gun-fire. 

Offenders  will  be  subjected  to  the  penalties  prescribed  by  the  Police  Regula- 
tions. 

REGULATIONS  CONCERNING  BOATS. 

ART.  XVII. 

After  evening  gun-fire,  no  boat  is  allowed  to  land  except  at  the  Port  Office 
wharf,  under  a  penalty  of  from  10  to  50  francs. 

ART.  XVIII. 

Boats  may  only  remain  alongside  the  public  wharfs  during  the  time  necessary 
for  loading  or  unloading. 

PROHIBITION  TO  RECEIVE  NATIVE  WOMEN  ON  BOARD  WITHOUT 
PERMISSION. 

ART.  XIX. 

It  is  forbidden  to  receive  native  women  on  board  vessels  without  permission 
from  the  Police. 

BALLASTING  AND  DISCHARGING  BALLAST. 
ART.  XX. 

Vessels  are  not  permitted  either  to  take  or  to  deposit  ballast,  except  in  con- 
formity with  the  directions  of  the  Port  Office. 

It  is  expressly  forbidden  to  throw  ballast  into  the  harbor,  under  penalty  of  from 
one  hundred  to  one  thousand  francs,  which  fine  will  be  doubled  in  case  of  repe- 
tition of  the  offence. 

DESERTERS. 

ART.  XXI. 

Captains  are  required  to  make  known  the  absence  of  deserters  within  forty- 
eight  hours,  under  a  penalty  of  from  200  to  500  francs. 

They  cannot  leave  the  port  before  their  deserters  have  been  found,  unless  they 
deposit  for  each  deserter  the  sum  of  fifty  francs,  for  reward  to  the  captors  and 
prison  expenses,  nor  unless  an  accepted  surety  engages  to  pay  these  expenses  for 
them. 

If  the  deserters  are  not  found  within  three  months  after  the  sailing  of  the  ves- 
sel, this  money  will  be  returned  to  the  Consul,  or  to  the  person  appointed  by  the 
captain  to  receive  it,  for  nations  that  have  no  consuls  here. 

All  other  expenses  occasioned  by  deserters  after  the  sailing  of  their  vessels 
will  be  arranged  with  the  Consul,  upon  the  production  of  the  requisite  adminis- 
trative vouchers. 


432  Appendix  III. 


Extract  from  the  Police  Regulations. 

"Art.  70.  *  *  *  If  deserters  are  captured  after  three  days'  absence,  while 
the  vessel  is  in  port,  the  captain  will  have  to  pay  40  francs  for  each  man  for  re- 
ward for  capture  if  they  be  taken  between  Bunaauia  and  Haapape,  and  75  francs 
for  each  man  when  deserters  are  arrested  beyond  those  limits. 

"After  an  absence  of  two  days,  the  amount  to  be  paid  for  capture  will  be  20 
francs  for  the  first  locality,  and  40  francs  for  the  second. 

"After  twenty-four  hours'  absence,  the  amount  to  be  paid  will  be  10  francs  for 
the  first  locality,  and  20  francs  for  the  second. 

"  If  the  deserters  are  not  captured  until  after  the  departure  of  the  vessel,  the 
reward  to  the  captors  will  be  reduced  one  half. 

"  In  every  case,  it  will  be  necessary  to  pay,  in  addition,  to  the  Treasury,  a  fee 
of  10  francs  for  each  arrest,  and  also  the  charge  for  food,  at  the  rate  of  sixty-two 
and  a  half  centimes  per  day. 

"Art.  71.  Whenever  the  gendarmerie  shall  be  legally  required  by  the  captain 
of  a  vessel  to  proceed  on  board,  and  as  a  measure  of  discipline  arrest  one  or  more 
of  his  seamen,  such  arrest  will  entitle  the  gendarmerie  to  receive  a  compensation 
of  10  francs  for  each  man,  in  like  manner  as  for  any  other  arrest  effected  by 
them/' 

ADMISSION  OF  MARINERS  TO  THE  GOVERNMENT  HOSPITAL. 
ART.  XXII. 

Captains,  officers,  and  seamen  of  merchant  vessels  will,  in  case  of  sickness,  be 
admitted  into  the  Government  Hospital  for  treatment,  upon  the  proposal  of  the 
Chief  of  the  Medical  Department  to  the  Commissioner  of  the  Republic. 

In  case  of  admission,  the  charge  for  treatment  and  residence  will  be,  for  all 
parties,  5  francs  per  day. 

In  case  of  the  departure  of  a  vessel  leaving  men  at  the  hospital,  the  captain 
will  be  required  to  pay  into  the  Treasury  the  amount  of  forty  days'  treatment, 
counting  from  the  day  upon  which  the  ship's  papers  shall  have  been  obtained 
from  the  office  of  Maritime  Inscription,  or  the  consul. 

This  payment  shall  be  made  upon  vouchers  prepared  by  the  Commissary,  in 
accordance  with  the  regulations  of  the  hospital  service. 

ASSISTANCE  OFFERED  BY  THE  GOVERNMENT. 
ART.  XXIII. 

Upon 'the  proposal  of  the  Director  of  the  Port,  if  private  industry  cannot  afford 
the  means,  the  Government  will  place  at  the  disposal  of  ships  of  war  and  mer- 
chant vessels  tackling  for  mooring  and  heaving  down,  and  convenient  buildings 
for  receiving  their  crews  and  materials. 

NOTICE  OF  DEPARTURE. 
ART.  XXIV. 

Captains  of  vessels,  whenever  the  length  of  their  stay  permits,  must  give  notice 
of  their  departure  at  the  port  office  forty- eight  hours  beforehand,  and  masters  of 
coasters  twenty-four  hours  before  sailing  ;  in  case  of  their  departure  being  post- 
poned, fresh  notice  is  required. 

When  it  is  desired  that  a  vessel  should  remain  less  than  forty-eight  hours  in 
port,  the  notice  of  departure  should  be  given  on  the  day  of  arrival. 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  433 

CLEARANCE  TO  BE  PRESENTED  ON  BOARD  THE  GUARD  SHIP. 

ART.  XXV. 

Before  getting  underway,  the  captains  or  masters  of  coasters  will  deliver  up 
at  the  Port  Office  the  copy  of  the  Port  Regulations  communicated  to  them  on 
their  arrival ;  they  will  also  there  receive  letters,  packets,  and  a  clearance,  certi- 
fying that  they  have  complied  with  all  the  formalities  prescribed  by  these  regula- 
tions, which  clearance  they  will  present  on  board  the  guard  ship. 

ART.  XXVI. 

The  crews,  whenever  they  go  on  shore,  will  be  subject  to  the  police  regulations 
of  the  country,  as  well  as  to  the  customs'  regulations,  of  which  captains  can  in- 
form themselves  at  the  Custom  House. 

Extract  from  the  police  Regulations. 

"Art.  36.  Drunken  people,  either  foreigners  or  natives,  who  shall  be  disorderly, 
or  render  themselves  an  object  of  scandal,  will  be  put  into  prison  until  their 
drunkenness  has  passed  off,  without  prejudice  of  the  fine. 

"Art.  42.  All  disputes  in  public,  contrary  to  good  order,  will  be  punished  with 
a  fine  of  from  50  to  200  francs,  and  also  from  1  to  3  days'  imprisonment ;  in  case 
of  a  renewal  of  the  offence,  the  fine  will  be  from  200  to  500  francs,  and  the  im- 
prisonment from  3  to  5  days. 

"Art.  14.  All  persons  are  forbidden  to  ride  at  a  gallop  within  the  limits  of 
Papeete,  in  the  space  comprised  between  the  Uranie  Fort  and  the  bridge  over  the 
river  Pape-ava,  on  the  Papaoa  road.  Offenders  will  be  punished  with  a  fine  of  10 
francs,  without  prejudice  of  damages,  should  there  be  ground  for  any. 

"Art.  65.  Every  person  arrested  for  a  violation  of  the  police  or  other  regula- 
tions, when  such  violation  shall  not  involve  the  prosecution  of  the  party,  shall 
pay  10  francs  for  fees  of  arrest,  and  62£  centimes  for  food." 

ART.  XXVII. 

Fines  imposed  on  vessels  must  be  paid  within  five  days,  at  the  furthest,  from 
the  date  of  condemnation. 

In  default  of  payment  within  the  time  specified,  or  of  the  acceptance  of  security 
by  the  Government  in  cases  of  inability  to  pay,  a  part  or  the  whole  of  the  cargo 
will  be  sold  ;  the  vessel  itself  can  be  retained  to  liquidate  the  debt. 

ART.  XXVIII. 

The  Port  Regulations,  dated  the  5th  of  April,  1847,  and  all^the  provisions  of 
previous  regulations  and  orders,  in  so  far  as  they  are  contrary  to  the  present 
regulations,  are  hereby  abrogated. 

Done  at  Papeete,  the  6th  of  September,  1850. 

The  Commissioner  of  the  French  Republic,  &c. 
(Signed) 

BONARD. 

An  instance  of  the  arbitrary  enforcement  of  Article  13th  of  "The 
Customs'  Regulations"  occurred  a  short  time  since.  An  English  brig, 
the  "  Maid  of  Julpha,"  owned  and  commanded  by  Capt.  R.  N.  Beauvais, 
arrived  from  the  Marquesas,  where  it  had  been  trading  with  the  natives, 

28 


434  Appendix  III. 

having  on  board  the  usual  trinkets  acceptable  to  savages,  also  a  few  con- 
demned muskets  in  the  lower  hold.  The  anchor  was  let  go  by  the  pilot 
on  Saturday,  who  furnished  no  copy  of  the  P.ort  Regulations  ;  on  going 
ashore  the  captain  obtained  them,  when,  to  his  surprise,  he  learned  that 
he  had  committed  a  serious  error  in  omitting  to  include  his  useless 
weapons  in  the  manifest  already  handed  in.  With  his  consignee,  he  pro- 
ceeded forthwith  to  the  office  of  the  Director  of  Customs,  but  that  official 
was  absent ;  time  was  flying,  and  he  hastened  to  the  British  consul  to 
state  the  case  to  him.  Again  the  Director  was  sought,  but  the  search 
proved  fruitless ;  the  hour  for  closing  the  office  passed,  and  it  would  only  be 
opened  on  the  Monday  following,  when  nearly  forty-eight  hours  would  have 
elapsed.  He  was  subsequently  summoned  to  appear  before  the  tribunal, 
and  notwithstanding  the  evidence  adduced  in  his  favor  by  his  consul,  he 
was  fined  to  the  full  extent  of  the  law.  This  outrage  on  an  English  sub- 
ject was  ostensibly  for  the  violation  of  the  13th  Article,  but  it  was  alleged 
behind  the  curtain  that  he  had  traded  with  the  Marquesans  in  contraband 
goods,  muskets  and  ammunition,  but  of  this  they  had'not  a  shadow  of 
proof. 

It  was  attempted,  after  the  promulgation  of  this  law,  to  adopt  a  similar 
course  of  proceeding  with  American  whalers  who  were  occasionally  guilty 
of  this  "  sin  of  omission  ;"  but  by  the  prompt  interference  of  our  consul, 
•who  represented  that  the  adoption  of  such  an  illiberal  measure  would  be 
virtually  to  exclude  American  commerce  from  their  ports,  the  accident 
has  been  subsequently  overlooked.  The  landing  of  either  pistol  or  fowl- 
ing-piece without  a  "  permit"  subjects  the  offender  to  an  exorbitant  fine,  be- 
sides the  confiscation  of  the  weapon.  It  is  the  enforcement  of  such  petty 
restrictions  as  these  that  tend  more  than  anything  to  frighten  commerce 
*from  French  colonial  ports. 

The  facilities  for  apprehending  deserters  are  unsurpassed  by  those  of 
any  other  port  in  the  Pacific,  and  vessels  may  visit  Tahiti  without  fearing 
trouble  in  this  respect. 

It  is  not  to  be  inferred  from  Article  44th  of  Police  Regulations,  that  a 
stranger  is  to  be  in  any  way  embarrassed  by  unwarranted  prohibitions 
during  a  residence  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Protectorate,  or  from  the 
subsequent  articles  under  this  head  included  in  the  Port  Regulations. 
Any  person  whose  propensities  are  not  such  as  to  outrage  decency,  or  to 
subvert  the  requirements  essential  to  the  social  tranquillity  and  law  and 
order  of  a  community,  need  apprehend  no  impertinence  from  the  gen- 
darmerie, a  well-disciplined  body,  but  may  seek  every  rational  enjoyment 
in  a  manner  consistent  with  either  taste  or  pursuits.  The  following  is 
the  form  of  the  permit  referred  to  in  Article  44th,  and  which  every  person 
is  required  to  obtain  on  landing,  after  having  made  known  his  dornicil :— 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  435 

£t&&&&&&J^&&£ukA^&2k£^)^ 

No. 

TERMIS  DE  SEJOFR. 

Le  Sieur  est  autorise  a  sejourner 

provisoirement  a  Papeete,  sous  la  caution  de 

Papeete  le  185 

L'officier  charge  des  affaires  Europeenes. 

NOT  A.  —  Les  cautions  repondront  moralement 
de  rindividu,  dies  devront  declarer  qu'il  est  a 
leur  connaissance  que  Vhomme  qu'elles  cau- 
tionnent,  jouit  d'une  bonne  reputation,  et  a  les 
moyens  de  pourvoir  a  sa  subsistance  pendant 
son  sejour  Taiti. 

Signature  des  personnes  qui  cautionnent.  (Prix  2  francs.) 


[Translation.] 
PERMIT  OF  RESIDENCE. 

Mr.  -  is  authorized  to  reside  provisionally  in  Papeete,  under  the 
surety  of  -  .  -  . 

PAPEETE,  --  —  ,  185  . 

-----  ,  Charge  of  European  Affairs. 

N.  B.  —  Sureties  are  responsible  for  the  moral  character  of  the  individual  ;  they 
must  declare  that,  according  to  their  belief,  the  person  for  whom  they  are  answer- 
able enjoys  a  good  reputation,  and  has  the  means  of  subsistence  during  his  so- 
journ in  Tahiti. 

Signature  of  surety.  (Price  2  francs.) 

Apparent  results  since  the  estahlishment  of  the  Protectorate,  are  the 
moral  retrogression  of  the  natives,  a  lack  of  commercial  vitality,  and  the 
fetters  placed  upon  religious  freedom.  Let  us  at  present  briefly  notice 
the  last  of  these,  which  must  necessarily  involve  the  former. 

The  London  Missionary  Society,  in  selecting  teachers  as  instruments  for 
prosecuting  their  laudable  enterprise,  have  always  endeavored  to  engage 
only  those  of  approved  worth  and  ability,  and  these  have  been  sent  forth 
unfettered  by  any  sectarianism  whatever,  simply  to  instil  into  the  minds 
of  their  converts  the  consoling  assurances  of  salvation,  by  faith  in  re- 
vealed Christianity,  leaving  with  the  natives  the  privilege  of  adopting 


436  Appendix  III. 


whatever  mode  of  worship  might  be  congenial  to  their  views.  The 
teachers  sent  out  by  the  London  Board  arrived  at  Tahiti  in  1797,  but  it  was 
not  until  1819  that  success  attended  their  efforts,  and  the  Church  was 
firmly  established.  This  has  continued  up  to  the  period  of  the  conquest 
of  Tahiti  by  the  French,  and  its  attendant  results  were  the  abolition  of 
idolatry,  and  numerous  stills  for  the  manufacture  of  intoxicating  drinks, 
the  social  and  moral  improvement  of  the  race,  and  the  general  diffusion 
of  knowledge  by  the  press. 

The  occupation  of  Tahiti  by  the  French  was  looked  upon  by  the  Eng- 
lish nation  as  a  moral,  if  not  political  encroachment,  for  these  islands 
were  considered,  and  undoubtedly  were,  a  monument  of  its  philanthropy ; 
it  was  probably  from  the  conviction  of  similar  sentiments  that  Com- 
modore B.  Toup  Nicholas,  of  H.  B.  M.  ship  "Vindictive,"  issued  his  bold 
circular  to  the  British  residents  of  Tahiti  and  Moorea,  on  the  20th  of 
June,  1843.  On  the  20th  of  March,  during  the  same  year,  when  the 
Marquis  of  Lansdowne,  in  the  House  of  Lords,  inquired  of  the  Earl  of 
Aberdeen,  then  Premier,  whether  the  government  had  received  any  in- 
formation respecting  the  French  occupation  of  Tahiti ;  also  suggesting 
the  necessity  of  an  assurance  from  that  government  that  "  their  authority 
should  be  exercised  in  a  manner  consistent  with  the  rights  of  British 
subjects,  and  especially  the  missionaries,"  he  was  informed  by  the  Earl 
that  he  had  "  no  precise  information  on  the  subject ;  but  he  was  not  of 
opinion  that  the  commercial  or  political  interests  would  be  at  all  inter- 
fered with,  but,  on  the  contrary,  he  thought  there  was  reason  to  look  to 
it  with  satisfaction,  and  to  anticipate  advantageous  results  from  it.  He 
had  caused  representations  to  be  made  at  Paris,  and  they  were  met  by 
the  most  unqualified  assurance  that  every  degree  of  protection  and  en- 
couragement would  be  afforded  to  the  British  ministers  settled  in  those 
parts.  In  fact,  there  was  an  article  in  the  convention  between  the 
French  commander  and  the  native  authorities,  by  which  it  was  stipulated 
that  protection  should  be  extended  to  all  places  of  religious  worship,  and 
to  the  missionaries  established  in  those  islands." 

The  sentiments  of  Du  Petit  Thouars  on  the  subject  of  religious  belief, 
if  sincere,  do  him  more  credit  than  any  glory  he  may  have  acquired  by 
his  conquests  ;  for,  among  the  provisional  articles  concluded  upon  be- 
tween Queen  Pomare  and  himself,  he  concedes  on  the  part  of  France, 
"  That  the  churches  at  present  established  shall  continue  to  exist,  and  the 
English  missionaries  shall  continue  in  the  prosecution  of  their  labors 
without  molestation.  The  same  shall  apply  to  every  other  form  of  wor- 
ship; no  one  shall  be  molested  or  constrained  in  his  belief."  In  a  letter 
to  the  missionaries  upon  the  same  subject,  he  again  remarks,  "That  no 
person  shall  be  constrained  in  his  religious  opinions  or  practices.  Liberty 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  437 

of  conscience  is  a  good  so  precious  that  we  ought  not  to  desire  it  for  our- 
selves only,  but  for  all."  The  policy  of  M.  Guizot  on  these  points  was 
conciliatory,  as  was  manifest  from  his  dispatch  to  the  British  ambassador 
then  residing  in  Paris  ;  and  comparative  tranquillity  was  enjoyed  by  the 
mission  until  the  days  of  liberte,  egalite,  fraternite.  From  that  time  it 
dates  the  encroachments  upon  its  privileges,  and  the  bonds  of  intoler- 
ance have  been  drawn  closer  and  closer,  until  at  the  present  day  every 
member  of  the  board  is  virtually  prohibited  from  exercising  the  functions 
of  his  sacred  calling. 

Under  Gov.  Lavaud,  the  native  chapels  were  converted  into  national 
property,  thus  uniting  Church  and  State,  and  the  lands  on  which  they  stand 
have  been  declared  confiscate,  and  some  of  the  private  dwellings  of  the 
missionaries  have  been  either  sequestered  or  become  a  government  appro- 
priation, to  the  sacrifice  of  the  sums  that,  for  enhancing  their  comfort  and 
convenience,  have  from  time  to  time  been  expended  upon  them.  The  next 
stone  knocked  from  the  foundation  of  religious  liberty  was  the  act  passed 
by  the  Legislative  Assembly  in  March,  1851,  prohibiting  a  missionary  from 
preaching  in  any  other  district  than  his  own,  unless  he  shall  have  re- 
ceived a  written  invitation.  The  following  law,  instituted  at  that  time, 
pertaining  to  the  election  of  ministers,  will  exhibit  an  unqualified  veto 
power  vested  in  the  Governor,  which  was  displayed  in  the  case  of  Mr.  A.  W. 
Lind,  who  was  sent  out  by  the  directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society ; 
though  according  to  law  this  gentleman  was  elected  pastor  for  the  dis- 
trict of  Atimaouo,  without  a  dissenting  voice,  the  election  was  nullified 
by  his  Excellency,  who  alleged  that  the  "  English  missionaries  were  ene- 
mies to  the  government,  and  that  he  could  not  allow  Mr.  Lind  to  settle 
there  "  The  law  is  as  follows  : — 

"  These  are  the  officers  to  be  chosen  by  the  chiefs  (hui  raatira}  in  the  Protec- 
torate Government :  The  district  governors,  the  district  minister  of  religion,  and 
the  members  of  Parliament. 

"  The  whole  of  the  chiefs  (hui  raatira)  in  a  district  shall  have  a  right  to  vote  in 
these  elections. 

"  Any  one  may  be  elected  to  the  office  of  district  minister  who  may  be  agreea- 
ble to  the  electors,  and  approved  of  by  the  majority.  If  a  foreigner  be  chosen,  the 
election  must  be  submitted  to  the  Governor,  the  Commissioner  of  the  Republic,  for  his 
approval,  because  the  foreign  department  is  with  him." 

Nothing  can  be  more  absurd  than  a  charge  implicating  the  mission 
either  directly  or  indirectly  with  the  established  order  of  things.  Though 
suffering  from  the  effects  of  the  political  change,  and  with  their  ordinary 
labors  greatly  augmented  by  having  to  combat  a  new  faith,  and  the 
moral  discord  naturally  resulting  from  a  protracted  warfare,  they  have 
patiently  performed  the  duties  of  their  calling,  simply  relying  upon  the  in- 


438  Appendix  III. 


dulgence  of  their  new  rulers.  The  act  of  depriving  a  minister  of  the 
privilege  of  being  elected  by  his  own  church,  and  placing,  instead,  his 
election  at  the  caprice  of  an  entire  district,  whether  dissenters  from  his 
creed  or  not,  is  virtually  depriving  him  of  his  office,  unless  he  consents 
to  become  an  annunciator  of  the  government. 

The  proclamation  of  Governor  Bonard  to  district  governors  on  the  first 
of  May,  1852,  with  special  reference  to  the  subject  of  ministerial  election, 
will  exhibit  the  style  of  an  official  ukase. 

"PROCLAMATION 

"TO     ALL     THE     DISTRICT     GOVERNORS. 

"  Friends : — 

"  There  is  to  be  only  one  minister  in  each  district ;  that  minister  is  to  be  chosen 
by  the  chiefs  of  the  district.  If  the  minister  chosen  be  a  foreigner,  his  election 
shall  be  submitted  to  the  Commissioner  of  the  Republic  for  his  approval,  as  the 
decision  with  regard  to  foreigners  rests  with  him  alone. 

"  That  is  what  the  law  declares,  and  it  is  proper  that  this  law  be  strictly  en- 
forced ;  and  it  is  your  business  to  see  well  to  it,  that  the  law  be  neither  disre- 
garded nor  evaded  by  means  of  little  hidden  stratagems. 

"  Therefore,  as  you  are  the  representatives  of  the  government  in  your  respec- 
tive districts,  it  is  for  you  to  prevent  any  foreigners  (who  call  themselves  mis- 
sionaries, but  who  have  not  been  chosen  by  the  electors  in  the  districts,  and 
whose  election  has  not  been  approved  of  by  the  French  government,)  from  preach- 
ing in  any  of  the  chapels,  under  pretence  that  they  have  been  requested — that 
request  being  only  from  a  few  insignificant  people  of  the  district. 

"  Those  who  may  go  and  preach  in  any  of  the  district  chapels,  when  requested 
to  do  so  in  writing,  are  those  only  who  have  been  chosen  by  a  district  according 
to  law,  and  whose  election  has  been  agreed  to  by  the  Protectorate  Government, 
if  they  be  foreigners,  and  who  hold  the  office  of  minister  in  some  district  within 
the  limits  of  the  Protectorate  Government.  That  privilege  is  granted  to  them, 
since  they  are  required  to  reside  in  the  district  where  they  were  chosen ;  but  it 
is  by  no  means  right  or  agreeable  to  the  spirit  of  the  law,  that  either  foreigners 
who  casually  visit  Tahiti,  or  those  who  have  their  fixed  residence  here,  describing 
themselves  as  missionaries,  should,  placing  themselves  beyond  the  law,  and  not 
submitting  to  the  regular  election  and  recognition  of  the  Protectorate  Government, 
enter  the  district  chapels  and  set  themselves  up  as  if  they  were  properly  elected 
ministers. 

"  If  such  an  evil  as  this  should  be  permitted  to  pass,  and  as  it  has  been  at- 
tempted at  Mahaena  and  Papeuriri,  the  law  would  thus  be  set  aside,  which  de- 
clares that  there  is  to  be  but  one  missionary  in  each  district,  and  that  it  is  neces- 
sary, in  order  to  a  foreigner  holding  the  office,  that  he  be  approved  of  by  the 
French  government.  It  would  also  be  a  denial  of  the  power  of  the  chiefs  and 
electors,  for  if  a  person  be  sent  for  as  minister  from  another  district,  they  ought 
to  have  a  voice  in  that  election,  for  this  is  what  the  law  requires. 

"  The  request  in  writing  required  by  law,  and  according  to  which  it  is  proper 
for  a  minister  to  go  and  preach  in  another  chapel,  must  be  from  natives  only,  and 
the  ministers  who  have  been  properly  chosen  according  to  law. 

"  If  this  be  attended  to,  then  the  law  will  be  properly  enforced,  which  declares 
that  there  shall  be  only  one  missionary  in  each  district ;  the  power  also  of  the 
chiefs  will  be  fully  established,  and  it  will  not  be  possible,  for  foreigners  to  place 
themselves  beyond  the  control  of  the  Protectorate  Government  which  has  been 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  439 

V 

set  over  them  ;  and  thus,  also,  liberty  of  conscience  will  be  secured,  and 
a  complete  separation  of  all  the  ministers,  so  that  one  may  not  be  under 
another. 

"  In  conclusion,  I  also  make  known  to  you  my  wish.  That  it  be  clearly  made 
known  to  all  the  ministers  who  have  been  properly  chosen  by  the  several  districts, 
that  they  will  be  carefully  protected  in  their  rights  by  the  Protectorate  Govern, 
ment,  and  that  without  any  difference  whatever  being  made  between  foreigners 
and  natives  ;  and  it  will  be  by  no  means  right  for  any  foreign  missionary  to 
place  himself  above  the  others,  either  to  command  them  or  to  find  fault  with 
them. 

"  It  is  right,  notwithstanding  this,  that  young  ministers  should  treat  with  some 
respect  the  aged  and  the  inexperienced  amongst  them,  and  those  who  have  in- 
structed them  ;  but  that  respect  is  one  thing,  and  the  improper  subordination 
which  is  required  by  a  certain  party  from  the  native  ministers,  is  another,  and  a 
very  different  thing.  Make  it  clearly  known  to  them  that  they  are  perfectly  free, 
but  it  is  necessary  that  they  continue  to  respect  the  laws. 

"  Do  you  also  make  known  to  them  that  they  have  perfect  liberty  in  regard  to 
matters  of  religion  in  their  own  districts,  but  let  them  also  well  respect  the 
liberty  of  the  ministers  in  the  neighboring  districts,  and  by  no  means  let  them  in- 
terfere in  the  affairs  of  other  districts  than  their  own,  as  that  is  a  cause  of  trouble, 
and  it  is  necessary  that  it  be  completely  put  a  stop  to. 

"  Make  known  this  letter  to  the  proper  minister  of  your  district,  and  also  the 
chiefs,  and  carefully  attend  to  all  the  matters  made  known  to  you  by  this  proc- 
lamation. 

"  PAPEETE,  1st  May,  1852. 

"  The  Governor,  the  Commissioner  of  the  Republic. 
("  Signed,) 

"  BONARD." 

Such  a  Jesuitical  production  is  worthy  of  its  author,  and  such  a  com- 
plexity of  absurd  restrictions  can  only  be  supposed  to  emanate  from  one 
who  lacks  the  moral  courage  to  step  boldly  forth  and  at  once  shut  down 
the  safety-valve  of  religious  freedom.  Its  paternal  tenor  is  absolutely 
farcical,  and  may  be  instanced  as  an  illustration  of  French  protection. 
His  Excellency's  alleged  violation  of  the  law  at  Mahaena  and  Papeuriri  is 
unfounded.  In  the  first  instance,  his  personal  investigation  could  detect 
nothing  approximating  to  illegality  of  procedure  on  the  part  of  the  resi- 
dent minister  ;  and  in  the  other,  the  case  was  prejudged,  and  the  minister 
condemned  to  six  months'  confinement  within  the  limits  of  his  district, 
without  being  allowed  a  hearing.  An  invitation  for  this  minister  to 
preach  in  the  chapel  of  Papeuriri  had  been  tendered  him,  formally 
signed  by  the  residents  of  that  district,  according  to  law ;  this  docu- 
ment was  placed  in  the  hands  of  his  Excellency  by  H.  B.  M.  consul, 
Wm.  Miller,  Esq.,  residing  at  Papeete,  and  by  Governor  Bonard's  inability 
to  offer  anything  in  justification  of  his  arbitrary  conduct,  and  in  lacking 
the  manliness  to  redress  a  wrong,  he  has  still  further  augmented 
the  unenviable  reputation  acquired  by  his  official  proceedings  at  this 
island. 

With  these  obstacles  to  encounter,  the  efforts  of  the  resident  mis> 


440  Appendix  III. 


sionaries,  until  lately,  have  not  been  relaxed  ;  more  than  450,000  pages 
were  printed  by  them  during  the  last  two  years  alone,  and  other 
scriptural  publications  received  from  England  have  been  gratuitously 
supplied  to  the  natives  ;  in  short,  they  are  the  only  persons  to  whom  the 
natives  are  indebted  for  school-books.  But  lately  the  press  has  been 
silenced,  and  the  field,  through  necessity,  almost  deserted.  Only  three 
foreign  ministers  are  allowed  to  preside  in  native  churches  ;  these  have 
seceded  from  the  London  Missionary  Society,  and  for  reasons  of  their 
own  have  voluntarily  revered  themselves  ^ubservient  to  the  French 
Government.  With  thefce  exceptions,  the  entire  native  population  is 
supplied  by  rative  teachers,  whose  acquirements  are  inadequate  to  ad- 
minister to  its  wants,  temporal  or  spiritual.  The  Rev.  Wm.  Howe,  resi- 
dent chaplain  at  Papeete,  has  passed  more  than  eighteen  years  of  his  life 
upon  this  island  ;  and  through  all  the  vicissitudes  of  the  mission  during 
that  period  has  maintained  an  unshaken  confidence  in  his  reliance  upon 
Divine  assistance,  and  has  manifested  a  praiseworthy  zeal  in  performing 
the  duties  of  his  sacred  calling. 

That  a  moral  blight  has  been  making  steady  progress  throughout  the 
land,  is  sufficiently  apparent  from  the  evidences  daily  transpiring.  Dis- 
sipation walks  unblushingly  in  the  face  of  day ;  and  when  more  than 
fifty  persons,  from  the  age  of  fourteen  and  upwards,  are  seen  at  one 
time  perambulating  the  streets  in  a  state  of  intoxication,  it  seriously  be- 
hooves a  "  great  nation"  exercising  (or  professing  to  do  so)  the  preroga- 
tives of  protection,  to  give  the  subject  at  least  a  superficial  attention,  un- 
less speedy  decimation  be  the  object  sought.  It  has  lately  been  discovered 
that  those  natives  who,  through  all  the  turmoil  of  foreign  warfare  and 
its  attendant  evils,  had  been  looked  upon  as  the  bulwark  or  supporters 
of  the  Church,  have  occasionally  yielded  to  the  allurements  of  dissipation 
to  which  they  are  daily  exposed ;  and  it  is  feared  that  Queen  Pomare 
herself,  in  whose  behalf  so  much  sympathy  has  been  manifested  by  the 
Christian  world,  is  becoming  remiss  in  the  performance  of  her  spiritual 
duties. 

Thus  has  "  this  splendid  embassy  of  Christian  mer,cy  to  the  South 
Seas"  been  shattered — dissevered  ;  and  the  monument,  of  which  it  was 
the  architect,  built  up  by  the  free  charities  of  true  English  benevolence, 
is  left  tottering  upon  its  foundation,  undermined  by  the  secret  approaches 
of  the  Seven  Hills.  Though  justly  aggrieved  by  the  premature  rashness  of 
Protestant  missionaries  towards  the  propagators  of  her  own  established 
faith,  it  would  redound  far  more  to  the  honor  of  so  great  a  nation  as 
France  to  adopt  a  more  liberal,  rational  policy  towards  those  who  ac- 
knowledge her  supremacy,  irrespective  of  sectarian  feeling  ;  thereby 
promoting  the  best  interests  of  her  colony,  and  raising  its  elements  from 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  441 

moral  degradation  to  the  enjoyment  of  the  greatest  of  earthly  blessings 
— civil  and  religious  freedom. 

Pleasanter  evidences  resulting  from  this  conquest  are  local  changes 
everywhere  observable.  Roads  have  been  improved,  and,  in  some 
instances,  streams  are  spanned  by  beautiful  and  substantial  bridges. 
The  thoroughfare  designated  the  Broom  Road,  extending  around  the 
island,  if  not  the  best,  is  certainly  the  pleasantest  to  be  found  on  any 
shore  of  the  Pacific.  Spacious  public  buildings  erected  in  the  town  of 
Papeete,  including  the  government  house,  arsenal,  storehouses,  barracks, 
steam  mill,  &c.,  have  an  imposing  effect ;  and,  as  external  evidences 
of  prosperity,  enhance  the  natural  beauty  of  the  scenery  amid  which 
they  are  situate.  From  numerous  hydrants,  pure  streams  of  mount- 
ain water  are  perpetually  gushing  beneath  the  shade  of  orange  and 
bread-fruit  trees,  also  from  the  substantial  and  commodious  stone 
jetties  this  element  is  forever  mingling  with  the  quiet  waters  of  the 
lagoon.  The  construction  of  a  marine  cradle  or  railway,  for  the 
purpose  of  facilitating  the  repairs  of  vessels,  although  unequal  to  its 
object,  is  a  commendable  undertaking.  The  absence  of  port  charges, 
and  the  facility  with  which  deserters  may  be  recovered,  are  strong  rec- 
ommendations for  vessels  to  visit  this  port ;  in  point  of  extent  and 
natural  conveniences,  the  harbor  of  Honolulu  will  hardly  bear  a  compar- 
ison with  this.  Though  every  feature  bespeaks  the  military  instead  of 
the  commercial  colony,  including  the  incessant  patrolling  of  sentries 
before  the  government  works,  and  the  white,  isolated  watch-towers, 
which,  like  tombstones  of  liberty,  are  placed  upon  commanding  emi- 
nences and  form  a  continuous  chain  around  the  island,  Tahiti  possesses 
many  attractions  for  the  tourist,  or  others  whose  pursuits  extend  to  the 
Southern  Sea.  From  M.  Chappe,  the  present  Captain-Director  of  Euro- 
pean Affairs,  visitors  may  obtain  every  indulgence  compatible  with 
the  established  laws  of  the  Protectorate  for  rendering  their  sojourn 
agreeable.  It  is  presumed  that  no  visitor  has  had  reason  to  complain 
of  \vant  of  civility,  or  lack  of  the  ordinary  courtesies  of  social  in- 
tercourse from  foreign  residents.  More  obliging  and  honorable  merchants 
than  many  of  those  resident  at  Papeete,  French,  English  and  American, 
are  not  to  be  met  with  on  the  shores  of  this  ocean.  Americans,  whose 
interests  lie  in  this  quarter,  have  reason  to  congratulate  themselves  that 
they  possess  an  efficient  representative  in  Wm.  H.  Kelly,  Esq.,  whose 
official  duties  are  no  impediment  in  the  way  of  hospitable  observances 
or  polite  attention,  trifling  in  themselves,  but  whose  appreciation  is  en- 
hanced by  their  bestowal  in  a  foreign  land. 

The  Protectorate  having  been  securely  established,  it  is  to  be  supposed 
that  the  attention  of  the  French  government  would  have  been  directed 


442  Appendix  III. 


towards  developing  the  agricultural  resources  of  their  newly  acquired 
territory.  Unfortunately,  this  has  not  been  the  case,  and  the  thousands 
of  acres  of  rich  arable  land  that  by  judicious  management  might  yield 
an  ample  revenue,  are  suffered  to  remain  uncultivated — neglected.  The 
remarks  of  Commodore  Wilkes  on  the  productions  of  this  group  during 
the  visit  of  the  U.  S.  Exploring  Squadron  to  Tahiti  in  1839,  from  infor- 
mation derived  from  residents,  though  brief,  are  worth  transcribing,  and 
are  as  follows  : — 

"  The  commercial  resources  of  these  islands  are  very  limited.  Most  of  the 
vessels  that  visit  Tahiti  belong  to  our  whaling  fleet ;  these  average  less  than  a 
hundred  annually.  From  them  the  natives  are  enabled  to  dispose  of  some  of  the 
supplies  they  raise,  and  in  return  obtain  such  articles  as  will  promote  their  com- 
fort and  add  to  their  pleasure.  The  whale  ships  have  for  the  most  part  articles 
of  trade  which  they  barter  with  the  natives,  so  that  little  money  is  required  to 
carry  on  their  business.  The  natives,  particularly  the  chiefs,  are  well  acquainted 
with  the  value  of  money.  '  An  estimate  has  been  made  that  each  of  these  vessels 
introduces  goods  into  the  island  to  the  amount  of  $500  each,  making  a  total  of 
$50,000 ;  but  I  very  much  question  whether  it  can  reach  this  extent. 

******** 

"  The  pearl-shell  fishery  of  the  Paumotu  group  centres  here.  I  was  told  that 
it  was  principally  in  the  hands  of  the  French  consul.  For  a  few  years  before  our 
arrival,  from  1832  to  '38,  it  had  been  very  productive.  The  amount  obtained  was 
about  900  tons,  which  was  estimated  to  be  valued  at  $45,000  to  $50,000 ;  the 
greater  part  of  this  was  sent  to  France. 

******** 

"The  three  chief  articles  of  production  are  sugar,  cocoanut  oil,  and  arrow-root. 
The  following  statement  was  furnished  me  of  the  quantities  produced  : — 

SUGAR. 

Tons.  Estimated  Value. 

Tahiti 105  $8,000 

Eimeo 32  2,000 

Raiatea 15  1,300 

Total 152     $11,300 

COCOANUT    OIL. 

Tons.  Estimated  Value. 

Tahiti 55     $3,500 

Eimeo 20     1,500 

Huahine 60     4,500 

Borabora  and  )  5Q 

Raiatea )    ' 

Total..  185  .'$13,300 


Total  value  of  produce $24,600 

"  Of  arrow-root  there  are  about  50  tons  produced,  valued  at  nearly  $4,000, 
which,  included  with  the  above,  will  make  the  sum  of  nearly  $28,000  as  the 
value  derived  from  the  agricultural  products  of  these  islands.  If  they  were  under 
proper  cultivation,  this  amount  would  be  greatly  increased  ;  and  from  the  estimate 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  443 

of  a  competent  person,  it  was  believed  that  the  productions  might  yield,  if  prop- 
erly attended  to,  a  revenue  of  $300,0(0,  as  coffee,  cotton,  and  indigo,  might  be 
added  to  the  above  articles.  But  this  is  an  estimate  one  half  too  great,  and 
would  require  an  amount  of  labor  that  the  present  population  are  inadequate  to 
perform,  and  which  their  climate,  wants,  and  desires,  will  never  probably  excite 
them  to,  or  render  necessary." 

At  the  present  day,  instead  of  the  cultivation  of  cane,  the  sugar  re- 
quired for  domestic  consumption  is  imported,  and  the  trade  in  arrow- 
root and  cocoanut  oil  is  hardly  worth  noticing.  These  elements  of 
prosperity  still  exist,  but  the  moral  lethargy,  which,  like  an  incubus,  has 
brooded  over  the  natives  since  their  deprivation  of  liberty,  seems  to  have 
paralyzed  every  effort  towards  re-developing  this  branch  of  commercial 
enterprise.  Since  the  discovery  of  gold  in  California,  and  the  rapid  in- 
crease of  population  in  that  State,  the  numerous  orange  groves  of  this 
group  furnish  a  new  article  of  commerce,  and  the  surplus  fruit  exported 
from  the  entire  group  amounts  to  about  1,000,000  oranges  annually,  at  a 
cost  of  85,000  or  $6,000 ;  and  allowing  one-third  loss,  and  an  average 
price  of  $50. 00  per  thousand,  as  they  sell  in  San  Francisco  at  $30.00  to 
$100.00  per  thousand  by  the  cargo,  they  yield  a  gross  profit  to  the  ship- 
pers of  $300,000  to  $400,000.  The  pearl  fishery  still  continues  profitable 
to  those  engaged  in  it,  owing  to  the  increased  commerce  that  has  sprung 
up  in  this  ocean  since  the  new  phases  exhibited  by  California  and  Aus- 
tralia. These  islands  receive  their  share  of  transient  vessels,  and  their 
floating  capital  is  greater  than  would  at  first  be  supposed. 

The  circumference  of  Tahiti  is  84  miles  ;  that  of  Moorea,  25  miles — 
both,  together  equivalent  to  the  Isle  of  France  or  Mauritius  in  the  Indian 
Ocean,  formerly  a  French  colony,  but  which  since  1810  has  been  in  the 
possession  of  the  English.  If  this  island  can  support  a  population  of 
90,000  white  and  black,  and  export  68,000,000  Ibs.  of  sugar  in  one  year, 
what  might  not  Tahiti  do  with  a  climate  and  soil  equally  favorable,  and 
situate  midway  between  the  two  great  marts  of  the  Western  Ocean? 
While  adding  to  her  conquests  in  the  Pacific,  France  should  at  least 
possess  the  ambition  to  enter  the  lists  with  the  only  colony  that  Spain 
possesses  in  the  East  Indies  yielding  a  revenue.  From  the  Asiatic  shores, 
for  comparatively  trifling  expense,  may  be  procured  the  requisite  ma- 
terial for  promoting  the  interests  of  her  newly-acquired  territory,  and 
Manilla,  with  her  exports  of  sugar  and  tobacco,  might  find  a  rival  in  the 
Queen  of  the  Pacific. 

But  recently,  during  the  last  year,  the  French  have  taken  possession 
of  the  island  New  Caledonia,  of  the  division  Melanesia,  and  distant  from 
the  coast  of  Australia  but  700  miles.  This  island  is  250  miles  in  length, 
having  an  average  breadth  of  near  60  miles,  and  has  a  range  of  high 


444  Appendix  III. 


mountains  extending  throughout  its  whole  length.  On  the  western  side 
is  an  extensive  barrier  reef,  forming  a  broad  sea  or  lagoon  nearly  the  en- 
tire length  of  the  island.  A  great  portion  of  the  country  is  rocky  and 
sandy,  but  in  other  places  the  soil  is  fertile,  being  covered  with  luxuriant 
vegetation.  Among  the  productions  are  noticed  many  of  the  fruits  and 
esculents  common  to  Polynesia.  But  little  is  known  respecting  its  in- 
habitants, farther  than  that  the  island  is  comparatively  thinly  inhabited 
by  natives,  who,  like  those  of  the  islands  adjoining,  are  Papuans,  or 
Oriental  negroes,  in  every  respect  inferior  to  the  Polynesians,  warlike 
and  barbarous.  The  alleged  object  for  the  occupation  of  this  island  by 
the  French,  is  the  establishment  of  a  penal  colony,  and  such  an  announce- 
ment has  occasioned  no  little  consternation  among  the  Australians,  on 
account  of  the  proximity  of  that  island  to  their  shores,  and  from  the 
possibility  of  their  being  contaminated  by  the  escaped  felons  of  France. 

The  establishment  of  a  safe  and  convenient  depot  in  this  quarter  of  the 
Pacific  for  commercial  purposes,  if  such  be  the  intention  of  France,  can- 
not in  any  way  prove  detrimental  to  the  interests  of  the  numerous  trading 
vessels  whose  traffic  is  among  the  savage  tribes  of  Melanesia,  where,  in 
case  of  emergency,  assistance  may  be  obtained.  There  is  now  but  one 
link  wanting  to  complete  the  chain  of  conquest  across  the  Pacific,  and 
this  is  the  Island  of  Tongatabu.  It  cannot  be  denied  that  the  emissaries 
of  the  Romish  Church  are  in  some  degree  instrumental  in  promoting  these 
acquisitions.  No  later  than  last  summer,  a  French  frigate  looked  into 
the  harbor  of  this  island  to  investigate  an  alleged  affront  received  by 
some  Romish  priests  from  the  natives,  they  having,  uninvited,  established 
themselves  among  a  professedly  Protestant  people.  Upon  investigation, 
the  affair  proved  to  be  simply  the  decided  stand  made  by  the  natives 
against  any  innovation  upon  their  moral  convictions,  and,  in  one  or  two 
instances,  incivility  towards  those  who  had  zealously  attempted  to  en- 
force it.  On  this  occasion,  the  ordinary  threats  of  vengeance  were  not 
resorted  to,  and  the  commander  of  the  ship  gave  the  disciples  of  the 
Church  to  understand  that  it  was  an  affair  in  which  he  could  not  in- 
terfere. It  will  be  recollected  that  an  occurrence  in  some  degree 
similar,  furnished  sufficient  pretext  for  the  enslavement  of  a  race 
which,  like  the  Tongatabuans,  speak  a  dialect  different .  from  the  Ta- 
hitians.  However,  it  is  but  last  September  that  the  French  steamer 
"  Phoque"  sailed  for  Tongatabu  to  adjust  differences  that  have 
again  arisen  at  this  island.  Should  an  attack  be  made  upon  the 
liberties  of  the  people,  they  will  never  be  surrendered  without  a  strug- 
gle. They  have  good  forts,  capable  of  sustaining  a  siege,  and  in 
more  than  one  conflict,  have  proved  themselves  as  bold  warriors  as 
are  to  be  found  in  the  South  Pacific.  It  is  evident  that  they  could  not 


The  French  in  the  Pacific.  445 

sustain  a  protracted  struggle  with  so  great  a  power  as  France,  and  it  will 
occasion  no  surprise  to  those  who  have  watched  her  proceedings  in  this 
ocean  to  learn  that  the  tri-color  waves  over  a  new  conquest.  It  would 
appear  that  Louis  Napoleon  in  the  Pacific  is  adopting  the  system  of  the 
Grand  Monarque,  who,  in  the  seventeenth  century,  attempted  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  chain  of  military  posts  from  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi.  However  feasible  the  project  may  ap- 
pear, save  the  temporary  derangement  to  commerce,  there  would  be  but 
little  to  apprehend  in  the  event  of  a  rupture  between  France  and  any  of 
the  great  maritime  powers  of  the  Old  or  New  World,  remote  as  she  is 
from  these  island  colonies,  and  hemmed  in  as  they  are  by  American, 
English,  and  Russian  possessions,  comprising  thousands  of  miles  of 
sea-board,  with  excellent  harbors,  and  each  country  possessing  in 
itself  the  elements  or  means  of  equipping  a  naval  armament.  There 
yet  remains  one  important  post,  situate  nearly  midway  between 
her  conquests,  the  occupation  of  which  would  checkmate  her  power 
among  the  isles,  and  this  is  the  Navigator  Islands.  To  their  advantages 
as  a  commercial  depot,  allusion  has  already  been  made  ;  and  if  they 
cannot,  like  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  be  permitted  to  remain  an  independent 
state,  it  would  not  be  regretted  if  England,  under  whose  fostering  care 
the  inhabitants  have  partially  emerged  from  barbarism,  deemed  it  not 
unworthy  of  her  to  take  them  under  her  protection.  We  have  already  a 
precedent  on  which  to  base  a  conjecture  as  to  future  results  :  the  rapid 
growth  of  the  only  colony  she  possesses  in  Polynesia,  New  Zealand — 
the  towns  and  villages  that  have  sprung  up — the  encouragement  given 
to  agriculture  and  commerce — confirm  the  assertion  that,  in  extending 
her  dominions,  England  seeks  not  the  enslavement  of  those  she  conquers. 
A  broad  distinction  between  French  and  English  colonies  at  once  im- 
presses an  observer :  with  the  latter,  less  of  military,  but  more  of  com- 
mercial, evidences  are  apparent ;  or  should  political  necessity  require  the 
presence  of  an  army,  it  is  usually  confined  to  its  own  sphere,  without  pre- 
scribing the  duties  and  privileges  of  civilians,  or  fettering  commerce  with 
petty  restrictions.  An  American  who  treads  upon  British  soil,  divested 
of  arrogant  preconceptions  of  national  superiority,  may  feel,  though  in  a 
foreign  clime,  that  he  breathes  an  atmosphere  of  political  freedom,  and  is 
amenable  only  to  the  laws  of  a  civil  tribunal,  while  enjoying  the  refine- 
ments and  associations  of  his  native  land.  Conservative  philanthropists 
view  with  pious  regret  the  almost  incredible  conquests  of  England  in  the 
Indian  empire,  sympathizing  with  such  invaders  as  Tippoo-Saib  or  Hyder 
Ali,  forgetting  that  in  many  respects  the  victory  of  Plassey  was  the 
corner-stone  of  native  freedom  from  Moslem  bondage.  But  this  field  is 
loo  broad  to  admit  of  present  argument.  While  charging  upon  that  nation 


446  Appendix  III. 


the  human  misery  unavoidably  apparent,  we  must  not  overlook  the 
evidences  of  political  shame  or  error  that  exist  in  our  own  land.  We 
should  not  forget  that  the  result  of  these  conquests  are  no  longer  the 
selfish  monopolies  of  the  preceding  century,  "but  reflect  that  our  present 
commercial  prosperity  is  greatly  indebted  to  the  gratuitous  gift  of  English 
blood  and  treasure.  While  regarding  with  indifference  the  progress  of 
empire — the  annihilation  of  primitive  independence — the  absorption  of 
kingdoms — we  may  well  smile  at  the  happy  unity  of  sentiment  pervading 
the  powers  of  the  Old  World,  who  nervously  protest  against  the  extension 
of  American  territory,  though  peacefully  consummated  by  mutual  con- 
cession. However,  let  us  seek  not  to  draw  harrowing  distinctions  be- 
tween our  illustrious  progenitor  and  ourselves.  If  we  descend  for  a  mo- 
ment from  the  pinnacle  of  our  egotism  and  examine  facts  as  they  truly  exist, 
having  reference  to  philanthropy  and  the  peculiar  results  of  Anglo-Saxon 
influence,  we  will  say — God  speed  the  cross  of  St.  George  !  whether  it 
waves  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  or  flutters  amid  the  the  jungles  of 
Sarawack. 

It  is  hoped  the  preceding  remarks  will  not  be  regarded  as  animad- 
versions of  national  prejudice  ;  France  at  home  and  France  abroad,  or  a 
people  individually  and  politically,  are  very  different  subjects.  For  in- 
tellectual refinement,  encouragement  of  literatnre,  the  arts  and  sciences, 
hers  is  a  proud  position  among  nations.  While  proffering  acknowledg- 
ments for  disinterested  courtesy,  the  writer  would  sincerely  regret  having 
trespassed  upon  this  subject,  if  the  truthful  results  of  personal  observa- 
tion receive  other  than  their  intended  application,  exclusively  to  political 
economy. 


APPENDIX  IV. 


AMERICAN  WHALING  INTERESTS  IN  THE  PACIFIC.* 

Prominent  Features  of  Whaling— Cruising-Grounds  of  Sperm  Whalers  ;  of  Right  Whalers- 
Traffic  and  Exchange — Estimated  Capital  employed — Our  present  Fleet  compared  with 
that  of  1844  ;  with  that  of  Europe— Imports  of  1844;  of  1853— Increased  Value  of  Products 
— Relation  to  our  Merchant  Marine — Ports  frequented — Petty  Exactions — Micronesian 
Ports — Honolulu — Seamen,  their  Condition  and  Wants  ;  Relations  to  Consuls — Foreigners 
as  Commercial  Agents  ;  Ludicrous  Incident — Our  Consular  System — Conclusive  Glance  at 
the  Profession. 

THERE  is  perhaps  no  branch  of  the  marine  service  more  arduous  than 
that  of  whaling.  Independent  of  the  hardship  to  which  every  seaman  is 
exposed,  the  whaleman  is  compelled  to  launch  his  boat  upon  the  ocean  in 
storm  or  calm,  to  "  beard  the  lion  in  his  den."  Chilled  among  icebergs 
and  scorched  in  a  burning  zone,  he  becomes  inured  to  privations  at  the 
bare  recital  of  which  a  landsman  would  shudder ;  and  any  young  man 
who  has  passed  the  ordeal  of  a  three  or  four  years'  cruise,  if  he  be  will- 
ing and  of  ordinary  capacity,  will  have  acquired  a  fair  knowledge  of 
practical  seamanship,  and  will  have  seen  more  hard  service  than  if  he 
had  served  double  that  time  on  an  ordinary  merchantman. 

Erroneous  impressions  are  usually  entertained  respecting  whalers,  it 
being  the  custom  to  associate  with  them  everything  that  is  superlatively 
disagreeable.  Whaling  as  it  was  fifteen  or  twenty  years  ago,  affords 
but  a  poor  criterion  for  judging  the  profession  as  it  now  exists.  At  the 
present  day,  greater  reference  is  had  to  the  comfort  of  those  who  man 
the  vessels,  both  as  pertains  to  their  rations  and  convenience  of  abode. 
The  former  practice  of  employing  cast-off  liners  of  ancient  model  is  being 
gradually  superseded  by  vessels  better  adapted  for  this  object,  and  some 

*  For  statistical  information  pertaining  to  this  subject,  acknowledgments  are 
due  the  attentions  of  James  Taylor,  Esq.,  Deputy  Collector  for  the  port  of  New 
Bedford ;  also  to  Dennis  Wood,  Esq.,  of  the  same  city. 


448  Appendix  IV. 


of  them  are  model  clippers,  elegant  in  their  proportions,  and  bidding  fair 
to  rival  our  merchantmen  in  speed.  Another  feature  to  be  noticed  is  the 
frequent  custom  of  masters  being  accompanied  by  their  families,  which 
would  imply  a  greater  reference  to  the  comfort  and  condition  of  tho§e 
under  their  command.  From  this  it  is  not  to  be  inferred  that  families 
are  necessarily  confined  to  the  vessel  during  its  sinuous  cruisings  in  the 
Pacific,  for  the  various  ports  among  the  groups  offer  conveniences  for  a 
sojourn  of  any  duration  while  the  vessel  is  pursuing  the  objects  of  the 
voyage. 

This  profession  has  been  divided  into  two  branches — sperm  and  right 
whaling — the  latter  capturing  several  of  the  remaining  varieties  of  cetacea ; 
and  though  the  former  branch  is  confined  to  a  single  species,  the  right 
whaler  attacks  the  sperm  whale  wherever  it  can  be  found.  Formerly, 
when  this  profession  was  in  its  infancy,  the  Atlantic  was  the  ordinary 
cruising-ground  of  whalers,  and  the  Falkland  Islands  off  Patagonia  were 
its  farthest  southern  limit,  and  the  vessels  employed  being  of  inferior 
capacity,  the  duration  of  a  voyage  was  from  six  to  twelve  months.  But 
of  late  years,  since  the  fleet  launched  against  them  has  continued  so 
rapidly  to  augment,  the  whales  have  become  timid,  and  in  schools  resort 
to  new  feeding-grounds,  so  that  the  occupation  of  capturing  them,  here- 
tofore confined  to  the  Atlantic,  has  extended  to  the  entire  watery  area  of 
the  globe. 

The  cruising-grounds  of  the  sperm  whaler  are  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  St.  Paul's  and  Mauritius,  near  Madagascar  and  along 
the  eastern  coast  of  Africa ;  also  about  New  Zealand,  in  the  Australian 
seas,  and  among  the  islands  within  the  tropics  of  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
Right  whalers,  on  leaving  the  Atlantic  ports,  visit  either  the  Azores 
or  Cape  de  Verde  Islands  for  supplies,  and  it  is  generally  so  timed  that 
they  double  Cape  Horn  during  the  summer  months  of  those  latitudes,  and 
reach  the  Sandwich  Islands  after  a  passage  (cruising  by  the  way)  of  from 
three  to  five  months.  From  here,  after  a  brief  recruit,  they  start  away 
for  the  "northwest"  cruising-ground,  (so  called  from  its  being  originally 
confined  to  the  northwestern  coast  of  America,)  extending  through  Beh- 
ring's  Straits  to  the  Arctic  Ocean  and  the  seas  of  Kamtschatka,  Ochotsk 
and  Japan,  the  second  being  formed  by  the  peninsula  just  mentioned,  on 
the  east,  and  China  and  Siberia  on  the  west ;  while  the  latter  is  bounded 
by  the  Chinese  and  Japanese  empires.  Here  they  cruise  during  the 
months  of  June,  July,  and  August,  until  in  September  increasing  gales 
warn  them  to  depart,  when  they  usually  return  to  the  Hawaiian  ports  of 
Honolulu,  Lahaina,  and  Hilo.  Having  remained  at  these  stations  as  long 
as  their  several  necessities  may  require,  from  one  to  three  months,  they 
renew  their  cruise  during  the  "  between  seasons,"  so  called,  within  the 


American  Whaling  Interests  in  the  Pacific.  449 

tropics,  ranging  among  the  southern  and  central  archipelagoes  for  sperm 
whales,  frequently  holding  intercourse  with  the  natives  of  these  islands, 
and  gradually  working  their  way  towards  Guam  or  Hong  Kong,  where 
they  refit,  and  improve  the  season  in  the  Japan  Sea.  The  average  dura- 
tion of  a  sperm  whaler's  voyage,  or  from  the  time  it  leaves  home  until 
its  return,  is  forty-three  months,  while  that  of  a  right  whaler  is  thirty- 
two  months. 

For  trade  or  barter,  whalers  carry  with  them  muskets  and  ammuni- 
tion, cutlery,  tobacco  and  domestic  goods — American  productions  and 
manufactures — and  these  are  scattered  throughout  the  vast  oceans  they 
traverse.  For  necessary  repairs  and  the  payment  of  discharged  seamen, 
whose  term  of  service  has  expired,  cash  is  advanced  in  foreign  ports  at  a 
premium  of  from  5  to  25  per  cent.,  when  drafts  on  their  owners  are 
given  in  return.  These  bills  of  exchange  are  always  negotiable  abroad, 
and  are  never  dishonored  at  home,  which  would  be  disastrous  to  whaling 
interests  :  so  that  whatever  may  be  the  nature  of  the  expense  incurred  by 
their  factors  or  agents,  the  owners,  through  policy,  endorse  them,  and 
consequently  in  selecting  masters  for  their  vessels,  judicious  reference  is 
had  to  economy  as  well  as  qualification. 

The  cost  and  outfit  (including  advance  to  crew)  of  a  whaler  on  leaving 
port,  that  will  stow  from  3,000  to  4,000  bbls.  of  oil,  is  at  least  $40,000  ; 
to  this  is  to  be  added  insurance,  which  for  the  cruise  is  about  12  per 
cent.,  and  we  have  more  than  $25,000,000  embarked  in  this  branch  of 
commerce.  During  the  last  ten  years  the  increase  of  our  whaling  fleet 
has  been  but  slight :  in  1844  it  numbered  595  ships  and  barks,  41  brigs, 
11  schooners,  and  1  sloop  ;  while  on  the  1st  January,  1854,  we  find  it  to 
consist  of  602  ships  and  barks,  28  brigs  and  38  schooners,  having  an  ag- 
gregate tonnage  of  208,399  tons,  and  which  is  about  twelve  times  greater 
than  that  of  the  combined  whaling  fleets  of  Europe  that  cruise  in  the 
Pacific.  The  tonnage  of  the  English  fleet  is  about  7,000  tons,  that  of 
France  the  same,  while  the  fleet  of  Bremen  is  less  than  3,000  tons  ;  the 
number  of  colonial  whalers  that  formerly  sailed  from  Australian  ports 
has  gradually  fallen  off,  until  of  late  years  it  hardly  deserves  a  consider- 
ation. 

In  quantity,  there  is  comparatively  little  difference  to  .notice  between 
the  imports  of  the  whale  fishery  into  the  United  States  for  each  consecu- 
tive year  during  the  last  ten  years. 

In  1844  they  amounted  to  139,594  bbls.  sperm  oil,  262,047  bbls.  whale 
oil,  and  2,532,445  Ibs.  bone.  •  During  the  preceding  year,  1853,  the  im- 
portations were,  103,077  bbls.  sperm  oil,  260,114  bbls.  whale  oiJ,  and 
5,652,300  Ibs.  bone,  having  an  aggregate  value  of  $5,442,441. 

During  the  last  two  years  no  oil  has  been  exported,  though  for  several- 

29 


450  Appendix  IV. 


years  previous  it  was  shipped  abroad  to  a  considerable  extent ;  in  1846,  the 
quantity  amounted  to  1,004,661  gallons  of  oil.  Although  the  imports 
during  the  last  ten  years  exhibit  no  decided  decrease,  the  average  price 
during  each  consecutive  year  has  continued  gradually  to  augment :  in 
1844,  sperm  oil  was  worth  63  cents  per  gall.  ;  whale,  34^  ;  and  bone,  35% 
cents  per  Ib.  ;  while  during  the  past  year  it  has  averaged  about  Si. 25  for 
sperm,  85  cents  for  whale,  and  34^  cents  per  Ib.  for  bone. 

Of  late  years,  this  branch  of  commerce  lias  become  somewhat  inter- 
woven with  our  merchant  marine,  owners  deeming  it  to  their  interest  to 
have  the  oil  and  bone  taken  by  their  vessels  discharged  at  Honolulu  or 
other  convenient  port,  and  reshipped  as  freight  on  board  such  merchant- 
men as  receive  it  at  reasonable  rates.  The  result  of  this  system,  when 
fairly  established  in  1851-52,  was  for  speculators  in  San  Francisco 
to  purchase  old  hulks  for  a  nominal  sum  that  had  been  lying  in  that 
port  and  were  considered  almost  useless,  and  after  a  temporary  refit, 
send  them  to  Honolulu  for  a  freight  home,  which  would  yield  them 
more  than  a  hundred  per  cent,  on  their  investment.  This  was  in 
many  instances  prejudicial  to  their  interests — for  some  of  these  vessels 
proving  unseaworthy,  were,  after  a  brief  absence,  compelled  to  put  back, 
discharge  their  cargoes,  and  refit ;  or  upon  survey,  were  sometimes  con- 
demned, as  at  Honolulu  and  Papeete.  It  has  now  become  politic  for  car- 
riers to  offer  none  but  approved  and  substantial  vessels  for  this  purpose, 
and  at  present  it  bids  fair  to  become  a  lucrative  branch  of  commerce  to 
those  who  engage  in  it  :  until  by  over  competition,  as  invariably  happens 
in  this  ocean,  it  relapses  to  a  lower  basis.  These  freights  are  usually 
worth  from  8  to  10  cents  per  gallon  for  oil,  and  a  vessel  of  sufficient  capacity 
to  carry  4,000  bbls.  realizes  something  like  $10,000  by  the  transaction. 

The  sums  annually  disbursed  by  this  fleet  are  large,  and  the  amount 
of  bills  drawn  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  on  owners  during  the  fall  of  the 
year  1852  could  not  fall  far  short  of  $500,000.  The  ports  frequented  are 
chiefly  Honolulu,  Talcahuano,  Paita,  Papeete,  Guam,  Hong  Kong,  and 
sometimes  San  Francisco.  It  may  sound  strange  to  state,  that  the  most 
expensive  port  in  this  ocean  for  a  vessel,  with  respect  to  government 
charges  and  outlay  necessary  for  repairs  or  recruits,  is  an  American, 
while  the  cheapest  is  an  English  one  :  these  are  respectively  San  Fran- 
•  cisco  and  Hong  Kong. 

The  system  of  unwarranted  exactions  upon  whalers  that  visit  many  of 
"the  out-of-the-way  ports  in  this  ocean,  is  detrimental  to  the  interests  of 
those  who  make  them.  An  instance  occurred  recently  at  Raiatea  :  a 
New  London  whaler  visited  that  port  for  supplies,  but,  save  fire-wood, 
there  was  nothing  else  to  be  obtained  ;  during  the  visit,  eleven  men  de- 
serted ;  and  although  a  reward  of  $5.00  was  offered  for  the  apprehension 


American  Whaling  Interests  in  the  Pacific. 


451 


of  each  man,  such  was  the  inefficiency  of  the  government  that  not  one  of 
them  was  recovered.  In  addition  to  paying  $8.00  for  pilotage,  other 
charges  for  harbor  dues,  &c.,  were  preferred,  swelling  the  amount  to  $16 
— in  itself  an  inconsiderable  item,  but  the  frequency  of  such  charges 
during  an  interval  of  three  years  amounts  to  a  sum  worth  noticing. 
Although  the  government  was  destitute  of  the  means  of  enforcing  pay- 
ment, the  amount  was  paid  over,  under  verbal  protest,  to  some  one  on 
the  beach  who  professed  himself  authorized  to  receive  it.  On  leaving  the 
port,  the  master  of  the  vessel  expressed  a  determination  never  to  visit  it 
again,  and  to  do  a.'J  in  his  power  to  prevent  similar  imposition  upon 
others.  When  a  semi-civilized  island,  with  a  provisional  government, 
can  offer  inducements  for  vessels  to  visit  its  harbors,  then,  and  only  then, 
should  it  venture  a  system  of  port  charges,  otherwise  it  drives  commerce 
from  its  doors. 

The  two  principal  islands  of  Micronesia,  Strong's  and  Ascension,  are 
becoming  more  generally  known  since  the  establishment  of  the  Mission 
there  in  1852.  From  the  12th  October,  1852,  to  April  7th,  1853,  56  ves- 
sels touched  at  their  harbors  :  of  these  1  was  an  English  brig,  1  a 
Sydney  trader,  1  a  London  whaler,  2  Sydney  whalers,  2  Bremen  whalers, 
and  the  remainder  American  whalers.  The  following  table  of  exports 
and  imports  of  the  harbor  of  Bonabe,  island  of  Ascension,  copied  from  the 
Polynesian  (Honolulu)  of  November  19th,  1853,  will  be  found  interesting, 
as  exhibiting  the  manner  in  which  trade  is  conducted  among  the  islands 
of  this  ocean,  where  there  is  an  absence  of  a  circulating  medium  : — 

TABLE    OF    THE    EXPORTS    AND    IMPORTS    OF    BONABE, 

For  the  Year  ending  April  1st,  1853. 
1. — EXPORTS. 


1 

o 

,0     . 

1 

s  fe 

:/: 

1 

llr 

E  »  « 

ill 

1 

El 

?  "B. 

• 

.s 

a 
o 

3 

c 

; 

o 

1.2 

II 

fl 

ill 

^J 

ss 

* 

^  r-i  j~ 
o 

I- 

s 

i 

| 

\ 

5' 

e 

1* 

!C 

* 

0 

E"1  .a 

c 

£ 

KITTIE  TRIBE. 

«J 

a 

o 

Average  by  each  whale  ship, 
Total  bv  15  whale  ships  

46 
700 

30 

300 

200 

5 

75 

17 
256 

100 
1.500 

4% 
70 

150 

2,250 

2,000 
30,000 

Total  by  4  other  vessels  
Total  from  Kittle  Tribe  

42 

742 

37 
337 

5 

206 

200 
275 

50 
306 

200 
1,700 

70 

500 
2,750 

30,000 

6 

MATALA.NIM  TRIBE. 

A.verage  by  each  whale  ship 
Total  by  6  whale  ships  
Total  by  2  traders  

46 
276 

20 
120 

80J 

5 
30 
190 

17 

102 
250 

100 
600 

150 
QUO 

2,000 
12,000 

Total  from  Matalanim  Tribe 

276 

120 

80 

150 

352 

600 

10 

900 

12,000 

(i 

TOTAL  

1,018 

457  1  285 

425    658 

2,300 

80 

OT 

3,6501  42,OOo'lS 

20  T 

452  Appendix  IV. 


2  — IMPORTS. 

Muskets — 150  may  have  been  imported  during  the  year,  price  about  20  Ibs. 
tobacco  each.  Sheath-knives,  1  Ib.  tobacco  each.  Powder,  1  Ib.  tobacco  per  Ib. 
Shot.  Calicoes,  common,  2  yds.  for  1  Ib.  tobacco.  Turkey  Red,  3  yards  for  2  Ibs. 
tobacco.  Handkerchiefs,  from  £  to  1  Ib.  each.  Red  Flannel  Shirts.  4  to  5  Ibs. 
tobacco  each.  Red  Flannel.  Red  Yarn.  Beads.  Jron  pots,  at  an  average  of  1£ 
Ib.  per  gallon.  Hatchets  and  Axes.  Tobacco. 

With  all  its  advantages,  it  cannot  be  denied  that  Honolulu  is  an  ex- 
pensive port  for  whalers,  not  so  much  on  account  of  the  port  charges, 
which  are  subjoined,  as  the  incidental  expenses  attending  a  sojourn  of 
any  duration  there.  The  following  is  the  list  of 

PORT  CHARGES,  &c.,  FOR  WHALERS. 

Buoys $2  00 

Health  Certificate 1  00 

Pilotage,  in  and  out,  each  way  (per  foot) 1  00 

Harbor  Master's  fees 3  00 

Clearance 1  00 

Whalers  can  land  goods  to  the  value  of  $200  free  of  duty ;  $1,000 
worth  additional  at  5  per  cent.,  without  being  liable  to  tonnage  dues  ;  but 
if  they  land  more  than  $1,200,  (including  the  $200  free  of  duty,)  they 
are  subject  to  the  same  liabilities  as  merchant  vessels. 

Products  of  the  whale  fishery  transhipped  free,  except  cost  of  entry 
and  permit. 

The  increased  advances  demanded  by  seamen,  and  the  cost  of  obtain- 
ing repairs,  are  at  present  the  principal  cause  of  complaint,  and  the  fol- 
lowing brief  extract  of  a  letter  from  an  extensive  shipping  merchant  in 
one  of  our  Eastern  cities  wrill  express  the  sentiments  of  this  intelligent 
class  of  community  on  the  subject : — 

"  Should  things  continue  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  as  they  have  for  a  year  or 
two  past,  we  shall  be  compelled  to  instruct  our  captains  not  to  visit  them,  unless 
compelled  to  do  so  by  stress  of  weather.  The  high  price  of  recruits,  with  the 
chances  of  losing  their  crews,  and  large  amounts  demanded  as  advances  to  men 
shipped  there,  and  advocated  by  the  consul  and  others,  will  cause  it  to  be  ruinous 
to  the  interests  of  owners,  if  their  vessels  stop  there." 

Whaling  vessels,  on  leaving  home  ports,  are  manned  chiefly  by  raw 
recruits,  though  their  insurance  policies  require  that  a  sufficient  number 
of  able  seamen  be  shipped  on  board  of  each,  otherwise  they  become  in- 
valid. These  recruits  are  sometimes  allured  on  board  by  a  dazzling 
perspective,  but  oftener  they  assume  their  vocation  through  choice,  and 
it  is  to  be  regretted  that  an  enterprise  usually  so  remunerative  to  owners 
offers  little  or  no  pecuniary  inducement  to  those  of  the  forecastle,  who, 
by  their  unwrearied  efforts  abroad,  heap  up  riches  for  their  employers. 


American,  Whaling  Interests  in  the  Pacific.  453 


On.  the  other  hand,  it  will  be  adduced  that  the  trouble  of  initiating  them 
into  the  profession  should  be  considered  an  equivalent  for  their  services, 
and  that  this,  together  with  a  few  dollars  for  liberty  money  advanced  in 
foreign  ports,  is  a  liberal  compensation.  But  the  value  of  their  services  is 
lightly  estimated.  An  intelligent  and  industrious  man  may  in  two  or  three 
"  seasons"  become  as  useful  in  his  calling  as  those  who  have  passed  the 
term  of  their  apprenticeship ;  but  almost  invariably  they  are  shuffled 
off  with  the  hundred  and  ninety-second  share,  or  thereabout,  and  after  an 
absence  of  two  or  three  years,  frequently  return  indebted  to  their  employ- 
ers. Certainly  there  are  instances  of  successful  voyages,  where  the  returns 
have  been  as  remunerating  as  could  be  expected,  to  the  apprentices  ; 
however,  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that  were  more  liberal  inducements 
extended  at  the  outset,  (with  certain  restrictions,)  the  owners  would  profit 
by  it  in  the  end,  for  in  all  probability  their  vessels  would  be  spared  the 
delay  and  expense  attending  the  desertion  and  providing  of  new  seamen, 
for  if  so  disposed,  in  this  ocean  a  deserter  can  pecuniarily  better  his  con- 
dition by  reshipping  on  board  other  vessels  for  increased  wages.  It  fre- 
quently happens  that  through  sickness,  accident,  or  desertion,  these  men 
are  thrown  upon  the  hands  of  our  consuls  in  foreign  ports,  where  hos- 
pitals and  physicians  are,  if  circumstances  permit,  provided  for  them. 
Having  recovered,  they  reship  on  other  vessels,  and  if  whalers,  usually 
by  the  season  ;  thus,  throughout  most  ports  of  the  Pacific,  will  be  found 
a  class  of  half-disciplined  seamen. 

It  is  not  uncommon  to  see  at  such  ports  seamen  lounging  about  and 
indulging  in  the  multiplied  facilities  offered  for  dissipation,  while  many 
of  them  are  ostensibly  invalids  and  reside  in  their  hospitals.  The  num- 
ber of  protections  furnished  during  the  preceding  year  to  American  sea- 
men engaged  in  the  whaling  service  was  2,359,  and  this  may  suggest  an 
idea  of  the  number  that  is  scattered  over  the  Pacific  in  our  numerous 
fleet.  Many  of  these  are  young  recruits,  who,  through  recklessness  or 
novelty,  venture  to  sea  for  the  first  time,  and  with  unsettled  habits,  they 
are  at  once  thrown  into  the  vortex  of  dissipation,  a  foreign  port.  On 
shore,  they  perambulate  the  streets  amid  strange  sights  and  stranger  faces, 
meeting  none  who  possess  with  them  a  sympathy  in  common,  save  cer- 
tain board-and-lodging-house  harpies,  who  blind  them  by  their  assidui- 
ties until  their  every  resource  is  exhausted,  when  they  are  turned  adrift 
to  shift  for  themselves,  or  are  reshipped  by  them  after  having  appropriated 
the  lion's  share  of  their  advance. 

Although  our  merchant  fleet  in  this  ocean  is  manned  by  thousands  of 
American  seamen,  the  present  subject  has  reference  more  especially  to 
our  countrymen  engaged  in  the  occupation  of  whaling,  and  as  their  num- 
ber is  by  no  means  inconsiderable,  it  deserves  the  attention  of  the 


454  Appendix  IV. 


benevolent  at  home  with  reference  to  improving  their  condition.  The 
cause  is  equally  praiseworthy,  and  would  require  but  a  moiety  of  the 
charities  annually  bestowed  upon  Foreign  Missions.  The  first  step 
towards  accomplishing  this  object  would  be  the  permanent  establishment 
of  a  Home  which  should  be  for  the  seamen  of  all  nations,  at  a  port  most 
frequented  by  the  whaling  fleet ;  and  with  this  object  in  view,  no  better  than 
Honolulu  could  be  selected  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  where,  after  the  return 
of  our  vessels  from  the  Northwest  cruising-grounds,  more  than  one  thou- 
sand of  our  seamen  wander  through  the  streets  daily.  Many  of  these, 
who  have  shipped  only  for  the  "  season,"  are  discharged,  and  in  company 
with  those  whose  sojourn  is  transient,  frequent  the  low  haunts  of  dissi- 
pation that  abound  in  that  city,  where  the  fruit  of  their  toil  is  scattered 
for  the  gratifications  of  a  moment. 

Such  an  institution  should  be  ample,  and  conducted  by  those  who  have 
more  the  welfare  of  the  sailor  at  heart  than  the  acquisition  of  his  earn- 
ings, which  should  be  properly  cared  for,  seamen  being  of  all  classes  the 
most  improvident.  Independent  of  the  temporal  advantages  resulting 
from  its  proper  management,  the  moral  benefits  necessarily  conferred 
could  not  be  otherwise  than  gratifying  to  its  founders.  Amid  a  well- 
selected  library  would  be  passed  many  of  the  hours  now  worse  than 
squandered,  and  the  proceeds  of  their  labors,  instead  of  pandering  to 
sensuality,  would  gladden  many  an  honest  hearth  made  desolate  by  the 
absence  of  a  son  or  a  brother.  Had  such  an  institution,  or  its  equivalent, 
existed,  the  disgraceful  occurrences  of  the  fall  of  1852  would  probably  not 
have  been  witnessed  in  Honolulu,  nor  would  Americans  have  had  occa- 
sion to  blush  at  the  conduct  of  their  countrymen.  When  the  "  seasons" 
have  been  favorable,  tire  amounts  paid  out  to  seamen  are  comparatively 
large,  the  greater  portion  of  which  go  to  enrich  the  vendors  of  liquors, 
and,  as  fines,  the  national  treasury.  On  one  occasion,  the  Sheriff  of  Oahu 
removed  from  the  pocket  of  a  drunken  petty  officer,  who  was  staggering 
through  the  streets,  one  thousand  dollars  in  Californian  ingots,  which 
were  afterwards  returned  to  him  when  sober. 

It  has  been  surmised  by  some  that  at  certain  ports  in  this  ocean  a 
mutual  understanding  has  existed  between  consul  and  hospital  physician. 
If  such  be  the  case,  a  trifling  derangement  of  the  system  is  construed  into 
the  incipient  stage  of  some  serious  disorder,  and  half  -Astonished,  half 
pleased  at  the  change,  the  seaman,  despite  the  protestations  of  his  captain, 
is  transferred  from  the  ship  to  the  hospital,  where  he  is  dosed  with  boluses, 
while  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  subsequently  foots  the  exorbitant,  and 
in  many  instances,  useless  charges  of  the  bill.  The  custom  of  employing 
the  subjects  of  foreign  nations  to  officiate  as  American  consuls  is  rarely 
if  ever  satisfactory  to  either  master  or  seaman,  and  it  is  useless  to  expect 


American  Whaling  Interests  in  the  Pacific.  455 

a  manifestation  of  the  same  interest  in  their  affairs  that  would  charac- 
terize the  offices  of  an  American  substitute  occupying  the  same  position  ; 
at  least,  let  judicious  reference  be  had  to  character  or  habits,  so  that  per- 
sonal remissness  may  not  compromise  or  mock  the  dignity  of  the  nation 
represented. 

An  instance  of  this  nature  occurred  less  than  a  year  ago  at  one  of  the 
ports  in  this  ocean,  on  which  occasion  a  foreigner  acting  as  American 
consul,  having  received  a  complaint  from  a  passenger  concerning  alleged 
injuries  received  from  the  captain,  proceeded,  full  of  the  importance  of 
his  mission,  to  the  ship,  at  anchor  in  the  harbor,  and  after  reaching' the 
deck,  he  was  a  spectacle  of  mirth  for  the  crew.  He  wore  the  cocked  hat, 
blue  coat,  buttons  and  epaulettes  ;  in  short,  he  was  in  full  uniform,  with 
one  exception — he  was  barefooted !  Having  inquired  whether  the  captain 
was  on  board,  and  'receiving  an  affirmative  answer,  he  assumed  an  ora- 
torical position,  and  alternately  poising  himself  on  his  toes  and  heels,  to 
give  emphasis  to  his  sentiments,  he  commenced  with  :  "  Sir! — I  have  the 
honor — to  be — the  American  consul."  Such  instances  are  ludicrous  ; 
and  the  trappings  of  rank  or  station  prostituted  in  this  manner,  savor 
more  of  the  Fiji  drummer  than  of  the  insignia  of  a  great  nation. 

Our  system  of  remunerating  consular  services  by  fees,  in  many  in- 
stances works  badly.  While  at  such  ports  as  Honolulu,  Melbourne,  &c., 
moderate  fortunes  are  realized,  the  compensation  received  by  our  agents 
in  less  frequented  situations  is  hardly  deserving  of  consideration.  For 
instance,  while  the  British  consul  at  the  Society  Islands  receives  a  salary 
of  £500  per  annum,  without  a  moiety  of  the  national  business  to  transact 
that  devolves  on  the  American  consul  at  the  Georgian  Islands,  the  per- 
quisites of  the  latter  are  so  insignificant  that  they  are  freely  tendered  as 
remuneration  for  services  to  an  assistant.  Consuls  so  situated  must  ne- 
cessarily engage  in  commercial  pursuits,  and  are  consequently  regarded 
in  an  inferior  light  by  those  who  grant  them  their  exequaturs.  To  this 
paltry  remuneration  may  be  referred  the  unpleasant  recriminations  that 
have  frequently  transpired  between  them  and  those  whose  interests 
they  represent,  owing  to  their  onerous  charges  for  trivial  services,  and  to 
which  they  are  compelled  to  resort  to  glean  a  hasty  harvest  during  the 
brief  existence  of  their  constituent  administration. 

There  is  another  feature  connected  with  this  branch  of  enterprise  that 
is  worthy  of  consideration.  As  insignificant  means  are  sometimes  pre- 
cursors of  great  events,  we  have  evidences  that  the  attainment  of  an  ob- 
ject does  not  necessarily  imply  exclusive  associations,  equivalent  or 
paramount  to  the  principles  it  professes,  but  that  from  obscure  beginnings 
we  may  often  obtain  the  happiest  results.  No  brighter  example  need  be 
instanced  than  that  of  Hawaii,  where  those  who  have  aided  in  framing 


456  Appendix  TV. 


her  laws,  together  with  those  pre-eminent  in  developing  her  agricultural 
resources,  have  brooded  their  ambition  in  a  whaler's  forecastle.  With- 
out resorting  to  individual  instances,  we  cast  a  comprehensive  glance 
over  this  broad  field,  and  discover  that  a  great  proportion  of  the  original 
pioneers  among  the  groups,  pursuing  the  vocations  of  husbandry,  trading, 
and  mechanics,  have  at  some  period  contributed  their  labors  to  this  branch 
of  American  commerce.  Daily  do  our  whalers  display  the  flag  of  their 
Republic  to  civilized  nations  and  savage  tribes,  and  in  connection  with 
American  and  English  merchantmen,  they  are  creating  new  wants  for, 
and  giving  a  new  language  to,  the  natives  of  the  Pacific  Isles.  Though, 
as  a  general  rule,  the  commanders  of  this  fleet  are  skilful  and  intelligent 
men,  they  do  not,  except  in  a  few  instances,  possess  those  scientific  ac- 
quirements for  observation  which  would  enable  them  to  profit  by  the 
numerous  opportunities  afforded  for  the  investigation  of  nautical  phenom- 
ena. An  uniform  system  of  hydrographic  or  meteorologic  observations 
by  them  for  one  year  would  fill  volumes,  and  comprehensive  books,  care- 
fully prepared,  for  the  latter  purpose,  are  furnished  them  by  Lieut.  Maury, 
of  the  Observatory  at  Washington. 


I  cannot  close  this  subject  without  expressing  a  sense  of  obligation  for 
the  uniform  courtesy  and  attention  experienced  from  -those  masters  of 
whalers  whom  I  have  occasionally  met  during  the  last  six  years.  It  is 
sincerely  hoped  that  nothing  that  has  been  written  will  be  construed  to 
the  disparagement  of  themselves  or  their  profession,  for  no  unprejudiced 
observer  can  witness  their  efforts  abroad  without  awarding  the  praise 
their  energy  and  perseverance  merit.  To  one  and  all,  I  return  my 
warmest  thanks  for  their  attention,  humbly  offering  my  best  wishes  for 
their  continued  prosperity. 


